From van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be Sun Jan 1 05:03:50 2017 From: van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be (Marcel Van Mulders) Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2017 13:03:50 +0100 Subject: [Fot] TR6 race engine with 45DCOE triple Webers References: <030955FE0181402BAC46C83FCB6C7324@GebruikerPC> <02AF07B3882A4ECEB44539BC6543DF22@TER2> Plugging the balance pipes (1/2" diameter and between every inlet tract of the manifold) did solve the problem : at WOT and 5000 rpm the AFR went down from some 16 with open balance tubes to 10.2 with plugged tubes, both with 180 main jets wich have now prooved to be too big. The cold engine does start easily know. With the open balance pipes, I had to crank the engine a lot : the engine was running a second and stopped. (accelerator pump). Probably every single cylinder did suck mixture from the other inlet tracts too, via the balance pipes, thus weakening the signal at its own Weber tract? Are we in 2017 now? Marcel _____ Van: Greg Solow [mailto:Gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com] Verzonden: zaterdag 31 december 2016 01:48 Aan: Van Mulders Marcel; fot at autox.team.net Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] TR6 race engine with 45DCOE triple Webers The F-16 emulsion tube are very lean throughout the rev range. try either f-2 or f-11 emulsion tubes. begin with 145 main jets, and 165 air correction jets. the larger the air corrector, the leaner the mixture. I think that the pump jets are to large. Try 35 pump jets and pump inlet valves with a 70 bleed hole. The pump jets acts as part of the "high speed enrichment system" but you need the bleed or else the pump squirts in to much gas and can make the car bog or resitate coming out of corners. The idle jets are to large the the cylinder size. Try 45 f-8 or 40 f-6 idle jets. you may be able to go down to a 40 f-6 idle jet. This will help keep the engine from fouling plugs around the pits. Part throttle mixuture reading do not mean much to me. Most of my experience has been WOT on the dyno where you want a "brake specific fuel consumption" figure of around .50 lbs of fuel per horsepower per hour. Part throttle operation has to do withj "drivability" and not fouling plugs. You would generally want the engine to run as lean at part throttle as it can run without constant backfiring in the intake manifold. Make sure you have spark plugs in the engine that are cold enough to work with the compression ratio of the engine. An engine with 12.1:1 will need a Campion Racing plug with a heat range number like C 61YC. On the dyno you might start with an even colder plug like C59YC. just to make extra sure that you stay away from detonation. After getting things more dialed in, you can probably go to the warmer plug. Good Luck, Greg Solow ----- Original Message ----- To: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, December 29, 2016 1:45 PM Subject: [Fot] TR6 race engine with 45DCOE triple Webers The engine for a friend's TR6 racecar is finished at last and it has run a couple of times now. I have a problem with the mixture : the air correction jets are 155, I started with 140 main jets but the mixture was much too lean : AFR was 14 at idle and 17 at 5000 rpm. Even with 180 main jets, the AFR is still 15 at 4000 - 5000 rpm. The engine is 2720 cc and 12.6 volumetric CR. The Webers are secondhand, 45DCOE type 152 and they look as new The venturis are 36mm, emulsion tubes are F16, idle jets 55F8 and aux. venturis are 4.5. Pump jets are 40 without a bleed hole. The plugs have a correct colour, no sooting, no signs of overheating. The engine is on a dyno but I didn't risk so far to really load the engine, so the plugs doesn't tell much. The lambda sensor is a wide Bosch sensor, about new and with an Innovate controller. I suppose 180 main jets are already too big. I can't find any air leaks and the spark plugs have all the same colour. Is it possible that 36mm chokes are too big? Any idea's why the mixture can be too lean, even with 180 main jets? Should I suspect the lambda sensor/Innovate controller? What venturis should I start with? Another question : I have no experience about the range of total ignition advance a full race TR6 engine does need. Marcel _____ _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com Sun Jan 1 07:24:18 2017 From: duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com (Duncan Charlton) Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2017 08:24:18 -0600 Subject: [Fot] TR6 race engine with 45DCOE triple Webers References: <030955FE0181402BAC46C83FCB6C7324@GebruikerPC> <02AF07B3882A4ECEB44539BC6543DF22@TER2> <64CA343035D14F8E9A0D3123ADC1A7FC@GebruikerPC> What a curious problem. Were your manifolds manufactured for use with Weber DCOEs or were they adapted from some other application? Duncan Charlton Elgin, Texas USA > On Jan 1, 2017, at 6:03 AM, Marcel Van Mulders via Fot wrote: > > Plugging the balance pipes (1/2" diameter and between every inlet tract of the manifold) did solve the problem : at WOT and 5000 rpm the AFR went down from some 16 with open balance tubes to 10.2 with plugged tubes, both with 180 main jets wich have now prooved to be too big. The cold engine does start easily know. With the open balance pipes, I had to crank the engine a lot : the engine was running a second and stopped. (accelerator pump). Probably every single cylinder did suck mixture from the other inlet tracts too, via the balance pipes, thus weakening the signal at its own Weber tract? > Are we in 2017 now? > Marcel > > Van: Greg Solow [mailto:Gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com] > Verzonden: zaterdag 31 december 2016 01:48 > Aan: Van Mulders Marcel; fot at autox.team.net > Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] TR6 race engine with 45DCOE triple Webers > > The F-16 emulsion tube are very lean throughout the rev range. try either f-2 or f-11 emulsion tubes. begin with 145 main jets, and 165 air correction jets. the larger the air corrector, the leaner the mixture. I think that the pump jets are to large. Try 35 pump jets and pump inlet valves with a 70 bleed hole. The pump jets acts as part of the "high speed enrichment system" but you need the bleed or else the pump squirts in to much gas and can make the car bog or resitate coming out of corners. The idle jets are to large the the cylinder size. Try 45 f-8 or 40 f-6 idle jets. you may be able to go down to a 40 f-6 idle jet. This will help keep the engine from fouling plugs around the pits. > Part throttle mixuture reading do not mean much to me. Most of my experience has been WOT on the dyno where you want a "brake specific fuel consumption" figure of around .50 lbs of fuel per horsepower per hour. Part throttle operation has to do withj "drivability" and not fouling plugs. You would generally want the engine to run as lean at part throttle as it can run without constant backfiring in the intake manifold. > Make sure you have spark plugs in the engine that are cold enough to work with the compression ratio of the engine. An engine with 12.1:1 will need a Campion Racing plug with a heat range number like C 61YC. On the dyno you might start with an even colder plug like C59YC. just to make extra sure that you stay away from detonation. After getting things more dialed in, you can probably go to the warmer plug. > Good Luck, > Greg Solow >> ----- Original Message ----- >> Sent: Thursday, December 29, 2016 1:45 PM >> Subject: [Fot] TR6 race engine with 45DCOE triple Webers >> >> The engine for a friend's TR6 racecar is finished at last and it has run a couple of times now. >> I have a problem with the mixture : the air correction jets are 155, I started with 140 main jets but the mixture was much too lean : AFR was 14 at idle and 17 at 5000 rpm. Even with 180 main jets, the AFR is still 15 at 4000 - 5000 rpm. The engine is 2720 cc and 12.6 volumetric CR. >> The Webers are secondhand, 45DCOE type 152 and they look as new >> The venturis are 36mm, emulsion tubes are F16, idle jets 55F8 and aux. venturis are 4.5. Pump jets are 40 without a bleed hole. The plugs have a correct colour, no sooting, no signs of overheating. The engine is on a dyno but I didn't risk so far to really load the engine, so the plugs doesn't tell much. The lambda sensor is a wide Bosch sensor, about new and with an Innovate controller. I suppose 180 main jets are already too big. I can't find any air leaks and the spark plugs have all the same colour. Is it possible that 36mm chokes are too big? Any idea's why the mixture can be too lean, even with 180 main jets? Should I suspect the lambda sensor/Innovate controller? What venturis should I start with? >> Another question : I have no experience about the range of total ignition advance a full race TR6 engine does need. >> Marcel >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com >> >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be Sun Jan 1 09:43:06 2017 From: van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be (Marcel Van Mulders) Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2017 17:43:06 +0100 Subject: [Fot] TR6 race engine with 45DCOE triple Webers References: <030955FE0181402BAC46C83FCB6C7324@GebruikerPC> <02AF07B3882A4ECEB44539BC6543DF22@TER2> <64CA343035D14F8E9A0D3123ADC1A7FC@GebruikerPC> I don't know where the inlet manifold is coming from. The owner of the engine is a friend of mine, he bought the manifold at some Triumph trade exhibition. The manifacturer is CANNON and there was a hose (to brake servo?) connected to one of the balance pipes(I closed that take off, of course). I'd like to know what carburettors were on it. The Webers are a direct fit, no adaptions are/were made. The 45 DCOE Webers with 36mm chokes didn't respond a bit to changing the main jets or tuning the idle screws. With the idle screws as far out as possible, the AFR was about right from idle to 3500 rpm without load on the engine. It must have been DCOE Webers (or Dellorto's) with small venturis, i.e. 30mm, to get a stronger signal in the venturis. But does such an installation make sense? Marcel _____ Van: Duncan Charlton [mailto:duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com] Verzonden: zondag 1 januari 2017 15:24 Aan: Marcel Van Mulders CC: Greg Solow; fot at autox.team.net Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] TR6 race engine with 45DCOE triple Webers What a curious problem. Were your manifolds manufactured for use with Weber DCOEs or were they adapted from some other application? Duncan Charlton Elgin, Texas USA On Jan 1, 2017, at 6:03 AM, Marcel Van Mulders via Fot wrote: Plugging the balance pipes (1/2" diameter and between every inlet tract of the manifold) did solve the problem : at WOT and 5000 rpm the AFR went down from some 16 with open balance tubes to 10.2 with plugged tubes, both with 180 main jets wich have now prooved to be too big. The cold engine does start easily know. With the open balance pipes, I had to crank the engine a lot : the engine was running a second and stopped. (accelerator pump). Probably every single cylinder did suck mixture from the other inlet tracts too, via the balance pipes, thus weakening the signal at its own Weber tract? Are we in 2017 now? Marcel _____ Van: Greg Solow [mailto:Gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com] Verzonden: zaterdag 31 december 2016 01:48 Aan: Van Mulders Marcel; fot at autox.team.net Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] TR6 race engine with 45DCOE triple Webers The F-16 emulsion tube are very lean throughout the rev range. try either f-2 or f-11 emulsion tubes. begin with 145 main jets, and 165 air correction jets. the larger the air corrector, the leaner the mixture. I think that the pump jets are to large. Try 35 pump jets and pump inlet valves with a 70 bleed hole. The pump jets acts as part of the "high speed enrichment system" but you need the bleed or else the pump squirts in to much gas and can make the car bog or resitate coming out of corners. The idle jets are to large the the cylinder size. Try 45 f-8 or 40 f-6 idle jets. you may be able to go down to a 40 f-6 idle jet. This will help keep the engine from fouling plugs around the pits. Part throttle mixuture reading do not mean much to me. Most of my experience has been WOT on the dyno where you want a "brake specific fuel consumption" figure of around .50 lbs of fuel per horsepower per hour. Part throttle operation has to do withj "drivability" and not fouling plugs. You would generally want the engine to run as lean at part throttle as it can run without constant backfiring in the intake manifold. Make sure you have spark plugs in the engine that are cold enough to work with the compression ratio of the engine. An engine with 12.1:1 will need a Campion Racing plug with a heat range number like C 61YC. On the dyno you might start with an even colder plug like C59YC. just to make extra sure that you stay away from detonation. After getting things more dialed in, you can probably go to the warmer plug. Good Luck, Greg Solow ----- Original Message ----- To: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, December 29, 2016 1:45 PM Subject: [Fot] TR6 race engine with 45DCOE triple Webers The engine for a friend's TR6 racecar is finished at last and it has run a couple of times now. I have a problem with the mixture : the air correction jets are 155, I started with 140 main jets but the mixture was much too lean : AFR was 14 at idle and 17 at 5000 rpm. Even with 180 main jets, the AFR is still 15 at 4000 - 5000 rpm. The engine is 2720 cc and 12.6 volumetric CR. The Webers are secondhand, 45DCOE type 152 and they look as new The venturis are 36mm, emulsion tubes are F16, idle jets 55F8 and aux. venturis are 4.5. Pump jets are 40 without a bleed hole. The plugs have a correct colour, no sooting, no signs of overheating. The engine is on a dyno but I didn't risk so far to really load the engine, so the plugs doesn't tell much. The lambda sensor is a wide Bosch sensor, about new and with an Innovate controller. I suppose 180 main jets are already too big. I can't find any air leaks and the spark plugs have all the same colour. Is it possible that 36mm chokes are too big? Any idea's why the mixture can be too lean, even with 180 main jets? Should I suspect the lambda sensor/Innovate controller? What venturis should I start with? Another question : I have no experience about the range of total ignition advance a full race TR6 engine does need. Marcel _____ _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be Sun Jan 1 12:58:01 2017 From: van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be (Marcel Van Mulders) Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2017 20:58:01 +0100 Subject: [Fot] TR6 race engine with 45DCOE triple Webers References: <030955FE0181402BAC46C83FCB6C7324@GebruikerPC> <02AF07B3882A4ECEB44539BC6543DF22@TER2> <64CA343035D14F8E9A0D3123ADC1A7FC@GebruikerPC> This is a picture of the manifold, sold by Wishbone Classics and others. I also found a picture of this manifold with 3 DCOE 40 Webers for a street TR6. Perhaps with small venturis for a stronger metering signal? 45 DCOE Webers with 36mm venturis definitely only work on this manifold when the balance pipes are closed. Marcel _____ Van: Duncan Charlton [mailto:duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com] Verzonden: zondag 1 januari 2017 15:24 Aan: Marcel Van Mulders CC: Greg Solow; fot at autox.team.net Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] TR6 race engine with 45DCOE triple Webers What a curious problem. Were your manifolds manufactured for use with Weber DCOEs or were they adapted from some other application? Duncan Charlton Elgin, Texas USA On Jan 1, 2017, at 6:03 AM, Marcel Van Mulders via Fot wrote: Plugging the balance pipes (1/2" diameter and between every inlet tract of the manifold) did solve the problem : at WOT and 5000 rpm the AFR went down from some 16 with open balance tubes to 10.2 with plugged tubes, both with 180 main jets wich have now prooved to be too big. The cold engine does start easily know. With the open balance pipes, I had to crank the engine a lot : the engine was running a second and stopped. (accelerator pump). Probably every single cylinder did suck mixture from the other inlet tracts too, via the balance pipes, thus weakening the signal at its own Weber tract? Are we in 2017 now? Marcel _____ Van: Greg Solow [mailto:Gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com] Verzonden: zaterdag 31 december 2016 01:48 Aan: Van Mulders Marcel; fot at autox.team.net Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] TR6 race engine with 45DCOE triple Webers The F-16 emulsion tube are very lean throughout the rev range. try either f-2 or f-11 emulsion tubes. begin with 145 main jets, and 165 air correction jets. the larger the air corrector, the leaner the mixture. I think that the pump jets are to large. Try 35 pump jets and pump inlet valves with a 70 bleed hole. The pump jets acts as part of the "high speed enrichment system" but you need the bleed or else the pump squirts in to much gas and can make the car bog or resitate coming out of corners. The idle jets are to large the the cylinder size. Try 45 f-8 or 40 f-6 idle jets. you may be able to go down to a 40 f-6 idle jet. This will help keep the engine from fouling plugs around the pits. Part throttle mixuture reading do not mean much to me. Most of my experience has been WOT on the dyno where you want a "brake specific fuel consumption" figure of around .50 lbs of fuel per horsepower per hour. Part throttle operation has to do withj "drivability" and not fouling plugs. You would generally want the engine to run as lean at part throttle as it can run without constant backfiring in the intake manifold. Make sure you have spark plugs in the engine that are cold enough to work with the compression ratio of the engine. An engine with 12.1:1 will need a Campion Racing plug with a heat range number like C 61YC. On the dyno you might start with an even colder plug like C59YC. just to make extra sure that you stay away from detonation. After getting things more dialed in, you can probably go to the warmer plug. Good Luck, Greg Solow ----- Original Message ----- To: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, December 29, 2016 1:45 PM Subject: [Fot] TR6 race engine with 45DCOE triple Webers The engine for a friend's TR6 racecar is finished at last and it has run a couple of times now. I have a problem with the mixture : the air correction jets are 155, I started with 140 main jets but the mixture was much too lean : AFR was 14 at idle and 17 at 5000 rpm. Even with 180 main jets, the AFR is still 15 at 4000 - 5000 rpm. The engine is 2720 cc and 12.6 volumetric CR. The Webers are secondhand, 45DCOE type 152 and they look as new The venturis are 36mm, emulsion tubes are F16, idle jets 55F8 and aux. venturis are 4.5. Pump jets are 40 without a bleed hole. The plugs have a correct colour, no sooting, no signs of overheating. The engine is on a dyno but I didn't risk so far to really load the engine, so the plugs doesn't tell much. The lambda sensor is a wide Bosch sensor, about new and with an Innovate controller. I suppose 180 main jets are already too big. I can't find any air leaks and the spark plugs have all the same colour. Is it possible that 36mm chokes are too big? Any idea's why the mixture can be too lean, even with 180 main jets? Should I suspect the lambda sensor/Innovate controller? What venturis should I start with? Another question : I have no experience about the range of total ignition advance a full race TR6 engine does need. Marcel _____ _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tony at tonydrews.com Mon Jan 2 11:59:51 2017 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Mon, 02 Jan 2017 12:59:51 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Drilling additional oiling holes in main bearings ? References: <014b01d26395$e4afd050$ae0f70f0$@comcast.net> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From robertten1 at aol.com Mon Jan 2 19:15:54 2017 From: robertten1 at aol.com (robertten1 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2017 21:15:54 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Starter HappyNew Year !! Well I wrangled the starter out of the car today and bench tested it. Itseems to function properly but curiosity got me to grab some tools and take apeek inside. I could not find anything broken or worn out and connectionsappear tight. Cleaned it up and put it back together with a little threadlocker on the screws, and replaced the zip tie securing the pig-tail. Still works. Somy dilemma is do I reinstall it or purchase one of Ted's units ? And, whydid it fail to work while in the car, after checking, tightening allconnections and even running a jumper wire to it?? Willkeep all informed, BobT '64Spit GT autocrosser -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From Gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com Mon Jan 2 23:12:05 2017 From: Gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com (Gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com) Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2017 22:12:05 -0800 Subject: [Fot] TR6 race engine with 45DCOE triple Webers Marcel, The balance tubes were probably there to try and equalize the vacuum pluses to the brake vacuum booster. connecting the throats with a 1/16" tube is sometimes done to run vacuum advance on the street for better fuel economy. As you have already found, in a race application, Weber carbs are designed to be used as one independent throat or choke for each cylinder and they should not be connected together in any way. The cam ini this engine is what I would call a VERY radical design in terms of total duration. I would expect the engine to feel like it "comes on the cam" at nearly 5,000 rpm and will have very little torque at much below 4500 rpm. The power band should extend well beyond 7,000 RPM. The problem is likely to be keeping the engine together in the high and RPM range. Your friend might be better off with a cam having duration closer to the 298 to 302 degree range. Greg Solow Greg Solow The Engine Room Sports Car Specialists Santa Cruz, CA 95060 831 429-1800 ------- Original Message ------- >From : Marcel Van Mulders[mailto:van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be] Sent : 12/31/2016 6:22:38 AM To : Gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com Cc : fot at autox.team.net Subject : RE: [Fot] TR6 race engine with 45DCOE triple Webers Maybe I have to add something about the inlet manifold : it has a 1/2" diameter balance pipe connecting the six inlet tracts : can this lean out the mixture, regarding the 320? (at 0.016") camshaft? At 0.050" lift, it is 268?. Marcel Van: Greg Solow [mailto:Gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com] Verzonden: zaterdag 31 december 2016 01:48 Aan: Van Mulders Marcel; fot at autox.team.net Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] TR6 race engine with 45DCOE triple Webers The F-16 emulsion tube are very lean throughout the rev range. try either f-2 or f-11 emulsion tubes. begin with 145 main jets, and 165 air correction jets. the larger the air corrector, the leaner the mixture. I think that the pump jets are to large. Try 35 pump jets and pump inlet valves with a 70 bleed hole. The pump jets acts as part of the "high speed enrichment system" but you need the bleed or else the pump squirts in to much gas and can make the car bog or resitate coming out of corners. The idle jets are to large the the cylinder size. Try 45 f-8 or 40 f-6 idle jets. you may be able to go down to a 40 f-6 idle jet. This will help keep the engine from fouling plugs around the pits. Part throttle mixuture reading do not mean much to me. Most of my experience has been WOT on the dyno where you want a "brake specific fuel consumption" figure of around .50 lbs of fuel per horsepower per hour. Part throttle operation has to do withj "drivability" and not fouling plugs. You would generally want the engine to run as lean at part throttle as it can run without constant backfiring in the intake manifold. Make sure you have spark plugs in the engine that are cold enough to work with the compression ratio of the engine. An engine with 12.1:1 will need a Campion Racing plug with a heat range number like C 61YC. On the dyno you might start with an even colder plug like C59YC. just to make extra sure that you stay away from detonation. After getting things more dialed in, you can probably go to the warmer plug. Good Luck, Greg Solow ----- Original Message ----- From: Van Mulders Marcel via Fot To: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, December 29, 2016 1:45 PM Subject: [Fot] TR6 race engine with 45DCOE triple Webers The engine for a friend's TR6 racecar is finished at last and it has run a couple of times now. I have a problem with the mixture : the air correction jets are 155, I started with 140 main jets but the mixture was much too lean : AFR was 14 at idle and 17 at 5000 rpm. Even with 180 main jets, the AFR is still 15 at 4000 - 5000 rpm. The engine is 2720 cc and 12.6 volumetric CR. The Webers are secondhand, 45DCOE type 152 and they look as new The venturis are 36mm, emulsion tubes are F16, idle jets 55F8 and aux. venturis are 4.5. Pump jets are 40 without a bleed hole. The plugs have a correct colour, no sooting, no signs of overheating. The engine is on a dyno but I didn't risk so far to really load the engine, so the plugs doesn't tell much. The lambda sensor is a wide Bosch sensor, about new and with an Innovate controller. I suppose 180 main jets are already too big. I can't find any air leaks and the spark plugs have all the same colour. Is it possible that 36mm chokes are too big? Any idea's why the mixture can be too lean, even with 180 main jets? Should I suspect the lambda sensor/Innovate controller? What venturis should I start with? Another question : I have no experience about the range of total ignition advance a full race TR6 engine does need. Marcel _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com From paulricco at att.net Tue Jan 3 07:19:44 2017 From: paulricco at att.net (Paul Ricco) Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2017 08:19:44 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Starter References: <159621c87bb-5292-209bb@webprd-m106.mail.aol.com> How well is your engine grounded to your battery? > On Jan 2, 2017, at 8:15 PM, Bob Totten via Fot wrote: > > Happy New Year !! > > Well I wrangled the starter out of the car today and bench tested it. It seems to function properly but curiosity got me to grab some tools and take a peek inside. I could not find anything broken or worn out and connections appear tight. Cleaned it up and put it back together with a little thread locker on the screws, and replaced the zip tie securing the pig-tail. Still works. > So my dilemma is do I reinstall it or purchase one of Ted's units ? And, why did it fail to work while in the car, after checking, tightening all connections and even running a jumper wire to it?? > > Will keep all informed, > Bob T > > '64 Spit GT autocrosser > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/paulricco at att.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fasttrs at yahoo.com Thu Jan 5 13:17:04 2017 From: fasttrs at yahoo.com (Mike Munson) Date: Thu, 5 Jan 2017 14:17:04 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Larry Young Happy New Year to the FOT! Anybody know how to get in touch with Larry? I have emailed several times this week. He is still in business isn't he? Mike Munson #28 EP TR6 02 ZO6 From jhasty at mhc-law.com Fri Jan 6 08:32:45 2017 From: jhasty at mhc-law.com (John Hasty) Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2017 15:32:45 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Chimney Rock Hill Climb Tried to send the entire email with this attachment and It didn't go through; So try this....great film of a historic event from the past...(https:youtu.be/_e7Uvp_IDWA) John H. Hasty | MULLEN HOLLAND & COOPER P.A. 301 South York Street (zip: 28052) P.O. Box 488 Gastonia, NC 28053-0488 Telephone: 704.864.6751 | Facsimile: 704.861.8394 CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This electronic mail transmission has been sent by a law firm on a legal matter. It may contain information that is confidential, privileged, proprietary, or otherwise legally exempt from disclosure. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that you are not authorized to read, print, retain, copy or disseminate this message, any part of it, or any attachments. If you have received this message in error, please delete this message and any attachments from your system without reading the content and notify the sender immediately of the inadvertent transmission. There is no intent on the part of the sender to waive any privilege, including the attorney-client privilege, that may attach to this communication. Thank you for your cooperation. 11 U.S.C. 528(a)(4) NOTICE. We are a debt relief agency. We help people file for bankruptcy relief under the federal Bankruptcy Code. CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This electronic mail transmission has been sent by a law firm on a legal matter. It may contain information that is confidential, privileged, proprietary, or otherwise legally exempt from disclosure. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that you are not authorized to read, print, retain, copy or disseminate this message, any part of it, or any attachments. If you have received this message in error, please delete this message and any attachments from your system without reading the content and notify the sender immediately of the inadvertent transmission. There is no intent on the part of the sender to waive any privilege, including the attorney-client privilege, that may attach to this communication. Thank you for your cooperation. 11 U.S.C. 528(a)(4) NOTICE. We are a debt relief agency. We help people file for bankruptcy relief under the federal Bankruptcy Code. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rjl at gt-classics.com Fri Jan 6 11:51:17 2017 From: rjl at gt-classics.com (=?utf-8?b?Ui4gSm9obiBMeWU=?=) Date: Fri, 06 Jan 2017 13:51:17 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Chimney Rock Hill Climb References: Wow, that's a cool piece of history - "the Motorized Mountain Climb" ? John On Fri, 6 Jan 2017 15:32:45 +0000, John Hasty via Fot wrote: Tried to send the entire email with this attachment and It didn?t go through; So try this?.great film of a historic event from the past?(https:youtu.be/_e7Uvp_IDWA) ? ? John H. Hasty | MULLEN HOLLAND & COOPER P.A. 301 South York Street? (zip: 28052) P.O. Box 488 Gastonia, NC 28053-0488 Telephone: 704.864.6751 | Facsimile: 704.861.8394 jhasty at mhc-law.com | www.mhc-law.com ? ? ? CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This electronic mail transmission has been ? sent by a law firm on a legal matter. It may contain information that ? is confidential, privileged, proprietary, or otherwise legally exempt ? from disclosure. If you are not the intended recipient, you are ? hereby notified that you are not authorized to read, print, retain, ? copy or disseminate this message, any part of it, or any attachments. ? If you have received this message in error, please delete this ? message and any attachments from your system without reading the ? content and notify the sender immediately of the inadvertent ? transmission. There is no intent on the part of the sender to waive ? any privilege, including the attorney-client privilege, that may ? attach to this communication. ? Thank you for your cooperation. ? ? ? 11 U.S.C. 528(a)(4) NOTICE. We are a debt relief agency. We help people file for bankruptcy relief under the federal Bankruptcy Code. ? ? ? CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This electronic mail transmission has been sent by a law firm on a legal matter. It may contain information that is confidential, privileged, proprietary, or otherwise legally exempt from disclosure. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that you are not authorized to read, print, retain, copy or disseminate this message, any part of it, or any attachments. If you have received this message in error, please delete this message and any attachments from your system without reading the content and notify the sender immediately of the inadvertent transmission. There is no intent on the part of the sender to waive any privilege, including the attorney-client privilege, that may attach to this communication. Thank you for your cooperation. 11 U.S.C. 528(a)(4) NOTICE. We are a debt relief agency. We help people file for bankruptcy relief under the federal Bankruptcy Code. ------------------------- _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rjl at gt-classics.com -- Thanks, John rjl at gt-classics.com ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kenandtweety at yahoo.com Fri Jan 6 14:05:41 2017 From: kenandtweety at yahoo.com (Ken Suhre) Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2017 21:05:41 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Chimney Rock Hill Climb References: I wasn't in that video from 1995 but I was fortunate enough to garner an entry and run it, the last time it was allowed to take place. Unfortunately a shower had dampened the road enough that full bore driving wasn't prudent when I made my timed run. It sure was a blast though. Ken Suhre From: John Hasty via Fot To: FOT Sent: Friday, January 6, 2017 9:32 AM Subject: [Fot] Chimney Rock Hill Climb Tried to send the entire email with this attachment and It didn?t go through; So try this?.great film of a historic event from the past?(https:youtu.be/_e7Uvp_IDWA) ? John H. Hasty| MULLEN HOLLAND & COOPER P.A. 301 South York Street? (zip: 28052) P.O. Box 488 Gastonia, NC 28053-0488 Telephone: 704.864.6751 | Facsimile: 704.861.8394 jhasty at mhc-law.com |www.mhc-law.com ? CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This electronic mail transmission has been sent by a law firm on a legal matter. It may contain information that is confidential, privileged, proprietary, or otherwise legally exempt from disclosure. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that you are not authorized to read, print, retain, copy or disseminate this message, any part of it, or any attachments. If you have received this message in error, please delete this message and any attachments from your system without reading the content and notify the sender immediately of the inadvertent transmission. There is no intent on the part of the sender to waive any privilege, including the attorney-client privilege, that may attach to this communication. Thank you for your cooperation. ? 11 U.S.C. 528(a)(4) NOTICE. We are a debt relief agency. We help people file for bankruptcy relief under the federal Bankruptcy Code. ? ? CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This electronic mail transmission has been sent by a law firm on a legal matter. It may contain information that is confidential, privileged, proprietary, or otherwise legally exempt from disclosure. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that you are not authorized to read, print, retain, copy or disseminate this message, any part of it, or any attachments. If you have received this message in error, please delete this message and any attachments from your system without reading the content and notify the sender immediately of the inadvertent transmission. There is no intent on the part of the sender to waive any privilege, including the attorney-client privilege, that may attach to this communication. Thank you for your cooperation. 11 U.S.C. 528(a)(4) NOTICE. We are a debt relief agency. We help people file for bankruptcy relief under the federal Bankruptcy Code. _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From apackard68 at att.net Sat Jan 7 19:05:32 2017 From: apackard68 at att.net (Andrew Packard) Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2017 18:05:32 -0800 Subject: [Fot] TR4 Lemons race car project restarting Hello from Bay Area: We have finally restarted our TR4 24 hours of Lemons race car project. Initially we were going to use a rotary drive train from an RX7, but have since abandoned that and returned to a Triumph drive train. Thanks to Jeff Durant, we now have a GT6+ engine. We have a 4 speed TR6 tranny to start, but after a test fitting on the GT6+ engine it's a close but not quite a fit. The main concern is that the starter mounting area does not match up. What are the options for this combo? Do we need to use TR6 flywheel and rear engine plate to make this pairing work? Have other used this? What alterations/combos are required to make this work? Second question: I do not see two row timing chain and sprockets for sale for the GT6+. Are the TR250/TR6 components compatible? Thanks for the support of the group as we work through our issues to get a 100% Triumph powered TR4 on the track! Andy Packard From jsukey at gmail.com Sun Jan 8 06:08:10 2017 From: jsukey at gmail.com (Jason Sukey) Date: Sun, 8 Jan 2017 08:08:10 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR4 Lemons race car project restarting References: <0697AD95-E87C-4BC4-BD02-9AE9B30D4335@att.net> Hi Andy, I ran a TR gearbox in my GT6 street car for quite a few years. The gear ratios aren't as sweet as the GT6 box, but it's a nice stout piece. The TR6 rear plate is what you need. I'd stick with the GT6 flywheel though, it's lighter than the TR flywheel. They use the same pressure plate, so no worries, just use a TR6 clutch disc. You will need to make a custom pilot bushing. Jason Sukey On Jan 8, 2017 12:18 AM, "Andrew Packard via Fot" wrote: Hello from Bay Area: We have finally restarted our TR4 24 hours of Lemons race car project. Initially we were going to use a rotary drive train from an RX7, but have since abandoned that and returned to a Triumph drive train. Thanks to Jeff Durant, we now have a GT6+ engine. We have a 4 speed TR6 tranny to start, but after a test fitting on the GT6+ engine it's a close but not quite a fit. The main concern is that the starter mounting area does not match up. What are the options for this combo? Do we need to use TR6 flywheel and rear engine plate to make this pairing work? Have other used this? What alterations/combos are required to make this work? Second question: I do not see two row timing chain and sprockets for sale for the GT6+. Are the TR250/TR6 components compatible? Thanks for the support of the group as we work through our issues to get a 100% Triumph powered TR4 on the track! Andy Packard _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive options/fot/jsukey at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sjanzen at me.com Sun Jan 8 07:20:18 2017 From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen) Date: Sun, 8 Jan 2017 09:20:18 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR4 Lemons race car project restarting References: <0697AD95-E87C-4BC4-BD02-9AE9B30D4335@att.net> I also run a Tr4/6 box in my GT6. As Andy says, you need the TR6 engine plate, and probably an extended pilot bushing (mine extends out to the face of the GT6 flywheel). Clutch splines are different so you may need to use a Tr4/6/7 clutch disk, or have one made. Though it?s expensive, the gear ratio issue can be addressed with a Moss Europe close ratio set, which greatly raises 1 and 2, three slightly and leaves 4 unchanged. TR6 slave cylinders mount forward/below, GT6 rearward/above - not sure how it will fit in your car. Modifications are needed to the shifter fork and shaft to accept the tapered bolt from the reverse direction for the GT6 configuration, and a new bracket to hold the slave cylinder. The TR6 box is bullet-proof compared to the GT6 box - do not consider going that direction. Timing chain/gear - I think they are interchangeable - look on the Wishbone Classics website or call Scott Harper at Team Triumph or any other supplier. I assume you are starting with the later GT6 engine - not the early narrow port engine? GT6+ should be the later/better one. On Jan 8, 2017, at 8:08 AM, Jason Sukey via Fot wrote: Hi Andy, I ran a TR gearbox in my GT6 street car for quite a few years. The gear ratios aren't as sweet as the GT6 box, but it's a nice stout piece. The TR6 rear plate is what you need. I'd stick with the GT6 flywheel though, it's lighter than the TR flywheel. They use the same pressure plate, so no worries, just use a TR6 clutch disc. You will need to make a custom pilot bushing. Jason Sukey Hello from Bay Area: We have finally restarted our TR4 24 hours of Lemons race car project. Initially we were going to use a rotary drive train from an RX7, but have since abandoned that and returned to a Triumph drive train. Thanks to Jeff Durant, we now have a GT6+ engine. We have a 4 speed TR6 tranny to start, but after a test fitting on the GT6+ engine it's a close but not quite a fit. The main concern is that the starter mounting area does not match up. What are the options for this combo? Do we need to use TR6 flywheel and rear engine plate to make this pairing work? Have other used this? What alterations/combos are required to make this work? Second question: I do not see two row timing chain and sprockets for sale for the GT6+. Are the TR250/TR6 components compatible? Thanks for the support of the group as we work through our issues to get a 100% Triumph powered TR4 on the track! Andy Packard _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From charly at mitchelplumbing.com Sun Jan 8 07:55:21 2017 From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly) Date: Sun, 8 Jan 2017 08:55:21 -0600 Subject: [Fot] TR4 Lemons race car project restarting Andy, the timing gear should be interchangeable from the TR6 and GT6. Charly Mitchel TR6 #44 On Sun 08/01/17 5:08 AM , Jason Sukey via Fot fot at autox.team.net sent: > Hi Andy,?I ran a TR gearbox in my GT6 street car for quite a few > years.? The gear ratios aren't as sweet as the GT6 box, but > it's a nice stout piece.? The TR6 rear plate is what you need.? > I'd stick with the GT6 flywheel though, it's lighter than the > TR flywheel.? They use the same pressure plate, so no worries, just > use a TR6 clutch disc.? You will need to make a custom pilot > bushing.? > Jason Sukey > > On Jan 8, 2017 12:18 AM, "Andrew Packard via Fot" wrote: > Hello from Bay Area: > > We have finally restarted our TR4 24 hours of Lemons race car > project.? Initially we were going to use a rotary drive train from an > RX7, but have since abandoned that and returned to a Triumph drive > train.? Thanks to Jeff Durant, we now have a GT6+ engine.? We have a > 4 speed TR6 tranny to start, but after a test fitting on the GT6+ > engine it's a close but not quite a fit.? The main concern is > that the starter mounting area does not match up. > What are the options for this combo?? Do we need to use TR6 flywheel > and rear engine plate to make this pairing work?? Have other used > this?? What alterations/combos are required to make this work? > Second question: > I do not see two row timing chain and sprockets for sale for the > GT6+.? Are the TR250/TR6 components compatible? > Thanks for the support of the group as we work through our issues to > get a 100% Triumph powered TR4 on the track! > Andy Packard > _______________________________________________ > http://www.fot-racing.com [3] > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html [4] > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive [5] > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums [6] > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jsukey at gmail.com [7] > > > Links: > ------ > [3] http://www.fot-racing.com > [4] http://www.team.net/donate.html > [5] http://www.team.net/archive > [6] http://www.team.net/forums > [7] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jsukey at gmail.com > > From edenma at aol.com Sun Jan 8 14:41:11 2017 From: edenma at aol.com (Mark A. Eden) Date: Sun, 8 Jan 2017 13:41:11 -0800 Subject: [Fot] TR4 Lemons Car References: Andy: The timing gear is all interchangeable but you may need to use the deeper TR6 timing cover and tensioner to accommodate the dual chain setup depending on what cover is presently on your GT6 engine. Cheers! Mark Sent from my iPad > On Jan 8, 2017, at 11:00, fot-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > Send Fot mailing list submissions to > fot at autox.team.net > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > fot-request at autox.team.net > > You can reach the person managing the list at > fot-owner at autox.team.net > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Fot digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. TR4 Lemons race car project restarting (Andrew Packard) > 2. Re: TR4 Lemons race car project restarting (Jason Sukey) > 3. Re: TR4 Lemons race car project restarting (Scott Janzen) > 4. Re: TR4 Lemons race car project restarting (Charly) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2017 18:05:32 -0800 > From: Andrew Packard > To: fot at autox.team.net > Subject: [Fot] TR4 Lemons race car project restarting > Message-ID: <0697AD95-E87C-4BC4-BD02-9AE9B30D4335 at att.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii > > Hello from Bay Area: > > We have finally restarted our TR4 24 hours of Lemons race car project. Initially we were going to use a rotary drive train from an RX7, but have since abandoned that and returned to a Triumph drive train. Thanks to Jeff Durant, we now have a GT6+ engine. We have a 4 speed TR6 tranny to start, but after a test fitting on the GT6+ engine it's a close but not quite a fit. The main concern is that the starter mounting area does not match up. > > What are the options for this combo? Do we need to use TR6 flywheel and rear engine plate to make this pairing work? Have other used this? What alterations/combos are required to make this work? > > Second question: > I do not see two row timing chain and sprockets for sale for the GT6+. Are the TR250/TR6 components compatible? > > Thanks for the support of the group as we work through our issues to get a 100% Triumph powered TR4 on the track! > > Andy Packard > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Sun, 8 Jan 2017 08:08:10 -0500 > From: Jason Sukey > To: Andrew Packard > Cc: FOT list > Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 Lemons race car project restarting > Message-ID: > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Hi Andy, > I ran a TR gearbox in my GT6 street car for quite a few years. The gear > ratios aren't as sweet as the GT6 box, but it's a nice stout piece. The > TR6 rear plate is what you need. I'd stick with the GT6 flywheel though, > it's lighter than the TR flywheel. They use the same pressure plate, so no > worries, just use a TR6 clutch disc. You will need to make a custom pilot > bushing. > > Jason Sukey > > On Jan 8, 2017 12:18 AM, "Andrew Packard via Fot" > wrote: > > Hello from Bay Area: > > We have finally restarted our TR4 24 hours of Lemons race car project. > Initially we were going to use a rotary drive train from an RX7, but have > since abandoned that and returned to a Triumph drive train. Thanks to Jeff > Durant, we now have a GT6+ engine. We have a 4 speed TR6 tranny to start, > but after a test fitting on the GT6+ engine it's a close but not quite a > fit. The main concern is that the starter mounting area does not match up. > > What are the options for this combo? Do we need to use TR6 flywheel and > rear engine plate to make this pairing work? Have other used this? What > alterations/combos are required to make this work? > > Second question: > I do not see two row timing chain and sprockets for sale for the GT6+. Are > the TR250/TR6 components compatible? > > Thanks for the support of the group as we work through our issues to get a > 100% Triumph powered TR4 on the track! > > Andy Packard > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/fot/jsukey at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 3 > Date: Sun, 8 Jan 2017 09:20:18 -0500 > From: Scott Janzen > To: Andrew Packard > Cc: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph > Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 Lemons race car project restarting > Message-ID: <5E240330-F139-4B65-9389-6C6DFC1E95C1 at me.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > I also run a Tr4/6 box in my GT6. As Andy says, you need the TR6 engine plate, and probably an extended pilot bushing (mine extends out to the face of the GT6 flywheel). Clutch splines are different so you may need to use a Tr4/6/7 clutch disk, or have one made. Though it?s expensive, the gear ratio issue can be addressed with a Moss Europe close ratio set, which greatly raises 1 and 2, three slightly and leaves 4 unchanged. > > TR6 slave cylinders mount forward/below, GT6 rearward/above - not sure how it will fit in your car. Modifications are needed to the shifter fork and shaft to accept the tapered bolt from the reverse direction for the GT6 configuration, and a new bracket to hold the slave cylinder. > > The TR6 box is bullet-proof compared to the GT6 box - do not consider going that direction. > > Timing chain/gear - I think they are interchangeable - look on the Wishbone Classics website or call Scott Harper at Team Triumph or any other supplier. > > I assume you are starting with the later GT6 engine - not the early narrow port engine? GT6+ should be the later/better one. > > On Jan 8, 2017, at 8:08 AM, Jason Sukey via Fot wrote: > > Hi Andy, > I ran a TR gearbox in my GT6 street car for quite a few years. The gear ratios aren't as sweet as the GT6 box, but it's a nice stout piece. The TR6 rear plate is what you need. I'd stick with the GT6 flywheel though, it's lighter than the TR flywheel. They use the same pressure plate, so no worries, just use a TR6 clutch disc. You will need to make a custom pilot bushing. > > Jason Sukey > > Hello from Bay Area: > > We have finally restarted our TR4 24 hours of Lemons race car project. Initially we were going to use a rotary drive train from an RX7, but have since abandoned that and returned to a Triumph drive train. Thanks to Jeff Durant, we now have a GT6+ engine. We have a 4 speed TR6 tranny to start, but after a test fitting on the GT6+ engine it's a close but not quite a fit. The main concern is that the starter mounting area does not match up. > > What are the options for this combo? Do we need to use TR6 flywheel and rear engine plate to make this pairing work? Have other used this? What alterations/combos are required to make this work? > > Second question: > I do not see two row timing chain and sprockets for sale for the GT6+. Are the TR250/TR6 components compatible? > > Thanks for the support of the group as we work through our issues to get a 100% Triumph powered TR4 on the track! > > Andy Packard > _______________________________________________ > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jsukey at gmail.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 4 > Date: Sun, 8 Jan 2017 08:55:21 -0600 > From: Charly > To: "Andrew Packard" > Cc: FOT list > Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 Lemons race car project restarting > Message-ID: <57277.1483887321 at mitchelplumbing.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Andy, the timing gear should be interchangeable from the TR6 and GT6. > Charly Mitchel > TR6 #44 > > On Sun 08/01/17 5:08 AM , Jason Sukey via Fot fot at autox.team.net sent: >> Hi Andy,?I ran a TR gearbox in my GT6 street car for quite a few >> years.? The gear ratios aren't as sweet as the GT6 box, but >> it's a nice stout piece.? The TR6 rear plate is what you need.? >> I'd stick with the GT6 flywheel though, it's lighter than the >> TR flywheel.? They use the same pressure plate, so no worries, just >> use a TR6 clutch disc.? You will need to make a custom pilot >> bushing.? >> Jason Sukey >> >> On Jan 8, 2017 12:18 AM, "Andrew Packard via Fot" wrote: >> Hello from Bay Area: >> >> We have finally restarted our TR4 24 hours of Lemons race car >> project.? Initially we were going to use a rotary drive train from an >> RX7, but have since abandoned that and returned to a Triumph drive >> train.? Thanks to Jeff Durant, we now have a GT6+ engine.? We have a >> 4 speed TR6 tranny to start, but after a test fitting on the GT6+ >> engine it's a close but not quite a fit.? The main concern is >> that the starter mounting area does not match up. >> What are the options for this combo?? Do we need to use TR6 flywheel >> and rear engine plate to make this pairing work?? Have other used >> this?? What alterations/combos are required to make this work? >> Second question: >> I do not see two row timing chain and sprockets for sale for the >> GT6+.? Are the TR250/TR6 components compatible? >> Thanks for the support of the group as we work through our issues to >> get a 100% Triumph powered TR4 on the track! >> Andy Packard >> _______________________________________________ >> http://www.fot-racing.com [3] >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html [4] >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive [5] >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums [6] >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jsukey at gmail.com [7] >> >> >> Links: >> ------ >> [3] http://www.fot-racing.com >> [4] http://www.team.net/donate.html >> [5] http://www.team.net/archive >> [6] http://www.team.net/forums >> [7] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jsukey at gmail.com >> >> > > > > ------------------------------ > > Subject: Digest Footer > > _______________________________________________ > Fot mailing list > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > > ------------------------------ > > End of Fot Digest, Vol 100, Issue 6 > *********************************** From apackard68 at att.net Sun Jan 8 16:42:55 2017 From: apackard68 at att.net (Andrew Packard) Date: Sun, 8 Jan 2017 15:42:55 -0800 Subject: [Fot] TR4 Lemons race car project restarting References: <0697AD95-E87C-4BC4-BD02-9AE9B30D4335@att.net> <436dd8ec-b43d-4750-840b-8c4e4c7b7c60@tr4racer.com> Thanks for the reply. It is a '64 TR4 and we haven't test fitted the engine yet (just got it yesterday). We'll be on the look out for the issue you have pointed out. Hopefully the engineers in our team can find a solution! (I'm finance and marketing with some wrenching skills!) Andy On Jan 8, 2017, at 6:03 AM, Yellow04 wrote: > Is the car a TR4 or a TR4A? I bought an early TR4 that some previous owner decided to put a TR6 engine in, what a hack job. The quality of the job is summed up by the fact they welded in the cross tube, the bit that spans the top of the spring turrets, the bit you remove when pulling the engine! Anyway, my point is the TR6 oil pan was too far forward for the steering rack. Or maybe it was the whole front crossmember, I don't remember. No problem, they just cut what was in the way and sort of reattached it further forward. Can you say "bump steer"??? > > I don't know how different a GT6 oil pan is, but I would certainly do some test fitting of the engine to the chassis before getting too into the project! > > Obviously, you are in the clear if it's a TR4A... > > Good luck! > >> -----Original Message----- >> >> On Jan 8, 2017 12:18 AM, "Andrew Packard via Fot" > >> Hello from Bay Area: >> >> We have finally restarted our TR4 24 hours of Lemons race car >> project. Initially we were going to use a rotary drive train from an RX7, but >> have since abandoned that and returned to a Triumph drive train. Thanks to >> Jeff Durant, we now have a GT6+ engine. > > From apackard68 at att.net Sun Jan 8 16:46:05 2017 From: apackard68 at att.net (Andrew Packard) Date: Sun, 8 Jan 2017 15:46:05 -0800 Subject: [Fot] TR4 Lemons race car project restarting References: <0697AD95-E87C-4BC4-BD02-9AE9B30D4335@att.net> <5E240330-F139-4B65-9389-6C6DFC1E95C1@me.com> Scott, Thanks for reply. We have GT6+ engine. We'll be using all TR6 stuff for the throw out bearing so hopefully few issues there, but we'll keep track of this additional potential issue. Andy On Jan 8, 2017, at 6:20 AM, Scott Janzen wrote: > I also run a Tr4/6 box in my GT6. As Andy says, you need the TR6 engine plate, and probably an extended pilot bushing (mine extends out to the face of the GT6 flywheel). Clutch splines are different so you may need to use a Tr4/6/7 clutch disk, or have one made. Though it?s expensive, the gear ratio issue can be addressed with a Moss Europe close ratio set, which greatly raises 1 and 2, three slightly and leaves 4 unchanged. > > TR6 slave cylinders mount forward/below, GT6 rearward/above - not sure how it will fit in your car. Modifications are needed to the shifter fork and shaft to accept the tapered bolt from the reverse direction for the GT6 configuration, and a new bracket to hold the slave cylinder. > > The TR6 box is bullet-proof compared to the GT6 box - do not consider going that direction. > > Timing chain/gear - I think they are interchangeable - look on the Wishbone Classics website or call Scott Harper at Team Triumph or any other supplier. > > I assume you are starting with the later GT6 engine - not the early narrow port engine? GT6+ should be the later/better one. > > On Jan 8, 2017, at 8:08 AM, Jason Sukey via Fot wrote: > > Hi Andy, > I ran a TR gearbox in my GT6 street car for quite a few years. The gear ratios aren't as sweet as the GT6 box, but it's a nice stout piece. The TR6 rear plate is what you need. I'd stick with the GT6 flywheel though, it's lighter than the TR flywheel. They use the same pressure plate, so no worries, just use a TR6 clutch disc. You will need to make a custom pilot bushing. > > Jason Sukey > > On Jan 8, 2017 12:18 AM, "Andrew Packard via Fot" wrote: > Hello from Bay Area: > > We have finally restarted our TR4 24 hours of Lemons race car project. Initially we were going to use a rotary drive train from an RX7, but have since abandoned that and returned to a Triumph drive train. Thanks to Jeff Durant, we now have a GT6+ engine. We have a 4 speed TR6 tranny to start, but after a test fitting on the GT6+ engine it's a close but not quite a fit. The main concern is that the starter mounting area does not match up. > > What are the options for this combo? Do we need to use TR6 flywheel and rear engine plate to make this pairing work? Have other used this? What alterations/combos are required to make this work? > > Second question: > I do not see two row timing chain and sprockets for sale for the GT6+. Are the TR250/TR6 components compatible? > > Thanks for the support of the group as we work through our issues to get a 100% Triumph powered TR4 on the track! > > Andy Packard > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jsukey at gmail.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From explore8 at outlook.com Mon Jan 9 09:31:30 2017 From: explore8 at outlook.com (D V) Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2017 16:31:30 +0000 Subject: [Fot] New Years Resolution: weight loss This is just one of many resolutions but thought I would seek some advice here. I have a pretty well prepared spit racer that would like to shed some pounds for the new year. He went on a diet in 2015 and lost about 60 lbs from his rear with the removal of some extraneous steel and going from a standard battery to a light weight Braille racing battery. Currently he weighs 1578 lbs with no fuel. Corner weights in the following format of FL/FR RL/RR are 450/449 and 341/338. The thought is to focus on his front this year. He already has a mini alternator and high torque starter (not sure the starter is any savings). What would be your top 5 things to review/address? Thanks! Derek From william.tobin31 at verizon.net Mon Jan 9 12:02:32 2017 From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin) Date: Mon, 09 Jan 2017 14:02:32 -0500 Subject: [Fot] New Years Resolution: weight loss References: In my case, the easiest thing would be to have the driver lose 20 pounds! Lost 20 last year and will work on it again this year. Cheers, Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: "D V via Fot" To: "FOT" Sent: Monday, January 09, 2017 11:31 AM Subject: [Fot] New Years Resolution: weight loss > This is just one of many resolutions but thought I would seek some advice > here. I have a pretty well prepared spit racer that would like to shed > some pounds for the new year. > > He went on a diet in 2015 and lost about 60 lbs from his rear with the > removal of some extraneous steel and going from a standard battery to a > light weight Braille racing battery. > > Currently he weighs 1578 lbs with no fuel. Corner weights in the following > format of FL/FR RL/RR are 450/449 and 341/338. > > The thought is to focus on his front this year. He already has a mini > alternator and high torque starter (not sure the starter is any savings). > > What would be your top 5 things to review/address? > > Thanks! > > Derek > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net > > From johnstydo at gmail.com Mon Jan 9 14:39:01 2017 From: johnstydo at gmail.com (John Styduhar) Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2017 16:39:01 -0500 Subject: [Fot] New Years Resolution: weight loss References: Anything you can get that is made out of aluminum. My 5 would be radiator, water pump housing, water pump, belt pulleys, alloy front hubs. On Mon, Jan 9, 2017 at 11:31 AM, D V via Fot wrote: > This is just one of many resolutions but thought I would seek some advice > here. I have a pretty well prepared spit racer that would like to shed some > pounds for the new year. > > He went on a diet in 2015 and lost about 60 lbs from his rear with the > removal of some extraneous steel and going from a standard battery to a > light weight Braille racing battery. > > Currently he weighs 1578 lbs with no fuel. Corner weights in the following > format of FL/FR RL/RR are 450/449 and 341/338. > > The thought is to focus on his front this year. He already has a mini > alternator and high torque starter (not sure the starter is any savings). > > What would be your top 5 things to review/address? > > Thanks! > > Derek > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/fot/johnstydo at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From explore8 at outlook.com Mon Jan 9 14:50:33 2017 From: explore8 at outlook.com (D V) Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2017 21:50:33 +0000 Subject: [Fot] New Years Resolution: weight loss References: , Correct me if I'm wrong but I think the 1584# is for a 1500 and 1432# for earlier spits. Driver losing 20 is definitely on the list. I am curious about all the alum parts suggestions and 1-if there is that much difference in weight and 2-would I be sacrificing any reliability? One thing that is an unknown and on my list to investigate is alum flywheel. Sent from my iPhone Anything you can get that is made out of aluminum. My 5 would be radiator, water pump housing, water pump, belt pulleys, alloy front hubs. This is just one of many resolutions but thought I would seek some advice here. I have a pretty well prepared spit racer that would like to shed some pounds for the new year. He went on a diet in 2015 and lost about 60 lbs from his rear with the removal of some extraneous steel and going from a standard battery to a light weight Braille racing battery. Currently he weighs 1578 lbs with no fuel. Corner weights in the following format of FL/FR RL/RR are 450/449 and 341/338. The thought is to focus on his front this year. He already has a mini alternator and high torque starter (not sure the starter is any savings). What would be your top 5 things to review/address? Thanks! Derek _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com Mon Jan 9 16:33:22 2017 From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (Bob Kramer) Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2017 17:33:22 -0600 Subject: [Fot] New Years Resolution: weight loss References: <7CA12D2978AF49078FF28A38CC5812D1@hpd530> All this talk of weight loss reminded me of something I wanted to offer up to the group, a cycling and charity opportunity. I've curious if there are any other cyclists among us. I started riding about 7 years ago and these days I am riding around some 40 lb's lighter than my "prime". Of course it is the training to prepare for a long ride that helps with losing weight and physical fitness. There are no guarantees but my goal is simply to live longer and to watch my grandkids grow up. Each year we ride an MS150, a two day charity ride for Multiple Sclerosis and lately we have been doing the Dallas/Fort Worth ride which has great access to airports and hotels. It is also a flatter ride than some. If there are any other cyclists that want to try one of these events we have an 8 person team that is already half Triumph owners. I could probably borrow suitable bikes for out of town riders if you had such an interest. Contact me if this interests you. Bob Kramer From barry at penybryn.ca Mon Jan 9 17:46:38 2017 From: barry at penybryn.ca (Barry Munson) Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2017 17:46:38 -0700 Subject: [Fot] New Years Resolution: weight loss References: , Hi DV - A couple of years ago during the initial build of my TR3 I started to keep track of the weight savings that I could get just from the addition of aluminum/alloy bolt-on parts. The current total is close to 118 lbs with 88 from the front of the car. All fenders, hood, trunk lid, and spare tire cover have remained steel. The table is quite long but if you would like a copy I would be glad to send it to you. None of the added parts have failed or had any issue in 2 years of use. Barry. From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of D V via Fot Sent: Monday, January 09, 2017 2:51 PM To: FOT Subject: Re: [Fot] New Years Resolution: weight loss Correct me if I'm wrong but I think the 1584# is for a 1500 and 1432# for earlier spits. Driver losing 20 is definitely on the list. I am curious about all the alum parts suggestions and 1-if there is that much difference in weight and 2-would I be sacrificing any reliability? One thing that is an unknown and on my list to investigate is alum flywheel. Sent from my iPhone On Jan 9, 2017, at 3:39 PM, John Styduhar wrote: Anything you can get that is made out of aluminum. My 5 would be radiator, water pump housing, water pump, belt pulleys, alloy front hubs. On Mon, Jan 9, 2017 at 11:31 AM, D V via Fot wrote: This is just one of many resolutions but thought I would seek some advice here. I have a pretty well prepared spit racer that would like to shed some pounds for the new year. He went on a diet in 2015 and lost about 60 lbs from his rear with the removal of some extraneous steel and going from a standard battery to a light weight Braille racing battery. Currently he weighs 1578 lbs with no fuel. Corner weights in the following format of FL/FR RL/RR are 450/449 and 341/338. The thought is to focus on his front this year. He already has a mini alternator and high torque starter (not sure the starter is any savings). What would be your top 5 things to review/address? Thanks! Derek _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/johnstydo at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jhasty at mhc-law.com Mon Jan 9 17:50:14 2017 From: jhasty at mhc-law.com (John Hasty) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2017 00:50:14 +0000 Subject: [Fot] New Years Resolution: weight loss References: , , An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From nicholsondustin at yahoo.com Mon Jan 9 18:03:42 2017 From: nicholsondustin at yahoo.com (Dustin Nicholson) Date: Mon, 09 Jan 2017 19:03:42 -0600 Subject: [Fot] New Years Resolution: weight loss Dang Derek, your spit is still 100 pounds heavier than mine. And mine is an all steel square tail. The secret to my lean weight is the rust holes that seemed to grow every year! I assume that's what Colin Chapman meant by "add lightness". Maybe you should start by removing that massive Hurst shifter, I'm sure the Starsky and Hutch Museum will be glad to have it back.? Dustin Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device -------- Original message --------From: D V via Fot Date: 1/9/17 10:31 AM (GMT-06:00) To: FOT Subject: [Fot] New Years Resolution: weight loss This is just one of many resolutions but thought I would seek some advice here. I have a pretty well prepared spit racer that would like to shed some pounds for the new year. He went on a diet in 2015 and lost about 60 lbs from his rear with the removal of some extraneous steel and going from a standard battery to a light weight Braille racing battery. Currently he weighs 1578 lbs with no fuel. Corner weights in the following format of FL/FR RL/RR are 450/449 and 341/338. The thought is to focus on his front this year. He already has a mini alternator and high torque starter (not sure the starter is any savings). What would be your top 5 things to review/address? Thanks! Derek _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From william.tobin31 at verizon.net Tue Jan 10 07:41:46 2017 From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2017 09:41:46 -0500 Subject: [Fot] New Years Resolution: weight loss References: <7CA12D2978AF49078FF28A38CC5812D1@hpd530> <000001d26ad0$c6acc940$54065bc0$@rr.com> Bob and FOT, I started riding in 1980! Haven't been as active the last few years ( a certain TR6 may be part of the reason!) but somewhat resumed riding last year. And plan on doing a lot more this year. Bicycling is great exercise and a lot of fun, and a great way to see the world. One does not have to spend thousands to get a suitable bike (I do though, have a Tommasini and a Quintana Roo Tri bike that weren't cheap) as there are numerous options out there. The main thing is to get a bike that fits and is suitable to your needs. There are a lot of high-zoot bikes on the market that aren't necessarily what is needed. There are a lot of older bikes, '90's and '00's out there for sale, usually fairly inexpensive. Just get one that fits. I've done some MS rides in NW PA, and other "Disease" rides over the years. Fun and for good causes. Also rode support for a few. Biking is also less stress on my old body than running. So is swimming but I swim like a stone! Important points: Fit is crucial, wear a helmet, and have a mirror to see what's coming at you. Cheers, and stay warm. Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Kramer via Fot" To: Sent: Monday, January 09, 2017 6:33 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] New Years Resolution: weight loss > All this talk of weight loss reminded me of something I wanted to offer up > to the group, a cycling and charity opportunity. I've curious if there are > any other cyclists among us. I started riding about 7 years ago and these > days I am riding around some 40 lb's lighter than my "prime". Of course it > is the training to prepare for a long ride that helps with losing weight > and > physical fitness. There are no guarantees but my goal is simply to live > longer and to watch my grandkids grow up. > > Each year we ride an MS150, a two day charity ride for Multiple Sclerosis > and lately we have been doing the Dallas/Fort Worth ride which has great > access to airports and hotels. It is also a flatter ride than some. If > there > are any other cyclists that want to try one of these events we have an 8 > person team that is already half Triumph owners. I could probably borrow > suitable bikes for out of town riders if you had such an interest. Contact > me if this interests you. > > Bob Kramer > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net > > From cmstenquist at gmail.com Tue Jan 10 08:08:27 2017 From: cmstenquist at gmail.com (carl stenquist) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2017 10:08:27 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR4 on BaT I have listed my TR4 on Bringatrailer. http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1962-triumph-tr4/. Reason for selling is so I can compete in group 1. Check it out and pass the word . Thanks Carl Stenquist -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From explore8 at outlook.com Tue Jan 10 08:36:22 2017 From: explore8 at outlook.com (D V) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2017 15:36:22 +0000 Subject: [Fot] New Years Resolution: weight loss References: , , , <059B3A52-E24A-4860-B9FB-29BC277B4EF3@mhc-law.com> Starsky and hutch? Nice! Made me laugh. Sent from my iPhone Correct....assumed you had a 1500 Sent from my iPhone Correct me if I'm wrong but I think the 1584# is for a 1500 and 1432# for earlier spits. Driver losing 20 is definitely on the list. I am curious about all the alum parts suggestions and 1-if there is that much difference in weight and 2-would I be sacrificing any reliability? One thing that is an unknown and on my list to investigate is alum flywheel. Sent from my iPhone Anything you can get that is made out of aluminum. My 5 would be radiator, water pump housing, water pump, belt pulleys, alloy front hubs. This is just one of many resolutions but thought I would seek some advice here. I have a pretty well prepared spit racer that would like to shed some pounds for the new year. He went on a diet in 2015 and lost about 60 lbs from his rear with the removal of some extraneous steel and going from a standard battery to a light weight Braille racing battery. Currently he weighs 1578 lbs with no fuel. Corner weights in the following format of FL/FR RL/RR are 450/449 and 341/338. The thought is to focus on his front this year. He already has a mini alternator and high torque starter (not sure the starter is any savings). What would be your top 5 things to review/address? Thanks! Derek _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This electronic mail transmission has been sent by a law firm on a legal matter. It may contain information that is confidential, privileged, proprietary, or otherwise legally exempt from disclosure. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that you are not authorized to read, print, retain, copy or disseminate this message, any part of it, or any attachments. If you have received this message in error, please delete this message and any attachments from your system without reading the content and notify the sender immediately of the inadvertent transmission. There is no intent on the part of the sender to waive any privilege, including the attorney-client privilege, that may attach to this communication. Thank you for your cooperation. 11 U.S.C. 528(a)(4) NOTICE. We are a debt relief agency. We help people file for bankruptcy relief under the federal Bankruptcy Code. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com Tue Jan 10 16:32:41 2017 From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (Bob Kramer) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2017 17:32:41 -0600 Subject: [Fot] rolling TR3 frame and driveline Anyone need a rolling TR3 frame complete with driveline (no overdrive), not 100% certain of rust condition as I haven't seen it. An estate is trying to sell it. I told them they might have to give it away to cover transportation costs. It is in south central Texas. Contact me if interested. Bob Kramer -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com Wed Jan 11 06:17:46 2017 From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (Bob Kramer) Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2017 07:17:46 -0600 Subject: [Fot] rolling TR3 frame and driveline References: <000001d26b99$d699fcf0$83cdf6d0$@rr.com> I have 3 interested parties all close enough to "come and take it". I am waiting on a picture of it to send to those three guys and figure out the best way to go with this but it is for all intents and purposes taken. Sent from my iPhone > On Jan 10, 2017, at 5:32 PM, Bob Kramer via Fot wrote: > > Anyone need a rolling TR3 frame complete with driveline (no overdrive), not 100% certain of rust condition as I haven?t seen it. An estate is trying to sell it. I told them they might have to give it away to cover transportation costs. It is in south central Texas. > > Contact me if interested. > > Bob Kramer > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer3 at austin.rr.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From list at mackenzie.aero Wed Jan 11 14:16:31 2017 From: list at mackenzie.aero (Robert MacKenzie) Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2017 15:16:31 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Squaretail Spitfire body & frame I have a solid almost rust free Squaretail Spitfire body and frame to give away. It would be the perfect start for an autoX or vintage racer. Frame is straight and rust free. Solid floors and door sills; some rust on trunk lid. Roller with diff and suspension. No engine or gearbox. Free! Photo: http://imgur.com/a/QhJtq Robert MacKenzie Spitfire Garage Georgetown, TX (210) 415-5107 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From robertten1 at aol.com Thu Jan 12 10:19:31 2017 From: robertten1 at aol.com (robertten1 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2017 12:19:31 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Gasket Amici Thriumphi, Quick question for the group ... who is supplying/making the best of the Silicone Valve Cover Gaskets ? They are turning up everywhere and I am interested in purchasing a couple for my Spitfires ( stock factory valve covers ). Wishing a TRiumphant New Year to all, Bob T '64 Spit GT autocrosser '63 Spitfire4 stock -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From edenma at aol.com Thu Jan 12 10:44:58 2017 From: edenma at aol.com (Mark A. Eden) Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2017 10:44:58 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Another rolling TR3 frame Amici: I also have a good rolling TR3 frame that needs to find a new home. No engine or gearbox, but included, is most of an inner tub including good floor boards. Rear half of tub was used as a donor to repair another car damaged in a hanger collapse. Some additional sheet metal and misc parts available. Cheers! Mark Eden Evergreen, Colorado Sent from my iPad From charly at mitchelplumbing.com Thu Jan 12 12:04:55 2017 From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel) Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2017 11:04:55 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Gasket References: <15993b10efe-62b4-809f@webprd-m108.mail.aol.com> Not sure how to determine the best, but I bought some from ARE, and they are very good. Charly Mitchel TR6 #44 ----- Original Message ----- From: Bob Totten via Fot To: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2017 9:19 AM Subject: [Fot] Gasket Amici Thriumphi, Quick question for the group ... who is supplying/making the best of the Silicone Valve Cover Gaskets ? They are turning up everywhere and I am interested in purchasing a couple for my Spitfires ( stock factory valve covers ). Wishing a TRiumphant New Year to all, Bob T '64 Spit GT autocrosser '63 Spitfire4 stock ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tony at tonydrews.com Thu Jan 12 12:14:55 2017 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2017 13:14:55 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Gasket References: <15993b10efe-62b4-809f@webprd-m108.mail.aol.com> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From joealexandervintage at gmail.com Thu Jan 12 12:41:41 2017 From: joealexandervintage at gmail.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2017 13:41:41 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Gasket References: <15993b10efe-62b4-809f@webprd-m108.mail.aol.com> That would be ARE/Gasket Innovations. We are doing a discount code on our website for VTR. The discount code is ARE/GI You might use it. 20% We are thinking about doing this for FOT across the board, but didn't want to do a lot of commercial stuff on the list. The silicone gaskets have been HUGE. Superior in sealing and reusable. Regards, Joe Alexander 645 1st Street Jesup, IA 50648 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711 > On Jan 12, 2017, at 11:19 AM, Bob Totten via Fot wrote: > > Amici Thriumphi, > > Quick question for the group ... who is supplying/making the best of the Silicone Valve Cover Gaskets ? They are turning up everywhere and I am interested in purchasing a couple for my Spitfires ( stock factory valve covers ). > > > Wishing a TRiumphant New Year to all, > > Bob T > '64 Spit GT autocrosser > '63 Spitfire4 stock > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/joe at the-vintage-racer.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com Thu Jan 12 13:11:12 2017 From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott) Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2017 20:11:12 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Gasket References: <15993b10efe-62b4-809f@webprd-m108.mail.aol.com> I can?t speak to the rest of the versions that are turning up everywhere, but I have been very happy with what Gasket Innovations has sent me. Our own Joe and Sean Alexander do a great job and produce a nice product. http://gasketinnovations.com/ Scott (B.) From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Totten via Fot Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2017 11:20 AM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] Gasket Amici Thriumphi, Quick question for the group ... who is supplying/making the best of the Silicone Valve Cover Gaskets ? They are turning up everywhere and I am interested in purchasing a couple for my Spitfires ( stock factory valve covers ). Wishing a TRiumphant New Year to all, Bob T '64 Spit GT autocrosser '63 Spitfire4 stock -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulricco at att.net Thu Jan 12 14:41:29 2017 From: paulricco at att.net (Paul Ricco) Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2017 15:41:29 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Gasket References: <15993b10efe-62b4-809f@webprd-m108.mail.aol.com> <20170112191501.345A120C87@relay.mailchannels.net> We installed one of these, from ARE,and we have been very happy with it. It has been on our car for 2 years with no issues. Paul Sent from my iPad > On Jan 12, 2017, at 1:14 PM, Tony Drews via Fot wrote: > > Our own Joe Alexander and family make these. Website link to Triumph page here: > http://www.gasketinnovations.com/index.php/gasket-innovations/triumph-gaskets > > Regards, Tony Drews > > At 11:19 AM 1/12/2017, Bob Totten via Fot wrote: >> Amici Thriumphi, >> >> Quick question for the group ... who is supplying/making the best of the Silicone Valve Cover Gaskets ? They are turning up everywhere and I am interested in purchasing a couple for my Spitfires ( stock factory valve covers ). >> >> >> Wishing a TRiumphant New Year to all, >> >> Bob T >> '64 Spit GT autocrosser >> '63 Spitfire4 stock >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/paulricco at att.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From REK46 at aol.com Thu Jan 12 15:05:54 2017 From: REK46 at aol.com (REK46 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2017 17:05:54 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Gasket I can attest that they work AWESOME.....rick kristoff In a message dated 1/12/2017 4:45:33 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, fot at autox.team.net writes: Our own Joe Alexander and family make these. Website link to Triumph page here: http://www.gasketinnovations.com/index.php/gasket-innovations/triumph-gasket s Regards, Tony Drews At 11:19 AM 1/12/2017, Bob Totten via Fot wrote: Amici Thriumphi, Quick question for the group ... who is supplying/making the best of the Silicone Valve Cover Gaskets ? They are turning up everywhere and I am interested in purchasing a couple for my Spitfires ( stock factory valve covers ). Wishing a TRiumphant New Year to all, Bob T '64 Spit GT autocrosser '63 Spitfire4 stock _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net _http://www.fot-racing.com_ (http://www.fot-racing.com/) Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From n197tr4 at cs.com Thu Jan 12 18:19:41 2017 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2017 19:19:41 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Gasket References: <15993b10efe-62b4-809f@webprd-m108.mail.aol.com> <84F56CFCC31FAC48AE160008ADDECFA54802C125@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com> We supply to several distributors, so I suspect that you will get ours in most cases. I think BFE is coming on board, shortly. Charly Mitchell, too. There was talk of weight reduction, too. Aluminum is about 1/3 the weight and we manufacture several front and rear engine plates. Finally, we are now a supplier to Carroll Shelby International. They are using our light weight spun aluminum head lamp replacement on their racing version of the "continuation of build Cobras". These are painted black for showing at Barrett Jackson. Not a big profit center, but fun stuff for these Iowa Boyz. Joe Alexander 645 1st Street Jesup, IA 50648 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711 > On Jan 12, 2017, at 2:11 PM, Barr, Scott via Fot wrote: > > I can?t speak to the rest of the versions that are turning up everywhere, but I have been very happy with what Gasket Innovations has sent me. Our own Joe and Sean Alexander do a great job and produce a nice product. > > http://gasketinnovations.com/ > > Scott (B.) > > From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Totten via Fot > Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2017 11:20 AM > To: fot at autox.team.net > Subject: [Fot] Gasket > > Amici Thriumphi, > > Quick question for the group ... who is supplying/making the best of the Silicone Valve Cover Gaskets ? They are turning up everywhere and I am interested in purchasing a couple for my Spitfires ( stock factory valve covers ). > > > Wishing a TRiumphant New Year to all, > > Bob T > '64 Spit GT autocrosser > '63 Spitfire4 stock > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image1.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 64531 bytes Desc: not available URL: From n197tr4 at cs.com Thu Jan 12 18:38:26 2017 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2017 19:38:26 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Gasket References: <15993b10efe-62b4-809f@webprd-m108.mail.aol.com> <20170112191501.345A120C87@relay.mailchannels.net> FOT: Sean worked with Justin Wagner on this project. Justin most graciously supported the efforts. Then Sean programmed and used a CNC driven router to produce the molds. Then he replicated the molds to achieve higher levels of production, for certain part numbers. Labor is a bit hard to come by, but we are working on that, too. Right now, if you are a VTR member, you are eligible for a discount. Henry Frye just took advantage of that for his STAG. Regards, Joe Alexander 645 1st Street Jesup, IA 50648 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711 > On Jan 12, 2017, at 3:41 PM, Paul Ricco via Fot wrote: > > We installed one of these, from ARE,and we have been very happy with it. It has been on our car for 2 years with no issues. > > Paul > > Sent from my iPad > >> On Jan 12, 2017, at 1:14 PM, Tony Drews via Fot wrote: >> >> Our own Joe Alexander and family make these. Website link to Triumph page here: >> http://www.gasketinnovations.com/index.php/gasket-innovations/triumph-gaskets >> >> Regards, Tony Drews >> >> At 11:19 AM 1/12/2017, Bob Totten via Fot wrote: >>> Amici Thriumphi, >>> >>> Quick question for the group ... who is supplying/making the best of the Silicone Valve Cover Gaskets ? They are turning up everywhere and I am interested in purchasing a couple for my Spitfires ( stock factory valve covers ). >>> >>> >>> Wishing a TRiumphant New Year to all, >>> >>> Bob T >>> '64 Spit GT autocrosser >>> '63 Spitfire4 stock >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/paulricco at att.net >> >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From joealexandervintage at gmail.com Thu Jan 12 19:05:32 2017 From: joealexandervintage at gmail.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2017 20:05:32 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Gasket References: No more scraping cork. Bond one side to cover and forget. Remove and replace multiple times. Joe Alexander 645 1st Street Jesup, IA 50648 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711 > On Jan 12, 2017, at 4:05 PM, Rick Kristoff via Fot wrote: > > I can attest that they work AWESOME.....rick kristoff > > In a message dated 1/12/2017 4:45:33 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, fot at autox.team.net writes: > Our own Joe Alexander and family make these. Website link to Triumph page here: > http://www.gasketinnovations.com/index.php/gasket-innovations/triumph-gaskets > > Regards, Tony Drews > > At 11:19 AM 1/12/2017, Bob Totten via Fot wrote: >> Amici Thriumphi, >> >> Quick question for the group ... who is supplying/making the best of the Silicone Valve Cover Gaskets ? They are turning up everywhere and I am interested in purchasing a couple for my Spitfires ( stock factory valve covers ). >> >> >> Wishing a TRiumphant New Year to all, >> >> Bob T >> '64 Spit GT autocrosser >> '63 Spitfire4 stock >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rek46 at aol.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/joe at the-vintage-racer.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From 4msonset at gmail.com Thu Jan 12 20:10:07 2017 From: 4msonset at gmail.com (J W) Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2017 19:10:07 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Gasket References: <15993b10efe-62b4-809f@webprd-m108.mail.aol.com> <20170112191501.345A120C87@relay.mailchannels.net> <6A288FC0-D584-46EF-A8D5-5A08DDEE716B@cs.com> Joe, Don't give me too much credit! What little I did, which was like an email, I was happy to share with the Alexanders! The products look great. --Justin Wagner > On Jan 12, 2017, at 5:38 PM, Joe Alexander via Fot wrote: > > FOT: > > Sean worked with Justin Wagner on this project. Justin most graciously supported the efforts. > > Then Sean programmed and used a CNC driven router to produce the molds. Then he replicated the molds to achieve higher levels of production, for certain part numbers. > > Labor is a bit hard to come by, but we are working on that, too. > > Right now, if you are a VTR member, you are eligible for a discount. Henry Frye just took advantage of that for his STAG. > > Regards, > > Joe Alexander > 645 1st Street > Jesup, IA 50648 > The-vintage-racer.com > Gasketinnovations.com > Cell: 319.464.4711 > >> On Jan 12, 2017, at 3:41 PM, Paul Ricco via Fot wrote: >> >> We installed one of these, from ARE,and we have been very happy with it. It has been on our car for 2 years with no issues. >> >> Paul >> >> Sent from my iPad >> >>> On Jan 12, 2017, at 1:14 PM, Tony Drews via Fot wrote: >>> >>> Our own Joe Alexander and family make these. Website link to Triumph page here: >>> http://www.gasketinnovations.com/index.php/gasket-innovations/triumph-gaskets >>> >>> Regards, Tony Drews >>> >>> At 11:19 AM 1/12/2017, Bob Totten via Fot wrote: >>>> Amici Thriumphi, >>>> >>>> Quick question for the group ... who is supplying/making the best of the Silicone Valve Cover Gaskets ? They are turning up everywhere and I am interested in purchasing a couple for my Spitfires ( stock factory valve covers ). >>>> >>>> >>>> Wishing a TRiumphant New Year to all, >>>> >>>> Bob T >>>> '64 Spit GT autocrosser >>>> '63 Spitfire4 stock >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> fot at autox.team.net >>>> >>>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>>> >>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/paulricco at att.net >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/4msonset at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jhassall at gmail.com Thu Jan 12 20:54:12 2017 From: jhassall at gmail.com (J.C. Hassall) Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2017 22:54:12 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Gasket References: <544F2128-9B5F-4A37-9D03-CD95B200BCA2@gmail.com> Best part: don't have to throw them ice water when pulling off a hot engine jim Fat-thumbed from my iPhone7 > On Jan 12, 2017, at 9:05 PM, Joe Alexander via Fot wrote: > > No more scraping cork. > > Bond one side to cover and forget. > > Remove and replace multiple times. > > Joe Alexander > 645 1st Street > Jesup, IA 50648 > The-vintage-racer.com > Gasketinnovations.com > Cell: 319.464.4711 > >> On Jan 12, 2017, at 4:05 PM, Rick Kristoff via Fot wrote: >> >> I can attest that they work AWESOME.....rick kristoff >> >> In a message dated 1/12/2017 4:45:33 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, fot at autox.team.net writes: >> Our own Joe Alexander and family make these. Website link to Triumph page here: >> http://www.gasketinnovations.com/index.php/gasket-innovations/triumph-gaskets >> >> Regards, Tony Drews >> >> At 11:19 AM 1/12/2017, Bob Totten via Fot wrote: >>> Amici Thriumphi, >>> >>> Quick question for the group ... who is supplying/making the best of the Silicone Valve Cover Gaskets ? They are turning up everywhere and I am interested in purchasing a couple for my Spitfires ( stock factory valve covers ). >>> >>> >>> Wishing a TRiumphant New Year to all, >>> >>> Bob T >>> '64 Spit GT autocrosser >>> '63 Spitfire4 stock >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rek46 at aol.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/joe at the-vintage-racer.com >> >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhassall at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kaskastner at gmail.com Thu Jan 12 21:28:10 2017 From: kaskastner at gmail.com (Kas Kastner) Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2017 20:28:10 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Gaskets I thought everyone knew that Joe Alexanders "Gasket Innovations" had the best valve cover gaskets in the world. Well, he does. *Never be beaten by equipment.* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com Fri Jan 13 04:37:37 2017 From: rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com (Bob Davis) Date: Fri, 13 Jan 2017 06:37:37 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Gasket References: <15993b10efe-62b4-809f@webprd-m108.mail.aol.com> <20170112191501.345A120C87@relay.mailchannels.net> <6A288FC0-D584-46EF-A8D5-5A08DDEE716B@cs.com> Put um on my Stag too! They are fantastic. Bob Davis On 1/12/17 8:38 PM, Joe Alexander via Fot wrote: > FOT: > > Sean worked with Justin Wagner on this project. Justin most graciously > supported the efforts. > > Then Sean programmed and used a CNC driven router to produce the > molds. Then he replicated the molds to achieve higher levels of > production, for certain part numbers. > > Labor is a bit hard to come by, but we are working on that, too. > > Right now, if you are a VTR member, you are eligible for a discount. > Henry Frye just took advantage of that for his STAG. > > Regards, > > Joe Alexander > 645 1st Street > Jesup, IA 50648 > The-vintage-racer.com > Gasketinnovations.com > Cell: 319.464.4711 > > On Jan 12, 2017, at 3:41 PM, Paul Ricco via Fot >> We installed one of these, from ARE,and we have been very happy with >> it. It has been on our car for 2 years with no issues. >> >> Paul >> >> Sent from my iPad >> >> On Jan 12, 2017, at 1:14 PM, Tony Drews via Fot > >>> Our own Joe Alexander and family make these. Website link to >>> Triumph page here: >>> http://www.gasketinnovations.com/index.php/gasket-innovations/triumph-gaskets >>> >>> >>> Regards, Tony Drews >>> >>> At 11:19 AM 1/12/2017, Bob Totten via Fot wrote: >>>> Amici Thriumphi, >>>> >>>> Quick question for the group ... who is supplying/making the best >>>> of the Silicone Valve Cover Gaskets ? They are turning up >>>> everywhere and I am interested in purchasing a couple for my >>>> Spitfires ( stock factory valve covers ). >>>> >>>> >>>> Wishing a TRiumphant New Year to all, >>>> >>>> Bob T >>>> '64 Spit GT autocrosser >>>> '63 Spitfire4 stock >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> >>>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>>> >>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/paulricco at att.net >>> >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com >> >> > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr3a58 at verizon.net Fri Jan 13 06:43:37 2017 From: tr3a58 at verizon.net (Dean Tetterton) Date: Fri, 13 Jan 2017 08:43:37 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Gasket References: <15993b10efe-62b4-809f@webprd-m108.mail.aol.com> <84F56CFCC31FAC48AE160008ADDECFA54802C125@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com> WOW to think I use the same headlight covers as a Cobra. That has got to make my TR4 faster?. Sean??.Watch for those yellow flames in your mirror at the Kastner Cup. Dean T. > On Jan 12, 2017, at 8:19 PM, Joe Alexander via Fot wrote: > > We supply to several distributors, so I suspect that you will get ours in most cases. > > I think BFE is coming on board, shortly. > > Charly Mitchell, too. > > There was talk of weight reduction, too. Aluminum is about 1/3 the weight and we manufacture several front and rear engine plates. > > Finally, we are now a supplier to Carroll Shelby International. They are using our light weight spun aluminum head lamp replacement on their racing version of the "continuation of build Cobras". These are painted black for showing at Barrett Jackson. Not a big profit center, but fun stuff for these Iowa Boyz. > > > > Joe Alexander > 645 1st Street > Jesup, IA 50648 > The-vintage-racer.com > Gasketinnovations.com > Cell: 319.464.4711 > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From n197tr4 at cs.com Fri Jan 13 07:12:27 2017 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Fri, 13 Jan 2017 08:12:27 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Gasket. Headlamp replacements. & Pegasus. References: <15993b10efe-62b4-809f@webprd-m108.mail.aol.com> <84F56CFCC31FAC48AE160008ADDECFA54802C125@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com> <82DEDF65-437B-4C44-AD83-71D7B0412618@verizon.net> Thanks Dean Tetterton, I get a big kick out of the Shelby Cobras using the head lamp replacements by ARE. But then, I am easily entertained. They are at Barrett Jackson now, if anyone happens to be going. Henry Ford III and Shelby's grandson are making a formal announcement on resumed production of Cobras next Thursday. Pegasus has the head lamp replacements at a very good price. Some have been confused by the pricing as "each", but the price is really for a pair. Or you can get them from me. After this production run, my material cost is going up by 25%, so now is the time...... Think Kastner Cup......there is something very magical happening with this event. Due to the diligence and attention to detail of Brian Garcia and Jason Ostrowski, this will be a peak experience. VSCDA is likely the best Sanctioning Body in North America and Black Hawk Farms is amazing for our cars and is very user friendly. Regards, Joe Alexander 645 1st Street Jesup, IA 50648 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711 > On Jan 13, 2017, at 7:43 AM, Dean Tetterton wrote: > > WOW to think I use the same headlight covers as a Cobra. That has got to make > my TR4 faster?. > Sean??.Watch for those yellow flames in your mirror at the Kastner Cup. > > Dean T. > > >> On Jan 12, 2017, at 8:19 PM, Joe Alexander via Fot wrote: >> >> We supply to several distributors, so I suspect that you will get ours in most cases. >> >> I think BFE is coming on board, shortly. >> >> Charly Mitchell, too. >> >> There was talk of weight reduction, too. Aluminum is about 1/3 the weight and we manufacture several front and rear engine plates. >> >> Finally, we are now a supplier to Carroll Shelby International. They are using our light weight spun aluminum head lamp replacement on their racing version of the "continuation of build Cobras". These are painted black for showing at Barrett Jackson. Not a big profit center, but fun stuff for these Iowa Boyz. >> >> >> >> Joe Alexander >> 645 1st Street >> Jesup, IA 50648 >> The-vintage-racer.com >> Gasketinnovations.com >> Cell: 319.464.4711 >> > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image1.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 90306 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bownes at web9.com Fri Jan 13 07:37:23 2017 From: bownes at web9.com (robert bownes) Date: Fri, 13 Jan 2017 06:37:23 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Gasket. Headlamp replacements. & Pegasus. References: <15993b10efe-62b4-809f@webprd-m108.mail.aol.com> <84F56CFCC31FAC48AE160008ADDECFA54802C125@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com> <82DEDF65-437B-4C44-AD83-71D7B0412618@verizon.net> Are you sure the Cobra guys are not getting the special, lightened, acid dipped version for the extra little bit of performance? ;) The Caroll's would approve, I'm sure. On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 6:12 AM, Joe Alexander via Fot wrote: > Thanks Dean Tetterton, > > I get a big kick out of the Shelby Cobras using the head lamp replacements > by ARE. But then, I am easily entertained. They are at Barrett Jackson now, > if anyone happens to be going. Henry Ford III and Shelby's grandson are > making a formal announcement on resumed production of Cobras next Thursday. > > Pegasus has the head lamp replacements at a very good price. Some have > been confused by the pricing as "each", but the price is really for a pair. > Or you can get them from me. After this production run, my material cost is > going up by 25%, so now is the time...... > > Think Kastner Cup......there is something very magical happening with this > event. Due to the diligence and attention to detail of Brian Garcia and > Jason Ostrowski, this will be a peak experience. VSCDA is likely the best > Sanctioning Body in North America and Black Hawk Farms is amazing for our > cars and is very user friendly. > > [image: image1.JPG] > > Regards, > > Joe Alexander > 645 1st Street > Jesup, IA 50648 > The-vintage-racer.com > Gasketinnovations.com > Cell: 319.464.4711 <(319)%20464-4711> > > On Jan 13, 2017, at 7:43 AM, Dean Tetterton wrote: > > WOW to think I use the same headlight covers as a Cobra. That has got to > make > my TR4 faster?. > Sean??.Watch for those yellow flames in your mirror at the Kastner Cup. > > Dean T. > > > On Jan 12, 2017, at 8:19 PM, Joe Alexander via Fot > wrote: > > We supply to several distributors, so I suspect that you will get ours in > most cases. > > I think BFE is coming on board, shortly. > > Charly Mitchell, too. > > There was talk of weight reduction, too. Aluminum is about 1/3 the weight > and we manufacture several front and rear engine plates. > > Finally, we are now a supplier to Carroll Shelby International. They are > using our light weight spun aluminum head lamp replacement on their racing > version of the "continuation of build Cobras". These are painted black for > showing at Barrett Jackson. Not a big profit center, but fun stuff for > these Iowa Boyz. > > > > Joe Alexander > 645 1st Street > Jesup, IA 50648 > The-vintage-racer.com > Gasketinnovations.com > Cell: 319.464.4711 <(319)%20464-4711> > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/fot/bownes at web9.com > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image1.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 90306 bytes Desc: not available URL: From n197tr4 at cs.com Fri Jan 13 07:49:16 2017 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Fri, 13 Jan 2017 08:49:16 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Gasket. Headlamp replacements. & Pegasus. References: <15993b10efe-62b4-809f@webprd-m108.mail.aol.com> <84F56CFCC31FAC48AE160008ADDECFA54802C125@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com> <82DEDF65-437B-4C44-AD83-71D7B0412618@verizon.net> Jim, Thanks......it's in the works, with a mold and a prototype. But we need to find time to advance the design into a useful product. We think you are exactly right about the market. Reusable, no cork scraping, superior sealing. We have a plan for the final design, but have not produced one yet. Btw, Sean has redeveloped the molds for the rear tranny mount so it is compatible with over drive transmissions......but having trouble finding the time or hired labor to produce them. Here is Sean working on the Ambro......for the Kastner Cup. Joe Alexander 645 1st Street Jesup, IA 50648 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711 > On Jan 13, 2017, at 8:33 AM, J.C. Hassall wrote: > > Hey Joe > I sure wish y'all would rethink TR4 sump gaskets. There is big market there, including me. And it's all about me, right? :-) > > It's really cool that you're so tied in with Shelby. In my next life I'm gonna have another DP TR4 and a Cobra. Or I'm not coming back. :-) > > jim > > Fat-thumbed from my iPhone7 > >> On Jan 13, 2017, at 9:12 AM, Joe Alexander via Fot wrote: >> >> Thanks Dean Tetterton, >> >> I get a big kick out of the Shelby Cobras using the head lamp replacements by ARE. But then, I am easily entertained. They are at Barrett Jackson now, if anyone happens to be going. Henry Ford III and Shelby's grandson are making a formal announcement on resumed production of Cobras next Thursday. >> >> Pegasus has the head lamp replacements at a very good price. Some have been confused by the pricing as "each", but the price is really for a pair. Or you can get them from me. After this production run, my material cost is going up by 25%, so now is the time...... >> >> Think Kastner Cup......there is something very magical happening with this event. Due to the diligence and attention to detail of Brian Garcia and Jason Ostrowski, this will be a peak experience. VSCDA is likely the best Sanctioning Body in North America and Black Hawk Farms is amazing for our cars and is very user friendly. >> >> >> >> Regards, >> >> Joe Alexander >> 645 1st Street >> Jesup, IA 50648 >> The-vintage-racer.com >> Gasketinnovations.com >> Cell: 319.464.4711 >> >>> On Jan 13, 2017, at 7:43 AM, Dean Tetterton wrote: >>> >>> WOW to think I use the same headlight covers as a Cobra. That has got to make >>> my TR4 faster?. >>> Sean??.Watch for those yellow flames in your mirror at the Kastner Cup. >>> >>> Dean T. >>> >>> >>>> On Jan 12, 2017, at 8:19 PM, Joe Alexander via Fot wrote: >>>> >>>> We supply to several distributors, so I suspect that you will get ours in most cases. >>>> >>>> I think BFE is coming on board, shortly. >>>> >>>> Charly Mitchell, too. >>>> >>>> There was talk of weight reduction, too. Aluminum is about 1/3 the weight and we manufacture several front and rear engine plates. >>>> >>>> Finally, we are now a supplier to Carroll Shelby International. They are using our light weight spun aluminum head lamp replacement on their racing version of the "continuation of build Cobras". These are painted black for showing at Barrett Jackson. Not a big profit center, but fun stuff for these Iowa Boyz. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Joe Alexander >>>> 645 1st Street >>>> Jesup, IA 50648 >>>> The-vintage-racer.com >>>> Gasketinnovations.com >>>> Cell: 319.464.4711 >>>> >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhassall at gmail.com >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image1.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 153242 bytes Desc: not available URL: From igofaster at att.net Fri Jan 13 11:00:20 2017 From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead) Date: Fri, 13 Jan 2017 18:00:20 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] new member nomination References: <2011487149.1820284.1484330420372.ref@mail.yahoo.com> I'd like to nominate Paul Rolenz to the forum...owns a nice TR250 ! Prolenz9 at gmail.com .... Bobby WhiteheadJesters Racing -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From william.tobin31 at verizon.net Fri Jan 13 11:34:24 2017 From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin) Date: Fri, 13 Jan 2017 13:34:24 -0500 Subject: [Fot] new member nomination References: <2011487149.1820284.1484330420372.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <2011487149.1820284.1484330420372@mail.yahoo.com> I'll give a second. Welcome to the organization Paul. Cheers, Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: Bobby Whitehead via Fot To: FOT Triumph Sent: Friday, January 13, 2017 1:00 PM Subject: [Fot] new member nomination I'd like to nominate Paul Rolenz to the forum...owns a nice TR250 ! Prolenz9 at gmail.com .... Bobby Whitehead Jesters Racing ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From joealexandervintage at gmail.com Fri Jan 13 14:11:15 2017 From: joealexandervintage at gmail.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Fri, 13 Jan 2017 15:11:15 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Sponsorship to FOT. Brendan Alexander FOT: Allow me to present Brendan.tr4197 at gmail.com Please welcome Brendan. Brendan is part of the ARE Team. Driver's School is planned for Spring. Brendan should be ready for the Kastner Cup in June. Being the third generation in a family representing the FOT maybe a first. Regards, Joe Alexander 645 1st Street Jesup, IA 50648 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711 From pcdelux at verizon.net Fri Jan 13 16:09:23 2017 From: pcdelux at verizon.net (pcdelux at verizon.net) Date: Fri, 13 Jan 2017 17:09:23 -0600 (CST) Subject: [Fot] Sponsorship to FOT. Brendan Alexander An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From william.tobin31 at verizon.net Fri Jan 13 16:23:58 2017 From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin) Date: Fri, 13 Jan 2017 18:23:58 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Sponsorship to FOT. Brendan Alexander References: <20206D0F-C440-4860-8E55-6F80C2EAEFB2@gmail.com> Welcome Brenden! Must come from good stock! Like the saying goes, "Pick your parents well" Cheers, Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Alexander via Fot" To: Cc: "Brendan Alexander" Sent: Friday, January 13, 2017 4:11 PM Subject: [Fot] Sponsorship to FOT. Brendan Alexander > FOT: > > Allow me to present Brendan.tr4197 at gmail.com > > Please welcome Brendan. Brendan is part of the ARE Team. > > Driver's School is planned for Spring. > > Brendan should be ready for the Kastner Cup in June. > > Being the third generation in a family representing the FOT maybe a first. > > Regards, > > Joe Alexander > 645 1st Street > Jesup, IA 50648 > The-vintage-racer.com > Gasketinnovations.com > Cell: 319.464.4711 > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net > > From jason at multivintage.com Fri Jan 13 21:45:12 2017 From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski) Date: Fri, 13 Jan 2017 22:45:12 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Sponsorship to FOT. Brendan Alexander References: <20206D0F-C440-4860-8E55-6F80C2EAEFB2@gmail.com> 2nd indeed! Brendan is a class act. An obvious racer's Spawn. A gentleman, a friend, and a real fellow of our Team. He emulates the qualities of the Triumph greats. Helped us many times in quick thinking moments of need on the Grid and in the paddock. Not to take anything away from the rest of the ARE Guys... as we love them all. But, He is probably my favorite. A+, Welcome Pal. As I've Told you before...There's always a spot available for you with Friendly Ghost Racing (Keep that in mind if things with ARE don't work out) Jason Ostrowski Friendly Ghost Racing 1969 Triumph GT6+ Racecars On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 3:11 PM, Joe Alexander via Fot wrote: > FOT: > > Allow me to present Brendan.tr4197 at gmail.com > > Please welcome Brendan. Brendan is part of the ARE Team. > > Driver's School is planned for Spring. > > Brendan should be ready for the Kastner Cup in June. > > Being the third generation in a family representing the FOT maybe a first. > > Regards, > > Joe Alexander > 645 1st Street > Jesup, IA 50648 > The-vintage-racer.com > Gasketinnovations.com > Cell: 319.464.4711 > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason@ > multivintage.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sjanzen at me.com Sat Jan 14 08:33:55 2017 From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2017 10:33:55 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR4 auction on bring a trailer concluded Anybody know who the winning bidder triumphsix is? Hope he's an FOT member. http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1962-triumph-tr4/ Sent from my iPhone -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tony at tonydrews.com Sat Jan 14 09:59:07 2017 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2017 10:59:07 -0600 Subject: [Fot] TR4 auction on bring a trailer concluded References: <88A80128-0069-4707-A74E-9AFEC0D5AE63@me.com> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From yellow04 at tr4racer.com Sat Jan 14 15:03:30 2017 From: yellow04 at tr4racer.com (Yellow04) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2017 17:03:30 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR4 auction on bring a trailer concluded An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- Not sure who it was that told the story about selling the Morgans on BaT, but this auction went exactly as he described. Congrats to Carl, well done. Gives me some faith all these old cars I am surrounded by still have some value! ________________________________ From: Tony Drews via Fot Sent: Jan 14, 2017 12:51 PM To: Scott Janzen; 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 auction on bring a trailer concluded Last comment from Triumphsix says "Staying in New England Region - NH".? Glad to see it brought a halfway decent price, I saw it languishing in the low thousands a few days ago. Regards, Tony At 09:33 AM 1/14/2017, Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: Anybody know who the winning bidder triumphsix is?? Hope he's an FOT member. http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1962-triumph-tr4/ Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com From duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com Sat Jan 14 18:19:16 2017 From: duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com (Duncan Charlton) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2017 19:19:16 -0600 Subject: [Fot] TR4 auction on bring a trailer concluded References: <126f4e7f-a444-4cd2-9693-26c01ca5307c@tr4racer.com> That was me ? I found it to be a good experience. Duncan Charlton Elgin, Texas USA > On Jan 14, 2017, at 4:03 PM, Yellow04 via Fot wrote: > > Not sure who it was that told the story about selling the Morgans on BaT, but this auction went exactly as he described. Congrats to Carl, well done. > > Gives me some faith all these old cars I am surrounded by still have some value! > > ________________________________ > From: Tony Drews via Fot > Sent: Jan 14, 2017 12:51 PM > To: Scott Janzen; 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph > Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 auction on bring a trailer concluded > > Last comment from Triumphsix says "Staying in New England Region - NH". Glad to see it brought a halfway decent price, I saw it languishing in the low thousands a few days ago. > > Regards, Tony > > At 09:33 AM 1/14/2017, Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: > Anybody know who the winning bidder triumphsix is? Hope he's an FOT member. > http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1962-triumph-tr4/ > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com > > From jhassall at gmail.com Sat Jan 14 19:39:54 2017 From: jhassall at gmail.com (J.C. Hassall) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2017 21:39:54 -0500 Subject: [Fot] GT6 frame transport from Austin TX to VA Amci, I have a lead on a GT6 frame in Austin which I need transported to VA (or close). Is there anyone who might be traveling that route with some empty space? TIA jim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From list at mackenzie.aero Sun Jan 15 09:32:07 2017 From: list at mackenzie.aero (Robert MacKenzie) Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2017 10:32:07 -0600 Subject: [Fot] 1147 A7 Cam? Are these the correct specs for the Kastner A7 cam for a Spitfire 1147? > - Inlet opens 42 Inlet Closes 76 > - Exhaust opens 76 Exhaust close 42 > - Duration 293 Lift at valve .410 > - Checking clearance at the camshaft is .013 > - Rocker arm clearance is .020 Robert MacKenzie -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From list at mackenzie.aero Sun Jan 15 10:08:55 2017 From: list at mackenzie.aero (Robert MacKenzie) Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2017 11:08:55 -0600 Subject: [Fot] TR4 auction on bring a trailer concluded References: <126f4e7f-a444-4cd2-9693-26c01ca5307c@tr4racer.com> <0F398606-AFCD-4314-8202-BF1A22BF5F50@gmail.com> I have sold two cars on BAT this year and had a very positive experience both times. Robert MacKenzie -----Original Message----- From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Duncan Charlton via Fot Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2017 7:19 PM To: Yellow04 Cc: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 auction on bring a trailer concluded That was me ? I found it to be a good experience. Duncan Charlton Elgin, Texas USA > On Jan 14, 2017, at 4:03 PM, Yellow04 via Fot wrote: > > Not sure who it was that told the story about selling the Morgans on BaT, but this auction went exactly as he described. Congrats to Carl, well done. > > Gives me some faith all these old cars I am surrounded by still have some value! > > ________________________________ > From: Tony Drews via Fot > Sent: Jan 14, 2017 12:51 PM > To: Scott Janzen; 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph > Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 auction on bring a trailer concluded > > Last comment from Triumphsix says "Staying in New England Region - NH". Glad to see it brought a halfway decent price, I saw it languishing in the low thousands a few days ago. > > Regards, Tony > > At 09:33 AM 1/14/2017, Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: > Anybody know who the winning bidder triumphsix is? Hope he's an FOT member. > http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1962-triumph-tr4/ > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com > > _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From joealexandervintage at gmail.com Sun Jan 15 11:43:18 2017 From: joealexandervintage at gmail.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2017 12:43:18 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Spring Mountain. VARA event. Who is going to be there? FOT: Plan to be at Spring Mountain the weekend of the 18th. Anyone else? Kent Howard and I were there a few years ago and enjoyed it. Not bringing a car, tho. If you get bored, you can always go to the Moon Light Bunny Ranch. Joe Alexander 645 1st Street Jesup, IA 50648 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711 From triumphs at triumphrescue.com Mon Jan 16 11:27:59 2017 From: triumphs at triumphrescue.com (Matt Bakes) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2017 13:27:59 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Rich Rock Sorry to bomb the list but I need to get a message to Rich, Rich could you call the shop please. Matt Triumph Rescue 617 Walnut St. Bally, Pa. 19503 610-845-8217 www.triumphrescue.com British Wiring 617 Walnut St. P.O. Box 185 Bally, Pa. 19503 www.BritishWiring.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jaboruch at netzero.net Tue Jan 17 10:47:42 2017 From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch) Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2017 17:47:42 GMT Subject: [Fot] TR3/4 Rear Main Seal The recent discussion of the valve cover gasket reminded me to ask about TR3/4 rear main seals. I know that the new improved seals are make to fit cranks that the scroll surface has not been machined. All my cranks have been machined to fit the earlier seal kits. Is there an upgraded seal kit to fit machined cranks or would there even be any advantage to using the new seal? ____________________________________________________________ 7 Times Lotto Winner Reveals What You're Missing when Buying MNT http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/587e590e6b1a590d3060st02duc -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From deweerdm at rogers.com Tue Jan 17 13:50:44 2017 From: deweerdm at rogers.com (Mike Deweerd) Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2017 15:50:44 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Engine mounts Does anyone make a heavy duty engine mount for the TR4 ? I tore a brand new apart even with the torque snubber plates I have the A R E rear polyurethane mount so does anyone make front mounts? Thanks Mike Deweerd Sent from my iPhone From tony at tonydrews.com Tue Jan 17 22:08:52 2017 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2017 23:08:52 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Engine mounts References: I bought some from Cambridge England a number of years ago. Shipping was almost as much as the parts. Bought 4, put 2 in my car and ended up selling the other two to a racing buddy. Have had them in the car for probably 10 years. Tore up the normal ones. Got rid of the tilton clutch, that may have helped some (I can now more gently engage the clutch), but I think the motor mounts were the real fix. Probably comes from something else like a Rover v8. I've not seen them domestically but recall some conversation semi-recently about that - maybe a Moss ad. Regards, Tony D At 02:50 PM 1/17/2017, Mike Deweerd via Fot wrote: >Does anyone make a heavy duty engine mount for the TR4 ? >I tore a brand new apart even with the torque snubber plates >I have the A R E rear polyurethane mount so does anyone make front mounts? >Thanks >Mike Deweerd > >Sent from my iPhone >_______________________________________________ >fot at autox.team.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com From fasttrs at yahoo.com Wed Jan 18 08:15:33 2017 From: fasttrs at yahoo.com (Mike Munson) Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2017 09:15:33 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Tr6 billet Crank After talking with Kowi about what would be involved in having him make some TR6 cranks I have decided to go with the Wishbone Classics crank. He has already done the development work so why reinvent the wheel? Kai is offering a preorder discount and is ready to make another batch. Let me know if you are interested. Mike Munson #28 EP TR6 From cmstenquist at gmail.com Wed Jan 18 17:09:00 2017 From: cmstenquist at gmail.com (carl stenquist) Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2017 19:09:00 -0500 Subject: [Fot] new member FOT I would like to nominate Dave Gott as a new member of the group. Dave just bought my TR4 so he can race against his Dad, Phil Gott, who raced against the car back in the day, and has recently started vintage racing his TR4 . triumphsix at yahoo.com Carl Stenquist -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From joealexandervintage at gmail.com Wed Jan 18 18:25:12 2017 From: joealexandervintage at gmail.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2017 19:25:12 -0600 Subject: [Fot] new member References: Dave Gott, yes! Maybe you should add Joanna Ellis to this nomination. Long time TR4 Racer on the east coast. Known by her email as "trgranny at me.com" Oh yes, that's Dave's mom. What say ye? Joe Alexander 645 1st Street Jesup, IA 50648 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711 > On Jan 18, 2017, at 6:09 PM, carl stenquist via Fot wrote: > > FOT > I would like to nominate Dave Gott as a new member of the group. Dave just bought my TR4 so he can race against his Dad, Phil Gott, who raced against the car back in the day, and has recently started vintage racing his TR4 . > > triumphsix at yahoo.com > > Carl Stenquist > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/joe at the-vintage-racer.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au Wed Jan 18 19:42:13 2017 From: enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au (Enquiries Road & Track) Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2017 12:42:13 +1000 Subject: [Fot] Kastner cup at Blackhawk raceway can someone direct me to an organiser or otherwise confirm this event is still on for June 16-18. I was just about to book flights to USA for work, and my holiday into northern USA therafter, but then someone that should be "in the know" , has emailed suggesting there are some doubts over it. i've spent months juggling work dates to sort-of co-incide, so i hope its still on!! thanks Terry O'Beirne Australia -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From robertten1 at aol.com Wed Jan 18 20:10:05 2017 From: robertten1 at aol.com (robertten1 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2017 22:10:05 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Engine mounts The Roadster Factory ?? Maybe, Bob T -----Original Message----- From: Tony Drews via Fot To: Mike Deweerd ; Aaron Johnson via Fot Sent: Wed, Jan 18, 2017 4:46 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] Engine mounts I bought some from Cambridge England a number of years ago. Shipping was almost as much as the parts. Bought 4, put 2 in my car and ended up selling the other two to a racing buddy. Have had them in the car for probably 10 years. Tore up the normal ones. Got rid of the tilton clutch, that may have helped some (I can now more gently engage the clutch), but I think the motor mounts were the real fix. Probably comes from something else like a Rover v8. I've not seen them domestically but recall some conversation semi-recently about that - maybe a Moss ad. Regards, Tony D At 02:50 PM 1/17/2017, Mike Deweerd via Fot wrote: >Does anyone make a heavy duty engine mount for the TR4 ? >I tore a brand new apart even with the torque snubber plates >I have the A R E rear polyurethane mount so does anyone make front mounts? >Thanks >Mike Deweerd > >Sent from my iPhone >_______________________________________________ >fot at autox.team.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cudapilot at comcast.net Wed Jan 18 20:49:17 2017 From: cudapilot at comcast.net (Brian Garcia) Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2017 21:49:17 -0600 (CST) Subject: [Fot] Kastner cup at Blackhawk raceway References: Amici- I hope everyone enjoyed their holidays. I apologize that things have been a little quiet for a bit but plans still moving forward full speed for the 2017 Kastner Cup at Blackhawk Farms raceway June 16-18. I have been working closely with VSCDA and we are very close to having a preliminary schedule prepared. Registration for the event is scheduled to open in early February. I will alert the list as soon as online registration goes live. Again, we will have our own run group for Practice, Qualifying, and Sprint Races as well as the Kastner Cup itself. The Kastner Cup race will take place toward the end of the day on Saturday. FOT will have a large area of the paddock set aside for racers and guests alike. There will be plenty of room in the Triumph Car Corral for everyone that comes out to support the event. The hub of FOT activity will be a large tent that will house our guests of honor, the Kastners, as well as a FOT hospitality area that you will definitely want to check out. There will be room in this tent to paddock four or five cars if anyone is interested in a sheltered spot. To help offset the costs of the event, we are offering these covered spots with power for $100. All of this money goes to the event fund. Please contact me if you are interested. Also, several FOT members have sent donations to help with the event costs - your generosity is so appreciated and thanks for helping us get closer to realizing our goals. I can't tell you how excited I am to host all of you and, finally, to be able to compete in the Kastner Cup. 148 days and counting - it will be here before you know it. I'll be sending updates to the list as well as updating the Kastner Cup Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/2017-Kastner-Cup-412465015590721/ You can also contact me any time at cudapilot at comcast.net mailto:cudapilot at comcast.net or 847-452-2246. Best regards, Brian Garcia Friendly Ghost Racing -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tony at tonydrews.com Wed Jan 18 21:48:47 2017 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2017 22:48:47 -0600 Subject: [Fot] new member References: <10AB2E6C-261F-4D1F-8FF7-F504012C4A02@gmail.com> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tony at tonydrews.com Wed Jan 18 21:57:12 2017 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2017 22:57:12 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Kastner cup at Blackhawk raceway mail.com> References: In addition to Brian's message - the organizer is VSCDA here: https://vscda.org/ The event is listed on the schedule but hasn't been fleshed out with full description yet. I know the club is excited to have us there. They go out of their way to make a pleasant environment. Regards, Tony Drews At 08:42 PM 1/18/2017, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: >can someone direct me to an organiser or >otherwise confirm this event is still on for June 16-18.? > >I was just about to book flights to USA for >work, and my holiday into northern USA >therafter, but then someone ? that should be "in >the know" , has emailed suggesting there are some doubts over it. > >i've spent months juggling work dates to sort-of >co-incide, so i hope its still on!! > >thanks >Terry O'Beirne >Australia > > >_______________________________________________ >fot at autox.team.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com From hakhutch at roadrunner.com Thu Jan 19 04:41:02 2017 From: hakhutch at roadrunner.com (Tim Hutchisen) Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2017 06:41:02 -0500 Subject: [Fot] new member References: <10AB2E6C-261F-4D1F-8FF7-F504012C4A02@gmail.com> I met Joanna this past summer, she is a fellow "Mainah" and the real deal. A fierce competitor and recently scored well in the VTR auto-X in Texas last fall. A definate second to the nomination. That would mean another third generation family to the FOT list??????. Tim Hutchisen Norway, ME Penn Ridge Motors From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Alexander via Fot Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2017 8:25 PM To: carl stenquist ; fot at autox.team.net Cc: trgranny at me.com Subject: Re: [Fot] new member Dave Gott, yes! Maybe you should add Joanna Ellis to this nomination. Long time TR4 Racer on the east coast. Known by her email as Oh yes, that's Dave's mom. What say ye? Joe Alexander 645 1st Street Jesup, IA 50648 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711 FOT I would like to nominate Dave Gott as a new member of the group. Dave just bought my TR4 so he can race against his Dad, Phil Gott, who raced against the car back in the day, and has recently started vintage racing his TR4 . Carl Stenquist _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From joealexandervintage at gmail.com Thu Jan 19 05:55:03 2017 From: joealexandervintage at gmail.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2017 06:55:03 -0600 Subject: [Fot] new member References: <10AB2E6C-261F-4D1F-8FF7-F504012C4A02@gmail.com> <00e601d27248$e9e90520$bdbb0f60$@roadrunner.com> ? Joe Alexander 645 1st Street Jesup, IA 50648 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711 > On Jan 19, 2017, at 5:41 AM, Tim Hutchisen via Fot wrote: > > I met Joanna this past summer, she is a fellow "Mainah" and the real deal. A fierce competitor and recently scored well in the VTR auto-X in Texas last fall. A definate second to the nomination. That would mean another third generation family to the FOT list??????. > Tim Hutchisen > Norway, ME > Penn Ridge Motors > > From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Alexander via Fot > Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2017 8:25 PM > To: carl stenquist ; fot at autox.team.net > Cc: trgranny at me.com > Subject: Re: [Fot] new member > > Dave Gott, yes! > > Maybe you should add Joanna Ellis to this nomination. > > Long time TR4 Racer on the east coast. Known by her email as > > "trgranny at me.com" > > Oh yes, that's Dave's mom. > > What say ye? > > > > Joe Alexander > 645 1st Street > Jesup, IA 50648 > The-vintage-racer.com > Gasketinnovations.com > Cell: 319.464.4711 > > On Jan 18, 2017, at 6:09 PM, carl stenquist via Fot wrote: > > FOT > I would like to nominate Dave Gott as a new member of the group. Dave just bought my TR4 so he can race against his Dad, Phil Gott, who raced against the car back in the day, and has recently started vintage racing his TR4 . > > triumphsix at yahoo.com > > Carl Stenquist > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/joe at the-vintage-racer.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/joe at the-vintage-racer.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From stocktontr4 at gmail.com Thu Jan 19 06:22:21 2017 From: stocktontr4 at gmail.com (Dick Stockton) Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2017 11:22:21 -0200 Subject: [Fot] Mounts I use round with studs no trouble. snubber should be on driver side.Dick -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cmstenquist at gmail.com Thu Jan 19 08:35:37 2017 From: cmstenquist at gmail.com (carl stenquist) Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2017 10:35:37 -0500 Subject: [Fot] nomination I would like to nominate Phil Gott, Dave's father, another TR4 racer! VFRacing at aol.com Thank to all... Carl Stenquist -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tony at tonydrews.com Thu Jan 19 11:34:10 2017 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2017 12:34:10 -0600 Subject: [Fot] nomination mail.com> References: An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rek46 at aol.com Thu Jan 19 14:41:34 2017 From: rek46 at aol.com (=?utf-8?B?cmVrNDZAYW9sLmNvbQ==?=) Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2017 16:41:34 -0500 Subject: [Fot] =?utf-8?q?Kastner_cup_at_Blackhawk_raceway?= Can I run with my current SCCA Spitfire. F/P car ? Sent from my HTC on the Now Network from Sprint! ----- Reply message ----- From: "Brian Garcia via Fot" Date: Wed, Jan 18, 2017 10:49 pm Subject: [Fot] Kastner cup at Blackhawk raceway To: "Enquiries Road & Track" , "Enquiries Road & Track via Fot" -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jason at multivintage.com Thu Jan 19 16:44:56 2017 From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski) Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2017 17:44:56 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Kastner cup at Blackhawk raceway References: <20170119225108.7394C2587BAA@autox.team.net> Typically it is ok to run a SCCA car at the Kastner cup Weekend. But not on slicks. You will need to run DoT tires that are allowed by the Sanctioning body. They are usually pretty set on not having slicks in the Production car Groups. And Historically Cars with more current equipment etc. May not be eligible to win the Kastner Cup. But That Is UP To Kas Kastner and his selection process for the Cup criteria. However, that has not stopped some front runners like Mike Munsen and Sam Halkias from kicking some but for the overall win in years past. We will do our best to try to accommodate every type of Triumph in any case. Just communicate early and disclose any questionable mods in conflict of the Typical Vintage Guidelines... and we will try our best to communicate in your favor with the sanctioning body. Thanks Jason Ostrowski Friendly Ghost Racing 1969 Triumph GT6+ Racecars On Thu, Jan 19, 2017 at 3:41 PM, rek46 at aol.com via Fot wrote: > Can I run with my current SCCA Spitfire. F/P car ? > > Sent from my HTC on the Now Network from Sprint! > > > ----- Reply message ----- > From: "Brian Garcia via Fot" > Date: Wed, Jan 18, 2017 10:49 pm > Subject: [Fot] Kastner cup at Blackhawk raceway > To: "Enquiries Road & Track" , "Enquiries > Road & Track via Fot" > > Amici- > > > I hope everyone enjoyed their holidays. I apologize that things have been > a little quiet for a bit but plans still moving forward full speed for the > 2017 Kastner Cup at Blackhawk Farms raceway June 16-18. I have been > working closely with VSCDA and we are very close to having a preliminary > schedule prepared. Registration for the event is scheduled to open in > early February. I will alert the list as soon as online registration goes > live. Again, we will have our own run group for Practice, Qualifying, and > Sprint Races as well as the Kastner Cup itself. The Kastner Cup race will > take place toward the end of the day on Saturday. > > > FOT will have a large area of the paddock set aside for racers and guests > alike. There will be plenty of room in the Triumph Car Corral for everyone > that comes out to support the event. The hub of FOT activity will be a > large tent that will house our guests of honor, the Kastners, as well as a > FOT hospitality area that you will definitely want to check out. There > will be room in this tent to paddock four or five cars if anyone is > interested in a sheltered spot. To help offset the costs of the event, we > are offering these covered spots with power for $100. All of this money > goes to the event fund. Please contact me if you are interested. Also, > several FOT members have sent donations to help with the event costs - your > generosity is so appreciated and thanks for helping us get closer to > realizing our goals. > > > I can't tell you how excited I am to host all of you and, finally, to be > able to compete in the Kastner Cup. 148 days and counting - it will be > here before you know it. > > > I'll be sending updates to the list as well as updating the Kastner Cup > Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/2017-Kastner-Cup- > 412465015590721/ You can also contact me any time at > cudapilot at comcast.net or 847-452-2246 <(847)%20452-2246>. > > > Best regards, > > > Brian Garcia > > Friendly Ghost Racing > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason@ > multivintage.com > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ponobill at gmail.com Thu Jan 19 19:50:18 2017 From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill) Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2017 18:50:18 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Kastner cup at Blackhawk raceway References: <20170119225108.7394C2587BAA@autox.team.net> So what else is going on in the vicinity for the weekend before or after? > On Jan 19, 2017, at 3:44 PM, Jason Ostrowski via Fot wrote: > > Typically it is ok to run a SCCA car at the Kastner cup Weekend. But not on slicks. > You will need to run DoT tires that are allowed by the Sanctioning body. They are usually pretty set on not having slicks in the Production car Groups. > And Historically Cars with more current equipment etc. May not be eligible to win the Kastner Cup. > But That Is UP To Kas Kastner and his selection process for the Cup criteria. > However, that has not stopped some front runners like Mike Munsen and Sam Halkias from kicking some but for the overall win in years past. > We will do our best to try to accommodate every type of Triumph in any case. > Just communicate early and disclose any questionable mods in conflict of the Typical Vintage Guidelines... and we will try our best to communicate in your favor with the sanctioning body. > Thanks > Jason Ostrowski > Friendly Ghost Racing > 1969 Triumph GT6+ Racecars > > Can I run with my current SCCA Spitfire. F/P car ? > > Sent from my HTC on the Now Network from Sprint! > > > ----- Reply message ----- > Date: Wed, Jan 18, 2017 10:49 pm > Subject: [Fot] Kastner cup at Blackhawk raceway > > Amici- > > > > I hope everyone enjoyed their holidays. I apologize that things have been a little quiet for a bit but plans still moving forward full speed for the 2017 Kastner Cup at Blackhawk Farms raceway June 16-18. I have been working closely with VSCDA and we are very close to having a preliminary schedule prepared. Registration for the event is scheduled to open in early February. I will alert the list as soon as online registration goes live. Again, we will have our own run group for Practice, Qualifying, and Sprint Races as well as the Kastner Cup itself. The Kastner Cup race will take place toward the end of the day on Saturday. > > > > FOT will have a large area of the paddock set aside for racers and guests alike. There will be plenty of room in the Triumph Car Corral for everyone that comes out to support the event. The hub of FOT activity will be a large tent that will house our guests of honor, the Kastners, as well as a FOT hospitality area that you will definitely want to check out. There will be room in this tent to paddock four or five cars if anyone is interested in a sheltered spot. To help offset the costs of the event, we are offering these covered spots with power for $100. All of this money goes to the event fund. Please contact me if you are interested. Also, several FOT members have sent donations to help with the event costs - your generosity is so appreciated and thanks for helping us get closer to realizing our goals. > > > > I can't tell you how excited I am to host all of you and, finally, to be able to compete in the Kastner Cup. 148 days and counting - it will be here before you know it. > > > > > > > Best regards, > > > > Brian Garcia > > Friendly Ghost Racing > > > _______________________________________________ > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bill at ponostyle.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cudapilot at comcast.net Fri Jan 20 08:53:58 2017 From: cudapilot at comcast.net (Brian Garcia) Date: Fri, 20 Jan 2017 09:53:58 -0600 (CST) Subject: [Fot] Kastner cup at Blackhawk raceway References: <20170119225108.7394C2587BAA@autox.team.net> <7C00F5D9-D2EE-4D87-8270-0FF9C0C44230@ponostyle.com> The weekend before SVRA is having a Vintage open wheel festival at IMS. A few days after the Cup, the Triumph Register of America is having their National meet in Indiana. That same weekend, SVRA is running Mid Ohio. Is Peyote coming to the Cup? > On January 19, 2017 at 8:50 PM Bill via Fot wrote: > > So what else is going on in the vicinity for the weekend before or after? > > > > > > On Jan 19, 2017, at 3:44 PM, Jason Ostrowski via Fot wrote: > > > > Typically it is ok to run a SCCA car at the Kastner cup Weekend. But not on slicks. > > You will need to run DoT tires that are allowed by the Sanctioning body. They are usually pretty set on not having slicks in the Production car Groups. > > And Historically Cars with more current equipment etc. May not be eligible to win the Kastner Cup. > > But That Is UP To Kas Kastner and his selection process for the Cup criteria. > > However, that has not stopped some front runners like Mike Munsen and Sam Halkias from kicking some but for the overall win in years past. > > We will do our best to try to accommodate every type of Triumph in any case. > > Just communicate early and disclose any questionable mods in conflict of the Typical Vintage Guidelines... and we will try our best to communicate in your favor with the sanctioning body. > > Thanks > > Jason Ostrowski > > Friendly Ghost Racing > > 1969 Triumph GT6+ Racecars > > > > On Thu, Jan 19, 2017 at 3:41 PM, rek46 at aol.com mailto:rek46 at aol.com via Fot wrote: > > > > > > > Can I run with my current SCCA Spitfire. F/P car ? > > > > > > Sent from my HTC on the Now Network from Sprint! > > > > > > > > > ----- Reply message ----- > > > From: "Brian Garcia via Fot" > > > Date: Wed, Jan 18, 2017 10:49 pm > > > Subject: [Fot] Kastner cup at Blackhawk raceway > > > To: "Enquiries Road & Track" , "Enquiries Road & Track via Fot" > > > > > > > > > Amici- > > > > > > > > > I hope everyone enjoyed their holidays. I apologize that things have been a little quiet for a bit but plans still moving forward full speed for the 2017 Kastner Cup at Blackhawk Farms raceway June 16-18. I have been working closely with VSCDA and we are very close to having a preliminary schedule prepared. Registration for the event is scheduled to open in early February. I will alert the list as soon as online registration goes live. Again, we will have our own run group for Practice, Qualifying, and Sprint Races as well as the Kastner Cup itself. The Kastner Cup race will take place toward the end of the day on Saturday. > > > > > > > > > FOT will have a large area of the paddock set aside for racers and guests alike. There will be plenty of room in the Triumph Car Corral for everyone that comes out to support the event. The hub of FOT activity will be a large tent that will house our guests of honor, the Kastners, as well as a FOT hospitality area that you will definitely want to check out. There will be room in this tent to paddock four or five cars if anyone is interested in a sheltered spot. To help offset the costs of the event, we are offering these covered spots with power for $100. All of this money goes to the event fund. Please contact me if you are interested. Also, several FOT members have sent donations to help with the event costs - your generosity is so appreciated and thanks for helping us get closer to realizing our goals. > > > > > > > > > I can't tell you how excited I am to host all of you and, finally, to be able to compete in the Kastner Cup. 148 days and counting - it will be here before you know it. > > > > > > > > > I'll be sending updates to the list as well as updating the Kastner Cup Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/2017-Kastner-Cup-412465015590721/ https://www.facebook.com/2017-Kastner-Cup-412465015590721/ You can also contact me any time at cudapilot at comcast.net mailto:cudapilot at comcast.net or 847-452-2246. > > > > > > > > > Best regards, > > > > > > > > > Brian Garcia > > > > > > Friendly Ghost Racing > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > fot at autox.team.net mailto:fot at autox.team.net > > > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com/ > > > > > > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net mailto:fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bill at ponostyle.com > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/cudapilot at comcast.net > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jason at multivintage.com Fri Jan 20 09:29:04 2017 From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski) Date: Fri, 20 Jan 2017 10:29:04 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Kastner cup at Blackhawk raceway References: <20170119225108.7394C2587BAA@autox.team.net> <7C00F5D9-D2EE-4D87-8270-0FF9C0C44230@ponostyle.com> Bill, I think your best bet would be to do the Kastner Cup June 16-18 (VSCDA) and then do the Vintage Grand Prix of Mid-Ohio (SVRA) the following weekend. That gives you two great road courses in 2 consecutive weekends with perhaps a nice midweek paddle boarding excursion on one of our "Great Lakes". I'm really exited that you are bringing peyote to race at Blackhawk Farms! Jason Ostrowski Friendly Ghost Racing 1969 Triumph GT6+ race cars Sent from my iPhone > On Jan 19, 2017, at 8:50 PM, Bill wrote: > > So what else is going on in the vicinity for the weekend before or after? > > >> On Jan 19, 2017, at 3:44 PM, Jason Ostrowski via Fot wrote: >> >> Typically it is ok to run a SCCA car at the Kastner cup Weekend. But not on slicks. >> You will need to run DoT tires that are allowed by the Sanctioning body. They are usually pretty set on not having slicks in the Production car Groups. >> And Historically Cars with more current equipment etc. May not be eligible to win the Kastner Cup. >> But That Is UP To Kas Kastner and his selection process for the Cup criteria. >> However, that has not stopped some front runners like Mike Munsen and Sam Halkias from kicking some but for the overall win in years past. >> We will do our best to try to accommodate every type of Triumph in any case. >> Just communicate early and disclose any questionable mods in conflict of the Typical Vintage Guidelines... and we will try our best to communicate in your favor with the sanctioning body. >> Thanks >> Jason Ostrowski >> Friendly Ghost Racing >> 1969 Triumph GT6+ Racecars >> >>> On Thu, Jan 19, 2017 at 3:41 PM, rek46 at aol.com via Fot wrote: >>> Can I run with my current SCCA Spitfire. F/P car ? >>> >>> Sent from my HTC on the Now Network from Sprint! >>> >>> >>> ----- Reply message ----- >>> From: "Brian Garcia via Fot" >>> Date: Wed, Jan 18, 2017 10:49 pm >>> Subject: [Fot] Kastner cup at Blackhawk raceway >>> To: "Enquiries Road & Track" , "Enquiries Road & Track via Fot" >>> >>> Amici- >>> >>> >>> >>> I hope everyone enjoyed their holidays. I apologize that things have been a little quiet for a bit but plans still moving forward full speed for the 2017 Kastner Cup at Blackhawk Farms raceway June 16-18. I have been working closely with VSCDA and we are very close to having a preliminary schedule prepared. Registration for the event is scheduled to open in early February. I will alert the list as soon as online registration goes live. Again, we will have our own run group for Practice, Qualifying, and Sprint Races as well as the Kastner Cup itself. The Kastner Cup race will take place toward the end of the day on Saturday. >>> >>> >>> >>> FOT will have a large area of the paddock set aside for racers and guests alike. There will be plenty of room in the Triumph Car Corral for everyone that comes out to support the event. The hub of FOT activity will be a large tent that will house our guests of honor, the Kastners, as well as a FOT hospitality area that you will definitely want to check out. There will be room in this tent to paddock four or five cars if anyone is interested in a sheltered spot. To help offset the costs of the event, we are offering these covered spots with power for $100. All of this money goes to the event fund. Please contact me if you are interested. Also, several FOT members have sent donations to help with the event costs - your generosity is so appreciated and thanks for helping us get closer to realizing our goals. >>> >>> >>> >>> I can't tell you how excited I am to host all of you and, finally, to be able to compete in the Kastner Cup. 148 days and counting - it will be here before you know it. >>> >>> >>> >>> I'll be sending updates to the list as well as updating the Kastner Cup Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/2017-Kastner-Cup-412465015590721/ You can also contact me any time at cudapilot at comcast.net or 847-452-2246. >>> >>> >>> >>> Best regards, >>> >>> >>> >>> Brian Garcia >>> >>> Friendly Ghost Racing >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bill at ponostyle.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jaboruch at netzero.net Fri Jan 20 17:57:48 2017 From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch) Date: Sat, 21 Jan 2017 00:57:48 GMT Subject: [Fot] TR3/4 Rear Main Seal Not sure if this went thru before, since I did not receive it in my inbox and did not receive any replies. Sorry for the duplication, if it went out previously. The recent discussion of the valve cover gasket reminded me to ask about TR3/4 rear main seals. I know that the new improved Viton seals are make to fit cranks that the scroll surface has not been machined. All my cranks have been machined to fit the earlier seal kits. Is there an upgraded seal kit to fit machined cranks or would there even be any advantage to using the new seal? Joe(B) ____________________________________________________________ Do This Before Bed And You'll Never Need A Gym (Once Daily) Celebrity Local http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/5882b221c4240322133fest52duc -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tony at tonydrews.com Sat Jan 21 01:12:28 2017 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sat, 21 Jan 2017 02:12:28 -0600 Subject: [Fot] TR3/4 Rear Main Seal References: <20170120.195748.28748.0@webmail07.dca.untd.com> I did get the message but don't have any alternate suggestions for rear seal if the crank is machined for the earlier seal kits. - Tony Drews At 06:57 PM 1/20/2017, Joe Boruch via Fot wrote: >Not sure if this went thru before, since I did not receive it in my >inbox and did not receive any replies. Sorry for the duplication, >if it went out previously. > >The recent discussion of the valve cover gasket reminded me to ask >about TR3/4 rear main seals. I know that the new improved Viton >seals are make to fit cranks that the scroll surface has not been >machined. All my cranks have been machined to fit the earlier seal >kits. Is there an upgraded seal kit to fit machined cranks or would >there even be any advantage to using the new seal? Joe(B) > > >fot at autox.team.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com From jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com Sat Jan 21 08:43:44 2017 From: jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com (Jack Wheeler) Date: Sat, 21 Jan 2017 15:43:44 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] TR3/4 Rear Main Seal References: <20170120.195748.28748.0@webmail07.dca.untd.com> <20170121081226.ADC451310F3@relay.mailchannels.net> Before the Viton seal became available, I used a couple of different approaches to keeping the crankcase sealed at 7,000 RPM's, both involved machining off the scrolling from the rear of the crankshaft.? The first was to use a rope seal, like the E-Type Jaguar.? I took the dimension off the Jag crank, then machined the Triumph crank to the same OD.? I used the stock Triumph aluminum seal to hold the rope seal in place. My next attempt was a big block Chevy, 2 part neoprene seal.? Again, I machined the Triumph crank surface where the seal rides to the same OD as the Big Block Chevy Crank.? Then I machined a two part aluminum retainer, similar to the stock Triumph rear seal, but with the inside machined to hold the Chevy seal in place.? I think there was a kit available at one time, were you could buy the seal, and the adapter that holds it in place (Moss (?) or someone like that had made up the same aluminum adapter that I had, and were selling it as a kit).? Anyway, this worked pretty well as long as you got the Chevy seal well centered around the crankshaft. You might go to a junk yard (or speed shop) and find out what the dimension of the big block Chevy crank is, at the point where the rear seal rides against the crank.? If your cranks can be machined to this diameter, then see if you can find one of the old Moss conversion kits.? When I sold my race car to Don Marshall (#11 EP TR-4A - Runoffs winner 1990), there were 2 or 3 of these seal adapters that went with it.? If you can track it down, see if one of these seal adapters is available (out of an engine), and could be used as a sample to have one machined.? Or, you could do like I did.? Buy the big block Chevy seal, and use it as a template, along with a stock Triumph rear seal, to figure the dimensions needed to machine a two part adapter.? This may seem like a lot of work, but if your cranks are good, it might be cheaper than getting a new crank, especially if you have good machining capability available. Good luck, and let me know what you decide. Jack From: Tony Drews via Fot To: Joe Boruch ; fot at autox.team.net Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2017 3:12 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] TR3/4 Rear Main Seal I did get the message but don't have any alternate suggestions for rear seal if the crank is machined for the earlier seal kits. - Tony Drews At 06:57 PM 1/20/2017, Joe Boruch via Fot wrote: >Not sure if this went thru before, since I did not receive it in my >inbox and did not receive any replies.? Sorry for the duplication, >if it went out previously. > >The recent discussion of the valve cover gasket reminded me to ask >about TR3/4 rear main seals.? I know that the new improved Viton >seals are make to fit cranks that the scroll surface has not been >machined.? All my cranks have been machined to fit the earlier seal >kits.? Is there an upgraded seal kit to fit machined cranks or would >there even be any advantage to using the new seal?? Joe(B) > > >fot at autox.team.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulricco at att.net Sat Jan 21 11:28:55 2017 From: paulricco at att.net (Paul Ricco) Date: Sat, 21 Jan 2017 12:28:55 -0600 Subject: [Fot] TR3/4 Rear Main Seal References: <20170120.195748.28748.0@webmail07.dca.untd.com> <20170121081226.ADC451310F3@relay.mailchannels.net> <1687323984.1520142.1485013424485@mail.yahoo.com> We have some experience with rear main seal issues on our TR4 race motor. When we purchased our car, all of the cranks that were included had already been machined and the scroll removed. We have been able seal the engines successfully with careful preparation using these cranks and we have been happy with the results. Here is what we learned: 1. The Revington Seal Kit does work very well when it is installed properly. It is good product. 2. There are a lot of cranks floating around that had the scroll removed, but they were not machined to the correct size for the seal kit. We have found some that have been machined too small and one that was too large. Too large was just as big a problem, because the seal could not close all the way around the crank causing a leak with the oil pressures that we run. 3. The aluminum seal housings are often not installed and sealed correctly. The problem is further compounded by the felt seal not being completely sealed when the rear main bearing cap is installed. We use 1 inch pieces of the felt soaked in Permatex Aviation Sealer and pack them in tight. It is messy, but seams to work well. 4. Measure your crank seal surface very carefully. If it is too small or too large, the seal will not work correctly. Both issues can be corrected. Have a good machine shop read the instructions and help you get the crank prepped per the instructions that come with the seal kit. 5. Make sure that the machine shop leaves the correct radius corner when they machine the scroll off. 6. Follow the instructions that Revington includes in his kit to the letter, and the seal will work great in racing applications. 7. I will only use replacement seals for our housings that are purchased directly from Revington TR. I have been told that another vendor tried to have some produced and they may not be the correct size and specification for the Revington housing. Going to Revington TR for the replacements solves that issue. 8. Choose the sealant that you use for the housing very carefully. We have had very good success with Hylomar. There may be other good choices but that has worked for us. Hope some of this helps and best of luck getting the motor sealed up. Paul Ricco TR4 Blue #4 Sent from my iPad > On Jan 21, 2017, at 9:43 AM, Jack Wheeler via Fot wrote: > > Before the Viton seal became available, I used a couple of different approaches to keeping the crankcase sealed at 7,000 RPM's, both involved machining off the scrolling from the rear of the crankshaft. The first was to use a rope seal, like the E-Type Jaguar. I took the dimension off the Jag crank, then machined the Triumph crank to the same OD. I used the stock Triumph aluminum seal to hold the rope seal in place. > > My next attempt was a big block Chevy, 2 part neoprene seal. Again, I machined the Triumph crank surface where the seal rides to the same OD as the Big Block Chevy Crank. Then I machined a two part aluminum retainer, similar to the stock Triumph rear seal, but with the inside machined to hold the Chevy seal in place. I think there was a kit available at one time, were you could buy the seal, and the adapter that holds it in place (Moss (?) or someone like that had made up the same aluminum adapter that I had, and were selling it as a kit). Anyway, this worked pretty well as long as you got the Chevy seal well centered around the crankshaft. > > You might go to a junk yard (or speed shop) and find out what the dimension of the big block Chevy crank is, at the point where the rear seal rides against the crank. If your cranks can be machined to this diameter, then see if you can find one of the old Moss conversion kits. When I sold my race car to Don Marshall (#11 EP TR-4A - Runoffs winner 1990), there were 2 or 3 of these seal adapters that went with it. If you can track it down, see if one of these seal adapters is available (out of an engine), and could be used as a sample to have one machined. Or, you could do like I did. Buy the big block Chevy seal, and use it as a template, along with a stock Triumph rear seal, to figure the dimensions needed to machine a two part adapter. This may seem like a lot of work, but if your cranks are good, it might be cheaper than getting a new crank, especially if you have good machining capability available. > > Good luck, and let me know what you decide. > > Jack > > > From: Tony Drews via Fot > To: Joe Boruch ; fot at autox.team.net > Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2017 3:12 AM > Subject: Re: [Fot] TR3/4 Rear Main Seal > > I did get the message but don't have any alternate suggestions for > rear seal if the crank is machined for the earlier seal kits. > > - Tony Drews > > At 06:57 PM 1/20/2017, Joe Boruch via Fot wrote: > >Not sure if this went thru before, since I did not receive it in my > >inbox and did not receive any replies. Sorry for the duplication, > >if it went out previously. > > > >The recent discussion of the valve cover gasket reminded me to ask > >about TR3/4 rear main seals. I know that the new improved Viton > >seals are make to fit cranks that the scroll surface has not been > >machined. All my cranks have been machined to fit the earlier seal > >kits. Is there an upgraded seal kit to fit machined cranks or would > >there even be any advantage to using the new seal? Joe(B) > > > > > >fot at autox.team.net > > > >http://www.fot-racing.com > > > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > >Unsubscribe/Manage: > >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/paulricco at att.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com Sat Jan 21 13:41:02 2017 From: Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com (Spitfire Racing) Date: Sat, 21 Jan 2017 15:41:02 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR-4 Wiring Harness A few years ago I was gathering bits and pieces to restore a TR-250 project that had previously migrated from Pennsylvania, to Louisiana then to Kentucky before I brought it up to the Finger lakes area. One of the things I bought was a new wiring harness. I now discover it is actually for a late TR-4 (CT27001 onward). If anyone is working on restoring a late street TR-4 and needs a harness get back to me. Bottom line is I'll sell this off and buy the proper TR-250 harness. There are too many differences to convert this over. This was sourced from TRF back when purchased I believe and far too much time has transpired to do a return. This is still in the sealed bag, never opened. Made in Great Britain. TRF part # is 306645. This is the main body harness. Russ Moore Spitfire #49 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au Sat Jan 21 14:19:16 2017 From: enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au (Enquiries Road & Track) Date: Sun, 22 Jan 2017 07:19:16 +1000 Subject: [Fot] Kastner cup at Blackhawk raceway my wife cindy and myself will be attending, coming from Australia. i have some work in WV in late may and will do a bit of holidaying in DC and then up to Toronto, before coming over to that area. We found the suggested motel was fully booked, but there are nearbye alternatives it seems if anyone needs a help beforehand or at the raceway, just yell as we are both very experienced in triumph racing . provided you live somewhere near our travels, we would be delighted to call in and lend a hand. look forward to finally meeting the many of you i have corresponded with over the years. terry o'beirne australia -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From deweerdm at rogers.com Sun Jan 22 08:13:42 2017 From: deweerdm at rogers.com (Mike Deweerd) Date: Sun, 22 Jan 2017 10:13:42 -0500 Subject: [Fot] And now for something completely different Amici Does anyone have a Huffaker 4bbl intake manifold for a Rover 3.5 and would be willing to part with it? Perhaps even bring it to Blackhawk Farms in June? Cheers Mike Deweerd Sent from my iPhone From don at dcphotos.com Sun Jan 22 15:44:22 2017 From: don at dcphotos.com (don at dcphotos.com) Date: Sun, 22 Jan 2017 16:44:22 -0600 Subject: [Fot] ARP head stud question - Spitfire 1296cc Greetings, The ARP studs I have, have 3/4? of thread on the side that goes in the block. (Actually, 3/4? on both sides) The factory studs I have, have 9/16? of thread on the side that goes in the block, this is the end with the groove cut in the threads to prevent hydraulic lock. (and 3/4 on the other end) The overall length of both are the same. When I thread the ARP stud into the block, because of the longer threaded end, it goes deeper into the block. This prevents me from putting the washer and nut on and still have thread come thru the nut. Should I simply back the ARP stud out 3/16? so it stands the height as a factory stud would? This is the second set of ARP studs that I have tried with the same issue. The first time was a bout a year ago and I got them from APT FAST which I returned and just used the factory studs. This time, I got the kit from Ted at TSI. Not bashing them just simply stating where I got them from. IOWs, from two different reputable businesses. I cannot be the only one having this issue. (can I?) Thanks, Don DON COUCH PHOTOGRAPHY (512)-680-3540 From ponobill at gmail.com Sun Jan 22 16:03:31 2017 From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill) Date: Sun, 22 Jan 2017 15:03:31 -0800 Subject: [Fot] ARP head stud question - Spitfire 1296cc References: From chasgee22 at gmail.com Sun Jan 22 18:27:50 2017 From: chasgee22 at gmail.com (chasgee22 at gmail.com) Date: Sun, 22 Jan 2017 17:27:50 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Minilite wheels Hello all, Does anyone happen to have a set of the 13x6 minilite wheels from back in the day that you don't want anymore? The fronts have a 4 7/8" backspace and the rears have a 4" backspace. They were used on Spitfires and GT6s. I could use another set. Thanks, Chuck From stlnyc at msn.com Sun Jan 22 20:15:31 2017 From: stlnyc at msn.com (Fred and Mary Hodgson) Date: Mon, 23 Jan 2017 03:15:31 +0000 Subject: [Fot] An article from Autoweek I thought you would enjoy http://www.autoweek.com/article/imsa/tv-schedule-2017-imsa-rolex-24-daytona Amici- In case you don?t get AutoWeek, here?s the viewing schedule for the 24 Hours of Daytona. Fred Hodgson -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com Mon Jan 23 04:21:23 2017 From: robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com (Robert Lang) Date: Mon, 23 Jan 2017 11:21:23 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Engine mounts References: <20170118050853.F203C1BC995@relay.mailchannels.net> <159b4b3e613-6936-7251@webprd-a55.mail.aol.com> Hi - I can't speak for wet liner mounts, but I put TRF HD engine mounts in my TR6s and they seem be holding up to the task. I think I installed them in 2005 or 2006, so 7 full seasons of autocross and three years of road racing. So, my experience has been good with them. For the street car, I'd guess close to 10k miles with no probs. I also run the equiv. tranny mounts with no issues. In? my case, those are the late-style transmission mounts. c ya,Bob Lang On Wednesday, January 18, 2017 10:50 PM, Bob Totten via Fot wrote: The?Roadster Factory ?? Maybe,Bob T -----Original Message----- From: Tony Drews via Fot To: Mike Deweerd ; Aaron Johnson via Fot Sent: Wed, Jan 18, 2017 4:46 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] Engine mounts I bought some from Cambridge England a number of years ago. Shipping was almost as much as the parts. Bought 4, put 2 in my car and ended up selling the other two to a racing buddy. Have had them in the car for probably 10 years. Tore up the normal ones. Got rid of the tilton clutch, that may have helped some (I can now more gently engage the clutch), but I think the motor mounts were the real fix. Probably comes from something else like a Rover v8. I've not seen them domestically but recall some conversation semi-recently about that - maybe a Moss ad. Regards, Tony D At 02:50 PM 1/17/2017, Mike Deweerd via Fot wrote: >Does anyone make a heavy duty engine mount for the TR4 ? >I tore a brand new apart even with the torque snubber plates >I have the A R E rear polyurethane mount so does anyone make front mounts? >Thanks >Mike Deweerd > >Sent from my iPhone >_______________________________________________ >fot at autox.team.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com Mon Jan 23 04:25:40 2017 From: robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com (Robert Lang) Date: Mon, 23 Jan 2017 11:25:40 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] new member References: <10AB2E6C-261F-4D1F-8FF7-F504012C4A02@gmail.com> <00e601d27248$e9e90520$bdbb0f60$@roadrunner.com> <80FE5822-395B-4409-AE80-CB06C6C792A5@gmail.com> I am totally seconding this suggestion (Dave) - he's an excellent driver, a died-in the wool Triumph fanatic (it's def. genetic) and even built a TR6 as his senior year project in high school (20 years ago!!). I guess I have to make sure I get my paperwork into SCCA so I can run with the HRG folks. C ya,Bob Lang On Thursday, January 19, 2017 8:12 AM, Joe Alexander via Fot wrote: ? Joe Alexander645 1st StreetJesup, IA 50648The-vintage-racer.comGasketinnovations.comCell: ?319.464.4711 On Jan 19, 2017, at 5:41 AM, Tim Hutchisen via Fot wrote: #yiv6333814556 #yiv6333814556 -- _filtered #yiv6333814556 {panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv6333814556 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;}#yiv6333814556 #yiv6333814556 p.yiv6333814556MsoNormal, #yiv6333814556 li.yiv6333814556MsoNormal, #yiv6333814556 div.yiv6333814556MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;}#yiv6333814556 a:link, #yiv6333814556 span.yiv6333814556MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv6333814556 a:visited, #yiv6333814556 span.yiv6333814556MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv6333814556 span.yiv6333814556EmailStyle17 {color:#1F497D;}#yiv6333814556 .yiv6333814556MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered #yiv6333814556 {margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in;}#yiv6333814556 div.yiv6333814556WordSection1 {}#yiv6333814556 I met Joanna this past summer, she is a fellow "Mainah" and the real deal. A fierce competitor and recently scored well in the VTR auto-X in Texas last fall. A definate second to the nomination. That would mean another third generation family to the FOT list??????.Tim HutchisenNorway, ME Penn Ridge Motors ?From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Alexander via Fot Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2017 8:25 PM To: carl stenquist ; fot at autox.team.net Cc: trgranny at me.com Subject: Re: [Fot] new member ?Dave Gott, yes! ?Maybe you should add Joanna Ellis to this nomination. ?Long time TR4 Racer on the east coast. Known by her email as ?"trgranny at me.com" ?Oh yes, that's Dave's mom. ?What say ye? ? Joe Alexander645 1st StreetJesup, IA 50648The-vintage-racer.comGasketinnovations.comCell: ?319.464.4711 On Jan 18, 2017, at 6:09 PM, carl stenquist via Fot wrote: FOTI would like to nominate Dave Gott as a new member of the group.? Dave just bought my TR4 so he can race against his Dad, Phil Gott, who raced against the car back in the day, and has recently started vintage racing his TR4 .? triumphsix at yahoo.comCarl Stenquist _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From levilevi at comcast.net Mon Jan 23 10:51:03 2017 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Mon, 23 Jan 2017 10:51:03 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Spitfire 1300 Main and rod journal clearances. List, What's rod and main journal clearances should be used on a 1300 race engine with a stock crank? Also any good recommendations on a degree wheel for setting up my cam? I got a ton of good advice on how to figure out my cam and the timing and really appreciate all the help. Now to put it into action. Thanks Bud Sent from my Commodore 64 From jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com Mon Jan 23 12:15:13 2017 From: jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com (Jack Wheeler) Date: Mon, 23 Jan 2017 19:15:13 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] TR3/4 Rear Main Seal References: <20170120.195748.28748.0@webmail07.dca.untd.com> <20170121081226.ADC451310F3@relay.mailchannels.net> <1687323984.1520142.1485013424485@mail.yahoo.com> <699af90eb81a4a88a26179181f29fb03@Server-Ex.RevingtonTR.local> Hi Neil.? Since I retired from racing, I have built a couple of Triumph engines, and am now working on an MGB engine.? On the first Triumph engine I did, I used used the stock Triumph head gasket, with Gaskacinch sealant, which I had used in the race car for 20 years or so.? Gaskacinca is an old regional gasket cement found in the Midwest USA.? I had trouble getting it to seal, and ended up with a combustion leak.? My machine shop guy recommended Cometic for the head gasket, and Hylomar sealant.? So I tried that combination, and it worked great. I'm getting ready to use a Cometic head gasket on the MGB I am rebuilding, and thought I would use Hylomar sealant.? Are you familiar with Cometic head gaskets?? If so, what sealant would you recommend?? I have some Hylomar left over from previous builds, but if you have something that is better, I'd like to use that.? Do you ship to the US?? If so, how would I go about ordering your Wellseal product? Thanks for your help. Jack Wheeler From: Neil Revington To: Paul Ricco ; Jack Wheeler Cc: Tony Drews ; Joe Boruch ; "fot at autox.team.net" Sent: Monday, January 23, 2017 12:34 PM Subject: RE: [Fot] TR3/4 Rear Main Seal Hi Paul, Thanks for copying me in on this. My only comment would be that Hylamar is not ideal as it can ?ball off? and when that happens rubbery bits of goo end up in oil ways. You should use the original product Wellseal http://www.revingtontr.com/product/600569a/name/wellseal-jointing-compound-100ml or the superior sealant Heldite http://www.revingtontr.com/product/tdc5001-125/name/heldite-125ml-tin-with-applicator or of course any other similar product. Anything by silicone sealant. ? Cheers ? Neil Revington Revington TR Ltd? Thorngrove Barns, Middlezoy, Somerset, TA7 0PD. England ( +44(0)1823 698437 Fax:- +44(0)1823 698109 -neil at revingtontr.com web: www.revingtontr.com Every part you need for your TR, new or second hand, standard or improved. Connect with Revington TR: ???? ? Suppliers of Standard and uprated parts to?TR enthusiasts ? From: Paul Ricco [mailto:paulricco at att.net] Sent: 21 January 2017 18:29 To: Jack Wheeler Cc: Tony Drews ; Joe Boruch ; fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] TR3/4 Rear Main Seal ? We have some experience with rear main seal issues on our TR4 race motor. ?When we purchased our car, all of the cranks that were included had already been machined and the scroll removed. ?We have been able seal the engines successfully with careful preparation using these cranks and we have been happy with the results. ?Here is what we learned: ? 1. ?The Revington Seal Kit does work very well when it is installed properly. ?It is good product. ? ? 2. ?There are a lot of cranks floating around that had the scroll removed, but they were not machined to the correct size for the seal kit. ?We have found some that have been machined too small and one that was too large. ?Too large was just as big a problem, because the seal could not close all the way around the crank causing a leak with the oil pressures that we run. ? 3. ?The aluminum seal housings are often not installed and sealed correctly. ?The problem is further compounded by the felt seal not being completely sealed when the rear main bearing cap is installed. ?We use 1 inch pieces of the felt soaked in Permatex Aviation Sealer and pack them in tight. ?It is messy, ?but seams to work well. ? 4. ?Measure your crank seal surface very carefully. ?If it is too small or too large, the seal will not work correctly. ?Both issues can be corrected. ?Have a good machine shop read the instructions and help you get the crank prepped per the instructions that come with the seal kit. ? 5. ?Make sure that the machine shop leaves the correct radius corner when they machine the scroll off. ? 6. ?Follow the instructions that Revington includes in his kit to the letter, and the seal will work great in racing applications. ? 7. ?I will only use replacement seals for our housings that are purchased directly from Revington TR. ?I have been told that another vendor tried to have some produced and they may not be the correct size and specification for the Revington housing. ?Going to Revington TR for the replacements solves that issue. ? 8. ?Choose the sealant that you use for the housing very carefully. ?We have had very good success with Hylomar. ?There may be other good choices but that has worked for us. ? Hope some of this helps and best of luck getting the motor sealed up. ? Paul Ricco TR4 Blue #4 ? Sent from my iPad On Jan 21, 2017, at 9:43 AM, Jack Wheeler via Fot wrote: Before the Viton seal became available, I used a couple of different approaches to keeping the crankcase sealed at 7,000 RPM's, both involved machining off the scrolling from the rear of the crankshaft.? The first was to use a rope seal, like the E-Type Jaguar.? I took the dimension off the Jag crank, then machined the Triumph crank to the same OD.? I used the stock Triumph aluminum seal to hold the rope seal in place. My next attempt was a big block Chevy, 2 part neoprene seal.? Again, I machined the Triumph crank surface where the seal rides to the same OD as the Big Block Chevy Crank.? Then I machined a two part aluminum retainer, similar to the stock Triumph rear seal, but with the inside machined to hold the Chevy seal in place.? I think there was a kit available at one time, were you could buy the seal, and the adapter that holds it in place (Moss (?) or someone like that had made up the same aluminum adapter that I had, and were selling it as a kit).? Anyway, this worked pretty well as long as you got the Chevy seal well centered around the crankshaft. You might go to a junk yard (or speed shop) and find out what the dimension of the big block Chevy crank is, at the point where the rear seal rides against the crank.? If your cranks can be machined to this diameter, then see if you can find one of the old Moss conversion kits.? When I sold my race car to Don Marshall (#11 EP TR-4A - Runoffs winner 1990), there were 2 or 3 of these seal adapters that went with it.? If you can track it down, see if one of these seal adapters is available (out of an engine), and could be used as a sample to have one machined.? Or, you could do like I did.? Buy the big block Chevy seal, and use it as a template, along with a stock Triumph rear seal, to figure the dimensions needed to machine a two part adapter.? This may seem like a lot of work, but if your cranks are good, it might be cheaper than getting a new crank, especially if you have good machining capability available. Good luck, and let me know what you decide. Jack ? From: Tony Drews via Fot To: Joe Boruch ;fot at autox.team.net Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2017 3:12 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] TR3/4 Rear Main Seal I did get the message but don't have any alternate suggestions for rear seal if the crank is machined for the earlier seal kits. - Tony Drews At 06:57 PM 1/20/2017, Joe Boruch via Fot wrote: >Not sure if this went thru before, since I did not receive it in my >inbox and did not receive any replies.? Sorry for the duplication, >if it went out previously. > >The recent discussion of the valve cover gasket reminded me to ask >about TR3/4 rear main seals.? I know that the new improved Viton >seals are make to fit cranks that the scroll surface has not been >machined.? All my cranks have been machined to fit the earlier seal >kits.? Is there an upgraded seal kit to fit machined cranks or would >there even be any advantage to using the new seal?? Joe(B) > > >fot at autox.team.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive ? _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.gif Type: image/gif Size: 899 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.gif Type: image/gif Size: 1421 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.gif Type: image/gif Size: 1252 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image004.gif Type: image/gif Size: 1378 bytes Desc: not available URL: From gblake58tr3 at icloud.com Mon Jan 23 14:03:14 2017 From: gblake58tr3 at icloud.com (Greg Blake) Date: Mon, 23 Jan 2017 15:03:14 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Spitfire 1300 Main and rod journal clearances. References: Bud, When I had easy access to a plotter and cad, I just drew a circle and graduated with ticks at every degree and bold lines at 5 degree increments. Once plotted, I laminated the wheel. I've been using this "degree wheel" for 9 years now and it works great. Point of the story is you can probably rig one up with readily available materials. Greg Sent from my iPhone > On Jan 23, 2017, at 11:51 AM, Bud Rolofson via Fot wrote: > > List, > > What's rod and main journal clearances should be used on a 1300 race engine with a stock crank? > > Also any good recommendations on a degree wheel for setting up my cam? > > I got a ton of good advice on how to figure out my cam and the timing and really appreciate all the help. Now to put it into action. > > Thanks > Bud > > Sent from my Commodore 64 > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gblake58tr3 at icloud.com > > From rek46 at aol.com Mon Jan 23 16:47:26 2017 From: rek46 at aol.com (=?utf-8?B?cmVrNDZAYW9sLmNvbQ==?=) Date: Mon, 23 Jan 2017 18:47:26 -0500 Subject: [Fot] =?utf-8?q?Spitfire_1300_Main_and_rod_journal_clearances=2E?= We always set at .002min, .0025best,for racing setup F/P....1290 with Moldex crank. Sent from my HTC on the Now Network from Sprint! ----- Reply message ----- From: "Bud Rolofson via Fot" Date: Mon, Jan 23, 2017 12:51 pm Subject: [Fot] Spitfire 1300 Main and rod journal clearances. To: "FOT" List, What's rod and main journal clearances should be used on a 1300 race engine with a stock crank? Also any good recommendations on a degree wheel for setting up my cam? I got a ton of good advice on how to figure out my cam and the timing and really appreciate all the help. Now to put it into action. Thanks Bud Sent from my Commodore 64 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com Mon Jan 23 19:36:55 2017 From: duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com (Duncan Charlton) Date: Mon, 23 Jan 2017 20:36:55 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Spitfire 1300 Main and rod journal clearances. References: Bud, I made my own degree wheel from a piece of flat aluminum stock and a glued-on paper degree wheel that I got from one of the performance parts houses ? Summit, Pegasus, etc. The hole in the center has fit the pulley bolt on the engines I?ve worked on lately (including a TR motor). I also had to do an initial check without removing the pulley, so I got some strong double stick foam tape and pressed it into place. I then checked for true TDC and bent a temporary pointer into position. I was able to check cam timing that way. If accuracy counts, don?t photocopy someone else?s degree wheel ? that can create a distortion so that the timing figures can be a couple of degrees off in various places around the circle (I found out the hard way some years back). Duncan Charlton Elgin, Texas USA > On Jan 23, 2017, at 11:51 AM, Bud Rolofson via Fot wrote: > > List, > > What's rod and main journal clearances should be used on a 1300 race engine with a stock crank? > > Also any good recommendations on a degree wheel for setting up my cam? > > I got a ton of good advice on how to figure out my cam and the timing and really appreciate all the help. Now to put it into action. > > Thanks > Bud > > Sent from my Commodore 64 > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com > > From britcars at bellsouth.net Tue Jan 24 05:50:04 2017 From: britcars at bellsouth.net (barry rosenberg) Date: Tue, 24 Jan 2017 12:50:04 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] TR3/4 Rear Main Seal References: <20170120.195748.28748.0@webmail07.dca.untd.com> <20170121081226.ADC451310F3@relay.mailchannels.net> <1687323984.1520142.1485013424485@mail.yahoo.com> <699af90eb81a4a88a26179181f29fb03@Server-Ex.RevingtonTR.local> <271975055.3437584.1485198913338@mail.yahoo.com> I have always thought that head gasket "sealant" was not to seal the gasket but to act as a lubricant so to speak to allow the head and block to expand and contract at their different rates and not shear the gasket. I also heard this from Mr. Gasket tech department when I spoke with them. They test head gaskets to destruction and they told me the best "sealant" they found was Permatex High Tack in either spray or brush on. It took them more effort to destroy the gaskets with this product than anything else they tested. I have used it successfully on many engine builds. You can call their tech department and talk with one of their people, they are very friendly. Barry RosenbergBritish Car Service On Monday, January 23, 2017 7:43 PM, Jack Wheeler via Fot wrote: Hi Neil.? Since I retired from racing, I have built a couple of Triumph engines, and am now working on an MGB engine.? On the first Triumph engine I did, I used used the stock Triumph head gasket, with Gaskacinch sealant, which I had used in the race car for 20 years or so.? Gaskacinca is an old regional gasket cement found in the Midwest USA.? I had trouble getting it to seal, and ended up with a combustion leak.? My machine shop guy recommended Cometic for the head gasket, and Hylomar sealant.? So I tried that combination, and it worked great. I'm getting ready to use a Cometic head gasket on the MGB I am rebuilding, and thought I would use Hylomar sealant.? Are you familiar with Cometic head gaskets?? If so, what sealant would you recommend?? I have some Hylomar left over from previous builds, but if you have something that is better, I'd like to use that.? Do you ship to the US?? If so, how would I go about ordering your Wellseal product? Thanks for your help. Jack Wheeler From: Neil Revington To: Paul Ricco ; Jack Wheeler Cc: Tony Drews ; Joe Boruch ; "fot at autox.team.net" Sent: Monday, January 23, 2017 12:34 PM Subject: RE: [Fot] TR3/4 Rear Main Seal Hi Paul, Thanks for copying me in on this. My only comment would be that Hylamar is not ideal as it can ?ball off? and when that happens rubbery bits of goo end up in oil ways. You should use the original product Wellseal http://www.revingtontr.com/product/600569a/name/wellseal-jointing-compound-100ml or the superior sealant Heldite http://www.revingtontr.com/product/tdc5001-125/name/heldite-125ml-tin-with-applicator or of course any other similar product. Anything by silicone sealant. ? Cheers ? Neil Revington Revington TR Ltd? Thorngrove Barns, Middlezoy, Somerset, TA7 0PD. England ( +44(0)1823 698437 Fax:- +44(0)1823 698109 -neil at revingtontr.com web: www.revingtontr.com Every part you need for your TR, new or second hand, standard or improved. Connect with Revington TR: ???? ? Suppliers of Standard and uprated parts to?TR enthusiasts ? From: Paul Ricco [mailto:paulricco at att.net] Sent: 21 January 2017 18:29 To: Jack Wheeler Cc: Tony Drews ; Joe Boruch ; fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] TR3/4 Rear Main Seal ? We have some experience with rear main seal issues on our TR4 race motor. ?When we purchased our car, all of the cranks that were included had already been machined and the scroll removed. ?We have been able seal the engines successfully with careful preparation using these cranks and we have been happy with the results. ?Here is what we learned: ? 1. ?The Revington Seal Kit does work very well when it is installed properly. ?It is good product. ? ? 2. ?There are a lot of cranks floating around that had the scroll removed, but they were not machined to the correct size for the seal kit. ?We have found some that have been machined too small and one that was too large. ?Too large was just as big a problem, because the seal could not close all the way around the crank causing a leak with the oil pressures that we run. ? 3. ?The aluminum seal housings are often not installed and sealed correctly. ?The problem is further compounded by the felt seal not being completely sealed when the rear main bearing cap is installed. ?We use 1 inch pieces of the felt soaked in Permatex Aviation Sealer and pack them in tight. ?It is messy, ?but seams to work well. ? 4. ?Measure your crank seal surface very carefully. ?If it is too small or too large, the seal will not work correctly. ?Both issues can be corrected. ?Have a good machine shop read the instructions and help you get the crank prepped per the instructions that come with the seal kit. ? 5. ?Make sure that the machine shop leaves the correct radius corner when they machine the scroll off. ? 6. ?Follow the instructions that Revington includes in his kit to the letter, and the seal will work great in racing applications. ? 7. ?I will only use replacement seals for our housings that are purchased directly from Revington TR. ?I have been told that another vendor tried to have some produced and they may not be the correct size and specification for the Revington housing. ?Going to Revington TR for the replacements solves that issue. ? 8. ?Choose the sealant that you use for the housing very carefully. ?We have had very good success with Hylomar. ?There may be other good choices but that has worked for us. ? Hope some of this helps and best of luck getting the motor sealed up. ? Paul Ricco TR4 Blue #4 ? Sent from my iPad On Jan 21, 2017, at 9:43 AM, Jack Wheeler via Fot wrote: Before the Viton seal became available, I used a couple of different approaches to keeping the crankcase sealed at 7,000 RPM's, both involved machining off the scrolling from the rear of the crankshaft.? The first was to use a rope seal, like the E-Type Jaguar.? I took the dimension off the Jag crank, then machined the Triumph crank to the same OD.? I used the stock Triumph aluminum seal to hold the rope seal in place. My next attempt was a big block Chevy, 2 part neoprene seal.? Again, I machined the Triumph crank surface where the seal rides to the same OD as the Big Block Chevy Crank.? Then I machined a two part aluminum retainer, similar to the stock Triumph rear seal, but with the inside machined to hold the Chevy seal in place.? I think there was a kit available at one time, were you could buy the seal, and the adapter that holds it in place (Moss (?) or someone like that had made up the same aluminum adapter that I had, and were selling it as a kit).? Anyway, this worked pretty well as long as you got the Chevy seal well centered around the crankshaft. You might go to a junk yard (or speed shop) and find out what the dimension of the big block Chevy crank is, at the point where the rear seal rides against the crank.? If your cranks can be machined to this diameter, then see if you can find one of the old Moss conversion kits.? When I sold my race car to Don Marshall (#11 EP TR-4A - Runoffs winner 1990), there were 2 or 3 of these seal adapters that went with it.? If you can track it down, see if one of these seal adapters is available (out of an engine), and could be used as a sample to have one machined.? Or, you could do like I did.? Buy the big block Chevy seal, and use it as a template, along with a stock Triumph rear seal, to figure the dimensions needed to machine a two part adapter.? This may seem like a lot of work, but if your cranks are good, it might be cheaper than getting a new crank, especially if you have good machining capability available. Good luck, and let me know what you decide. Jack ? From: Tony Drews via Fot To: Joe Boruch ;fot at autox.team.net Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2017 3:12 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] TR3/4 Rear Main Seal I did get the message but don't have any alternate suggestions for rear seal if the crank is machined for the earlier seal kits. - Tony Drews At 06:57 PM 1/20/2017, Joe Boruch via Fot wrote: >Not sure if this went thru before, since I did not receive it in my >inbox and did not receive any replies.? Sorry for the duplication, >if it went out previously. > >The recent discussion of the valve cover gasket reminded me to ask >about TR3/4 rear main seals.? I know that the new improved Viton >seals are make to fit cranks that the scroll surface has not been >machined.? All my cranks have been machined to fit the earlier seal >kits.? Is there an upgraded seal kit to fit machined cranks or would >there even be any advantage to using the new seal?? Joe(B) > > >fot at autox.team.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive ? _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.gif Type: image/gif Size: 899 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.gif Type: image/gif Size: 1421 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.gif Type: image/gif Size: 1252 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image004.gif Type: image/gif Size: 1378 bytes Desc: not available URL: From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com Tue Jan 24 07:23:03 2017 From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott) Date: Tue, 24 Jan 2017 14:23:03 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Spitfire 1300 Main and rod journal clearances. References: <45486D12-2A1F-4E9B-8684-F901B29527E3@icloud.com> Nice, big, easily useable degree wheels are available from lots of the usual places. I think I got mine from Comp Cams. Scott (B.) > On Jan 23, 2017, at 11:51 AM, Bud Rolofson via Fot wrote: > > List, > > What's rod and main journal clearances should be used on a 1300 race engine with a stock crank? > > Also any good recommendations on a degree wheel for setting up my cam? > > I got a ton of good advice on how to figure out my cam and the timing and really appreciate all the help. Now to put it into action. > > Thanks > Bud > > Sent from my Commodore 64 > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gblake58tr3 at icloud.com > > _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From william.tobin31 at verizon.net Tue Jan 24 08:48:33 2017 From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin) Date: Tue, 24 Jan 2017 10:48:33 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Spitfire 1300 Main and rod journal clearances. References: <45486D12-2A1F-4E9B-8684-F901B29527E3@icloud.com> <84F56CFCC31FAC48AE160008ADDECFA54806D73A@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com> JEGS and Summit have them too. Cheers, Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: "Barr, Scott via Fot" To: "triumph friends" ; "Bud Rolofson" Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2017 9:23 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Spitfire 1300 Main and rod journal clearances. > Nice, big, easily useable degree wheels are available from lots of the > usual places. I think I got mine from Comp Cams. > > Scott (B.) > > >> On Jan 23, 2017, at 11:51 AM, Bud Rolofson via Fot >> wrote: >> >> List, >> >> What's rod and main journal clearances should be used on a 1300 race >> engine with a stock crank? >> >> Also any good recommendations on a degree wheel for setting up my cam? >> >> I got a ton of good advice on how to figure out my cam and the timing and >> really appreciate all the help. Now to put it into action. >> >> Thanks >> Bud >> >> Sent from my Commodore 64 >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gblake58tr3 at icloud.com >> >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sbarr at mccarty-law.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net > > From jaboruch at netzero.net Tue Jan 24 10:02:42 2017 From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch) Date: Tue, 24 Jan 2017 17:02:42 GMT Subject: [Fot] TR3/4 Rear Main Seal It seems that I am not receiving all my emails. I received this one, but did not get all the others that were in this train. I wish that we had a Cometic MLS head gasket for race TR3/4s. I contacted Cometic some time ago, but they wanted a huge order before they would make them. I have not tried them recently. I can make a steel shim head gasket work, but it takes a lot of time. I modern head gasket would make things much easier. Regarding the rear seal, the old style uprated seal (scroll removed) has been good in my race car, which I take well over 7000 rpm. It is my street TR4 that has the problem. The previous owner built the engine and the seal was a problem for him (I knew about it when I bought the car). Not sure what seal kit he used. I need to pull the engine and take it apart to see what is what. Thanks. Joe(B) ---------- Original Message ---------- From: Jack Wheeler via Fot To: Neil Revington Cc: "fot at autox.team.net" Subject: Re: [Fot] TR3/4 Rear Main Seal Date: Mon, 23 Jan 2017 19:15:13 +0000 (UTC) Hi Neil. Since I retired from racing, I have built a couple of Triumph engines, and am now working on an MGB engine. On the first Triumph engine I did, I used used the stock Triumph head gasket, with Gaskacinch sealant, which I had used in the race car for 20 years or so. Gaskacinca is an old regional gasket cement found in the Midwest USA. I had trouble getting it to seal, and ended up with a combustion leak. My machine shop guy recommended Cometic for the head gasket, and Hylomar sealant. So I tried that combination, and it worked great. I'm getting ready to use a Cometic head gasket on the MGB I am rebuilding, and thought I would use Hylomar sealant. Are you familiar with Cometic head gaskets? If so, what sealant would you recommend? I have some Hylomar left over from previous builds, but if you have something that is better, I'd like to use that. Do you ship to the US? If so, how would I go about ordering your Wellseal product? Thanks for your help. Jack Wheeler ____________________________________________________________ Drink This Before Bed To "Burn" Belly Fat Overnight Celebrity Local http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/588788f1acd6a8f17ba3st52duc -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com Tue Jan 24 15:09:38 2017 From: duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com (Duncan Charlton) Date: Tue, 24 Jan 2017 16:09:38 -0600 Subject: [Fot] TR3/4 Rear Main Seal References: <20170124.120242.11896.0@webmail10.dca.untd.com> Joe, You might just pull the sump to see if the rear metal seal holder has been modified (small non-critical ?ears? taken off at the left and right edges) to allow the rear main cap to be removed while the engine is in the car. I haven?t tried it but I think the seal can be replaced without pulling the engine if this modification has been done. Duncan Charlton Elgin, Texas USA > On Jan 24, 2017, at 11:02 AM, Joe Boruch via Fot wrote: > > It seems that I am not receiving all my emails. I received this one, but did not get all the others that were in this train. I wish that we had a Cometic MLS head gasket for race TR3/4s. I contacted Cometic some time ago, but they wanted a huge order before they would make them. I have not tried them recently. I can make a steel shim head gasket work, but it takes a lot of time. I modern head gasket would make things much easier. > > Regarding the rear seal, the old style uprated seal (scroll removed) has been good in my race car, which I take well over 7000 rpm. It is my street TR4 that has the problem. The previous owner built the engine and the seal was a problem for him (I knew about it when I bought the car). Not sure what seal kit he used. I need to pull the engine and take it apart to see what is what. Thanks. Joe(B) > > > ---------- Original Message ---------- > Subject: Re: [Fot] TR3/4 Rear Main Seal > Date: Mon, 23 Jan 2017 19:15:13 +0000 (UTC) > > > Hi Neil. Since I retired from racing, I have built a couple of Triumph engines, and am now working on an MGB engine. On the first Triumph engine I did, I used used the stock Triumph head gasket, with Gaskacinch sealant, which I had used in the race car for 20 years or so. Gaskacinca is an old regional gasket cement found in the Midwest USA. I had trouble getting it to seal, and ended up with a combustion leak. My machine shop guy recommended Cometic for the head gasket, and Hylomar sealant. So I tried that combination, and it worked great. > > I'm getting ready to use a Cometic head gasket on the MGB I am rebuilding, and thought I would use Hylomar sealant. Are you familiar with Cometic head gaskets? If so, what sealant would you recommend? I have some Hylomar left over from previous builds, but if you have something that is better, I'd like to use that. Do you ship to the US? If so, how would I go about ordering your Wellseal product? > > Thanks for your help. > > Jack Wheeler > > > > > > > > ____________________________________________________________ > Drink This Before Bed To "Burn" Belly Fat Overnight > Celebrity Local > http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3232/588788f1acd6a8f17ba3st52duc > _______________________________________________ > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com Tue Jan 24 16:39:14 2017 From: jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com (Jack Wheeler) Date: Tue, 24 Jan 2017 23:39:14 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] TR3/4 Rear Main Seal References: <20170120.195748.28748.0@webmail07.dca.untd.com> <20170121081226.ADC451310F3@relay.mailchannels.net> <1687323984.1520142.1485013424485@mail.yahoo.com> <699af90eb81a4a88a26179181f29fb03@Server-Ex.RevingtonTR.local> ?I have received a huge number of responses to my questions about crankshaft rear seal modifications for TR-3 and TR-4 engines.? In fact, I think there must be as many different approaches as there are members of the FOT.? Thanks for the ideas.? It sure gives me something to think about. Thanks again. Jack ----- Forwarded Message ----- From: Neil Revington To: Paul Ricco ; Jack Wheeler Cc: Tony Drews ; Joe Boruch ; "fot at autox.team.net" Sent: Monday, January 23, 2017 12:34 PM Subject: RE: [Fot] TR3/4 Rear Main Seal Hi Paul, Thanks for copying me in on this. My only comment would be that Hylamar is not ideal as it can ?ball off? and when that happens rubbery bits of goo end up in oil ways. You should use the original product Wellseal http://www.revingtontr.com/product/600569a/name/wellseal-jointing-compound-100ml or the superior sealant Heldite http://www.revingtontr.com/product/tdc5001-125/name/heldite-125ml-tin-with-applicator or of course any other similar product. Anything by silicone sealant. ? Cheers ? Neil Revington Revington TR Ltd? Thorngrove Barns, Middlezoy, Somerset, TA7 0PD. England ( +44(0)1823 698437 Fax:- +44(0)1823 698109 -neil at revingtontr.com web: www.revingtontr.com Every part you need for your TR, new or second hand, standard or improved. Connect with Revington TR: ???? ? Suppliers of Standard and uprated parts to?TR enthusiasts ? From: Paul Ricco [mailto:paulricco at att.net] Sent: 21 January 2017 18:29 To: Jack Wheeler Cc: Tony Drews ; Joe Boruch ; fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] TR3/4 Rear Main Seal ? We have some experience with rear main seal issues on our TR4 race motor. ?When we purchased our car, all of the cranks that were included had already been machined and the scroll removed. ?We have been able seal the engines successfully with careful preparation using these cranks and we have been happy with the results. ?Here is what we learned: ? 1. ?The Revington Seal Kit does work very well when it is installed properly. ?It is good product. ? ? 2. ?There are a lot of cranks floating around that had the scroll removed, but they were not machined to the correct size for the seal kit. ?We have found some that have been machined too small and one that was too large. ?Too large was just as big a problem, because the seal could not close all the way around the crank causing a leak with the oil pressures that we run. ? 3. ?The aluminum seal housings are often not installed and sealed correctly. ?The problem is further compounded by the felt seal not being completely sealed when the rear main bearing cap is installed. ?We use 1 inch pieces of the felt soaked in Permatex Aviation Sealer and pack them in tight. ?It is messy, ?but seams to work well. ? 4. ?Measure your crank seal surface very carefully. ?If it is too small or too large, the seal will not work correctly. ?Both issues can be corrected. ?Have a good machine shop read the instructions and help you get the crank prepped per the instructions that come with the seal kit. ? 5. ?Make sure that the machine shop leaves the correct radius corner when they machine the scroll off. ? 6. ?Follow the instructions that Revington includes in his kit to the letter, and the seal will work great in racing applications. ? 7. ?I will only use replacement seals for our housings that are purchased directly from Revington TR. ?I have been told that another vendor tried to have some produced and they may not be the correct size and specification for the Revington housing. ?Going to Revington TR for the replacements solves that issue. ? 8. ?Choose the sealant that you use for the housing very carefully. ?We have had very good success with Hylomar. ?There may be other good choices but that has worked for us. ? Hope some of this helps and best of luck getting the motor sealed up. ? Paul Ricco TR4 Blue #4 ? Sent from my iPad On Jan 21, 2017, at 9:43 AM, Jack Wheeler via Fot wrote: Before the Viton seal became available, I used a couple of different approaches to keeping the crankcase sealed at 7,000 RPM's, both involved machining off the scrolling from the rear of the crankshaft.? The first was to use a rope seal, like the E-Type Jaguar.? I took the dimension off the Jag crank, then machined the Triumph crank to the same OD.? I used the stock Triumph aluminum seal to hold the rope seal in place. My next attempt was a big block Chevy, 2 part neoprene seal.? Again, I machined the Triumph crank surface where the seal rides to the same OD as the Big Block Chevy Crank.? Then I machined a two part aluminum retainer, similar to the stock Triumph rear seal, but with the inside machined to hold the Chevy seal in place.? I think there was a kit available at one time, were you could buy the seal, and the adapter that holds it in place (Moss (?) or someone like that had made up the same aluminum adapter that I had, and were selling it as a kit).? Anyway, this worked pretty well as long as you got the Chevy seal well centered around the crankshaft. You might go to a junk yard (or speed shop) and find out what the dimension of the big block Chevy crank is, at the point where the rear seal rides against the crank.? If your cranks can be machined to this diameter, then see if you can find one of the old Moss conversion kits.? When I sold my race car to Don Marshall (#11 EP TR-4A - Runoffs winner 1990), there were 2 or 3 of these seal adapters that went with it.? If you can track it down, see if one of these seal adapters is available (out of an engine), and could be used as a sample to have one machined.? Or, you could do like I did.? Buy the big block Chevy seal, and use it as a template, along with a stock Triumph rear seal, to figure the dimensions needed to machine a two part adapter.? This may seem like a lot of work, but if your cranks are good, it might be cheaper than getting a new crank, especially if you have good machining capability available. Good luck, and let me know what you decide. Jack ? From: Tony Drews via Fot To: Joe Boruch ;fot at autox.team.net Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2017 3:12 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] TR3/4 Rear Main Seal I did get the message but don't have any alternate suggestions for rear seal if the crank is machined for the earlier seal kits. - Tony Drews At 06:57 PM 1/20/2017, Joe Boruch via Fot wrote: >Not sure if this went thru before, since I did not receive it in my >inbox and did not receive any replies.? Sorry for the duplication, >if it went out previously. > >The recent discussion of the valve cover gasket reminded me to ask >about TR3/4 rear main seals.? I know that the new improved Viton >seals are make to fit cranks that the scroll surface has not been >machined.? All my cranks have been machined to fit the earlier seal >kits.? Is there an upgraded seal kit to fit machined cranks or would >there even be any advantage to using the new seal?? Joe(B) > > >fot at autox.team.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive ? _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.gif Type: image/gif Size: 1252 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.gif Type: image/gif Size: 1421 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.gif Type: image/gif Size: 899 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image004.gif Type: image/gif Size: 1378 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ponobill at gmail.com Tue Jan 24 18:06:47 2017 From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill) Date: Tue, 24 Jan 2017 17:06:47 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Spitfire 1300 Main and rod journal clearances. References: <45486D12-2A1F-4E9B-8684-F901B29527E3@icloud.com> <84F56CFCC31FAC48AE160008ADDECFA54806D73A@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com> <5E3267276E294CF5B00C77293192F393@hpd530> The best investment I?ve made in a while is getting a pro-quality degree wheel. Easy to set and sturdy enough to turn the motor over easily with the wheel. Yeah, it?s a couple of hundred bucks, but it?s dead accurate and I?ll own it the rest of my life. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-4791-1/overview/ > > JEGS and Summit have them too. > Cheers, Bill > Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2017 9:23 AM > Subject: Re: [Fot] Spitfire 1300 Main and rod journal clearances. > > >> Nice, big, easily useable degree wheels are available from lots of the usual places. I think I got mine from Comp Cams. >> >> Scott (B.) >> >> >>> >>> List, >>> >>> What's rod and main journal clearances should be used on a 1300 race engine with a stock crank? >>> >>> Also any good recommendations on a degree wheel for setting up my cam? >>> >>> I got a ton of good advice on how to figure out my cam and the timing and really appreciate all the help. Now to put it into action. >>> >>> Thanks >>> Bud >>> >>> Sent from my Commodore 64 >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gblake58tr3 at icloud.com >>> >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sbarr at mccarty-law.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net >> > > _______________________________________________ > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bill at ponostyle.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mckearn2 at gmail.com Tue Jan 24 19:27:11 2017 From: mckearn2 at gmail.com (McKearn McKearn) Date: Tue, 24 Jan 2017 20:27:11 -0600 Subject: [Fot] IH B414 Tractor Hello All. I apologize for getting this far off from the usual topics but I need some input here. I am considering the purchase of an older British made tractor and am wondering if anyone out there has any experience with the International B414? They were built between 1961 and 1966 in Bradford England. I am most concerned with availability of parts. By the way I am so much looking forward to the upcoming Kastner cup at Blackhawk Farms. I call that my home track because I grew up 7 miles from the track and on weekends when the wind was blowing the right way we could here the cars racing. I was there every chance I got. Thanks. P.J. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dlhogye at comcast.net Tue Jan 24 20:27:51 2017 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye) Date: Wed, 25 Jan 2017 03:27:51 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] TR3 restoration slide show Hello Friends, I hope this message finds you all well. I have been wanting to put together a video slide show of my TR3 restoration and race car build for sometime. The stormy weather here on the west coast has forced me to sit down long enough to put something together. I also have a number of race weekend videos to share with you soon. The long time between fiddling with editting and downloading videos causes me to have to relearn how to get it done, so I have put them aside in frustration. I have some very good Sonoma Kastner Cup footage I think you would enjoy. Stay tuned. The music with the slide show is the Hungarian Rhapsody No.2 by Liszt. I happen to be Hungarian on my father's side, the music was open and free for use and it happened to be very close to the length of the slide show, so I thought it to be a good all around fit. I was initially looking for some jazz when I found it. Cheers, Dave Hogye https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UW-cSGzyKXs -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr4 at wi.rr.com Wed Jan 25 09:38:37 2017 From: tr4 at wi.rr.com (Steve Yott) Date: Wed, 25 Jan 2017 10:38:37 -0600 Subject: [Fot] IH B414 Tractor References: P.J. I had the privilege of rebuilding a Standard engine for a 1951 Massey Ferguson TEA-20 tractor a couple of years ago. This is the model of tractor that used the engine which was the building block for the Triumph TR2,3 and 4 engines. Although the engine has the outwardly appearance of the TR engine there were very few internal similarities. This engine used 80mm pistons so of course we bored the block recesses to accept 87mm parts! The engine generates about 20+ HP and is governed at 2200 RPM. It was a fun and educational build! Anyway, I found a great resource to antique tractor parts at Yesterdays Tractors and they have the website at yesterdaystractors.com Have fun! Steve Yott From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of McKearn McKearn via Fot Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2017 8:27 PM To: FOT list Subject: [Fot] IH B414 Tractor Hello All. I apologize for getting this far off from the usual topics but I need some input here. I am considering the purchase of an older British made tractor and am wondering if anyone out there has any experience with the International B414? They were built between 1961 and 1966 in Bradford England. I am most concerned with availability of parts. By the way I am so much looking forward to the upcoming Kastner cup at Blackhawk Farms. I call that my home track because I grew up 7 miles from the track and on weekends when the wind was blowing the right way we could here the cars racing. I was there every chance I got. Thanks. P.J. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cudapilot at comcast.net Wed Jan 25 10:42:40 2017 From: cudapilot at comcast.net (Brian Garcia) Date: Wed, 25 Jan 2017 11:42:40 -0600 (CST) Subject: [Fot] Kastner cup at Blackhawk raceway References: I just spoke with the host hotel and there are actually still twelve rooms left in our block. As a reminder - you must tell them you are with the Friends of Triumph for the Blackhawk Classic or else the rooms will not show as available. Hampton Inn Beloit 2700 Cranston Road Beloit, WI 53511 608-362-6000http://www.beloit.hamptoninn.com Please do not hesitate to contact me with any questions. Regards, Brian Garcia Friendly Ghost Racing 847-452-2246 > On January 21, 2017 at 3:19 PM Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: > > my wife cindy and myself will be attending, coming from Australia. i have some work in WV in late may and will do a bit of holidaying in DC and then up to Toronto, before coming over to that area. > > We found the suggested motel was fully booked, but there are nearbye alternatives it seems > > if anyone needs a help beforehand or at the raceway, just yell as we are both very experienced in triumph racing . provided you live somewhere near our travels, we would be delighted to call in and lend a hand. > > look forward to finally meeting the many of you i have corresponded with over the years. > > terry o'beirne > australia > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/cudapilot at comcast.net > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fasttr4 at aol.com Wed Jan 25 12:50:24 2017 From: fasttr4 at aol.com (Bruce Lapierre) Date: Wed, 25 Jan 2017 14:50:24 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR3 restoration slide show References: <96975648.129734341.1485314871970.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net> Excellent watch. Good tutor if you want to know how to do it right. Thanks Dave -----Original Message----- From: davehogye via Fot To: Friends of Triumph Sent: Wed, Jan 25, 2017 1:52 pm Subject: [Fot] TR3 restoration slide show Hello Friends, I hope this message finds you all well. I have been wanting to put together a video slide show of my TR3 restoration and race car build for sometime. The stormy weather here on the west coast has forced me to sit down long enough to put something together. I also have a number of race weekend videos to share with you soon. The long time between fiddling with editting and downloading videos causes me to have to relearn how to get it done, so I have put them aside in frustration. I have some very good Sonoma Kastner Cup footage I think you would enjoy. Stay tuned. The music with the slide show is the Hungarian Rhapsody No.2 by Liszt. I happen to be Hungarian on my father's side, the music was open and free for use and it happened to be very close to the length of the slide show, so I thought it to be a good all around fit. I was initially looking for some jazz when I found it. Cheers, Dave Hogye https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UW-cSGzyKXs _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From william.tobin31 at verizon.net Wed Jan 25 14:37:46 2017 From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin) Date: Wed, 25 Jan 2017 16:37:46 -0500 Subject: [Fot] IH B414 Tractor References: <005901d27729$7a696e20$6f3c4a60$@rr.com> A company named Jensales, 800 443-0626, has manuals for about ant tractor you can come up with, usually factory reprints. A company named Steiner, 800 234-3280, has "New Parts For Old Tractors." www.SteinerTractor.com We have a local firm that deals in nothing but tractor parts. Good luck, the old tractors are like our old cars; lots of fun but no cheap date! Cheers, Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: Steve Yott via Fot To: 'McKearn McKearn' Cc: 'FOT Triumph' Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2017 11:38 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] IH B414 Tractor P.J. I had the privilege of rebuilding a Standard engine for a 1951 Massey Ferguson TEA-20 tractor a couple of years ago. This is the model of tractor that used the engine which was the building block for the Triumph TR2,3 and 4 engines. Although the engine has the outwardly appearance of the TR engine there were very few internal similarities. This engine used 80mm pistons so of course we bored the block recesses to accept 87mm parts! The engine generates about 20+ HP and is governed at 2200 RPM. It was a fun and educational build! Anyway, I found a great resource to antique tractor parts at Yesterdays Tractors and they have the website at yesterdaystractors.com Have fun! Steve Yott From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of McKearn McKearn via Fot Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2017 8:27 PM To: FOT list Subject: [Fot] IH B414 Tractor Hello All. I apologize for getting this far off from the usual topics but I need some input here. I am considering the purchase of an older British made tractor and am wondering if anyone out there has any experience with the International B414? They were built between 1961 and 1966 in Bradford England. I am most concerned with availability of parts. By the way I am so much looking forward to the upcoming Kastner cup at Blackhawk Farms. I call that my home track because I grew up 7 miles from the track and on weekends when the wind was blowing the right way we could here the cars racing. I was there every chance I got. Thanks. P.J. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Wed Jan 25 15:27:09 2017 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 25 Jan 2017 22:27:09 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] TR3 restoration slide show References: <96975648.129734341.1485314871970.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net> Well done Dave, very nice work. jim g ----- Original Message ----- From: "davehogye via Fot" To: "Friends of Triumph" Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2017 8:27:51 PM Subject: [Fot] TR3 restoration slide show Hello Friends, I hope this message finds you all well. I have been wanting to put together a video slide show of my TR3 restoration and race car build for sometime. The stormy weather here on the west coast has forced me to sit down long enough to put something together. I also have a number of race weekend videos to share with you soon. The long time between fiddling with editting and downloading videos causes me to have to relearn how to get it done, so I have put them aside in frustration. I have some very good Sonoma Kastner Cup footage I think you would enjoy. Stay tuned. The music with the slide show is the Hungarian Rhapsody No.2 by Liszt. I happen to be Hungarian on my father's side, the music was open and free for use and it happened to be very close to the length of the slide show, so I thought it to be a good all around fit. I was initially looking for some jazz when I found it. Cheers, Dave Hogye https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UW-cSGzyKXs _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From pvucinic at netspace.net.au Wed Jan 25 18:32:40 2017 From: pvucinic at netspace.net.au (Peter Vucinic) Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 12:32:40 +1100 Subject: [Fot] TR6 Timing Gears and Chain Hi All, Wondering if anyone know who can supply 'high' quality timing chain and sprockets for the TR6 that actually fit and work? Many thanks "You can Make a Small Fortune From Motor Racing. As long as You Started With A Lage Fortune!" Kind Regards Peter Vucinic TR4 - TR7 V8 - Spitfire MkII _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From william.tobin31 at verizon.net Wed Jan 25 19:14:57 2017 From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin) Date: Wed, 25 Jan 2017 21:14:57 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR6 Timing Gears and Chain References: TRF and Richard Goode do. Probably Uncle Ted too. I use an adjustable cam sprocket and modified a timing cover to access the sprocket:ie: cut a big hole in the cover with a large hole saw, brazed in some studs, and made a cover from some aluminum plate I had lying around. Works ok. Cheers, Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: Peter Vucinic via Fot To: 'FOT' Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2017 8:32 PM Subject: [Fot] TR6 Timing Gears and Chain Hi All, Wondering if anyone know who can supply 'high' quality timing chain and sprockets for the TR6 that actually fit and work? Many thanks "You can Make a Small Fortune From Motor Racing. As long as You Started With A Lage Fortune!" Kind Regards Peter Vucinic TR4 - TR7 V8 - Spitfire MkII _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From joealexandervintage at gmail.com Wed Jan 25 19:44:57 2017 From: joealexandervintage at gmail.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Wed, 25 Jan 2017 20:44:57 -0600 Subject: [Fot] TR3 restoration slide show References: <96975648.129734341.1485314871970.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net> <557687440.37794781.1485383229962.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net> I wonder how this would work with "Bolero"? Joe Alexander 645 1st Street Jesup, IA 50648 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711 > On Jan 25, 2017, at 4:27 PM, JIm Gray via Fot wrote: > > Well done Dave, very nice work. > jim g > > From: "davehogye via Fot" > To: "Friends of Triumph" > Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2017 8:27:51 PM > Subject: [Fot] TR3 restoration slide show > > Hello Friends, > I hope this message finds you all well. > I have been wanting to put together a video slide show of my TR3 restoration and race car build for sometime. The stormy weather here on the west coast has forced me to sit down long enough to put something together. > I also have a number of race weekend videos to share with you soon. The long time between fiddling with editting and downloading videos causes me to have to relearn how to get it done, so I have put them aside in frustration. > I have some very good Sonoma Kastner Cup footage I think you would enjoy. Stay tuned. > > The music with the slide show is the Hungarian Rhapsody No.2 by Liszt. I happen to be Hungarian on my father's side, the music was open and free for use and it happened to be very close to the length of the slide show, so I thought it to be a good all around fit. I was initially looking for some jazz when I found it. > > Cheers, > Dave Hogye > > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UW-cSGzyKXs > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/joe at the-vintage-racer.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From triumphs at consolidated.net Wed Jan 25 21:47:23 2017 From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Ken Gano) Date: Wed, 25 Jan 2017 22:47:23 -0600 Subject: [Fot] TR3 restoration slide show References: <96975648.129734341.1485314871970.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net> <557687440.37794781.1485383229962.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net> Very nice. Thanks. Ken Gano Sent from my iPad > On Jan 25, 2017, at 8:44 PM, Joe Alexander via Fot wrote: > > I wonder how this would work with "Bolero"? > > Joe Alexander > 645 1st Street > Jesup, IA 50648 > The-vintage-racer.com > Gasketinnovations.com > Cell: 319.464.4711 > >> On Jan 25, 2017, at 4:27 PM, JIm Gray via Fot wrote: >> >> Well done Dave, very nice work. >> jim g >> >> From: "davehogye via Fot" >> To: "Friends of Triumph" >> Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2017 8:27:51 PM >> Subject: [Fot] TR3 restoration slide show >> >> Hello Friends, >> I hope this message finds you all well. >> I have been wanting to put together a video slide show of my TR3 restoration and race car build for sometime. The stormy weather here on the west coast has forced me to sit down long enough to put something together. >> I also have a number of race weekend videos to share with you soon. The long time between fiddling with editting and downloading videos causes me to have to relearn how to get it done, so I have put them aside in frustration. >> I have some very good Sonoma Kastner Cup footage I think you would enjoy. Stay tuned. >> >> The music with the slide show is the Hungarian Rhapsody No.2 by Liszt. I happen to be Hungarian on my father's side, the music was open and free for use and it happened to be very close to the length of the slide show, so I thought it to be a good all around fit. I was initially looking for some jazz when I found it. >> >> Cheers, >> Dave Hogye >> >> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UW-cSGzyKXs >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/joe at the-vintage-racer.com >> >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/triumphs at consolidated.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From william.tobin31 at verizon.net Thu Jan 26 07:20:31 2017 From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin) Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 09:20:31 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR3 restoration slide show References: <96975648.129734341.1485314871970.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net> <557687440.37794781.1485383229962.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net> Nah, all I would think of would be Bo Derek. ----- Original Message ----- From: Joe Alexander via Fot To: dlhogye at icloud.com Cc: fot Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2017 9:44 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] TR3 restoration slide show I wonder how this would work with "Bolero"? Joe Alexander 645 1st Street Jesup, IA 50648 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711 On Jan 25, 2017, at 4:27 PM, JIm Gray via Fot wrote: Well done Dave, very nice work. jim g ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "davehogye via Fot" To: "Friends of Triumph" Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2017 8:27:51 PM Subject: [Fot] TR3 restoration slide show Hello Friends, I hope this message finds you all well. I have been wanting to put together a video slide show of my TR3 restoration and race car build for sometime. The stormy weather here on the west coast has forced me to sit down long enough to put something together. I also have a number of race weekend videos to share with you soon. The long time between fiddling with editting and downloading videos causes me to have to relearn how to get it done, so I have put them aside in frustration. I have some very good Sonoma Kastner Cup footage I think you would enjoy. Stay tuned. The music with the slide show is the Hungarian Rhapsody No.2 by Liszt. I happen to be Hungarian on my father's side, the music was open and free for use and it happened to be very close to the length of the slide show, so I thought it to be a good all around fit. I was initially looking for some jazz when I found it. Cheers, Dave Hogye https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UW-cSGzyKXs _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/joe at the-vintage-racer.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jason at multivintage.com Thu Jan 26 08:04:45 2017 From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski) Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 09:04:45 -0600 Subject: [Fot] TR3 restoration slide show References: <96975648.129734341.1485314871970.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net> Bravo. A wonderful documentary. It sure pays to do it right the first time. Obviously your work is awesome. Aside, perhaps the most impressive aspect is the completeness of the documentation itself. Testament to the value of taking a few moments regularly to snap a few photos. I gotta remember to keep some film in the old Polaroid. Thanks for the post! Jason Ostrowski Friendly Ghost Racing 1969 Triumph GT6+ race cars Sent from my iPhone > On Jan 24, 2017, at 9:27 PM, davehogye via Fot wrote: > > Hello Friends, > I hope this message finds you all well. > I have been wanting to put together a video slide show of my TR3 restoration and race car build for sometime. The stormy weather here on the west coast has forced me to sit down long enough to put something together. > I also have a number of race weekend videos to share with you soon. The long time between fiddling with editting and downloading videos causes me to have to relearn how to get it done, so I have put them aside in frustration. > I have some very good Sonoma Kastner Cup footage I think you would enjoy. Stay tuned. > > The music with the slide show is the Hungarian Rhapsody No.2 by Liszt. I happen to be Hungarian on my father's side, the music was open and free for use and it happened to be very close to the length of the slide show, so I thought it to be a good all around fit. I was initially looking for some jazz when I found it. > > Cheers, > Dave Hogye > > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UW-cSGzyKXs > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Fri Jan 27 08:19:46 2017 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (jerryvv at roadrunner.com) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 10:19:46 -0500 Subject: [Fot] VIR Hello Is there an event in the spring at VIR? I only see an HSR Event in June listed on VIR's web site. Thanks, JVV From sjanzen at me.com Fri Jan 27 09:26:26 2017 From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 11:26:26 -0500 Subject: [Fot] VIR References: <20170127151946.U0YBF.27366.root@cdptpa-web18> look at the VCDA and VRG websites - April 7-9 On Jan 27, 2017, at 10:19 AM, Jerry Van Vlack via Fot wrote: Hello Is there an event in the spring at VIR? I only see an HSR Event in June listed on VIR's web site. Thanks, JVV _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mckearn2 at gmail.com Fri Jan 27 09:54:43 2017 From: mckearn2 at gmail.com (McKearn McKearn) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 10:54:43 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Old tractor Hi All. Thanks for the input on the tractor. I checked out the websites you recommended and decided to go ahead and make the purchase. Now I need to get it home. One thing at a time. Thanks again. P.J. Go GT6 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Fri Jan 27 10:20:27 2017 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (jerryvv at roadrunner.com) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 12:20:27 -0500 Subject: [Fot] VIR Thanks to everyone who responded, I'd like to spectate, hope I can make it this year. Usually a number of WPTA members attend. One or two also race. JVV ---- Jerry Van Vlack via Fot wrote: Hello Is there an event in the spring at VIR? I only see an HSR Event in June listed on VIR's web site. Thanks, JVV _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com Fri Jan 27 10:37:56 2017 From: Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com (Spitfire Racing) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 12:37:56 -0500 Subject: [Fot] VIR References: <20170127151946.U0YBF.27366.root@cdptpa-web18> Mike Jackson's group VDCA has the Wild Hare in April. April 7-9 The Fifteenth Annual Wild Hare Run at VIR Website at: http://www.vintagedrive.com/ And for those looking for a shorter drive from the New England area to a vintage event in June there is the Canadian Vintage Grand Prix at Mosport International, now called Canadian Tire Motorsport Park. It is the site for the annual Triumph/MG Challenge. Unfortunately the K Cup was scheduled for the same weekend which will split the attendees of both events. Mosport is magical as anyone that has been there will attest to. Free parking and free camping with full access to the track and paddock. There's a huge car show on the grounds at the same time, ehh! Russ Moore Spitfire #49 -----Original Message----- From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jerry Van Vlack via Fot Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 10:20 AM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] VIR Hello Is there an event in the spring at VIR? I only see an HSR Event in June listed on VIR's web site. Thanks, JVV _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/spitfire_racing at twcny.rr.com From tony at tonydrews.com Fri Jan 27 11:06:34 2017 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 12:06:34 -0600 Subject: [Fot] VIR References: <20170127151946.U0YBF.27366.root@cdptpa-web18> VDCA Wild Hare race is April 7-9, that's become an annual trek for me. Regards, Tony At 09:19 AM 1/27/2017, Jerry Van Vlack via Fot wrote: >Hello > >Is there an event in the spring at VIR? I only see an HSR Event in >June listed on VIR's web site. > >Thanks, > >JVV >_______________________________________________ >fot at autox.team.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com From grandwazoo at earthlink.net Fri Jan 27 12:32:25 2017 From: grandwazoo at earthlink.net (Mike Jackson) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 14:32:25 -0500 (GMT-05:00) Subject: [Fot] VIR An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From pvucinic at netspace.net.au Sat Jan 28 01:36:59 2017 From: pvucinic at netspace.net.au (Peter Vucinic) Date: Sat, 28 Jan 2017 19:36:59 +1100 Subject: [Fot] TR6 Clutch Slave Cylinder Position Hi All, I am chasing a few dimension of the location of the Clutch Slave Cylinder on the TR6 engine. Hoping someone will be able to assist as it will save me quite a bit of time assembling up and engine and gearbox! I'm building a 'winged' race sump for the 6cyl and am trying to figure out how much room I need to leave for the clutch slave cylinder. Just need some rough measurements to get me going! Many thanks "You can Make a Small Fortune From Motor Racing. As long as You Started With A Lage Fortune!" Kind Regards Peter Vucinic TR4 - TR7 V8 - Spitfire MkII _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: TR6_Engine_Slave_Cylinder_Dimensions.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 58132 bytes Desc: not available URL: From awashatko at wi.rr.com Sat Jan 28 10:08:56 2017 From: awashatko at wi.rr.com (Allen Washatko) Date: Sat, 28 Jan 2017 11:08:56 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Measurement FoT, Can anyone give me measurements for the bore rings found on a stock TR6 engine block? I need the overall diameter and the depth of the ring. Thanks for any assistance. Best, Allen TR6 - #6 Jody & Allen Washatko W51 N664 Highland Drive Cedarburg, WI 53012 From gt6steve at aol.com Sat Jan 28 12:44:45 2017 From: gt6steve at aol.com (gt6steve at aol.com) Date: Sat, 28 Jan 2017 14:44:45 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Measurement References: <80B09695-CF12-4A00-B66A-801B8628DE82@wi.rr.com> 3.235x.025x6 -----Original Message----- From: Allen Washatko via Fot To: Fot Sent: Sat, Jan 28, 2017 11:20 am Subject: [Fot] Measurement FoT, Can anyone give me measurements for the bore rings found on a stock TR6 engine block? I need the overall diameter and the depth of the ring. Thanks for any assistance. Best, Allen TR6 - #6 Jody & Allen Washatko W51 N664 Highland Drive Cedarburg, WI 53012 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au Sat Jan 28 16:03:06 2017 From: enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au (Enquiries Road & Track) Date: Sun, 29 Jan 2017 09:03:06 +1000 Subject: [Fot] measurement my catalogue says Std Bore Size2.940" Top Ring Width5/64" (0.078") 2nd Ring Width5/64" (0.078") Oil Ring Width5/32" (0.156") terry -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From levilevi at comcast.net Sat Jan 28 22:02:01 2017 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Sat, 28 Jan 2017 22:02:01 -0700 Subject: [Fot] How much electrical power is needed for a 30 minute race. How much battery is needed to run a Spitfire for a 30 minute race without an alternator, in terms of amps, or current needed. I've been looking at lighter weight batteries like the Braile and don't have a good idea of what reserve capacity is needed. Is 35 minutes enough with a battery capacity of (C/20 rate): 21 amp/hr. Fuel pump, ignition, some Gage's, and LED brake lights are the biggest draws on the battery. Thanks for any suggestions. Bud Sent from my Commodore 64 From rocky at spitfire4.com Sat Jan 28 22:54:46 2017 From: rocky at spitfire4.com (Rocky Entriken) Date: Sat, 28 Jan 2017 23:54:46 -0600 Subject: [Fot] How much electrical power is needed for a 30 minute race. References: <29617FF3-80D4-403A-A22A-29F85F94A865@comcast.net> I never bothered with the lightweight battery in my Spitfire (no generator/alternator) because I needed the ballast anyway, so I moved mine to the right side of the shelf behind the seat for better weight balance. In fact, I got a heavier marine battery for the extra storage. My car has electronic ignition, starter, two fuel pumps, tach, transponder, four brake lights (none of my other gauges are electric) That said, I found a fully charged battery would last me about a day and a half. So for a weekend I had two batteries and I'd change it out overnight. A two-day autocross weekend seemed to use it up more than a two-day race weekend. Actually, for a race weekend, one battery would probably last, but why take chances? Hitting the starter sucks the most juice and I sure didn't want it to fail to start just when I got the 2-minute warning for Sunday's race (it's done that)! OTOH I've found that once started it'll do the whole race with nearly no charge -- did that once when I had to get a push start off the grid. None of the other stuff including sparkplugs suck much juice. --Rocky Entriken -----Original Message----- From: Bud Rolofson via Fot Sent: Saturday, January 28, 2017 11:02 PM To: FOT Subject: [Fot] How much electrical power is needed for a 30 minute race. How much battery is needed to run a Spitfire for a 30 minute race without an alternator, in terms of amps, or current needed. I've been looking at lighter weight batteries like the Braile and don't have a good idea of what reserve capacity is needed. Is 35 minutes enough with a battery capacity of (C/20 rate): 21 amp/hr. Fuel pump, ignition, some Gage's, and LED brake lights are the biggest draws on the battery. Thanks for any suggestions. Bud Sent from my Commodore 64 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rocky at spitfire4.com From tr4racing at googlemail.com Sun Jan 29 02:51:20 2017 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx) Date: Sun, 29 Jan 2017 10:51:20 +0100 Subject: [Fot] How much electrical power is needed for a 30 minute race. References: <29617FF3-80D4-403A-A22A-29F85F94A865@comcast.net> <76EE633406E848E5B6CFDC44189E0ED2@Rocky> The main point is not so much, that a battery last 30 minutes. It is the electrical current, what is important. If you consume power from your battery, then the electrical system runs at 12-11.5V. If your charger is in action your system runs on 13.5-14.5V. This means, the ignition output is a lot higher and the engine makes more power. Cheers Chris -----Urspr?ngliche Nachricht----- Von: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Rocky Entriken via Fot Gesendet: Sonntag, 29. Januar 2017 06:55 An: Bud Rolofson; FOT Betreff: Re: [Fot] How much electrical power is needed for a 30 minute race. I never bothered with the lightweight battery in my Spitfire (no generator/alternator) because I needed the ballast anyway, so I moved mine to the right side of the shelf behind the seat for better weight balance. In fact, I got a heavier marine battery for the extra storage. My car has electronic ignition, starter, two fuel pumps, tach, transponder, four brake lights (none of my other gauges are electric) That said, I found a fully charged battery would last me about a day and a half. So for a weekend I had two batteries and I'd change it out overnight. A two-day autocross weekend seemed to use it up more than a two-day race weekend. Actually, for a race weekend, one battery would probably last, but why take chances? Hitting the starter sucks the most juice and I sure didn't want it to fail to start just when I got the 2-minute warning for Sunday's race (it's done that)! OTOH I've found that once started it'll do the whole race with nearly no charge -- did that once when I had to get a push start off the grid. None of the other stuff including sparkplugs suck much juice. --Rocky Entriken -----Original Message----- From: Bud Rolofson via Fot Sent: Saturday, January 28, 2017 11:02 PM To: FOT Subject: [Fot] How much electrical power is needed for a 30 minute race. How much battery is needed to run a Spitfire for a 30 minute race without an alternator, in terms of amps, or current needed. I've been looking at lighter weight batteries like the Braile and don't have a good idea of what reserve capacity is needed. Is 35 minutes enough with a battery capacity of (C/20 rate): 21 amp/hr. Fuel pump, ignition, some Gage's, and LED brake lights are the biggest draws on the battery. Thanks for any suggestions. Bud Sent from my Commodore 64 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rocky at spitfire4.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com From tr4racing at googlemail.com Sun Jan 29 07:11:07 2017 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx) Date: Sun, 29 Jan 2017 15:11:07 +0100 Subject: [Fot] How much electrical power is needed for a 30 minute race. References: <29617FF3-80D4-403A-A22A-29F85F94A865@comcast.net> <76EE633406E848E5B6CFDC44189E0ED2@Rocky> <000301d27a15$4028e710$c07ab530$@com> <000901d27a38$431bfa70$c953ef50$@bellsouth.net> For sure it does! I see it on laptimes if the charger fades during a race and I also had a dyno test on this issue. Especially on top end revs the lower voltage kicking down the power of the coil. Cheers Chris -----Urspr?ngliche Nachricht----- Von: Richard Taylor [mailto:tarch at bellsouth.net] Gesendet: Sonntag, 29. Januar 2017 15:02 An: 'MadMarx'; 'Rocky Entriken'; 'Bud Rolofson' Betreff: RE: [Fot] How much electrical power is needed for a 30 minute race. Does a 14V spark ignite a gas-charge bigger, faster, better than a 12V spark? -----Original Message----- From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of MadMarx via Fot Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2017 4:51 AM To: 'Rocky Entriken'; 'Bud Rolofson'; fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] How much electrical power is needed for a 30 minute race. The main point is not so much, that a battery last 30 minutes. It is the electrical current, what is important. If you consume power from your battery, then the electrical system runs at 12-11.5V. If your charger is in action your system runs on 13.5-14.5V. This means, the ignition output is a lot higher and the engine makes more power. Cheers Chris -----Urspr?ngliche Nachricht----- Von: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Rocky Entriken via Fot Gesendet: Sonntag, 29. Januar 2017 06:55 An: Bud Rolofson; FOT Betreff: Re: [Fot] How much electrical power is needed for a 30 minute race. I never bothered with the lightweight battery in my Spitfire (no generator/alternator) because I needed the ballast anyway, so I moved mine to the right side of the shelf behind the seat for better weight balance. In fact, I got a heavier marine battery for the extra storage. My car has electronic ignition, starter, two fuel pumps, tach, transponder, four brake lights (none of my other gauges are electric) That said, I found a fully charged battery would last me about a day and a half. So for a weekend I had two batteries and I'd change it out overnight. A two-day autocross weekend seemed to use it up more than a two-day race weekend. Actually, for a race weekend, one battery would probably last, but why take chances? Hitting the starter sucks the most juice and I sure didn't want it to fail to start just when I got the 2-minute warning for Sunday's race (it's done that)! OTOH I've found that once started it'll do the whole race with nearly no charge -- did that once when I had to get a push start off the grid. None of the other stuff including sparkplugs suck much juice. --Rocky Entriken -----Original Message----- From: Bud Rolofson via Fot Sent: Saturday, January 28, 2017 11:02 PM To: FOT Subject: [Fot] How much electrical power is needed for a 30 minute race. How much battery is needed to run a Spitfire for a 30 minute race without an alternator, in terms of amps, or current needed. I've been looking at lighter weight batteries like the Braile and don't have a good idea of what reserve capacity is needed. Is 35 minutes enough with a battery capacity of (C/20 rate): 21 amp/hr. Fuel pump, ignition, some Gage's, and LED brake lights are the biggest draws on the battery. Thanks for any suggestions. Bud Sent from my Commodore 64 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rocky at spitfire4.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tarch at bellsouth.net From tr4racing at googlemail.com Sun Jan 29 07:17:10 2017 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx) Date: Sun, 29 Jan 2017 15:17:10 +0100 Subject: [Fot] How much electrical power is needed for a 30 minute race. References: <29617FF3-80D4-403A-A22A-29F85F94A865@comcast.net> <76EE633406E848E5B6CFDC44189E0ED2@Rocky> <000301d27a15$4028e710$c07ab530$@com> <000901d27a38$431bfa70$c953ef50$@bellsouth.net> Once on the TR8 the changer failed and the car was running on battery. Even with a 65ah battery the car started misfiring from 6000 rpm onwards. I couldn't address this issue but after the car didn't start after the run anymore I knew something has happened to the alternator. After a repair the engine power was back. For sure this is more evident on a V8 with a single coil ignition than on a 4 cylinder, but as the old lady said, while peeing to the ocean: Every bit counts. Cheers Chris -----Urspr?ngliche Nachricht----- Von: Richard Taylor [mailto:tarch at bellsouth.net] Gesendet: Sonntag, 29. Januar 2017 15:02 An: 'MadMarx'; 'Rocky Entriken'; 'Bud Rolofson' Betreff: RE: [Fot] How much electrical power is needed for a 30 minute race. Does a 14V spark ignite a gas-charge bigger, faster, better than a 12V spark? -----Original Message----- From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of MadMarx via Fot Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2017 4:51 AM To: 'Rocky Entriken'; 'Bud Rolofson'; fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] How much electrical power is needed for a 30 minute race. The main point is not so much, that a battery last 30 minutes. It is the electrical current, what is important. If you consume power from your battery, then the electrical system runs at 12-11.5V. If your charger is in action your system runs on 13.5-14.5V. This means, the ignition output is a lot higher and the engine makes more power. Cheers Chris -----Urspr?ngliche Nachricht----- Von: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Rocky Entriken via Fot Gesendet: Sonntag, 29. Januar 2017 06:55 An: Bud Rolofson; FOT Betreff: Re: [Fot] How much electrical power is needed for a 30 minute race. I never bothered with the lightweight battery in my Spitfire (no generator/alternator) because I needed the ballast anyway, so I moved mine to the right side of the shelf behind the seat for better weight balance. In fact, I got a heavier marine battery for the extra storage. My car has electronic ignition, starter, two fuel pumps, tach, transponder, four brake lights (none of my other gauges are electric) That said, I found a fully charged battery would last me about a day and a half. So for a weekend I had two batteries and I'd change it out overnight. A two-day autocross weekend seemed to use it up more than a two-day race weekend. Actually, for a race weekend, one battery would probably last, but why take chances? Hitting the starter sucks the most juice and I sure didn't want it to fail to start just when I got the 2-minute warning for Sunday's race (it's done that)! OTOH I've found that once started it'll do the whole race with nearly no charge -- did that once when I had to get a push start off the grid. None of the other stuff including sparkplugs suck much juice. --Rocky Entriken -----Original Message----- From: Bud Rolofson via Fot Sent: Saturday, January 28, 2017 11:02 PM To: FOT Subject: [Fot] How much electrical power is needed for a 30 minute race. How much battery is needed to run a Spitfire for a 30 minute race without an alternator, in terms of amps, or current needed. I've been looking at lighter weight batteries like the Braile and don't have a good idea of what reserve capacity is needed. Is 35 minutes enough with a battery capacity of (C/20 rate): 21 amp/hr. Fuel pump, ignition, some Gage's, and LED brake lights are the biggest draws on the battery. Thanks for any suggestions. Bud Sent from my Commodore 64 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rocky at spitfire4.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tarch at bellsouth.net From rick.parent at att.net Sun Jan 29 07:57:21 2017 From: rick.parent at att.net (Rick Parent) Date: Sun, 29 Jan 2017 14:57:21 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] SVRA at Amelia Island References: <217047935.1226519.1485701841443.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Greetings Drivers, I would personally like to invite you to our 2nd event at the Amelia Island Airport. We are trying to recreate a race that was happening in the 60's, we even have a couple drivers who actually ran the event with one using the very same car. I really enjoyed the race last year, it is unique in the sense that the weather was wonderful, plenty of great restaurants and hotels not to mention the beach, and it was warm enough to sit in the sand which I did. The Amelia Island Concours is the weekend before which should help when trying to convince to the wife to get away from the cold for a week or so, oh yeah, there is some great shopping for the checkbook holder as well (think bribery here). As a side note this was the only event I have ever been to where on 2 separate occasions wives came up to me and said they were really enjoying themselves, nice. It is a small event and the spectators were great for the first year, this year should be even better. We can certainly set up the traditional Triumph Ghetto but we will have to whisper that though ;-). Yes it is an Airport course but I didn't hear any complaints and in fact the 129 racers really enjoyed themselves, some hay bales got trashed and we only had one solo incident. So anyone who is sick of the cold here is your invitation to enjoy Springtime in the middle of Winter with some great race car sounds, sights and smells, I mean really, who doesn't like the smell of race gas in the Springtime. 2017 Amelia Island Vintage Gran Prix | SVRA | | | | | | | | | | | 2017 Amelia Island Vintage Gran Prix | SVRA ? 2017 Amelia Island Vintage Gran Prix | Sportscar Vintage Racing Association | | | | All the best! -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tlizzard at msn.com Sun Jan 29 08:12:31 2017 From: tlizzard at msn.com (Terry Stetler) Date: Sun, 29 Jan 2017 15:12:31 +0000 Subject: [Fot] How much electrical power is needed for a 30 minute race. References: <29617FF3-80D4-403A-A22A-29F85F94A865@comcast.net> <76EE633406E848E5B6CFDC44189E0ED2@Rocky> <000301d27a15$4028e710$c07ab530$@com> <000901d27a38$431bfa70$c953ef50$@bellsouth.net>, <001c01d27a39$8af3e550$a0dbaff0$@com> Gents, I have not seen it mentioned in this discussion yet, but some electronic ignitions (all?) have a voltage floor that they simply will not operate under. This may not be a concern in the majority of our sprint length vintage races, but if you are contemplating running an ?enduro? length race it could very well be an issue. With all the light and efficient options now available for alternators out there I just don?t see any downside at all in running one. Terry Stetler Sent from Mail for Windows 10 Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2017 9:55 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] How much electrical power is needed for a 30 minute race. For sure it does! I see it on laptimes if the charger fades during a race and I also had a dyno test on this issue. Especially on top end revs the lower voltage kicking down the power of the coil. Cheers Chris -----Urspr?ngliche Nachricht----- Von: Richard Taylor [mailto:tarch at bellsouth.net] Gesendet: Sonntag, 29. Januar 2017 15:02 An: 'MadMarx'; 'Rocky Entriken'; 'Bud Rolofson' Betreff: RE: [Fot] How much electrical power is needed for a 30 minute race. Does a 14V spark ignite a gas-charge bigger, faster, better than a 12V spark? -----Original Message----- From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of MadMarx via Fot Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2017 4:51 AM To: 'Rocky Entriken'; 'Bud Rolofson'; fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] How much electrical power is needed for a 30 minute race. The main point is not so much, that a battery last 30 minutes. It is the electrical current, what is important. If you consume power from your battery, then the electrical system runs at 12-11.5V. If your charger is in action your system runs on 13.5-14.5V. This means, the ignition output is a lot higher and the engine makes more power. Cheers Chris -----Urspr?ngliche Nachricht----- Von: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Rocky Entriken via Fot Gesendet: Sonntag, 29. Januar 2017 06:55 An: Bud Rolofson; FOT Betreff: Re: [Fot] How much electrical power is needed for a 30 minute race. I never bothered with the lightweight battery in my Spitfire (no generator/alternator) because I needed the ballast anyway, so I moved mine to the right side of the shelf behind the seat for better weight balance. In fact, I got a heavier marine battery for the extra storage. My car has electronic ignition, starter, two fuel pumps, tach, transponder, four brake lights (none of my other gauges are electric) That said, I found a fully charged battery would last me about a day and a half. So for a weekend I had two batteries and I'd change it out overnight. A two-day autocross weekend seemed to use it up more than a two-day race weekend. Actually, for a race weekend, one battery would probably last, but why take chances? Hitting the starter sucks the most juice and I sure didn't want it to fail to start just when I got the 2-minute warning for Sunday's race (it's done that)! OTOH I've found that once started it'll do the whole race with nearly no charge -- did that once when I had to get a push start off the grid. None of the other stuff including sparkplugs suck much juice. --Rocky Entriken -----Original Message----- From: Bud Rolofson via Fot Sent: Saturday, January 28, 2017 11:02 PM To: FOT Subject: [Fot] How much electrical power is needed for a 30 minute race. How much battery is needed to run a Spitfire for a 30 minute race without an alternator, in terms of amps, or current needed. I've been looking at lighter weight batteries like the Braile and don't have a good idea of what reserve capacity is needed. Is 35 minutes enough with a battery capacity of (C/20 rate): 21 amp/hr. Fuel pump, ignition, some Gage's, and LED brake lights are the biggest draws on the battery. Thanks for any suggestions. Bud Sent from my Commodore 64 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rocky at spitfire4.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tarch at bellsouth.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com Sun Jan 29 08:52:16 2017 From: robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com (Robert Lang) Date: Sun, 29 Jan 2017 15:52:16 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Sources for Pauter Rods References: <1803998878.1268238.1485705136957.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Hi, I know you can get Pauter rods from Pauter directly, but are there retailers that sell them? Regards,Bob Lang339-927-4489 (if you call, leave a message, please) -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jaboruch at netzero.net Sun Jan 29 10:44:14 2017 From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch) Date: Sun, 29 Jan 2017 17:44:14 GMT Subject: [Fot] How much electrical power is needed for a 30 minute race. I initially raced my TR3 with an Odyssey PC 925 battery (weighs 26#), which I never had a problem with, but I would charge it after each track session. These and other lightweight batteries need a special charger. I installed an alternator after some research indicated that an engine will make more power with a higher system input voltage. Now using a PC680 battery, which weighs 15#. Joe(B) ____________________________________________________________ Warning: Don't Use Probiotics Before You See This Gundry MD http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/588e2a45ad3172a4517cdst51duc -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From emanteno at comcast.net Sun Jan 29 11:14:56 2017 From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey) Date: Sun, 29 Jan 2017 12:14:56 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Sources for Pauter Rods References: <1803998878.1268238.1485705136957.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1803998878.1268238.1485705136957@mail.yahoo.com> On Sun, Jan 29, 2017 at 9:52 AM, Robert Lang via Fot wrote: > Hi, > > I know you can get Pauter rods from Pauter directly, but are there > retailers that sell them? > > Regards, > Bob Lang > 339-927-4489 (if you call, leave a message, please) > I bought mine here: https://www.nolimitmotorsport.com/prod/PAU-TRI-206-513-1460F6 NFI Irv Korey -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From triosan at gmail.com Sun Jan 29 11:24:20 2017 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley) Date: Sun, 29 Jan 2017 10:24:20 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Sources for Pauter Rods References: <1803998878.1268238.1485705136957.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1803998878.1268238.1485705136957@mail.yahoo.com> Got mine from Pauter On Jan 29, 2017 9:48 AM, "Robert Lang via Fot" wrote: > Hi, > > I know you can get Pauter rods from Pauter directly, but are there > retailers that sell them? > > Regards, > Bob Lang > 339-927-4489 <(339)%20927-4489> (if you call, leave a message, please) > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/fot/triosan at gmail.com > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From johnstydo at gmail.com Sun Jan 29 13:12:32 2017 From: johnstydo at gmail.com (John Styduhar) Date: Sun, 29 Jan 2017 15:12:32 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Sources for Pauter Rods References: <1803998878.1268238.1485705136957.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1803998878.1268238.1485705136957@mail.yahoo.com> Yes, but who are you going back to if they don't fit? I've bought two sets of rods from Pauter and their price and service are great. They will make custom rod lengths for the wet liner at the stock price, too. On Sun, Jan 29, 2017 at 1:14 PM, Irv Korey via Fot wrote: > > > On Sun, Jan 29, 2017 at 9:52 AM, Robert Lang via Fot > wrote: > >> Hi, >> >> I know you can get Pauter rods from Pauter directly, but are there >> retailers that sell them? >> >> Regards, >> Bob Lang >> 339-927-4489 <(339)%20927-4489> (if you call, leave a message, please) >> > > I bought mine here: > > https://www.nolimitmotorsport.com/prod/PAU-TRI-206-513-1460F6 > > NFI > > Irv Korey > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/fot/johnstydo at gmail.com > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From emanteno at comcast.net Sun Jan 29 13:38:47 2017 From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey) Date: Sun, 29 Jan 2017 14:38:47 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Sources for Pauter Rods References: <1803998878.1268238.1485705136957.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1803998878.1268238.1485705136957@mail.yahoo.com> Why wouldn't they fit? They are still Pauter rods. Irv Korey On Jan 29, 2017 2:12 PM, "John Styduhar" wrote: > Yes, but who are you going back to if they don't fit? I've bought two > sets of rods from Pauter and their price and service are great. They will > make custom rod lengths for the wet liner at the stock price, too. > > On Sun, Jan 29, 2017 at 1:14 PM, Irv Korey via Fot > wrote: > >> >> >> On Sun, Jan 29, 2017 at 9:52 AM, Robert Lang via Fot >> wrote: >> >>> Hi, >>> >>> I know you can get Pauter rods from Pauter directly, but are there >>> retailers that sell them? >>> >>> Regards, >>> Bob Lang >>> 339-927-4489 <(339)%20927-4489> (if you call, leave a message, please) >>> >> >> I bought mine here: >> >> https://www.nolimitmotorsport.com/prod/PAU-TRI-206-513-1460F6 >> >> NFI >> >> Irv Korey >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/fot/johnstydo at gmail.com >> >> >> >> > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rek46 at aol.com Sun Jan 29 14:34:58 2017 From: rek46 at aol.com (=?utf-8?B?cmVrNDZAYW9sLmNvbQ==?=) Date: Sun, 29 Jan 2017 16:34:58 -0500 Subject: [Fot] =?utf-8?q?How_much_electrical_power_is_needed_for_a_30_minu?= =?utf-8?q?te_race=2E?= We ran. Braille all last year....NO probs. Expensive....but awesome light...lemme know maybe we can do a deal Sent from my HTC on the Now Networkxpe from Sprint! ----- Reply message ----- From: "Bud Rolofson via Fot" Date: Sun, Jan 29, 2017 12:02 am Subject: [Fot] How much electrical power is needed for a 30 minute race. To: "FOT" How much battery is needed to run a Spitfire for a 30 minute race without an alternator, in terms of amps, or current needed. I've been looking at lighter weight batteries like the Braile and don't have a good idea of what reserve capacity is needed. Is 35 minutes enough with a battery capacity of (C/20 rate): 21 amp/hr. Fuel pump, ignition, some Gage's, and LED brake lights are the biggest draws on the battery. Thanks for any suggestions. Bud Sent from my Commodore 64 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From lorne.fritz at gmail.com Sun Jan 29 15:32:16 2017 From: lorne.fritz at gmail.com (Lorne Fritz) Date: Sun, 29 Jan 2017 17:32:16 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR3 hardtop drip rails Hi, Does anybody have or know of a place to buy drip rails(the chrome trim over the side curtains) for a TR2/3 hardtop? Thanks Lorne From johnstydo at gmail.com Sun Jan 29 16:51:00 2017 From: johnstydo at gmail.com (John Styduhar) Date: Sun, 29 Jan 2017 18:51:00 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Sources for Pauter Rods References: <1803998878.1268238.1485705136957.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1803998878.1268238.1485705136957@mail.yahoo.com> I sent my pistons and wrist pins directly to Pauter before they made the rods to make sure they honed the little ends to the correct clearance. You can't do that with a go-between. On Sun, Jan 29, 2017 at 3:38 PM, Irv Korey wrote: > Why wouldn't they fit? > > They are still Pauter rods. > > Irv Korey > > > > On Jan 29, 2017 2:12 PM, "John Styduhar" wrote: > >> Yes, but who are you going back to if they don't fit? I've bought two >> sets of rods from Pauter and their price and service are great. They will >> make custom rod lengths for the wet liner at the stock price, too. >> >> On Sun, Jan 29, 2017 at 1:14 PM, Irv Korey via Fot >> wrote: >> >>> >>> >>> On Sun, Jan 29, 2017 at 9:52 AM, Robert Lang via Fot >> > wrote: >>> >>>> Hi, >>>> >>>> I know you can get Pauter rods from Pauter directly, but are there >>>> retailers that sell them? >>>> >>>> Regards, >>>> Bob Lang >>>> 339-927-4489 <(339)%20927-4489> (if you call, leave a message, please) >>>> >>> >>> I bought mine here: >>> >>> https://www.nolimitmotorsport.com/prod/PAU-TRI-206-513-1460F6 >>> >>> NFI >>> >>> Irv Korey >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >>> options/fot/johnstydo at gmail.com >>> >>> >>> >>> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vandecarr at aol.com Sun Jan 29 18:00:59 2017 From: vandecarr at aol.com (Dean) Date: Sun, 29 Jan 2017 20:00:59 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Sources for Pauter Rods References: <1803998878.1268238.1485705136957.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1803998878.1268238.1485705136957@mail.yahoo.com> Years ago I bought Pauter rods and the wrist pin clearance was too tight. My machinist took care of the problem. I guess it pays to check. Other than that they were fine. Dean VanDeCarr Sent from my iPhone > On Jan 29, 2017, at 3:38 PM, Irv Korey via Fot wrote: > > Why wouldn't they fit? > > They are still Pauter rods. > > Irv Korey > > > >> On Jan 29, 2017 2:12 PM, "John Styduhar" wrote: >> Yes, but who are you going back to if they don't fit? I've bought two sets of rods from Pauter and their price and service are great. They will make custom rod lengths for the wet liner at the stock price, too. >> >>> On Sun, Jan 29, 2017 at 1:14 PM, Irv Korey via Fot wrote: >>> >>> >>>> On Sun, Jan 29, 2017 at 9:52 AM, Robert Lang via Fot wrote: >>>> Hi, >>>> >>>> I know you can get Pauter rods from Pauter directly, but are there retailers that sell them? >>>> >>>> Regards, >>>> Bob Lang >>>> 339-927-4489 (if you call, leave a message, please) >>> >>> I bought mine here: >>> >>> https://www.nolimitmotorsport.com/prod/PAU-TRI-206-513-1460F6 >>> >>> NFI >>> >>> Irv Korey >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/johnstydo at gmail.com >>> >>> >>> >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vandecarr at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mckearn2 at gmail.com Sun Jan 29 19:39:47 2017 From: mckearn2 at gmail.com (McKearn McKearn) Date: Sun, 29 Jan 2017 20:39:47 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Cam gear Hi All. Can you recommend a lightweight adjustable cam gear for GT6-TR6 engine? Thanks. P.J. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From charly at mitchelplumbing.com Sun Jan 29 22:11:37 2017 From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly) Date: Sun, 29 Jan 2017 23:11:37 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Cam gear http://www.bpnorthwest.com/triumph/gt6/engine-main-components/camshaft-timing-components/cam-gear-vernier-dual-tr6.html Charly Mitchel TR6 #44 On Sun 29/01/17 6:39 PM , McKearn McKearn via Fot fot at autox.team.net sent: > Hi All.? Can you recommend a lightweight adjustable cam gear for > GT6-TR6 engine?? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?Thanks.? P.J. > From dlhogye at comcast.net Sun Jan 29 22:26:22 2017 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye) Date: Mon, 30 Jan 2017 05:26:22 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] TR3 hardtop drip rails References: Lorne, I doubt that you will find the drip rail from Triumph parts suppliers. Moss says NA. It is a polished, perhaps plated or anodized, aluminum piece that can probably be replicated from a strip of aluminum with a short rolled edge. I have a top with the drip rail in tack if you'd like a photo or two. // Dave H. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lorne Fritz via Fot" To: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2017 2:32:16 PM Subject: [Fot] TR3 hardtop drip rails Hi, Does anybody have or know of a place to buy drip rails(the chrome trim over the side curtains) for a TR2/3 hardtop? Thanks Lorne _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From explore8 at outlook.com Mon Jan 30 10:05:50 2017 From: explore8 at outlook.com (D V) Date: Mon, 30 Jan 2017 17:05:50 +0000 Subject: [Fot] How much electrical power is needed for a 30 minute race. References: <20170130005236.D8FB625881D4@autox.team.net> I also run a Braille lightweight battery and a mini alternator. The only issue I had was running the fan for 30 min on the grid drained the battery. Other than that, no issues. Sent from my iPhone We ran. Braille all last year....NO probs. Expensive....but awesome light...lemme know maybe we can do a deal Sent from my HTC on the Now Networkxpe from Sprint! ----- Reply message ----- Date: Sun, Jan 29, 2017 12:02 am Subject: [Fot] How much electrical power is needed for a 30 minute race. How much battery is needed to run a Spitfire for a 30 minute race without an alternator, in terms of amps, or current needed. I've been looking at lighter weight batteries like the Braile and don't have a good idea of what reserve capacity is needed. Is 35 minutes enough with a battery capacity of (C/20 rate): 21 amp/hr. Fuel pump, ignition, some Gage's, and LED brake lights are the biggest draws on the battery. Thanks for any suggestions. Bud Sent from my Commodore 64 _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From johnstydo at gmail.com Mon Jan 30 16:59:40 2017 From: johnstydo at gmail.com (John Styduhar) Date: Mon, 30 Jan 2017 18:59:40 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Contact with Wishbone Classics Amici, has anyone been able to contact Kai Radicke, owner of Wishbone Classics? I and others have had no pickup by phone or response to e-mails from Kai in the last few weeks. Wondering if he is still in business or something has happened to him. Thanks -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sjanzen at me.com Mon Jan 30 18:36:38 2017 From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen) Date: Mon, 30 Jan 2017 20:36:38 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Contact with Wishbone Classics References: I called and spoke to him Friday. I had left him a message several days earlier and sent an email. He apologized and said he'd been swamped for the past week or so. Keep trying! All I can tell you is I've consistently had great experience with him and his parts. And, my new pistons are on schedule. Sent from my iPhone > On Jan 30, 2017, at 6:59 PM, John Styduhar via Fot wrote: > > Amici, has anyone been able to contact Kai Radicke, owner of Wishbone Classics? I and others have had no pickup by phone or response to e-mails from Kai in the last few weeks. Wondering if he is still in business or something has happened to him. Thanks > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fasttrs at yahoo.com Mon Jan 30 19:00:08 2017 From: fasttrs at yahoo.com (Mike Munson) Date: Mon, 30 Jan 2017 20:00:08 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Contact with Wishbone Classics References: <7746B025-CCEA-47E4-B834-BF8AD778C851@me.com> I talked to him Friday and he said he wouldn't be back til Tuesday. Mike Munson #28 EP TR6 > On Jan 30, 2017, at 7:36 PM, Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: > > I called and spoke to him Friday. I had left him a message several days earlier and sent an email. > He apologized and said he'd been swamped for the past week or so. > Keep trying! All I can tell you is I've consistently had great experience with him and his parts. And, my new pistons are on schedule. > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Jan 30, 2017, at 6:59 PM, John Styduhar via Fot wrote: >> >> Amici, has anyone been able to contact Kai Radicke, owner of Wishbone Classics? I and others have had no pickup by phone or response to e-mails from Kai in the last few weeks. Wondering if he is still in business or something has happened to him. Thanks >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com >> >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fasttrs at yahoo.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com Tue Jan 31 08:58:30 2017 From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (Bob Kramer) Date: Tue, 31 Jan 2017 09:58:30 -0600 Subject: [Fot] APT-FAST I am looking for some of HS6 parts, in particular the rubber bushings that cushion the float bowl attachment bolt. The only place I know to get them was APT. They also had the float bowl angle adjustment packing's in rubber I believe but I can't check because their web site is down and the phone goes to voicemail. I hope everything is okay with them, they are a good source of hard to find stuff. Is there another source for these SU parts stateside? Bob Kramer -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dlhogye at comcast.net Tue Jan 31 20:00:30 2017 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye) Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2017 03:00:30 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] John Styduhar on Victory Lane cover Congratulations to John Styduhar for his cover shot on the latest issue of Victory Lane. John S. and John Hasty driving their TR3s were subjects in a couple photos in the issue along with other TRIUMPHS. John Hasty is an amazing and totally tenacious racer. Keep the pedal to the metal John. Gee, is his car low. Let's keep our Triumphs in the glossy pages. // Dave H. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tomfelts at windstream.net Sun Jan 1 07:32:42 2017 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2017 9:32:42 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] TR6 question Which, FWIW, is about 30 miles from my house. They are well stocked with Triumph parts. ---- WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: ============= There was a time when you couldn't find a decent throw bearing for these. the OEM were cheap and tended to lock up, taking out the fingers on the diaphragm pressure plate. I think most suppliers are using a Toyota bearing in its place with good results. The best parts source (and source of the best parts) for these as well as having an incredibly detailed catalog with practically every part ilustrated in blow-up is The Roadster Factory in Armagh, PA. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Frank Magnusson Sent: Saturday, December 31, 2016 7:27:38 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] TR6 question Things to look for: A. Rocker panel rot just in front of the doors. The scuttle vent has a water drain tube on each side that just exits between the body and the fender at this spot and if any leaves, etc get down in there, this is where it rots out. Check it with a magnet for bondo. B. Rot on the valence panel where the top attaches to the body at the rear, on the sides where it meets the rear fender. Not sure why it rots here, but its notorious. C. Cracks on the front shock towers. Easily welded to repair. D. Diff mount cracks. The rear springs are fairly soft and put a lot of load into the diff mounts when you accelerate. One of the four is worst; dont recall which. Easily welded. If you get the car, upgrade the springs to competition springs which are much stiffer and upgrade the shocks with heavier duty valving. Lots of people chnage over to telescoping shocks and there are kits to do that, but I never had a problem with the originals. E. juddering clutch. Really only a factor on higher mileage cars due to Triumphs clutch release mechanism design. Stag has it much worse due to the bigger engine and gearbox but starting to show up on other models. Buckeye Triumphs in Ohio has a great article on how to fix it, whihc worked on my Stag. Other than that all the usual stuff, rust, bondo, synchros. Engine is fairly bullet proof. This is one of the better Triumphs. Its no big Healey, but its a great car and much more roadable than the other Triumphs due to the 15 inch wheels. Great car. OD is a plus, but very easy to install one if you can find one. They're around. Hope this helps, Frank _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Jan 1 11:17:46 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2017 10:17:46 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Mention Besides Healeys, another passion of mine is aviation, though I haven't flown in a few years. I've been catching up on my backlog of aviation magazine reading, and came across something in the November 2016 issue of 'Plane & Pilot' magazine I thought y'all might have an interest in. The author is Bill Cox, a noted aviation writer and ferry pilot, and the article is about how 'flying never gets old' and is entitled 'Perspectives.' He's referring to his first visit to Telluride, Colorado, USA: "My first visit to this tall paradise was over Christmas break in the mid-'60s when I was 50 years more athletic, but that trip was in a '63 Austin-Healey 3000, not a bad ride, but temporarily attached to Highway 145. At the time, I barely noticed the difference, as the UNM coeds back in Albuquerque loved that little sports car, and accordingly, so did I." Happy New Year to all and have a good ride in 2017. Bob From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Jan 1 11:27:23 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2017 10:27:23 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Mention 2 I got so excited about the first mention, I didn't finish the article. Further along, Bill writes: "In contrast, a general aviation airplane is more like a flying version of my old Austin-Healey, good visibility straight ahead and behind, to both sides, nearly straight down and even straight up if you leave the top down, something you can never do in an Airbus or Boeing (Aloha Airlines 737 notwithstanding)." From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sun Jan 1 12:26:41 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2017 11:26:41 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Mention References: ? Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes Portland,OR On Jan 1, 2017 11:12 AM, "Bob Spidell" wrote: > Besides Healeys, another passion of mine is aviation, though I haven't > flown in a few years. I've been catching up on my backlog of aviation > magazine reading, and came across something in the November 2016 issue of > 'Plane & Pilot' magazine I thought y'all might have an interest in. The > author is Bill Cox, a noted aviation writer and ferry pilot, and the > article is about how 'flying never gets old' and is entitled > 'Perspectives.' He's referring to his first visit to Telluride, Colorado, > USA: > > "My first visit to this tall paradise was over Christmas break in the > mid-'60s when I was 50 years more athletic, but that trip was in a '63 > Austin-Healey 3000, not a bad ride, but temporarily attached to Highway > 145. At the time, I barely noticed the difference, as the UNM coeds back > in Albuquerque loved that little sports car, and accordingly, so did I." > > Happy New Year to all and have a good ride in 2017. > > Bob > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Sun Jan 1 12:41:07 2017 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2017 14:41:07 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Draught Excluder for BN7 References: <15956dac32d-482d-2aa5d@webprd-m51.mail.aol.com> IMHO, the only one worth a damn is Britstleflex. It comes in Navy and will stay on, unlike the other repros I've dealt with. Forget trying to order online, you'll have to keep calling until you get Martin on the phone and you still may have a wait to get your stuff, but it will be worth it. Happy New Year! Rick Neville On Sat, Dec 31, 2016 at 4:48 PM, wrote: > The rubber bulb seal on the draught excluder around the driver side door > opening on my BN7 (restored in 1993) is starting to rip, so I'd like to > replace it. The kicker is that the car is blue, and the fuzzy cloth part of > the seal is blue -- I remember that for a long while the only replacement > version was just black material. Does anyone know if the draught excluder > is available from any source in dark blue? > > Thanks > gary > > *Gary Anderson* > Registrar, AHCR > > > > *************************************** > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Sun Jan 1 12:52:21 2017 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2017 11:52:21 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] TR6 question References: Ira, did you buy it? On Fri, Dec 30, 2016 at 8:59 PM, i erbs wrote: > Any TR6 experts out there? I'm going to look at 1976 one owner car with > the following description: > great project, was sitting for 10 years, always garaged, body straight, > new starter, engine turns over. > Hello, Some assembly required, motor turns over, new battery, new starter, > dash needs assembly, surface rust only, original paint, body straight, one > owner. > > > These are the photos I have. > What should I look for? He is Asking $6K > Thanks > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Sun Jan 1 14:47:14 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2017 16:47:14 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] first drive of 2017 All, Did anyone get their Healey out today? I drove our tri-carb around town for a bit after repairing the parking brake handle. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php From YNOTINK at msn.com Sun Jan 1 16:20:32 2017 From: YNOTINK at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2017 23:20:32 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Draught Excluder for BN7 References: <15956dac32d-482d-2aa5d@webprd-m51.mail.aol.com>, Check with Heritage Upholstery. BASJAG @telus.net. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of HealeyRick Sent: Sunday, January 1, 2017 7:41:07 PM To: editorgary at aol.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Draught Excluder for BN7 IMHO, the only one worth a damn is Britstleflex. It comes in Navy and will stay on, unlike the other repros I've dealt with. Forget trying to order online, you'll have to keep calling until you get Martin on the phone and you still may have a wait to get your stuff, but it will be worth it. Happy New Year! Rick Neville The rubber bulb seal on the draught excluder around the driver side door opening on my BN7 (restored in 1993) is starting to rip, so I'd like to replace it. The kicker is that the car is blue, and the fuzzy cloth part of the seal is blue -- I remember that for a long while the only replacement version was just black material. Does anyone know if the draught excluder is available from any source in dark blue? Thanks gary Gary Anderson Registrar, AHCR *************************************** _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey100m at me.com Sun Jan 1 17:15:53 2017 From: healey100m at me.com (Randall Hicks) Date: Sun, 01 Jan 2017 19:15:53 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] first drive of 2017 References: <586978E2.5030300@earthlink.net> Yes, New Year's Brunch in the BJ8. 68 degrees and very pleasant! ? Randy Skidaway Island Savannah, GA > On Jan 1, 2017, at 4:47 PM, Bob Haskell wrote: > > All, > > Did anyone get their Healey out today? I drove our tri-carb around town for a bit after repairing the parking brake handle. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m at me.com > From tomfelts at windstream.net Sun Jan 1 17:18:37 2017 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2017 19:18:37 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] first drive of 2017 BUT---------where do you live?:) ---- Bob Haskell wrote: ============= All, Did anyone get their Healey out today? I drove our tri-carb around town for a bit after repairing the parking brake handle. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From phoenix722 at comcast.net Sun Jan 1 17:43:30 2017 From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike S) Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2017 16:43:30 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] first drive of 2017 References: <586978E2.5030300@earthlink.net> No but I got one in a couple of days ago. Last drive of 2016. A little nippy out with the top down. Mike Seattle On 1/1/2017 1:47 PM, Bob Haskell wrote: > All, > > Did anyone get their Healey out today? I drove our tri-carb around > town for a bit after repairing the parking brake handle. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/phoenix722 at comcast.net > > -- Mike MGTD (long gone) BN1 (long gone) BN2-100M (gone but in good hands) BJ8 From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sun Jan 1 18:10:53 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2017 17:10:53 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] first drive of 2017 References: <586978E2.5030300@earthlink.net> Snow and rain got in the way.... Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes Portland,OR On Jan 1, 2017 3:57 PM, "Bob Haskell" wrote: > All, > > Did anyone get their Healey out today? I drove our tri-carb around town > for a bit after repairing the parking brake handle. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sun Jan 1 20:18:52 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2017 19:18:52 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] first drive of 2017 References: <586978E2.5030300@earthlink.net> I bought a used smoothline hardtop and I'm waiting for the new seals and hold down clamps so I can drive it more days of the year. It has more headroom than my OEM hard top and a rear window :) Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Sun, Jan 1, 2017 at 5:10 PM, i erbs wrote: > Snow and rain got in the way.... > > Ira Erbs > 1959 100-6 > MKI engine and disc brakes > Portland,OR > > On Jan 1, 2017 3:57 PM, "Bob Haskell" wrote: > >> All, >> >> Did anyone get their Healey out today? I drove our tri-carb around town >> for a bit after repairing the parking brake handle. >> >> Cheers, >> >> Bob Haskell >> AHCA 3000 MkI registrar >> http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sun Jan 1 20:32:49 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2017 03:32:49 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] first drive of 2017 References: <586978E2.5030300@earthlink.net> Been raining for 3 days here in San Bernardino and we are in a drought!? Sure as hell not going out at midnight last night.? Sounded like Afghanistan.? My daughter asked if it was fireworks.? I told her "some of was".Mike MacLeanSan Bernadino On Sunday, January 1, 2017 7:14 PM, i erbs wrote: Snow and rain got in the way.... Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes Portland,OR On Jan 1, 2017 3:57 PM, "Bob Haskell" wrote: All, Did anyone get their Healey out today?? I drove our tri-carb around town for a bit after repairing the parking brake handle. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_ 3000mk1.php ______________________________ _________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/ listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Mon Jan 2 03:45:53 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2017 05:45:53 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] first drive of 2017 References: <20170101191837.OEN3R.28215.root@pamxwww09-z01> Tom, Indianapolis, temperature was in the 40s. Hardtop on, side curtains in the boot. Today's forecast is 50s with rain. Suppose to drop to the 20s later in the week. Guess it's time to install the snow tires on the MINI. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 01/01/2017 07:18 PM, Tom Felts wrote: > BUT---------where do you live?:) > > > ---- Bob Haskell wrote: > > ============= > All, > > Did anyone get their Healey out today? I drove our tri-carb around town > for a bit after repairing the parking brake handle. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net > > > From shepard7107 at verizon.net Mon Jan 2 07:49:55 2017 From: shepard7107 at verizon.net (Michael Shepard) Date: Mon, 02 Jan 2017 08:49:55 -0600 (CST) Subject: [Healeys] first drive of 2017 An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_20170101_140619194.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2769484 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Mon Jan 2 08:04:56 2017 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2017 10:04:56 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] first drive of 2017 References: <586978E2.5030300@earthlink.net> <0893876E-6996-4F21-8949-92678AB2BF46@me.com> Sure ain't gonna happen around here!!! [image: Inline image 1] Roll on spring!! Michael S BN1 #174 On Sun, Jan 1, 2017 at 7:15 PM, Randall Hicks wrote: > Yes, New Year's Brunch in the BJ8. > > 68 degrees and very pleasant! ? > > Randy > Skidaway Island > Savannah, GA > > > On Jan 1, 2017, at 4:47 PM, Bob Haskell wrote: > > > > All, > > > > Did anyone get their Healey out today? I drove our tri-carb around town > for a bit after repairing the parking brake handle. > > > > Cheers, > > > > Bob Haskell > > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healey100m at me.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -- *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 4970280 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Mon Jan 2 09:35:51 2017 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2017 11:35:51 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Shelley Jack In going through a parts bin I found an LJ225 Shelley Jack that is supposedly correct for most 300's up until the later cars. I was quite surprised to see that it has a rather high value and here are some of the prices paid in the UK in 2016: ?149.74 paid on USA Ebay 7 February 2016 - no handle ?231.50 paid on UK Ebay 23 March 2016 - no handle ?119.46 paid on USA Ebay 1 May 2016 - no handle ?155.00 paid on UK Ebay 18 June 2016 - no handle ?385.00 paid on UK Ebay 26 June 2016 - no handle ?193.42 paid on USA Ebay 11 September 2016 - no handle ?52.51 paid on UK Ebay 2 October 2016 - no handle ?174.89 paid on UK Ebay 18 November 2016 - no handle ?79.00 paid on UK Ebay 28 November 2016 - with handle The jack is in perfect shape with some surface corrosion on the unpainted surfaces. I did not see a handle for the jack though it might be in another bin. In any case before I put the jack on ebay I thought I would offer it up to the list. Please reply to me directly offlist. Best--Michael Oritt -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Mon Jan 2 09:38:31 2017 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2017 11:38:31 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] first drive of 2017 References: <21972471.3524650.1483368595189.JavaMail.root@vznit170116.mailsrvcs.net> Michael-- I am about 1-1/2 hours south of you in Solomons and it is raining! In any case I am awaiting some green spray paint from Moss so I can put a new water pump in my 100 and hopefully get some driving in before they start to salt the roads. Best--Michael Oritt On Mon, Jan 2, 2017 at 9:49 AM, Michael Shepard wrote: > High 40s and sunny here in Baltimore. No top on my car but but not too > cold with the right clothing. Had to give her a wash too! > > Michael > 67 BJ8 > > > On 01/01/17, Randall Hicks wrote: > > Yes, New Year's Brunch in the BJ8. > > 68 degrees and very pleasant! ???? > > Randy > Skidaway Island > Savannah, GA > > > On Jan 1, 2017, at 4:47 PM, Bob Haskell wrote: > > > > All, > > > > Did anyone get their Healey out today? I drove our tri-carb around town > for a bit after repairing the parking brake handle. > > > > Cheers, > > > > Bob Haskell > > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healey100m at me.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/shepard7107 at verizon.net > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From shepard7107 at verizon.net Mon Jan 2 10:00:27 2017 From: shepard7107 at verizon.net (Michael Shepard) Date: Mon, 02 Jan 2017 11:00:27 -0600 (CST) Subject: [Healeys] first drive of 2017 An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Mon Jan 2 11:07:37 2017 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2017 13:07:37 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] first drive of 2017 References: <586978E2.5030300@earthlink.net> <0893876E-6996-4F21-8949-92678AB2BF46@me.com> Michael-- I hope you can take some solace in knowing that the water pump pulley you recently sent me will be enjoying relatively mild mid-Atlantic weather. Best--Michael Oritt On Mon, Jan 2, 2017 at 10:04 AM, Michael Salter wrote: > Sure ain't gonna happen around here!!! > [image: Inline image 1] > Roll on spring!! > Michael S > BN1 #174 > > On Sun, Jan 1, 2017 at 7:15 PM, Randall Hicks wrote: > >> Yes, New Year's Brunch in the BJ8. >> >> 68 degrees and very pleasant! ? >> >> Randy >> Skidaway Island >> Savannah, GA >> >> > On Jan 1, 2017, at 4:47 PM, Bob Haskell >> wrote: >> > >> > All, >> > >> > Did anyone get their Healey out today? I drove our tri-carb around >> town for a bit after repairing the parking brake handle. >> > >> > Cheers, >> > >> > Bob Haskell >> > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar >> > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php >> > _______________________________________________ >> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> > Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> > >> > Healeys at autox.team.net >> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> > >> > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/healey100m at me.com >> > >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >> >> > > > -- > *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.* > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 4970280 bytes Desc: not available URL: From nmcd10 at gmail.com Mon Jan 2 11:56:57 2017 From: nmcd10 at gmail.com (Neil McDonald) Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2017 18:56:57 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive One of my New Years resolutions, before I put the car back on the road after sitting in the garage for several years, is to fix the overdrive so the car is comfortable highway driving. It once (and once only) went into OD once very briefly - which suggests that nothing mechanical is broken. So far I have persuaded myself that the OD electrics are fine and there is adequate hydraulic pressure - around 390 psi if I recall correctly. I have also checked the hydraulic valve adjustment using the "drill through the actuating lever" method but not the direct "is the valve ball lifting by at least 1/32 inch when the solenoid is actuated?" method. Somewhere I read that there is a small passage around the hydraulic valve area which can get blocked and thus needs cleaning out with a wire. Is there an internet link elaborating on this? Online research also suggests that I should change out the OD fluid which is certainly old and a significant amount could have leaked out. I assume that the gear box has a drain and filler plug but have yet to find them. Should I refill to just short of overflowing or ......? I don't have the resources to pull and strip the OD myself so am hoping that I can get it working without hiring a professional. Does anyone have any words of wisdom and/or comfort? _____________________ Neil McDonald Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Jan 2 12:01:48 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2017 11:01:48 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] first drive of 2017 References: <21972471.3524650.1483368595189.JavaMail.root@vznit170116.mailsrvcs.net> Very nice! Original, or restored? On 1/2/2017 6:49 AM, Michael Shepard wrote: > High 40s and sunny here in Baltimore. No top on my car but but not > too cold with the right clothing. Had to give her a wash too! > > Michael > 67 BJ8 > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Mon Jan 2 14:09:41 2017 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2017 16:09:41 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive References: Hi Neil, I would definitely recommend the* "is the valve ball lifting by at least 1/32 inch when the solenoid is actuated?" method.".*... that is critical. If you have the 390 p.s.i. and it operated once I would suggest adjusting the solenoid CAREFULLY it is easy to cook the solenoid if you do it wrong. Michael S BN1 #174 On Mon, Jan 2, 2017 at 1:56 PM, Neil McDonald wrote: > One of my New Years resolutions, before I put the car back on the road > after sitting in the garage for several years, is to fix the overdrive so > the car is comfortable highway driving. It once (and once only) went into > OD once very briefly - which suggests that nothing mechanical is broken. > > So far I have persuaded myself that the OD electrics are fine and there is > adequate hydraulic pressure - around 390 psi if I recall correctly. I have > also checked the hydraulic valve adjustment using the "drill through the > actuating lever" method but not the direct "is the valve ball lifting by at > least 1/32 inch when the solenoid is actuated?" method. > > Somewhere I read that there is a small passage around the hydraulic valve > area which can get blocked and thus needs cleaning out with a wire. Is > there an internet link elaborating on this? > > Online research also suggests that I should change out the OD fluid which > is certainly old and a significant amount could have leaked out. I assume > that the gear box has a drain and filler plug but have yet to find them. > Should I refill to just short of overflowing or ......? > > I don't have the resources to pull and strip the OD myself so am hoping > that I can get it working without hiring a professional. Does anyone have > any words of wisdom and/or comfort? > _____________________ > Neil McDonald > > Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -- *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Jan 2 14:11:48 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2017 13:11:48 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive References: The OD and gearbox share fluid supply. Take the car out for a run to get the fluid warmed-up, then get it up on a rack--preferably--or SAFELY on jackstands, as high as they'll go. There is a dipstick on top of the gearbox; check your fluid level before emptying--if it's low that could be at least part of your problem. There is a drain plug on the bottom left side of the gearbox, and a big brass disk on the OD. Older cars had a sensible square 'nut' on the OD plug, which can be turned with a big crescent wrench, and newer ones have a notched disk that requires a tool to be undone properly, but you can use a brass punch and hammer or other method. When you drop the brass plug, there should be a cup-shaped screen and, possibly, a couple of soft, circular magnets. Let the fluid drain completely, then re-install the gearbox and OD plugs, being sure to a) place the magnets inside the plug and b) place the screen on top of the magnets. It's difficult to stop leakage from the OD plug; use a new fiber washer and, possibly, some teflon tape on the threads of the plug (being careful to not get any inside the OD). Top off with the fluid of your choice--'book' is 30W non-detergent, but most motor (20W-50) and synthetic gearbox oils work well--checking the level often with the dipstick. Should take about 3.75 quarts. Don't know how you 'persuaded myself that the OD electrics are fine,' but my money's on the electrics--esp. the relay. Bob On 1/2/2017 10:56 AM, Neil McDonald wrote: > One of my New Years resolutions, before I put the car back on the road after sitting in the garage for several years, is to fix the overdrive so the car is comfortable highway driving. It once (and once only) went into OD once very briefly - which suggests that nothing mechanical is broken. > > So far I have persuaded myself that the OD electrics are fine and there is adequate hydraulic pressure - around 390 psi if I recall correctly. I have also checked the hydraulic valve adjustment using the "drill through the actuating lever" method but not the direct "is the valve ball lifting by at least 1/32 inch when the solenoid is actuated?" method. > > Somewhere I read that there is a small passage around the hydraulic valve area which can get blocked and thus needs cleaning out with a wire. Is there an internet link elaborating on this? > > Online research also suggests that I should change out the OD fluid which is certainly old and a significant amount could have leaked out. I assume that the gear box has a drain and filler plug but have yet to find them. Should I refill to just short of overflowing or ......? > > I don't have the resources to pull and strip the OD myself so am hoping that I can get it working without hiring a professional. Does anyone have any words of wisdom and/or comfort? > _____________________ > Neil McDonald > > Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com > > > From nmcd10 at gmail.com Mon Jan 2 16:08:15 2017 From: nmcd10 at gmail.com (Neil McDonald) Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2017 23:08:15 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive References: Thanks for the replies so far. Pleased that nobody yet is suggesting OD internal mechanical problems. What about cleaning out the mysterious oil passage that might be blocked? I concluded that electrics are OK because the solenoid is brand new and moves and holds the hydraulic valve actuating lever when called upon. _____________________ Neil McDonald Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com > On 2 Jan 2017, at 21:11, Bob Spidell wrote: > > The OD and gearbox share fluid supply. Take the car out for a run to get the fluid warmed-up, then get it up on a rack--preferably--or SAFELY on jackstands, as high as they'll go. There is a dipstick on top of the gearbox; check your fluid level before emptying--if it's low that could be at least part of your problem. There is a drain plug on the bottom left side of the gearbox, and a big brass disk on the OD. Older cars had a sensible square 'nut' on the OD plug, which can be turned with a big crescent wrench, and newer ones have a notched disk that requires a tool to be undone properly, but you can use a brass punch and hammer or other method. When you drop the brass plug, there should be a cup-shaped screen and, possibly, a couple of soft, circular magnets. > > Let the fluid drain completely, then re-install the gearbox and OD plugs, being sure to a) place the magnets inside the plug and b) place the screen on top of the magnets. It's difficult to stop leakage from the OD plug; use a new fiber washer and, possibly, some teflon tape on the threads of the plug (being careful to not get any inside the OD). Top off with the fluid of your choice--'book' is 30W non-detergent, but most motor (20W-50) and synthetic gearbox oils work well--checking the level often with the dipstick. Should take about 3.75 quarts. > > Don't know how you 'persuaded myself that the OD electrics are fine,' but my money's on the electrics--esp. the relay. > > Bob > > >> On 1/2/2017 10:56 AM, Neil McDonald wrote: >> One of my New Years resolutions, before I put the car back on the road after sitting in the garage for several years, is to fix the overdrive so the car is comfortable highway driving. It once (and once only) went into OD once very briefly - which suggests that nothing mechanical is broken. >> >> So far I have persuaded myself that the OD electrics are fine and there is adequate hydraulic pressure - around 390 psi if I recall correctly. I have also checked the hydraulic valve adjustment using the "drill through the actuating lever" method but not the direct "is the valve ball lifting by at least 1/32 inch when the solenoid is actuated?" method. >> >> Somewhere I read that there is a small passage around the hydraulic valve area which can get blocked and thus needs cleaning out with a wire. Is there an internet link elaborating on this? >> >> Online research also suggests that I should change out the OD fluid which is certainly old and a significant amount could have leaked out. I assume that the gear box has a drain and filler plug but have yet to find them. Should I refill to just short of overflowing or ......? >> >> I don't have the resources to pull and strip the OD myself so am hoping that I can get it working without hiring a professional. Does anyone have any words of wisdom and/or comfort? >> _____________________ >> Neil McDonald >> >> Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com >> >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/nmcd10 at gmail.com > From YNOTINK at msn.com Mon Jan 2 16:31:14 2017 From: YNOTINK at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2017 23:31:14 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive References: , If the OD engages when cold, but disengages when it warms up your problem could be with leakage through the o-rings that seal the accumulator body to the housing. It's an easy fix, but removing the accumulator body is somewhat of a trick. I was advised to remove the side plate and the accumulator springs, place a dowel in the center of the accumulator piston to keep it from moving and apply air pressure through the actuator valve hole (after removing the valve and ball). The accumulator body is the large sleeve in which the accumulator piston resides. Bill Lawrence ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Bob Spidell Sent: Monday, January 2, 2017 9:11:48 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive The OD and gearbox share fluid supply. Take the car out for a run to get the fluid warmed-up, then get it up on a rack--preferably--or SAFELY on jackstands, as high as they'll go. There is a dipstick on top of the gearbox; check your fluid level before emptying--if it's low that could be at least part of your problem. There is a drain plug on the bottom left side of the gearbox, and a big brass disk on the OD. Older cars had a sensible square 'nut' on the OD plug, which can be turned with a big crescent wrench, and newer ones have a notched disk that requires a tool to be undone properly, but you can use a brass punch and hammer or other method. When you drop the brass plug, there should be a cup-shaped screen and, possibly, a couple of soft, circular magnets. Let the fluid drain completely, then re-install the gearbox and OD plugs, being sure to a) place the magnets inside the plug and b) place the screen on top of the magnets. It's difficult to stop leakage from the OD plug; use a new fiber washer and, possibly, some teflon tape on the threads of the plug (being careful to not get any inside the OD). Top off with the fluid of your choice--'book' is 30W non-detergent, but most motor (20W-50) and synthetic gearbox oils work well--checking the level often with the dipstick. Should take about 3.75 quarts. Don't know how you 'persuaded myself that the OD electrics are fine,' but my money's on the electrics--esp. the relay. Bob On 1/2/2017 10:56 AM, Neil McDonald wrote: > One of my New Years resolutions, before I put the car back on the road after sitting in the garage for several years, is to fix the overdrive so the car is comfortable highway driving. It once (and once only) went into OD once very briefly - which suggests that nothing mechanical is broken. > > So far I have persuaded myself that the OD electrics are fine and there is adequate hydraulic pressure - around 390 psi if I recall correctly. I have also checked the hydraulic valve adjustment using the "drill through the actuating lever" method but not the direct "is the valve ball lifting by at least 1/32 inch when the solenoid is actuated?" method. > > Somewhere I read that there is a small passage around the hydraulic valve area which can get blocked and thus needs cleaning out with a wire. Is there an internet link elaborating on this? > > Online research also suggests that I should change out the OD fluid which is certainly old and a significant amount could have leaked out. I assume that the gear box has a drain and filler plug but have yet to find them. Should I refill to just short of overflowing or ......? > > I don't have the resources to pull and strip the OD myself so am hoping that I can get it working without hiring a professional. Does anyone have any words of wisdom and/or comfort? > _____________________ > Neil McDonald > > Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From 050.rpl at gmail.com Mon Jan 2 16:57:35 2017 From: 050.rpl at gmail.com (R. Lindsay) Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2017 18:57:35 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive References: I have had this issue. Looked at electrics and all OK. I cleaned out the passage/ ball valve and the OD has worked fine for 25+ years. Price Lindsay Cell: 630-841-6300 Email: 050.rpl at gmail.com Sent from my iPhone > On Jan 2, 2017, at 6:08 PM, Neil McDonald wrote: > > Thanks for the replies so far. Pleased that nobody yet is suggesting OD internal mechanical problems. What about cleaning out the mysterious oil passage that might be blocked? > > I concluded that electrics are OK because the solenoid is brand new and moves and holds the hydraulic valve actuating lever when called upon. > _____________________ > Neil McDonald > > Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com > > >> On 2 Jan 2017, at 21:11, Bob Spidell wrote: >> >> The OD and gearbox share fluid supply. Take the car out for a run to get the fluid warmed-up, then get it up on a rack--preferably--or SAFELY on jackstands, as high as they'll go. There is a dipstick on top of the gearbox; check your fluid level before emptying--if it's low that could be at least part of your problem. There is a drain plug on the bottom left side of the gearbox, and a big brass disk on the OD. Older cars had a sensible square 'nut' on the OD plug, which can be turned with a big crescent wrench, and newer ones have a notched disk that requires a tool to be undone properly, but you can use a brass punch and hammer or other method. When you drop the brass plug, there should be a cup-shaped screen and, possibly, a couple of soft, circular magnets. >> >> Let the fluid drain completely, then re-install the gearbox and OD plugs, being sure to a) place the magnets inside the plug and b) place the screen on top of the magnets. It's difficult to stop leakage from the OD plug; use a new fiber washer and, possibly, some teflon tape on the threads of the plug (being careful to not get any inside the OD). Top off with the fluid of your choice--'book' is 30W non-detergent, but most motor (20W-50) and synthetic gearbox oils work well--checking the level often with the dipstick. Should take about 3.75 quarts. >> >> Don't know how you 'persuaded myself that the OD electrics are fine,' but my money's on the electrics--esp. the relay. >> >> Bob >> >> >>> On 1/2/2017 10:56 AM, Neil McDonald wrote: >>> One of my New Years resolutions, before I put the car back on the road after sitting in the garage for several years, is to fix the overdrive so the car is comfortable highway driving. It once (and once only) went into OD once very briefly - which suggests that nothing mechanical is broken. >>> >>> So far I have persuaded myself that the OD electrics are fine and there is adequate hydraulic pressure - around 390 psi if I recall correctly. I have also checked the hydraulic valve adjustment using the "drill through the actuating lever" method but not the direct "is the valve ball lifting by at least 1/32 inch when the solenoid is actuated?" method. >>> >>> Somewhere I read that there is a small passage around the hydraulic valve area which can get blocked and thus needs cleaning out with a wire. Is there an internet link elaborating on this? >>> >>> Online research also suggests that I should change out the OD fluid which is certainly old and a significant amount could have leaked out. I assume that the gear box has a drain and filler plug but have yet to find them. Should I refill to just short of overflowing or ......? >>> >>> I don't have the resources to pull and strip the OD myself so am hoping that I can get it working without hiring a professional. Does anyone have any words of wisdom and/or comfort? >>> _____________________ >>> Neil McDonald >>> >>> Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com >>> >>> >>> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/nmcd10 at gmail.com >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/050.rpl at gmail.com > From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Mon Jan 2 17:10:21 2017 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2017 16:10:21 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive References: The oil bypass in the operating rod will not cause you this problem. If it is plugged the overdrive will be slow to disengage. Like Mike said the most likely problem is the adjustment of the solenoid. You probably are not raising the check ball on the operating rod the correct 1/32 or .0312. If the ball is not raised correctly insufficent oil will be sent into the system and the overdrive will be slow to engage. The next place that could cause the problem is if the seat for the check valve on the side of the pump is bad you will be slow to build pressure and when you operate the overdrive the system will be slow to recover the pressure. ALso check that the check balls are in there correct location. It is easy to switch the check balls. David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com -----Original Message----- From: Neil McDonald Sent: Monday, January 02, 2017 3:08 PM To: Bob Spidell Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive Thanks for the replies so far. Pleased that nobody yet is suggesting OD internal mechanical problems. What about cleaning out the mysterious oil passage that might be blocked? I concluded that electrics are OK because the solenoid is brand new and moves and holds the hydraulic valve actuating lever when called upon. _____________________ Neil McDonald Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com > On 2 Jan 2017, at 21:11, Bob Spidell wrote: > > The OD and gearbox share fluid supply. Take the car out for a run to get > the fluid warmed-up, then get it up on a rack--preferably--or SAFELY on > jackstands, as high as they'll go. There is a dipstick on top of the > gearbox; check your fluid level before emptying--if it's low that could be > at least part of your problem. There is a drain plug on the bottom left > side of the gearbox, and a big brass disk on the OD. Older cars had a > sensible square 'nut' on the OD plug, which can be turned with a big > crescent wrench, and newer ones have a notched disk that requires a tool > to be undone properly, but you can use a brass punch and hammer or other > method. When you drop the brass plug, there should be a cup-shaped screen > and, possibly, a couple of soft, circular magnets. > > Let the fluid drain completely, then re-install the gearbox and OD plugs, > being sure to a) place the magnets inside the plug and b) place the screen > on top of the magnets. It's difficult to stop leakage from the OD plug; > use a new fiber washer and, possibly, some teflon tape on the threads of > the plug (being careful to not get any inside the OD). Top off with the > fluid of your choice--'book' is 30W non-detergent, but most motor (20W-50) > and synthetic gearbox oils work well--checking the level often with the > dipstick. Should take about 3.75 quarts. > > Don't know how you 'persuaded myself that the OD electrics are fine,' but > my money's on the electrics--esp. the relay. > > Bob > > >> On 1/2/2017 10:56 AM, Neil McDonald wrote: >> One of my New Years resolutions, before I put the car back on the road >> after sitting in the garage for several years, is to fix the overdrive so >> the car is comfortable highway driving. It once (and once only) went into >> OD once very briefly - which suggests that nothing mechanical is broken. >> >> So far I have persuaded myself that the OD electrics are fine and there >> is adequate hydraulic pressure - around 390 psi if I recall correctly. I >> have also checked the hydraulic valve adjustment using the "drill through >> the actuating lever" method but not the direct "is the valve ball lifting >> by at least 1/32 inch when the solenoid is actuated?" method. >> >> Somewhere I read that there is a small passage around the hydraulic valve >> area which can get blocked and thus needs cleaning out with a wire. Is >> there an internet link elaborating on this? >> >> Online research also suggests that I should change out the OD fluid which >> is certainly old and a significant amount could have leaked out. I assume >> that the gear box has a drain and filler plug but have yet to find them. >> Should I refill to just short of overflowing or ......? >> >> I don't have the resources to pull and strip the OD myself so am hoping >> that I can get it working without hiring a professional. Does anyone have >> any words of wisdom and/or comfort? >> _____________________ >> Neil McDonald >> >> Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com >> >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/nmcd10 at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From nmcd10 at gmail.com Mon Jan 2 17:39:11 2017 From: nmcd10 at gmail.com (Neil McDonald) Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2017 00:39:11 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive References: By referencing the check valve on the side of the pump, David Nock has taken me into new and uncharted territory! I assume this valve is totally different from the ball lifted by the OD actuating lever? The mystery deepens with the reference to multiple balls and the need to ensure that they are in the right way. More help on this please. _____________________ Neil McDonald Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com > On 2 Jan 2017, at 23:31, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > > If the OD engages when cold, but disengages when it warms up your problem could be with leakage through the o-rings that seal the accumulator body to the housing. It's an easy fix, but removing the accumulator body is somewhat of a trick. I was advised to remove the side plate and the accumulator springs, place a dowel in the center of the accumulator piston to keep it from moving and apply air pressure through the actuator valve hole (after removing the valve and ball). The accumulator body is the large sleeve in which the accumulator piston resides. > > > Bill Lawrence > > From: Healeys on behalf of Bob Spidell > Sent: Monday, January 2, 2017 9:11:48 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive > > The OD and gearbox share fluid supply. Take the car out for a run to > get the fluid warmed-up, then get it up on a rack--preferably--or SAFELY > on jackstands, as high as they'll go. There is a dipstick on top of the > gearbox; check your fluid level before emptying--if it's low that could > be at least part of your problem. There is a drain plug on the bottom > left side of the gearbox, and a big brass disk on the OD. Older cars > had a sensible square 'nut' on the OD plug, which can be turned with a > big crescent wrench, and newer ones have a notched disk that requires a > tool to be undone properly, but you can use a brass punch and hammer or > other method. When you drop the brass plug, there should be a > cup-shaped screen and, possibly, a couple of soft, circular magnets. > > Let the fluid drain completely, then re-install the gearbox and OD > plugs, being sure to a) place the magnets inside the plug and b) place > the screen on top of the magnets. It's difficult to stop leakage from > the OD plug; use a new fiber washer and, possibly, some teflon tape on > the threads of the plug (being careful to not get any inside the OD). > Top off with the fluid of your choice--'book' is 30W non-detergent, but > most motor (20W-50) and synthetic gearbox oils work well--checking the > level often with the dipstick. Should take about 3.75 quarts. > > Don't know how you 'persuaded myself that the OD electrics are fine,' > but my money's on the electrics--esp. the relay. > > Bob > > > On 1/2/2017 10:56 AM, Neil McDonald wrote: > > One of my New Years resolutions, before I put the car back on the road after sitting in the garage for several years, is to fix the overdrive so the car is comfortable highway driving. It once (and once only) went into OD once very briefly - which suggests that nothing mechanical is broken. > > > > So far I have persuaded myself that the OD electrics are fine and there is adequate hydraulic pressure - around 390 psi if I recall correctly. I have also checked the hydraulic valve adjustment using the "drill through the actuating lever" method but not the direct "is the valve ball lifting by at least 1/32 inch when the solenoid is actuated?" method. > > > > Somewhere I read that there is a small passage around the hydraulic valve area which can get blocked and thus needs cleaning out with a wire. Is there an internet link elaborating on this? > > > > Online research also suggests that I should change out the OD fluid which is certainly old and a significant amount could have leaked out. I assume that the gear box has a drain and filler plug but have yet to find them. Should I refill to just short of overflowing or ......? > > > > I don't have the resources to pull and strip the OD myself so am hoping that I can get it working without hiring a professional. Does anyone have any words of wisdom and/or comfort? > > _____________________ > > Neil McDonald > > > > Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/nmcd10 at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From austinhealeyslist at gmail.com Mon Jan 2 18:15:01 2017 From: austinhealeyslist at gmail.com (Austin Healeys List) Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2017 14:15:01 +1300 Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive References: Why not run it on axle stands with the transmission cover off, then you can manually shift the lever. There is a distinct resistance at the point right before the ball lifts off its seat caused by the pressure acting on the ball which you won't feel when stationary. A weak solenoid that appears to work when stopped may not overcome this extra resistance. If there is no resistance point then there is likely no pressure. The Buckeye Triumph website has a very good writeup of OD issues. I don't believe there is any passage in the OD that can be cleaned out with a wire. Andy. On 1/3/17, Neil McDonald wrote: > One of my New Years resolutions, before I put the car back on the road after > sitting in the garage for several years, is to fix the overdrive so the car > is comfortable highway driving. It once (and once only) went into OD once > very briefly - which suggests that nothing mechanical is broken. > > So far I have persuaded myself that the OD electrics are fine and there is > adequate hydraulic pressure - around 390 psi if I recall correctly. I have > also checked the hydraulic valve adjustment using the "drill through the > actuating lever" method but not the direct "is the valve ball lifting by at > least 1/32 inch when the solenoid is actuated?" method. > > Somewhere I read that there is a small passage around the hydraulic valve > area which can get blocked and thus needs cleaning out with a wire. Is there > an internet link elaborating on this? > > Online research also suggests that I should change out the OD fluid which is > certainly old and a significant amount could have leaked out. I assume that > the gear box has a drain and filler plug but have yet to find them. Should I > refill to just short of overflowing or ......? > > I don't have the resources to pull and strip the OD myself so am hoping that > I can get it working without hiring a professional. Does anyone have any > words of wisdom and/or comfort? > _____________________ > Neil McDonald > > Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com > From jstmorris at yahoo.com Mon Jan 2 18:38:42 2017 From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris) Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2017 01:38:42 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive References: Good Day Neil and welcome to 2017The attached OD Trouble Shooting Flow Chart may be of some help in figuring out what the problem is.Good Luck --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives On Monday, January 2, 2017 3:34 PM, Neil McDonald wrote: One of my New Years resolutions, before I put the car back on the road after sitting in the garage for several years, is to fix the overdrive so the car is comfortable highway driving. It once (and once only) went into OD once very briefly - which suggests that nothing mechanical is broken. So far I have persuaded myself that the OD electrics are fine and there is adequate hydraulic pressure - around 390 psi if I recall correctly. I have also checked the hydraulic valve adjustment using the "drill through the actuating lever" method but not the direct "is the valve ball lifting by at least 1/32 inch when the solenoid is actuated?" method. Somewhere I read that there is a small passage around the hydraulic valve area which can get blocked and thus needs cleaning out with a wire. Is there an internet link elaborating on this? Online research also suggests that I should change out the OD fluid which is certainly old and a significant amount could have leaked out. I assume that the gear box has a drain and filler plug but have yet to find them. Should I refill to just short of overflowing or ......? I don't have the resources to pull and strip the OD myself so am hoping that I can get it working without hiring a professional. Does anyone have any words of wisdom and/or comfort? _____________________ Neil McDonald Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Trouble Shooting-Flow Chart.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 541979 bytes Desc: not available URL: From shepard7107 at verizon.net Mon Jan 2 19:08:03 2017 From: shepard7107 at verizon.net (Michael Shepard) Date: Mon, 02 Jan 2017 20:08:03 -0600 (CST) Subject: [Healeys] first drive of 2017 An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Mon Jan 2 20:51:20 2017 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=) Date: Mon, 02 Jan 2017 19:51:20 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?first_drive_of_2017?= since my healey is my daily driver i had to make a store run yesterday in our cold(by our standards) 45 degree wx. put a new top on this summer and have been driving around with it up to make sure it is tight and does not pull anywhere from the cold. normal day for me. From larry at patersondesign.ca Mon Jan 2 21:59:12 2017 From: larry at patersondesign.ca (Larry Paterson) Date: Mon, 02 Jan 2017 21:59:12 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] (no subject) An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.salter at gmail.com Tue Jan 3 07:03:14 2017 From: michael.salter at gmail.com (michael.salter at gmail.com) Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2017 14:03:14 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive References: Yes Neil, David is referring to the pump non return valve however if you are able to confirm that you have 390 p.s.i. in the overdrive that valve is not in need of checking. Michael S BN1 #174 Correct diagnosis is half of the repair. On Mon, Jan 2, 2017 at 9:02 PM -0500, "Neil McDonald" wrote: By referencing the check valve on the side of the pump, David Nock has taken me into new and uncharted territory!? I assume this valve is totally different from the ball lifted by the OD actuating lever? The mystery deepens with the reference to multiple balls and the need to ensure that they are in the right way. More help on this please._____________________Neil McDonald Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com On 2 Jan 2017, at 23:31, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: If the OD engages when cold, but disengages when it warms up your problem could be with leakage through the o-rings that seal the accumulator body to the housing. It's an easy fix, but removing the accumulator body is somewhat of a trick. I was advised to remove the side plate and the accumulator springs, place a dowel in the center of the accumulator piston to keep it from moving and apply air pressure through the actuator valve hole (after removing the valve and ball). The accumulator body is the large sleeve in which the accumulator piston resides. Bill Lawrence From: Healeys on behalf of Bob Spidell Sent: Monday, January 2, 2017 9:11:48 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive ? The OD and gearbox share fluid supply.? Take the car out for a run to get the fluid warmed-up, then get it up on a rack--preferably--or SAFELY on jackstands, as high as they'll go. There is a dipstick on top of the gearbox; check your fluid level before emptying--if it's low that could be at least part of your problem.? There is a drain plug on the bottom left side of the gearbox, and a big brass disk on the OD.? Older cars had a sensible square 'nut' on the OD plug, which can be turned with a big crescent wrench, and newer ones have a notched disk that requires a tool to be undone properly, but you can use a brass punch and hammer or other method.? When you drop the brass plug, there should be a cup-shaped screen and, possibly, a couple of soft, circular magnets. Let the fluid drain completely, then re-install the gearbox and OD plugs, being sure to a) place the magnets inside the plug and b) place the screen on top of the magnets.? It's difficult to stop leakage from the OD plug; use a new fiber washer and, possibly, some teflon tape on the threads of the plug (being careful to not get any inside the OD).? Top off with the fluid of your choice--'book' is 30W non-detergent, but most motor (20W-50) and synthetic gearbox oils work well--checking the level often with the dipstick.? Should take about 3.75 quarts. Don't know how you 'persuaded myself that the OD electrics are fine,' but my money's on the electrics--esp. the relay. Bob On 1/2/2017 10:56 AM, Neil McDonald wrote: > One of my New Years resolutions, before I put the car back on the road after sitting in the garage for several years, is to fix the overdrive so the car is comfortable highway driving. It once (and once only) went into OD once very briefly - which suggests that nothing mechanical is broken. > > So far I have persuaded myself that the OD electrics are fine and there is adequate hydraulic pressure - around 390 psi if I recall correctly. I have also checked the hydraulic valve adjustment using the "drill through the actuating lever" method but not the direct "is the valve ball lifting by at least 1/32 inch when the solenoid is actuated?" method. > > Somewhere I read that there is a small passage around the hydraulic valve area which can get blocked and thus needs cleaning out with a wire. Is there an internet link elaborating on this? > > Online research also suggests that I should change out the OD fluid which is certainly old and a significant amount could have leaked out. I assume that the gear box has a drain and filler plug but have yet to find them. Should I refill to just short of overflowing or ......? > > I don't have the resources to pull and strip the OD myself so am hoping that I can get it working without hiring a professional. Does anyone have any words of wisdom and/or comfort? > _____________________ > Neil McDonald > > Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From nmcd10 at gmail.com Tue Jan 3 08:02:06 2017 From: nmcd10 at gmail.com (Neil McDonald) Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2017 15:02:06 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive References: <749F94B05E660FF2.07577162-f9ce-43fe-b0bc-96d17c26096a@mail.outlook.com> Wonderful feedback. Thanks everyone. I have concluded that the most likely cause of my problems are low OD fluid levels and/or inadequate opening of the actuating valve. Both I can readily deal with. Right now I am five thousand miles away from my Healey so it will be a couple of months before I can confirm a fix. _____________________ Neil McDonald Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com Sent from my IPhone > On Jan 3, 2017, at 2:03 PM, michael.salter at gmail.com wrote: > > Yes Neil, David is referring to the pump non return valve however if you are able to confirm that you have 390 p.s.i. in the overdrive that valve is not in need of checking. > Michael S > BN1 #174 > > Correct diagnosis is half of the repair. > > > > On Mon, Jan 2, 2017 at 9:02 PM -0500, "Neil McDonald" wrote: > >> By referencing the check valve on the side of the pump, David Nock has taken me into new and uncharted territory! >> >> I assume this valve is totally different from the ball lifted by the OD actuating lever? The mystery deepens with the reference to multiple balls and the need to ensure that they are in the right way. >> >> More help on this please. >> _____________________ >> Neil McDonald >> >> Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com >> >> >>> On 2 Jan 2017, at 23:31, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: >>> >>> If the OD engages when cold, but disengages when it warms up your problem could be with leakage through the o-rings that seal the accumulator body to the housing. It's an easy fix, but removing the accumulator body is somewhat of a trick. I was advised to remove the side plate and the accumulator springs, place a dowel in the center of the accumulator piston to keep it from moving and apply air pressure through the actuator valve hole (after removing the valve and ball). The accumulator body is the large sleeve in which the accumulator piston resides. >>> >>> >>> Bill Lawrence >>> >>> >>> From: Healeys on behalf of Bob Spidell >>> Sent: Monday, January 2, 2017 9:11:48 PM >>> To: healeys at autox.team.net >>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive >>> >>> The OD and gearbox share fluid supply. Take the car out for a run to >>> get the fluid warmed-up, then get it up on a rack--preferably--or SAFELY >>> on jackstands, as high as they'll go. There is a dipstick on top of the >>> gearbox; check your fluid level before emptying--if it's low that could >>> be at least part of your problem. There is a drain plug on the bottom >>> left side of the gearbox, and a big brass disk on the OD. Older cars >>> had a sensible square 'nut' on the OD plug, which can be turned with a >>> big crescent wrench, and newer ones have a notched disk that requires a >>> tool to be undone properly, but you can use a brass punch and hammer or >>> other method. When you drop the brass plug, there should be a >>> cup-shaped screen and, possibly, a couple of soft, circular magnets. >>> >>> Let the fluid drain completely, then re-install the gearbox and OD >>> plugs, being sure to a) place the magnets inside the plug and b) place >>> the screen on top of the magnets. It's difficult to stop leakage from >>> the OD plug; use a new fiber washer and, possibly, some teflon tape on >>> the threads of the plug (being careful to not get any inside the OD). >>> Top off with the fluid of your choice--'book' is 30W non-detergent, but >>> most motor (20W-50) and synthetic gearbox oils work well--checking the >>> level often with the dipstick. Should take about 3.75 quarts. >>> >>> Don't know how you 'persuaded myself that the OD electrics are fine,' >>> but my money's on the electrics--esp. the relay. >>> >>> Bob >>> >>> >>> On 1/2/2017 10:56 AM, Neil McDonald wrote: >>> > One of my New Years resolutions, before I put the car back on the road after sitting in the garage for several years, is to fix the overdrive so the car is comfortable highway driving. It once (and once only) went into OD once very briefly - which suggests that nothing mechanical is broken. >>> > >>> > So far I have persuaded myself that the OD electrics are fine and there is adequate hydraulic pressure - around 390 psi if I recall correctly. I have also checked the hydraulic valve adjustment using the "drill through the actuating lever" method but not the direct "is the valve ball lifting by at least 1/32 inch when the solenoid is actuated?" method. >>> > >>> > Somewhere I read that there is a small passage around the hydraulic valve area which can get blocked and thus needs cleaning out with a wire. Is there an internet link elaborating on this? >>> > >>> > Online research also suggests that I should change out the OD fluid which is certainly old and a significant amount could have leaked out. I assume that the gear box has a drain and filler plug but have yet to find them. Should I refill to just short of overflowing or ......? >>> > >>> > I don't have the resources to pull and strip the OD myself so am hoping that I can get it working without hiring a professional. Does anyone have any words of wisdom and/or comfort? >>> > _____________________ >>> > Neil McDonald >>> > >>> > Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/nmcd10 at gmail.com >>> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rick at ewilkins.com Tue Jan 3 09:48:07 2017 From: rick at ewilkins.com (Rick Wilkins) Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2017 08:48:07 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive References: <749F94B05E660FF2.07577162-f9ce-43fe-b0bc-96d17c26096a@mail.outlook.com> <93717BF2-8D4E-4526-A79D-DA71ED00FB19@gmail.com> I've found that one of the simplest, and easiest to miss is the starting point of the actuating lever. Make sure it has a rubber rest attached to the flange. If that lever is too low from start, it will always be hard to engage. Wilko On Jan 3, 2017, at 7:02 AM, Neil McDonald wrote: > Wonderful feedback. Thanks everyone. > > I have concluded that the most likely cause of my problems are low OD fluid levels and/or inadequate opening of the actuating valve. Both I can readily deal with. > > Right now I am five thousand miles away from my Healey so it will be a couple of months before I can confirm a fix. > _____________________ > Neil McDonald > > Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com > > Sent from my IPhone > > On Jan 3, 2017, at 2:03 PM, michael.salter at gmail.com wrote: > >> Yes Neil, David is referring to the pump non return valve however if you are able to confirm that you have 390 p.s.i. in the overdrive that valve is not in need of checking. >> Michael S >> BN1 #174 >> >> Correct diagnosis is half of the repair. >> >> >> >> On Mon, Jan 2, 2017 at 9:02 PM -0500, "Neil McDonald" wrote: >> >> By referencing the check valve on the side of the pump, David Nock has taken me into new and uncharted territory! >> >> I assume this valve is totally different from the ball lifted by the OD actuating lever? The mystery deepens with the reference to multiple balls and the need to ensure that they are in the right way. >> >> More help on this please. >> _____________________ >> Neil McDonald >> >> Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com >> >> >> On 2 Jan 2017, at 23:31, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: >> >>> If the OD engages when cold, but disengages when it warms up your problem could be with leakage through the o-rings that seal the accumulator body to the housing. It's an easy fix, but removing the accumulator body is somewhat of a trick. I was advised to remove the side plate and the accumulator springs, place a dowel in the center of the accumulator piston to keep it from moving and apply air pressure through the actuator valve hole (after removing the valve and ball). The accumulator body is the large sleeve in which the accumulator piston resides. >>> >>> >>> Bill Lawrence >>> >>> From: Healeys on behalf of Bob Spidell >>> Sent: Monday, January 2, 2017 9:11:48 PM >>> To: healeys at autox.team.net >>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive >>> >>> The OD and gearbox share fluid supply. Take the car out for a run to >>> get the fluid warmed-up, then get it up on a rack--preferably--or SAFELY >>> on jackstands, as high as they'll go. There is a dipstick on top of the >>> gearbox; check your fluid level before emptying--if it's low that could >>> be at least part of your problem. There is a drain plug on the bottom >>> left side of the gearbox, and a big brass disk on the OD. Older cars >>> had a sensible square 'nut' on the OD plug, which can be turned with a >>> big crescent wrench, and newer ones have a notched disk that requires a >>> tool to be undone properly, but you can use a brass punch and hammer or >>> other method. When you drop the brass plug, there should be a >>> cup-shaped screen and, possibly, a couple of soft, circular magnets. >>> >>> Let the fluid drain completely, then re-install the gearbox and OD >>> plugs, being sure to a) place the magnets inside the plug and b) place >>> the screen on top of the magnets. It's difficult to stop leakage from >>> the OD plug; use a new fiber washer and, possibly, some teflon tape on >>> the threads of the plug (being careful to not get any inside the OD). >>> Top off with the fluid of your choice--'book' is 30W non-detergent, but >>> most motor (20W-50) and synthetic gearbox oils work well--checking the >>> level often with the dipstick. Should take about 3.75 quarts. >>> >>> Don't know how you 'persuaded myself that the OD electrics are fine,' >>> but my money's on the electrics--esp. the relay. >>> >>> Bob >>> >>> >>> On 1/2/2017 10:56 AM, Neil McDonald wrote: >>> > One of my New Years resolutions, before I put the car back on the road after sitting in the garage for several years, is to fix the overdrive so the car is comfortable highway driving. It once (and once only) went into OD once very briefly - which suggests that nothing mechanical is broken. >>> > >>> > So far I have persuaded myself that the OD electrics are fine and there is adequate hydraulic pressure - around 390 psi if I recall correctly. I have also checked the hydraulic valve adjustment using the "drill through the actuating lever" method but not the direct "is the valve ball lifting by at least 1/32 inch when the solenoid is actuated?" method. >>> > >>> > Somewhere I read that there is a small passage around the hydraulic valve area which can get blocked and thus needs cleaning out with a wire. Is there an internet link elaborating on this? >>> > >>> > Online research also suggests that I should change out the OD fluid which is certainly old and a significant amount could have leaked out. I assume that the gear box has a drain and filler plug but have yet to find them. Should I refill to just short of overflowing or ......? >>> > >>> > I don't have the resources to pull and strip the OD myself so am hoping that I can get it working without hiring a professional. Does anyone have any words of wisdom and/or comfort? >>> > _____________________ >>> > Neil McDonald >>> > >>> > Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/nmcd10 at gmail.com >>> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rick at ewilkins.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Tue Jan 3 10:05:00 2017 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2017 12:05:00 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] If you are having trouble sleeping!!! New post on my blog about Austin Healey 100 crankshafts... ?M ?ichael S BN1 #174? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Jan 3 13:44:02 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2017 20:44:02 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] first drive of 2017 References: <20797541.3547571.1483409283918.JavaMail.root@vms170029.mailsrvcs.net> "Never restored." That explains the smooth, subtle curve on the bottom of the body between the front and rear wheel wells, tying the wings and rocker panels together. That is very difficult to get right, and even the best resto shops sometimes don't get it perfect (esp. with some of the repop parts). Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Shepard" To: bspidell at comcast.net, "healeys" Sent: Monday, January 2, 2017 6:08:03 PM Subject: Re: Re: [Healeys] first drive of 2017 Thanks for the compliment Bob. Never restored. I have had it since 1973, my second year at college. It shows well from 20 feet away! Has its share of ragged edges up close. Cant bring myself to tear out the original intearior but it needs it. On 01/02/17, Bob Spidell wrote: Very nice! Original, or restored? On 1/2/2017 6:49 AM, Michael Shepard wrote: High 40s and sunny here in Baltimore. No top on my car but but not too cold with the right clothing. Had to give her a wash too! Michael 67 BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From austinhealeyslist at gmail.com Tue Jan 3 14:23:24 2017 From: austinhealeyslist at gmail.com (Austin Healeys List) Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2017 10:23:24 +1300 Subject: [Healeys] If you are having trouble sleeping!!! References: Thanks for the interesting breakfast read Michael. You don't mention much about vibration dampers, particularly tuned vs non-tuned. The factory rubber-bonded style damper only works correctly on the engine it came off as it can only damp one specific frequency. There are a host of aftermarket designs that use viscous fluid or 'rattler' pucks to achieve damping at any frequency and regardless of engine type. I believe guys are even making them to go on the flywheel to damp vibes at both ends. For a relatively simple piece of engineering, their prices seem to be based on "it is still cheaper than a blown up engine". Another thing that doesn't get much mention and is a direct result of crankshaft torsional flex is timing scatter. The vibrations find their way through the cam chain and into the distributor where they react with the flyweights and other parts so the timing, and equally importantly the dwell can vary wildly at high rpm. I heard that some Chrysler V engines with the distributor at the back will explode the flyweights if fitted with a gear drive cam since the chain dampens out a fair amount of vibration. The BMC six cylinder timing marks will scatter around an inch or so at high speed, more when suddenly closing the throttle as this is where the most crankshaft stress occurs. Andy. On 1/4/17, Michael Salter wrote: > New post on my blog about Austin Healey 100 crankshafts... > > > ?M > ?ichael S > BN1 #174? > From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Jan 3 15:49:18 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2017 14:49:18 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] If you are having trouble sleeping!!! References: Very useful info, as always. Was wondering how much 'de-stroking' the engine--shorter piston/rod thows--would help? Of course, you'd need to source yet another type of crankshaft, conrods, etc.. Bob On 1/3/2017 1:23 PM, Austin Healeys List wrote: > Thanks for the interesting breakfast read Michael. > > You don't mention much about vibration dampers, particularly tuned vs > non-tuned. The factory rubber-bonded style damper only works correctly > on the engine it came off as it can only damp one specific frequency. > There are a host of aftermarket designs that use viscous fluid or > 'rattler' pucks to achieve damping at any frequency and regardless of > engine type. I believe guys are even making them to go on the flywheel > to damp vibes at both ends. For a relatively simple piece of > engineering, their prices seem to be based on "it is still cheaper > than a blown up engine". > > Another thing that doesn't get much mention and is a direct result of > crankshaft torsional flex is timing scatter. The vibrations find their > way through the cam chain and into the distributor where they react > with the flyweights and other parts so the timing, and equally > importantly the dwell can vary wildly at high rpm. I heard that some > Chrysler V engines with the distributor at the back will explode the > flyweights if fitted with a gear drive cam since the chain dampens out > a fair amount of vibration. The BMC six cylinder timing marks will > scatter around an inch or so at high speed, more when suddenly closing > the throttle as this is where the most crankshaft stress occurs. > > Andy. > > On 1/4/17, Michael Salter wrote: >> New post on my blog about Austin Healey 100 crankshafts... >> >> >> ?M >> ?ichael S >> BN1 #174? >> From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue Jan 3 18:16:17 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2017 01:16:17 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] If you are having trouble sleeping!!! References: <8185099a-5f19-64fa-db0e-f318a005da43@comcast.net> OK, you guys have me sufficiently scared to finish putting this stock 100-4 engine together only to have it grenade the crank somewhere down the road.? Probably when I am at the furthest point from home. Mike MacLean On Tuesday, January 3, 2017 3:16 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: Very useful info, as always.? Was wondering how much 'de-stroking' the engine--shorter piston/rod thows--would help?? Of course, you'd need to source yet another type of crankshaft, conrods, etc.. Bob On 1/3/2017 1:23 PM, Austin Healeys List wrote: > Thanks for the interesting breakfast read Michael. > > You don't mention much about vibration dampers, particularly tuned vs > non-tuned. The factory rubber-bonded style damper only works correctly > on the engine it came off as it can only damp one specific frequency. > There are a host of aftermarket designs that use viscous fluid or > 'rattler' pucks to achieve damping at any frequency and regardless of > engine type. I believe guys are even making them to go on the flywheel > to damp vibes at both ends. For a relatively simple piece of > engineering, their prices seem to be based on "it is still cheaper > than a blown up engine". > > Another thing that doesn't get much mention and is a direct result of > crankshaft torsional flex is timing scatter. The vibrations find their > way through the cam chain and into the distributor where they react > with the flyweights and other parts so the timing, and equally > importantly the dwell can vary wildly at high rpm. I heard that some > Chrysler V engines with the distributor at the back will explode the > flyweights if fitted with a gear drive cam since the chain dampens out > a fair amount of vibration. The BMC six cylinder timing marks will > scatter around an inch or so at high speed, more when suddenly closing > the throttle as this is where the most crankshaft stress occurs. > > Andy. > > On 1/4/17, Michael Salter wrote: >> New post on my blog about Austin Healey 100 crankshafts... >> >> >> ?M >> ?ichael S >> BN1 #174? >> _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Jan 3 19:03:36 2017 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2017 10:03:36 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] The Crown All - As someone who owns an original 100 painted Coronet Cream, I think this is slightly remotely Healey related. Been watching Netflix's "The Crown" about Elizabeth II. It's actually very well done, excellent show, although I do have to say the real Elizabeth was a bit more svelte and attractive than the actress they've cast as her, but otherwise a good show to watch. Lots of old early 50's LBCs in the show, although it does appear to me they have tended to accept late 1950's cars and boats as acceptable to use in a movie about 1952, but I quibble. Cheers, Alan -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From derek.c.job at gmail.com Wed Jan 4 02:01:36 2017 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2017 09:01:36 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] If you are having trouble sleeping!!! References: <8185099a-5f19-64fa-db0e-f318a005da43@comcast.net> <753426854.5677318.1483492577852@mail.yahoo.com> Great read Michael. On Wed, Jan 4, 2017 at 1:16 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: > OK, you guys have me sufficiently scared to finish putting this stock > 100-4 engine together only to have it grenade the crank somewhere down the > road. Probably when I am at the furthest point from home. > Mike MacLean > > > On Tuesday, January 3, 2017 3:16 PM, Bob Spidell > wrote: > > > > > Very useful info, as always. Was wondering how much 'de-stroking' the > engine--shorter piston/rod thows--would help? Of course, you'd need to > source yet another type of crankshaft, conrods, etc.. > > Bob > > > On 1/3/2017 1:23 PM, Austin Healeys List wrote: > > Thanks for the interesting breakfast read Michael. > > > > You don't mention much about vibration dampers, particularly tuned vs > > non-tuned. The factory rubber-bonded style damper only works correctly > > on the engine it came off as it can only damp one specific frequency. > > There are a host of aftermarket designs that use viscous fluid or > > 'rattler' pucks to achieve damping at any frequency and regardless of > > engine type. I believe guys are even making them to go on the flywheel > > to damp vibes at both ends. For a relatively simple piece of > > engineering, their prices seem to be based on "it is still cheaper > > than a blown up engine". > > > > Another thing that doesn't get much mention and is a direct result of > > crankshaft torsional flex is timing scatter. The vibrations find their > > way through the cam chain and into the distributor where they react > > with the flyweights and other parts so the timing, and equally > > importantly the dwell can vary wildly at high rpm. I heard that some > > Chrysler V engines with the distributor at the back will explode the > > flyweights if fitted with a gear drive cam since the chain dampens out > > a fair amount of vibration. The BMC six cylinder timing marks will > > scatter around an inch or so at high speed, more when suddenly closing > > the throttle as this is where the most crankshaft stress occurs. > > > > Andy. > > > > On 1/4/17, Michael Salter wrote: > >> New post on my blog about Austin Healey 100 crankshafts... > >> healey-100-crank-failures/> > >> > >> ?M > >> ?ichael S > >> BN1 #174? > >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From nmcd10 at gmail.com Wed Jan 4 04:05:18 2017 From: nmcd10 at gmail.com (Neil McDonald) Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2017 11:05:18 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive Yesterday I wrote "I have concluded that the most likely cause of my problems are low OD fluid levels and/or inadequate opening of the actuating valve. Both I can readily deal with." In off line discussions with Steve Byers I have added a third and ominous possibility, a defective accumulator. The good hydraulic pressure already confirmed only indicates that the pump is OK because testing was not done while trying to engage the OD. My understanding is that OD engagement is the accumulator's function and the pump's role is to pressurise the accumulator for this task before OD engagement. A definitive test of accumulator condition seems to be how well it holds pressure after the engine is switched off! _____________________ Neil McDonald Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeybn4 at aol.com Wed Jan 4 05:45:59 2017 From: healeybn4 at aol.com (Peter Sturtevant) Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2017 07:45:59 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] CG Autowood Healey subscribers, Does any one have experience with CG Autowood of Norwalk, CT and the quality of their reproduction Burl Walnut BJ8 dashboards? They are regular sellers on eBay. How is their quality and how does the dash compare with the originals? My Phase 1 BJ8 is an excellent driver, and not concours. All recommendations will be appreciated Pete Sturtevant AHCA NE Secretary/Webmaster 774-284-1212 From michaelsalter at gmail.com Wed Jan 4 07:53:26 2017 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2017 09:53:26 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive References: Hi again Neil, With all due respects to Steve I would not suspect the accumulator because it is in the hydraulic circuit ahead of the operating valve. If the accumulator was leaking badly enough to prevent the overdrive from engaging you would never see 390 p.s.i. if you are testing at the operating valve plug with the ball and spring in position. Although the specified pressure for our units is 470 - 490 p.s.i. I have never seen one achieve 490 p.s.i. and have found units that operated quite satisfactorily with pressures as low as 300 p.s.i. hot. Someone suggested running the car on stands and manually lifting the valve setting lever. That is how I test for correct operation BUT PLEASE be ware of that driveshaft spinning next to your right hip. Getting yourself tangled up in that will ruin your day. Michael S BN1 #174 On Wed, Jan 4, 2017 at 6:05 AM, Neil McDonald wrote: > Yesterday I wrote "I have concluded that the most likely cause of my > problems are low OD fluid levels and/or inadequate opening of the actuating > valve. Both I can readily deal with." > > In off line discussions with Steve Byers I have added a third and ominous > possibility, a defective accumulator. The good hydraulic pressure already > confirmed only indicates that the pump is OK because testing was not done > while trying to engage the OD. My understanding is that OD engagement is > the accumulator's function and the pump's role is to pressurise the > accumulator for this task *before* OD engagement. A definitive test of > accumulator condition seems to be how well it holds pressure after the > engine is switched off! > _____________________ > Neil McDonald > > Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > > -- *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Wed Jan 4 08:46:36 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2017 10:46:36 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive References: Mike, what I mentioned to Neil is that both times I have had problems with my overdrive failing to engage, or engaging sluggishly, the problem was the accumulator. The first time it would engage when cold, but not when hot. The accumulator walls were severely gouged, probably from too much debris in the oil from not having been changed frequently enough before I got the car. I found no other problems. I concluded that the massive leakage prevented the accumulator piston from moving back far enough against the spring to direct the oil to the metering pin. The second time, the overdrive was slow to engage, felt like it was slipping, and would make a whirring noise as it tried to do so. I put a gauge on the O/D and went for a drive. I was reading 350 psi before the O/D switch was flipped, dropping to 100 psi at it tried to engage and back up to 350 - 365 psi after engagement. I found a broken accumulator piston ring and a loose ring in the bottom of the accumulator bore. After correcting that (and a broken thrust washer behind the planetaries), I read 450 psi before flipping the O/D switch and 250 psi as it engaged. I neglected to record the recovery pressure. This was done on a test rig and I did not repeat the test on the road since the O/D worked perfectly after reinstallation in the car. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Salter Sent: Wednesday, January 04, 2017 9:53 AM To: Neil McDonald Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive Hi again Neil, With all due respects to Steve I would not suspect the accumulator because it is in the hydraulic circuit ahead of the operating valve. If the accumulator was leaking badly enough to prevent the overdrive from engaging you would never see 390 p.s.i. if you are testing at the operating valve plug with the ball and spring in position. Although the specified pressure for our units is 470 - 490 p.s.i. I have never seen one achieve 490 p.s.i. and have found units that operated quite satisfactorily with pressures as low as 300 p.s.i. hot. Someone suggested running the car on stands and manually lifting the valve setting lever. That is how I test for correct operation BUT PLEASE be ware of that driveshaft spinning next to your right hip. Getting yourself tangled up in that will ruin your day. Michael S BN1 #174 On Wed, Jan 4, 2017 at 6:05 AM, Neil McDonald wrote: Yesterday I wrote "I have concluded that the most likely cause of my problems are low OD fluid levels and/or inadequate opening of the actuating valve. Both I can readily deal with." In off line discussions with Steve Byers I have added a third and ominous possibility, a defective accumulator. The good hydraulic pressure already confirmed only indicates that the pump is OK because testing was not done while trying to engage the OD. My understanding is that OD engagement is the accumulator's function and the pump's role is to pressurise the accumulator for this task before OD engagement. A definitive test of accumulator condition seems to be how well it holds pressure after the engine is switched off! _____________________ Neil McDonald Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Wed Jan 4 09:47:48 2017 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2017 11:47:48 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive References: <024d01d266a1$bbe74770$33b5d650$@rr.com> Hi Steve, Best wishes for a Happy and Prosperous New Year. Yep those symptoms mostly make sense. *"The first time it would engage when cold, but not when hot. The accumulator walls were severely gouged, probably from too much debris in the oil from not having been changed frequently enough before I got the car. I found no other problems. I concluded that the massive leakage prevented the accumulator piston from moving back far enough against the spring to direct the oil to the metering pin."* In this case unfortunately you don't mention the pre-repair test pressures but they would have been quite low, probably 300 odd cold and below 250 hot, meaning that there was not enough pressure to move the clutch against the springs. I would imagine that as your drove and the oil heated up the unit would have started to slip and then dropped out of overdrive altogether. *The second time, the overdrive was slow to engage, felt like it was slipping, and would make a whirring noise as it tried to do so. I put a gauge on the O/D and went for a drive. I was reading 350 psi before the O/D switch was flipped, dropping to 100 psi at it tried to engage and back up to 350 - 365 psi after engagement. I found a broken accumulator piston ring and a loose ring in the bottom of the accumulator bore. After correcting that (and a broken thrust washer behind the planetaries), I read 450 psi before flipping the O/D switch and 250 psi as it engaged. I neglected to record the recovery pressure. This was done on a test rig and I did not repeat the test on the road since the O/D worked perfectly after reinstallation in the car.* In this case the pressure during engagement is a little low but that is, as you found, probably due to damage in the accumulator. I'm surprised to hear that it slipped with a 350 -360 engaged pressure but that may have had something to do with the broken thrust preventing full travel of the clutch member...not sure about that one.. I have experienced that whirring noise on some units as well I suspect it is the unidirectional clutch slipping.. I envy your test rig...I always intended to build one but I never got a round tuit... M On Wed, Jan 4, 2017 at 10:46 AM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > Mike, what I mentioned to Neil is that both times I have had problems with > my overdrive failing to engage, or engaging sluggishly, the problem was the > accumulator. The first time it would engage when cold, but not when hot. > The accumulator walls were severely gouged, probably from too much debris > in the oil from not having been changed frequently enough before I got the > car. I found no other problems. I concluded that the massive leakage > prevented the accumulator piston from moving back far enough against the > spring to direct the oil to the metering pin. > > The second time, the overdrive was slow to engage, felt like it was > slipping, and would make a whirring noise as it tried to do so. I put a > gauge on the O/D and went for a drive. I was reading 350 psi before the > O/D switch was flipped, dropping to 100 psi at it tried to engage and back > up to 350 - 365 psi after engagement. I found a broken accumulator piston > ring and a loose ring in the bottom of the accumulator bore. After > correcting that (and a broken thrust washer behind the planetaries), I read > 450 psi before flipping the O/D switch and 250 psi as it engaged. I > neglected to record the recovery pressure. This was done on a test rig and > I did not repeat the test on the road since the O/D worked perfectly after > reinstallation in the car. > > > > Steve Byers > > HBJ8L/36666 > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > Havelock, NC > > > > > > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Michael > Salter > *Sent:* Wednesday, January 04, 2017 9:53 AM > *To:* Neil McDonald > *Cc:* Healey List > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive > > > > Hi again Neil, > > With all due respects to Steve I would not suspect the accumulator because > it is in the hydraulic circuit ahead of the operating valve. > > If the accumulator was leaking badly enough to prevent the overdrive from > engaging you would never see 390 p.s.i. if you are testing at the operating > valve plug with the ball and spring in position. > > Although the specified pressure for our units is 470 - 490 p.s.i. I have > never seen one achieve 490 p.s.i. and have found units that operated quite > satisfactorily with pressures as low as 300 p.s.i. hot. > > Someone suggested running the car on stands and manually lifting the valve > setting lever. That is how I test for correct operation BUT PLEASE be ware > of that driveshaft spinning next to your right hip. Getting yourself > tangled up in that will ruin your day. > > Michael S > > BN1 #174 > > > > On Wed, Jan 4, 2017 at 6:05 AM, Neil McDonald wrote: > > Yesterday I wrote "I have concluded that the most likely cause of my > problems are low OD fluid levels and/or inadequate opening of the actuating > valve. Both I can readily deal with." > > > > In off line discussions with Steve Byers I have added a third and ominous > possibility, a defective accumulator. The good hydraulic pressure already > confirmed only indicates that the pump is OK because testing was not done > while trying to engage the OD. My understanding is that OD engagement is > the accumulator's function and the pump's role is to pressurise the > accumulator for this task *before* OD engagement. A definitive test of > accumulator condition seems to be how well it holds pressure after the > engine is switched off! > > _____________________ > > Neil McDonald > > > > Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > > -- *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From nmcd10 at gmail.com Wed Jan 4 10:14:32 2017 From: nmcd10 at gmail.com (Neil McDonald) Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2017 17:14:32 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive References: <024d01d266a1$bbe74770$33b5d650$@rr.com> Well this is all a great OD education, so let me ask another question. Michael Salter said "If the accumulator was leaking badly enough to prevent the overdrive from engaging you would never see 390 p.s.i. if you are testing at the operating valve plug with the ball and spring in position". My pressure testing rig is based on an old Del Border suggestion of connecting the pressure gauge through a hole in a spare operating valve plug. I can not recall whether I tested with the ball and spring in position or not. I suspect that they were both out. Would this invalidate my results? _____________________ Neil McDonald Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com > On 4 Jan 2017, at 16:47, Michael Salter wrote: > > f the accumulator was leaking badly enough to prevent the overdrive from engaging you would never see 390 p.s.i. if you are testing at the operating valve plug with the ball and spring in position. From michaelsalter at gmail.com Wed Jan 4 10:23:40 2017 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2017 12:23:40 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive References: <024d01d266a1$bbe74770$33b5d650$@rr.com> Hi Neil, By testing without the ball and spring you would get a totally invalid result because oil would leak down the center of the operating valve push rod and out through the small pressure relief hole to the sump. When the overdrive is engaged and the operating valve ball is lifted off its seat by the push rod the hole in the top of the push rod is blocked by the ball being held against it by the spring. M On Wed, Jan 4, 2017 at 12:14 PM, Neil McDonald wrote: > Well this is all a great OD education, so let me ask another question. > > Michael Salter said "If the accumulator was leaking badly enough to > prevent the overdrive from engaging you would never see 390 p.s.i. if you > are testing at the operating valve plug with the ball and spring in > position". > > My pressure testing rig is based on an old Del Border suggestion of > connecting the pressure gauge through a hole in a spare operating valve > plug. I can not recall whether I tested with the ball and spring in > position or not. > > I suspect that they were both out. Would this invalidate my results? > _____________________ > Neil McDonald > > Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com > > > > On 4 Jan 2017, at 16:47, Michael Salter wrote: > > > > f the accumulator was leaking badly enough to prevent the overdrive from > engaging you would never see 390 p.s.i. if you are testing at the operating > valve plug with the ball and spring in position. > -- *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Wed Jan 4 16:02:56 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2017 18:02:56 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive References: <024d01d266a1$bbe74770$33b5d650$@rr.com> Mike, the first O/D problem occurred shortly after I bought the car back in the '80s. I had no test gauge to check the pressures and didn't know much about the system anyway. The O/D would shift and stay engaged as long as it was engaged when cold. But whenever I had to stop after the oil got hot, it would shift out and never shift back in again until the oil was cold. Those symptoms lasted for a while (a year or two, as I recall), and then the overdrive quit shifting at all. I had a spare BJ7 gearbox/overdrive so I installed that. The overdrive in that one worked exactly like the BJ8 O/D did before it quit pissed0002.gif The second O/D problem occurred two years ago. My friend and usual long-distance BJ8 traveling companion, George Haywood, had the motor available and built the test rig himself without my knowledge until he brought it over to test my overdrive (photo attached). It worked great after we figured out how to couple the motor shaft to the input shaft of the gearbox. We used a short length of thick-walled rubber hose and 2 band clamps (oriented 180-deg. out for balance). The first length of hose was too long, and it allowed some instability in the RPMs between the motor and input shaft. After we shortened the hose enough, it worked great. Happy Healey 2017! Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: michael.salter at gmail.com [mailto:michael.salter at gmail.com] On Behalf Of Michael Salter Sent: Wednesday, January 04, 2017 11:48 AM To: BJ8Healeys Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive Hi Steve, Best wishes for a Happy and Prosperous New Year. Yep those symptoms mostly make sense. "The first time it would engage when cold, but not when hot. The accumulator walls were severely gouged, probably from too much debris in the oil from not having been changed frequently enough before I got the car. I found no other problems. I concluded that the massive leakage prevented the accumulator piston from moving back far enough against the spring to direct the oil to the metering pin." In this case unfortunately you don't mention the pre-repair test pressures but they would have been quite low, probably 300 odd cold and below 250 hot, meaning that there was not enough pressure to move the clutch against the springs. I would imagine that as your drove and the oil heated up the unit would have started to slip and then dropped out of overdrive altogether. The second time, the overdrive was slow to engage, felt like it was slipping, and would make a whirring noise as it tried to do so. I put a gauge on the O/D and went for a drive. I was reading 350 psi before the O/D switch was flipped, dropping to 100 psi at it tried to engage and back up to 350 - 365 psi after engagement. I found a broken accumulator piston ring and a loose ring in the bottom of the accumulator bore. After correcting that (and a broken thrust washer behind the planetaries), I read 450 psi before flipping the O/D switch and 250 psi as it engaged. I neglected to record the recovery pressure. This was done on a test rig and I did not repeat the test on the road since the O/D worked perfectly after reinstallation in the car. In this case the pressure during engagement is a little low but that is, as you found, probably due to damage in the accumulator. I'm surprised to hear that it slipped with a 350 -360 engaged pressure but that may have had something to do with the broken thrust preventing full travel of the clutch member...not sure about that one.. I have experienced that whirring noise on some units as well I suspect it is the unidirectional clutch slipping.. I envy your test rig...I always intended to build one but I never got a round tuit... M On Wed, Jan 4, 2017 at 10:46 AM, BJ8Healeys wrote: Mike, what I mentioned to Neil is that both times I have had problems with my overdrive failing to engage, or engaging sluggishly, the problem was the accumulator. The first time it would engage when cold, but not when hot. The accumulator walls were severely gouged, probably from too much debris in the oil from not having been changed frequently enough before I got the car. I found no other problems. I concluded that the massive leakage prevented the accumulator piston from moving back far enough against the spring to direct the oil to the metering pin. The second time, the overdrive was slow to engage, felt like it was slipping, and would make a whirring noise as it tried to do so. I put a gauge on the O/D and went for a drive. I was reading 350 psi before the O/D switch was flipped, dropping to 100 psi at it tried to engage and back up to 350 - 365 psi after engagement. I found a broken accumulator piston ring and a loose ring in the bottom of the accumulator bore. After correcting that (and a broken thrust washer behind the planetaries), I read 450 psi before flipping the O/D switch and 250 psi as it engaged. I neglected to record the recovery pressure. This was done on a test rig and I did not repeat the test on the road since the O/D worked perfectly after reinstallation in the car. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Salter Sent: Wednesday, January 04, 2017 9:53 AM To: Neil McDonald Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive Hi again Neil, With all due respects to Steve I would not suspect the accumulator because it is in the hydraulic circuit ahead of the operating valve. If the accumulator was leaking badly enough to prevent the overdrive from engaging you would never see 390 p.s.i. if you are testing at the operating valve plug with the ball and spring in position. Although the specified pressure for our units is 470 - 490 p.s.i. I have never seen one achieve 490 p.s.i. and have found units that operated quite satisfactorily with pressures as low as 300 p.s.i. hot. Someone suggested running the car on stands and manually lifting the valve setting lever. That is how I test for correct operation BUT PLEASE be ware of that driveshaft spinning next to your right hip. Getting yourself tangled up in that will ruin your day. Michael S BN1 #174 On Wed, Jan 4, 2017 at 6:05 AM, Neil McDonald wrote: Yesterday I wrote "I have concluded that the most likely cause of my problems are low OD fluid levels and/or inadequate opening of the actuating valve. Both I can readily deal with." In off line discussions with Steve Byers I have added a third and ominous possibility, a defective accumulator. The good hydraulic pressure already confirmed only indicates that the pump is OK because testing was not done while trying to engage the OD. My understanding is that OD engagement is the accumulator's function and the pump's role is to pressurise the accumulator for this task before OD engagement. A definitive test of accumulator condition seems to be how well it holds pressure after the engine is switched off! _____________________ Neil McDonald Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -- If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem. No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2016.0.7996 / Virus Database: 4749/13706 - Release Date: 01/04/17 _____ No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2016.0.7924 / Virus Database: 4739/13675 - Release Date: 12/30/16 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.gif Type: image/gif Size: 1984 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: George's test rig2.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 102188 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Testing the overdrive (George at work2).jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 97923 bytes Desc: not available URL: From austinhealeyslist at gmail.com Thu Jan 5 18:29:02 2017 From: austinhealeyslist at gmail.com (Austin Healeys List) Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2017 14:29:02 +1300 Subject: [Healeys] BN4 reflector rubbers My BN4 reflector rubbers are very tired and likely to fall out, but it seems nobody has reproduced them yet. Apart from fitting the later style flat ones, what options are there for keeping the 'bullets'? If nothing is available then I'll try casting them in polyurethane rubber. In anticipation of nothing available, I made a quick model of the rubber but it is so perished much of the detail is lost. Would anyone have an original rubber in reasonable condition to get some dimensions off or a pic of please? Andy. -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: reflector.png Type: image/png Size: 184361 bytes Desc: not available URL: From nmcd10 at gmail.com Fri Jan 6 05:53:54 2017 From: nmcd10 at gmail.com (Neil McDonald) Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2017 12:53:54 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Tyres Discovered this very interesting picture from the Longstone Tyres (UK) website illustrating different Healey tyre options. The middle tyre with a white label is the original 590/15 and the two on the right hand end are the very common 165/15 radial replacements which Moss Motors recommends and are as currently fitted to my car. Longstone recommends the Michelin XAS 180HR15 pictured on the immediate right of the 590/15 - apparently for all big Healeys. Note the different diameters! In view of ground clearance concerns it seems to me that 180/15 is the way to go. However checking these same tyres on the Coker (US) website, they say that they are intended for 5-6.5 inch rims..... but the BN6 only has 4" rims! Should I be concerned at this apparent Longstone-Coker-Moss conflict? -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0427.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 25328 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- _____________________ Neil McDonald Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Fri Jan 6 09:37:26 2017 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2017 08:37:26 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] BN4 reflector rubbers References: Get the later style reflectors, pull them apart to install and then install the cones. If you need the cones we have them available. David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com -----Original Message----- From: Austin Healeys List Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2017 5:29 PM To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BN4 reflector rubbers My BN4 reflector rubbers are very tired and likely to fall out, but it seems nobody has reproduced them yet. Apart from fitting the later style flat ones, what options are there for keeping the 'bullets'? If nothing is available then I'll try casting them in polyurethane rubber. In anticipation of nothing available, I made a quick model of the rubber but it is so perished much of the detail is lost. Would anyone have an original rubber in reasonable condition to get some dimensions off or a pic of please? Andy. _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From michael.oritt at gmail.com Fri Jan 6 09:52:28 2017 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2017 11:52:28 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Scissor jack References: <7E6379C4-B448-486D-97B8-F5852C509CC9@comcast.net> With 180-15R Michelin XAS tires inflated to 30 psi my 100's ground clearance at front and rear frame cross-members is 7.5" which decreases to 5.5" when all air is let out of a tire. This allows me to use a small 2-ton CarQuest scissor jack which carries an MVP label and is similar to this one: http://www.toolpan.com/ATD-Tools-7462--2-Ton-Scissor-Jack_p_1290.html?gdffi=d5de8d975e554fe98677ff5f83efd439&gd It collapses down to 4.5" and stows nicely in the compartment to the left of the spare. Best--Michael Oritt On Mon, Dec 26, 2016 at 12:55 PM, ROBERT A WESTCOTT <55healey at comcast.net> wrote: > Remamber folks, The scissor jack needs to be placed under the side of a > car when jacking. > > Placing one under the rear crossmember without chocking the front wheels > will allow the car to roll forward off the jack allowing it to tip forward > so the scissor jack screw > can punch a 1/2? hole in the rear skirt panel under the bumper. Don?t ask > me how I know. > > By the way, if the car happened to roll backward, the other side of the > screw would have punched that 1/2? hole in the almost full gas tank dumping > all that gas on the shop floor. > > I think we could write a book on all the really bad things that can and > have happened while jacking up our cars. > > Rob > > > On Dec 25, 2016, at 2:34 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > > > Don't think HF has what you want. Don't think you can beat this (NFI): > > > > http://www.ebay.com/itm/Liftmaster-1-5-Ton-3300lb- > Scissor-Jack-with-Force-Reduction-Drive/322368428129?_ > trksid=p2141725.c100338.m3726&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo% > 3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20150313114020%26meid% > 3D4095f99da41c468ca6e7d7567b28a111%26pid%3D100338%26rk%3D1% > 26rkt%3D30%26sd%3D112156936669 > > > > I went looking for these a couple years ago and barely found one; looks > like someone has gotten back in the business. Only thing that I don't like > is the handle comes out of the slot too easily. > > > > > > On 12/25/2016 2:30 PM, i erbs wrote: > >> I think I used to have one as I found the handle for one a few months > ago :) > >> I think the scissor jack makes more sense. I'll head to harbor freight > tomorrow. > >> Funny how I never had a spare in the car during the 10 year use as a > daily driver. But can't stop thinking about how important it is now. I have > disk wheel and disk brakes, so I wont be able to borrow a spare form anyone > in the club when we tour... > >> > >> Ira Erbs > >> Portland,OR > >> _______ _______ > >> (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > >> (_________________________) > >> BT7 engine and disk brakes > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Jan 6 10:55:19 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2017 09:55:19 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Scissor jack References: <7E6379C4-B448-486D-97B8-F5852C509CC9@comcast.net> Thanks, I bought scissor jack with a gear reduction option for fewer turns. I need to make a handle extension. I have never run with both a jack and a spare tire in over 40 years of driving. No what I am older and wiser, I thought it might be a good idea :) Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Fri, Jan 6, 2017 at 8:52 AM, Michael Oritt wrote: > With 180-15R Michelin XAS tires inflated to 30 psi my 100's ground > clearance at front and rear frame cross-members is 7.5" which decreases to > 5.5" when all air is let out of a tire. > > This allows me to use a small 2-ton CarQuest scissor jack which carries > an MVP label and is similar to this one: > > http://www.toolpan.com/ATD-Tools-7462--2-Ton-Scissor- > Jack_p_1290.html?gdffi=d5de8d975e554fe98677ff5f83efd439&gd > > It collapses down to 4.5" and stows nicely in the compartment to the left > of the spare. > > Best--Michael Oritt > > > On Mon, Dec 26, 2016 at 12:55 PM, ROBERT A WESTCOTT <55healey at comcast.net> > wrote: > >> Remamber folks, The scissor jack needs to be placed under the side of a >> car when jacking. >> >> Placing one under the rear crossmember without chocking the front wheels >> will allow the car to roll forward off the jack allowing it to tip forward >> so the scissor jack screw >> can punch a 1/2? hole in the rear skirt panel under the bumper. Don?t >> ask me how I know. >> >> By the way, if the car happened to roll backward, the other side of the >> screw would have punched that 1/2? hole in the almost full gas tank dumping >> all that gas on the shop floor. >> >> I think we could write a book on all the really bad things that can and >> have happened while jacking up our cars. >> >> Rob >> >> > On Dec 25, 2016, at 2:34 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: >> > >> > Don't think HF has what you want. Don't think you can beat this (NFI): >> > >> > http://www.ebay.com/itm/Liftmaster-1-5-Ton-3300lb-Scissor- >> Jack-with-Force-Reduction-Drive/322368428129?_trksid= >> p2141725.c100338.m3726&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3 >> DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20150313114020%26meid%3D4095f99da4 >> 1c468ca6e7d7567b28a111%26pid%3D100338%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D30% >> 26sd%3D112156936669 >> > >> > I went looking for these a couple years ago and barely found one; looks >> like someone has gotten back in the business. Only thing that I don't like >> is the handle comes out of the slot too easily. >> > >> > >> > On 12/25/2016 2:30 PM, i erbs wrote: >> >> I think I used to have one as I found the handle for one a few months >> ago :) >> >> I think the scissor jack makes more sense. I'll head to harbor >> freight tomorrow. >> >> Funny how I never had a spare in the car during the 10 year use as a >> daily driver. But can't stop thinking about how important it is now. I have >> disk wheel and disk brakes, so I wont be able to borrow a spare form anyone >> in the club when we tour... >> >> >> >> Ira Erbs >> >> Portland,OR >> >> _______ _______ >> >> (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) >> >> (_________________________) >> >> BT7 engine and disk brakes >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com >> >> > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From josef-eckert at t-online.de Fri Jan 6 11:13:22 2017 From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de) Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2017 19:13:22 +0100 (MET) Subject: [Healeys] BN4 reflector rubbers References: Andy, You can get the complette reflector new from SC Parts UK: http://www.scparts.co.uk/sc_en/british-cars/austin-healey/austin-healey-bn1-to-bj8-1952-1968/electrics-ignition-system-heating-and-dashboard/lamps.html#84 see 84, PartNo 206240 Josef Eckert Konigswinter/Germany -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: [Healeys] BN4 reflector rubbers Datum: 2017-01-06T05:01:21+0100 Von: "Austin Healeys List" An: "Healeys at autox.team.net" My BN4 reflector rubbers are very tired and likely to fall out, but it seems nobody has reproduced them yet. Apart from fitting the later style flat ones, what options are there for keeping the 'bullets'? If nothing is available then I'll try casting them in polyurethane rubber. In anticipation of nothing available, I made a quick model of the rubber but it is so perished much of the detail is lost. Would anyone have an original rubber in reasonable condition to get some dimensions off or a pic of please? Andy. ? From austinhealeyslist at gmail.com Fri Jan 6 12:49:29 2017 From: austinhealeyslist at gmail.com (Austin Healeys List) Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2017 08:49:29 +1300 Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Tyres References: The 180 XAS are a good fit on the rims, however they are quite a bit wider than the stock tyres so the spare is a dubious fit. They also run very close to things in the wheel arch and tend to rub the splash guards at full lock as well as rub the indicator lamp wires at the front if they are not tied out of the way. I had to modify the RH rear arch shape to prevent fouling of the rearmost lower point too as the rolled edge was not very well done from the factory. The tyres drive very nicely but have a faint whirring noise at highway speed. Ground clearance is definitely improved but mostly they fill up the wheel arches and look great, particularly on painted 48 spokes. Andy. On 1/7/17, Neil McDonald wrote: > Discovered this very interesting picture from the Longstone Tyres (UK) > website illustrating different Healey tyre options. The middle tyre with a > white label is the original 590/15 and the two on the right hand end are the > very common 165/15 radial replacements which Moss Motors recommends and are > as currently fitted to my car. > > Longstone recommends the Michelin XAS 180HR15 pictured on the immediate > right of the 590/15 - apparently for all big Healeys. Note the different > diameters! > > In view of ground clearance concerns it seems to me that 180/15 is the way > to go. However checking these same tyres on the Coker (US) website, they say > that they are intended for 5-6.5 inch rims..... but the BN6 only has 4" > rims! > > Should I be concerned at this apparent Longstone-Coker-Moss conflict? > > From austinhealeyslist at gmail.com Fri Jan 6 13:05:59 2017 From: austinhealeyslist at gmail.com (Austin Healeys List) Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2017 09:05:59 +1300 Subject: [Healeys] BN4 reflector rubbers References: <1483726402369.71118.9b03844164d7b9a2ff6e52d4d25ff52a4f366056@spica.telekom.de> Thanks Josef, Yesterday was a good day! I now have two original rubbers in near perfect condition and two correct Lucas Reflex reflector discs as mine were off a bicycle. The little paper note hidden in behind one of the reflectors made my day. Andy. On 1/7/17, josef-eckert at t-online.de wrote: > Andy, > You can get the complette reflector new from SC Parts UK: > > http://www.scparts.co.uk/sc_en/british-cars/austin-healey/austin-healey-bn1-to-bj8-1952-1968/electrics-ignition-system-heating-and-dashboard/lamps.html#84 > > see 84, PartNo 206240 > > Josef Eckert > Konigswinter/Germany > > > > -----Original-Nachricht----- > Betreff: [Healeys] BN4 reflector rubbers > Datum: 2017-01-06T05:01:21+0100 > Von: "Austin Healeys List" > An: "Healeys at autox.team.net" > > My BN4 reflector rubbers are very tired and likely to fall out, but it > seems nobody has reproduced them yet. Apart from fitting the later > style flat ones, what options are there for keeping the 'bullets'? If > nothing is available then I'll try casting them in polyurethane > rubber. > > In anticipation of nothing available, I made a quick model of the > rubber but it is so perished much of the detail is lost. Would anyone > have an original rubber in reasonable condition to get some dimensions > off or a pic of please? > > Andy. > ? > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: DSC09569.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 390494 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rkeysor at bellsouth.net Fri Jan 6 14:09:23 2017 From: rkeysor at bellsouth.net (rkeysor) Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2017 21:09:23 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Scissor jack References: <7E6379C4-B448-486D-97B8-F5852C509CC9@comcast.net> Just got the geared scissor jack. ?Frankly, I don't think it is much easier to crank than the typical jack. On Friday, January 6, 2017 2:42 PM, i erbs wrote: Thanks,?I bought scissor jack with a gear reduction option for fewer turns.?I need to make a handle extension.I have never run with both a jack and a spare tire in over 40 years of driving. No what I am older and wiser, I thought it might be a good idea :) Ira ErbsPortland,OR? ? ? _______ ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?_______ ? ?? (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) ? ? ? ?? (_________________________)? ? ? ? ? BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Fri, Jan 6, 2017 at 8:52 AM, Michael Oritt wrote: With 180-15R Michelin XAS tires inflated to 30 psi my 100's ground clearance at front and rear frame cross-members is 7.5" which decreases to 5.5" when all air is let out of a tire. This allows me to use a small 2-ton CarQuest scissor jack which carries an MVP label and is similar to this one: http://www.toolpan.com/ATD- Tools-7462--2-Ton-Scissor- Jack_p_1290.html?gdffi= d5de8d975e554fe98677ff5f83efd4 39&gd It collapses down to 4.5" and stows nicely in the compartment to the left of the spare. ? Best--Michael Oritt On Mon, Dec 26, 2016 at 12:55 PM, ROBERT A WESTCOTT <55healey at comcast.net> wrote: Remamber folks,? The scissor jack needs to be placed under the side of a car when jacking. Placing one under the rear crossmember without chocking the front wheels will allow the car to roll forward off the jack allowing it to tip forward so the scissor jack screw can punch a 1/2? hole in the rear skirt panel under the bumper.? Don?t ask me how I know. By the way, if the car happened to roll backward, the other side of the screw would have punched that 1/2? hole in the almost full gas tank dumping all that gas on the shop floor. I think we could write a book on all the really bad things that can and have happened while jacking up our cars. Rob > On Dec 25, 2016, at 2:34 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > Don't think HF has what you want.? Don't think you can beat this (NFI): > > http://www.ebay.com/itm/Liftma ster-1-5-Ton-3300lb-Scissor- Jack-with-Force-Reduction- Drive/322368428129?_trksid= p2141725.c100338.m3726&_ trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3 DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D2015 0313114020%26meid%3D4095f99da4 1c468ca6e7d7567b28a111%26pid% 3D100338%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D30% 26sd%3D112156936669 > > I went looking for these a couple years ago and barely found one; looks like someone has gotten back in the business.? Only thing that I don't like is the handle comes out of the slot too easily. > > > On 12/25/2016 2:30 PM, i erbs wrote: >> I think I used to have one as I found the handle for one a few months ago :) >> I think the scissor jack makes more sense. I'll head to harbor freight? tomorrow. >> Funny how I never had a spare in the car during the 10 year use as a daily driver. But can't stop thinking about how important it is now. I have disk wheel and disk brakes, so I wont be able to borrow a spare form anyone in the club when we tour... >> >> Ira Erbs >> Portland,OR >>? ? ? ?_______? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? _______ >>? ? ? (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) >>? ? ? ? ? (_________________________) >>? ? ? ? ? ?BT7 engine and disk brakes ______________________________ _________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/ listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Jan 6 14:26:05 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2017 13:26:05 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Scissor jack References: <7E6379C4-B448-486D-97B8-F5852C509CC9@comcast.net> <426797236.2102518.1483736963644@mail.yahoo.com> hopefully I will never need to find out :) Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Fri, Jan 6, 2017 at 1:09 PM, rkeysor wrote: > Just got the geared scissor jack. Frankly, I don't think it is much > easier to crank than the typical jack. > > > On Friday, January 6, 2017 2:42 PM, i erbs wrote: > > > Thanks, > I bought scissor jack with a gear reduction option for fewer turns. > I need to make a handle extension. > I have never run with both a jack and a spare tire in over 40 years of > driving. No what I am older and wiser, I thought it might be a good idea :) > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > On Fri, Jan 6, 2017 at 8:52 AM, Michael Oritt > wrote: > > With 180-15R Michelin XAS tires inflated to 30 psi my 100's ground > clearance at front and rear frame cross-members is 7.5" which decreases to > 5.5" when all air is let out of a tire. > > This allows me to use a small 2-ton CarQuest scissor jack which carries > an MVP label and is similar to this one: > > http://www.toolpan.com/ATD- Tools-7462--2-Ton-Scissor- > Jack_p_1290.html?gdffi= d5de8d975e554fe98677ff5f83efd4 39&gd > > It collapses down to 4.5" and stows nicely in the compartment to the left > of the spare. > > Best--Michael Oritt > > > On Mon, Dec 26, 2016 at 12:55 PM, ROBERT A WESTCOTT <55healey at comcast.net> > wrote: > > Remamber folks, The scissor jack needs to be placed under the side of a > car when jacking. > > Placing one under the rear crossmember without chocking the front wheels > will allow the car to roll forward off the jack allowing it to tip forward > so the scissor jack screw > can punch a 1/2? hole in the rear skirt panel under the bumper. Don?t ask > me how I know. > > By the way, if the car happened to roll backward, the other side of the > screw would have punched that 1/2? hole in the almost full gas tank dumping > all that gas on the shop floor. > > I think we could write a book on all the really bad things that can and > have happened while jacking up our cars. > > Rob > > > On Dec 25, 2016, at 2:34 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > > > Don't think HF has what you want. Don't think you can beat this (NFI): > > > > http://www.ebay.com/itm/Liftma ster-1-5-Ton-3300lb-Scissor- > Jack-with-Force-Reduction- Drive/322368428129?_trksid= > p2141725.c100338.m3726&_ trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3 > DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D2015 0313114020%26meid%3D4095f99da4 > 1c468ca6e7d7567b28a111%26pid% 3D100338%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D30% > 26sd%3D112156936669 > > > > I went looking for these a couple years ago and barely found one; looks > like someone has gotten back in the business. Only thing that I don't like > is the handle comes out of the slot too easily. > > > > > > On 12/25/2016 2:30 PM, i erbs wrote: > >> I think I used to have one as I found the handle for one a few months > ago :) > >> I think the scissor jack makes more sense. I'll head to harbor freight > tomorrow. > >> Funny how I never had a spare in the car during the 10 year use as a > daily driver. But can't stop thinking about how important it is now. I have > disk wheel and disk brakes, so I wont be able to borrow a spare form anyone > in the club when we tour... > >> > >> Ira Erbs > >> Portland,OR > >> _______ _______ > >> (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > >> (_________________________) > >> BT7 engine and disk brakes > > ______________________________ _________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.htm l > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/ listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/michael.oritt@ gmail.com > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rkeysor@ > bellsouth.net > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bluehealey at gmail.com Fri Jan 6 14:39:05 2017 From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Bluehealey) Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2017 21:39:05 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Body/Batch numbers Team. I have request of your global wisdom. A friend here in Hampshire, UK is restoring an imported BN4. It is a first time classic for him having spent a number of years building Caterham's and such like. The documentation with the car is enough to get it legitimately registered but he doesn't have the Body/Batch firewall tag and none of the docs carries the detail. What we have from Heritage etc. is: BN4 December 1958 Chassis Number = BN4L/74628 Body Number = 10079 Can anybody out there infer from this what the Batch number might have been? Many thanks. AlanB Bluehealey Alan - from my iPad -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From goldengt at cal.net Fri Jan 6 20:19:16 2017 From: goldengt at cal.net (goldengt at cal.net) Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2017 19:19:16 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] 100 stamped aluminium trim screws I am confused by the Roger Moment articles, Moss catalog, and BCS catalog on the proper screws for the aluminium sill and shut face plates for a BN2. Should it be #6 or #4 and should it be pan head, truss head, or pozidrive with integral flange?I did #4 truss head on my BJ8 which might be wrong.Thanks,Ken Freese -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey100m at me.com Sat Jan 7 00:49:23 2017 From: healey100m at me.com (Randy Hicks) Date: Sat, 07 Jan 2017 02:49:23 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100 stamped aluminium trim screws References: <488416443.3962672.1483759156719.JavaMail.zimbra@cal.net> Ken, might be what you are looking for from the 2017 Austin Healey Concours Guidelines released yesterday: "Door Seals and Alloy Trim Plates On BN1/2's, door seals consisted of one hard "Furflex"-covered rubber bulb on the forward door pillar edge with the tail of the furflex glued to the back edge of the inside kick panel, but as it reached the dashboard mounting flange, it was notched to skip over to the outboard edge of the flange where it was sandwiched between the windshield post bracket and the door pillar edge to continue to the top of the door pillar, with the top end hidden behind the scuttle seal assembly. A second strip of furflex was sandwiched between the door trim panel and door casing at the front of the door, and a third and fourth strip was fitted to the back edge of the door, one above and one below the door lock aperture. The lower edge of the door was sealed by a strip of quarter-round rubber along the outer lower edge of the door casing. Furflex generally matched the interior trim panel colour, though shades may have varied. On blue interiors, it was a light gray color. On BN1/2s and Longbridge-built BN4s, screws on the aluminum door shut facing have the same head as those used to attach the door trim panels (countersunk chromed #6 oval Phillips head sheet metal screws as opposed to the unique style used on the 6 cylinder cars). From the introduction of the Abingdon BN6 through possibly the end of BJ7 production, the shut facing was fastened with small, #4 truss-headed Phillips screws with very small cross-head screwdriver slots. Starting around 1963 or 1964 the screw head was changed from Phillips to Pozidriv. This type of head has been seen on an original BJ8 built in 1966. On late BJ8s some cars have been found with a "washer" molded into the screw head. It is suggested that you look at the predominant type of screw head on your car to try to determine which style was original. This will only work if you have good reason to suspect the trim screws are original, or mostly so. (See Photo ? Figure VI-2). On BN1/2s and Longbridge BN4 models the door shut plate has grained vinyl piping, which usually approximately matches the colour of the car exterior, separating it from the rear fender. On later 6-cylinder models the door shut plate has black, grained vinyl piping separating it from the rear fender. On the 4-cylinder cars, the door shut face piping simply tucks under the alloy trim plate as it reaches the top edge of the trim plate. " Randy Randy Hicks Austin Healey Concours Registry Committee AHCA 100 Registrar www.austinhealey100m.com > On Jan 6, 2017, at 10:19 PM, goldengt at cal.net wrote: > > I am confused by the Roger Moment articles, Moss catalog, and BCS catalog on the proper screws for the aluminium sill and shut face plates for a BN2. Should it be #6 or #4 and should it be pan head, truss head, or pozidrive with integral flange? > I did #4 truss head on my BJ8 which might be wrong. > Thanks, > Ken Freese > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m at me.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sat Jan 7 01:44:16 2017 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2017 03:44:16 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100 stamped aluminium trim screws References: <488416443.3962672.1483759156719.JavaMail.zimbra@cal.net> <360DBC02-743F-4FBF-ADF3-78E2602167DA@me.com> Hi Ken, Here is a photo of the screws used on a very original BN1 that I studied some time back. Details here . [image: Inline image 2] The screws were as described in the Concours Guidelines and mentioned by Randy " *countersunk chromed #6 oval Phillips head sheet metal screws".* Michael S BN1 #174 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 649762 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rkeysor at bellsouth.net Sat Jan 7 07:09:29 2017 From: rkeysor at bellsouth.net (rkeysor) Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2017 14:09:29 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Scissor jack References: <7E6379C4-B448-486D-97B8-F5852C509CC9@comcast.net> <426797236.2102518.1483736963644@mail.yahoo.com> Nope, haven't used my jack. ?I have put 80 or 90,000 miles on my '92 Porsche 968, and I have never had to change a tire at roadside using the aluminum scissor jack the came with that car. ?After the purchase of my Healey in January 2013, I drove to Jacksonville from Meadows of Dan, VA, sans jack, knockoff hammer and with a truly vintage Michelin X spare. ?I have yet to have a flat on this car. ?My big problem getting home was the Toyota five speed (the Healey gear box was riding in my friend's ?truck bed). ?Though I didn't know it, the large nylon (?) bushing in the top of the shift tower was totally absent. ?So when I went to take ?5th gear as I accelerated out onto the interstates, I kept getting third gear. ?And I made a lot of stops, as the fuel gauge showed empty when I probably had six gallons in the tank. ?When we overnighted in Orangeburg, SC, the car wouldn't start. ?Luckily ?a former MG owner happened by and suggested getting starting fluid, and we did that as soon as the first car parts store opened. Later found the jets and choke weren't functioning properly. Worst drive of my life! ?As for the scissors jack, I like to use it under the front suspension to take the wheel/etc. weight off the small rubber bumpers. ?Hard to get a floor jack in there. On Friday, January 6, 2017 4:26 PM, i erbs wrote: hopefully I will never need to find out :) Ira ErbsPortland,OR? ? ? _______ ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?_______ ? ?? (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) ? ? ? ?? (_________________________)? ? ? ? ? BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Fri, Jan 6, 2017 at 1:09 PM, rkeysor wrote: Just got the geared scissor jack. ?Frankly, I don't think it is much easier to crank than the typical jack. On Friday, January 6, 2017 2:42 PM, i erbs wrote: Thanks,?I bought scissor jack with a gear reduction option for fewer turns.?I need to make a handle extension.I have never run with both a jack and a spare tire in over 40 years of driving. No what I am older and wiser, I thought it might be a good idea :) Ira ErbsPortland,OR? ? ? _______ ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?_______ ? ?? (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) ? ? ? ?? (_________________________)? ? ? ? ? BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Fri, Jan 6, 2017 at 8:52 AM, Michael Oritt wrote: With 180-15R Michelin XAS tires inflated to 30 psi my 100's ground clearance at front and rear frame cross-members is 7.5" which decreases to 5.5" when all air is let out of a tire. This allows me to use a small 2-ton CarQuest scissor jack which carries an MVP label and is similar to this one: http://www.toolpan.com/ATD- Tools-7462--2-Ton-Scissor- Jack_p_1290.html?gdffi= d5de8d975e554fe98677ff5f83efd4 39&gd It collapses down to 4.5" and stows nicely in the compartment to the left of the spare. ? Best--Michael Oritt On Mon, Dec 26, 2016 at 12:55 PM, ROBERT A WESTCOTT <55healey at comcast.net> wrote: Remamber folks,? The scissor jack needs to be placed under the side of a car when jacking. Placing one under the rear crossmember without chocking the front wheels will allow the car to roll forward off the jack allowing it to tip forward so the scissor jack screw can punch a 1/2? hole in the rear skirt panel under the bumper.? Don?t ask me how I know. By the way, if the car happened to roll backward, the other side of the screw would have punched that 1/2? hole in the almost full gas tank dumping all that gas on the shop floor. I think we could write a book on all the really bad things that can and have happened while jacking up our cars. Rob > On Dec 25, 2016, at 2:34 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > Don't think HF has what you want.? Don't think you can beat this (NFI): > > http://www.ebay.com/itm/Liftma ster-1-5-Ton-3300lb-Scissor- Jack-with-Force-Reduction- Drive/322368428129?_trksid= p2141725.c100338.m3726&_ trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3 DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D2015 0313114020%26meid%3D4095f99da4 1c468ca6e7d7567b28a111%26pid% 3D100338%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D30% 26sd%3D112156936669 > > I went looking for these a couple years ago and barely found one; looks like someone has gotten back in the business.? Only thing that I don't like is the handle comes out of the slot too easily. > > > On 12/25/2016 2:30 PM, i erbs wrote: >> I think I used to have one as I found the handle for one a few months ago :) >> I think the scissor jack makes more sense. I'll head to harbor freight? tomorrow. >> Funny how I never had a spare in the car during the 10 year use as a daily driver. But can't stop thinking about how important it is now. I have disk wheel and disk brakes, so I wont be able to borrow a spare form anyone in the club when we tour... >> >> Ira Erbs >> Portland,OR >>? ? ? ?_______? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? _______ >>? ? ? (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) >>? ? ? ? ? (_________________________) >>? ? ? ? ? ?BT7 engine and disk brakes ______________________________ _________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/ listinfo/healeys ______________________________ _________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/ listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey100m at me.com Sat Jan 7 08:19:43 2017 From: healey100m at me.com (Randy Hicks) Date: Sat, 07 Jan 2017 10:19:43 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Concours Guidelines References: <88654227.106548.1483783106369.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <88654227.106548.1483783106369@mail.yahoo.com> Hi Mike, if you contact Mike Osipik (below) he will give you a couple options on receiving a copy of the Guidelines package. He can download it through DropBox (immediately available to you) or he can send you a CD. DropBox is very easy. (816) 729-9119 Home Randy Randy Hicks Austin Healey Concours Registry Committee AHCA 100 Registrar ahca100registrar at gmail.com www.austinhealey100m.com > On Jan 7, 2017, at 4:58 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: > > Randy, > How do I get a copy of the guidelines? > Mike MacLean > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Sat Jan 7 10:28:54 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2017 12:28:54 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Body/Batch numbers References: <423E689C-8409-43D1-BA98-75670845D9C8@gmail.com> Alan, I sent your email to Mell Ward who is the 6 cylinder registrar in the UK. Her reply included: chassis batch body 74612 3007 10181 74620 3007 10088 74628 ? 10079 She would assume that chassis 74628 is batch 3007. Mell suggested that your friend to contact her if he'd like any additional help. Her email address is mellward at icloud.com. I also sent the email to Gary Feldman, the AHCA 100-6 registrar. Will let you know if Gary has any additional info. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 01/06/2017 04:39 PM, Bluehealey wrote: > Team. > I have request of your global wisdom. A friend here in Hampshire, UK is > restoring an imported BN4. It is a first time classic for him having > spent a number of years building Caterham's and such like. > The documentation with the car is enough to get it legitimately > registered but he doesn't have the Body/Batch firewall tag and none of > the docs carries the detail. What we have from Heritage etc. is: > > BN4 December 1958 > > Chassis Number = BN4L/74628 > > Body Number = 10079 > > > Can anybody out there infer from this what the Batch number might have been? > > Many thanks. > > AlanB > > Bluehealey > > > Alan - from my iPad > From cnaarndt at gmail.com Sat Jan 7 11:34:54 2017 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt) Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2017 10:34:54 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Body/Batch numbers References: <423E689C-8409-43D1-BA98-75670845D9C8@gmail.com> Alan, I don't have that specific information, but here are some photos of my neighbors very early all numbers matching BN4 with the batch body number tag. At least a place to start. Curt [image: Inline image 1] [image: Inline image 2] On Fri, Jan 6, 2017 at 1:39 PM, Bluehealey wrote: > Team. > I have request of your global wisdom. A friend here in Hampshire, UK is > restoring an imported BN4. It is a first time classic for him having spent > a number of years building Caterham's and such like. > The documentation with the car is enough to get it legitimately registered > but he doesn't have the Body/Batch firewall tag and none of the docs > carries the detail. What we have from Heritage etc. is: > > BN4 December 1958 > > Chassis Number = BN4L/74628 > > Body Number = 10079 > > > Can anybody out there infer from this what the Batch number might have > been? > > Many thanks. > > AlanB > > Bluehealey > > Alan - from my iPad > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 1981259 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 4070343 bytes Desc: not available URL: From cnaarndt at gmail.com Sat Jan 7 11:42:22 2017 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt) Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2017 10:42:22 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] 100 stamped aluminium trim screws References: <488416443.3962672.1483759156719.JavaMail.zimbra@cal.net> <360DBC02-743F-4FBF-ADF3-78E2602167DA@me.com> Gentlemen, Also notice in Michael's photo the very "square" + profile of the Phillips head inset. This was unique to BN1's and the style changed slightly later on with the BN2s and subsequent cars, and is more like what you can purchase new from various vendors. This is what makes restoring a BN1 a bit of a challenge with regard to fasteners. Cheers, Curt Arndt AH Concours Registry Chairman On Sat, Jan 7, 2017 at 12:44 AM, Michael Salter wrote: > Hi Ken, > Here is a photo of the screws used on a very original BN1 that I studied > some time back. Details here . > > > [image: Inline image 2] > > The screws were as described in the Concours Guidelines and mentioned by > Randy " > > *countersunk chromed #6 oval Phillips head sheet metal screws".* > Michael S > BN1 #174 > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 649762 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bluehealey at gmail.com Sat Jan 7 11:44:05 2017 From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Bluehealey) Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2017 18:44:05 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Body/Batch numbers References: <423E689C-8409-43D1-BA98-75670845D9C8@gmail.com> <58712556.3040409@earthlink.net> That's a big help Bob. I never thought about Mell perhaps having details. The fact the car came back from the States made me assume that the knowledge would be your side of the pond. I'll follow that up. Best regards. Alan - from my iPad > On 7 Jan 2017, at 17:28, Bob Haskell wrote: > > Alan, > > I sent your email to Mell Ward who is the 6 cylinder registrar in the UK. Her reply included: > > chassis batch body > 74612 3007 10181 > 74620 3007 10088 > > 74628 ? 10079 > > She would assume that chassis 74628 is batch 3007. Mell suggested that your friend to contact her if he'd like any additional help. Her email address is mellward at icloud.com. > > I also sent the email to Gary Feldman, the AHCA 100-6 registrar. Will let you know if Gary has any additional info. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > >> On 01/06/2017 04:39 PM, Bluehealey wrote: >> Team. >> I have request of your global wisdom. A friend here in Hampshire, UK is >> restoring an imported BN4. It is a first time classic for him having >> spent a number of years building Caterham's and such like. >> The documentation with the car is enough to get it legitimately >> registered but he doesn't have the Body/Batch firewall tag and none of >> the docs carries the detail. What we have from Heritage etc. is: >> >> BN4 December 1958 >> >> Chassis Number = BN4L/74628 >> >> Body Number = 10079 >> >> >> Can anybody out there infer from this what the Batch number might have been? >> >> Many thanks. >> >> AlanB >> >> Bluehealey >> >> >> Alan - from my iPad >> From jc9821 at msn.com Sat Jan 7 12:04:51 2017 From: jc9821 at msn.com (John and Judy Carter) Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2017 19:04:51 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 8 References: My Harbor Freight scissors jack collapsed on the first use. Piece of junk. ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of healeys-request at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, January 6, 2017 2:00 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 8 Send Healeys mailing list submissions to healeys at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net autox.team.net To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to healeys-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at healeys-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." Today's Topics: 1. BN4 reflector rubbers (Austin Healeys List) 2. BN6 Tyres (Neil McDonald) 3. Re: BN4 reflector rubbers (David Nock BCS) 4. Re: Scissor jack (Michael Oritt) 5. Re: Scissor jack (i erbs) 6. Re: BN4 reflector rubbers (josef-eckert at t-online.de) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2017 14:29:02 +1300 From: Austin Healeys List To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BN4 reflector rubbers Message-ID: My BN4 reflector rubbers are very tired and likely to fall out, but it seems nobody has reproduced them yet. Apart from fitting the later style flat ones, what options are there for keeping the 'bullets'? If nothing is available then I'll try casting them in polyurethane rubber. In anticipation of nothing available, I made a quick model of the rubber but it is so perished much of the detail is lost. Would anyone have an original rubber in reasonable condition to get some dimensions off or a pic of please? Andy. -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: reflector.png Type: image/png Size: 184361 bytes Desc: not available URL: ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2017 12:53:54 +0000 From: Neil McDonald To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Tyres Discovered this very interesting picture from the Longstone Tyres (UK) website illustrating different Healey tyre options. The middle tyre with a white label is the original 590/15 and the two on the right hand end are the very common 165/15 radial replacements which Moss Motors recommends and are as currently fitted to my car. Longstone recommends the Michelin XAS 180HR15 pictured on the immediate right of the 590/15 - apparently for all big Healeys. Note the different diameters! In view of ground clearance concerns it seems to me that 180/15 is the way to go. However checking these same tyres on the Coker (US) website, they say that they are intended for 5-6.5 inch rims..... but the BN6 only has 4" rims! Should I be concerned at this apparent Longstone-Coker-Moss conflict? -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0427.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 25328 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- _____________________ Neil McDonald Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2017 08:37:26 -0800 From: "David Nock BCS" To: "Austin Healeys List" , Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN4 reflector rubbers reply-type=original Get the later style reflectors, pull them apart to install and then install the cones. If you need the cones we have them available. David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com British Car Specialists - Stockton CA - Land Rover ... www.britishcarspecialists.com Specializes in providing restoration services and selling parts. Includes information about service, parts, and restoration procedures. -----Original Message----- From: Austin Healeys List Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2017 5:29 PM To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BN4 reflector rubbers My BN4 reflector rubbers are very tired and likely to fall out, but it seems nobody has reproduced them yet. Apart from fitting the later style flat ones, what options are there for keeping the 'bullets'? If nothing is available then I'll try casting them in polyurethane rubber. In anticipation of nothing available, I made a quick model of the rubber but it is so perished much of the detail is lost. Would anyone have an original rubber in reasonable condition to get some dimensions off or a pic of please? Andy. _______________________________________________ www.team.net www.team.net The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2017 11:52:28 -0500 From: Michael Oritt To: ROBERT A WESTCOTT <55healey at comcast.net> Cc: Ahealey help , i erbs Subject: Re: [Healeys] Scissor jack Message-ID: With 180-15R Michelin XAS tires inflated to 30 psi my 100's ground clearance at front and rear frame cross-members is 7.5" which decreases to 5.5" when all air is let out of a tire. This allows me to use a small 2-ton CarQuest scissor jack which carries an MVP label and is similar to this one: http://www.toolpan.com/ATD-Tools-7462--2-Ton-Scissor-Jack_p_1290.html?gdffi=d5de8d975e554fe98677ff5f83efd439&gd It collapses down to 4.5" and stows nicely in the compartment to the left of the spare. Best--Michael Oritt On Mon, Dec 26, 2016 at 12:55 PM, ROBERT A WESTCOTT <55healey at comcast.net> wrote: > Remamber folks, The scissor jack needs to be placed under the side of a > car when jacking. > > Placing one under the rear crossmember without chocking the front wheels > will allow the car to roll forward off the jack allowing it to tip forward > so the scissor jack screw > can punch a 1/2? hole in the rear skirt panel under the bumper. Don?t ask > me how I know. > > By the way, if the car happened to roll backward, the other side of the > screw would have punched that 1/2? hole in the almost full gas tank dumping > all that gas on the shop floor. > > I think we could write a book on all the really bad things that can and > have happened while jacking up our cars. > > Rob > > > On Dec 25, 2016, at 2:34 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > > > Don't think HF has what you want. Don't think you can beat this (NFI): > > > > http://www.ebay.com/itm/Liftmaster-1-5-Ton-3300lb- > Scissor-Jack-with-Force-Reduction-Drive/322368428129?_ > trksid=p2141725.c100338.m3726&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo% > 3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20150313114020%26meid% > 3D4095f99da41c468ca6e7d7567b28a111%26pid%3D100338%26rk%3D1% > 26rkt%3D30%26sd%3D112156936669 > > > > I went looking for these a couple years ago and barely found one; looks > like someone has gotten back in the business. Only thing that I don't like > is the handle comes out of the slot too easily. > > > > > > On 12/25/2016 2:30 PM, i erbs wrote: > >> I think I used to have one as I found the handle for one a few months > ago :) > >> I think the scissor jack makes more sense. I'll head to harbor freight > tomorrow. > >> Funny how I never had a spare in the car during the 10 year use as a > daily driver. But can't stop thinking about how important it is now. I have > disk wheel and disk brakes, so I wont be able to borrow a spare form anyone > in the club when we tour... > >> > >> Ira Erbs > >> Portland,OR > >> _______ _______ > >> (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > >> (_________________________) > >> BT7 engine and disk brakes > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2017 09:55:19 -0800 From: i erbs To: Michael Oritt Cc: Ahealey help Subject: Re: [Healeys] Scissor jack Message-ID: Thanks, I bought scissor jack with a gear reduction option for fewer turns. I need to make a handle extension. I have never run with both a jack and a spare tire in over 40 years of driving. No what I am older and wiser, I thought it might be a good idea :) Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Fri, Jan 6, 2017 at 8:52 AM, Michael Oritt wrote: > With 180-15R Michelin XAS tires inflated to 30 psi my 100's ground > clearance at front and rear frame cross-members is 7.5" which decreases to > 5.5" when all air is let out of a tire. > > This allows me to use a small 2-ton CarQuest scissor jack which carries > an MVP label and is similar to this one: > > http://www.toolpan.com/ATD-Tools-7462--2-Ton-Scissor- > Jack_p_1290.html?gdffi=d5de8d975e554fe98677ff5f83efd439&gd > > It collapses down to 4.5" and stows nicely in the compartment to the left > of the spare. > > Best--Michael Oritt > > > On Mon, Dec 26, 2016 at 12:55 PM, ROBERT A WESTCOTT <55healey at comcast.net> > wrote: > >> Remamber folks, The scissor jack needs to be placed under the side of a >> car when jacking. >> >> Placing one under the rear crossmember without chocking the front wheels >> will allow the car to roll forward off the jack allowing it to tip forward >> so the scissor jack screw >> can punch a 1/2? hole in the rear skirt panel under the bumper. Don?t >> ask me how I know. >> >> By the way, if the car happened to roll backward, the other side of the >> screw would have punched that 1/2? hole in the almost full gas tank dumping >> all that gas on the shop floor. >> >> I think we could write a book on all the really bad things that can and >> have happened while jacking up our cars. >> >> Rob >> >> > On Dec 25, 2016, at 2:34 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: >> > >> > Don't think HF has what you want. Don't think you can beat this (NFI): >> > >> > http://www.ebay.com/itm/Liftmaster-1-5-Ton-3300lb-Scissor- >> Jack-with-Force-Reduction-Drive/322368428129?_trksid= >> p2141725.c100338.m3726&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3 >> DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20150313114020%26meid%3D4095f99da4 >> 1c468ca6e7d7567b28a111%26pid%3D100338%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D30% >> 26sd%3D112156936669 >> > >> > I went looking for these a couple years ago and barely found one; looks >> like someone has gotten back in the business. Only thing that I don't like >> is the handle comes out of the slot too easily. >> > >> > >> > On 12/25/2016 2:30 PM, i erbs wrote: >> >> I think I used to have one as I found the handle for one a few months >> ago :) >> >> I think the scissor jack makes more sense. I'll head to harbor >> freight tomorrow. >> >> Funny how I never had a spare in the car during the 10 year use as a >> daily driver. But can't stop thinking about how important it is now. I have >> disk wheel and disk brakes, so I wont be able to borrow a spare form anyone >> in the club when we tour... >> >> >> >> Ira Erbs >> >> Portland,OR >> >> _______ _______ >> >> (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) >> >> (_________________________) >> >> BT7 engine and disk brakes >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com >> >> > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2017 19:13:22 +0100 (MET) From: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" To: Austin Healeys List , "Healeys, Forum" Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN4 reflector rubbers Message-ID: <1483726402369.71118.9b03844164d7b9a2ff6e52d4d25ff52a4f366056 at spica.telekom.de> Andy, You can get the complette reflector new from SC Parts UK: http://www.scparts.co.uk/sc_en/british-cars/austin-healey/austin-healey-bn1-to-bj8-1952-1968/electrics-ignition-system-heating-and-dashboard/lamps.html#84 see 84, PartNo 206240 Josef Eckert Konigswinter/Germany -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: [Healeys] BN4 reflector rubbers Datum: 2017-01-06T05:01:21+0100 Von: "Austin Healeys List" An: "Healeys at autox.team.net" My BN4 reflector rubbers are very tired and likely to fall out, but it seems nobody has reproduced them yet. Apart from fitting the later style flat ones, what options are there for keeping the 'bullets'? If nothing is available then I'll try casting them in polyurethane rubber. In anticipation of nothing available, I made a quick model of the rubber but it is so perished much of the detail is lost. Would anyone have an original rubber in reasonable condition to get some dimensions off or a pic of please? Andy. ? ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ Healeys mailing list Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys ------------------------------ End of Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 8 ************************************** [http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20170106/f4ca738e/attachment-0001.png] -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From 050.rpl at gmail.com Sat Jan 7 12:25:36 2017 From: 050.rpl at gmail.com (R. Lindsay) Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2017 14:25:36 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Washer Reservoir Bracket Color What is the proper color for the washer reservoir bracket on a 67 BJ8? How many ?Tudor? labels are attached to the reservoir? Is there a specific height on the reservoir? Many thanks! Price Lindsay 67 BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From roggrace at telus.net Sat Jan 7 19:32:52 2017 From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace) Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2017 18:32:52 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive References: <024d01d266a1$bbe74770$33b5d650$@rr.com> OosOcqMoHaZXmOosPcOLnf I currently have my BJ8 OD in a ?a thousand pieces? ! Prior to stripping, I too built up a similar test rig but 240V variable speed with 3 ph motor as well. See pix. This rig was invaluable to help diagnose: - low pressure that turned out to be a bad accumulator and piston rings; replacing with modern O ring style and new accumulator spring; used compressed air to extract the accumulator. - confirm that front oil leak was GB front seal and not rear main ... phew! - that brake ring flange was leaking oil; hopefully now fixed with Locktite 518; also leaks at adaptor flanges - new gaskets plus Hylomar. - bad main clutch bearing; unit was noisy in direct 4th gear but much quieter in OD; this bearing only works in direct drive and not in OD; it was shot and interestingly could only be heard on test rig and not when in car with road and engine noise. Plan to run the transmission for several hours prior to reinstalling in car to get up to temp and check the leak enemy. Thinking ahead, was looking and making one of Michael S?s famous oil pump release tools; have done a few dry runs using the wire method and wonder why MS chose the wire tool over holding the spring with some thin wire as others have done ? rg From: Michael Salter Sent: Wednesday, January 4, 2017 8:47 AM To: BJ8Healeys Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive Hi Steve, Best wishes for a Happy and Prosperous New Year. Yep those symptoms mostly make sense. "The first time it would engage when cold, but not when hot. The accumulator walls were severely gouged, probably from too much debris in the oil from not having been changed frequently enough before I got the car. I found no other problems. I concluded that the massive leakage prevented the accumulator piston from moving back far enough against the spring to direct the oil to the metering pin." In this case unfortunately you don't mention the pre-repair test pressures but they would have been quite low, probably 300 odd cold and below 250 hot, meaning that there was not enough pressure to move the clutch against the springs. I would imagine that as your drove and the oil heated up the unit would have started to slip and then dropped out of overdrive altogether. The second time, the overdrive was slow to engage, felt like it was slipping, and would make a whirring noise as it tried to do so. I put a gauge on the O/D and went for a drive. I was reading 350 psi before the O/D switch was flipped, dropping to 100 psi at it tried to engage and back up to 350 - 365 psi after engagement. I found a broken accumulator piston ring and a loose ring in the bottom of the accumulator bore. After correcting that (and a broken thrust washer behind the planetaries), I read 450 psi before flipping the O/D switch and 250 psi as it engaged. I neglected to record the recovery pressure. This was done on a test rig and I did not repeat the test on the road since the O/D worked perfectly after reinstallation in the car. In this case the pressure during engagement is a little low but that is, as you found, probably due to damage in the accumulator. I'm surprised to hear that it slipped with a 350 -360 engaged pressure but that may have had something to do with the broken thrust preventing full travel of the clutch member...not sure about that one.. I have experienced that whirring noise on some units as well I suspect it is the unidirectional clutch slipping.. I envy your test rig...I always intended to build one but I never got a round tuit... M On Wed, Jan 4, 2017 at 10:46 AM, BJ8Healeys wrote: Mike, what I mentioned to Neil is that both times I have had problems with my overdrive failing to engage, or engaging sluggishly, the problem was the accumulator. The first time it would engage when cold, but not when hot. The accumulator walls were severely gouged, probably from too much debris in the oil from not having been changed frequently enough before I got the car. I found no other problems. I concluded that the massive leakage prevented the accumulator piston from moving back far enough against the spring to direct the oil to the metering pin. The second time, the overdrive was slow to engage, felt like it was slipping, and would make a whirring noise as it tried to do so. I put a gauge on the O/D and went for a drive. I was reading 350 psi before the O/D switch was flipped, dropping to 100 psi at it tried to engage and back up to 350 - 365 psi after engagement. I found a broken accumulator piston ring and a loose ring in the bottom of the accumulator bore. After correcting that (and a broken thrust washer behind the planetaries), I read 450 psi before flipping the O/D switch and 250 psi as it engaged. I neglected to record the recovery pressure. This was done on a test rig and I did not repeat the test on the road since the O/D worked perfectly after reinstallation in the car. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Salter Sent: Wednesday, January 04, 2017 9:53 AM To: Neil McDonald Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive Hi again Neil, With all due respects to Steve I would not suspect the accumulator because it is in the hydraulic circuit ahead of the operating valve. If the accumulator was leaking badly enough to prevent the overdrive from engaging you would never see 390 p.s.i. if you are testing at the operating valve plug with the ball and spring in position. Although the specified pressure for our units is 470 - 490 p.s.i. I have never seen one achieve 490 p.s.i. and have found units that operated quite satisfactorily with pressures as low as 300 p.s.i. hot. Someone suggested running the car on stands and manually lifting the valve setting lever. That is how I test for correct operation BUT PLEASE be ware of that driveshaft spinning next to your right hip. Getting yourself tangled up in that will ruin your day. Michael S BN1 #174 On Wed, Jan 4, 2017 at 6:05 AM, Neil McDonald wrote: Yesterday I wrote "I have concluded that the most likely cause of my problems are low OD fluid levels and/or inadequate opening of the actuating valve. Both I can readily deal with." In off line discussions with Steve Byers I have added a third and ominous possibility, a defective accumulator. The good hydraulic pressure already confirmed only indicates that the pump is OK because testing was not done while trying to engage the OD. My understanding is that OD engagement is the accumulator's function and the pump's role is to pressurise the accumulator for this task before OD engagement. A definitive test of accumulator condition seems to be how well it holds pressure after the engine is switched off! _____________________ Neil McDonald Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com -- If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2016.0.7996 / Virus Database: 4749/13725 - Release Date: 01/07/17 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20161117_130718.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 227263 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20161117_130649.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 242176 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healey100m at me.com Sat Jan 7 19:37:49 2017 From: healey100m at me.com (Randy Hicks) Date: Sat, 07 Jan 2017 21:37:49 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Washer Reservoir Bracket Color References: <43CEEA27-6E42-420B-80D9-C1000116A0F4@gmail.com> Price, I?m promoting the Austin Healey 2017 Concours Guidelines today! ? See if this helps: Windshield Washer Bottle 100 ? Had no windshield washer as standard fitting though it was available as an accessory on late BN1s and all BN2s. 100 Six, 3000 Location: through the BJ7, the windshield washer bottle is mounted into the package tray inside the interior. These bottles and mountings are described in the interior section. On BJ8s, with the revision of the interior to incorporate the walnut fascia and glove box, the bottle holding windshield washer liquid was moved to the engine compartment. On these cars, the bottle is made of white plastic with a plastic screw top. Bottle: Longbridge BN4's used a Trafalgar glass bottle (17H579) (see Photos ? Figure III-8 a- d); a Tudor plastic bottle (37H9798) was introduced at Abingdon sometime prior to BN4 C. 68960 (this would have been before BN4 production was temporarily halted in spring1958). The Glass bottle (17H579) was also used on early BN6s up through C. 1182 (built in May ?58, according to Clausager). The BN4 Service Parts List shows another 1 1?2? neck diameter container (37H9763) followed by a 2 3/16? diameter neck one (37H9729) introduced when BN4 production resumed at C. 68960 (in Sept. 1958). This same wide-mouth bottle (37H9729) is also listed in the BN6 Service Parts List as being introduced at BN6/1183, which would have been built well before BN4 C. 68960, so it is not clear exactly what the differences between the first two plastic BN4 bottles was, and when they were used. 25 On original BJ7s a metal squirrel cage has been found. On BJ8s, in 1964 and also later, white plastic squirrel cages have been found. A plastic bottle was used on non-BN4 six cylinder cars. 3000?s On Phase I BJ8s the bottle is plain, with no logo/markings, and sits in a metal support frame painted black. Cast into the bottom of the plastic bottle is the location of the ?Tudor? company and other information. On Phase II BJ8s there is a large trademark screened onto the side of the bottle, consisting of the word "Tudor" reversed out in white on a distinctive bright blue background. (The Tudor trademark on these bottles definitely was not a separate decal.) The screened logo color may vary a bit between cars as a result of aging. On Phase II cars, the metal frame is a slightly different shape and is painted a shade of blue which was a bit lighter than the Tudor trademark. There also was an evolution of bottle cap and outlet shapes (see Figure III-7a-e for examples and detailed descriptions). The 2017 Concours Guidelines are an incredible series of documents detailing how Big Healeys (and Sprites - separate document) were originally put together. if you contact Mike Osipik (below) he will give you a couple options on receiving a copy of the Guidelines package. He can download it through DropBox (immediately available to you) or he can send you a CD. DropBox is very easy. (816) 729-9119 Home Randy Randy Hicks Austin Healey Concours Registry Committee AHCA 100 Registrar ahca100registrar at gmail.com www.austinhealey100m.com > On Jan 7, 2017, at 2:25 PM, R. Lindsay <050.rpl at gmail.com> wrote: > > What is the proper color for the washer reservoir bracket on a 67 BJ8? How many ?Tudor? labels are attached to the reservoir? Is there a specific height on the reservoir? > > Many thanks! > > Price Lindsay > 67 BJ8 > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m at me.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cnaarndt at gmail.com Sat Jan 7 19:53:51 2017 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt) Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2017 18:53:51 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Washer Reservoir Bracket Color References: <43CEEA27-6E42-420B-80D9-C1000116A0F4@gmail.com> Price, The 2017 Concours Guidelines are just now available. Great set of color photos in the photo section of exactly what you need... Blue, three and ? Contact Mike Osipik for a copy. mikeosipik at gmail.com (816) 729-9119 Home Cheers, Curt On Sat, Jan 7, 2017 at 11:25 AM, R. Lindsay <050.rpl at gmail.com> wrote: > What is the proper color for the washer reservoir bracket on a 67 BJ8? > How many ?Tudor? labels are attached to the reservoir? Is there a specific > height on the reservoir? > > Many thanks! > > Price Lindsay > 67 BJ8 > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: AHConcoursOrderFormJan2017.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 130165 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sun Jan 8 11:34:31 2017 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sun, 8 Jan 2017 13:34:31 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive References: <024d01d266a1$bbe74770$33b5d650$@rr.com> <323E6DFB61EB4CDFA59567584C4DA877@WINDOWST93OFP9> Hi Roger, I developed the "special tool" after becoming totally frustrated with the thin wire method that I could never get to work reliably. It is a long time since I tackled the job that way but as I recall it is necessary to remove the wire before the overdrive is fully mated to the gearbox but do it too early and the pump plunger slips off the cam and too late and the wire get jammed. The "special tool" stays in place until the overdrive unit is tightened right up. The big problem with the "special tool" is where to keep between gearbox jobs so I can find it next time!!! Michael S BN1 #174 On Sat, Jan 7, 2017 at 9:32 PM, Roger Grace wrote: > I currently have my BJ8 OD in a ?a thousand pieces? ! > Prior to stripping, I too built up a similar test rig but 240V variable > speed with 3 ph motor as well. See pix. > > This rig was invaluable to help diagnose: > - low pressure that turned out to be a bad accumulator and piston > rings; replacing with modern O ring style and new accumulator spring; used > compressed air to extract the accumulator. > - confirm that front oil leak was GB front seal and not rear main ... > phew! > - that brake ring flange was leaking oil; hopefully now fixed with > Locktite 518; also leaks at adaptor flanges - new gaskets plus Hylomar. > - bad main clutch bearing; unit was noisy in direct 4th gear but much > quieter in OD; this bearing only works in direct drive and not in OD; it > was shot and interestingly could only be heard on test > rig and not when in car with road and engine noise. > > Plan to run the transmission for several hours prior to reinstalling in > car to get up to temp and check the leak enemy. > > Thinking ahead, was looking and making one of Michael S?s famous oil pump > release tools; have done a few dry runs using the wire method and wonder > why MS chose the wire tool over holding the spring with some thin wire as > others have done ? > rg > > > > > > > > *From:* Michael Salter > *Sent:* Wednesday, January 4, 2017 8:47 AM > *To:* BJ8Healeys > *Cc:* Healey List > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive > > Hi Steve, > Best wishes for a Happy and Prosperous New Year. > Yep those symptoms mostly make sense. > > *"The first time it would engage when cold, but not when hot. The > accumulator walls were severely gouged, probably from too much debris in > the oil from not having been changed frequently enough before I got the > car. I found no other problems. I concluded that the massive leakage > prevented the accumulator piston from moving back far enough against the > spring to direct the oil to the metering pin."* > In this case unfortunately you don't mention the pre-repair test pressures > but they would have been quite low, probably 300 odd cold and below 250 > hot, meaning that there was not enough pressure to move the clutch against > the springs. I would imagine that as your drove and the oil heated up the > unit would have started to slip and then dropped out of overdrive > altogether. > > > *The second time, the overdrive was slow to engage, felt like it was > slipping, and would make a whirring noise as it tried to do so. I put a > gauge on the O/D and went for a drive. I was reading 350 psi before the > O/D switch was flipped, dropping to 100 psi at it tried to engage and back > up to 350 - 365 psi after engagement. I found a broken accumulator piston > ring and a loose ring in the bottom of the accumulator bore. After > correcting that (and a broken thrust washer behind the planetaries), I read > 450 psi before flipping the O/D switch and 250 psi as it engaged. I > neglected to record the recovery pressure. This was done on a test rig and > I did not repeat the test on the road since the O/D worked perfectly after > reinstallation in the car.* > In this case the pressure during engagement is a little low but that is, > as you found, probably due to damage in the accumulator. I'm surprised to > hear that it slipped with a 350 -360 engaged pressure but that may have had > something to do with the broken thrust preventing full travel of the clutch > member...not sure about that one.. I have experienced that whirring > noise on some units as well I suspect it is the unidirectional clutch > slipping.. I envy your test rig...I always intended to build one but I > never got a round tuit... > M > > On Wed, Jan 4, 2017 at 10:46 AM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > >> Mike, what I mentioned to Neil is that both times I have had problems >> with my overdrive failing to engage, or engaging sluggishly, the problem >> was the accumulator. The first time it would engage when cold, but not >> when hot. The accumulator walls were severely gouged, probably from too >> much debris in the oil from not having been changed frequently enough >> before I got the car. I found no other problems. I concluded that the >> massive leakage prevented the accumulator piston from moving back far >> enough against the spring to direct the oil to the metering pin. >> >> The second time, the overdrive was slow to engage, felt like it was >> slipping, and would make a whirring noise as it tried to do so. I put a >> gauge on the O/D and went for a drive. I was reading 350 psi before the >> O/D switch was flipped, dropping to 100 psi at it tried to engage and back >> up to 350 - 365 psi after engagement. I found a broken accumulator piston >> ring and a loose ring in the bottom of the accumulator bore. After >> correcting that (and a broken thrust washer behind the planetaries), I read >> 450 psi before flipping the O/D switch and 250 psi as it engaged. I >> neglected to record the recovery pressure. This was done on a test rig and >> I did not repeat the test on the road since the O/D worked perfectly after >> reinstallation in the car. >> >> >> >> Steve Byers >> >> HBJ8L/36666 >> >> BJ8 Registry >> >> AHCA Delegate at Large >> >> Havelock, NC >> >> >> >> >> >> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Michael >> Salter >> *Sent:* Wednesday, January 04, 2017 9:53 AM >> *To:* Neil McDonald >> *Cc:* Healey List >> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive >> >> >> >> Hi again Neil, >> >> With all due respects to Steve I would not suspect the accumulator >> because it is in the hydraulic circuit ahead of the operating valve. >> >> If the accumulator was leaking badly enough to prevent the overdrive from >> engaging you would never see 390 p.s.i. if you are testing at the operating >> valve plug with the ball and spring in position. >> >> Although the specified pressure for our units is 470 - 490 p.s.i. I have >> never seen one achieve 490 p.s.i. and have found units that operated quite >> satisfactorily with pressures as low as 300 p.s.i. hot. >> >> Someone suggested running the car on stands and manually lifting the >> valve setting lever. That is how I test for correct operation BUT PLEASE be >> ware of that driveshaft spinning next to your right hip. Getting yourself >> tangled up in that will ruin your day. >> >> Michael S >> >> BN1 #174 >> >> >> >> On Wed, Jan 4, 2017 at 6:05 AM, Neil McDonald wrote: >> >> Yesterday I wrote "I have concluded that the most likely cause of my >> problems are low OD fluid levels and/or inadequate opening of the actuating >> valve. Both I can readily deal with." >> >> >> >> In off line discussions with Steve Byers I have added a third and ominous >> possibility, a defective accumulator. The good hydraulic pressure already >> confirmed only indicates that the pump is OK because testing was not done >> while trying to engage the OD. My understanding is that OD engagement is >> the accumulator's function and the pump's role is to pressurise the >> accumulator for this task *before* OD engagement. A definitive test of >> accumulator condition seems to be how well it holds pressure after the >> engine is switched off! >> >> _____________________ >> >> Neil McDonald >> >> >> >> Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com >> >> >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >> >> >> > > > -- > *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.* > > ------------------------------ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net > > ------------------------------ > > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 2016.0.7996 / Virus Database: 4749/13725 - Release Date: 01/07/17 > > -- *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Jan 8 19:34:35 2017 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2017 10:34:35 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Tyres References: The one interesting thing about running original style tyres is the balance of the car comes in to clear view, and being able to run with a full control four wheel slide can be done with these tyres. Safetywise they aren't as good, but really they are alot of fun to drive, and ultimately are much less hard on suspension components. Good thing is the original style tyres are now available in steel belted form, improving safety, effectively they are truck tyres. I use them on my Jag Mk IX and I love they way they run. On Fri, Jan 6, 2017 at 8:53 PM, Neil McDonald wrote: > Discovered this very interesting picture from the Longstone Tyres (UK) > website illustrating different Healey tyre options. The middle tyre with a > white label is the original 590/15 and the two on the right hand end are > the very common 165/15 radial replacements which Moss Motors recommends and > are as currently fitted to my car. > > Longstone recommends the Michelin XAS 180HR15 pictured on the immediate > right of the 590/15 - apparently for all big Healeys. Note the different > diameters! > > In view of ground clearance concerns it seems to me that 180/15 is the way > to go. However checking these same tyres on the Coker (US) website, they > say that they are intended for 5-6.5 inch rims..... but the BN6 only has 4" > rims! > > Should I be concerned at this apparent Longstone-Coker-Moss conflict? > > > > > _____________________ > Neil McDonald > > Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jarowe at westnet.com.au Sun Jan 8 21:17:26 2017 From: jarowe at westnet.com.au (John Rowe) Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2017 12:17:26 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey - travel from US to Canada Hi All I'm looking for some worldly wisdom about travel from the US to Canada. I am part of the Formula Junior world tour to celebrate the 60th Anniversary in 2018 and have my Lotus 18 in a container with 8 other FJs from WesternAustralia. The trip started in Perth in October 2016 and has already been to Melbourne and Sydney and is now in the north island of New Zealand. There are two race meetings in the north island and 3 more following in the south island. The container then heads for New York for at least 3 race meetings in June 2017 at Indianapolis, Mosport and Mid Ohio. Now the big question I have is what is the best way to transport 9 race cars around the mid US and Canada. We are looking at the possibility of trucking the container to each track in turn and hiring a crane to unload and load the container at the track. I should mention here that there will be at least 4 extra containers carrying UK and NZ cars doing the same thing. Our personal travel is another big issue. Most couples are looking at the hired RV route but the major problem is that the hired RVs cannot go into Canada from the US. If any one has any other ideas please share them. Kind regards John Rowe Perth 3000Mk 1 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Jan 8 23:32:13 2017 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2017 14:32:13 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey - travel from US to Canada References: <9e47846f-00f6-8eb8-e005-4d75aaa8edf8@westnet.com.au> Hi John - Usually the easiest way to move cars across the border is actually with you driving across the border, unfortunately. For whatever reason moving cars across the US Canada border is a right pain in the ass and involves VATs, paperwork, costs, etc. I don't know if that helps, but that's my opinion. Best, Alan On Mon, Jan 9, 2017 at 12:17 PM, John Rowe wrote: > Hi All > > I'm looking for some worldly wisdom about travel from the US to Canada. > > I am part of the Formula Junior world tour to celebrate the 60th > Anniversary in 2018 and have my Lotus 18 in a container with 8 other FJs > from WesternAustralia. > > The trip started in Perth in October 2016 and has already been to > Melbourne and Sydney and is now in the north island of New Zealand. There > are two race meetings in the north island and 3 more following in the south > island. > > The container then heads for New York for at least 3 race meetings in June > 2017 at Indianapolis, Mosport and Mid Ohio. > > Now the big question I have is what is the best way to transport 9 race > cars around the mid US and Canada. > > We are looking at the possibility of trucking the container to each track > in turn and hiring a crane to unload and load the container at the track. > I should mention here that there will be at least 4 extra containers > carrying UK and NZ cars doing the same thing. > > Our personal travel is another big issue. Most couples are looking at the > hired RV route but the major problem is that the hired RVs cannot go into > Canada from the US. > > If any one has any other ideas please share them. > > Kind regards > John Rowe > Perth > 3000Mk 1 > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Mon Jan 9 05:45:16 2017 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2017 07:45:16 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey - travel from US to Canada References: <9e47846f-00f6-8eb8-e005-4d75aaa8edf8@westnet.com.au> John-- >From the CruiseAmerica FAQ site: "US registered RVs may enter Canada and return to the US and Canadian registered RVs may enter the US and return to Canada without problem. One way rentals between the two countries are not allowed." As to transporting the FJ's I would be looking to make a deal with someone who has an enclosed rig capable of handling 4-5 FJ's to follow you guys from race to race. There are commercial companies such as Passport who do this but you will certainly do better with individual owner/drivers. Contact me offlist and i will give you the name of some people of whom you can inquire/enquire. Best--Michael Oritt. On Sun, Jan 8, 2017 at 11:17 PM, John Rowe wrote: > Hi All > > I'm looking for some worldly wisdom about travel from the US to Canada. > > I am part of the Formula Junior world tour to celebrate the 60th > Anniversary in 2018 and have my Lotus 18 in a container with 8 other FJs > from WesternAustralia. > > The trip started in Perth in October 2016 and has already been to > Melbourne and Sydney and is now in the north island of New Zealand. There > are two race meetings in the north island and 3 more following in the south > island. > > The container then heads for New York for at least 3 race meetings in June > 2017 at Indianapolis, Mosport and Mid Ohio. > > Now the big question I have is what is the best way to transport 9 race > cars around the mid US and Canada. > > We are looking at the possibility of trucking the container to each track > in turn and hiring a crane to unload and load the container at the track. > I should mention here that there will be at least 4 extra containers > carrying UK and NZ cars doing the same thing. > > Our personal travel is another big issue. Most couples are looking at the > hired RV route but the major problem is that the hired RVs cannot go into > Canada from the US. > > If any one has any other ideas please share them. > > Kind regards > John Rowe > Perth > 3000Mk 1 > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jstmorris at yahoo.com Mon Jan 9 06:46:43 2017 From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris) Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2017 13:46:43 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey - travel from US to Canada References: <9e47846f-00f6-8eb8-e005-4d75aaa8edf8@westnet.com.au> HelloJohn;? Perhaps Jeremy Sale can help youor direct you to the best person to do so.?Jeremy is the editor of VARAC publications Pit Signals and The Vintage Racer - see???????? www.varac.ca????Iam copying him on this email - Jeremy Sale Good luck John and hopefully I will see you at Mosport.?--Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives On Monday, January 9, 2017 12:08 AM, John Rowe wrote: Hi All I'm looking for some worldly wisdom about travel from the US to Canada. I am part of the Formula Junior world tour to celebrate the 60th Anniversary in 2018 and have my Lotus 18 in a container with 8 other FJs from WesternAustralia. The trip started in Perth in October 2016 and has already been to Melbourne and Sydney and is now in the north island of New Zealand. There are two race meetings in the north island and 3 more following in the south island. The container then heads for New York for at least 3 race meetings in June 2017 at Indianapolis, Mosport and Mid Ohio. Now the big question I? have is what is the best way to transport 9 race cars around the mid US and Canada. We are looking at the possibility of trucking the container to each track in turn and hiring a crane to unload and load the container at the? track. I should mention here that there will be at least 4 extra containers carrying UK and NZ cars doing the same thing. Our personal travel is another big issue. Most couples are looking at the hired RV route but the major problem is that the hired RVs cannot go into Canada from the US. If any one has any other ideas please share them. Kind regards John Rowe Perth 3000Mk 1 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Mon Jan 9 08:05:39 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2017 15:05:39 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Mount a coil on an alternator. References: <001a01d25d47$7f054a40$7d0fdec0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> <001f01d25d6b$c3c49590$4b4dc0b0$@speakeasy.net> <01aa01d25df4$61ea15a0$25be40e0$@speakeasy.net> <1482608833982.439594.8bbb8c5a781d7d0097e33aa560429fca481442ab@spica.telekom.de> <006301d25ed8$0660f4d0$1322de70$@speakeasy.net> Thanks for all the help and advice concerning my query. I was never happy with where I?d put the coil after swapping generator for alternator so, as you?ll recall, I was looking for a better location. It seemed that I might as well try to mount it on top of the alternator. I?d been assured that alternators would be even less likely to ?interfere? with a coil than a generator and vice verca and, if that location had been good enough with a generator (heat and vibration), why not with an alternator? I bought an old Lucas bracket on eBay, adjusted the curve, got a much longer bolt and stuck the assembly onto the alternator. Plainly, it wasn?t quite that simple but that?s the pr?cis version. See attached. Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Generator alternator comparison 2013 1.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 3391344 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Generator alternator comparison 2017 1b.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 3859482 bytes Desc: not available URL: From Ed at wadsworthoneal.com Mon Jan 9 14:30:20 2017 From: Ed at wadsworthoneal.com (Ed O'Neal) Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2017 21:30:20 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BT7 distributor condenser Gents, What is the correct rating for the BT7 distributor (capacitor) - ?F and withstand voltage? From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randy Hicks Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2017 9:38 PM To: R. Lindsay Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Washer Reservoir Bracket Color Price, I?m promoting the Austin Healey 2017 Concours Guidelines today! ? See if this helps: 1. Windshield Washer Bottle 100 ? Had no windshield washer as standard fitting though it was available as an accessory on late BN1s and all BN2s. 100 Six, 3000 * Location: through the BJ7, the windshield washer bottle is mounted into the package tray inside the interior. These bottles and mountings are described in the interior section. On BJ8s, with the revision of the interior to incorporate the walnut fascia and glove box, the bottle holding windshield washer liquid was moved to the engine compartment. On these cars, the bottle is made of white plastic with a plastic screw top. * Bottle: Longbridge BN4's used a Trafalgar glass bottle (17H579) (see Photos ? Figure III-8 a- d); a Tudor plastic bottle (37H9798) was introduced at Abingdon sometime prior to BN4 C. 68960 (this would have been before BN4 production was temporarily halted in spring1958). The Glass bottle (17H579) was also used on early BN6s up through C. 1182 (built in May ?58, according to Clausager). The BN4 Service Parts List shows another 1 1?2? neck diameter container (37H9763) followed by a 2 3/16? diameter neck one (37H9729) introduced when BN4 production resumed at C. 68960 (in Sept. 1958). This same wide-mouth bottle (37H9729) is also listed in the BN6 Service Parts List as being introduced at BN6/1183, which would have been built well before BN4 C. 68960, so it is not clear exactly what the differences between the first two plastic BN4 bottles was, and when they were used. 25 On original BJ7s a metal squirrel cage has been found. On BJ8s, in 1964 and also later, white plastic squirrel cages have been found. A plastic bottle was used on non-BN4 six cylinder cars. 3000?s On Phase I BJ8s the bottle is plain, with no logo/markings, and sits in a metal support frame painted black. Cast into the bottom of the plastic bottle is the location of the ?Tudor? company and other information. On Phase II BJ8s there is a large trademark screened onto the side of the bottle, consisting of the word "Tudor" reversed out in white on a distinctive bright blue background. (The Tudor trademark on these bottles definitely was not a separate decal.) The screened logo color may vary a bit between cars as a result of aging. On Phase II cars, the metal frame is a slightly different shape and is painted a shade of blue which was a bit lighter than the Tudor trademark. There also was an evolution of bottle cap and outlet shapes (see Figure III-7a-e for examples and detailed descriptions). The 2017 Concours Guidelines are an incredible series of documents detailing how Big Healeys (and Sprites - separate document) were originally put together. if you contact Mike Osipik (below) he will give you a couple options on receiving a copy of the Guidelines package. He can download it through DropBox (immediately available to you) or he can send you a CD. DropBox is very easy. (816) 729-9119 Home Randy Randy Hicks Austin Healey Concours Registry Committee AHCA 100 Registrar www.austinhealey100m.com What is the proper color for the washer reservoir bracket on a 67 BJ8? How many ?Tudor? labels are attached to the reservoir? Is there a specific height on the reservoir? Many thanks! Price Lindsay 67 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Jan 9 15:48:08 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2017 14:48:08 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box The Moss catalog calls for 6 'belleville' washers under the rocker shaft in the late BN, early BN4/6 steering box (Moss part# 725-115). Mine doesn't appear to have ever had them; anyone know if they're required? I'm guessing yes, because otherwise the rocker shaft looks like it rests on a rough surface but, they list for $12.79/ea, and if they're not necessary--or if anyone knows of a cheaper alternative--I'd prefer not to spend that much. TIA, Bob From michael.salter at gmail.com Mon Jan 9 16:40:18 2017 From: michael.salter at gmail.com (michael.salter at gmail.com) Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2017 23:40:18 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] BT7 distributor condenser References: <5DF89A96AFE9744A854AC9AD65E693CC706F193B@mbx027-w1-ca-4.exch027.domain.local> Hi Ed, The capacitance figure quoted by Lucas is 0.18 - 0.25 microfarads. I don't recall ever having seen a voltage figure. Michael S BN1 #174 Too Soon Old...To Late Smart... On Mon, Jan 9, 2017 at 6:32 PM -0500, "Ed O'Neal" wrote: Gents, ? What is the correct rating for the BT7 distributor (capacitor) - ?F and? withstand voltage? ? ? ? From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randy Hicks Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2017 9:38 PM To: R. Lindsay Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Washer Reservoir Bracket Color ? Price, I?m promoting the Austin Healey 2017 Concours Guidelines today! ?? ? See if this helps: ? Windshield Washer Bottle? 100 ? Had no windshield washer as standard fitting though it was available as an accessory on late BN1s and all BN2s. 100 Six, 3000 Location: through the BJ7, the windshield washer bottle is mounted into the package tray inside the interior. These bottles and mountings are described in the interior section. On BJ8s, with the revision of the interior to incorporate the walnut fascia and glove box, the bottle holding windshield washer liquid was moved to the engine compartment. On these cars, the bottle is made of white plastic with a plastic screw top. Bottle: Longbridge BN4's used a Trafalgar glass bottle (17H579) (see Photos ? Figure III-8 a- d); a Tudor plastic bottle (37H9798) was introduced at Abingdon sometime prior to BN4 C. 68960 (this would have been before BN4 production was temporarily halted in spring1958). The Glass bottle (17H579) was also used on early BN6s up through C. 1182 (built in May ?58, according to Clausager). The BN4 Service Parts List shows another 1 1?2? neck diameter container (37H9763) followed by a 2 3/16? diameter neck one (37H9729) introduced when BN4 production resumed at C. 68960 (in Sept. 1958). This same wide-mouth bottle (37H9729) is also listed in the BN6 Service Parts List as being introduced at BN6/1183, which would have been built well before BN4 C. 68960, so it is not clear exactly what the differences between the first two plastic BN4 bottles was, and when they were used. 25 On original BJ7s a metal squirrel cage has been found. On BJ8s, in 1964 and also later, white plastic squirrel cages have been found. ??????????????????????????????? A plastic bottle was used on non-BN4 six cylinder cars. ? ??????????????? 3000?s ??????????????? On Phase I BJ8s the bottle is plain, with no logo/markings, and sits in a metal support frame painted black. Cast into the bottom of the ??????????????????? plastic bottle is the location of the ?Tudor? company and other information. ??????????????? On Phase II BJ8s there is a large trademark screened onto the side of the bottle, consisting of the word "Tudor" reversed out in white on a ??????????????????????????? distinctive bright blue background. (The Tudor trademark on these bottles definitely was not a separate decal.) The screened logo color ???? may vary a bit between cars as a result of aging. On Phase II cars, the metal frame is a slightly different shape and is painted a shade of ????????????????? blue which was a bit lighter than the Tudor trademark. There also was an evolution of bottle cap and outlet shapes (see Figure III-7a-e ??? for examples and detailed descriptions).? The 2017 Concours Guidelines are an incredible series of documents detailing how Big Healeys (and Sprites - separate document) were originally put together. ?if you contact Mike Osipik (below) he will give you a couple options on receiving a copy of the Guidelines package. He can download it through DropBox (immediately available to you) or he can send you a CD. DropBox is very easy.? ? mikeosipik at gmail.com ? (816) 729-9119 ?Home ? Randy ? Randy Hicks Austin Healey Concours Registry Committee AHCA 100 Registrar ahca100registrar at gmail.com www.austinhealey100m.com ? On Jan 7, 2017, at 2:25 PM, R. Lindsay <050.rpl at gmail.com> wrote: ? What is the proper color for the washer reservoir bracket on a 67 BJ8? ?How many ?Tudor? labels are attached to the reservoir? ?Is there a specific height on the reservoir? ? Many thanks! Price Lindsay 67 BJ8 ? ? _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m at me.com ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From robertlarson at att.net Mon Jan 9 19:22:54 2017 From: robertlarson at att.net (Bob) Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2017 21:22:54 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box References: <5c4d20a5-d2ec-b119-8b67-e3a3923683eb@comcast.net> Seems quite high. I'd check here to see what you can find: https://www.mcmaster.com/#belleville-spring-washers/=15udtax Need more info to check further. Bob 55BN1 On 1/9/2017 5:48 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > The Moss catalog calls for 6 'belleville' washers under the rocker shaft in > the late BN, early BN4/6 steering box (Moss part# 725-115). Mine doesn't > appear to have ever had them; anyone know if they're required? I'm guessing > yes, because otherwise the rocker shaft looks like it rests on a rough surface > but, they list for $12.79/ea, and if they're not necessary--or if anyone knows > of a cheaper alternative--I'd prefer not to spend that much. > > TIA, > > Bob From gablegerry at netscape.net Mon Jan 9 19:23:45 2017 From: gablegerry at netscape.net (gablegerry at netscape.net) Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2017 21:23:45 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] condencer My BN6 came with a condenser on top of the coil but not attached to anything. Any idea where this condenser is to be reinstalled and what condenser should I replace it with. Thanks -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Jan 9 19:38:41 2017 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2017 10:38:41 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box References: <5c4d20a5-d2ec-b119-8b67-e3a3923683eb@comcast.net> I am pretty sure those washers are there to shim the peg shaft up so you can lock the peg at the correct height to engage the worm gear properly. You definitely want them there, I think a few thin copper washers should do. On Tue, Jan 10, 2017 at 6:48 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > The Moss catalog calls for 6 'belleville' washers under the rocker shaft > in the late BN, early BN4/6 steering box (Moss part# 725-115). Mine > doesn't appear to have ever had them; anyone know if they're required? I'm > guessing yes, because otherwise the rocker shaft looks like it rests on a > rough surface but, they list for $12.79/ea, and if they're not > necessary--or if anyone knows of a cheaper alternative--I'd prefer not to > spend that much. > > TIA, > > Bob > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Jan 9 19:40:24 2017 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2017 10:40:24 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey - travel from US to Canada References: <9e47846f-00f6-8eb8-e005-4d75aaa8edf8@westnet.com.au> Just to clarify - you do need to be with the car when crossing the border, and then it becomes easy. If you ship and a third party is crossing with the car, then it becomes complicated. On Mon, Jan 9, 2017 at 8:45 PM, Michael Oritt wrote: > John-- > > From the CruiseAmerica FAQ site: "US registered RVs may enter Canada and > return to the US and Canadian registered RVs may enter the US and return to > Canada without problem. One way rentals between the two countries are not > allowed." > > As to transporting the FJ's I would be looking to make a deal with someone > who has an enclosed rig capable of handling 4-5 FJ's to follow you guys > from race to race. There are commercial companies such as Passport who do > this but you will certainly do better with individual owner/drivers. > Contact me offlist and i will give you the name of some people of whom you > can inquire/enquire. > > Best--Michael Oritt. > > > > On Sun, Jan 8, 2017 at 11:17 PM, John Rowe wrote: > >> Hi All >> >> I'm looking for some worldly wisdom about travel from the US to Canada. >> >> I am part of the Formula Junior world tour to celebrate the 60th >> Anniversary in 2018 and have my Lotus 18 in a container with 8 other FJs >> from WesternAustralia. >> >> The trip started in Perth in October 2016 and has already been to >> Melbourne and Sydney and is now in the north island of New Zealand. There >> are two race meetings in the north island and 3 more following in the south >> island. >> >> The container then heads for New York for at least 3 race meetings in >> June 2017 at Indianapolis, Mosport and Mid Ohio. >> >> Now the big question I have is what is the best way to transport 9 race >> cars around the mid US and Canada. >> >> We are looking at the possibility of trucking the container to each track >> in turn and hiring a crane to unload and load the container at the track. >> I should mention here that there will be at least 4 extra containers >> carrying UK and NZ cars doing the same thing. >> >> Our personal travel is another big issue. Most couples are looking at the >> hired RV route but the major problem is that the hired RVs cannot go into >> Canada from the US. >> >> If any one has any other ideas please share them. >> >> Kind regards >> John Rowe >> Perth >> 3000Mk 1 >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com >> >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Jan 9 19:46:12 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2017 18:46:12 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box References: <5c4d20a5-d2ec-b119-8b67-e3a3923683eb@comcast.net> Unfortunately, I have no idea what the material, OD, ID, thickness, dish or flat load are; else I would order from McMaster or other, more reasonable, supplier. On 1/9/2017 6:22 PM, Bob wrote: > Seems quite high. > > I'd check here to see what you can find: > > https://www.mcmaster.com/#belleville-spring-washers/=15udtax > > Need more info to check further. > > Bob > > 55BN1 > > > On 1/9/2017 5:48 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > >> The Moss catalog calls for 6 'belleville' washers under the rocker >> shaft in the late BN, early BN4/6 steering box (Moss part# 725-115). >> Mine doesn't appear to have ever had them; anyone know if they're >> required? I'm guessing yes, because otherwise the rocker shaft looks >> like it rests on a rough surface but, they list for $12.79/ea, and if >> they're not necessary--or if anyone knows of a cheaper >> alternative--I'd prefer not to spend that much. >> >> TIA, >> >> Bob > > From rrengineer.mike at att.net Mon Jan 9 23:54:02 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2017 06:54:02 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of washers... References: <1006366135.106161.1484031242439.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Where do you get the "shakeproof" washer that goes under the steering wheel nut?? Not available from the usual suspects.Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From josef-eckert at t-online.de Tue Jan 10 00:21:31 2017 From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2017 08:21:31 +0100 (MET) Subject: [Healeys] condencer References: <426797236.2102518.1483736963644@mail.yahoo.com> <15986303ced-50b5-9ba5d@webprd-a05.mail.aol.com> Perhaps this condenser was a temporary fit after fail of the normal condenser fitted in the distributor. When the condenser in the distributor is changed to a good one you can take the external off. It also could be it was fitted as a failsafe in case the original in the distributor fails and you want a fast repair. Wire of the external condenser is to be fixed to the terminal of the coil where the white/black cable goes, only in case the dizi-condenser fails. Josef eckert Konigswinter/Germany -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: Re: [Healeys] condencer Datum: 2017-01-10T07:57:49+0100 Von: "gablegerry at netscape.net" An: "healey at autox.team.net" My BN6 came with a condenser on top of the coil but not attached to anything. Any idea where this condenser is to be reinstalled and what condenser should I replace it with. Thanks ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Jan 10 01:42:11 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2017 09:42:11 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] condencer References: <15986303ced-50b5-9ba5d@webprd-a05.mail.aol.com> Could this be an interference surpressor for the radio? Kees Oudesluijs Op 10-1-2017 om 3:23 schreef gablegerry at netscape.net: > My BN6 came with a condenser on top of the coil but not attached to > anything. Any idea where this condenser is to be reinstalled and what > condenser should I replace it with. > Thanks > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Jan 10 01:49:16 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2017 09:49:16 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] BT7 distributor condenser References: <5DF89A96AFE9744A854AC9AD65E693CC706F193B@mbx027-w1-ca-4.exch027.domain.local> <749F94B05E660FF2.08a2b76a-82f6-479d-b2c2-0e8ed679e0bc@mail.outlook.com> As the quality of new capacitors seems to be atrocious I would think that a capacitor from a radio shack may be a suitable and very cheap alternative. 0,2 microF and 200V or more would do I imagine. Any experience someone? Kees Oudesluijs Op 10-1-2017 om 0:40 schreef michael.salter at gmail.com: > > Hi Ed, > The capacitance figure quoted by Lucas is 0.18 - 0.25 microfarads. > I don't recall ever having seen a voltage figure. > Michael S > BN1 #174 > > Too Soon Old...To Late Smart... > > > > > On Mon, Jan 9, 2017 at 6:32 PM -0500, "Ed O'Neal" > > Gents, > > What is the correct rating for the BT7 distributor (capacitor) - > ?F and withstand voltage? > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf > Of *Randy Hicks > *Sent:* Saturday, January 07, 2017 9:38 PM > *To:* R. Lindsay > *Cc:* Healey List > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Washer Reservoir Bracket Color > > Price, I?m promoting the Austin Healey 2017 Concours Guidelines > today! ? > > See if this helps: > > 1. *Windshield Washer Bottle * > > *100 * > > ? Had no windshield washer as standard fitting though it was > available as an accessory on late BN1s and all BN2s. > > *100 Six, 3000 * > > * Location: through the BJ7, the windshield washer bottle is > mounted into the package tray inside the interior. These > bottles and mountings are described in the interior section. > > On BJ8s, with the revision of the interior to incorporate the > walnut fascia and glove box, the bottle holding windshield washer > liquid was moved to the engine compartment. On these cars, the > bottle is made of white plastic with a plastic screw top. > > * Bottle: > Longbridge BN4's used a *Trafalgar *glass bottle (17H579) > (see Photos ? Figure III-8 a- d); a *Tudor *plastic bottle > (37H9798) was introduced at Abingdon sometime prior to BN4 > C. 68960 (this would have been before BN4 production was > temporarily halted in spring1958). The Glass bottle > (17H579) was also used on early BN6s up through C. 1182 > (built in May ?58, according to Clausager). The BN4 > Service Parts List shows another 1 1?2? neck diameter > container (37H9763) followed by a 2 3/16? diameter neck > one (37H9729) introduced when BN4 production resumed at C. > 68960 (in Sept. 1958). This same wide-mouth bottle > (37H9729) is also listed in the BN6 Service Parts List as > being introduced at BN6/1183, which would have been built > well before BN4 C. 68960, so it is not clear exactly what > the differences between the first two plastic BN4 bottles > was, and when they were used. > > /25 //On original BJ7s a metal squirrel cage has been found. On > BJ8s, in 1964 and also later, white plastic squirrel cages have > been found. / > > A plastic bottle was used on non-BN4 six cylinder cars. > > *3000**?s* > > On Phase I BJ8s the bottle is plain, with no logo/markings, and > sits in a metal support frame painted black. Cast into the bottom > of the plastic bottle is the location of the ?Tudor? company and > other information. > > On Phase II BJ8s there is a large trademark screened onto the side > of the bottle, consisting of the word "Tudor" reversed out in > white on a distinctive bright blue background. (The Tudor > trademark on these bottles definitely was not a separate decal.) > The screened logo color may vary a bit between cars as a result of > aging. On Phase II cars, the metal frame is a slightly different > shape and is painted a shade of blue which was a bit lighter than > the Tudor trademark. There also was an evolution of bottle cap and > outlet shapes (see Figure III-7a-e for examples and detailed > descriptions). > > The 2017 Concours Guidelines are an incredible series of documents > detailing how Big Healeys (and Sprites - separate document) were > originally put together. if you contact Mike Osipik (below) he > will give you a couple options on receiving a copy of the > Guidelines package. He can download it through DropBox > (immediately available to you) or he can send you a CD. DropBox is > very easy. > > > (816) 729-9119 Home > > Randy > > Randy Hicks > > Austin Healey Concours Registry Committee > > AHCA 100 Registrar > > > www.austinhealey100m.com > > On Jan 7, 2017, at 2:25 PM, R. Lindsay <050.rpl at gmail.com > > What is the proper color for the washer reservoir bracket on a > 67 BJ8? How many ?Tudor? labels are attached to the > reservoir? Is there a specific height on the reservoir? > > Many thanks! > > > Price Lindsay > > 67 BJ8 > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net > http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m at me.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Jan 10 02:02:07 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2017 10:02:07 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box References: <5c4d20a5-d2ec-b119-8b67-e3a3923683eb@comcast.net> The Belleville washers used in the A-H will no doubt be standard items, so if you know the I.D. and O.D. you can get them wherever you want for pennies rather than over 10 pounds or dollars. Check though how they are fitted, all in the same direction makes for a very stiff "spring" with little travel, opposing each other gives much more travel and less force to compress. Kees Oudesluijs Op 9-1-2017 om 23:48 schreef Bob Spidell: > The Moss catalog calls for 6 'belleville' washers under the rocker > shaft in the late BN, early BN4/6 steering box (Moss part# 725-115). > Mine doesn't appear to have ever had them; anyone know if they're > required? I'm guessing yes, because otherwise the rocker shaft looks > like it rests on a rough surface but, they list for $12.79/ea, and if > they're not necessary--or if anyone knows of a cheaper > alternative--I'd prefer not to spend that much. > > TIA, > > Bob > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > From per at schoerner.se Tue Jan 10 10:54:45 2017 From: per at schoerner.se (Per Schoerner) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2017 10:54:45 GMT+0100 Subject: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box References: <5c4d20a5-d2ec-b119-8b67-e3a3923683eb@comcast.net> <9171f92c-a680-6420-7f86-67a77910dd0b@comcast.net> Bob For sure you need the belleville washers, and correctly installed as well. You need 6 of them. They act as a spring in the steering box. I've seen a steering box that missed 3 of them, that didn't work well. AH Spares have them for ?3,25 plus VAT. Best, Per On 10 January 2017 at 03:46:12 +01:00, Bob Spidell wrote: > Unfortunately, I have no idea what the material, OD, ID, thickness, dish or flat load are; else I would order from McMaster or other, more reasonable, supplier. > > > On 1/9/2017 6:22 PM, Bob wrote: > > > Seems quite high. > > > > I'd check here to see what you can find: > > > > > > > > Need more info to check further. > > > > Bob > > > > 55BN1 > > > > > > On 1/9/2017 5:48 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > > > > > > The Moss catalog calls for 6 'belleville' washers under the rocker shaft in the late BN, early BN4/6 steering box (Moss part# 725-115). Mine doesn't appear to have ever had them; anyone know if they're required? I'm guessing yes, because otherwise the rocker shaft looks like it rests on a rough surface but, they list for $12.79/ea, and if they're not necessary--or if anyone knows of a cheaper alternative--I'd prefer not to spend that much. > > > > > > TIA, > > > > > > Bob > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: > Forums: > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Jan 10 04:42:57 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2017 12:42:57 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of washers... References: <1006366135.106161.1484031242439.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1006366135.106161.1484031242439@mail.yahoo.com> Any hardware store? Kees Oudesluijs Op 10-1-2017 om 7:54 schreef Michael MacLean: > Where do you get the "shakeproof" washer that goes under the steering > wheel nut? Not available from the usual suspects. > Mike MacLean > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From neilandcustom at gmail.com Tue Jan 10 06:03:05 2017 From: neilandcustom at gmail.com (Neil Anderson) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2017 07:03:05 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of washers... References: <1006366135.106161.1484031242439.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1006366135.106161.1484031242439@mail.yahoo.com> Try the parts dept, at British Car Specialists. Neil Anderson BT7 On Tue, Jan 10, 2017 at 12:54 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: > Where do you get the "shakeproof" washer that goes under the steering > wheel nut? Not available from the usual suspects. > Mike MacLean > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/neilandcustom at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Jan 10 08:11:23 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2017 07:11:23 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of washers... References: <1006366135.106161.1484031242439.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1006366135.106161.1484031242439@mail.yahoo.com> <46f9949f-097c-5cd9-1237-df82e36031cf@chello.nl> Not likely ... it's an odd duck. On 1/10/2017 3:42 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > Any hardware store? > Kees Oudesluijs > > > Op 10-1-2017 om 7:54 schreef Michael MacLean: >> Where do you get the "shakeproof" washer that goes under the steering >> wheel nut? Not available from the usual suspects. >> Mike MacLean >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Steering box washer.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 121157 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Tue Jan 10 08:43:06 2017 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2017 10:43:06 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of washers... References: <1006366135.106161.1484031242439.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1006366135.106161.1484031242439@mail.yahoo.com> Hi Mike, Are you referring to the washer (locating bracket) Part # 2K8929 that has the split arm on it that turns the striker ring? Sorry this is the only picture I could find. [image: Inline image 1] Michael S BN1 #174 On Tue, Jan 10, 2017 at 1:54 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: > Where do you get the "shakeproof" washer that goes under the steering > wheel nut? Not available from the usual suspects. > Mike MacLean > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > > -- *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 715190 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeydoc at gmail.com Tue Jan 10 09:10:49 2017 From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2017 08:10:49 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box References: <5c4d20a5-d2ec-b119-8b67-e3a3923683eb@comcast.net> <9171f92c-a680-6420-7f86-67a77910dd0b@comcast.net> <1484042085407.52955.13452@webmail1> Yes the are necessary, they act as a spring for the steering rocker shaft. David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 209 948 8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: Per Schoerner Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2017 2:54 AM To: Bob Spidell Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box Bob For sure you need the belleville washers, and correctly installed as well. You need 6 of them. They act as a spring in the steering box. I've seen a steering box that missed 3 of them, that didn't work well. AH Spares have them for ?3,25 plus VAT. Best, Per On 10 January 2017 at 03:46:12 +01:00, Bob Spidell wrote: Unfortunately, I have no idea what the material, OD, ID, thickness, dish or flat load are; else I would order from McMaster or other, more reasonable, supplier. On 1/9/2017 6:22 PM, Bob wrote: Seems quite high. I'd check here to see what you can find: https://www.mcmaster.com/#belleville-spring-washers/=15udtax Need more info to check further. Bob 55BN1 On 1/9/2017 5:48 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: The Moss catalog calls for 6 'belleville' washers under the rocker shaft in the late BN, early BN4/6 steering box (Moss part# 725-115). Mine doesn't appear to have ever had them; anyone know if they're required? I'm guessing yes, because otherwise the rocker shaft looks like it rests on a rough surface but, they list for $12.79/ea, and if they're not necessary--or if anyone knows of a cheaper alternative--I'd prefer not to spend that much. TIA, Bob _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/per at schoerner.se -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cnaarndt at gmail.com Tue Jan 10 10:50:55 2017 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2017 09:50:55 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of washers... References: <1006366135.106161.1484031242439.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1006366135.106161.1484031242439@mail.yahoo.com> Michael, No, here are the suspect parts. He needs the shake proof washer. [image: Inline image 1] On Tue, Jan 10, 2017 at 7:43 AM, Michael Salter wrote: > Hi Mike, > Are you referring to the washer (locating bracket) Part # 2K8929 that has > the split arm on it that turns the striker ring? > Sorry this is the only picture I could find. > [image: Inline image 1] > Michael S > BN1 #174 > > On Tue, Jan 10, 2017 at 1:54 AM, Michael MacLean > wrote: > >> Where do you get the "shakeproof" washer that goes under the steering >> wheel nut? Not available from the usual suspects. >> Mike MacLean >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >> >> >> > > > -- > *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.* > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 364759 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 715190 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Non-adj. Steering Wheel.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 42514 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Tue Jan 10 11:23:36 2017 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2017 13:23:36 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of washers... References: <1006366135.106161.1484031242439.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1006366135.106161.1484031242439@mail.yahoo.com> Hi Mike, I have some.. Michael S BN1 #174 On Tue, Jan 10, 2017 at 12:50 PM, Curtis Arndt wrote: > Michael, > > No, here are the suspect parts. He needs the shake proof washer. > > [image: Inline image 1] > > On Tue, Jan 10, 2017 at 7:43 AM, Michael Salter > wrote: > >> Hi Mike, >> Are you referring to the washer (locating bracket) Part # 2K8929 that has >> the split arm on it that turns the striker ring? >> Sorry this is the only picture I could find. >> [image: Inline image 1] >> Michael S >> BN1 #174 >> >> On Tue, Jan 10, 2017 at 1:54 AM, Michael MacLean > > wrote: >> >>> Where do you get the "shakeproof" washer that goes under the steering >>> wheel nut? Not available from the usual suspects. >>> Mike MacLean >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >>> options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> -- >> *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.* >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com >> >> >> > -- *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 715190 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 364759 bytes Desc: not available URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Tue Jan 10 13:19:22 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2017 12:19:22 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of washers... References: <1006366135.106161.1484031242439.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1006366135.106161.1484031242439@mail.yahoo.com> You should be able to source a "wavy" washer at a hardware store. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Tue, Jan 10, 2017 at 9:50 AM, Curtis Arndt wrote: > Michael, > > No, here are the suspect parts. He needs the shake proof washer. > > [image: Inline image 1] > > On Tue, Jan 10, 2017 at 7:43 AM, Michael Salter > wrote: > >> Hi Mike, >> Are you referring to the washer (locating bracket) Part # 2K8929 that has >> the split arm on it that turns the striker ring? >> Sorry this is the only picture I could find. >> [image: Inline image 1] >> Michael S >> BN1 #174 >> >> On Tue, Jan 10, 2017 at 1:54 AM, Michael MacLean > > wrote: >> >>> Where do you get the "shakeproof" washer that goes under the steering >>> wheel nut? Not available from the usual suspects. >>> Mike MacLean >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >>> options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> -- >> *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.* >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com >> >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 364759 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 715190 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue Jan 10 13:34:01 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2017 20:34:01 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of washers... References: <1006366135.106161.1484031242439.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1006366135.106161.1484031242439@mail.yahoo.com> Curt,???? I have all in the picture except the shake proof washer.Mike On Tuesday, January 10, 2017 9:50 AM, Curtis Arndt wrote: Michael, No, here are the suspect parts.? He needs the shake proof washer. On Tue, Jan 10, 2017 at 7:43 AM, Michael Salter wrote: Hi Mike, Are you referring to the washer (locating bracket) Part # 2K8929 that has the split arm on it that turns the striker ring? Sorry this is the only picture I could find. Michael S BN1 #174 On Tue, Jan 10, 2017 at 1:54 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: Where do you get the "shakeproof" washer that goes under the steering wheel nut?? Not available from the usual suspects.Mike MacLean ______________________________ _________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/ listinfo/healeys -- If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem. ______________________________ _________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/ listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 364759 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 715190 bytes Desc: not available URL: From obrimberry at hunterbane.com Tue Jan 10 14:34:27 2017 From: obrimberry at hunterbane.com (Olin Brimberry) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2017 16:34:27 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box References: <5c4d20a5-d2ec-b119-8b67-e3a3923683eb@comcast.net> I just pulled mine out of a steering box I am rebuilding, and yes there are 6 positioned as such: ()()() Where only the outer edges touch. The dimensions are as follows: ID: 1-1/16 OD: 1-1/2 Pictures of the measurements are attached for verification purposes. The washers were loose on the shaft, but I think the closer tolerance is going to be on the OD side. Olin K. Brimberry, PE Principal Engineer obrimberry at hunterbane.com Office - 919.803.4274 Mobile - 919.522.1608 HunterBane Engineering, PLLC PO Box 10314 Raleigh, NC 27605 3306 Alamance Drive Raleigh, NC 27609 -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell at comcast.net] Sent: Monday, January 9, 2017 5:48 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box The Moss catalog calls for 6 'belleville' washers under the rocker shaft in the late BN, early BN4/6 steering box (Moss part# 725-115). Mine doesn't appear to have ever had them; anyone know if they're required? I'm guessing yes, because otherwise the rocker shaft looks like it rests on a rough surface but, they list for $12.79/ea, and if they're not necessary--or if anyone knows of a cheaper alternative--I'd prefer not to spend that much. TIA, Bob --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_8714.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1194232 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_8713.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1093806 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz Tue Jan 10 15:04:35 2017 From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson) Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2017 11:04:35 +1300 Subject: [Healeys] condenser References: <15986303ced-50b5-9ba5d@webprd-a05.mail.aol.com> <8cb79f95-8747-4a68-0288-58edd812a46f@chello.nl> I agree with Kees. I've had condensors (capacitors) fitted to spark coils on several of my cars in years gone by when the solid-core HT leads caused 'clicking' interference on our car radios. They had a metal case with a small bracket attached so that it could be clamped under the coil strap. I used to also fit them to the generator to stop 'hash' noise on the radio. Mark Ardmore, NZ https://www.howacarworks.com/accessories/identifying-and-suppressing-radio-i nterference _____ From: Oudesluys [mailto:coudesluijs at chello.nl] Sent: Tuesday, 10 January 2017 9:42 p.m. To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] condencer Could this be an interference surpressor for the radio? Kees Oudesluijs Op 10-1-2017 om 3:23 schreef gablegerry at netscape.net: My BN6 came with a condenser on top of the coil but not attached to anything. Any idea where this condenser is to be reinstalled and what condenser should I replace it with. Thanks _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From obrimberry at hunterbane.com Tue Jan 10 15:14:59 2017 From: obrimberry at hunterbane.com (Olin Brimberry) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2017 17:14:59 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box References: <5c4d20a5-d2ec-b119-8b67-e3a3923683eb@comcast.net> Bob, I figured height of the spring was also important, so I put 2 together and measured the height with calipers Height of 2 washers: 0.100 inches Height of 1 washer: 0.050 inches Thickness of washer: 0.025 inches Checking the previous diameter dimensions with a caliper, I get: ID: 1.057 inches OD: 1.5 inches I suspect that the ID is originally spec'd to be 1-1/16" but because of the slight "spring", the diameter is slightly less. Good luck Olin K. Brimberry, PE Principal Engineer obrimberry at hunterbane.com Office - 919.803.4274 Mobile - 919.522.1608 HunterBane Engineering, PLLC PO Box 10314 Raleigh, NC 27605 3306 Alamance Drive Raleigh, NC 27609 -----Original Message----- From: Olin Brimberry [mailto:obrimberry at hunterbane.com] Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2017 4:34 PM To: 'Bob Spidell' ; 'Healeys' Subject: RE: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box I just pulled mine out of a steering box I am rebuilding, and yes there are 6 positioned as such: ()()() Where only the outer edges touch. The dimensions are as follows: ID: 1-1/16 OD: 1-1/2 Pictures of the measurements are attached for verification purposes. The washers were loose on the shaft, but I think the closer tolerance is going to be on the OD side. Olin K. Brimberry, PE Principal Engineer obrimberry at hunterbane.com Office - 919.803.4274 Mobile - 919.522.1608 HunterBane Engineering, PLLC PO Box 10314 Raleigh, NC 27605 3306 Alamance Drive Raleigh, NC 27609 -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell at comcast.net] Sent: Monday, January 9, 2017 5:48 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box The Moss catalog calls for 6 'belleville' washers under the rocker shaft in the late BN, early BN4/6 steering box (Moss part# 725-115). Mine doesn't appear to have ever had them; anyone know if they're required? I'm guessing yes, because otherwise the rocker shaft looks like it rests on a rough surface but, they list for $12.79/ea, and if they're not necessary--or if anyone knows of a cheaper alternative--I'd prefer not to spend that much. TIA, Bob --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Jan 10 18:12:36 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2017 17:12:36 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box References: <5c4d20a5-d2ec-b119-8b67-e3a3923683eb@comcast.net> <001501d26b8e$fc7f3990$f57dacb0$@hunterbane.com> Thanks Olin. The search is on. Bob On 1/10/2017 2:14 PM, Olin Brimberry wrote: > Bob, > > I figured height of the spring was also important, so I put 2 together and measured the height with calipers > Height of 2 washers: 0.100 inches > Height of 1 washer: 0.050 inches > Thickness of washer: 0.025 inches > Checking the previous diameter dimensions with a caliper, I get: > > ID: 1.057 inches > OD: 1.5 inches > > I suspect that the ID is originally spec'd to be 1-1/16" but because of the slight "spring", the diameter is slightly less. Good luck > > Olin K. Brimberry, PE > Principal Engineer > obrimberry at hunterbane.com > Office - 919.803.4274 > Mobile - 919.522.1608 > > HunterBane Engineering, PLLC > PO Box 10314 > Raleigh, NC 27605 > 3306 Alamance Drive > Raleigh, NC 27609 > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Olin Brimberry [mailto:obrimberry at hunterbane.com] > Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2017 4:34 PM > To: 'Bob Spidell' ; 'Healeys' > Subject: RE: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box > > I just pulled mine out of a steering box I am rebuilding, and yes there are 6 positioned as such: ()()() Where only the outer edges touch. The dimensions are as follows: > > ID: 1-1/16 > OD: 1-1/2 > Pictures of the measurements are attached for verification purposes. > > The washers were loose on the shaft, but I think the closer tolerance is going to be on the OD side. > > Olin K. Brimberry, PE > Principal Engineer > obrimberry at hunterbane.com > Office - 919.803.4274 > Mobile - 919.522.1608 > > HunterBane Engineering, PLLC > PO Box 10314 > Raleigh, NC 27605 > 3306 Alamance Drive > Raleigh, NC 27609 > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell at comcast.net] > Sent: Monday, January 9, 2017 5:48 PM > To: Healeys > Subject: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box > > The Moss catalog calls for 6 'belleville' washers under the rocker shaft in the late BN, early BN4/6 steering box (Moss part# 725-115). Mine doesn't appear to have ever had them; anyone know if they're required? > I'm guessing yes, because otherwise the rocker shaft looks like it rests on a rough surface but, they list for $12.79/ea, and if they're not necessary--or if anyone knows of a cheaper alternative--I'd prefer not to spend that much. > > TIA, > > Bob > > > > > --- > This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. > https://www.avast.com/antivirus > > From austin.healey at gmail.com Tue Jan 10 18:19:49 2017 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2017 12:19:49 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Robin Williams was a Healey owner? Just read this from an old (1979) interview article with Robin Williams. "The externals of the Williams' lifestyle have changed surprisingly little since Mork. True, they moved from their rented beach apartment to a modest (by Hollywood standards) under $200,000 canyon home. Robin describes it as "rustic bordering on funk." Since his old Austin-Healey was stolen, he's bought a silver BMW. He also acquired a malamute, Sam, who visits the neighbors to watch TV (about all Williams watches is Taxi). On their acre of land, Robin and Valerie plan to add two dwarf goats to a burgeoning menagerie that now includes Polish chickens, Cora the parrot and Mr. I, the iguana who lives under the refrigerator (his companion, Truman Capote, has passed away). "My desire for material things is almost nonexistent," says Williams, who points out that his suburban Detroit upbringing as the son of a Ford Motor Co. exec accustomed him to comfort." http://www.robin-williams.net/interviews/mork/79-10.php Didn't know that! Anyone know more? Best Chris -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Jan 10 21:02:06 2017 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2017 12:02:06 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Robin Williams was a Healey owner? References: He was from SF Bay Area (Marin County) and Marin and Berkeley was ground zero for the British export market to the US, and for Volvo and Fiat as well. These cars are still everywhere in Marin and Berkeley. On Wed, Jan 11, 2017 at 9:19 AM, Chris Dimmock wrote: > Just read this from an old (1979) interview article with Robin Williams. > > "The externals of the Williams' lifestyle have changed surprisingly little > since Mork. True, they moved from their rented beach apartment to a modest > (by Hollywood standards) under $200,000 canyon home. Robin describes it as > "rustic bordering on funk." Since his old Austin-Healey was stolen, he's > bought a silver BMW. He also acquired a malamute, Sam, who visits the > neighbors to watch TV (about all Williams watches is Taxi). On their acre > of land, Robin and Valerie plan to add two dwarf goats to a burgeoning > menagerie that now includes Polish chickens, Cora the parrot and Mr. I, the > iguana who lives under the refrigerator (his companion, Truman Capote, has > passed away). "My desire for material things is almost nonexistent," says > Williams, who points out that his suburban Detroit upbringing as the son of > a Ford Motor Co. exec accustomed him to comfort." > http://www.robin-williams.net/interviews/mork/79-10.php > > > Didn't know that! > Anyone know more? > Best > Chris > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue Jan 10 21:47:53 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2017 04:47:53 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Correct Shift Lever References: <703102421.852990.1484110073416.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Does anyone know what the correct shift lever for a BN2 with a serial number starting with 232XXX? (my car)? I have one, but I want to be sure it is correct for a car made in May 1956.? I see a cutoff serial number in the Moss catalog of 228487.? Levers after that are the same for all later side shift cars?? Anyway here is a picture of the one I have now that a list member was kind enough to make available to me.? Problem is, the more I find out about this car the more I know that I know less than I thought I did.? I am sure this lever will work, but if it is the wrong one it will bug me every time I get in the car. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0649.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 171987 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Jan 10 23:14:27 2017 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2017 14:14:27 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] condencer References: <426797236.2102518.1483736963644@mail.yahoo.com> <15986303ced-50b5-9ba5d@webprd-a05.mail.aol.com> It's likely a ballast resistor. These are added to some coils to moderate the coil voltage which helps to prolong the life of your contacts and maintain timing settings for a longer period of time. It's not really needed, especially if you are using Pertronix. On Tue, Jan 10, 2017 at 10:23 AM, wrote: > My BN6 came with a condenser on top of the coil but not attached to > anything. Any idea where this condenser is to be reinstalled and what > condenser should I replace it with. > Thanks > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Tue Jan 10 23:38:46 2017 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2017 01:38:46 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Correct Shift Lever References: <703102421.852990.1484110073416.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <703102421.852990.1484110073416@mail.yahoo.com> Hi Michael, Not sure how much this will help but the parts book lists 2 (alternative) part numbers for cars after C.E.231968. The numbers are 1B3760 & 1B3761. They are not designated as LHD and RHD. 1B3760 is the same part number listed for a the BN6/4. I have no idea what is different from the earlier types of which there were four numbers listed. 2 for LHD and 2 for RHD. The socket for the end of the lever is the same for all BN2 as are the knob and locknut. Michael S BN1 #174 On Tue, Jan 10, 2017 at 11:47 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > Does anyone know what the correct shift lever for a BN2 with a serial > number starting with 232XXX? (my car) I have one, but I want to be sure it > is correct for a car made in May 1956. I see a cutoff serial number in the > Moss catalog of 228487. Levers after that are the same for all later side > shift cars? Anyway here is a picture of the one I have now that a list > member was kind enough to make available to me. Problem is, the more I > find out about this car the more I know that I know less than I thought I > did. I am sure this lever will work, but if it is the wrong one it will > bug me every time I get in the car. > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > > -- *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue Jan 10 23:44:21 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2017 06:44:21 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Correct Shift Lever References: <703102421.852990.1484110073416.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <703102421.852990.1484110073416@mail.yahoo.com> Thanks Michael.? It's beginning to look like I should just use the one I got.? I just wanted to be sure before I paid for the chrome plating. That's going to be another problem.? No good chrome platers in Southern California or anywhere in California anymore.? I have polishing and plating that needs to be done.? Some powder coating too. On Tuesday, January 10, 2017 10:38 PM, Michael Salter wrote: Hi Michael, Not sure how much this will help but the parts book lists 2 (alternative) part numbers for cars after C.E.231968. The numbers are 1B3760 & 1B3761. They are not designated as LHD and RHD. 1B3760 is the same part number listed for a the BN6/4. I have no idea what is different from the earlier types of which there were four numbers listed. 2 for LHD and 2 for RHD. The socket for the end of the lever is the same for all BN2 as are the knob and locknut. Michael S BN1 #174 On Tue, Jan 10, 2017 at 11:47 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: Does anyone know what the correct shift lever for a BN2 with a serial number starting with 232XXX? (my car)? I have one, but I want to be sure it is correct for a car made in May 1956.? I see a cutoff serial number in the Moss catalog of 228487.? Levers after that are the same for all later side shift cars?? Anyway here is a picture of the one I have now that a list member was kind enough to make available to me.? Problem is, the more I find out about this car the more I know that I know less than I thought I did.? I am sure this lever will work, but if it is the wrong one it will bug me every time I get in the car. ______________________________ _________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/ listinfo/healeys -- If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Jan 11 01:40:23 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2017 09:40:23 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of washers... References: <1006366135.106161.1484031242439.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1006366135.106161.1484031242439@mail.yahoo.com> These look fairly similar to me. https://www.jeveka.com/nl/catalog/veerringen-schotelveren-zekeringsringen-voor-as-en-gat/tandveerringen-buitentanding/tandveerringen-gesl.buitentand-6798a010/g+c+a https://www.jeveka.com/nl/catalog/veerringen-schotelveren-zekeringsringen-voor-as-en-gat/tandveerringen-buitentanding/verzonken-tandveerringen-6798v010/g+c+a Kees Oudesluijs Op 10-1-2017 om 18:50 schreef Curtis Arndt: > Michael, > > No, here are the suspect parts. He needs the shake proof washer. > > Inline image 1 > > On Tue, Jan 10, 2017 at 7:43 AM, Michael Salter > > Hi Mike, > Are you referring to the washer (locating bracket) Part # 2K8929 > that has the split arm on it that turns the striker ring? > Sorry this is the only picture I could find. > Inline image 1 > Michael S > BN1 #174 > > On Tue, Jan 10, 2017 at 1:54 AM, Michael MacLean > > Where do you get the "shakeproof" washer that goes under the > steering wheel nut? Not available from the usual suspects. > Mike MacLean > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > > > > > > -- > /If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem./ > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: not available Type: image/png Size: 364759 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: not available Type: image/png Size: 715190 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ahbn6 at verizon.net Wed Jan 11 06:45:12 2017 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2017 08:45:12 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Web Site I have recently been made aware of a couple of broken links on www.healey6.com. Normally I spend the month of December validating each and every link. There are hundreds of them. Frankly, I do not have the time to perform a proper validation as in the past. My wife is confined to a wheel chair 24/7 which means that I do all the housework, cooking and shopping. Also, I am recovering from a severe concussion which entailed 6 days in a hospital. Watch out for ice! That being said, I need your help. If you see a link that is not working, please give me the particulars - page and link topic. I will fix them asap but I can not do it properly without your help. Thanks. John Sims Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Wed Jan 11 06:56:36 2017 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2017 08:56:36 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Robin Williams was a Healey owner? References: G'day Chris. I started a thread on BCF on "Celebrity Healeys" that I later turned into an article for *Healey Marque*: http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?80993-Celebrity-Healeys&highlight=celebrity I try to keep the thread updated as I stumble across a new one. Surprising what turns up, like your former PM, Paul Keating: http://fasterlouder.junkee.com/paul-keating-was-a-teenage-rocknroller/834543 Happy Healeying, Rick Neville On Tue, Jan 10, 2017 at 8:19 PM, Chris Dimmock wrote: > Just read this from an old (1979) interview article with Robin Williams. > > "The externals of the Williams' lifestyle have changed surprisingly little > since Mork. True, they moved from their rented beach apartment to a modest > (by Hollywood standards) under $200,000 canyon home. Robin describes it as > "rustic bordering on funk." Since his old Austin-Healey was stolen, he's > bought a silver BMW. He also acquired a malamute, Sam, who visits the > neighbors to watch TV (about all Williams watches is Taxi). On their acre > of land, Robin and Valerie plan to add two dwarf goats to a burgeoning > menagerie that now includes Polish chickens, Cora the parrot and Mr. I, the > iguana who lives under the refrigerator (his companion, Truman Capote, has > passed away). "My desire for material things is almost nonexistent," says > Williams, who points out that his suburban Detroit upbringing as the son of > a Ford Motor Co. exec accustomed him to comfort." > http://www.robin-williams.net/interviews/mork/79-10.php > > > Didn't know that! > Anyone know more? > Best > Chris > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rustyle at comcast.net Wed Jan 11 08:17:53 2017 From: rustyle at comcast.net (Rusty Lesher) Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2017 10:17:53 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Robin Williams was a Healey owner? References: Yes. I believe it was a 1959 3000. I had read about it long ago in my ex-wife?s People magazine. I wanted to help him locate the car, but was unable to contact him. From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of HealeyRick Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2017 8:57 AM To: Chris Dimmock Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Robin Williams was a Healey owner? G'day Chris. I started a thread on BCF on "Celebrity Healeys" that I later turned into an article for Healey Marque: http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?80993-Celebrity-Healeys &highlight=celebrity I try to keep the thread updated as I stumble across a new one. Surprising what turns up, like your former PM, Paul Keating: http://fasterlouder.junkee.com/paul-keating-was-a-teenage-rocknroller/834543 Happy Healeying, Rick Neville Just read this from an old (1979) interview article with Robin Williams. "The externals of the Williams' lifestyle have changed surprisingly little since Mork. True, they moved from their rented beach apartment to a modest (by Hollywood standards) under $200,000 canyon home. Robin describes it as "rustic bordering on funk." Since his old Austin-Healey was stolen, he's bought a silver BMW. He also acquired a malamute, Sam, who visits the neighbors to watch TV (about all Williams watches is Taxi). On their acre of land, Robin and Valerie plan to add two dwarf goats to a burgeoning menagerie that now includes Polish chickens, Cora the parrot and Mr. I, the iguana who lives under the refrigerator (his companion, Truman Capote, has passed away). "My desire for material things is almost nonexistent," says Williams, who points out that his suburban Detroit upbringing as the son of a Ford Motor Co. exec accustomed him to comfort." http://www.robin-williams.net/interviews/mork/79-10.php Didn't know that! Anyone know more? Best Chris _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ahbn6 at verizon.net Wed Jan 11 11:05:43 2017 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2017 13:05:43 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] My site Well, I learn something new every day. I always knew that Healey people are great but John New ran my site through an automated link checker and gave me a list of 54 broken links. I have already corrected three of them and will do more as the day progresses. About 15 of them are State government sites that I used for specialized vehicle licensing. Those will take some time to research as I remember pulling out what was left of my hair trying to find the obscure places initially that our DMV friends (or fiends) placed them on their site. We owe mucho thanks to John for giving me this list and also giving me a tool that I can use periodically! John Sims Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jnew at hazelden.ca Wed Jan 11 12:07:21 2017 From: jnew at hazelden.ca (John P. New) Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2017 14:07:21 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] My site References: <005001d26c35$53c101b0$fb430510$@verizon.net> John, Glad I could be of service. It's the least I could do for someone who has contributed so much to the Healey community and whose site is such a wealth of knowledge. John P. New London, Ontario, Canada '67 BJ8 On January 11, 2017 01:05:43 PM John Sims wrote: > Well, I learn something new every day. I always knew that Healey people are > great but John New ran my site through an automated link checker and gave me > a list of 54 broken links. I have already corrected three of them and will > do more as the day progresses. About 15 of them are State government sites > that I used for specialized vehicle licensing. Those will take some time to > research as I remember pulling out what was left of my hair trying to find > the obscure places initially that our DMV friends (or fiends) placed them on > their site. > > We owe mucho thanks to John for giving me this list and also giving me a > tool that I can use periodically! > > John Sims > > Aberdeen, NJ > > www.healey6.com From austinhealeyslist at gmail.com Wed Jan 11 15:50:48 2017 From: austinhealeyslist at gmail.com (Austin Healeys List) Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2017 11:50:48 +1300 Subject: [Healeys] 10-32 thin nuts Anyone got a source for the small nuts used on Healeys? Original dimensions: 5/16" across flats, 1/8" thick, 10-32 (3/16UNF) thread, zinc plated.I can only seem to find 3/8" wrench size or full thickness ones. Andy. From austinhealeyslist at gmail.com Wed Jan 11 16:13:07 2017 From: austinhealeyslist at gmail.com (Austin Healeys List) Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2017 12:13:07 +1300 Subject: [Healeys] seat base foam A few years back I fixed up the BN4 seat bases with repro polyurethane foam inserts and after only 2000 miles they are disintegrating because the 'D' hole in the reproduction wood frame is too big and offers no support to the foam in the middle of the seat. As a result the foam has split around the edges of the D and the centre section that is unsupported is breaking free from the rest. The foam was originally so firm it was uncomfortable so I did the holesaw trick to reduce its stiffness but this appears to have contributed to the disintegration. Is this a common issue? What are others doing? Attached are a couple of pics, one from an unrestored BN4 showing a much smaller D hole, the other is of the repro part. I'm thinking of remaking the base with the smaller D hole to try and stop the prolapse. Andy. -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: repro seat.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 39906 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: seat.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 398032 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michael.salter at gmail.com Wed Jan 11 16:17:12 2017 From: michael.salter at gmail.com (michael.salter at gmail.com) Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2017 23:17:12 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] 10-32 thin nuts References: Spae Naur Michael S BN1 #174 On Wed, Jan 11, 2017 at 6:01 PM -0500, "Austin Healeys List" wrote: Anyone got a source for the small nuts used on Healeys? Original dimensions: 5/16" across flats, 1/8" thick, 10-32 (3/16UNF) thread, zinc plated.I can only seem to find 3/8" wrench size or full thickness ones. Andy. _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20170111_181459.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3818151 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ah53 at yahoo.com Wed Jan 11 16:23:42 2017 From: ah53 at yahoo.com (jomar) Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2017 18:23:42 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 10-32 thin nuts References: Try Clarks Spares Joe Sent from my iPad > On Jan 11, 2017, at 5:50 PM, Austin Healeys List wrote: > > Anyone got a source for the small nuts used on Healeys? > > Original dimensions: 5/16" across flats, 1/8" thick, 10-32 (3/16UNF) > thread, zinc plated.I can only seem to find 3/8" wrench size or full > thickness ones. > > Andy. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah53 at yahoo.com > From michael.salter at gmail.com Wed Jan 11 16:40:58 2017 From: michael.salter at gmail.com (michael.salter at gmail.com) Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2017 23:40:58 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Gear knob locknut Sorry to bomb the list but ... Someone asked me about a BSF locknut for a gearknob but I cannot find the message. I have a couple please contact me. Michael S BN1 #174 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From goldengt at cal.net Wed Jan 11 16:59:08 2017 From: goldengt at cal.net (goldengt) Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2017 15:59:08 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] 10-32 thin nuts Most good hardware stores or McMaster Carr. They're called small pattern.?Ken Freese? Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------- Original message --------From: Austin Healeys List Date: 1/11/17 2:50 PM (GMT-08:00) To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] 10-32 thin nuts Anyone got a source for the small nuts used on Healeys? Original dimensions: 5/16" across flats, 1/8" thick, 10-32 (3/16UNF) thread, zinc plated.I can only seem to find 3/8" wrench size or full thickness ones. Andy. _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz Wed Jan 11 17:19:15 2017 From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson) Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2017 13:19:15 +1300 Subject: [Healeys] Correct Shift Lever References: <703102421.852990.1484110073416.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <703102421.852990.1484110073416@mail.yahoo.com> Michael, My BN2 #232844 was built on 11 June 1956. It has the same gear lever as your car. Mark Ardmore, NZ _____ From: Michael MacLean [mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net] Sent: Wednesday, 11 January 2017 5:48 p.m. To: Healeys Help Subject: [Healeys] Correct Shift Lever Does anyone know what the correct shift lever for a BN2 with a serial number starting with 232XXX? (my car) I have one, but I want to be sure it is correct for a car made in May 1956. I see a cutoff serial number in the Moss catalog of 228487. Levers after that are the same for all later side shift cars? Anyway here is a picture of the one I have now that a list member was kind enough to make available to me. Problem is, the more I find out about this car the more I know that I know less than I thought I did. I am sure this lever will work, but if it is the wrong one it will bug me every time I get in the car. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sentenac.rw at gmail.com Wed Jan 11 17:26:34 2017 From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (Roland Wilhelmy) Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2017 16:26:34 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] 10-32 thin nuts References: They are called Small Pattern Nuts. Available at many sources. I use McMaster-Carr. -Roland Sent?from?my?BlackBerry?10?smartphone. ? Original Message ? From: Austin Healeys List Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2017 3:07 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] 10-32 thin nuts Anyone got a source for the small nuts used on Healeys? Original dimensions: 5/16" across flats, 1/8" thick, 10-32 (3/16UNF) thread, zinc plated.I can only seem to find 3/8" wrench size or full thickness ones. Andy.? From rrengineer.mike at att.net Wed Jan 11 17:56:15 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2017 00:56:15 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] seat base foam References: According to British Car Specialist's Tech Talk book, you should have 7 rows front to back of 4 holes spaced 1 1/2" off the longitudinal center line and 2 1/2" apart from each other front to back and left to right.? The two rear holes should only be 1/2" deep and the rest only 1" deep.? This is done with a 1 3/4" hole saw with the center drill bit removed.? Not sure if this will make any difference with the size hole you have in your wood frame or not. I don't know how big or how deep you made the holes.? Sounds like you need new foam, drill the holes again then you need to install some webbing over the hole for some support of the foam.Mike MacLean? On Wednesday, January 11, 2017 4:07 PM, Austin Healeys List wrote: A few years back I fixed up the BN4 seat bases with repro polyurethane foam inserts and after only 2000 miles they are disintegrating because the 'D' hole in the reproduction wood frame is too big and offers no support to the foam in the middle of the seat. As a result the foam has split around the edges of the D and the centre section that is unsupported is breaking free from the rest. The foam was originally so firm it was uncomfortable so I did the holesaw trick to reduce its stiffness but this appears to have contributed to the disintegration. Is this a common issue? What are others doing? Attached are a couple of pics, one from an unrestored BN4 showing a much smaller D hole, the other is of the repro part. I'm thinking of remaking the base with the smaller D hole to try and stop the prolapse. Andy. _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Wed Jan 11 20:26:32 2017 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=) Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2017 19:26:32 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?belleville_washers?= when i rebuilt my steering gear in the bj8 i remember they were stacked one on top of the other facing down. that is how i put them back. hope i did it correctly. From austinhealeyslist at gmail.com Wed Jan 11 21:40:54 2017 From: austinhealeyslist at gmail.com (Austin Healeys List) Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2017 17:40:54 +1300 Subject: [Healeys] 10-32 thin nuts References: <20170112002634.4264020.32086.6605@gmail.com> Thanks everyone for the suggestions. So far I still haven't found them, the small pattern nuts are all 7/64 thick instead of 1/8. There are 1/8 thick nuts but they are either 3/8 or 11/32 wrench. I guess that size doesn't exist anymore. Andy. On 1/12/17, Roland Wilhelmy wrote: > They are called Small Pattern Nuts. Available at many sources. I use > McMaster-Carr. > -Roland From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Jan 11 21:52:44 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2017 20:52:44 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] belleville washers References: <20170112032632.26271.qmail@server278.com> The consensus--here and on the forum--is that they should be stacked 'back-to-back;' like ()()() Makes sense to me; although )()()( would probably work as well. Apparently, they are to act somewhat like a spring. Bob On 1/11/2017 7:26 PM, healeymanjim wrote: > when i rebuilt my steering gear in the bj8 i remember they were stacked one on top of the other facing down. that is how i > put them back. hope i did it correctly. > _______________________________________________ > > > From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Jan 12 08:56:11 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2017 07:56:11 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] belleville washers References: <20170112032632.26271.qmail@server278.com> Curious--to me--that, according to the Moss catalog--early steering boxes (BN1/early BN2) and later boxes (late BN4/6-BJ8) had a mechanism so that the peg could rotate. The early boxes used ball bearings, and the later boxes used roller bearings but the 'mid' box pegs were pressed in. The early and late box pegs were also spring-loaded; but the mid boxes had pegs fixed in place. Presumably, the rotate-able pegs would last longer--as would the worm (cam)--and might have better steering feel. The belleville washer setup was probably cheaper, but seems like a half-arsed solution to me. On 1/11/2017 8:52 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > The consensus--here and on the forum--is that they should be stacked > 'back-to-back;' like ()()() > > Makes sense to me; although )()()( would probably work as well. > Apparently, they are to act somewhat like a spring. > > Bob > > > > From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Jan 12 10:04:34 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2017 09:04:34 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box References: <5c4d20a5-d2ec-b119-8b67-e3a3923683eb@comcast.net> <001501d26b8e$fc7f3990$f57dacb0$@hunterbane.com> Well, I went ahead and ordered from Moss. I did a cursory check of the interwebs didn't turn up anything of those dimensions here: https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-washers/=15uvd84 and here: http://www.keybellevilles.com/bellevilles/sampleCatalog.php?gclid=CMCHjPHOuNECFQGRfgodVAoFuA and others, and I need to get this car back together before I start losing the little bits. FWIW, SC Parts and AH Spares have them at a more reasonable price--esp. with the current exchange rate--but with VAT and shipping it's not a massive savings. My thanks to Olin, Bob and others who responded; if I come across these in this size I'll make a note for future reference. Now, at least, I know what they're for and how to stack them. Bob On 1/10/2017 2:14 PM, Olin Brimberry wrote: > Bob, > > I figured height of the spring was also important, so I put 2 together and measured the height with calipers > Height of 2 washers: 0.100 inches > Height of 1 washer: 0.050 inches > Thickness of washer: 0.025 inches > Checking the previous diameter dimensions with a caliper, I get: > > ID: 1.057 inches > OD: 1.5 inches > > I suspect that the ID is originally spec'd to be 1-1/16" but because of the slight "spring", the diameter is slightly less. Good luck > > Olin K. Brimberry, PE > Principal Engineer > obrimberry at hunterbane.com > Office - 919.803.4274 > Mobile - 919.522.1608 > > HunterBane Engineering, PLLC > PO Box 10314 > Raleigh, NC 27605 > 3306 Alamance Drive > Raleigh, NC 27609 > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Olin Brimberry [mailto:obrimberry at hunterbane.com] > Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2017 4:34 PM > To: 'Bob Spidell'; 'Healeys' > Subject: RE: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box > > I just pulled mine out of a steering box I am rebuilding, and yes there are 6 positioned as such: ()()() Where only the outer edges touch. The dimensions are as follows: > > ID: 1-1/16 > OD: 1-1/2 > Pictures of the measurements are attached for verification purposes. > > The washers were loose on the shaft, but I think the closer tolerance is going to be on the OD side. > > Olin K. Brimberry, PE > Principal Engineer > obrimberry at hunterbane.com > Office - 919.803.4274 > Mobile - 919.522.1608 > > HunterBane Engineering, PLLC > PO Box 10314 > Raleigh, NC 27605 > 3306 Alamance Drive > Raleigh, NC 27609 > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at gmail.com Thu Jan 12 10:06:11 2017 From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock) Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2017 09:06:11 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] belleville washers References: <20170112032632.26271.qmail@server278.com> <7855ea0a-ed80-053b-cc95-7b24c9ea613a@comcast.net> All the Healey's from the BN2 thru the BJ8 have the Belleville washers in the steering box. They are installed in an alternate fashion to create a spring effect on the steering rocker shaft. The steering pegs changed from a fixed peg to a rotating peg when the box went to an aluminium box. I would assume to make a little smoother steering box. David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 209 948 8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2017 7:56 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] belleville washers Curious--to me--that, according to the Moss catalog--early steering boxes (BN1/early BN2) and later boxes (late BN4/6-BJ8) had a mechanism so that the peg could rotate. The early boxes used ball bearings, and the later boxes used roller bearings but the 'mid' box pegs were pressed in. The early and late box pegs were also spring-loaded; but the mid boxes had pegs fixed in place. Presumably, the rotate-able pegs would last longer--as would the worm (cam)--and might have better steering feel. The belleville washer setup was probably cheaper, but seems like a half-arsed solution to me. On 1/11/2017 8:52 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > The consensus--here and on the forum--is that they should be stacked > 'back-to-back;' like ()()() > > Makes sense to me; although )()()( would probably work as well. > Apparently, they are to act somewhat like a spring. > > Bob > > > > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Jan 12 10:18:49 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2017 09:18:49 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] belleville washers References: <20170112032632.26271.qmail@server278.com> <7855ea0a-ed80-053b-cc95-7b24c9ea613a@comcast.net> Right you are, David (as usual). The drawing shows them off to the side of the rocker, not on it like the late BN2 box, and I missed it. I wonder what the story is; were the rotatable, spring-loaded pegs or belleville washers alone not sufficient, so they went to both in the later boxes ('belt-and-suspenders')? On 1/12/2017 9:06 AM, David Nock wrote: > All the Healey's from the BN2 thru the BJ8 have the Belleville washers > in the steering box. They are installed in an alternate fashion to > create a spring effect on the steering rocker shaft. > > The steering pegs changed from a fixed peg to a rotating peg when the > box went to an aluminium box. I would assume to make a little smoother > steering box. > > > > David Nock > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > 209 948 8767 > www.britishcarspecialists.com > > > -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell > Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2017 7:56 AM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] belleville washers > > Curious--to me--that, according to the Moss catalog--early steering > boxes (BN1/early BN2) and later boxes (late BN4/6-BJ8) had a mechanism > so that the peg could rotate. The early boxes used ball bearings, and > the later boxes used roller bearings but the 'mid' box pegs were pressed > in. The early and late box pegs were also spring-loaded; but the mid > boxes had pegs fixed in place. Presumably, the rotate-able pegs would > last longer--as would the worm (cam)--and might have better steering > feel. The belleville washer setup was probably cheaper, but seems like > a half-arsed solution to me. > > > > > From bighealey3k at aim.com Thu Jan 12 12:21:58 2017 From: bighealey3k at aim.com (Larry Wendland) Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2017 14:21:58 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of washers... References: <1006366135.106161.1484031242439.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1006366135.106161.1484031242439@mail.yahoo.com> Mike, Google "star washer" and you will get all kinds of examples of a "shakeproof" washer. I've always called them star washers. Hope this helps. Larry '67 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: Michael MacLean To: Healeys Help Sent: Tue, Jan 10, 2017 4:01 am Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of washers... Where do you get the "shakeproof" washer that goes under the steering wheel nut?? Not available from the usual suspects. Mike MacLean _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From bighealey3k at aim.com Thu Jan 12 12:48:34 2017 From: bighealey3k at aim.com (Larry Wendland) Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2017 14:48:34 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of washers... Mike, I also found this linke to McMaster-Carr that shows the "shakeproof" washer a "tooth lock" washer and they show just about anything you want to know about washers. Larry '67 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: Larry Wendland To: rrengineer.mike ; healeys Sent: Thu, Jan 12, 2017 2:21 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Speaking of washers... Mike, Google "star washer" and you will get all kinds of examples of a "shakeproof" washer. I've always called them star washers. Hope this helps. Larry '67 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: Michael MacLean To: Healeys Help Sent: Tue, Jan 10, 2017 4:01 am Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of washers... Where do you get the "shakeproof" washer that goes under the steering wheel nut?? Not available from the usual suspects. Mike MacLean _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From bighealey3k at aim.com Thu Jan 12 12:50:24 2017 From: bighealey3k at aim.com (Larry Wendland) Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2017 14:50:24 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of washers... Mike, I forgot to include the link. Here it is. https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-washers/=15uvd84 -----Original Message----- From: Larry Wendland To: bighealey3k ; rrengineer.mike ; healeys Sent: Thu, Jan 12, 2017 2:48 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Speaking of washers... Mike, I also found this linke to McMaster-Carr that shows the "shakeproof" washer a "tooth lock" washer and they show just about anything you want to know about washers. Larry '67 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: Larry Wendland To: rrengineer.mike ; healeys Sent: Thu, Jan 12, 2017 2:21 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Speaking of washers... Mike, Google "star washer" and you will get all kinds of examples of a "shakeproof" washer. I've always called them star washers. Hope this helps. Larry '67 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: Michael MacLean To: Healeys Help Sent: Tue, Jan 10, 2017 4:01 am Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of washers... Where do you get the "shakeproof" washer that goes under the steering wheel nut?? Not available from the usual suspects. Mike MacLean _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From rrengineer.mike at att.net Thu Jan 12 13:37:45 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2017 20:37:45 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box References: <5c4d20a5-d2ec-b119-8b67-e3a3923683eb@comcast.net> <001501d26b8e$fc7f3990$f57dacb0$@hunterbane.com> <3bcd1b68-3f2d-077b-07a7-1501c1ea4f7d@comcast.net> I don't believe you have to pay the Value Added Tax unless you live in the UK.Mike MacLean On Thursday, January 12, 2017 9:29 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: Well, I went ahead and ordered from Moss.? I did a cursory check of the interwebs didn't turn up anything of those dimensions here: https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-washers/=15uvd84 and here: http://www.keybellevilles.com/bellevilles/sampleCatalog.php?gclid=CMCHjPHOuNECFQGRfgodVAoFuA and others, and I need to get this car back together before I start losing the little bits.?? FWIW, SC Parts and AH Spares have them at a more reasonable price--esp. with the current exchange rate--but with VAT and shipping it's not a massive savings. My thanks to Olin, Bob and others who responded; if I come across these in this size I'll make a note for future reference.? Now, at least, I know what they're for and how to stack them. Bob On 1/10/2017 2:14 PM, Olin Brimberry wrote: Bob, I figured height of the spring was also important, so I put 2 together and measured the height with calipers Height of 2 washers: 0.100 inches Height of 1 washer: 0.050 inches Thickness of washer: 0.025 inches Checking the previous diameter dimensions with a caliper, I get: ID: 1.057 inches OD: 1.5 inches I suspect that the ID is originally spec'd to be 1-1/16" but because of the slight "spring", the diameter is slightly less. Good luck Olin K. Brimberry, PE Principal Engineer obrimberry at hunterbane.com Office - 919.803.4274 Mobile - 919.522.1608 HunterBane Engineering, PLLC PO Box 10314 Raleigh, NC 27605 3306 Alamance Drive Raleigh, NC 27609 -----Original Message----- From: Olin Brimberry [mailto:obrimberry at hunterbane.com] Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2017 4:34 PM To: 'Bob Spidell' ; 'Healeys' Subject: RE: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box I just pulled mine out of a steering box I am rebuilding, and yes there are 6 positioned as such: ()()() Where only the outer edges touch. The dimensions are as follows: ID: 1-1/16 OD: 1-1/2 Pictures of the measurements are attached for verification purposes. The washers were loose on the shaft, but I think the closer tolerance is going to be on the OD side. Olin K. Brimberry, PE Principal Engineer obrimberry at hunterbane.com Office - 919.803.4274 Mobile - 919.522.1608 HunterBane Engineering, PLLC PO Box 10314 Raleigh, NC 27605 3306 Alamance Drive Raleigh, NC 27609 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gablegerry at netscape.net Thu Jan 12 19:23:52 2017 From: gablegerry at netscape.net (gablegerry at netscape.net) Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2017 21:23:52 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] wire harness References: Looking for an point of view. should one replace the wire harness that is braided or try to follow the original that appears to be PVC and banded together with black rap. The original is not that bad but again not that good. thanks can some who is on the MGT list know how to get on it? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Thu Jan 12 21:40:50 2017 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Fri, 13 Jan 2017 04:40:50 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box References: <5c4d20a5-d2ec-b119-8b67-e3a3923683eb@comcast.net> <001501d26b8e$fc7f3990$f57dacb0$@hunterbane.com> <3bcd1b68-3f2d-077b-07a7-1501c1ea4f7d@comcast.net>, <466283033.2041910.1484253465615@mail.yahoo.com> That's correct, you only pay VAT if you live in the UK. Jean ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Michael MacLean Sent: January 12, 2017 8:37 PM To: Bob Spidell; Olin Brimberry; 'Healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box I don't believe you have to pay the Value Added Tax unless you live in the UK. Mike MacLean On Thursday, January 12, 2017 9:29 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: Well, I went ahead and ordered from Moss. I did a cursory check of the interwebs didn't turn up anything of those dimensions here: https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-washers/=15uvd84 [https://images1.mcmaster.com/mvA/gfx/mcm_logo_hires.png?ver=1452869604] McMaster-Carr www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr supplies products used to maintain manufacturing plants and large commercial facilities worldwide. and here: http://www.keybellevilles.com/bellevilles/sampleCatalog.php?gclid=CMCHjPHOuNECFQGRfgodVAoFuA Belleville Washer Catalog www.keybellevilles.com The catalog reflects 800 of our 10,000 finished parts in stock. Contact us to see if your part is a stock item. CATALOG SEARCH and others, and I need to get this car back together before I start losing the little bits. FWIW, SC Parts and AH Spares have them at a more reasonable price--esp. with the current exchange rate--but with VAT and shipping it's not a massive savings. My thanks to Olin, Bob and others who responded; if I come across these in this size I'll make a note for future reference. Now, at least, I know what they're for and how to stack them. Bob On 1/10/2017 2:14 PM, Olin Brimberry wrote: Bob, I figured height of the spring was also important, so I put 2 together and measured the height with calipers Height of 2 washers: 0.100 inches Height of 1 washer: 0.050 inches Thickness of washer: 0.025 inches Checking the previous diameter dimensions with a caliper, I get: ID: 1.057 inches OD: 1.5 inches I suspect that the ID is originally spec'd to be 1-1/16" but because of the slight "spring", the diameter is slightly less. Good luck Olin K. Brimberry, PE Principal Engineer Office - 919.803.4274 Mobile - 919.522.1608 HunterBane Engineering, PLLC PO Box 10314 Raleigh, NC 27605 3306 Alamance Drive Raleigh, NC 27609 -----Original Message----- From: Olin Brimberry [mailto:obrimberry at hunterbane.com] Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2017 4:34 PM Subject: RE: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box I just pulled mine out of a steering box I am rebuilding, and yes there are 6 positioned as such: ()()() Where only the outer edges touch. The dimensions are as follows: ID: 1-1/16 OD: 1-1/2 Pictures of the measurements are attached for verification purposes. The washers were loose on the shaft, but I think the closer tolerance is going to be on the OD side. Olin K. Brimberry, PE Principal Engineer Office - 919.803.4274 Mobile - 919.522.1608 HunterBane Engineering, PLLC PO Box 10314 Raleigh, NC 27605 3306 Alamance Drive Raleigh, NC 27609 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Jan 12 22:37:18 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2017 21:37:18 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box References: <5c4d20a5-d2ec-b119-8b67-e3a3923683eb@comcast.net> <001501d26b8e$fc7f3990$f57dacb0$@hunterbane.com> <3bcd1b68-3f2d-077b-07a7-1501c1ea4f7d@comcast.net> <466283033.2041910.1484253465615@mail.yahoo.com> Cool. I'm a Californian, so if there's a tax I assumed I have to pay it. On 1/12/2017 8:40 PM, Jean Caron wrote: > > That's correct, you only pay VAT if you live in the UK. > > > Jean > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys on behalf of Michael > MacLean > *Sent:* January 12, 2017 8:37 PM > *To:* Bob Spidell; Olin Brimberry; 'Healeys' > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box > I don't believe you have to pay the Value Added Tax unless you live in > the UK. > Mike MacLean > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From neilandcustom at gmail.com Fri Jan 13 08:27:02 2017 From: neilandcustom at gmail.com (Neil Anderson) Date: Fri, 13 Jan 2017 09:27:02 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box References: <5c4d20a5-d2ec-b119-8b67-e3a3923683eb@comcast.net> <001501d26b8e$fc7f3990$f57dacb0$@hunterbane.com> <3bcd1b68-3f2d-077b-07a7-1501c1ea4f7d@comcast.net> Bob, FWIW, there would be no VAT on export orders from the UK, but shipping is getting really expensive. Neil Anderson BT7 On Thu, Jan 12, 2017 at 11:04 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > Well, I went ahead and ordered from Moss. I did a cursory check of the > interwebs didn't turn up anything of those dimensions here: > > https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-washers/=15uvd84 > > and here: > > http://www.keybellevilles.com/bellevilles/sampleCatalog.php?gclid= > CMCHjPHOuNECFQGRfgodVAoFuA > > and others, and I need to get this car back together before I start losing > the little bits. FWIW, SC Parts and AH Spares have them at a more > reasonable price--esp. with the current exchange rate--but with VAT and > shipping it's not a massive savings. > > My thanks to Olin, Bob and others who responded; if I come across these in > this size I'll make a note for future reference. Now, at least, I know > what they're for and how to stack them. > > Bob > > On 1/10/2017 2:14 PM, Olin Brimberry wrote: > > Bob, > > I figured height of the spring was also important, so I put 2 together and measured the height with calipers > Height of 2 washers: 0.100 inches > Height of 1 washer: 0.050 inches > Thickness of washer: 0.025 inches > Checking the previous diameter dimensions with a caliper, I get: > > ID: 1.057 inches > OD: 1.5 inches > > I suspect that the ID is originally spec'd to be 1-1/16" but because of the slight "spring", the diameter is slightly less. Good luck > > Olin K. Brimberry, PE > Principal Engineerobrimberry at hunterbane.com > Office - 919.803.4274 <(919)%20803-4274> > Mobile - 919.522.1608 <(919)%20522-1608> > > HunterBane Engineering, PLLC > PO Box 10314 > Raleigh, NC 27605 > 3306 Alamance Drive > Raleigh, NC 27609 > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Olin Brimberry [mailto:obrimberry at hunterbane.com ] > Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2017 4:34 PM > To: 'Bob Spidell' ; 'Healeys' > Subject: RE: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box > > I just pulled mine out of a steering box I am rebuilding, and yes there are 6 positioned as such: ()()() Where only the outer edges touch. The dimensions are as follows: > > ID: 1-1/16 > OD: 1-1/2 > Pictures of the measurements are attached for verification purposes. > > The washers were loose on the shaft, but I think the closer tolerance is going to be on the OD side. > > Olin K. Brimberry, PE > Principal Engineerobrimberry at hunterbane.com > Office - 919.803.4274 <(919)%20803-4274> > Mobile - 919.522.1608 <(919)%20522-1608> > > HunterBane Engineering, PLLC > PO Box 10314 > Raleigh, NC 27605 > 3306 Alamance Drive > Raleigh, NC 27609 > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/neilandcustom at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Jan 13 09:03:44 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Fri, 13 Jan 2017 17:03:44 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box References: <5c4d20a5-d2ec-b119-8b67-e3a3923683eb@comcast.net> <001501d26b8e$fc7f3990$f57dacb0$@hunterbane.com> <3bcd1b68-3f2d-077b-07a7-1501c1ea4f7d@comcast.net> Not for a few washers popped in a sturdy envelope as regular unregistered mail! Kees Oudesluijs Op 13-1-2017 om 16:27 schreef Neil Anderson: > Bob, > > FWIW, there would be no VAT on export orders from the UK, but shipping > is getting really expensive. > > Neil Anderson > BT7 > > On Thu, Jan 12, 2017 at 11:04 AM, Bob Spidell > Well, I went ahead and ordered from Moss. I did a cursory check > of the interwebs didn't turn up anything of those dimensions here: > > https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-washers/=15uvd84 > > > and here: > > http://www.keybellevilles.com/bellevilles/sampleCatalog.php?gclid=CMCHjPHOuNECFQGRfgodVAoFuA > > > and others, and I need to get this car back together before I > start losing the little bits. FWIW, SC Parts and AH Spares have > them at a more reasonable price--esp. with the current exchange > rate--but with VAT and shipping it's not a massive savings. > > My thanks to Olin, Bob and others who responded; if I come across > these in this size I'll make a note for future reference. Now, at > least, I know what they're for and how to stack them. > > Bob > > > On 1/10/2017 2:14 PM, Olin Brimberry wrote: >> Bob, >> >> I figured height of the spring was also important, so I put 2 together and measured the height with calipers >> Height of 2 washers: 0.100 inches >> Height of 1 washer: 0.050 inches >> Thickness of washer: 0.025 inches >> Checking the previous diameter dimensions with a caliper, I get: >> >> ID: 1.057 inches >> OD: 1.5 inches >> >> I suspect that the ID is originally spec'd to be 1-1/16" but because of the slight "spring", the diameter is slightly less. Good luck >> >> Olin K. Brimberry, PE >> Principal Engineer >> Office -919.803.4274 >> Mobile -919.522.1608 >> >> HunterBane Engineering, PLLC >> PO Box 10314 >> Raleigh, NC 27605 >> 3306 Alamance Drive >> Raleigh, NC 27609 >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2017 4:34 PM >> Subject: RE: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box >> >> I just pulled mine out of a steering box I am rebuilding, and yes there are 6 positioned as such: ()()() Where only the outer edges touch. The dimensions are as follows: >> >> ID: 1-1/16 >> OD: 1-1/2 >> Pictures of the measurements are attached for verification purposes. >> >> The washers were loose on the shaft, but I think the closer tolerance is going to be on the OD side. >> >> Olin K. Brimberry, PE >> Principal Engineer >> Office -919.803.4274 >> Mobile -919.522.1608 >> >> HunterBane Engineering, PLLC >> PO Box 10314 >> Raleigh, NC 27605 >> 3306 Alamance Drive >> Raleigh, NC 27609 >> >> >> > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net > http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: > http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/neilandcustom at gmail.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From frogeye at porterscustom.com Fri Jan 13 09:29:12 2017 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Fri, 13 Jan 2017 09:29:12 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box References: <5c4d20a5-d2ec-b119-8b67-e3a3923683eb@comcast.net> <001501d26b8e$fc7f3990$f57dacb0$@hunterbane.com> <3bcd1b68-3f2d-077b-07a7-1501c1ea4f7d@comcast.net> <74232496-16d2-67f7-a97e-a595c7ecfda5@chello.nl> http://www.bokers.com/washers.asp?gclid=CjwKEAiAkuLDBRCRguCgvITww0YSJAAHrpf-bGE1LEP4rw6GNnk--UMElG2XTfvvzeDD4TOZDFPI6RoC0Jfw_wcB Just so you all know... On 1/13/2017 9:03 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > Not for a few washers popped in a sturdy envelope as regular > unregistered mail! > Kees Oudesluijs > > > Op 13-1-2017 om 16:27 schreef Neil Anderson: >> Bob, >> >> FWIW, there would be no VAT on export orders from the UK, but >> shipping is getting really expensive. >> >> Neil Anderson >> BT7 >> >> On Thu, Jan 12, 2017 at 11:04 AM, Bob Spidell > >> Well, I went ahead and ordered from Moss. I did a cursory check >> of the interwebs didn't turn up anything of those dimensions here: >> >> https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-washers/=15uvd84 >> >> >> and here: >> >> http://www.keybellevilles.com/bellevilles/sampleCatalog.php?gclid=CMCHjPHOuNECFQGRfgodVAoFuA >> >> >> and others, and I need to get this car back together before I >> start losing the little bits. FWIW, SC Parts and AH Spares have >> them at a more reasonable price--esp. with the current exchange >> rate--but with VAT and shipping it's not a massive savings. >> >> My thanks to Olin, Bob and others who responded; if I come across >> these in this size I'll make a note for future reference. Now, >> at least, I know what they're for and how to stack them. >> >> Bob >> >> >> On 1/10/2017 2:14 PM, Olin Brimberry wrote: >>> Bob, >>> >>> I figured height of the spring was also important, so I put 2 together and measured the height with calipers >>> Height of 2 washers: 0.100 inches >>> Height of 1 washer: 0.050 inches >>> Thickness of washer: 0.025 inches >>> Checking the previous diameter dimensions with a caliper, I get: >>> >>> ID: 1.057 inches >>> OD: 1.5 inches >>> >>> I suspect that the ID is originally spec'd to be 1-1/16" but because of the slight "spring", the diameter is slightly less. Good luck >>> >>> Olin K. Brimberry, PE >>> Principal Engineer >>> Office -919.803.4274 >>> Mobile -919.522.1608 >>> >>> HunterBane Engineering, PLLC >>> PO Box 10314 >>> Raleigh, NC 27605 >>> 3306 Alamance Drive >>> Raleigh, NC 27609 >>> >>> >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2017 4:34 PM >>> Subject: RE: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box >>> >>> I just pulled mine out of a steering box I am rebuilding, and yes there are 6 positioned as such: ()()() Where only the outer edges touch. The dimensions are as follows: >>> >>> ID: 1-1/16 >>> OD: 1-1/2 >>> Pictures of the measurements are attached for verification purposes. >>> >>> The washers were loose on the shaft, but I think the closer tolerance is going to be on the OD side. >>> >>> Olin K. Brimberry, PE >>> Principal Engineer >>> Office -919.803.4274 >>> Mobile -919.522.1608 >>> >>> HunterBane Engineering, PLLC >>> PO Box 10314 >>> Raleigh, NC 27605 >>> 3306 Alamance Drive >>> Raleigh, NC 27609 >>> >>> >>> >> _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net >> http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: >> http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/neilandcustom at gmail.com >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive:http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums:http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com > -- Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Fri Jan 13 11:49:05 2017 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Fri, 13 Jan 2017 13:49:05 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] wire harness References: <15995a36a7f-2b88-a87b@webprd-m25.mail.aol.com> Depends upon what you are trying to achieve. If you want to end up with a driver (20 foot) car that Aunt Mary describes as "cute" then whatever works will be just fine. If you are looking to end up with something that someone with some knowledge of classic car restoration will appreciate then replace the harness with one that closely replicates the original. You don't mention what model of Healey you are working on but originally it would have had cloth covered wire with a cloth covering on the harness (Pre Oct 58) or PVC insulated wires with a cloth harness outer cover after tht date. Michael S Concours Guidelines Committee On Thu, Jan 12, 2017 at 9:23 PM, wrote: > > Looking for an point of view. should one replace the wire harness that is > braided or try to follow the original that appears to be PVC and banded > together with black rap. The original is not that bad but again not that > good. > thanks > can some who is on the MGT list know how to get on it? > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > > -- *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Jan 13 11:58:45 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 13 Jan 2017 10:58:45 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box References: <5c4d20a5-d2ec-b119-8b67-e3a3923683eb@comcast.net> <001501d26b8e$fc7f3990$f57dacb0$@hunterbane.com> <3bcd1b68-3f2d-077b-07a7-1501c1ea4f7d@comcast.net> <74232496-16d2-67f7-a97e-a595c7ecfda5@chello.nl> <5c7491ed-83cc-6a30-5b0c-5b63837e0aa5@porterscustom.com> Looks like they only produce for companies. As fate would have it, Moss sent me 7; I can't imagine that a custom production run would be economically feasible, but if someone wants to do it I have a sample. On 1/13/2017 8:29 AM, David Porter wrote: > > http://www.bokers.com/washers.asp?gclid=CjwKEAiAkuLDBRCRguCgvITww0YSJAAHrpf-bGE1LEP4rw6GNnk--UMElG2XTfvvzeDD4TOZDFPI6RoC0Jfw_wcB > > Just so you all know... > > From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Jan 13 12:27:11 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 13 Jan 2017 11:27:11 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box References: <5c4d20a5-d2ec-b119-8b67-e3a3923683eb@comcast.net> <001501d26b8e$fc7f3990$f57dacb0$@hunterbane.com> <3bcd1b68-3f2d-077b-07a7-1501c1ea4f7d@comcast.net> I wanted to buy a luggage rack from England, They wanted 248 BPS for the rack and 125 BPS to ship. I told them to find a cheaper way to ship or I would not buy the rack. They told me too bad that was what it cost to ship. Other suppliers have been willing to find a cheaper way to ship when I asked... But no VAT applied :) Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 7:27 AM, Neil Anderson wrote: > Bob, > > FWIW, there would be no VAT on export orders from the UK, but shipping is > getting really expensive. > > Neil Anderson > BT7 > > On Thu, Jan 12, 2017 at 11:04 AM, Bob Spidell > wrote: > >> Well, I went ahead and ordered from Moss. I did a cursory check of the >> interwebs didn't turn up anything of those dimensions here: >> >> https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-washers/=15uvd84 >> >> and here: >> >> http://www.keybellevilles.com/bellevilles/sampleCatalog.php? >> gclid=CMCHjPHOuNECFQGRfgodVAoFuA >> >> and others, and I need to get this car back together before I start >> losing the little bits. FWIW, SC Parts and AH Spares have them at a more >> reasonable price--esp. with the current exchange rate--but with VAT and >> shipping it's not a massive savings. >> >> My thanks to Olin, Bob and others who responded; if I come across these >> in this size I'll make a note for future reference. Now, at least, I know >> what they're for and how to stack them. >> >> Bob >> >> On 1/10/2017 2:14 PM, Olin Brimberry wrote: >> >> Bob, >> >> I figured height of the spring was also important, so I put 2 together and measured the height with calipers >> Height of 2 washers: 0.100 inches >> Height of 1 washer: 0.050 inches >> Thickness of washer: 0.025 inches >> Checking the previous diameter dimensions with a caliper, I get: >> >> ID: 1.057 inches >> OD: 1.5 inches >> >> I suspect that the ID is originally spec'd to be 1-1/16" but because of the slight "spring", the diameter is slightly less. Good luck >> >> Olin K. Brimberry, PE >> Principal Engineerobrimberry at hunterbane.com >> Office - 919.803.4274 <(919)%20803-4274> >> Mobile - 919.522.1608 <(919)%20522-1608> >> >> HunterBane Engineering, PLLC >> PO Box 10314 >> Raleigh, NC 27605 >> 3306 Alamance Drive >> Raleigh, NC 27609 >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Olin Brimberry [mailto:obrimberry at hunterbane.com ] >> Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2017 4:34 PM >> To: 'Bob Spidell' ; 'Healeys' >> Subject: RE: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box >> >> I just pulled mine out of a steering box I am rebuilding, and yes there are 6 positioned as such: ()()() Where only the outer edges touch. The dimensions are as follows: >> >> ID: 1-1/16 >> OD: 1-1/2 >> Pictures of the measurements are attached for verification purposes. >> >> The washers were loose on the shaft, but I think the closer tolerance is going to be on the OD side. >> >> Olin K. Brimberry, PE >> Principal Engineerobrimberry at hunterbane.com >> Office - 919.803.4274 <(919)%20803-4274> >> Mobile - 919.522.1608 <(919)%20522-1608> >> >> HunterBane Engineering, PLLC >> PO Box 10314 >> Raleigh, NC 27605 >> 3306 Alamance Drive >> Raleigh, NC 27609 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/neilandcustom at gmail.com >> >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Fri Jan 13 14:39:56 2017 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Fri, 13 Jan 2017 13:39:56 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box References: <5c4d20a5-d2ec-b119-8b67-e3a3923683eb@comcast.net> <001501d26b8e$fc7f3990$f57dacb0$@hunterbane.com> <3bcd1b68-3f2d-077b-07a7-1501c1ea4f7d@comcast.net> <74232496-16d2-67f7-a97e-a595c7ecfda5@chello.nl> <5c7491ed-83cc-6a30-5b0c-5b63837e0aa5@porterscustom.com> If anyone needs a set, or even just one or two belleville washers, I have some I can sell. On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 10:58 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > Looks like they only produce for companies. As fate would have it, Moss > sent me 7; I can't imagine that a custom production run would be > economically feasible, but if someone wants to do it I have a sample. > > > On 1/13/2017 8:29 AM, David Porter wrote: > >> >> http://www.bokers.com/washers.asp?gclid=CjwKEAiAkuLDBRCRguCg >> vITww0YSJAAHrpf-bGE1LEP4rw6GNnk--UMElG2XTfvvzeDD4TOZDFPI6RoC0Jfw_wcB >> >> Just so you all know... >> >> >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From josef-eckert at t-online.de Fri Jan 13 15:16:09 2017 From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de) Date: Fri, 13 Jan 2017 23:16:09 +0100 (MET) Subject: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box References: <5c4d20a5-d2ec-b119-8b67-e3a3923683eb@comcast.net> <001501d26b8e$fc7f3990$f57dacb0$@hunterbane.com> <3bcd1b68-3f2d-077b-07a7-1501c1ea4f7d@comcast.net> I presume considerable import tax will be added very soon for all non American products. -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box Datum: 2017-01-13T23:07:04+0100 Von: "i erbs" An: "Neil Anderson" I wanted to buy a luggage rack from England, They wanted 248 BPS for the rack and 125 BPS to ship. I told them to find a cheaper way to ship or I would not buy the rack. They told me too bad that was what it cost to ship. Other suppliers have been willing to find a cheaper way to ship when I asked... But no VAT applied :) Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 7:27 AM, Neil Anderson and here: http://www.keybellevilles.com/bellevilles/sampleCatalog.php? gclid=CMCHjPHOuNECFQGRfgodVAoFuA and others, and I need to get this car back together before I start losing the little bits. FWIW, SC Parts and AH Spares have them at a more reasonable price--esp. with the current exchange rate--but with VAT and shipping it's not a massive savings. My thanks to Olin, Bob and others who responded; if I come across these in this size I'll make a note for future reference. Now, at least, I know what they're for and how to stack them. Bob On 1/10/2017 2:14 PM, Olin Brimberry wrote: Bob, I figured height of the spring was also important, so I put 2 together and measured the height with calipers Height of 2 washers: 0.100 inches Height of 1 washer: 0.050 inches Thickness of washer: 0.025 inches Checking the previous diameter dimensions with a caliper, I get: ID: 1.057 inches OD: 1.5 inches I suspect that the ID is originally spec'd to be 1-1/16" but because of the slight "spring", the diameter is slightly less. Good luck Olin K. Brimberry, PE Principal Engineer obrimberry at hunterbane.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ options/healeys/neilandcustom at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dcorning at ford.com Fri Jan 13 15:44:10 2017 From: dcorning at ford.com (Corning, Dan (D.C.)) Date: Fri, 13 Jan 2017 22:44:10 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] A Different Harness Question (Routing) I purchased the correct harness for my 62 BT7 Tri-Carb. I also purchased Prospero's wiring diagram for the car. Question: Does anyone have any references regarding the proper harness routing for the car? I'm trying to position the harness as close to the original location and attachment points as I can but the only references I have are what I can find in catalogs and internet photos. Best, Dan Corning -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Jan 13 16:29:17 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 13 Jan 2017 23:29:17 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] wire harness References: <15995a36a7f-2b88-a87b@webprd-m25.mail.aol.com> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From 050.rpl at gmail.com Fri Jan 13 21:32:13 2017 From: 050.rpl at gmail.com (R. Lindsay) Date: Fri, 13 Jan 2017 23:32:13 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Head Bolts I have removed the left rear head bolt to replace the vacuum hose from the dizzy to the carbs (don?t ask). When I unscrewed the nut/bolt, the entire bolt came out ( the nut did not come loose). Now I need to put it all back. Should I break the nut from the head bolt and put them back in individually, or just put it back in as a single unit? Also, I believe the torque on the bolt/nut is 70 foot pounds: can someone confirm this. Thank you so much!! Price Lindsay 67 BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Sat Jan 14 03:44:48 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2017 10:44:48 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box References: <5c4d20a5-d2ec-b119-8b67-e3a3923683eb@comcast.net> <001501d26b8e$fc7f3990$f57dacb0$@hunterbane.com> <3bcd1b68-3f2d-077b-07a7-1501c1ea4f7d@comcast.net> Hi, Try someone like this:- https://www.parcel2go.com/ ie make your own shipping arrangements via a courier of your own choosing. I use people off this site quite often when I think I?m about to be ripped off on P&P. I just got a quote for a spoof package: 500mmH X 300mmL X 200mmH at 9kilo. Pick up UK, delivered USA, including ?Protection?(?). 4 days+ ETA. ?120:00 delivery to the US at a ?Take it or Leave it; we really don?t give a stuff? rate is appalling. Unless it includes a huge amount of import dues. But I imagine that those iniquities are handled separately in the US, just like they are here? Simon From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of i erbs Sent: 13 January 2017 19:27 To: Neil Anderson Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box I wanted to buy a luggage rack from England, They wanted 248 BPS for the rack and 125 BPS to ship. I told them to find a cheaper way to ship or I would not buy the rack. They told me too bad that was what it cost to ship. Other suppliers have been willing to find a cheaper way to ship when I asked... But no VAT applied :) Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 7:27 AM, Neil Anderson wrote: Bob, FWIW, there would be no VAT on export orders from the UK, but shipping is getting really expensive. Neil Anderson BT7 On Thu, Jan 12, 2017 at 11:04 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: Well, I went ahead and ordered from Moss. I did a cursory check of the interwebs didn't turn up anything of those dimensions here: https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-washers/=15uvd84 and here: http://www.keybellevilles.com/bellevilles/sampleCatalog.php?gclid=CMCHjPHOuNECFQGRfgodVAoFuA and others, and I need to get this car back together before I start losing the little bits. FWIW, SC Parts and AH Spares have them at a more reasonable price--esp. with the current exchange rate--but with VAT and shipping it's not a massive savings. My thanks to Olin, Bob and others who responded; if I come across these in this size I'll make a note for future reference. Now, at least, I know what they're for and how to stack them. Bob On 1/10/2017 2:14 PM, Olin Brimberry wrote: Bob, I figured height of the spring was also important, so I put 2 together and measured the height with calipers Height of 2 washers: 0.100 inches Height of 1 washer: 0.050 inches Thickness of washer: 0.025 inches Checking the previous diameter dimensions with a caliper, I get: ID: 1.057 inches OD: 1.5 inches I suspect that the ID is originally spec'd to be 1-1/16" but because of the slight "spring", the diameter is slightly less. Good luck Olin K. Brimberry, PE Principal Engineer obrimberry at hunterbane.com Office - 919.803.4274 Mobile - 919.522.1608 HunterBane Engineering, PLLC PO Box 10314 Raleigh, NC 27605 3306 Alamance Drive Raleigh, NC 27609 -----Original Message----- From: Olin Brimberry [mailto:obrimberry at hunterbane.com] Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2017 4:34 PM Subject: RE: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box I just pulled mine out of a steering box I am rebuilding, and yes there are 6 positioned as such: ()()() Where only the outer edges touch. The dimensions are as follows: ID: 1-1/16 OD: 1-1/2 Pictures of the measurements are attached for verification purposes. The washers were loose on the shaft, but I think the closer tolerance is going to be on the OD side. Olin K. Brimberry, PE Principal Engineer obrimberry at hunterbane.com Office - 919.803.4274 Mobile - 919.522.1608 HunterBane Engineering, PLLC PO Box 10314 Raleigh, NC 27605 3306 Alamance Drive Raleigh, NC 27609 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ahbn6 at verizon.net Sat Jan 14 05:15:46 2017 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2017 07:15:46 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] FW: BN4 - 100/6 front suspension References: <003001d26df7$b3795a30$1a6c0e90$@bigpond.net.au> Can one of you help this person with his problem? Thanks John Sims From: Les Mathieson [mailto:mathlynn at bigpond.net.au] Sent: Friday, January 13, 2017 6:50 PM To: john at healey6.com Subject: BN4 - 100/6 front suspension Hi John, My name is Les Mathieson, from Paynesville in Australia, I own an 100/6, pictured. You have a great site, just wondering if you could give me some advice. My car has a ride height in the front, basically the right hand side of the body is about 50mm or 2 inches lower than the right hand side. We have checked most things and nothing was apparent. Therefore we suspected one of the Coil springs in the front are the issue. I have them out & we sent them to a pretty reputable spring maker for testing etc before we bought a new set. Unfortunately the tests showed they were both ok? We are waiting for them to be returned to re-assemble & look for other causes of the issue. Do you have any clues, insights or comments that might assist? Thanks Les Les Mathieson 4 Araluen Court (PO Box 142) Paynesville VIC 3880 0418106725 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0634.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 1445398 bytes Desc: not available URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat Jan 14 07:21:16 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2017 15:21:16 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] FW: BN4 - 100/6 front suspension References: <003001d26df7$b3795a30$1a6c0e90$@bigpond.net.au> <002901d26e5f$efb87f40$cf297dc0$@verizon.net> Either the frame is twisted or weak because of rust/cracks if there is a difference in ride height left/right in the front but not at the rear. However if the front springs are OK and there is the same difference in ride hight left/right both in front and rear, it is most likely a broken/tired/faulty rear leaf spring. Another possibility may be a stuck shock absorber but that would be very uncommon. Also check front upper and lower suspension parts for damage. Kees Oudesluijs Op 14-1-2017 om 13:15 schreef John Sims: > > Can one of you help this person with his problem? Thanks > > John Sims > > *From:*Les Mathieson [mailto:mathlynn at bigpond.net.au] > *Sent:* Friday, January 13, 2017 6:50 PM > *Subject:* BN4 - 100/6 front suspension > > Hi John, > > My name is Les Mathieson, from Paynesville in Australia, > > I own an 100/6, pictured. > > You have a great site, just wondering if you could give me some advice. > > My car has a ride height in the front, basically the right hand side > of the body is about 50mm or 2 inches lower than the right hand side. > > We have checked most things and nothing was apparent. > > Therefore we suspected one of the Coil springs in the front are the > issue. I have them out & we sent them to a pretty reputable spring > maker for testing etc before we bought a new set. > > Unfortunately the tests showed they were both ok? > > We are waiting for them to be returned to re-assemble & look for other > causes of the issue. > > Do you have any clues, insights or comments that might assist? > > Thanks > > Les > > Les Mathieson > > 4 Araluen Court > > (PO Box 142) > > Paynesville > > VIC 3880 > > 0418106725 > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Sat Jan 14 07:21:05 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2017 09:21:05 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] FW: BN4 - 100/6 front suspension References: <003001d26df7$b3795a30$1a6c0e90$@bigpond.net.au> <002901d26e5f$efb87f40$cf297dc0$@verizon.net> Jon & Les, Installed height of the springs the same? Were the front A arm inboard mounting bolts tightened with the car sitting flat on the ground (normal ride height)? How's the back of the car? It's not pitching the right front nose downward, right? Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 01/14/2017 07:15 AM, John Sims wrote: > Can one of you help this person with his problem? Thanks > > John Sims > > *From:*Les Mathieson [mailto:mathlynn at bigpond.net.au] > *Sent:* Friday, January 13, 2017 6:50 PM > *Subject:* BN4 - 100/6 front suspension > > Hi John, > > My name is Les Mathieson, from Paynesville in Australia, > > I own an 100/6, pictured. > > You have a great site, just wondering if you could give me some advice. > > My car has a ride height in the front, basically the right hand side of > the body is about 50mm or 2 inches lower than the right hand side. > > We have checked most things and nothing was apparent. > > Therefore we suspected one of the Coil springs in the front are the > issue. I have them out & we sent them to a pretty reputable spring maker > for testing etc before we bought a new set. > > Unfortunately the tests showed they were both ok? > > We are waiting for them to be returned to re-assemble & look for other > causes of the issue. > > Do you have any clues, insights or comments that might assist? > > Thanks > > Les > > Les Mathieson > > 4 Araluen Court > > (PO Box 142) > > Paynesville > > VIC 3880 > > 0418106725 > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From frogeye at porterscustom.com Sat Jan 14 07:46:31 2017 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2017 07:46:31 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] FW: BN4 - 100/6 front suspension References: <003001d26df7$b3795a30$1a6c0e90$@bigpond.net.au> <002901d26e5f$efb87f40$cf297dc0$@verizon.net> <4bbf12f8-ed31-c3ee-19cc-f3078c20d34e@chello.nl> ..in addition, a failure of the rear suspension will also manifest in the front ride height. Dave On 1/14/2017 7:21 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > Either the frame is twisted or weak because of rust/cracks if there is > a difference in ride height left/right in the front but not at the rear. > However if the front springs are OK and there is the same difference > in ride hight left/right both in front and rear, it is most likely a > broken/tired/faulty rear leaf spring. > Another possibility may be a stuck shock absorber but that would be > very uncommon. Also check front upper and lower suspension parts for > damage. > Kees Oudesluijs > > Op 14-1-2017 om 13:15 schreef John Sims: >> >> Can one of you help this person with his problem? Thanks >> >> John Sims >> >> *From:*Les Mathieson [mailto:mathlynn at bigpond.net.au] >> *Sent:* Friday, January 13, 2017 6:50 PM >> *Subject:* BN4 - 100/6 front suspension >> >> Hi John, >> >> My name is Les Mathieson, from Paynesville in Australia, >> >> I own an 100/6, pictured. >> >> You have a great site, just wondering if you could give me some advice. >> >> My car has a ride height in the front, basically the right hand side >> of the body is about 50mm or 2 inches lower than the right hand side. >> >> We have checked most things and nothing was apparent. >> >> Therefore we suspected one of the Coil springs in the front are the >> issue. I have them out & we sent them to a pretty reputable spring >> maker for testing etc before we bought a new set. >> >> Unfortunately the tests showed they were both ok? >> >> We are waiting for them to be returned to re-assemble & look for >> other causes of the issue. >> >> Do you have any clues, insights or comments that might assist? >> >> Thanks >> >> Les >> >> Les Mathieson >> >> 4 Araluen Court >> >> (PO Box 142) >> >> Paynesville >> >> VIC 3880 >> >> 0418106725 >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive:http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums:http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl >> > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com > -- Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.salter at gmail.com Sat Jan 14 08:21:20 2017 From: michael.salter at gmail.com (michael.salter at gmail.com) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2017 15:21:20 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] FW: BN4 - 100/6 front suspension References: <003001d26df7$b3795a30$1a6c0e90$@bigpond.net.au> <002901d26e5f$efb87f40$cf297dc0$@verizon.net> <587A33D1.8010407@earthlink.net> Hi Les, I may be "preaching to the converted " here but... In order to determine which spring(s) are at fault it is necessary to test the ride height of each end of the car in isolation to prevent a problem at one end affecting the other. To do this for the front, on a flat surface, jack the center of the diff (under the drain plug), remove the rear wheels then lower the rear to normal ride height. This produces a 3 point support. Bounce the front a couple of times to ensure that the front suspension units are operating correctly then measure the ride height both between the frame rails and the ground and the tops of the front fender arches and the ground. Repeat for the rear using a piece of pipe placed axially under the front cross member. In my experience it usually the rear springs that are at fault. Michael S BN1 #174 On Sat, Jan 14, 2017 at 10:03 AM -0500, "Bob Haskell" wrote: Jon & Les, Installed height of the springs the same? Were the front A arm inboard mounting bolts tightened with the car sitting flat on the ground (normal ride height)? How's the back of the car? It's not pitching the right front nose downward, right? Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 01/14/2017 07:15 AM, John Sims wrote: > Can one of you help this person with his problem? Thanks > > John Sims > > *From:*Les Mathieson [mailto:mathlynn at bigpond.net.au] > *Sent:* Friday, January 13, 2017 6:50 PM > *To:* john at healey6.com > *Subject:* BN4 - 100/6 front suspension > > Hi John, > > My name is Les Mathieson, from Paynesville in Australia, > > I own an 100/6, pictured. > > You have a great site, just wondering if you could give me some advice. > > My car has a ride height in the front, basically the right hand side of > the body is about 50mm or 2 inches lower than the right hand side. > > We have checked most things and nothing was apparent. > > Therefore we suspected one of the Coil springs in the front are the > issue. I have them out & we sent them to a pretty reputable spring maker > for testing etc before we bought a new set. > > Unfortunately the tests showed they were both ok? > > We are waiting for them to be returned to re-assemble & look for other > causes of the issue. > > Do you have any clues, insights or comments that might assist? > > Thanks > > Les > > Les Mathieson > > 4 Araluen Court > > (PO Box 142) > > Paynesville > > VIC 3880 > > 0418106725 > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Jan 14 09:12:47 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2017 08:12:47 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box References: <5c4d20a5-d2ec-b119-8b67-e3a3923683eb@comcast.net> <001501d26b8e$fc7f3990$f57dacb0$@hunterbane.com> <3bcd1b68-3f2d-077b-07a7-1501c1ea4f7d@comcast.net> <002201d26e53$3ad08250$b07186f0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> I recently got a shipment from Denis Welch Racing. I don't remember the shipping cost, but it was relatively trivial compared to the cost of the parts--around $100 IIRC--but the largest parts were a cam, an oil pump and a box of pistons. It was sent via UPS, who collected another $37 from me; probably for customs. One silly thing is that DWR had to send a small bottle of cam lube via the postal system--too scary for UPS I guess. The idea of a VAT gets kicked around sometimes in the 'States; if it was in lieu of some of the other taxes we pay--often disguised as 'fees'--it might be a good thing overall, but I'm sure our government would just add it to all the others. After all, our congressmen need large pensions and the best health insurance money can buy (both parties). Bob On 1/14/2017 2:44 AM, Simon Lachlan wrote: > > Hi, > > Try someone like this:- > > https://www.parcel2go.com/ > > ie make your own shipping arrangements via a courier of your own > choosing. I use people off this site quite often when I think I?m > about to be ripped off on P&P. > > I just got a quote for a spoof package: 500mmH X 300mmL X 200mmH at > 9kilo. Pick up UK, delivered USA, including ?Protection?(?). 4 days+ ETA. > > ?120:00 delivery to the US at a ?Take it or Leave it; we really don?t > give a stuff? rate is appalling. Unless it includes a huge amount of > import dues. But I imagine that those iniquities are handled > separately in the US, just like they are here? > > Simon > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *i erbs > *Sent:* 13 January 2017 19:27 > *To:* Neil Anderson > *Cc:* Healeys > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box > > I wanted to buy a luggage rack from England, They wanted 248 BPS for > the rack and 125 BPS to ship. I told them to find a cheaper way to > ship or I would not buy the rack. They told me too bad that was what > it cost to ship. Other suppliers have been willing to find a cheaper > way to ship when I asked... > > But no VAT applied :) > > > Ira Erbs > > Portland,OR > > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 7:27 AM, Neil Anderson > > Bob, > > FWIW, there would be no VAT on export orders from the UK, but shipping > is getting really expensive. > > Neil Anderson > > BT7 > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From derek.c.job at gmail.com Sat Jan 14 10:16:20 2017 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2017 17:16:20 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] FW: BN4 - 100/6 front suspension References: <003001d26df7$b3795a30$1a6c0e90$@bigpond.net.au> <002901d26e5f$efb87f40$cf297dc0$@verizon.net> <587A33D1.8010407@earthlink.net> <749F94B05E660FF2.6276f2d3-9cc3-4e82-a47b-d88915fc0dbc@mail.outlook.com> Looking at the photo it appears that the front suspension has been lowered. Is it the same on both sides. Are spacers being used? Derek On Sat, Jan 14, 2017 at 3:21 PM, wrote: > Hi Les, > I may be "preaching to the converted " here but... > In order to determine which spring(s) are at fault it is necessary to test > the ride height of each end of the car in isolation to prevent a problem at > one end affecting the other. > To do this for the front, on a flat surface, jack the center of the diff > (under the drain plug), remove the rear wheels then lower the rear to > normal ride height. This produces a 3 point support. > Bounce the front a couple of times to ensure that the front suspension > units are operating correctly then measure the ride height both between the > frame rails and the ground and the tops of the front fender arches and the > ground. > Repeat for the rear using a piece of pipe placed axially under the front > cross member. > In my experience it usually the rear springs that are at fault. > Michael S > BN1 #174 > > > > On Sat, Jan 14, 2017 at 10:03 AM -0500, "Bob Haskell" < > rchaskell at earthlink.net> wrote: > > Jon & Les, >> >> Installed height of the springs the same? >> >> Were the front A arm inboard mounting bolts tightened with the car >> sitting flat on the ground (normal ride height)? >> >> How's the back of the car? It's not pitching the right front nose >> downward, right? >> >> Cheers, >> >> Bob Haskell >> AHCA 3000 MkI registrarhttp://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php >> >> On 01/14/2017 07:15 AM, John Sims wrote: >> > Can one of you help this person with his problem? Thanks >> > >> > John Sims >> > >> > *From:*Les Mathieson [mailto:mathlynn at bigpond.net.au] >> > *Sent:* Friday, January 13, 2017 6:50 PM >> > *To:* john at healey6.com >> >> > *Subject:* BN4 - 100/6 front suspension >> > >> > Hi John, >> > >> > My name is Les Mathieson, from Paynesville in Australia, >> > >> > I own an 100/6, pictured. >> > >> > You have a great site, just wondering if you could give me some advice. >> > >> > My car has a ride height in the front, basically the right hand side of >> > the body is about 50mm or 2 inches lower than the right hand side. >> > >> > We have checked most things and nothing was apparent. >> > >> > Therefore we suspected one of the Coil springs in the front are the >> > issue. I have them out & we sent them to a pretty reputable spring maker >> > for testing etc before we bought a new set. >> > >> > Unfortunately the tests showed they were both ok? >> > >> > We are waiting for them to be returned to re-assemble & look for other >> > causes of the issue. >> > >> > Do you have any clues, insights or comments that might assist? >> > >> > Thanks >> > >> > Les >> > >> > Les Mathieson >> > >> > 4 Araluen Court >> > >> > (PO Box 142) >> > >> > Paynesville >> > >> > VIC 3880 >> > >> > 0418106725 >> > >> > >> > >> > _______________________________________________ >> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> > Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> > >> > Healeys at autox.team.net >> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> > >> > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net >> > >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >> >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sat Jan 14 10:25:54 2017 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2017 12:25:54 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] FW: BN4 - 100/6 front suspension References: <003001d26df7$b3795a30$1a6c0e90$@bigpond.net.au> <002901d26e5f$efb87f40$cf297dc0$@verizon.net> <587A33D1.8010407@earthlink.net> <749F94B05E660FF2.6276f2d3-9cc3-4e82-a47b-d88915fc0dbc@mail.outlook.com> Good point Derek, In my experience 100/6 front springs which, according to Moss, are the same as BN1/2 are inclined to ride low so it may be just that.. There is quite a bit more weight on the front of a 100/6 which could be an explanation. We used to find that a matched pair of used BJ8 springs were a great fit on the early 6 cyl cars... Michael S BN1 3174 On Sat, Jan 14, 2017 at 12:16 PM, Derek Job wrote: > Looking at the photo it appears that the front suspension has been > lowered. Is it the same on both sides. Are spacers being used? > > Derek > > On Sat, Jan 14, 2017 at 3:21 PM, wrote: > >> Hi Les, >> I may be "preaching to the converted " here but... >> In order to determine which spring(s) are at fault it is necessary to >> test the ride height of each end of the car in isolation to prevent a >> problem at one end affecting the other. >> To do this for the front, on a flat surface, jack the center of the diff >> (under the drain plug), remove the rear wheels then lower the rear to >> normal ride height. This produces a 3 point support. >> Bounce the front a couple of times to ensure that the front suspension >> units are operating correctly then measure the ride height both between the >> frame rails and the ground and the tops of the front fender arches and the >> ground. >> Repeat for the rear using a piece of pipe placed axially under the front >> cross member. >> In my experience it usually the rear springs that are at fault. >> Michael S >> BN1 #174 >> >> >> >> On Sat, Jan 14, 2017 at 10:03 AM -0500, "Bob Haskell" < >> rchaskell at earthlink.net> wrote: >> >> Jon & Les, >>> >>> Installed height of the springs the same? >>> >>> Were the front A arm inboard mounting bolts tightened with the car >>> sitting flat on the ground (normal ride height)? >>> >>> How's the back of the car? It's not pitching the right front nose >>> downward, right? >>> >>> Cheers, >>> >>> Bob Haskell >>> AHCA 3000 MkI registrarhttp://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php >>> >>> On 01/14/2017 07:15 AM, John Sims wrote: >>> > Can one of you help this person with his problem? Thanks >>> > >>> > John Sims >>> > >>> > *From:*Les Mathieson [mailto:mathlynn at bigpond.net.au] >>> > *Sent:* Friday, January 13, 2017 6:50 PM >>> > *To:* john at healey6.com >>> >>> > *Subject:* BN4 - 100/6 front suspension >>> > >>> > Hi John, >>> > >>> > My name is Les Mathieson, from Paynesville in Australia, >>> > >>> > I own an 100/6, pictured. >>> > >>> > You have a great site, just wondering if you could give me some advice. >>> > >>> > My car has a ride height in the front, basically the right hand side of >>> > the body is about 50mm or 2 inches lower than the right hand side. >>> > >>> > We have checked most things and nothing was apparent. >>> > >>> > Therefore we suspected one of the Coil springs in the front are the >>> > issue. I have them out & we sent them to a pretty reputable spring maker >>> > for testing etc before we bought a new set. >>> > >>> > Unfortunately the tests showed they were both ok? >>> > >>> > We are waiting for them to be returned to re-assemble & look for other >>> > causes of the issue. >>> > >>> > Do you have any clues, insights or comments that might assist? >>> > >>> > Thanks >>> > >>> > Les >>> > >>> > Les Mathieson >>> > >>> > 4 Araluen Court >>> > >>> > (PO Box 142) >>> > >>> > Paynesville >>> > >>> > VIC 3880 >>> > >>> > 0418106725 >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > _______________________________________________ >>> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> > Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> > >>> > Healeys at autox.team.net >>> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> > >>> > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net >>> > >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >>> >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com >> >> >> > -- *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat Jan 14 10:48:30 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2017 18:48:30 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box References: <5c4d20a5-d2ec-b119-8b67-e3a3923683eb@comcast.net> <001501d26b8e$fc7f3990$f57dacb0$@hunterbane.com> <3bcd1b68-3f2d-077b-07a7-1501c1ea4f7d@comcast.net> <002201d26e53$3ad08250$b07186f0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> <972bfe23-e458-7748-288b-f153a7602962@comcast.net> Sending 6 washers (up to 100g) from the Netherlands would be less than $5 unregistered. Up to 250g it would be around $7. Tax depending how you fill in the forms and/or the value of the washers. Kees Oudesluijs Op 14-1-2017 om 17:12 schreef Bob Spidell: > > I recently got a shipment from Denis Welch Racing. I don't remember > the shipping cost, but it was relatively trivial compared to the cost > of the parts--around $100 IIRC--but the largest parts were a cam, an > oil pump and a box of pistons. It was sent via UPS, who collected > another $37 from me; probably for customs. One silly thing is that > DWR had to send a small bottle of cam lube via the postal system--too > scary for UPS I guess. > > The idea of a VAT gets kicked around sometimes in the 'States; if it > was in lieu of some of the other taxes we pay--often disguised as > 'fees'--it might be a good thing overall, but I'm sure our government > would just add it to all the others. After all, our congressmen need > large pensions and the best health insurance money can buy (both > parties). > > Bob > > > On 1/14/2017 2:44 AM, Simon Lachlan wrote: >> >> Hi, >> >> Try someone like this:- >> >> https://www.parcel2go.com/ >> >> ie make your own shipping arrangements via a courier of your own >> choosing. I use people off this site quite often when I think I?m >> about to be ripped off on P&P. >> >> I just got a quote for a spoof package: 500mmH X 300mmL X 200mmH at >> 9kilo. Pick up UK, delivered USA, including ?Protection?(?). 4 days+ ETA. >> >> ?120:00 delivery to the US at a ?Take it or Leave it; we really don?t >> give a stuff? rate is appalling. Unless it includes a huge amount of >> import dues. But I imagine that those iniquities are handled >> separately in the US, just like they are here? >> >> Simon >> >> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of >> *i erbs >> *Sent:* 13 January 2017 19:27 >> *To:* Neil Anderson >> *Cc:* Healeys >> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box >> >> I wanted to buy a luggage rack from England, They wanted 248 BPS for >> the rack and 125 BPS to ship. I told them to find a cheaper way to >> ship or I would not buy the rack. They told me too bad that was what >> it cost to ship. Other suppliers have been willing to find a cheaper >> way to ship when I asked... >> >> But no VAT applied :) >> >> >> Ira Erbs >> >> Portland,OR >> >> _______ _______ >> (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) >> (_________________________) >> >> BT7 engine and disk brakes >> >> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti >> >> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words >> >> On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 7:27 AM, Neil Anderson >> >> Bob, >> >> FWIW, there would be no VAT on export orders from the UK, but >> shipping is getting really expensive. >> >> Neil Anderson >> >> BT7 >> > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Sat Jan 14 11:13:37 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2017 13:13:37 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] FW: BN4 - 100/6 front suspension References: <003001d26df7$b3795a30$1a6c0e90$@bigpond.net.au> <002901d26e5f$efb87f40$cf297dc0$@verizon.net> <587A33D1.8010407@earthlink.net> <005601d26e74$b4acc950$1e065bf0$@bigpond.net.au> Les, By the installed height of the springs, I meant from upper spring perch to lower spring perch. Are the springs compressed the same amount? The front suspension a-arms - The a-arms go from the kingpin, spring perch to the frame. The metastatic bushings at the frame can bind and the a-arms won't move through their full range of travel. As you have the springs out, you can see how easy each side moves up and down. Do the lower arms move freely? Do the upper a-arms (shocks) move without any binding? Normally when assembling the front suspension folks don't tighten up the castellated nuts (and install the cotter pins) until the car is sitting on the ground with the engine in it. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 01/14/2017 09:44 AM, Les Mathieson wrote: > Hi Bob > > Thanks > > I won?t be able to get to the car until later this coming week. > > I assume you mean the height of the springs as mounted in the car say > from the ground? I will check. > > the difference in one wheel arch to the other is about 50mm, measuring > from ground or the wheel. > > When I measure the height of say the top of the headlights to ground I > get a similar discrepancy. > > From my memory the height of the chassis rails etc. seem to be ok. The > cross member seems to be also ok & horizontal. > > Were the front A arm inboard mounting bolts tightened with the car > sitting flat on the ground (normal ride height)? Where actually do you mean? > > How's the back of the car? It's not pitching the right front nose > downward, right? The back of the car seems ok. > > Cheers > > Les > > -----Original Message----- > From: Bob Haskell [mailto:rchaskell at earthlink.net] > Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2017 1:21 AM > To: John Sims; Healey List; mathlynn at bigpond.net.au > Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: BN4 - 100/6 front suspension > > Jon & Les, > > Installed height of the springs the same? > > Were the front A arm inboard mounting bolts tightened with the car > sitting flat on the ground (normal ride height)? > > How's the back of the car? It's not pitching the right front nose > downward, right? > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > > On 01/14/2017 07:15 AM, John Sims wrote: > > > Can one of you help this person with his problem? Thanks > > > > > > John Sims > > > > > > *From:*Les Mathieson [mailto:mathlynn at bigpond.net.au] > > > *Sent:* Friday, January 13, 2017 6:50 PM > > > > *Subject:* BN4 - 100/6 front suspension > > > > > > Hi John, > > > > > > My name is Les Mathieson, from Paynesville in Australia, > > > > > > I own an 100/6, pictured. > > > > > > You have a great site, just wondering if you could give me some advice. > > > > > > My car has a ride height in the front, basically the right hand side > > > of the body is about 50mm or 2 inches lower than the right hand side. > > > > > > We have checked most things and nothing was apparent. > > > > > > Therefore we suspected one of the Coil springs in the front are the > > > issue. I have them out & we sent them to a pretty reputable spring > > > maker for testing etc before we bought a new set. > > > > > > Unfortunately the tests showed they were both ok? > > > > > > We are waiting for them to be returned to re-assemble & look for other > > > causes of the issue. > > > > > > Do you have any clues, insights or comments that might assist? > > > > > > Thanks > > > > > > Les > > > > > > Les Mathieson > > > > > > 4 Araluen Court > > > > > > (PO Box 142) > > > > > > Paynesville > > > > > > VIC 3880 > > > > > > 0418106725 > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > > > donation $12.75 > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > > > > From austinhealeyslist at gmail.com Sat Jan 14 13:46:05 2017 From: austinhealeyslist at gmail.com (Austin Healeys List) Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2017 09:46:05 +1300 Subject: [Healeys] FW: BN4 - 100/6 front suspension References: <003001d26df7$b3795a30$1a6c0e90$@bigpond.net.au> <002901d26e5f$efb87f40$cf297dc0$@verizon.net> Same issue on my BN4, problem was a buildup of several things: one is measuring from the front guard lip is the wrong place to do it as the left side is up to an inch higher than the right due to manufacturing variances. Measure up to the chassis frame either side (stack of 4 by 2s works for this) and then measure up to a straight stick across the wing beadings rather than the guard lips. Secondly the rear spring will have sagged on the drivers side which has a big impact on the front height surprisingly. Even after having my rear springs reset and swapping side to side, the drivers side sagged back down within months. To compensate I added an extra leaf to the drivers side and that improve things a lot, however I'm stuck with the 'right front is too low' situation due to the shape of the arch, even though the chassis is level. Third is that the panhard rod is not always the right length and the rear axle can be off to one side. I ended up shortening mine by half an inch to bring the axle back to the centre of the car. Stand behind it and look at how much the spinner sticks out of each side. Although minor, this will make one side of the car slightly heavier than the other. And lastly, looking at the shape of the grille there has been some repair work done in the past by people who aren't familiar with how the front of a Healey should look. The panels may simply be in the wrong place which gives the illusion of being the wrong height, or worse the frame may be bent. If the chassis is level then you have some bodywork issues. Andy. On 1/15/17, John Sims wrote: > > > > > Can one of you help this person with his problem? Thanks > > John Sims > > > > From: Les Mathieson [mailto:mathlynn at bigpond.net.au] > Sent: Friday, January 13, 2017 6:50 PM > To: john at healey6.com > Subject: BN4 - 100/6 front suspension > > > > Hi John, > > My name is Les Mathieson, from Paynesville in Australia, > > I own an 100/6, pictured. > > You have a great site, just wondering if you could give me some advice. > > My car has a ride height in the front, basically the right hand side of the > body is about 50mm or 2 inches lower than the right hand side. > > We have checked most things and nothing was apparent. > > Therefore we suspected one of the Coil springs in the front are the issue. > I have them out & we sent them to a pretty reputable spring maker for > testing etc before we bought a new set. > > Unfortunately the tests showed they were both ok? > > We are waiting for them to be returned to re-assemble & look for other > causes of the issue. > > Do you have any clues, insights or comments that might assist? > > Thanks > > Les From jlyons4 at rochester.rr.com Sun Jan 15 15:11:28 2017 From: jlyons4 at rochester.rr.com (Jim Lyons) Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2017 17:11:28 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Grill Surround Sliver-Grey Paint ? Hello All, I just purchased a new grill surround for my BJ8. I?m looking for a recommendations for a supplier of the ?correct and concourse approved? SILVER-FLAT GREY paint to finish the inner lip of the grill. I searched the MOSS catalog but was unable to find the previously recommended flat silver paint used on the wire wheels. Thanks for your help. Jim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ahbn6 at verizon.net Sun Jan 15 16:04:25 2017 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2017 18:04:25 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Grill Surround Sliver-Grey Paint ? References: <126E1278553D4D09807CBFD9289CA6CA@LyonsAsusS550C> Try alsacorp.com John Sims Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Lyons Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2017 5:11 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Grill Surround Sliver-Grey Paint ? Hello All, I just purchased a new grill surround for my BJ8. I?m looking for a recommendations for a supplier of the ?correct and concourse approved? SILVER-FLAT GREY paint to finish the inner lip of the grill. I searched the MOSS catalog but was unable to find the previously recommended flat silver paint used on the wire wheels. Thanks for your help. Jim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dayton21 at comcast.net Sun Jan 15 16:16:45 2017 From: dayton21 at comcast.net (dayton21 at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2017 18:16:45 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Grill Surround Sliver-Grey Paint ? References: <126E1278553D4D09807CBFD9289CA6CA@LyonsAsusS550C> EASTWOOD sells the correct color Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Jim Lyons Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2017 5:24 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Grill Surround Sliver-Grey Paint ? Hello All, ? I just purchased a new grill surround for my BJ8. I?m looking for a recommendations for a supplier of the ?correct and concourse approved?? SILVER-FLAT GREY paint to finish the inner lip of the grill. I searched the MOSS catalog but was unable to find the previously recommended flat silver paint used on the wire wheels. ? Thanks for your help. Jim ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sun Jan 15 16:35:36 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2017 23:35:36 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Emergency Brake Handle References: <1581476182.3518757.1484523336672.ref@mail.yahoo.com> I am trying to take my BN2 emergency brake handle apart for chrome plating.? The only problem I am having is the push button on the end of the actuating rod.? I see a pin holding it in place and I am having a bit*h of a time driving the pin out.? Is the pin tapered?? Does it only drive out one way or could it just be corroded in place?? The button rocks back and forth so it is not stick where it passes through the actuating rod.? I am ready to just clamp it in the vice and just start whacking away with the hammer and punch.? Heat help?Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.salter at gmail.com Sun Jan 15 18:09:13 2017 From: michael.salter at gmail.com (michael.salter at gmail.com) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2017 01:09:13 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Emergency Brake Handle References: <1581476182.3518757.1484523336672.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1581476182.3518757.1484523336672@mail.yahoo.com> Mike that pin is pretty thin. Rather than marring the button I would think that you could grip the rod and tap on the underside of the button to shear the pin and get the knob off. Getting the sections of the shorn off pin should then be easy. Michael S BN1 #174 On Sun, Jan 15, 2017 at 8:03 PM -0500, "Michael MacLean" wrote: I am trying to take my BN2 emergency brake handle apart for chrome plating.? The only problem I am having is the push button on the end of the actuating rod.? I see a pin holding it in place and I am having a bit*h of a time driving the pin out.? Is the pin tapered?? Does it only drive out one way or could it just be corroded in place?? The button rocks back and forth so it is not stick where it passes through the actuating rod.? I am ready to just clamp it in the vice and just start whacking away with the hammer and punch.? Heat help?Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Sun Jan 15 18:22:41 2017 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2017 17:22:41 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Head Bolts References: <7BE630FC-F6C7-44CF-BE8A-FF8C966264C9@gmail.com> Break the nut loose from the stud. Chase all the threads on nut and stud. Put the stud back in finger tight. Then install nut and torque to 75 ft lbs. The factory manual says to torque the studs but the better practice is to install finger tight. On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 8:32 PM, R. Lindsay <050.rpl at gmail.com> wrote: > I have removed the left rear head bolt to replace the vacuum hose from the > dizzy to the carbs (don?t ask). When I unscrewed the nut/bolt, the entire > bolt came out ( the nut did not come loose). Now I need to put it all > back. Should I break the nut from the head bolt and put them back in > individually, or just put it back in as a single unit? Also, I believe the > torque on the bolt/nut is 70 foot pounds: can someone confirm this. > > Thank you so much!! > > Price Lindsay > 67 BJ8 > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Sun Jan 15 18:42:54 2017 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2017 01:42:54 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Grill Surround Sliver-Grey Paint ? References: <126E1278553D4D09807CBFD9289CA6CA@LyonsAsusS550C>, <000001d26f83$b7f4fa50$27deeef0$@verizon.net> I've tried 5 different paints and none of them "stick" to the chrome even with "etching" paint. I'm very interested in your answers.I gave up and learned to like the reflective chrome. Rich Kahn ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of John Sims Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2017 3:04 PM To: 'Jim Lyons'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Grill Surround Sliver-Grey Paint ? Try alsacorp.com John Sims Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Lyons Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2017 5:11 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Grill Surround Sliver-Grey Paint ? Hello All, I just purchased a new grill surround for my BJ8. I'm looking for a recommendations for a supplier of the "correct and concourse approved" SILVER-FLAT GREY paint to finish the inner lip of the grill. I searched the MOSS catalog but was unable to find the previously recommended flat silver paint used on the wire wheels. Thanks for your help. Jim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Sun Jan 15 18:47:59 2017 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2017 17:47:59 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] New steering worm gear I just purchased a new steering worm gear for my BT7. Any tips on removing the old gear and attaching the new one? I appears that the end of the shaft is swaged at the lower end of the gear. If I grind this swaged area out in order to remove the old gear, will I then have enough shaft left to swage it again with the new gear. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sun Jan 15 21:44:37 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2017 04:44:37 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Head Bolts References: <7BE630FC-F6C7-44CF-BE8A-FF8C966264C9@gmail.com> Always a good idea to coat the threads that go into the block with Gasgacinch in case one of the water jackets were cut into when they drilled the hole and cut the threads for the stud. Mike MacLean On Sunday, January 15, 2017 7:25 PM, richard mayor wrote: Break the nut loose from the stud. Chase all the threads on nut and stud.? Put the stud back in finger tight. Then install nut and torque to 75 ft lbs. The factory manual says to torque the studs but the better practice is to install finger tight. On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 8:32 PM, R. Lindsay <050.rpl at gmail.com> wrote: I have removed the left rear head bolt to replace the vacuum hose from the dizzy to the carbs (don?t ask).? When I unscrewed the nut/bolt, the entire bolt came out ( the nut did not come loose).? Now I need to put it all back.? Should I break the nut from the head bolt and put them back in individually, or just put it back in as a single unit?? Also, I believe the torque on the bolt/nut is 70 foot pounds: can someone confirm this. Thank you so much!! Price Lindsay67 BJ8 ______________________________ _________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/ listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Sun Jan 15 22:39:18 2017 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2017 05:39:18 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Grill Surround Sliver-Grey Paint ? References: <126E1278553D4D09807CBFD9289CA6CA@LyonsAsusS550C>, <000001d26f83$b7f4fa50$27deeef0$@verizon.net>, Jim, The Concours Guide, at least the one I have, indicates that the the paint should be a a light flat grey dull silver band of paint. I guess it gives you some latitude there. What I use is a Quartz Silver which is a Honda colour, code NH94M. I live in Canada and obtain same at Canadian Tire Stores. I prep the area to be painted first by masking all the rest of the grille surround, then I use a 3M red Scratch Pad to dull the chrome finish, wash it with metal prep and then apply a light coat of grey primer followed by two light coats of the Honda paint. There are a couple of grilles I have done about 5-6 years ago and the paint still stands. I also use the same colour on the back side of the bumpers and overriders. Jean ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Richard Kahn Sent: January 16, 2017 1:42 AM To: John Sims; 'Jim Lyons'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Grill Surround Sliver-Grey Paint ? I've tried 5 different paints and none of them "stick" to the chrome even with "etching" paint. I'm very interested in your answers.I gave up and learned to like the reflective chrome. Rich Kahn ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of John Sims Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2017 3:04 PM To: 'Jim Lyons'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Grill Surround Sliver-Grey Paint ? Try alsacorp.com John Sims Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Lyons Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2017 5:11 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Grill Surround Sliver-Grey Paint ? Hello All, I just purchased a new grill surround for my BJ8. I'm looking for a recommendations for a supplier of the "correct and concourse approved" SILVER-FLAT GREY paint to finish the inner lip of the grill. I searched the MOSS catalog but was unable to find the previously recommended flat silver paint used on the wire wheels. Thanks for your help. Jim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From DrBerkowitz at hotmail.com Mon Jan 16 06:31:27 2017 From: DrBerkowitz at hotmail.com (Leonard Berkowitz) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2017 13:31:27 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Insurance Any thoughts on insurance. I have quotes from JC Taylor and Haggerty . Any comments on either of these or any suggestions for alternatives. Currently insured with State Farm which is costing double what these two quoted. Len Berkowitz -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com Mon Jan 16 07:19:05 2017 From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2017 14:19:05 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Insurance References: I use Barrett-Jackson who is the broker for AIG; but I think the criteria is more than $100k insured value. I once used Leland West but they had so many restrictions that they virtually cancelled you if you drive the car. Many speak well of Hagerty but I did not find their quote as competitive as what I currently have. My rule of thumb is get new quotes every 3-5 years to avoid premium creep. I also do it on my house and daily drivers. Regards, Richard C Any thoughts on insurance. I have quotes from JC Taylor and Haggerty . Any comments on either of these or any suggestions for alternatives. Currently insured with State Farm which is costing double what these two quoted. Len Berkowitz _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Mon Jan 16 07:35:13 2017 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2017 09:35:13 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] New steering worm gear References: Hi Richard, Yes the cam is held onto the column by the end being "swaged" over ...This is how I get them off. [image: Inline image 1] There is steel plug on the end of the puller's forcing screw that is about 0.020" larger than the hole in the column. Looks like this when removed. The plug is still in place here. [image: Inline image 2] The triangular plate that the puller is pulling on (actually a home made mini flywheel puller) has a hole in it about 0.050" larger than the column itself. Once the new cam is installed I just put 3 small TIG welds to replace the swage. The swage is just to prevent someone pulling up on the steering wheel and sliding the cam off the column. Michael S On Sun, Jan 15, 2017 at 8:47 PM, richard mayor wrote: > I just purchased a new steering worm gear for my BT7. Any tips on > removing the old gear and attaching the new one? I appears that the end of > the shaft is swaged at the lower end of the gear. If I grind this swaged > area out in order to remove the old gear, will I then have enough shaft > left to swage it again with the new gear. > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > > -- *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2014553 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2348774 bytes Desc: not available URL: From airtightproductions at icloud.com Mon Jan 16 09:53:55 2017 From: airtightproductions at icloud.com (Steven Kingsbury) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2017 16:53:55 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [Healeys] Insurance I have Haggerty and have used them for years. Easy to work with, but then, I've never had a claim. But they really do help our community in a number of different ways and I'm more than satisfied. And yes, their rates a very competitive. Steven Kingsbury BN1 #598 On Jan 16, 2017, at 05:52 AM, Leonard Berkowitz wrote: Any thoughts on insurance. I have quotes from JC Taylor and Haggerty . Any comments on either of these or any suggestions for alternatives. Currently insured with State Farm which is costing double what these two quoted. Len Berkowitz _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys .msg-quote p {margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px;} -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From stephen.white at wku.edu Mon Jan 16 10:39:36 2017 From: stephen.white at wku.edu (White, Stephen) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2017 17:39:36 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Insurance References: <1fadc3e8-f760-403c-b91c-4b4f08593f09@me.com> may also want to check national corvette museum - doesn't have to be vette - they've given me the best deal i could find from an agency that would cover my small, but diverse collection. get to them through the museum website. Steve White 57 100/6 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Mon Jan 16 10:46:45 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2017 12:46:45 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Insurance References: <1fadc3e8-f760-403c-b91c-4b4f08593f09@me.com> I have had two cars insured with Hagerty for many years. During that time, I've filed a claim for each of them (one for towing and one for fire damage). I have been very pleased with their responsiveness and service. I also like their policy of encouraging use of the cars and not expecting them to remain covered in the garage except while being transported on a trailer to some event. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Steven Kingsbury Sent: Monday, January 16, 2017 11:54 AM To: Leonard Berkowitz Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Insurance I have Haggerty and have used them for years. Easy to work with, but then, I've never had a claim. But they really do help our community in a number of different ways and I'm more than satisfied. And yes, their rates a very competitive. Steven Kingsbury BN1 #598 On Jan 16, 2017, at 05:52 AM, Leonard Berkowitz wrote: Any thoughts on insurance. I have quotes from JC Taylor and Haggerty . Any comments on either of these or any suggestions for alternatives. Currently insured with State Farm which is costing double what these two quoted. Len Berkowitz -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyron at yahoo.com Mon Jan 16 10:55:45 2017 From: healeyron at yahoo.com (Ron Mitchell) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2017 17:55:45 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Insurance References: <1fadc3e8-f760-403c-b91c-4b4f08593f09@me.com> I've been with Hagerty for over twenty years. ?Have had two claims. ?Both times they told me to get a quote and then sent me a check for the quoted amount with a note that if there is additional expense they will cover it. ?One note of caution. ?Make sure the agreed amount you insure your car for will cover the replacement cost. ?I've heard of incidents where the agreed amount was less than the replacement value and Hagerty paid the agreed value. ?If you under insure your car to save a few dollars don't expect them to make up the difference. RPM1959 100-6 BN6!969 ?AN9? From: Steven Kingsbury To: Leonard Berkowitz Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" Sent: Monday, January 16, 2017 11:53 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Insurance I have Haggerty and have used them for years. Easy to work with, but then, I've never had a claim. But they really do help our community in a number of different ways and I'm more than satisfied. And yes, their rates a very competitive. Steven Kingsbury BN1 #598 On Jan 16, 2017, at 05:52 AM, Leonard Berkowitz wrote: Any thoughts on insurance. ?I have quotes from?JC Taylor and Haggerty . ?Any comments on either of these or any suggestions for alternatives. ?Currently insured with State Farm ?which is costing double what these two quoted. Len Berkowitz_______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys #yiv4501266447 .yiv4501266447msg-quote p {margin-top:0px;margin-bottom:0px;} _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Mon Jan 16 11:17:48 2017 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2017 18:17:48 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Insurance References: One of our club members developed a 14 inch long crack in their frame and and Hagerty paid a claim of over 10K (correct me on this, Dave Nock, if I have the amount wrong) with no questions asked. I've been with them 15 years but not needed them, fortunately. Rich Kahn ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Leonard Berkowitz Sent: Monday, January 16, 2017 5:31 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Insurance Any thoughts on insurance. I have quotes from JC Taylor and Haggerty . Any comments on either of these or any suggestions for alternatives. Currently insured with State Farm which is costing double what these two quoted. Len Berkowitz -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Mon Jan 16 12:01:16 2017 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2017 14:01:16 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Insurance References: <1fadc3e8-f760-403c-b91c-4b4f08593f09@me.com> <004a01d27020$81ada170$8508e450$@rr.com> I have insured with Hagerty--both Healey, race cars and box trailer--for years and my only direct experience with them was when a woman rear-ended the trailer. They were very liberal in their appraisal, giving me close to the stated value of the trailer and letting me keep it versus looking to total it out and salvage it. I was entirely satisfied with their service. A friend of mine has a Ferrari 246 Dino which he insures with Hagerty. A few years ago a wire going through the dash shorted, causing a major fire. I don't know whether he was offered the option of having the car totalled and receiving the agreed value but he opted to have it repaired and they paid over $100K with no hassles. Best--Michael Oritt On Mon, Jan 16, 2017 at 12:46 PM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > I have had two cars insured with Hagerty for many years. During that > time, I've filed a claim for each of them (one for towing and one for fire > damage). I have been very pleased with their responsiveness and service. > > I also like their policy of encouraging use of the cars and not expecting > them to remain covered in the garage except while being transported on a > trailer to some event. > > > > Steve Byers > > HBJ8L/36666 > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > Havelock, NC > > > > > > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Steven > Kingsbury > *Sent:* Monday, January 16, 2017 11:54 AM > *To:* Leonard Berkowitz > *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Insurance > > > > I have Haggerty and have used them for years. Easy to work with, but then, > I've never had a claim. But they really do help our community in a number > of different ways and I'm more than satisfied. And yes, their rates a very > competitive. > > Steven Kingsbury > > BN1 #598 > > > On Jan 16, 2017, at 05:52 AM, Leonard Berkowitz > wrote: > > Any thoughts on insurance. I have quotes from JC Taylor and Haggerty . > Any comments on either of these or any suggestions for alternatives. > Currently insured with State Farm which is costing double what these two > quoted. > > > > Len Berkowitz > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From lawrence.swift at gmail.com Mon Jan 16 12:07:23 2017 From: lawrence.swift at gmail.com (Lawrence Swift) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2017 14:07:23 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Insurance References: <1fadc3e8-f760-403c-b91c-4b4f08593f09@me.com> <004a01d27020$81ada170$8508e450$@rr.com> agreed. my recent claim was promptly addressed and the next premium did not increase. > On Jan 16, 2017, at 12:46 PM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > > I have had two cars insured with Hagerty for many years. During that time, I've filed a claim for each of them (one for towing and one for fire damage). I have been very pleased with their responsiveness and service. > I also like their policy of encouraging use of the cars and not expecting them to remain covered in the garage except while being transported on a trailer to some event. > > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > AHCA Delegate at Large > Havelock, NC > > > Sent: Monday, January 16, 2017 11:54 AM > To: Leonard Berkowitz > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Insurance > > I have Haggerty and have used them for years. Easy to work with, but then, I've never had a claim. But they really do help our community in a number of different ways and I'm more than satisfied. And yes, their rates a very competitive. > Steven Kingsbury > BN1 #598 > > >> Any thoughts on insurance. I have quotes from JC Taylor and Haggerty . Any comments on either of these or any suggestions for alternatives. Currently insured with State Farm which is costing double what these two quoted. >> >> >> >> Len Berkowitz >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From harborislander at aol.com Mon Jan 16 14:04:04 2017 From: harborislander at aol.com (MIKE LEWIS) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2017 16:04:04 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] insurance I have used Heacock for 5 years and been extremely pleased with their service and premium costs. Ford Heacock is a car guy for what that is worth but so is McKeel Hargerty. Heacock was less than Hagerty for same amount of coverage so switched. Had minor self inflicted front end damage ( don't ask) and after having a problem matching the reno red paint - 56 100M is reno red over black - Heacock agreed to paint all the red, not just front end and doors. Heacock even came to me before Hurricane Matthew and offered to pay 50% of the cost to move the Healey to safe ground as opposed to leaving in my garage at home which did have about a foot of storm surge. Didn't need to use and moved it to higher ground in town but was impressed that they were proactive. Mike Lewis Harbor Island, SC -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Jan 16 14:46:00 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2017 13:46:00 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Insurance References: <1fadc3e8-f760-403c-b91c-4b4f08593f09@me.com> Great with claims. They know what replacement parts cost and realistic hourly rates to fix. And as stated. They support Healey events. Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes Portland,OR On Jan 16, 2017 9:23 AM, "Steven Kingsbury" wrote: > I have Haggerty and have used them for years. Easy to work with, but then, > I've never had a claim. But they really do help our community in a number > of different ways and I'm more than satisfied. And yes, their rates a very > competitive. > Steven Kingsbury > BN1 #598 > > On Jan 16, 2017, at 05:52 AM, Leonard Berkowitz > wrote: > > Any thoughts on insurance. I have quotes from JC Taylor and Haggerty . > Any comments on either of these or any suggestions for alternatives. > Currently insured with State Farm which is costing double what these two > quoted. > > > Len Berkowitz > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > airtightproductions at icloud.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at gmail.com Mon Jan 16 16:05:03 2017 From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2017 15:05:03 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Insurance References: <1fadc3e8-f760-403c-b91c-4b4f08593f09@me.com> <004a01d27020$81ada170$8508e450$@rr.com> <6B12BADB-87AE-4910-BFEB-551A2FD1332D@gmail.com> We recently had a customer that had Hagerty. The car was a fresh restoration and he was hit in the right front hard. There was extensive damage to the right frame rail and the shock tower assy. Repairs were extensive and the just said fix it. David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 209 948 8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: Lawrence Swift Sent: Monday, January 16, 2017 11:07 AM To: BJ8Healeys Cc: Ahealey help Subject: Re: [Healeys] Insurance agreed. my recent claim was promptly addressed and the next premium did not increase. On Jan 16, 2017, at 12:46 PM, BJ8Healeys wrote: I have had two cars insured with Hagerty for many years. During that time, I've filed a claim for each of them (one for towing and one for fire damage). I have been very pleased with their responsiveness and service. I also like their policy of encouraging use of the cars and not expecting them to remain covered in the garage except while being transported on a trailer to some event. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Steven Kingsbury Sent: Monday, January 16, 2017 11:54 AM To: Leonard Berkowitz Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Insurance I have Haggerty and have used them for years. Easy to work with, but then, I've never had a claim. But they really do help our community in a number of different ways and I'm more than satisfied. And yes, their rates a very competitive. Steven Kingsbury BN1 #598 On Jan 16, 2017, at 05:52 AM, Leonard Berkowitz wrote: Any thoughts on insurance. I have quotes from JC Taylor and Haggerty . Any comments on either of these or any suggestions for alternatives. Currently insured with State Farm which is costing double what these two quoted. Len Berkowitz _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From goldengt at cal.net Mon Jan 16 17:13:42 2017 From: goldengt at cal.net (goldengt at cal.net) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2017 16:13:42 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] New steering worm gear References: I had a machine shop do the swap. I sure do like the new one. No more dead spot that may or may not be on center.Ken Freese65 BJ8 ----- Original Message ----- From: Michael Salter To: richard mayor Cc: healeys Sent: Mon, 16 Jan 2017 06:35:13 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: [Healeys] New steering worm gear Hi Richard, Yes the cam is held onto the column by the end being "swaged" over ...This is how I get them off. There is steel plug on the end of the puller's forcing screw that is about 0.020" larger than the hole in the column. Looks like this when removed. The plug is still in place here. The triangular plate that the puller is pulling on (actually a home made mini flywheel puller) has a hole in it about 0.050" larger than the column itself. Once the new cam is installed I just put 3 small TIG welds to replace the swage. The swage is just to prevent someone pulling up on the steering wheel and sliding the cam off the column. Michael S On Sun, Jan 15, 2017 at 8:47 PM, richard mayor wrote: I just purchased a new steering worm gear for my BT7. Any tips on removing the old gear and attaching the new one? I appears that the end of the shaft is swaged at the lower end of the gear. If I grind this swaged area out in order to remove the old gear, will I then have enough shaft left to swage it again with the new gear. _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -- If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Mon Jan 16 18:22:23 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2017 01:22:23 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Trunk Seal References: <953137948.4252852.1484616143707.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Is this the correct cross section for the 100 trunk seal.? Of course it is a Moss item I bought a few years ago.? Just getting around to addressing the trunk area.? Which side goes towards the inside of the trunk?? All the way around in one piece? Where is the cut ends end up?Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0662.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 148158 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Jan 16 19:55:58 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2017 18:55:58 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] New steering worm gear References: <165510787.261268.1484612022621.JavaMail.zimbra@cal.net> Who is selling these? On 1/16/2017 4:13 PM, goldengt at cal.net wrote: > I had a machine shop do the swap. I sure do like the new one. No more > dead spot that may or may not be on center. > Ken Freese > 65 BJ8 > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Mon Jan 16 20:29:27 2017 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock British Car Specialists) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2017 19:29:27 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] New steering worm gear References: <165510787.261268.1484612022621.JavaMail.zimbra@cal.net> We have them in stock David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com Please feel free to view an interview with the Nock's in 2009 Enjoy www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOTTRYkbQzs . . Sent from my iPad > On Jan 16, 2017, at 6:55 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > Who is selling these? > >> On 1/16/2017 4:13 PM, goldengt at cal.net wrote: >> I had a machine shop do the swap. I sure do like the new one. No more dead spot that may or may not be on center. >> Ken Freese >> 65 BJ8 > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Mon Jan 16 20:45:14 2017 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2017 19:45:14 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?insurance?= lady in car club did $23,000 damage to front end of healey. American Home something or other sold by Heacock classic insurance paid off immedietly with no hassle. From josef-eckert at t-online.de Tue Jan 17 02:45:23 2017 From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de) Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2017 10:45:23 +0100 (MET) Subject: [Healeys] Trunk Seal References: <953137948.4252852.1484616143707.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <953137948.4252852.1484616143707@mail.yahoo.com> Mike it is the correct seal for a 100 and the sharp edge goes to the outside. Where the cut ends up depends if it is a steel or aluminium boot lid. Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: [Healeys] Trunk Seal Datum: 2017-01-17T03:22:22+0100 Von: "Michael MacLean" An: "Healeys Help" Is this the correct cross section for the 100 trunk seal. Of course it is a Moss item I bought a few years ago. Just getting around to addressing the trunk area. Which side goes towards the inside of the trunk? All the way around in one piece? Where is the cut ends end up? Mike MacLean ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From warthodson at aol.com Tue Jan 17 12:39:24 2017 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2017 14:39:24 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Trunk Seal That is an interesting bit of trivia! I have an aluminum boot lid, but would like to know where the cut ends on both the alum & steel lids. Gary Hodson Where the cut ends up depends if it is a steel or aluminium boot lid. -----Original Message----- From: josef-eckert To: Michael MacLean ; Healeys, Forum Sent: Tue, Jan 17, 2017 12:56 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Trunk Seal Mike it is the correct seal for a 100 and the sharp edge goes to the outside. Where the cut ends up depends if it is a steel or aluminium boot lid. Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: [Healeys] Trunk Seal Datum: 2017-01-17T03:22:22+0100 Von: "Michael MacLean" An: "Healeys Help" Is this the correct cross section for the 100 trunk seal. Of course it is a Moss item I bought a few years ago. Just getting around to addressing the trunk area. Which side goes towards the inside of the trunk? All the way around in one piece? Where is the cut ends end up? Mike MacLean ? _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From josef-eckert at t-online.de Tue Jan 17 13:38:34 2017 From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de) Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2017 21:38:34 +0100 (MET) Subject: [Healeys] Trunk Seal References: <1484646323975.4448354.4d4a0b38f185b0ce0962406affc9f453a3cd9a37@spica.telekom.de> <159adf0eb2f-7088-9d1e@webstg-a04.mail.aol.com> Gary, As regards aluminium boot lid seals there are at least two strong opinions: One says there was no seal at all at the boot lid, but on the boot shroud opening. This might be only with very early 100s, but not confirmed. The other which I share (for cars built at least from early 1954), as my car was fitted with the seal on the aluminium boot lid when I bought it unrestored. On my car?s boot lid the seal starts and ends at the boot hinge support bracket on the left side of the boot lid. To my wisdom on the steel lids it was glued in in two pieces and the ends to meet at the middle of both sides. Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Trunk Seal Datum: 2017-01-17T20:39:31+0100 Von: "warthodson at aol.com" An: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" , "rrengineer.mike at att.net" , "Healeys at autox.team.net" That is an interesting bit of trivia! I have an aluminum boot lid, but would like to know where the cut ends on both the alum & steel lids. Gary Hodson Where the cut ends up depends if it is a steel or aluminium boot lid. -----Original Message----- From: josef-eckert To: Michael MacLean ; Healeys, Forum Sent: Tue, Jan 17, 2017 12:56 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Trunk Seal Mike it is the correct seal for a 100 and the sharp edge goes to the outside. Where the cut ends up depends if it is a steel or aluminium boot lid. Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: [Healeys] Trunk Seal Datum: 2017-01-17T03:22:22+0100 Von: "Michael MacLean" Is this the correct cross section for the 100 trunk seal. Of course it is a Moss item I bought a few years ago. Just getting around to addressing the trunk area. Which side goes towards the inside of the trunk? All the way around in one piece? Where is the cut ends end up? Mike MacLean _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.salter at gmail.com Tue Jan 17 16:03:19 2017 From: michael.salter at gmail.com (michael.salter at gmail.com) Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2017 23:03:19 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Trunk Seal References: <1484646323975.4448354.4d4a0b38f185b0ce0962406affc9f453a3cd9a37@spica.telekom.de> <159adf0eb2f-7088-9d1e@webstg-a04.mail.aol.com> <1484685514844.2015879.17dcdc6b95c0096078f58c5afe036bca0de4bc3e@spica.telekom.de> Although this does not apply to Mike's BN2 there is a 3rd opinion regarding seals on aluminium boot lids. http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/2015/06/03/low-mileage-austin-healey-100-a-rare-opportunity-to-look-back/ Michael S BN1 #174 On Tue, Jan 17, 2017 at 5:59 PM -0500, "josef-eckert at t-online.de" wrote: Gary, As regards aluminium boot lid seals there are at least two strong opinions: ? One says there was no seal at all at the boot lid, but on the boot shroud opening. This might be only with very early 100s, but not confirmed. ? The other which I share (for cars built at least from early 1954), as my car was fitted with the seal on the aluminium boot lid when I bought it unrestored. On my car?s boot lid the seal starts and ends at the boot hinge support bracket on the left side of the boot lid. ? To my wisdom on the steel lids it was glued in in two pieces and the ends to meet at the middle of both sides. ? Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany ? ? ? ? -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Trunk Seal Datum: 2017-01-17T20:39:31+0100 Von: "warthodson at aol.com" An: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" , "rrengineer.mike at att.net" , "Healeys at autox.team.net" ? ? ? That is an interesting bit of trivia! I have an aluminum boot lid, but would like to know where the cut ends on both the alum & steel lids. Gary Hodson Where the cut ends up depends if it is a steel or aluminium boot lid. ? ? ? -----Original Message----- From: josef-eckert To: Michael MacLean ; Healeys, Forum Sent: Tue, Jan 17, 2017 12:56 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Trunk Seal Mike it is the correct seal for a 100 and the sharp edge goes to the outside. Where the cut ends up depends if it is a steel or aluminium boot lid. ? Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany ? ? ? -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: [Healeys] Trunk Seal Datum: 2017-01-17T03:22:22+0100 Von: "Michael MacLean" An: "Healeys Help" ? ? ? Is this the correct cross section for the 100 trunk seal.? Of course it is a Moss item I bought a few years ago.? Just getting around to addressing the trunk area.? Which side goes towards the inside of the trunk?? All the way around in one piece? Where is the cut ends end up? Mike MacLean ? _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Thu Jan 19 09:48:08 2017 From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com) Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2017 11:48:08 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 50 Top Vintage Racing Photos of 2016 Here are the top 50 Vintage Racing Photos of 2016 compiled by Sports Car Digest. There are even some Austin-Healeys in these photos. Enjoy. http://www.sportscardigest.com/best-vintage-car-racing-photo-2016/ Steven Kingsbury BN1 #598 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ahbn6 at verizon.net Thu Jan 19 12:26:07 2017 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2017 14:26:07 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] My site I am just about finished with the correction of broken links on my site. Thanks to John New, he identified 54 such links. I need help in finding the following: 1. A link to the New Mexico Healey Road Runners Club 2. I get errors when I try to access the modifiedhealey.org web site. What happened to it? Searches come up with nothing. 3. I have to correct four more State registration listings and I should be finished! John Sims Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu Jan 19 14:54:21 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2017 13:54:21 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] My site References: <000301d27289$e288ae20$a79a0a60$@verizon.net> Thank you so much for your time and efforts to maintain this great site Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Thu, Jan 19, 2017 at 11:26 AM, John Sims wrote: > I am just about finished with the correction of broken links on my site. > Thanks to John New, he identified 54 such links. I need help in finding the > following: > > > > 1. A link to the New Mexico Healey Road Runners Club > > 2. I get errors when I try to access the modifiedhealey.org web site. > What happened to it? Searches come up with nothing. > > 3. I have to correct four more State registration listings and I should > be finished! > > > > > > John Sims > > Aberdeen, NJ > > > > www.healey6.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From wjc3 at citlink.net Thu Jan 19 16:20:50 2017 From: wjc3 at citlink.net (wjc3 at citlink.net) Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2017 23:20:50 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] My site References: <2039817563.65535.1484868050768.ref@mail.yahoo.com> -------------------------------------------- On Thu, 1/19/17, i erbs wrote: Subject: Re: [Healeys] My site To: "John Sims" Cc: "Healey List" Date: Thursday, January 19, 2017, 4:54 PM Thank you so much for your time and efforts to maintain this great site Ira Erbs Portland,OR ? ? ? _______? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? _______ ? ???(______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) ? ? ? ???(_________________________) ? ? ? ? ? BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Thu, Jan 19, 2017 at 11:26 AM, John Sims wrote: > I am just about finished with the correction of broken links on my site. > Thanks to John New, he identified 54 such links. I need help in finding the > following: > > > > 1.???A link to the New Mexico Healey Road Runners Club > > 2.???I get errors when I try to access the modifiedhealey.org web site. > What happened to it? Searches come up with nothing. > > 3.???I have to correct four more State registration listings and I should > be finished! > > > > > > John Sims > > Aberdeen, NJ > > > > www.healey6.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -----Inline Attachment Follows----- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/wjc3 at citlink.net From rick at ewilkins.com Thu Jan 19 17:14:41 2017 From: rick at ewilkins.com (Rick Wilkins) Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2017 16:14:41 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] My site References: <000301d27289$e288ae20$a79a0a60$@verizon.net> Here they are! http://modifiedhealeys.org/ On Jan 19, 2017, at 11:26 AM, John Sims wrote: > I am just about finished with the correction of broken links on my site. Thanks to John New, he identified 54 such links. I need help in finding the following: > > 1. A link to the New Mexico Healey Road Runners Club > 2. I get errors when I try to access the modifiedhealey.org web site. What happened to it? Searches come up with nothing. > 3. I have to correct four more State registration listings and I should be finished! > > > John Sims > Aberdeen, NJ > > www.healey6.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rick at ewilkins.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Thu Jan 19 17:45:18 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2017 19:45:18 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] My site References: <000301d27289$e288ae20$a79a0a60$@verizon.net> John, Was nasty boy Healey site modifiedhealeys.org? That site exists, but there's not much there and nothing Healey related. I'm guessing that it was replaced by: http://www.themorans.org/mhealeys/ Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 01/19/2017 02:26 PM, John Sims wrote: > I am just about finished with the correction of broken links on my site. > Thanks to John New, he identified 54 such links. I need help in finding > the following: > > 1.A link to the New Mexico Healey Road Runners Club > > 2.I get errors when I try to access the modifiedhealey.org web site. > What happened to it? Searches come up with nothing. > > 3.I have to correct four more State registration listings and I should > be finished! > > John Sims > > Aberdeen, NJ > > www.healey6.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From ah3000me at gmail.com Thu Jan 19 18:03:52 2017 From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom) Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2017 20:03:52 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] My site References: <000301d27289$e288ae20$a79a0a60$@verizon.net> John, I think ModifiedHealey.org is ModifiedHealeys.org (add an "s"). It also looks like the owner let the domain or hosting expire. According to the About us link: About US > > ABOUT US > > Welcome to Modifiedhealeys > Modifiedhealeys.org is leading Tech > blog which provides quality information in ICT related issues like Web > technology, Web trends, Software development,Telecommunication,Mobile > Technology, Technology trends, Industry > watch,reviews,analysis,interviews,news.It is an online resource center that > offers practical solutions to populace whether you know about technology or > not. > The Wayback Machine last snapshot the website in October 2016: https://web.archive.org/web/20161006002136/http://modifiedhealeys.org/ - Tom On Thu, Jan 19, 2017 at 2:26 PM, John Sims wrote: > I am just about finished with the correction of broken links on my site. > Thanks to John New, he identified 54 such links. I need help in finding the > following: > > > > 1. A link to the New Mexico Healey Road Runners Club > > 2. I get errors when I try to access the modifiedhealey.org web site. > What happened to it? Searches come up with nothing. > > 3. I have to correct four more State registration listings and I should > be finished! > > > > > > John Sims > > Aberdeen, NJ > > > > www.healey6.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/ah3000me at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Thu Jan 19 19:12:07 2017 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2017 21:12:07 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] My site References: <000301d27289$e288ae20$a79a0a60$@verizon.net> Hi John, Thanks for doing this. Here's the modified Healey site: http://www.themorans.org/mhealeys/ Nasty Healeying, Rick Neville On Thu, Jan 19, 2017 at 2:26 PM, John Sims wrote: > I am just about finished with the correction of broken links on my site. > Thanks to John New, he identified 54 such links. I need help in finding the > following: > > > > 1. A link to the New Mexico Healey Road Runners Club > > 2. I get errors when I try to access the modifiedhealey.org web site. > What happened to it? Searches come up with nothing. > > 3. I have to correct four more State registration listings and I should > be finished! > > > > > > John Sims > > Aberdeen, NJ > > > > www.healey6.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From goldengt at cal.net Fri Jan 20 15:11:09 2017 From: goldengt at cal.net (goldengt) Date: Fri, 20 Jan 2017 14:11:09 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Revs Institute photos At the Revs Institute digital photo gallery there are 84 pages of old AH racing and road test pictures from both sides of the pondI like the 57 Sebring streamliner overhead shot with the bonnet open? Ken Freese? Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kentmclean at comcast.net Fri Jan 20 15:54:07 2017 From: kentmclean at comcast.net (Kent McLean) Date: Fri, 20 Jan 2017 17:54:07 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Model 75 Sportsboat on BaT Up or auction on Bring-a-Trailer. "Over $50k was reportedly spent on refurbishment costs?? http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1959-austin-healey-model-75-sportsboat/ - Kent McLean ?56 100 BN2 From gablegerry at netscape.net Fri Jan 20 17:45:09 2017 From: gablegerry at netscape.net (gablegerry at netscape.net) Date: Fri, 20 Jan 2017 19:45:09 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] wire harness The car is a BN6 No. 2344. Moss list a change to the Wire harness somewhere around 3459. Cannot find an explanation of why the change. The harness that came of was PVC with black plastic wrapping which I thought was original. would like to be as close as possible to original. Thanks Gerry -----Original Message----- From: Michael Salter To: gablegerry Cc: healeys Sent: Fri, Jan 13, 2017 1:49 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] wire harness Depends upon what you are trying to achieve. If you want to end up with a driver (20 foot) car that Aunt Mary describes as "cute" then whatever works will be just fine. If you are looking to end up with something that someone with some knowledge of classic car restoration will appreciate then replace the harness with one that closely replicates the original. You don't mention what model of Healey you are working on but originally it would have had cloth covered wire with a cloth covering on the harness (Pre Oct 58) or PVC insulated wires with a cloth harness outer cover after tht date. Michael S Concours Guidelines Committee On Thu, Jan 12, 2017 at 9:23 PM, wrote: Looking for an point of view. should one replace the wire harness that is braided or try to follow the original that appears to be PVC and banded together with black rap. The original is not that bad but again not that good. thanks can some who is on the MGT list know how to get on it? _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -- If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Fri Jan 20 21:07:05 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sat, 21 Jan 2017 04:07:05 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Revs Institute photos References: Ken,???? Thanks for that.? I was very interested in the Sprite Sebring pictures and the Bugeye road test pictures with John Bolton.? Also the Bugeye engine shots with the Shorrock supercharger.? Some real nice period stuff.Mike MacLean On Friday, January 20, 2017 3:15 PM, goldengt wrote: At the Revs Institute digital photo gallery there are 84 pages of old AH racing and road test pictures from both sides of the pondI like the 57 Sebring streamliner overhead shot with the bonnet open? Ken Freese? Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Sat Jan 21 05:58:19 2017 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Sat, 21 Jan 2017 07:58:19 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Revs Institute photos References: Great resource, Ken. Here's the link:https://revsinstitute.org/ And if you're ever in the Naples, FL area I highly recommend a visit to the Institute/Collier Collection. It's a great museum with a number of Briggs Cunnigham's cars. Another nice photo collection is Nigel Smuckatelli's: https://www.flickr.com/photos/smuckatelli/ Happy Healeying, Rick Neville On Fri, Jan 20, 2017 at 5:11 PM, goldengt wrote: > At the Revs Institute digital photo gallery there are 84 pages of old AH > racing and road test pictures from both sides of the pond > I like the 57 Sebring streamliner overhead shot with the bonnet open > > Ken Freese > > > > Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From josef-eckert at t-online.de Sat Jan 21 06:58:04 2017 From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de) Date: Sat, 21 Jan 2017 14:58:04 +0100 (MET) Subject: [Healeys] wire harness References: <159be7becf4-2c27-3d4c@webstg-m05.mail.aol.com> Black plastic wrapping isn?t original. It should be a cotton braided loom. Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: Re: [Healeys] wire harness Datum: 2017-01-21T02:30:40+0100 Von: "gablegerry at netscape.net" An: "michaelsalter at gmail.com" The car is a BN6 No. 2344. Moss list a change to the Wire harness somewhere around 3459. Cannot find an explanation of why the change. The harness that came of was PVC with black plastic wrapping which I thought was original. would like to be as close as possible to original. Thanks Gerry -----Original Message----- From: Michael Salter To: gablegerry Cc: healeys Sent: Fri, Jan 13, 2017 1:49 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] wire harness Depends upon what you are trying to achieve. If you want to end up with a driver (20 foot) car that Aunt Mary describes as "cute" then whatever works will be just fine. If you are looking to end up with something that someone with some knowledge of classic car restoration will appreciate then replace the harness with one that closely replicates the original. You don't mention what model of Healey you are working on but originally it would have had cloth covered wire with a cloth covering on the harness (Pre Oct 58) or PVC insulated wires with a cloth harness outer cover after tht date. Michael S Concours Guidelines Committee On Thu, Jan 12, 2017 at 9:23 PM, Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com -- If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem. ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From lawrence.swift at gmail.com Sat Jan 21 07:48:07 2017 From: lawrence.swift at gmail.com (Lawrence Swift) Date: Sat, 21 Jan 2017 09:48:07 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] wire harness References: <159be7becf4-2c27-3d4c@webstg-m05.mail.aol.com> <1485007084643.2357320.2c18d682484df0473997b62ed65770e4507e3002@spica.telekom.de> check Rhode Island Wire > On Jan 21, 2017, at 8:58 AM, josef-eckert at t-online.de wrote: > > Black plastic wrapping isn?t original. It should be a cotton braided loom. > > Josef Eckert > K?nigswinter/Germany > > > > -----Original-Nachricht----- > Betreff: Re: [Healeys] wire harness > Datum: 2017-01-21T02:30:40+0100 > Von: "gablegerry at netscape.net" > An: "michaelsalter at gmail.com" > > > > The car is a BN6 No. 2344. Moss list a change to the Wire harness somewhere around 3459. Cannot find an explanation of why the change. The harness that came of was PVC with black plastic wrapping which I thought was original. would like to be as close as possible to original. > Thanks > Gerry > -----Original Message----- > From: Michael Salter > To: gablegerry > Cc: healeys > Sent: Fri, Jan 13, 2017 1:49 pm > Subject: Re: [Healeys] wire harness > > Depends upon what you are trying to achieve. > If you want to end up with a driver (20 foot) car that Aunt Mary describes as "cute" then whatever works will be just fine. > If you are looking to end up with something that someone with some knowledge of classic car restoration will appreciate then replace the harness with one that closely replicates the original. > You don't mention what model of Healey you are working on but originally it would have had cloth covered wire with a cloth covering on the harness (Pre Oct 58) or PVC insulated wires with a cloth harness outer cover after tht date. > Michael S > Concours Guidelines Committee > > > > Looking for an point of view. should one replace the wire harness that is braided or try to follow the original that appears to be PVC and banded together with black rap. The original is not that bad but again not that good. > thanks > can some who is on the MGT list know how to get on it? > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > > -- > If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem. > > > > > ? > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jstmorris at yahoo.com Sat Jan 21 08:17:45 2017 From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris) Date: Sat, 21 Jan 2017 15:17:45 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Revs Institute photos References: Good Day Ken.? As I have mentioned before, this is a fantastic photo resource.? Back in Nov 2015 there were 742 photos of AustinHealey.? Now there are ?838 photos.?Photos are constantly being added. ?You may also wish to search for just ?Healey?.? You can also search for other words like ?BMC?and ?BMC Competition Department?.? The Marcus Chambers Photograph Collection isfantastic.? Attached are two files thatmay be of interest.?--Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives On Friday, January 20, 2017 6:15 PM, goldengt wrote: At the Revs Institute digital photo gallery there are 84 pages of old AH racing and road test pictures from both sides of the pondI like the 57 Sebring streamliner overhead shot with the bonnet open? Ken Freese? Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Revs Digital Library at Stanford Univ Libraries.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 384904 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: marcus chambers RevsLib collection 243.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 1830204 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Sat Jan 21 09:53:59 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Sat, 21 Jan 2017 11:53:59 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] wire harness References: <159be7becf4-2c27-3d4c@webstg-m05.mail.aol.com> British Wiring reps Auto Sparks from the UK. http://www.britishwiring.com/category-s/86.htm Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 01/20/2017 07:45 PM, gablegerry at netscape.net wrote: > The car is a BN6 No. 2344. Moss list a change to the Wire harness > somewhere around 3459. Cannot find an explanation of why the change. > The harness that came of was PVC with black plastic wrapping which I > thought was original. would like to be as close as possible to original. > Thanks > Gerry > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Michael Salter > To: gablegerry > Cc: healeys > Sent: Fri, Jan 13, 2017 1:49 pm > Subject: Re: [Healeys] wire harness > > Depends upon what you are trying to achieve. > If you want to end up with a driver (20 foot) car that Aunt Mary > describes as "cute" then whatever works will be just fine. > If you are looking to end up with something that someone with some > knowledge of classic car restoration will appreciate then replace the > harness with one that closely replicates the original. > You don't mention what model of Healey you are working on but originally > it would have had cloth covered wire with a cloth covering on the > harness (Pre Oct 58) or PVC insulated wires with a cloth harness outer > cover after tht date. > Michael S > Concours Guidelines Committee > > > On Thu, Jan 12, 2017 at 9:23 PM, > > Looking for an point of view. should one replace the wire > harness that is braided or try to follow the original that appears > to be PVC and banded together with black rap. The original is not > that bad but again not that good. > thanks > can some who is on the MGT list know how to get on it? > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > > > > > -- > /If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem./ > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From goldengt at cal.net Sat Jan 21 10:33:09 2017 From: goldengt at cal.net (goldengt) Date: Sat, 21 Jan 2017 09:33:09 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Revs Institute photos I will be there next month.?Ken? Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------- Original message --------From: HealeyRick Date: 1/21/17 4:58 AM (GMT-08:00) To: goldengt Cc: Austin Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Revs Institute photos Great resource, Ken. Here's the link:https://revsinstitute.org/ ?And if you're ever in the Naples, FL area I highly recommend a visit to the Institute/Collier Collection.? It's a great museum with a number of Briggs Cunnigham's cars.? Another nice photo collection is Nigel Smuckatelli's: ?https://www.flickr.com/photos/smuckatelli/ Happy Healeying,Rick Neville On Fri, Jan 20, 2017 at 5:11 PM, goldengt wrote: At the Revs Institute digital photo gallery there are 84 pages of old AH racing and road test pictures from both sides of the pondI like the 57 Sebring streamliner overhead shot with the bonnet open? Ken Freese? Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From andersonfoot at msn.com Sat Jan 21 16:12:25 2017 From: andersonfoot at msn.com (Charles Anderson) Date: Sat, 21 Jan 2017 23:12:25 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Boat Could you post this? I'm trying to help my dad sell his Healey boat. Thanks, Chuck Anderson Healey Sportsboat seen for sale on Bring a Trailer http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1959-austin-healey-model-75-sportsboat/ [http://13252-presscdn-0-94.pagely.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/Screen-Shot-2017-01-18-at-9.38.12-AM.png] 1959 Healey Model 75 Sports Boat bringatrailer.com This 1959 Healey Model 75 "Sports Boat" is a 16-foot fiberglass model with a wood deck and rebuilt 1,500cc inboard motor. Said to be one of 8 in the USA, it was purchased by the seller in 2000 in England and treated to a refurbishment before being shipped here in 2009. Its sale includes an -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dwflagg at juno.com Sun Jan 22 07:40:38 2017 From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com) Date: Sun, 22 Jan 2017 14:40:38 GMT Subject: [Healeys] Keith Taylor Keith, I believe you have been hacked. ____________________________________________________________ Affordable Wireless Plans Set up is easy. Get online in minutes. Starting at only $14.95 per month! www.netzero.net?refcd=nzmem0216 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Jan 22 10:39:09 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 22 Jan 2017 09:39:09 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] OT (no Healey content) I suspect Healey drivers are 'aware of the inherent dangers of driving': http://jalopnik.com/theres-actually-a-name-for-a-steering-wheel-with-a-big-1791445206 From dwflagg at juno.com Sun Jan 22 19:42:49 2017 From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com) Date: Mon, 23 Jan 2017 02:42:49 GMT Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 Tach Would anyone have a nice 100/4 tach case for sale or trade? Please contact off the list. Thanks. Cheers, Doug ____________________________________________________________ Megyn Kelly Already Has Nbc Furious - You Won't Believe Why theright-side.com http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/58856dc14a2fb6dc13956st52duc -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From josef-eckert at t-online.de Mon Jan 23 09:27:49 2017 From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de) Date: Mon, 23 Jan 2017 17:27:49 +0100 (MET) Subject: [Healeys] More than 3000 Factory 100Ms Just heart there is an alternative fact that there are more than 3000 Factory 100Ms still exist.[cool] Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: smiley-cool.gif Type: image/gif Size: 354 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Mon Jan 23 09:40:55 2017 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Mon, 23 Jan 2017 11:40:55 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] More than 3000 Factory 100Ms References: <1485188869759.5386833.cfec1d106167a7bcbf1258b1c02f69435f742ea4@spica.telekom.de> Thea sounds like false news to me....at my last count there were only 2761 .....Mind you that number is increasing rapidly :-) Michael S BN1 #174 On Mon, Jan 23, 2017 at 11:27 AM, josef-eckert at t-online.de < josef-eckert at t-online.de> wrote: > Just heart there is an alternative fact that there are more than 3000 > Factory 100Ms still exist.[image: cool] > > > > Josef Eckert > > K?nigswinter/Germany > ? > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > > -- *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: smiley-cool.gif Type: image/gif Size: 354 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ah100register at gmail.com Mon Jan 23 09:48:39 2017 From: ah100register at gmail.com (John Harper) Date: Mon, 23 Jan 2017 16:48:39 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] More than 3000 Factory 100Ms References: <1485188869759.5386833.cfec1d106167a7bcbf1258b1c02f69435f742ea4@spica.telekom.de> What a load of rubbish! There might be a large number of conversions but not originals. Conversions should be call Le Mans. John Harper AHC UK 100 Register Secretary On 23 January 2017 at 16:27, josef-eckert at t-online.de < josef-eckert at t-online.de> wrote: > Just heart there is an alternative fact that there are more than 3000 > Factory 100Ms still exist.[image: cool] > > > > Josef Eckert > > K?nigswinter/Germany > ? > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com > > > -- Best wishes John Harper AHC UK 100 Register Secretary -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: smiley-cool.gif Type: image/gif Size: 354 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Mon Jan 23 10:14:11 2017 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Mon, 23 Jan 2017 12:14:11 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] SU carb reamer needed I have H6 carbs on my 100 Le Mans and the 5/16" throttle shafts are loose. I would like to go ream out the bodies and go to the oversized .320" throttle shafts. Moss wants $270.00 for the reaming tool and I do not anticipate I will need to do this job again during my lifetime. Does anyone have one of these they would be willing to loan or rent? Best--Michael Oritt -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.salter at gmail.com Mon Jan 23 10:59:50 2017 From: michael.salter at gmail.com (michael.salter at gmail.com) Date: Mon, 23 Jan 2017 17:59:50 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] More than 3000 Factory 100Ms References: <1485188869759.5386833.cfec1d106167a7bcbf1258b1c02f69435f742ea4@spica.telekom.de> Quite true John and, fortunately, regarding "M" s there are are a good number of people around with the knowledge to correctly? identify an original. Michael S BN1 #174 On Mon, Jan 23, 2017 at 12:46 PM -0500, "John Harper" wrote: What a load of rubbish! There might be a large number of conversions but not originals. Conversions should be call Le Mans.? John Harper AHC UK 100 Register Secretary On 23 January 2017 at 16:27, josef-eckert at t-online.de wrote: Just heart there is an alternative fact that there are more than 3000 Factory 100Ms still exist. ? Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany? _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -- Best wishes John Harper AHC UK 100 Register Secretary -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: smiley-cool.gif Type: image/gif Size: 354 bytes Desc: not available URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Jan 23 11:37:24 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Mon, 23 Jan 2017 10:37:24 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] More than 3000 Factory 100Ms References: <1485188869759.5386833.cfec1d106167a7bcbf1258b1c02f69435f742ea4@spica.telekom.de> He was calling attention to the Trump speak "Just heart there is an alternative fact" an alternative fact is Trumps way of saying he lied without admitting it. I think this is political satire form a Teutonic view Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Mon, Jan 23, 2017 at 8:48 AM, John Harper wrote: > What a load of rubbish! There might be a large number of conversions but > not originals. Conversions should be call Le Mans. > > John Harper > > AHC UK 100 Register Secretary > > On 23 January 2017 at 16:27, josef-eckert at t-online.de < > josef-eckert at t-online.de> wrote: > >> Just heart there is an alternative fact that there are more than 3000 >> Factory 100Ms still exist.[image: cool] >> >> >> >> Josef Eckert >> >> K?nigswinter/Germany >> ? >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com >> >> >> > > > -- > Best wishes > > John Harper > > AHC UK 100 Register Secretary > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: smiley-cool.gif Type: image/gif Size: 354 bytes Desc: not available URL: From warthodson at aol.com Mon Jan 23 11:46:23 2017 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Mon, 23 Jan 2017 13:46:23 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] More than 3000 Factory 100Ms I know for a fact that my BN1 is a 100M. Please add it to your list. Anyone who says differently is a liar. Thanks, Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Michael Salter To: josef-eckert Cc: Healeys, Forum Sent: Mon, Jan 23, 2017 11:24 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] More than 3000 Factory 100Ms Thea sounds like false news to me....at my last count there were only 2761 .....Mind you that number is increasing rapidly :-) Michael S BN1 #174 On Mon, Jan 23, 2017 at 11:27 AM, josef-eckert at t-online.de wrote: Just heart there is an alternative fact that there are more than 3000 Factory 100Ms still exist. Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany ? _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -- If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem. _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: smiley-cool.gif Type: image/gif Size: 354 bytes Desc: not available URL: From josef-eckert at t-online.de Mon Jan 23 11:50:18 2017 From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de) Date: Mon, 23 Jan 2017 19:50:18 +0100 (MET) Subject: [Healeys] More than 3000 Factory 100Ms References: <159cca68883-7668-b514@webstg-m07.mail.aol.com> Is that true or alternative true? Now I am puzzled. Josef Eckert K?nigswinter Germany -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: Re: [Healeys] More than 3000 Factory 100Ms Datum: 2017-01-23T19:46:34+0100 Von: "warthodson at aol.com" An: "michaelsalter at gmail.com" , "josef-eckert at t-online.de" I know for a fact that my BN1 is a 100M. Please add it to your list. Anyone who says differently is a liar. Thanks, Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Michael Salter To: josef-eckert Cc: Healeys, Forum Sent: Mon, Jan 23, 2017 11:24 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] More than 3000 Factory 100Ms Thea sounds like false news to me....at my last count there were only 2761 .....Mind you that number is increasing rapidly :-) Michael S BN1 #174 On Mon, Jan 23, 2017 at 11:27 AM, josef-eckert at t-online.de Just heart there is an alternative fact that there are more than 3000 Factory 100Ms still exist.[cool] Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com -- If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem. _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: smiley-cool.gif Type: image/gif Size: 354 bytes Desc: not available URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Mon Jan 23 11:57:06 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Mon, 23 Jan 2017 13:57:06 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] More than 3000 Factory 100Ms References: <1485188869759.5386833.cfec1d106167a7bcbf1258b1c02f69435f742ea4@spica.telekom.de> John, I think Josef's point was that (similar to one of Mr. Trump's "alternative facts"), 3000 M's are being claimed whereas we all know only 640 were originally built. That's like the 99% of all BJ8s in existence being "1967s" no matter what year they were built. winking0001.gif Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Harper Sent: Monday, January 23, 2017 11:49 AM To: josef-eckert at t-online.de Cc: Healeys, Forum Subject: Re: [Healeys] More than 3000 Factory 100Ms What a load of rubbish! There might be a large number of conversions but not originals. Conversions should be call Le Mans. John Harper AHC UK 100 Register Secretary On 23 January 2017 at 16:27, josef-eckert at t-online.de wrote: Just heart there is an alternative fact that there are more than 3000 Factory 100Ms still exist.cool Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany ? -- Best wishes John Harper AHC UK 100 Register Secretary _____ No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2016.0.7996 / Virus Database: 4749/13781 - Release Date: 01/16/17 Internal Virus Database is out of date. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.gif Type: image/gif Size: 696 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.gif Type: image/gif Size: 354 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Jan 23 12:02:08 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 23 Jan 2017 11:02:08 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] SU carb reamer needed References: I don't have a reamer, but many moons ago I sent HD8 carb bodies to Apple Hydraulics for installation of new bushes--std. size IIRC--and throttle shafts (I think the bushes were undersize then reamed, but not sure). Was happy with result, service and turnaround time (NFI--but if Apple wants to give me a kickback I'll take it). Don't know if WW Auto (Peter Caldwell) does this, but they'd be a good bet if they do, too. If you go oversize, will the shafts still fit the other hardware (linkages, etc.)? bs On 1/23/2017 9:14 AM, Michael Oritt wrote: > I have H6 carbs on my 100 Le Mans and the 5/16" throttle shafts are > loose. I would like to go ream out the bodies and go to the oversized > .320" throttle shafts. Moss wants $270.00 for the reaming tool and I > do not anticipate I will need to do this job again during my > lifetime. Does anyone have one of these they would be willing to loan > or rent? > > Best--Michael Oritt > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From austinhealeyslist at gmail.com Mon Jan 23 13:02:09 2017 From: austinhealeyslist at gmail.com (Austin Healeys List) Date: Tue, 24 Jan 2017 09:02:09 +1300 Subject: [Healeys] SU carb reamer needed References: Valve guide reamers are pretty cheap http://www.ebay.com/itm/152401791266 You can usually pull them backwards through the carb and use the handle as a pilot so the holes are aligned. All the linkages have to be reamed out too. Alternatively you can drill out the old brass bushings and install ptfe lined DU bushings per the SU/Burlen recommended overhaul procedure and use stock shaft size. A 3/8 reamer with the handle turned down to 5/16 is perfect for installing these bushings. Andy. On 1/24/17, Michael Oritt wrote: > I have H6 carbs on my 100 Le Mans and the 5/16" throttle shafts are loose. > I would like to go ream out the bodies and go to the oversized .320" > throttle shafts. Moss wants $270.00 for the reaming tool and I do not > anticipate I will need to do this job again during my lifetime. Does > anyone have one of these they would be willing to loan or rent? > > Best--Michael Oritt > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: DSC09277.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 92643 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeydoc at gmail.com Mon Jan 23 13:11:26 2017 From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock) Date: Mon, 23 Jan 2017 12:11:26 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] SU carb reamer needed References: Why not contact Joe Curto you cant be more than a couple of hours from him. David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 209 948 8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: Michael Oritt Sent: Monday, January 23, 2017 9:14 AM To: Austin Healey Subject: [Healeys] SU carb reamer needed I have H6 carbs on my 100 Le Mans and the 5/16" throttle shafts are loose. I would like to go ream out the bodies and go to the oversized .320" throttle shafts. Moss wants $270.00 for the reaming tool and I do not anticipate I will need to do this job again during my lifetime. Does anyone have one of these they would be willing to loan or rent? Best--Michael Oritt -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Mon Jan 23 16:15:04 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Mon, 23 Jan 2017 23:15:04 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] SU carb reamer needed References: Might be a better idea to send out the bodies to someone like Joe Curto and have them reamed and re-bushed for a standard shaft.? Mike MacLean On Monday, January 23, 2017 11:06 AM, Michael Oritt wrote: I have H6 carbs on my 100 Le Mans and the 5/16" throttle shafts are loose.? I would like to go ream out the bodies and go to the oversized .320" throttle shafts.? Moss wants $270.00 for the reaming tool and I do not anticipate I will need to do this job again during my lifetime.? Does anyone have one of these they would be willing to loan or rent? Best--Michael Oritt ? _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From stmiller96 at hotmail.com Mon Jan 23 16:44:09 2017 From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller) Date: Mon, 23 Jan 2017 23:44:09 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Mike Oritt- needing carb reaming tool References: Mike I have one you can borrow. Contact me at stmiller96 at hotmail.com Shawn The Millers "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From derek.c.job at gmail.com Tue Jan 24 00:30:30 2017 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Tue, 24 Jan 2017 07:30:30 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] More than 3000 Factory 100Ms References: <1485188869759.5386833.cfec1d106167a7bcbf1258b1c02f69435f742ea4@spica.telekom.de> <030001d275aa$7e5adda0$7b1098e0$@rr.com> Keep politics out of the list. On Mon, Jan 23, 2017 at 6:57 PM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > John, I think Josef's point was that (similar to one of Mr. Trump's > "alternative facts"), 3000 M's are being claimed whereas we all know only > 640 were originally built. > > That's like the 99% of all BJ8s in existence being "1967s" no matter what > year they were built. [image: winking0001.gif] > > > > Steve Byers > > HBJ8L/36666 > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > Havelock, NC > > > > > > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *John > Harper > *Sent:* Monday, January 23, 2017 11:49 AM > *To:* josef-eckert at t-online.de > *Cc:* Healeys, Forum > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] More than 3000 Factory 100Ms > > > > What a load of rubbish! There might be a large number of conversions but > not originals. Conversions should be call Le Mans. > > > > John Harper > > > > AHC UK 100 Register Secretary > > > > On 23 January 2017 at 16:27, josef-eckert at t-online.de < > josef-eckert at t-online.de> wrote: > > Just heart there is an alternative fact that there are more than 3000 > Factory 100Ms still exist.[image: cool] > > > > Josef Eckert > > K?nigswinter/Germany > > ? > > > > > > > > -- > > Best wishes > > > > John Harper > > > > AHC UK 100 Register Secretary > ------------------------------ > > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 2016.0.7996 / Virus Database: 4749/13781 - Release Date: 01/16/17 > Internal Virus Database is out of date. > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.gif Type: image/gif Size: 696 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.gif Type: image/gif Size: 354 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue Jan 24 01:28:55 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 24 Jan 2017 08:28:55 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] More than 3000 Factory 100Ms References: <1485188869759.5386833.cfec1d106167a7bcbf1258b1c02f69435f742ea4@spica.telekom.de> <030001d275aa$7e5adda0$7b1098e0$@rr.com> It would be nice if you would refrain from the political jibes.? This is the Healey list.? You can go on Facebook and make all the statements you would like to, this is not the forum for them.? The possibility of alienating some members of the list is something that should be avoided.? Don't assume everyone thinks the way you do or wants to hear what your political leanings are.? Personally I am tired of all the election crap and I don't want four years more of it.? Back to Healeys, please. On Monday, January 23, 2017 11:55 PM, Derek Job wrote: Keep politics out of the list. On Mon, Jan 23, 2017 at 6:57 PM, BJ8Healeys wrote: John, I think Josef's point was that (similar to one of Mr. Trump's "alternative facts"), 3000 M's are being claimed whereas we all know only 640 were originally built.That's like the 99% of all BJ8s in existence being "1967s" no matter what year they were built. ?Steve ByersHBJ8L/36666BJ8 RegistryAHCA Delegate at LargeHavelock, NC? ??From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox. team.net] On Behalf Of John Harper Sent: Monday, January 23, 2017 11:49 AM To: josef-eckert at t-online.de Cc: Healeys, Forum Subject: Re: [Healeys] More than 3000 Factory 100Ms?What a load of rubbish! There might be a large number of conversions but not originals. Conversions should be call Le Mans.??John Harper?AHC UK 100 Register Secretary?On 23 January 2017 at 16:27, josef-eckert at t-online.de wrote:Just heart there is an alternative fact that there are more than 3000 Factory 100Ms still exist.?Josef EckertK?nigswinter/Germany? ?-- Best wishes?John Harper?AHC UK 100 Register SecretaryNo virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2016.0.7996 / Virus Database: 4749/13781 - Release Date: 01/16/17 Internal Virus Database is out of date. ______________________________ _________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/ listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.gif Type: image/gif Size: 696 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.gif Type: image/gif Size: 354 bytes Desc: not available URL: From nmcd10 at gmail.com Tue Jan 24 04:55:48 2017 From: nmcd10 at gmail.com (Neil McDonald) Date: Tue, 24 Jan 2017 11:55:48 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] SU carb reamer needed References: <1907327788.2172939.1485213304768@mail.yahoo.com> With adequate resources it's clear that addressing both the shaft and bushing would be the optimum solution. However as an impoverished student over 50 years ago I recall changing out the throttle shafts on my Sprite, at minimal cost, convincing myself that this made a difference! Joe Curto wants around $500 to rebuild a pair of SUs. Now as a retiree I have more resources but still need to manage how much money I spend on my hobby. If the wear is limited, maybe shaft replacement only might be cost effective? _____________________ Neil McDonald BN6 Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com > On 23 Jan 2017, at 23:15, Michael MacLean wrote: > > Might be a better idea to send out the bodies to someone like Joe Curto and have them reamed and re-bushed for a standard shaft. > Mike MacLean > > > On Monday, January 23, 2017 11:06 AM, Michael Oritt wrote: > > > I have H6 carbs on my 100 Le Mans and the 5/16" throttle shafts are loose. I would like to go ream out the bodies and go to the oversized .320" throttle shafts. Moss wants $270.00 for the reaming tool and I do not anticipate I will need to do this job again during my lifetime. Does anyone have one of these they would be willing to loan or rent? > > Best--Michael Oritt > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/nmcd10 at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Tue Jan 24 06:58:46 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Tue, 24 Jan 2017 05:58:46 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] More than 3000 Factory 100Ms References: <1485188869759.5386833.cfec1d106167a7bcbf1258b1c02f69435f742ea4@spica.telekom.de> <030001d275aa$7e5adda0$7b1098e0$@rr.com> ? Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes Portland,OR On Jan 24, 2017 12:00 AM, "Derek Job" wrote: > Keep politics out of the list. > > On Mon, Jan 23, 2017 at 6:57 PM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > >> John, I think Josef's point was that (similar to one of Mr. Trump's >> "alternative facts"), 3000 M's are being claimed whereas we all know only >> 640 were originally built. >> >> That's like the 99% of all BJ8s in existence being "1967s" no matter what >> year they were built. [image: winking0001.gif] >> >> >> >> Steve Byers >> >> HBJ8L/36666 >> >> BJ8 Registry >> >> AHCA Delegate at Large >> >> Havelock, NC >> >> >> >> >> >> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *John >> Harper >> *Sent:* Monday, January 23, 2017 11:49 AM >> *To:* josef-eckert at t-online.de >> *Cc:* Healeys, Forum >> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] More than 3000 Factory 100Ms >> >> >> >> What a load of rubbish! There might be a large number of conversions but >> not originals. Conversions should be call Le Mans. >> >> >> >> John Harper >> >> >> >> AHC UK 100 Register Secretary >> >> >> >> On 23 January 2017 at 16:27, josef-eckert at t-online.de < >> josef-eckert at t-online.de> wrote: >> >> Just heart there is an alternative fact that there are more than 3000 >> Factory 100Ms still exist.[image: cool] >> >> >> >> Josef Eckert >> >> K?nigswinter/Germany >> >> ? >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> -- >> >> Best wishes >> >> >> >> John Harper >> >> >> >> AHC UK 100 Register Secretary >> ------------------------------ >> >> No virus found in this message. >> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >> Version: 2016.0.7996 / Virus Database: 4749/13781 - Release Date: 01/16/17 >> Internal Virus Database is out of date. >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com >> >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.gif Type: image/gif Size: 696 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.gif Type: image/gif Size: 354 bytes Desc: not available URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Tue Jan 24 07:30:06 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Tue, 24 Jan 2017 06:30:06 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] SU carb reamer needed References: <1907327788.2172939.1485213304768@mail.yahoo.com> <01B049C3-8DA6-499C-A315-FD23812245F8@gmail.com> Get standard bushings and have a local machine shop drill the body and insert the bushings or insert them yourself. John BT7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Neil McDonald Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2017 3:56 AM To: Michael MacLean Cc: Austin Healey Subject: Re: [Healeys] SU carb reamer needed With adequate resources it's clear that addressing both the shaft and bushing would be the optimum solution. However as an impoverished student over 50 years ago I recall changing out the throttle shafts on my Sprite, at minimal cost, convincing myself that this made a difference! Joe Curto wants around $500 to rebuild a pair of SUs. Now as a retiree I have more resources but still need to manage how much money I spend on my hobby. If the wear is limited, maybe shaft replacement only might be cost effective? _____________________ Neil McDonald BN6 Might be a better idea to send out the bodies to someone like Joe Curto and have them reamed and re-bushed for a standard shaft. Mike MacLean I have H6 carbs on my 100 Le Mans and the 5/16" throttle shafts are loose. I would like to go ream out the bodies and go to the oversized .320" throttle shafts. Moss wants $270.00 for the reaming tool and I do not anticipate I will need to do this job again during my lifetime. Does anyone have one of these they would be willing to loan or rent? Best--Michael Oritt _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kentmclean at comcast.net Tue Jan 24 07:59:13 2017 From: kentmclean at comcast.net (Kent McLean) Date: Tue, 24 Jan 2017 09:59:13 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Model 75 Sportsboat on BaT References: $50K to refurbish it, and bidding is less than $5K with 2 days to go. You could own a bargain! - Dad > I wrote: > > Up or auction on Bring-a-Trailer. "Over $50k was reportedly spent on refurbishment costs?? > > http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1959-austin-healey-model-75-sportsboat/ > > - > Kent McLean > ?56 100 BN2 > From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Tue Jan 24 10:03:50 2017 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Tue, 24 Jan 2017 17:03:50 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Model 75 Sportsboat on BaT References: , <5F1B8D56-C469-42D7-97E2-8FF47D79459D@comcast.net> Either it would be a great deal or there is no market for old boats, Healey ones or not. Jean ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Kent McLean Sent: January 24, 2017 2:59 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Model 75 Sportsboat on BaT $50K to refurbish it, and bidding is less than $5K with 2 days to go. You could own a bargain! - Dad > I wrote: > > Up or auction on Bring-a-Trailer. "Over $50k was reportedly spent on refurbishment costs..." > > http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1959-austin-healey-model-75-sportsboat/ [http://13252-presscdn-0-94.pagely.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/Screen-Shot-2017-01-18-at-9.38.12-AM.png] 1959 Healey Model 75 Sports Boat bringatrailer.com This 1959 Healey Model 75 "Sports Boat" is a 16-foot fiberglass model with a wood deck and rebuilt 1,500cc inboard motor. Said to be one of 8 in the USA, it was purchased by the seller in 2000 in England and treated to a refurbishment before being shipped here in 2009. Its sale includes an > > - > Kent McLean > '56 100 BN2 > _______________________________________________ www.team.net www.team.net The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Tue Jan 24 10:47:19 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Tue, 24 Jan 2017 09:47:19 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Model 75 Sportsboat on BaT References: <5F1B8D56-C469-42D7-97E2-8FF47D79459D@comcast.net> Great deal, If I had a place to store it inside. Plus who knows how much to ship across the country Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Tue, Jan 24, 2017 at 9:03 AM, Jean Caron < vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com> wrote: > Either it would be a great deal or there is no market for old boats, > Healey ones or not. > > > Jean > > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys on behalf of Kent McLean > > *Sent:* January 24, 2017 2:59 PM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Healey Model 75 Sportsboat on BaT > > $50K to refurbish it, and bidding is less than $5K with 2 days to go. You > could own a bargain! > > - Dad > > > I wrote: > > > > Up or auction on Bring-a-Trailer. "Over $50k was reportedly spent on > refurbishment costs?? > > > > http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1959-austin-healey-model-75-sportsboat/ > > 1959 Healey Model 75 Sports Boat > > bringatrailer.com > This 1959 Healey Model 75 "Sports Boat" is a 16-foot fiberglass model with > a wood deck and rebuilt 1,500cc inboard motor. Said to be one of 8 in the > USA, it was purchased by the seller in 2000 in England and treated to a > refurbishment before being shipped here in 2009. Its sale includes an > > > > > - > > Kent McLean > > ?56 100 BN2 > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > www.team.net > www.team.net > The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time > volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network > connection, name ... > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/vintage_ > roadster_restoration at hotmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bengaard at 850r.dk Tue Jan 24 11:09:20 2017 From: bengaard at 850r.dk (Niels Bengaard) Date: Tue, 24 Jan 2017 19:09:20 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] SU carb reamer needed References: <1907327788.2172939.1485213304768@mail.yahoo.com> <01B049C3-8DA6-499C-A315-FD23812245F8@gmail.com> <000001d2764e$5d26b470$17741d50$@sbcglobal.net> I had a machineshop ream my HD8 carbs and rebush them 5 years ago. I recall they say in the manual that comes with the set that you aren?t supposed to drill straight through, but drill from both sides and leave some material. That took a bit more time to align, but it was possible. He used a reamer for both the outside of the bushes and the inside. http://healey.850r.dk/albums/Picture%20Album/album/Carburettors/index.html Niels Fra: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] P? vegne af John Spaur Sendt: 24. januar 2017 15:30 Til: 'Neil McDonald'; 'Michael MacLean' Cc: 'Austin Healey' Emne: Re: [Healeys] SU carb reamer needed Get standard bushings and have a local machine shop drill the body and insert the bushings or insert them yourself. John BT7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Neil McDonald Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2017 3:56 AM To: Michael MacLean Cc: Austin Healey Subject: Re: [Healeys] SU carb reamer needed With adequate resources it's clear that addressing both the shaft and bushing would be the optimum solution. However as an impoverished student over 50 years ago I recall changing out the throttle shafts on my Sprite, at minimal cost, convincing myself that this made a difference! Joe Curto wants around $500 to rebuild a pair of SUs. Now as a retiree I have more resources but still need to manage how much money I spend on my hobby. If the wear is limited, maybe shaft replacement only might be cost effective? _____________________ Neil McDonald BN6 Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com On 23 Jan 2017, at 23:15, Michael MacLean wrote: Might be a better idea to send out the bodies to someone like Joe Curto and have them reamed and re-bushed for a standard shaft. Mike MacLean On Monday, January 23, 2017 11:06 AM, Michael Oritt wrote: I have H6 carbs on my 100 Le Mans and the 5/16" throttle shafts are loose. I would like to go ream out the bodies and go to the oversized .320" throttle shafts. Moss wants $270.00 for the reaming tool and I do not anticipate I will need to do this job again during my lifetime. Does anyone have one of these they would be willing to loan or rent? Best--Michael Oritt _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From frogeye at porterscustom.com Tue Jan 24 13:42:21 2017 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Tue, 24 Jan 2017 13:42:21 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100 grille surround Does anyone in the group have a reasonably good condition one they will part with? Customer seems to have his. Sigh.. DaveP From austinhealeyslist at gmail.com Tue Jan 24 14:05:50 2017 From: austinhealeyslist at gmail.com (Austin Healeys List) Date: Wed, 25 Jan 2017 10:05:50 +1300 Subject: [Healeys] SU carb reamer needed References: <1907327788.2172939.1485213304768@mail.yahoo.com> <01B049C3-8DA6-499C-A315-FD23812245F8@gmail.com> <000001d2764e$5d26b470$17741d50$@sbcglobal.net> <006001d2766c$fc881d10$f5985730$@dk> An m9 x 0.75mm tap threads nicely into the brass bush and with a bit of heat from a blowtorch and a some hammering on a pin punch from the other side, the bushing will come right out. The brass bushings are ridged around the outside and just require a cleanup lick in the bore with a 3/8 reamer before installing the DU bushings. The secret to getting the reaming aligned is to use a 3/8 reamer backwards with the handle section piloted in the opposite side hole. I can't believe people charge $500 per carb to have this done when it only requires some basic hand tools. Andy. On 1/25/17, Niels Bengaard wrote: > I had a machineshop ream my HD8 carbs and rebush them 5 years ago. > > I recall they say in the manual that comes with the set that you aren?t > supposed to drill straight through, but drill from both sides and leave some > material. > > That took a bit more time to align, but it was possible. He used a reamer > for both the outside of the bushes and the inside. > > > > http://healey.850r.dk/albums/Picture%20Album/album/Carburettors/index.html > > > > Niels > > > > Fra: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] P? vegne af John Spaur > Sendt: 24. januar 2017 15:30 > Til: 'Neil McDonald'; 'Michael MacLean' > Cc: 'Austin Healey' > Emne: Re: [Healeys] SU carb reamer needed > > > > Get standard bushings and have a local machine shop drill the body and > insert the bushings or insert them yourself. > > > > John > > BT7 > > From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Tue Jan 24 14:24:26 2017 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica) Date: Wed, 25 Jan 2017 07:24:26 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] SU carb reamer needed References: <1907327788.2172939.1485213304768@mail.yahoo.com> <01B049C3-8DA6-499C-A315-FD23812245F8@gmail.com> ....also as an impecunious student back in the '70s with an MG TD I bought oversize spindles. I can't remember now if these went in but were tight, or if I drilled the carb body to just under the shaft size. Any way I 'fitted' them by lapping them with something like Brasso with the spindle in an electric drill. Cheers Peter Brisbane BN1 V6 MG TC special (under construction) From: Neil McDonald Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2017 9:55 PM To: Michael MacLean Cc: Austin Healey Subject: Re: [Healeys] SU carb reamer needed With adequate resources it's clear that addressing both the shaft and bushing would be the optimum solution. However as an impoverished student over 50 years ago I recall changing out the throttle shafts on my Sprite, at minimal cost, convincing myself that this made a difference! Joe Curto wants around $500 to rebuild a pair of SUs. Now as a retiree I have more resources but still need to manage how much money I spend on my hobby. If the wear is limited, maybe shaft replacement only might be cost effective? _____________________ Neil McDonald BN6 Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com On 23 Jan 2017, at 23:15, Michael MacLean wrote: Might be a better idea to send out the bodies to someone like Joe Curto and have them reamed and re-bushed for a standard shaft. Mike MacLean On Monday, January 23, 2017 11:06 AM, Michael Oritt wrote: I have H6 carbs on my 100 Le Mans and the 5/16" throttle shafts are loose. I would like to go ream out the bodies and go to the oversized .320" throttle shafts. Moss wants $270.00 for the reaming tool and I do not anticipate I will need to do this job again during my lifetime. Does anyone have one of these they would be willing to loan or rent? Best--Michael Oritt _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/nmcd10 at gmail.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Tue Jan 24 17:20:34 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Tue, 24 Jan 2017 19:20:34 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] SU carb reamer needed References: <1907327788.2172939.1485213304768@mail.yahoo.com> <01B049C3-8DA6-499C-A315-FD23812245F8@gmail.com> <000001d2764e$5d26b470$17741d50$@sbcglobal.net> <006001d2766c$fc881d10$f5985730$@dk> Joe Curto charges about $500 to completely rebuild both carbs. I'm not sure if he would just ream and install the shaft bushings, but his website says he is not accepting anymore work at the moment anyway. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Austin Healeys List Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2017 4:06 PM To: Niels Bengaard Cc: Austin Healey Subject: Re: [Healeys] SU carb reamer needed I can't believe people charge $500 per carb to have this done when it only requires some basic hand tools. Andy. From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Tue Jan 24 20:58:21 2017 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=) Date: Tue, 24 Jan 2017 19:58:21 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?healey_boat?= i am a real believer in the three Fs. if if flies, floats or (you know) it will really be expensive. From fsufan1952 at yahoo.com Tue Jan 24 22:14:27 2017 From: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com (Don Day) Date: Wed, 25 Jan 2017 00:14:27 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] SU carb reamer needed References: <1907327788.2172939.1485213304768@mail.yahoo.com> <01B049C3-8DA6-499C-A315-FD23812245F8@gmail.com> <000001d2764e$5d26b470$17741d50$@sbcglobal.net> <006001d2766c$fc881d10$f5985730$@dk> <005801d276a0$dcaee4e0$960caea0$@rr.com> When your doing a complete restoration of a car , trying to do everything yourself that you have the talent to accomplish, and the tools to do right, sometimes there are jobs that you need to trust to a business, with the talent and good track record. Joe Couto is one of the best in carb rebuilding. He rebuilt my BJ-8 carbs , and was there for tech help in fine tuning them to my car. Don Sent from my iPad > On Jan 24, 2017, at 7:20 PM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > > Joe Curto charges about $500 to completely rebuild both carbs. I'm not sure if he would just ream and install the shaft bushings, but his website says he is not accepting anymore work at the moment anyway. > > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > AHCA Delegate at Large > Havelock, NC > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Austin Healeys List > Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2017 4:06 PM > To: Niels Bengaard > Cc: Austin Healey > Subject: Re: [Healeys] SU carb reamer needed > > I can't believe people charge $500 per carb to have this done when it only requires some basic hand tools. > > > Andy. > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fsufan1952 at yahoo.com > From cnaarndt at gmail.com Tue Jan 24 23:07:45 2017 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt) Date: Tue, 24 Jan 2017 22:07:45 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] healey boat References: <20170125035821.1661.qmail@server278.com> If flies, floats or (you know)... *Rent it!* Healey Boat for sale in SoCal. This is the same boat that was at California Healey Week in Big Bear several years ago, and the one I described to Barry Maguire on "Car Crazy". http://classicshowcase.com/index.php/inventory/detail/1 Fresh restoration, with only one outing on Big Bear Lake. I assisted with this restoration, and I'm familiar with what went into bringing this back to excellent condition. Cheers, Curt On Tue, Jan 24, 2017 at 7:58 PM, healeymanjim wrote: > i am a real believer in the three Fs. if if flies, floats or (you know) > it will really be expensive. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From frogeye at porterscustom.com Wed Jan 25 07:26:49 2017 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Wed, 25 Jan 2017 07:26:49 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100 grille surround References: <4etrywf2jrni1ci2tps309wo.1485290541614@email.android.com> oops... should have read Customer seems to have LOST his. On 1/24/2017 1:42 PM, David Porter wrote: > Does anyone in the group have a reasonably good condition one they will part with? Customer seems to have his. Sigh.. > DaveP > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com > > > -- Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ From michael.oritt at gmail.com Wed Jan 25 07:36:32 2017 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Wed, 25 Jan 2017 09:36:32 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] SU carb reamer needed References: <1907327788.2172939.1485213304768@mail.yahoo.com> <01B049C3-8DA6-499C-A315-FD23812245F8@gmail.com> <000001d2764e$5d26b470$17741d50$@sbcglobal.net> <006001d2766c$fc881d10$f5985730$@dk> <005801d276a0$dcaee4e0$960caea0$@rr.com> All-- I talked with Joe and he is way backed up as in several months. It is still nice enough here in MD to go driving about 50% of the time. From what lots of people say it is very possible that the wear is simply confined to those parts of the throttle shafts which pass through the carb body and if that is the case I will simply replace them with new standard sized shafts. Next time a front comes through and the roads get salted I will pull things apart--in the meantime I am driving and in fact that is what I am going to do today. Best--Michael Oritt On Tue, Jan 24, 2017 at 7:20 PM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > Joe Curto charges about $500 to completely rebuild both carbs. I'm not > sure if he would just ream and install the shaft bushings, but his website > says he is not accepting anymore work at the moment anyway. > > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > AHCA Delegate at Large > Havelock, NC > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Austin > Healeys List > Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2017 4:06 PM > To: Niels Bengaard > Cc: Austin Healey > Subject: Re: [Healeys] SU carb reamer needed > > I can't believe people charge $500 per carb to have this done when it only > requires some basic hand tools. > > > Andy. > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rjsmithson at shaw.ca Wed Jan 25 11:23:48 2017 From: rjsmithson at shaw.ca (RAYMOND SMITHSON) Date: Wed, 25 Jan 2017 11:23:48 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Healeys] 3000 dip stick Can anyone tell me the distance from the stop washer to the max fill line on a 6 cylinder engine oil dip stick? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From neilandcustom at gmail.com Wed Jan 25 13:17:28 2017 From: neilandcustom at gmail.com (Neil Anderson) Date: Wed, 25 Jan 2017 14:17:28 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] 3000 dip stick References: <45953923.84747847.1485368628906.JavaMail.root@shaw.ca> The measurement is 11 inches on my 29D engine. Neil Anderson BT7 On Wed, Jan 25, 2017 at 12:23 PM, RAYMOND SMITHSON wrote: > Can anyone tell me the distance from the stop washer to the max fill line > on a 6 cylinder engine oil dip stick? > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/neilandcustom at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Wed Jan 25 14:44:16 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Wed, 25 Jan 2017 16:44:16 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 3000 dip stick References: <45953923.84747847.1485368628906.JavaMail.root@shaw.ca> It depends on which 3000 you are talking about. For BJ7 (and BJ8 engines up to serial number 29K/RU/H278) the dipstick measures about 1/16" shy of 11 inches from the "max" line to the bottom of the washer. BJ8 engines 29K/RU/H279 and up are about 1/16" shy of 16 inches. I don't know about earlier models. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of RAYMOND SMITHSON Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2017 1:24 PM To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] 3000 dip stick Can anyone tell me the distance from the stop washer to the max fill line on a 6 cylinder engine oil dip stick? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Thu Jan 26 08:25:40 2017 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 10:25:40 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Fluid Reservoir Pics I am working on improvements to the "Brake Reservoir" supplement for the 2018 Concours Guidelines. I need good photos of the following: All 3 lid types. The "Girling" decal fitted to the early 6 cylinder reservoirs. ?I would ask that these be of *original? *installations only please. Please include the serial number, year and body number of the car and any appropriate photo credits. Many thanks, Michael Salter Technical Chairman (Big Healeys) Austin Healey Concours Committee -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Thu Jan 26 10:03:33 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 17:03:33 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol It seems that the UK is to be blessed with this stuff. I've been asked for my thoughts on the topic and, as I know nothing about it, I'm looking for advice. See attached. What are your experiences? And what are the "dos and don'ts"? Thanks, Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: E10 Petrol_20170126_0001.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 2526838 bytes Desc: not available URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu Jan 26 10:53:30 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 09:53:30 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Home built GTO Tribute https://youtu.be/hzNQUPR73Hw Guy built himself a fararri GTO... Hard to imagine what the bits he had to buy cost Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Thu Jan 26 10:56:12 2017 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 12:56:12 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol References: <000301d277f6$20e6c320$62b44960$@homecall.co.uk> Hi Simon, There is a pretty good precis on the subject here: The only issues that I have personally encountered have been with the diaphragms in SU HD series carburettors so I would definitely replace those with modern replacements before filling up with E10 or E85 I have been told that ethanol can damage cork seals although I have yet to see evidence of this. I understand that currently available parts are ethanol compatible. Michael S BN1 #174 On Thu, Jan 26, 2017 at 12:03 PM, Simon Lachlan < simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk> wrote: > It seems that the UK is to be blessed with this stuff. I?ve been asked for > my thoughts on the topic and, as I know nothing about it, I?m looking for > advice. > > See attached. > > What are your experiences? And what are the ?dos and don?ts?? > > Thanks, > > Simon > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > > -- *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.brouillette at comcast.net Thu Jan 26 11:12:03 2017 From: m.brouillette at comcast.net (mike brouillette) Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 13:12:03 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey: Anyone looking for a project MG TD? Just saw this on Ebay. If anyone is looking for a 1950 MG TD project, this could be a good start with a buy it now at $7500. No interest? http://www.ebay.com/itm/272532817015? From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of i erbs Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 12:54 PM To: Ahealey help Subject: [Healeys] Home built GTO Tribute https://youtu.be/hzNQUPR73Hw Guy built himself a fararri GTO... Hard to imagine what the bits he had to buy cost Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Jan 26 11:40:00 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 18:40:00 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol References: <000301d277f6$20e6c320$62b44960$@homecall.co.uk> I've been running mostly E10 in my BJ8 for many years as that is all that is (mostly) available in California, and I've been running it in our BN2 for the last few years/few hundred miles. There is only one anomaly that I attribute--no scientific evidence--to the ethanol: Some stumbling from the BJ8's engine for a few miles after a hot restart (possibly due to vaporization 'bubbles'). We put all new fuel lines in the BN2, but the BJ8 still has the original metal lines and the soft lines were replaced more than 20 years ago. The BJ8's carbs were rebuilt over 20 years ago, with the diaphragms with green 'bellows.' Both cars had their fuel tanks lined with Bill Hirsch gas tank sealant (the BJ8's many, many years ago). If you want to minimize any potential problems: 1) replace rubber components that come in contact with E10 2) clean and seal your gas tanks 3) make sure your carb heat shields are in good nick 4) if your car won't be run for a while, top up the tank and consider one of the fuel treatments (I've never used any but, presumably, it couldn't hurt). If you are going to store your car for an extended period drain the tank and float bowls. Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Simon Lachlan" To: "Healey List" Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 9:03:33 AM Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol It seems that the UK is to be blessed with this stuff. I?ve been asked for my thoughts on the topic and, as I know nothing about it, I?m looking for advice. See attached. What are your experiences? And what are the ?dos and don?ts?? Thanks, Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Thu Jan 26 11:48:30 2017 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 10:48:30 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol References: <000301d277f6$20e6c320$62b44960$@homecall.co.uk> The issues with the Ethanol will depend on the percentage of Ethanol they will be putting in. Here in California most of the Ethanol is 10%. However they are talking about raising that and if they do we will start having real problems. The most common issues we run into are . Overheating and miss fires under heavy load due to lean mixtures. Especially worse on the Tri Carb. This can usually be cured by installing the Rich needles. The other issues are lack of power and lower gas mileage. David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: Simon Lachlan Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 9:03 AM To: 'Healey List' Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol It seems that the UK is to be blessed with this stuff. I?ve been asked for my thoughts on the topic and, as I know nothing about it, I?m looking for advice. See attached. What are your experiences? And what are the ?dos and don?ts?? Thanks, Simon -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu Jan 26 12:06:15 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 11:06:15 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol References: <000301d277f6$20e6c320$62b44960$@homecall.co.uk> eats rubber parts: hoses, carb diaphragms, and fuel pump innards. Replace all fuel line hoses with ethanol tolerant hoses. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Thu, Jan 26, 2017 at 9:03 AM, Simon Lachlan wrote: > It seems that the UK is to be blessed with this stuff. I?ve been asked for > my thoughts on the topic and, as I know nothing about it, I?m looking for > advice. > > See attached. > > What are your experiences? And what are the ?dos and don?ts?? > > Thanks, > > Simon > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Thu Jan 26 13:20:56 2017 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 15:20:56 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol References: <000301d277f6$20e6c320$62b44960$@homecall.co.uk> *I doubt many if any cars in UK are E85 compliant. All fuel lines made prior to 1995 in US were NOT ethanol ready and will fall apart readily.*Hi Randy, Your note has raised a very interesting question. Have you had any experience with original Petroflex hoses failing due to ethanol? We have been subjected to ethanol for many years now and I cannot recall even one incidence of a Petroflex failure that I could attribute to it. My own 100 has an original ? NOS? Smiths Petroflex hose joining the main fuel line to the carb fuel pipe and although it has only been on the road for 2 years since restoration I have not seen any signs of failure and the hose is still very flexible. ?I do know that if you subject a Petroflex hose to "Varsol" ?cleaning fluid it deteriorates rapidly and that should definitely be avoided at all costs. Would appreciate your thoughts. Michael S *?* ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rjhco at att.net Thu Jan 26 14:36:42 2017 From: rjhco at att.net (Richard J. Hockert) Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 15:36:42 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol References: <000301d277f6$20e6c320$62b44960$@homecall.co.uk> <1DD174907DBE47FB9EBFE34D5B050B24@DavidNockHP> The correct AFR for alcohol (ethanol) is around 8 to 1 versus gasoline at 14.7 to 1. Switching to 10% ethanol should equate to about a 5% richer mixture. Ethanol produces more power than gasoline ? hence alcohol race engines but much more fuel required. Your mileage will suffer. Best regards, Jim From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Nock BCS Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 12:49 PM To: Simon Lachlan; 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol The issues with the Ethanol will depend on the percentage of Ethanol they will be putting in. Here in California most of the Ethanol is 10%. However they are talking about raising that and if they do we will start having real problems. The most common issues we run into are . Overheating and miss fires under heavy load due to lean mixtures. Especially worse on the Tri Carb. This can usually be cured by installing the Rich needles. The other issues are lack of power and lower gas mileage. David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 9:03 AM Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol It seems that the UK is to be blessed with this stuff. I?ve been asked for my thoughts on the topic and, as I know nothing about it, I?m looking for advice. See attached. What are your experiences? And what are the ?dos and don?ts?? Thanks, Simon _____ _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Jan 26 15:59:22 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 23:59:22 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol References: <000301d277f6$20e6c320$62b44960$@homecall.co.uk> It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have presumably used E85 for years. This usually contains about 5% ethanol, sometimes considerably more. So you have already changed most if not all rubber parts with modern items that are ethanol resistant. If you still have original rubber parts e.g. hoses, replace them. It is unbelievable that some people still have original fuel hoses, brake hoses etc. fitted. They should have been replaced a very long time ago. Very risky. There are claims it can corrode aluminium alloy parts in the carbs and fuel pump, but I still have to see proper physical evidence of this. Pumps and carbs that have been exposed to ethanol containing petrol for donkeys years are mostly still absolutely clean. If the petrol is contaminated with water or if the carbs/pumps have been dry for years you may see some sediment or corrosion, but this is rare. Kees Oudesluijs Op 26-1-2017 om 20:06 schreef i erbs: > eats rubber parts: hoses, carb diaphragms, and fuel pump innards. > Replace all fuel line hoses with ethanol tolerant hoses. > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > On Thu, Jan 26, 2017 at 9:03 AM, Simon Lachlan > wrote: > > It seems that the UK is to be blessed with this stuff. I?ve been > asked for my thoughts on the topic and, as I know nothing about > it, I?m looking for advice. > > See attached. > > What are your experiences? And what are the ?dos and don?ts?? > > Thanks, > > Simon > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mgcharlie at comcast.net Thu Jan 26 18:03:33 2017 From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin) Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 20:03:33 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey: Anyone looking for a project MG TD? References: <042a01d277ff$b2f1e9d0$18d5bd70$@comcast.net> Way too much money. It would be a worthwhile investment at half that. On 1/26/2017 1:12 PM, mike brouillette wrote: > > Just saw this on Ebay. If anyone is looking for a 1950 MG TD project, > this could be a good start with a buy it now at $7500. > > No interest? > > http://www.ebay.com/itm/272532817015? > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *i erbs > *Sent:* Thursday, January 26, 2017 12:54 PM > *To:* Ahealey help > *Subject:* [Healeys] Home built GTO Tribute > > https://youtu.be/hzNQUPR73Hw > > Guy built himself a fararri GTO... Hard to imagine what the bits he > had to buy cost > > Ira Erbs > > Portland,OR > > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jlyons4 at rochester.rr.com Thu Jan 26 18:23:27 2017 From: jlyons4 at rochester.rr.com (Jim Lyons) Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 20:23:27 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? Hello All, I am looking to replace or repair the DASH TOP on my 1966 BJ8. I?m looking for recommendations for vendors who can supply the material that is closest to the original vinyl ?leathercloth?. I see that MOSS does offer a DASH TOP, PADDED, BLACK ( pt # 633-850 ) for $203. Does anyone sell a kit with just the material ? Thanks, Jim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From steveg at abrazosdata.com Thu Jan 26 18:43:41 2017 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 17:43:41 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Ethanol?= IMO: Ethanol is a boondoggle for farmers. It takes more energy to produce than it saves. -- Steve Gerow Altadena, CA BN6 Maker of most complete Big Healey rear disc kit From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Thu Jan 26 19:10:29 2017 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 21:10:29 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol References: <000301d277f6$20e6c320$62b44960$@homecall.co.uk> Simon, we have been subjected to ethanol for some years here in Canada and confess I did absolutely nothing to my '59 BT7 to adjust to it. I rebuilt the carbs 3 years ago, but prior to that, they had whatever parts I fitted when I previously serviced them, probably 15-20 years ago. I don't thrash the car, and driving normally I noticed no difference in power, and since it is not my regular driver for work etc., I have never bothered much about fuel consumption (would it influence how much drive it?- No!). I can't even recall when I last serviced the fuel pump, it must be at least 25 -30 years ago, perhaps not since I put a new one in around 1975, just after I bought the car. I expect it would affect timing but I always fine-adjust this with the Vernier on the distributor after static setting per usual practice and I get no pinging. Being in Canada, the car is not driven during the salt season from around late November to late March(-ish). I don't top up or drain the tank, or add any fuel stabilizers, and it starts up and runs just fine in the spring (except for needing a boost some years). My advice is just drive it, and if something breaks, THEN fix it. To be clear, I not saying the ethanol has no effect, it plays havoc with the carburation on my vintage motorcycles, which are air-cooled and much less forgiving when burn-rate and combustion temperature are changed with the ethanol. I just think the Healeys, the 3000s at least, can cope with the changes more easily. The only other big effect I noticed is that it is attacking the lining I put in one of my BSA fuel tanks, and I will have to clean that out soon before completely breaks down (the solvent is methyl-ethyl ketone - I can't wait!). Good luck with it, Mirek From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan Sent: January-26-17 12:04 PM To: 'Healey List' Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol It seems that the UK is to be blessed with this stuff. I've been asked for my thoughts on the topic and, as I know nothing about it, I'm looking for advice. See attached. What are your experiences? And what are the "dos and don'ts"? Thanks, Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Thu Jan 26 21:12:33 2017 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 04:12:33 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? References: <991F0077598D4A26A05A4684E2A4391D@LyonsAsusS550C> Jim, John Skinner in the UK sells it, good to deal with , reasonably priced. I am sure there are others too in the US. www.john.skinner.co.uk Jean ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Jim Lyons Sent: January 27, 2017 1:23 AM To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? Hello All, I am looking to replace or repair the DASH TOP on my 1966 BJ8. I'm looking for recommendations for vendors who can supply the material that is closest to the original vinyl "leathercloth". I see that MOSS does offer a DASH TOP, PADDED, BLACK ( pt # 633-850 ) for $203. Does anyone sell a kit with just the material ? Thanks, Jim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com Thu Jan 26 22:06:02 2017 From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 05:06:02 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol References: <20170127014342.1102.qmail@hoster902.com> I get a solid 12% LESS miles on Calif 91 octane (highest available) than I do here in KY with 93 octane (highest available) But I am seeing more 10% Ethanol fuel in KY than in previous years. But we have many ethanol free offerings in the area. Had to change fuel line on Healey recently when it began leaking from splits/disintegration. I smelled it before I found it. Nearly a fire risk. Regards, Richard Of KY BN7 #440 > On Jan 26, 2017, at 9:26 PM, Steve B. Gerow wrote: > > IMO: > Ethanol is a boondoggle for farmers. It takes more energy to produce than it saves. > > -- > Steve Gerow > Altadena, CA > BN6 > From josef-eckert at t-online.de Thu Jan 26 23:07:02 2017 From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 07:07:02 +0100 (MET) Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol References: <000301d277f6$20e6c320$62b44960$@homecall.co.uk> Here in Europe most Austin-Healeys (95%+) were completely restored with new parts, lines, hoses, fitted. I only know one or two cars out of 100 which only got a tidying up since they were built. So extremely rare. I have many friends who use E10 (95 Octane) in their classic cars without any problems. My Austin-Healeys need 98+ Octane, so I stay with the premium fuels from Shell (V-Power (101 Octane), or ARAL Ultimate (103 Octane). These premium fuels, or the Super Plus (98 Octane) contain below 5% Ethanol. So I haven?t faced any problems. I would have some problems using E10 (95 Octane), as it would cause after-run of the engines, which are eliminated with higher octane fuels. Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Datum: 2017-01-27T02:15:07+0100 Von: "Oudesluys" An: "healeys at autox.team.net" It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have presumably used E85 for years. This usually contains about 5% ethanol, sometimes considerably more. So you have already changed most if not all rubber parts with modern items that are ethanol resistant. If you still have original rubber parts e.g. hoses, replace them. It is unbelievable that some people still have original fuel hoses, brake hoses etc. fitted. They should have been replaced a very long time ago. Very risky. There are claims it can corrode aluminium alloy parts in the carbs and fuel pump, but I still have to see proper physical evidence of this. Pumps and carbs that have been exposed to ethanol containing petrol for donkeys years are mostly still absolutely clean. If the petrol is contaminated with water or if the carbs/pumps have been dry for years you may see some sediment or corrosion, but this is rare. Kees Oudesluijs Op 26-1-2017 om 20:06 schreef i erbs: eats rubber parts: hoses, carb diaphragms, and fuel pump innards. Replace all fuel line hoses with ethanol tolerant hoses. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Thu, Jan 26, 2017 at 9:03 AM, Simon Lachlan < wrote: It seems that the UK is to be blessed with this stuff. I?ve been asked for my thoughts on the topic and, as I know nothing about it, I?m looking for advice. See attached. What are your experiences? And what are the ?dos and don?ts?? Thanks, Simon _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Thu Jan 26 23:54:48 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 22:54:48 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol References: <000301d277f6$20e6c320$62b44960$@homecall.co.uk> <1485497222007.6248468.9f7d93919ffb3ba7849f922f045ff06a5fb1a9ee@spica.telekom.de> Wish I could get 93 octane let alone 95 or 98! John San Jose, CA From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of josef-eckert at t-online.de Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 10:07 PM To: Oudesluys ; Healeys, Forum Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol ?I have many friends who use E10 (95 Octane) in their classic cars without any problems. My Austin-Healeys need 98+ Octane,? Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From josef-eckert at t-online.de Thu Jan 26 23:59:51 2017 From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 07:59:51 +0100 (MET) Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol References: <000301d277f6$20e6c320$62b44960$@homecall.co.uk> <1485497222007.6248468.9f7d93919ffb3ba7849f922f045ff06a5fb1a9ee@spica.telekom.de> <000501d2786a$4174dd10$c45e9730$@sbcglobal.net> John, as far as I know 95 grade "European Octane" is comparable with 91 grade "American Octane". Don?t know the reason for that, as I never went into it further. I.E. Afgas for plane engines is about 103 Octane Europe. Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: RE: [Healeys] Ethanol Datum: 2017-01-27T07:54:53+0100 Von: "John Spaur" An: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" , "'Oudesluys'" , "'Healeys, Forum'" Wish I could get 93 octane let alone 95 or 98! John San Jose, CA From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of josef-eckert at t-online.de Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 10:07 PM To: Oudesluys ; Healeys, Forum Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol ?I have many friends who use E10 (95 Octane) in their classic cars without any problems. My Austin-Healeys need 98+ Octane,? Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From derek.c.job at gmail.com Fri Jan 27 00:58:38 2017 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 07:58:38 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? References: <991F0077598D4A26A05A4684E2A4391D@LyonsAsusS550C> AH Spares sell the leather cloth by the metre. Derek On Fri, Jan 27, 2017 at 1:23 AM, Jim Lyons wrote: > Hello All, > I am looking to replace or repair the DASH TOP on my 1966 BJ8. I?m looking > for recommendations for vendors who can supply the material that is > closest to the original vinyl ?leathercloth?. > I see that MOSS does offer a DASH TOP, PADDED, BLACK ( pt # 633-850 ) for > $203. Does anyone sell a kit with just the material ? > > Thanks, > Jim > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Jan 27 02:44:27 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 10:44:27 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol References: <000301d277f6$20e6c320$62b44960$@homecall.co.uk> In Europe there was often a substantial amount of ethanol in post war petrol wel into the '60's. Petrol was not of the best quality and ethanol was used as an octane booster. Not many problems at the time. Kees Oudesluijs Op 26-1-2017 om 21:20 schreef Michael Salter: > /I doubt many if any cars in UK are E85 compliant. All fuel lines > made prior to 1995 in US were NOT ethanol ready and will fall apart > readily. > > /Hi Randy, > Your note has raised a very interesting question. > Have you had any experience with original Petroflex hoses failing due > to ethanol? > We have been subjected to ethanol for many years now and I cannot > recall even one incidence of a Petroflex failure that I could > attribute to it. > My own 100 has an original > ? NOS? > Smiths Petroflex hose joining the main fuel line to the carb fuel pipe > and although it has only been on the road for 2 years since > restoration I have not seen any signs of failure and the hose is still > very flexible. > ?I do know that if you subject a Petroflex hose to "Varsol" ?cleaning > fluid it deteriorates rapidly and that should definitely be avoided at > all costs. > Would appreciate your thoughts. > > Michael S > > > > > > /?/ > ? > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Jan 27 05:25:03 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 13:25:03 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol References: <000301d277f6$20e6c320$62b44960$@homecall.co.uk> Op 26-1-2017 om 23:59 schreef Oudesluys: > It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have > presumably used E85 for years Should of course be E95 Kees Oudesluijs From rchaskell at earthlink.net Fri Jan 27 06:33:12 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 08:33:12 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol References: <000301d277f6$20e6c320$62b44960$@homecall.co.uk> <1485497222007.6248468.9f7d93919ffb3ba7849f922f045ff06a5fb1a9ee@spica.telekom.de> <000501d2786a$4174dd10$c45e9730$@sbcglobal.net> <1485500391228.6130407.3568cfdf787e44368a8b41d97a311d79d249f1fa@spica.telekom.de> John and Josef, There are two methods for measuring octane rating - motoring and research. The average of the two is used in the US. The higher research octane number is used in Europe. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 01/27/2017 01:59 AM, josef-eckert at t-online.de wrote: > John, > > as far as I know 95 grade "European Octane" is comparable with 91 grade > "American Octane". Don?t know the reason for that, as I never went into > it further. I.E. Afgas for plane engines is about 103 Octane Europe. > > Josef Eckert > > K?nigswinter/Germany > > -----Original-Nachricht----- > > Betreff: RE: [Healeys] Ethanol > > Datum: 2017-01-27T07:54:53+0100 > > Von: "John Spaur" > > An: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" , "'Oudesluys'" > , "'Healeys, Forum'" > > Wish I could get 93 octane let alone 95 or 98! > > John > > San Jose, CA > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *josef-eckert at t-online.de > *Sent:* Thursday, January 26, 2017 10:07 PM > *To:* Oudesluys ; Healeys, Forum > > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > > ?I have many friends who use E10 (95 Octane) in their classic cars > without any problems. My Austin-Healeys need 98+ Octane,? > > Josef Eckert > > K?nigswinter/Germany > > ? > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Jan 27 07:05:03 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 06:05:03 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? References: <991F0077598D4A26A05A4684E2A4391D@LyonsAsusS550C> Mods sells material by the yard Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes Portland,OR On Jan 26, 2017 6:52 PM, "Jim Lyons" wrote: > Hello All, > I am looking to replace or repair the DASH TOP on my 1966 BJ8. I?m looking > for recommendations for vendors who can supply the material that is > closest to the original vinyl ?leathercloth?. > I see that MOSS does offer a DASH TOP, PADDED, BLACK ( pt # 633-850 ) for > $203. Does anyone sell a kit with just the material ? > > Thanks, > Jim > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Jan 27 07:14:30 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 14:14:30 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol References: <000301d277f6$20e6c320$62b44960$@homecall.co.uk> My BJ8 has had a Petroflex line in it for 100K+ miles and 25+ years and hasn't had a problem. It does feel a little stiff and since I'm doing an overhaul I've bought a replacement (watch it crap out in 3 months ;). Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Salter" To: "Randy Alkins" , "healeys" Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 12:20:56 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol I doubt many if any cars in UK are E85 compliant. All fuel lines made prior to 1995 in US were NOT ethanol ready and will fall apart readily. Hi Randy, Your note has raised a very interesting question. Have you had any experience with original Petroflex hoses failing due to ethanol? We have been subjected to ethanol for many years now and I cannot recall even one incidence of a Petroflex failure that I could attribute to it. My own 100 has an original ? NOS? Smiths Petroflex hose joining the main fuel line to the carb fuel pipe and although it has only been on the road for 2 years since restoration I have not seen any signs of failure and the hose is still very flexible. ?I do know that if you subject a Petroflex hose to "Varsol" ?cleaning fluid it deteriorates rapidly and that should definitely be avoided at all costs. Would appreciate your thoughts. Michael S ? ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Jan 27 07:20:02 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 14:20:02 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol References: <000301d277f6$20e6c320$62b44960$@homecall.co.uk> <1DD174907DBE47FB9EBFE34D5B050B24@DavidNockHP> <067501d2781c$4a0d2ac0$de278040$@att.net> Ethanol has a much lower energy content than gasoline, hence the lower mileage with gasahol. See here: http://www.afdc.energy.gov/fuels/fuel_comparison_chart.pdf ('alternate fuels,' not 'alternate facts') It does, however, have a higher octane rating allowing the huge compression ratios in dragsters and other racers; which is what produces the massive power in those engines. Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard J. Hockert" To: "David Nock BCS" , "Simon Lachlan" , "Healey List" Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 1:36:42 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol The correct AFR for alcohol (ethanol) is around 8 to 1 versus gasoline at 14.7 to 1. Switching to 10% ethanol should equate to about a 5% richer mixture. Ethanol produces more power than gasoline ? hence alcohol race engines but much more fuel required. Your mileage will suffer. Best regards, Jim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Jan 27 08:36:53 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 15:36:53 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol References: <000301d277f6$20e6c320$62b44960$@homecall.co.uk> <1485497222007.6248468.9f7d93919ffb3ba7849f922f045ff06a5fb1a9ee@spica.telekom.de> <000501d2786a$4174dd10$c45e9730$@sbcglobal.net> I believe the European octane ratings are Research Method only, which reads 3-5 points higher than US (R+M)/2. So, European 98 octane would be equivalent to US 93 octane (rare, but available in some areas in the States; 100-octane is available for boat engines around Havasu). Contrary to popular belief, ethanol can actually raise octane. There's a gas station in Los Altos that used to sell 95-octane, which was E10 IIRC. It's very difficult to raise the octane rating of pure gas--it requires special refining--that's why TEL was added starting around WWII for high-compression fighter engines (it was 'discovered' at the Sloan-Kettering institute, who tested several thousand compounds before settling on TEL). Adding ethanol to gasoline means the gas part doesn't have to be as carefully refined (hence 'cheaper'). There is an exhaustive research program being undertaken in order to develop an aviation fuel to replace 100LL--100-octane, 'low-lead,' which I believe is 'only' 2 grams/gallon of elemental lead vs. 3 grams/gallon of previous formulations--and it is proceeding very slowly due to its complexity. I've run tanks of E10 and tanks of pure gas, and didn't notice any significant variance in mileage, but it's usually an 'oranges-to-apples' comparison since most runs involve a mix of highway/freeway and grades, stop-and-go, etc. ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Spaur" To: josef-eckert at t-online.de, "Oudesluys" , "Forum' 'Healeys" Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 10:54:48 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Wish I could get 93 octane let alone 95 or 98! John San Jose, CA -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Jan 27 08:43:12 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 15:43:12 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol References: <000301d277f6$20e6c320$62b44960$@homecall.co.uk> <1b7feb54-9c7f-8d7e-03d8-7d628186c316@chello.nl> OK, now I be confused. In the States, E10 is 10% ethanol, E85 is 85% ethanol, so E95 would be 95% ethanol. Is that correct? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Oudesluys" To: "healeys" Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 4:25:03 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Op 26-1-2017 om 23:59 schreef Oudesluys: > It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have > presumably used E85 for years Should of course be E95 Kees Oudesluijs -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From waschu2 at gmail.com Fri Jan 27 09:04:04 2017 From: waschu2 at gmail.com (Wayne) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 11:04:04 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BJ-8 rear end housing Hello, My rear end housing is bent and I may need a replacement. I would be interested in a complete assembly or just the housing itself. I discovered the problem when I had difficulty removing the rear axles, and once they are out they bind on the hub studs preventing reassembly. I will pull the differential today and install the axles to see how bad the misalignment is. I am located in CT. Wayne From randyalkins at gmail.com Fri Jan 27 10:04:54 2017 From: randyalkins at gmail.com (randyalkins) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 12:04:54 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol Have not heard of 95. There is talk of e15 which will be bad for all. 10 was bad. And some warranties will be denied by engine maufacturers if it goes to 15 Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device-------- Original message --------From: Bob Spidell Date: 1/27/2017 10:43 AM (GMT-05:00) To: Oudesluys Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol OK, now I be confused.? In the States, E10 is 10% ethanol, E85 is 85% ethanol, so E95 would be 95% ethanol.? Is that correct? From: "Oudesluys" To: "healeys" Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 4:25:03 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Op 26-1-2017 om 23:59 schreef Oudesluys: > It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have > presumably used E85 for years Should of course be E95 Kees Oudesluijs -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at gmail.com Fri Jan 27 11:54:38 2017 From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 10:54:38 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol References: <000301d277f6$20e6c320$62b44960$@homecall.co.uk> <1b7feb54-9c7f-8d7e-03d8-7d628186c316@chello.nl> <532867142.104914937.1485531792988.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net> Check out this report/ road test of a comparison of E85 to Gas. https://www.edmunds.com/fuel-economy/e85-vs-gasoline-comparison-test.html Here at the shop we have been dealing with this problem for a long time with a lot of cars. And found the same problems with all of them, some worse than others. Overheating due the removal of the gas and addition of the Ethanol. The Ethanol burns hotter which reduces emissions. This causes older cars to run hotter. Lower gas mileage and lower performance Miss fires and Lack of power due to the leaner mixture. The is especially worse on a Tri Carb Healey, the rear carb will lean out on a long hard run at a steady hight rpm. Also Ethanol has a very strong cleaning ability, So if you start using Ethanol in a older gas tank or a tank that has been sitting for while that has a lot of varnish build up. The Ethanol will go about its cleaning ability and clean up all that varnish in the tank and deposit it in the carburettors. I know that there are lots of those out there that have all the techy stuff. But I go by what I have learned by over 40 year of working on all British cars and lots of them. The bottom line with 10 % Ethanol your Vintage car will run hotter, get worse fuel economy and may experience miss fires under heavy acceleration. David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 209 948 8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: Bob Spidell Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 7:43 AM To: Oudesluys Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol OK, now I be confused. In the States, E10 is 10% ethanol, E85 is 85% ethanol, so E95 would be 95% ethanol. Is that correct? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Oudesluys" To: "healeys" Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 4:25:03 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Op 26-1-2017 om 23:59 schreef Oudesluys: > It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have > presumably used E85 for years Should of course be E95 Kees Oudesluijs -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From SIMON_GRIF at msn.com Fri Jan 27 12:21:05 2017 From: SIMON_GRIF at msn.com (Simon Griffin) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 19:21:05 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Correct Jack for a 54 BN1 For my MG TD I have a nice Shelley 6DL jack and set of handles. This Jack looks very much like the King Dick Jack. What I am not sure about is what is the correct Jack for the 100 in late 54? Was it a Shelley or a King Dick or were they both used? For the TD it could be either in 53 (mine was built July 53) and it would have had a set of handles split in half that were turned with a 9 1/2 " tommy bar. I have also seen handles with a larger hole and a wooden handle to turn. Can anyone confirm what is correct for the 100? Thanks Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cnaarndt at gmail.com Fri Jan 27 14:15:12 2017 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 13:15:12 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? References: <991F0077598D4A26A05A4684E2A4391D@LyonsAsusS550C> Derek, Check with Woolies in the UK. I recently ordered their Green non-stretch vinyl and it was spot on. Square weave cotton backing that was green (like the original "Vynide" was) versus white or off white like a lot of modern replacements. Cheers, Curt On Thu, Jan 26, 2017 at 11:58 PM, Derek Job wrote: > AH Spares sell the leather cloth by the metre. > > Derek > > On Fri, Jan 27, 2017 at 1:23 AM, Jim Lyons > wrote: > >> Hello All, >> I am looking to replace or repair the DASH TOP on my 1966 BJ8. I?m >> looking for recommendations for vendors who can supply the material that >> is closest to the original vinyl ?leathercloth?. >> I see that MOSS does offer a DASH TOP, PADDED, BLACK ( pt # 633-850 ) for >> $203. Does anyone sell a kit with just the material ? >> >> Thanks, >> Jim >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com >> >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From YNOTINK at msn.com Fri Jan 27 14:23:23 2017 From: YNOTINK at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 21:23:23 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol References: <000301d277f6$20e6c320$62b44960$@homecall.co.uk> <1DD174907DBE47FB9EBFE34D5B050B24@DavidNockHP> <067501d2781c$4a0d2ac0$de278040$@att.net>, <528184118.104844061.1485526802079.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net> Agreed. To put some rough numbers to it ethanol has approximately 60% of the energy content of gasoline (petrol if you prefer). Methanol is even worse at around 55%. To produce equivalent work you need to burn approximately 4% more 10% ethanol fuel. The reason alcohol is used in racing engines is (as noted below) that its higher octane rating allows huge increases in compression ratio. To achieve power gains on alcohol requires a massive increase in the amount of fuel used. A single run for an alcohol powered dragster may use 5 gallons of fuel or more. Other advantages to alcohol burning are that mixing the larger concentrations of alcohol provides a cooling effect that improves volumetric efficiency and that alcohol contains some oxygen that promotes better burning. ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Bob Spidell Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 2:20:02 PM To: Richard J. Hockert Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Ethanol has a much lower energy content than gasoline, hence the lower mileage with gasahol. See here: http://www.afdc.energy.gov/fuels/fuel_comparison_chart.pdf ('alternate fuels,' not 'alternate facts') It does, however, have a higher octane rating allowing the huge compression ratios in dragsters and other racers; which is what produces the massive power in those engines. Bob ________________________________ From: "Richard J. Hockert" To: "David Nock BCS" , "Simon Lachlan" , "Healey List" Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 1:36:42 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol The correct AFR for alcohol (ethanol) is around 8 to 1 versus gasoline at 14.7 to 1. Switching to 10% ethanol should equate to about a 5% richer mixture. Ethanol produces more power than gasoline - hence alcohol race engines but much more fuel required. Your mileage will suffer. Best regards, Jim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From john at jtkarowe.com.au Fri Jan 27 15:17:28 2017 From: john at jtkarowe.com.au (John Rowe) Date: Sat, 28 Jan 2017 08:17:28 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol References: <000301d277f6$20e6c320$62b44960$@homecall.co.uk> <1DD174907DBE47FB9EBFE34D5B050B24@DavidNockHP> <067501d2781c$4a0d2ac0$de278040$@att.net> <528184118.104844061.1485526802079.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net> Bob, I think you will find that dragsters run on methanol, which is a different kettle of fish. In Australia we have E10 (10%) supposedly 94?? octane. I won?t use it in my Healeys as it is rubbish (2c per litre cheaper than 91 unleaded). One small fuel company makes E85 which a friend uses in a Datsun 1600 (510) race car fitted with EFI. He had to increase the fuelling by 30% from that for 100 octane Av-gas to obtain the same hp figures. The exhaust stink is sickly and sweet and unbearable. Might be great for the environment, not good for humans I use 95 or 98 octane in all my cars. For the low mileage they do, the extra expense is negligible. I totally agree with David Nocks comments in his recent email John Rowe Qld Australia BN1 BT7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Saturday, 28 January 2017 12:20 AM To: Richard J. Hockert Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Ethanol has a much lower energy content than gasoline, hence the lower mileage with gasahol. See here: http://www.afdc.energy.gov/fuels/fuel_comparison_chart.pdf ('alternate fuels,' not 'alternate facts') It does, however, have a higher octane rating allowing the huge compression ratios in dragsters and other racers; which is what produces the massive power in those engines. Bob _____ From: "Richard J. Hockert" To: "David Nock BCS" , "Simon Lachlan" , "Healey List" Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 1:36:42 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol The correct AFR for alcohol (ethanol) is around 8 to 1 versus gasoline at 14.7 to 1. Switching to 10% ethanol should equate to about a 5% richer mixture. Ethanol produces more power than gasoline ? hence alcohol race engines but much more fuel required. Your mileage will suffer. Best regards, Jim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jc9821 at msn.com Fri Jan 27 16:07:30 2017 From: jc9821 at msn.com (John and Judy Carter) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 23:07:30 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 soft brake pedal References: After bleeding brakes and car sits for a time the brake pedal is soft again. You can pump it up to a firm pedal but it is soft again at the next application. This occurs whether you are driving the car or not (brake booster is fairly new). I cannot find any leaks and the reservoir stays full(silicone fluid). ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of healeys-request at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 2:00 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 33 Send Healeys mailing list submissions to healeys at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net autox.team.net To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to healeys-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at healeys-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: Ethanol (i erbs) 2. Re: Ethanol (Michael Salter) 3. Re: Ethanol (Richard J. Hockert) 4. Re: Ethanol (Oudesluys) 5. Re: Non Healey: Anyone looking for a project MG TD? (Charlie Baldwin) 6. DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? (Jim Lyons) 7. Re: Ethanol (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) 8. Re: Ethanol (Mirek Sharp) 9. Re: DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? (Jean Caron) 10. Re: Ethanol (Richard Collins) 11. Re: Ethanol (josef-eckert at t-online.de) 12. Re: Ethanol (John Spaur) 13. Re: Ethanol (josef-eckert at t-online.de) 14. Re: DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? (Derek Job) 15. Re: Ethanol (Oudesluys) 16. Re: Ethanol (Oudesluys) 17. Re: Ethanol (Bob Haskell) 18. Re: DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? (i erbs) 19. Re: Ethanol (Bob Spidell) 20. Re: Ethanol (Bob Spidell) 21. Re: Ethanol (Bob Spidell) 22. Re: Ethanol (Bob Spidell) 23. BJ-8 rear end housing (Wayne) 24. Re: Ethanol (randyalkins) 25. Re: Ethanol (David Nock) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 11:06:15 -0800 From: i erbs To: Simon Lachlan Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Message-ID: eats rubber parts: hoses, carb diaphragms, and fuel pump innards. Replace all fuel line hoses with ethanol tolerant hoses. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Thu, Jan 26, 2017 at 9:03 AM, Simon Lachlan wrote: > It seems that the UK is to be blessed with this stuff. I?ve been asked for > my thoughts on the topic and, as I know nothing about it, I?m looking for > advice. > > See attached. > > What are your experiences? And what are the ?dos and don?ts?? > > Thanks, > > Simon > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html www.team.net www.team.net The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Mail Archives - Team.Net www.team.net Team.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest updated. > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net autox.team.net To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 15:20:56 -0500 From: Michael Salter To: Randy Alkins , "healeys at autox.team.net" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Message-ID: *I doubt many if any cars in UK are E85 compliant. All fuel lines made prior to 1995 in US were NOT ethanol ready and will fall apart readily.*Hi Randy, Your note has raised a very interesting question. Have you had any experience with original Petroflex hoses failing due to ethanol? We have been subjected to ethanol for many years now and I cannot recall even one incidence of a Petroflex failure that I could attribute to it. My own 100 has an original ? NOS? Smiths Petroflex hose joining the main fuel line to the carb fuel pipe and although it has only been on the road for 2 years since restoration I have not seen any signs of failure and the hose is still very flexible. ?I do know that if you subject a Petroflex hose to "Varsol" ?cleaning fluid it deteriorates rapidly and that should definitely be avoided at all costs. Would appreciate your thoughts. Michael S *?* ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 15:36:42 -0600 From: "Richard J. Hockert" To: "'David Nock BCS'" , "'Simon Lachlan'" , "'Healey List'" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol The correct AFR for alcohol (ethanol) is around 8 to 1 versus gasoline at 14.7 to 1. Switching to 10% ethanol should equate to about a 5% richer mixture. Ethanol produces more power than gasoline ? hence alcohol race engines but much more fuel required. Your mileage will suffer. Best regards, Jim From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Nock BCS Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 12:49 PM To: Simon Lachlan; 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol The issues with the Ethanol will depend on the percentage of Ethanol they will be putting in. Here in California most of the Ethanol is 10%. However they are talking about raising that and if they do we will start having real problems. The most common issues we run into are . Overheating and miss fires under heavy load due to lean mixtures. Especially worse on the Tri Carb. This can usually be cured by installing the Rich needles. The other issues are lack of power and lower gas mileage. David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 9:03 AM Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol It seems that the UK is to be blessed with this stuff. I?ve been asked for my thoughts on the topic and, as I know nothing about it, I?m looking for advice. See attached. What are your experiences? And what are the ?dos and don?ts?? Thanks, Simon _____ _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 23:59:22 +0100 From: Oudesluys To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have presumably used E85 for years. This usually contains about 5% ethanol, sometimes considerably more. So you have already changed most if not all rubber parts with modern items that are ethanol resistant. If you still have original rubber parts e.g. hoses, replace them. It is unbelievable that some people still have original fuel hoses, brake hoses etc. fitted. They should have been replaced a very long time ago. Very risky. There are claims it can corrode aluminium alloy parts in the carbs and fuel pump, but I still have to see proper physical evidence of this. Pumps and carbs that have been exposed to ethanol containing petrol for donkeys years are mostly still absolutely clean. If the petrol is contaminated with water or if the carbs/pumps have been dry for years you may see some sediment or corrosion, but this is rare. Kees Oudesluijs Op 26-1-2017 om 20:06 schreef i erbs: > eats rubber parts: hoses, carb diaphragms, and fuel pump innards. > Replace all fuel line hoses with ethanol tolerant hoses. > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > On Thu, Jan 26, 2017 at 9:03 AM, Simon Lachlan > wrote: > > It seems that the UK is to be blessed with this stuff. I?ve been > asked for my thoughts on the topic and, as I know nothing about > it, I?m looking for advice. > > See attached. > > What are your experiences? And what are the ?dos and don?ts?? > > Thanks, > > Simon > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 20:03:33 -0500 From: Charlie Baldwin To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Non Healey: Anyone looking for a project MG TD? Way too much money. It would be a worthwhile investment at half that. On 1/26/2017 1:12 PM, mike brouillette wrote: > > Just saw this on Ebay. If anyone is looking for a 1950 MG TD project, > this could be a good start with a buy it now at $7500. > > No interest? > > http://www.ebay.com/itm/272532817015? > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *i erbs > *Sent:* Thursday, January 26, 2017 12:54 PM > *To:* Ahealey help > *Subject:* [Healeys] Home built GTO Tribute > > https://youtu.be/hzNQUPR73Hw > > Guy built himself a fararri GTO... Hard to imagine what the bits he > had to buy cost > > Ira Erbs > > Portland,OR > > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 20:23:27 -0500 From: "Jim Lyons" To: Subject: [Healeys] DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? Hello All, I am looking to replace or repair the DASH TOP on my 1966 BJ8. I?m looking for recommendations for vendors who can supply the material that is closest to the original vinyl ?leathercloth?. I see that MOSS does offer a DASH TOP, PADDED, BLACK ( pt # 633-850 ) for $203. Does anyone sell a kit with just the material ? Thanks, Jim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 7 Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 17:43:41 -0800 From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=" To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol IMO: Ethanol is a boondoggle for farmers. It takes more energy to produce than it saves. -- Steve Gerow Altadena, CA BN6 Maker of most complete Big Healey rear disc kit ------------------------------ Message: 8 Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 21:10:29 -0500 From: "Mirek Sharp" To: "'Simon Lachlan'" , "'Healey List'" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Simon, we have been subjected to ethanol for some years here in Canada and confess I did absolutely nothing to my '59 BT7 to adjust to it. I rebuilt the carbs 3 years ago, but prior to that, they had whatever parts I fitted when I previously serviced them, probably 15-20 years ago. I don't thrash the car, and driving normally I noticed no difference in power, and since it is not my regular driver for work etc., I have never bothered much about fuel consumption (would it influence how much drive it?- No!). I can't even recall when I last serviced the fuel pump, it must be at least 25 -30 years ago, perhaps not since I put a new one in around 1975, just after I bought the car. I expect it would affect timing but I always fine-adjust this with the Vernier on the distributor after static setting per usual practice and I get no pinging. Being in Canada, the car is not driven during the salt season from around late November to late March(-ish). I don't top up or drain the tank, or add any fuel stabilizers, and it starts up and runs just fine in the spring (except for needing a boost some years). My advice is just drive it, and if something breaks, THEN fix it. To be clear, I not saying the ethanol has no effect, it plays havoc with the carburation on my vintage motorcycles, which are air-cooled and much less forgiving when burn-rate and combustion temperature are changed with the ethanol. I just think the Healeys, the 3000s at least, can cope with the changes more easily. The only other big effect I noticed is that it is attacking the lining I put in one of my BSA fuel tanks, and I will have to clean that out soon before completely breaks down (the solvent is methyl-ethyl ketone - I can't wait!). Good luck with it, Mirek From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan Sent: January-26-17 12:04 PM To: 'Healey List' Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol It seems that the UK is to be blessed with this stuff. I've been asked for my thoughts on the topic and, as I know nothing about it, I'm looking for advice. See attached. What are your experiences? And what are the "dos and don'ts"? Thanks, Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 9 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 04:12:33 +0000 From: Jean Caron To: Jim Lyons , "Healeys at autox.team.net" Subject: Re: [Healeys] DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? Message-ID: Jim, John Skinner in the UK sells it, good to deal with , reasonably priced. I am sure there are others too in the US. www.john.skinner.co.uk> Jean ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Jim Lyons Sent: January 27, 2017 1:23 AM To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? Hello All, I am looking to replace or repair the DASH TOP on my 1966 BJ8. I'm looking for recommendations for vendors who can supply the material that is closest to the original vinyl "leathercloth". I see that MOSS does offer a DASH TOP, PADDED, BLACK ( pt # 633-850 ) for $203. Does anyone sell a kit with just the material ? Thanks, Jim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 10 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 05:06:02 +0000 From: Richard Collins To: "Steve B. Gerow" Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Message-ID: I get a solid 12% LESS miles on Calif 91 octane (highest available) than I do here in KY with 93 octane (highest available) But I am seeing more 10% Ethanol fuel in KY than in previous years. But we have many ethanol free offerings in the area. Had to change fuel line on Healey recently when it began leaking from splits/disintegration. I smelled it before I found it. Nearly a fire risk. Regards, Richard Of KY BN7 #440 > On Jan 26, 2017, at 9:26 PM, Steve B. Gerow wrote: > > IMO: > Ethanol is a boondoggle for farmers. It takes more energy to produce than it saves. > > -- > Steve Gerow > Altadena, CA > BN6 > ------------------------------ Message: 11 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 07:07:02 +0100 (MET) From: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" To: Oudesluys , "Healeys, Forum" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Message-ID: <1485497222007.6248468.9f7d93919ffb3ba7849f922f045ff06a5fb1a9ee at spica.telekom.de> Here in Europe most Austin-Healeys (95%+) were completely restored with new parts, lines, hoses, fitted. I only know one or two cars out of 100 which only got a tidying up since they were built. So extremely rare. I have many friends who use E10 (95 Octane) in their classic cars without any problems. My Austin-Healeys need 98+ Octane, so I stay with the premium fuels from Shell (V-Power (101 Octane), or ARAL Ultimate (103 Octane). These premium fuels, or the Super Plus (98 Octane) contain below 5% Ethanol. So I haven?t faced any problems. I would have some problems using E10 (95 Octane), as it would cause after-run of the engines, which are eliminated with higher octane fuels. Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Datum: 2017-01-27T02:15:07+0100 Von: "Oudesluys" An: "healeys at autox.team.net" It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have presumably used E85 for years. This usually contains about 5% ethanol, sometimes considerably more. So you have already changed most if not all rubber parts with modern items that are ethanol resistant. If you still have original rubber parts e.g. hoses, replace them. It is unbelievable that some people still have original fuel hoses, brake hoses etc. fitted. They should have been replaced a very long time ago. Very risky. There are claims it can corrode aluminium alloy parts in the carbs and fuel pump, but I still have to see proper physical evidence of this. Pumps and carbs that have been exposed to ethanol containing petrol for donkeys years are mostly still absolutely clean. If the petrol is contaminated with water or if the carbs/pumps have been dry for years you may see some sediment or corrosion, but this is rare. Kees Oudesluijs Op 26-1-2017 om 20:06 schreef i erbs: eats rubber parts: hoses, carb diaphragms, and fuel pump innards. Replace all fuel line hoses with ethanol tolerant hoses. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Thu, Jan 26, 2017 at 9:03 AM, Simon Lachlan < wrote: It seems that the UK is to be blessed with this stuff. I?ve been asked for my thoughts on the topic and, as I know nothing about it, I?m looking for advice. See attached. What are your experiences? And what are the ?dos and don?ts?? Thanks, Simon _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 12 Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 22:54:48 -0800 From: "John Spaur" To: , "'Oudesluys'" , "'Healeys, Forum'" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Wish I could get 93 octane let alone 95 or 98! John San Jose, CA From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of josef-eckert at t-online.de Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 10:07 PM To: Oudesluys ; Healeys, Forum Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol ?I have many friends who use E10 (95 Octane) in their classic cars without any problems. My Austin-Healeys need 98+ Octane,? Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 13 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 07:59:51 +0100 (MET) From: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" To: John Spaur , "Healeys, Forum" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Message-ID: <1485500391228.6130407.3568cfdf787e44368a8b41d97a311d79d249f1fa at spica.telekom.de> John, as far as I know 95 grade "European Octane" is comparable with 91 grade "American Octane". Don?t know the reason for that, as I never went into it further. I.E. Afgas for plane engines is about 103 Octane Europe. Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: RE: [Healeys] Ethanol Datum: 2017-01-27T07:54:53+0100 Von: "John Spaur" An: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" , "'Oudesluys'" , "'Healeys, Forum'" Wish I could get 93 octane let alone 95 or 98! John San Jose, CA From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of josef-eckert at t-online.de Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 10:07 PM To: Oudesluys ; Healeys, Forum Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol ?I have many friends who use E10 (95 Octane) in their classic cars without any problems. My Austin-Healeys need 98+ Octane,? Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 14 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 07:58:38 +0000 From: Derek Job To: Jim Lyons Cc: Forum Subject: Re: [Healeys] DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? Message-ID: AH Spares sell the leather cloth by the metre. Derek On Fri, Jan 27, 2017 at 1:23 AM, Jim Lyons wrote: > Hello All, > I am looking to replace or repair the DASH TOP on my 1966 BJ8. I?m looking > for recommendations for vendors who can supply the material that is > closest to the original vinyl ?leathercloth?. > I see that MOSS does offer a DASH TOP, PADDED, BLACK ( pt # 633-850 ) for > $203. Does anyone sell a kit with just the material ? > > Thanks, > Jim > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 15 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 10:44:27 +0100 From: Oudesluys To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol In Europe there was often a substantial amount of ethanol in post war petrol wel into the '60's. Petrol was not of the best quality and ethanol was used as an octane booster. Not many problems at the time. Kees Oudesluijs Op 26-1-2017 om 21:20 schreef Michael Salter: > /I doubt many if any cars in UK are E85 compliant. All fuel lines > made prior to 1995 in US were NOT ethanol ready and will fall apart > readily. > > /Hi Randy, > Your note has raised a very interesting question. > Have you had any experience with original Petroflex hoses failing due > to ethanol? > We have been subjected to ethanol for many years now and I cannot > recall even one incidence of a Petroflex failure that I could > attribute to it. > My own 100 has an original > ? NOS? > Smiths Petroflex hose joining the main fuel line to the carb fuel pipe > and although it has only been on the road for 2 years since > restoration I have not seen any signs of failure and the hose is still > very flexible. > ?I do know that if you subject a Petroflex hose to "Varsol" ?cleaning > fluid it deteriorates rapidly and that should definitely be avoided at > all costs. > Would appreciate your thoughts. > > Michael S > > > > > > /?/ > ? > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 16 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 13:25:03 +0100 From: Oudesluys To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Op 26-1-2017 om 23:59 schreef Oudesluys: > It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have > presumably used E85 for years Should of course be E95 Kees Oudesluijs ------------------------------ Message: 17 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 08:33:12 -0500 From: Bob Haskell To: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" , John Spaur , "Healeys, Forum" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol John and Josef, There are two methods for measuring octane rating - motoring and research. The average of the two is used in the US. The higher research octane number is used in Europe. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 01/27/2017 01:59 AM, josef-eckert at t-online.de wrote: > John, > > as far as I know 95 grade "European Octane" is comparable with 91 grade > "American Octane". Don?t know the reason for that, as I never went into > it further. I.E. Afgas for plane engines is about 103 Octane Europe. > > Josef Eckert > > K?nigswinter/Germany > > -----Original-Nachricht----- > > Betreff: RE: [Healeys] Ethanol > > Datum: 2017-01-27T07:54:53+0100 > > Von: "John Spaur" > > An: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" , "'Oudesluys'" > , "'Healeys, Forum'" > > Wish I could get 93 octane let alone 95 or 98! > > John > > San Jose, CA > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *josef-eckert at t-online.de > *Sent:* Thursday, January 26, 2017 10:07 PM > *To:* Oudesluys ; Healeys, Forum > > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > > ?I have many friends who use E10 (95 Octane) in their classic cars > without any problems. My Austin-Healeys need 98+ Octane,? > > Josef Eckert > > K?nigswinter/Germany > > ? > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > ------------------------------ Message: 18 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 06:05:03 -0800 From: i erbs To: Jim Lyons Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? Message-ID: Mods sells material by the yard Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes Portland,OR On Jan 26, 2017 6:52 PM, "Jim Lyons" wrote: > Hello All, > I am looking to replace or repair the DASH TOP on my 1966 BJ8. I?m looking > for recommendations for vendors who can supply the material that is > closest to the original vinyl ?leathercloth?. > I see that MOSS does offer a DASH TOP, PADDED, BLACK ( pt # 633-850 ) for > $203. Does anyone sell a kit with just the material ? > > Thanks, > Jim > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 19 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 14:14:30 +0000 (UTC) From: Bob Spidell To: Michael Salter Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Message-ID: <1341990277.104838709.1485526470549.JavaMail.zimbra at comcast.net> My BJ8 has had a Petroflex line in it for 100K+ miles and 25+ years and hasn't had a problem. It does feel a little stiff and since I'm doing an overhaul I've bought a replacement (watch it crap out in 3 months ;). Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Salter" To: "Randy Alkins" , "healeys" Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 12:20:56 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol I doubt many if any cars in UK are E85 compliant. All fuel lines made prior to 1995 in US were NOT ethanol ready and will fall apart readily. Hi Randy, Your note has raised a very interesting question. Have you had any experience with original Petroflex hoses failing due to ethanol? We have been subjected to ethanol for many years now and I cannot recall even one incidence of a Petroflex failure that I could attribute to it. My own 100 has an original ? NOS? Smiths Petroflex hose joining the main fuel line to the carb fuel pipe and although it has only been on the road for 2 years since restoration I have not seen any signs of failure and the hose is still very flexible. ?I do know that if you subject a Petroflex hose to "Varsol" ?cleaning fluid it deteriorates rapidly and that should definitely be avoided at all costs. Would appreciate your thoughts. Michael S ? ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 20 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 14:20:02 +0000 (UTC) From: Bob Spidell To: "Richard J. Hockert" Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Message-ID: <528184118.104844061.1485526802079.JavaMail.zimbra at comcast.net> Ethanol has a much lower energy content than gasoline, hence the lower mileage with gasahol. See here: http://www.afdc.energy.gov/fuels/fuel_comparison_chart.pdf ('alternate fuels,' not 'alternate facts') It does, however, have a higher octane rating allowing the huge compression ratios in dragsters and other racers; which is what produces the massive power in those engines. Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard J. Hockert" To: "David Nock BCS" , "Simon Lachlan" , "Healey List" Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 1:36:42 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol The correct AFR for alcohol (ethanol) is around 8 to 1 versus gasoline at 14.7 to 1. Switching to 10% ethanol should equate to about a 5% richer mixture. Ethanol produces more power than gasoline ? hence alcohol race engines but much more fuel required. Your mileage will suffer. Best regards, Jim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 21 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 15:36:53 +0000 (UTC) From: Bob Spidell To: John Spaur Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Message-ID: <1823390093.104910346.1485531413259.JavaMail.zimbra at comcast.net> I believe the European octane ratings are Research Method only, which reads 3-5 points higher than US (R+M)/2. So, European 98 octane would be equivalent to US 93 octane (rare, but available in some areas in the States; 100-octane is available for boat engines around Havasu). Contrary to popular belief, ethanol can actually raise octane. There's a gas station in Los Altos that used to sell 95-octane, which was E10 IIRC. It's very difficult to raise the octane rating of pure gas--it requires special refining--that's why TEL was added starting around WWII for high-compression fighter engines (it was 'discovered' at the Sloan-Kettering institute, who tested several thousand compounds before settling on TEL). Adding ethanol to gasoline means the gas part doesn't have to be as carefully refined (hence 'cheaper'). There is an exhaustive research program being undertaken in order to develop an aviation fuel to replace 100LL--100-octane, 'low-lead,' which I believe is 'only' 2 grams/gallon of elemental lead vs. 3 grams/gallon of previous formulations--and it is proceeding very slowly due to its complexity. I've run tanks of E10 and tanks of pure gas, and didn't notice any significant variance in mileage, but it's usually an 'oranges-to-apples' comparison since most runs involve a mix of highway/freeway and grades, stop-and-go, etc. ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Spaur" To: josef-eckert at t-online.de, "Oudesluys" , "Forum' 'Healeys" Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 10:54:48 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Wish I could get 93 octane let alone 95 or 98! John San Jose, CA -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 22 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 15:43:12 +0000 (UTC) From: Bob Spidell To: Oudesluys Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Message-ID: <532867142.104914937.1485531792988.JavaMail.zimbra at comcast.net> OK, now I be confused. In the States, E10 is 10% ethanol, E85 is 85% ethanol, so E95 would be 95% ethanol. Is that correct? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Oudesluys" To: "healeys" Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 4:25:03 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Op 26-1-2017 om 23:59 schreef Oudesluys: > It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have > presumably used E85 for years Should of course be E95 Kees Oudesluijs -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 23 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 11:04:04 -0500 From: Wayne To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BJ-8 rear end housing Hello, My rear end housing is bent and I may need a replacement. I would be interested in a complete assembly or just the housing itself. I discovered the problem when I had difficulty removing the rear axles, and once they are out they bind on the hub studs preventing reassembly. I will pull the differential today and install the axles to see how bad the misalignment is. I am located in CT. Wayne ------------------------------ Message: 24 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 12:04:54 -0500 From: randyalkins To: Bob Spidell , Oudesluys Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Have not heard of 95. There is talk of e15 which will be bad for all. 10 was bad. And some warranties will be denied by engine maufacturers if it goes to 15 Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device-------- Original message --------From: Bob Spidell Date: 1/27/2017 10:43 AM (GMT-05:00) To: Oudesluys Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol OK, now I be confused.? In the States, E10 is 10% ethanol, E85 is 85% ethanol, so E95 would be 95% ethanol.? Is that correct? From: "Oudesluys" To: "healeys" Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 4:25:03 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Op 26-1-2017 om 23:59 schreef Oudesluys: > It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have > presumably used E85 for years Should of course be E95 Kees Oudesluijs -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 25 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 10:54:38 -0800 From: "David Nock" To: "Bob Spidell" , "Oudesluys" Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Check out this report/ road test of a comparison of E85 to Gas. https://www.edmunds.com/fuel-economy/e85-vs-gasoline-comparison-test.html Here at the shop we have been dealing with this problem for a long time with a lot of cars. And found the same problems with all of them, some worse than others. Overheating due the removal of the gas and addition of the Ethanol. The Ethanol burns hotter which reduces emissions. This causes older cars to run hotter. Lower gas mileage and lower performance Miss fires and Lack of power due to the leaner mixture. The is especially worse on a Tri Carb Healey, the rear carb will lean out on a long hard run at a steady hight rpm. Also Ethanol has a very strong cleaning ability, So if you start using Ethanol in a older gas tank or a tank that has been sitting for while that has a lot of varnish build up. The Ethanol will go about its cleaning ability and clean up all that varnish in the tank and deposit it in the carburettors. I know that there are lots of those out there that have all the techy stuff. But I go by what I have learned by over 40 year of working on all British cars and lots of them. The bottom line with 10 % Ethanol your Vintage car will run hotter, get worse fuel economy and may experience miss fires under heavy acceleration. David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 209 948 8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: Bob Spidell Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 7:43 AM To: Oudesluys Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol OK, now I be confused. In the States, E10 is 10% ethanol, E85 is 85% ethanol, so E95 would be 95% ethanol. Is that correct? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Oudesluys" To: "healeys" Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 4:25:03 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Op 26-1-2017 om 23:59 schreef Oudesluys: > It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have > presumably used E85 for years Should of course be E95 Kees Oudesluijs -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ Healeys mailing list Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys ------------------------------ End of Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 33 *************************************** -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From molony at dodo.com.au Fri Jan 27 17:04:19 2017 From: molony at dodo.com.au (Graeme Molony) Date: Sat, 28 Jan 2017 11:04:19 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Correct Jack for a 54 BN1 References: Simon Have a look at the web site www:classic-british-car-jacks.uk and check out the photo?s and information on both King Dick and Shelley jacks. I think you will find what you require. If memory serves me correctly Roger Moment produced a comprehensive article which appeared some time ago in one of the American magazines which listed and showed photo?s of all the original Healey Jacks. Some one on the list may be able to steer you to a copy Graeme M Mt Martha Aust. From: Simon Griffin Sent: Saturday, January 28, 2017 6:21 AM To: healeys Subject: [Healeys] Correct Jack for a 54 BN1 For my MG TD I have a nice Shelley 6DL jack and set of handles. This Jack looks very much like the King Dick Jack. What I am not sure about is what is the correct Jack for the 100 in late 54? Was it a Shelley or a King Dick or were they both used? For the TD it could be either in 53 (mine was built July 53) and it would have had a set of handles split in half that were turned with a 9 1/2 " tommy bar. I have also seen handles with a larger hole and a wooden handle to turn. Can anyone confirm what is correct for the 100? Thanks Simon -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jstmorris at yahoo.com Fri Jan 27 19:25:40 2017 From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris) Date: Sat, 28 Jan 2017 02:25:40 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Correct Jack for a 54 BN1 References: Hello Simon;? The attached article by Roger Moment may be of some interest and help. ?--Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives On Friday, January 27, 2017 6:15 PM, Simon Griffin wrote: For my MG TD I have a nice Shelley 6DL jack and set of handles. ? This Jack looks very much like the King Dick Jack. ? What I am not sure about is what is the correct Jack for the 100 in late 54? ? Was it a Shelley or a King Dick or were they both used? For the TD it could be either in 53 (mine was built July 53) and it would have had a set of handles split in half that were turned with a 9 1/2 " tommy bar. ? I have also seen handles with a larger hole and a wooden handle to turn. ? Can anyone confirm what is correct for the 100? ThanksSimon _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Jacks-Concours-Article by Roger Moment a.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 227540 bytes Desc: not available URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Jan 27 19:57:03 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 18:57:03 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] anyone looking for a project car? http://tinyurl.com/hm9y222 Looks to me like you would be paying $4K for a vin #, but some people like a challenge Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From SIMON_GRIF at msn.com Fri Jan 27 20:02:40 2017 From: SIMON_GRIF at msn.com (Simon Griffin) Date: Sat, 28 Jan 2017 03:02:40 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Correct Jack for a 54 BN1 References: , <1764110728.685160.1485570340273@mail.yahoo.com> Scott and Graeme, thanks very much, just the information I needed. I had no idea that there were so many changes in the jack models during the short production period for the car. ________________________________ From: J. Scott Morris Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 8:25 PM To: Simon Griffin; healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Correct Jack for a 54 BN1 Hello Simon; The attached article by Roger Moment may be of some interest and help. --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives On Friday, January 27, 2017 6:15 PM, Simon Griffin wrote: For my MG TD I have a nice Shelley 6DL jack and set of handles. This Jack looks very much like the King Dick Jack. What I am not sure about is what is the correct Jack for the 100 in late 54? Was it a Shelley or a King Dick or were they both used? For the TD it could be either in 53 (mine was built July 53) and it would have had a set of handles split in half that were turned with a 9 1/2 " tommy bar. I have also seen handles with a larger hole and a wooden handle to turn. Can anyone confirm what is correct for the 100? Thanks Simon _______________________________________________ www.team.net www.team.net The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Mail Archives - Team.Net www.team.net Team.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest updated. http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Fri Jan 27 20:03:27 2017 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 19:03:27 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?ethanol?= my healey is sitting now awaiting two new jet assemblys. noticed that every time i used the choke gas was coming out bottom of front carb. took it off and discovered a small hole that would come open when i used the choke. the rubber was getting hard and inflexible. i am assuming the new ones are much better because they sure do cost a lot more than the old ones. think that was the last of my old style rubber parts to be changed out. From SIMON_GRIF at msn.com Fri Jan 27 20:12:54 2017 From: SIMON_GRIF at msn.com (Simon Griffin) Date: Sat, 28 Jan 2017 03:12:54 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Correct Jack for a 54 BN1 References: , <1764110728.685160.1485570340273@mail.yahoo.com> Scott and Graeme, thanks very much, just the information I needed. I had no idea that there were so many changes in the jack models during the short production period for the car. ________________________________ From: J. Scott Morris Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 8:25 PM To: Simon Griffin; healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Correct Jack for a 54 BN1 Hello Simon; The attached article by Roger Moment may be of some interest and help. --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives On Friday, January 27, 2017 6:15 PM, Simon Griffin wrote: For my MG TD I have a nice Shelley 6DL jack and set of handles. This Jack looks very much like the King Dick Jack. What I am not sure about is what is the correct Jack for the 100 in late 54? Was it a Shelley or a King Dick or were they both used? For the TD it could be either in 53 (mine was built July 53) and it would have had a set of handles split in half that were turned with a 9 1/2 " tommy bar. I have also seen handles with a larger hole and a wooden handle to turn. Can anyone confirm what is correct for the 100? Thanks Simon _______________________________________________ www.team.net www.team.net The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Jan 27 20:13:46 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 28 Jan 2017 03:13:46 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol References: <000301d277f6$20e6c320$62b44960$@homecall.co.uk> <1DD174907DBE47FB9EBFE34D5B050B24@DavidNockHP> <067501d2781c$4a0d2ac0$de278040$@att.net> <528184118.104844061.1485526802079.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net> <002d01d278eb$260e6150$722b23f0$@com.au> Ah, right you are. It's just that I much prefer ethanol ;) Same deal with anti-detonation qualities though, I believe. Now, if they'd just put nitromethane in gas ... ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Rowe" To: "Bob Spidell" , "Richard J. Hockert" Cc: "healeys" Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 2:17:28 PM Subject: RE: [Healeys] Ethanol Bob, I think you will find that dragsters run on methanol, which is a different kettle of fish. In Australia we have E10 (10%) supposedly 94?? octane. I won?t use it in my Healeys as it is rubbish (2c per litre cheaper than 91 unleaded). One small fuel company makes E85 which a friend uses in a Datsun 1600 (510) race car fitted with EFI. He had to increase the fuelling by 30% from that for 100 octane Av-gas to obtain the same hp figures. The exhaust stink is sickly and sweet and unbearable. Might be great for the environment, not good for humans I use 95 or 98 octane in all my cars. For the low mileage they do, the extra expense is negligible. I totally agree with David Nocks comments in his recent email John Rowe Qld Australia BN1 BT7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Saturday, 28 January 2017 12:20 AM To: Richard J. Hockert Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Ethanol has a much lower energy content than gasoline, hence the lower mileage with gasahol. See here: http://www.afdc.energy.gov/fuels/fuel_comparison_chart.pdf ('alternate fuels,' not 'alternate facts') It does, however, have a higher octane rating allowing the huge compression ratios in dragsters and other racers; which is what produces the massive power in those engines. Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard J. Hockert" < rjhco at att.net > To: "David Nock BCS" < healeydoc at sbcglobal.net >, "Simon Lachlan" < simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk >, "Healey List" < healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 1:36:42 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol The correct AFR for alcohol (ethanol) is around 8 to 1 versus gasoline at 14.7 to 1. Switching to 10% ethanol should equate to about a 5% richer mixture. Ethanol produces more power than gasoline ? hence alcohol race engines but much more fuel required. Your mileage will suffer. Best regards, Jim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From YNOTINK at msn.com Fri Jan 27 20:32:37 2017 From: YNOTINK at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Sat, 28 Jan 2017 03:32:37 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 soft brake pedal References: , This is a symptom of air bubbles in the brake fluid. The bubbles are compressed when the brakes are pumped and the brakes seem normal, but release the pressure and they expand again and you lose braking force. There are some characteristics of the Girling braking system that can make them hard to bleed. In some cases (100 and 100-6) the bleeders are lower than the brake cylinders so air bubbles may not move with the fluid as it is expelled. It may take extra effort to bleed them properly. ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of John and Judy Carter Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 11:07:30 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 soft brake pedal After bleeding brakes and car sits for a time the brake pedal is soft again. You can pump it up to a firm pedal but it is soft again at the next application. This occurs whether you are driving the car or not (brake booster is fairly new). I cannot find any leaks and the reservoir stays full(silicone fluid). ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of healeys-request at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 2:00 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 33 Send Healeys mailing list submissions to healeys at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net autox.team.net To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to healeys-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at healeys-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: Ethanol (i erbs) 2. Re: Ethanol (Michael Salter) 3. Re: Ethanol (Richard J. Hockert) 4. Re: Ethanol (Oudesluys) 5. Re: Non Healey: Anyone looking for a project MG TD? (Charlie Baldwin) 6. DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? (Jim Lyons) 7. Re: Ethanol (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) 8. Re: Ethanol (Mirek Sharp) 9. Re: DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? (Jean Caron) 10. Re: Ethanol (Richard Collins) 11. Re: Ethanol (josef-eckert at t-online.de) 12. Re: Ethanol (John Spaur) 13. Re: Ethanol (josef-eckert at t-online.de) 14. Re: DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? (Derek Job) 15. Re: Ethanol (Oudesluys) 16. Re: Ethanol (Oudesluys) 17. Re: Ethanol (Bob Haskell) 18. Re: DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? (i erbs) 19. Re: Ethanol (Bob Spidell) 20. Re: Ethanol (Bob Spidell) 21. Re: Ethanol (Bob Spidell) 22. Re: Ethanol (Bob Spidell) 23. BJ-8 rear end housing (Wayne) 24. Re: Ethanol (randyalkins) 25. Re: Ethanol (David Nock) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 11:06:15 -0800 From: i erbs To: Simon Lachlan Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Message-ID: eats rubber parts: hoses, carb diaphragms, and fuel pump innards. Replace all fuel line hoses with ethanol tolerant hoses. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Thu, Jan 26, 2017 at 9:03 AM, Simon Lachlan wrote: > It seems that the UK is to be blessed with this stuff. I?ve been asked for > my thoughts on the topic and, as I know nothing about it, I?m looking for > advice. > > See attached. > > What are your experiences? And what are the ?dos and don?ts?? > > Thanks, > > Simon > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html www.team.net www.team.net The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Mail Archives - Team.Net www.team.net Team.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest updated. > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net autox.team.net To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 15:20:56 -0500 From: Michael Salter To: Randy Alkins , "healeys at autox.team.net" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Message-ID: *I doubt many if any cars in UK are E85 compliant. All fuel lines made prior to 1995 in US were NOT ethanol ready and will fall apart readily.*Hi Randy, Your note has raised a very interesting question. Have you had any experience with original Petroflex hoses failing due to ethanol? We have been subjected to ethanol for many years now and I cannot recall even one incidence of a Petroflex failure that I could attribute to it. My own 100 has an original ? NOS? Smiths Petroflex hose joining the main fuel line to the carb fuel pipe and although it has only been on the road for 2 years since restoration I have not seen any signs of failure and the hose is still very flexible. ?I do know that if you subject a Petroflex hose to "Varsol" ?cleaning fluid it deteriorates rapidly and that should definitely be avoided at all costs. Would appreciate your thoughts. Michael S *?* ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 15:36:42 -0600 From: "Richard J. Hockert" To: "'David Nock BCS'" , "'Simon Lachlan'" , "'Healey List'" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol The correct AFR for alcohol (ethanol) is around 8 to 1 versus gasoline at 14.7 to 1. Switching to 10% ethanol should equate to about a 5% richer mixture. Ethanol produces more power than gasoline ? hence alcohol race engines but much more fuel required. Your mileage will suffer. Best regards, Jim From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Nock BCS Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 12:49 PM To: Simon Lachlan; 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol The issues with the Ethanol will depend on the percentage of Ethanol they will be putting in. Here in California most of the Ethanol is 10%. However they are talking about raising that and if they do we will start having real problems. The most common issues we run into are . Overheating and miss fires under heavy load due to lean mixtures. Especially worse on the Tri Carb. This can usually be cured by installing the Rich needles. The other issues are lack of power and lower gas mileage. David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 9:03 AM Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol It seems that the UK is to be blessed with this stuff. I?ve been asked for my thoughts on the topic and, as I know nothing about it, I?m looking for advice. See attached. What are your experiences? And what are the ?dos and don?ts?? Thanks, Simon _____ _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 23:59:22 +0100 From: Oudesluys To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have presumably used E85 for years. This usually contains about 5% ethanol, sometimes considerably more. So you have already changed most if not all rubber parts with modern items that are ethanol resistant. If you still have original rubber parts e.g. hoses, replace them. It is unbelievable that some people still have original fuel hoses, brake hoses etc. fitted. They should have been replaced a very long time ago. Very risky. There are claims it can corrode aluminium alloy parts in the carbs and fuel pump, but I still have to see proper physical evidence of this. Pumps and carbs that have been exposed to ethanol containing petrol for donkeys years are mostly still absolutely clean. If the petrol is contaminated with water or if the carbs/pumps have been dry for years you may see some sediment or corrosion, but this is rare. Kees Oudesluijs Op 26-1-2017 om 20:06 schreef i erbs: > eats rubber parts: hoses, carb diaphragms, and fuel pump innards. > Replace all fuel line hoses with ethanol tolerant hoses. > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > On Thu, Jan 26, 2017 at 9:03 AM, Simon Lachlan > wrote: > > It seems that the UK is to be blessed with this stuff. I?ve been > asked for my thoughts on the topic and, as I know nothing about > it, I?m looking for advice. > > See attached. > > What are your experiences? And what are the ?dos and don?ts?? > > Thanks, > > Simon > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 20:03:33 -0500 From: Charlie Baldwin To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Non Healey: Anyone looking for a project MG TD? Way too much money. It would be a worthwhile investment at half that. On 1/26/2017 1:12 PM, mike brouillette wrote: > > Just saw this on Ebay. If anyone is looking for a 1950 MG TD project, > this could be a good start with a buy it now at $7500. > > No interest? > > http://www.ebay.com/itm/272532817015? > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *i erbs > *Sent:* Thursday, January 26, 2017 12:54 PM > *To:* Ahealey help > *Subject:* [Healeys] Home built GTO Tribute > > https://youtu.be/hzNQUPR73Hw > > Guy built himself a fararri GTO... Hard to imagine what the bits he > had to buy cost > > Ira Erbs > > Portland,OR > > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 20:23:27 -0500 From: "Jim Lyons" To: Subject: [Healeys] DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? Hello All, I am looking to replace or repair the DASH TOP on my 1966 BJ8. I?m looking for recommendations for vendors who can supply the material that is closest to the original vinyl ?leathercloth?. I see that MOSS does offer a DASH TOP, PADDED, BLACK ( pt # 633-850 ) for $203. Does anyone sell a kit with just the material ? Thanks, Jim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 7 Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 17:43:41 -0800 From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=" To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol IMO: Ethanol is a boondoggle for farmers. It takes more energy to produce than it saves. -- Steve Gerow Altadena, CA BN6 Maker of most complete Big Healey rear disc kit ------------------------------ Message: 8 Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 21:10:29 -0500 From: "Mirek Sharp" To: "'Simon Lachlan'" , "'Healey List'" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Simon, we have been subjected to ethanol for some years here in Canada and confess I did absolutely nothing to my '59 BT7 to adjust to it. I rebuilt the carbs 3 years ago, but prior to that, they had whatever parts I fitted when I previously serviced them, probably 15-20 years ago. I don't thrash the car, and driving normally I noticed no difference in power, and since it is not my regular driver for work etc., I have never bothered much about fuel consumption (would it influence how much drive it?- No!). I can't even recall when I last serviced the fuel pump, it must be at least 25 -30 years ago, perhaps not since I put a new one in around 1975, just after I bought the car. I expect it would affect timing but I always fine-adjust this with the Vernier on the distributor after static setting per usual practice and I get no pinging. Being in Canada, the car is not driven during the salt season from around late November to late March(-ish). I don't top up or drain the tank, or add any fuel stabilizers, and it starts up and runs just fine in the spring (except for needing a boost some years). My advice is just drive it, and if something breaks, THEN fix it. To be clear, I not saying the ethanol has no effect, it plays havoc with the carburation on my vintage motorcycles, which are air-cooled and much less forgiving when burn-rate and combustion temperature are changed with the ethanol. I just think the Healeys, the 3000s at least, can cope with the changes more easily. The only other big effect I noticed is that it is attacking the lining I put in one of my BSA fuel tanks, and I will have to clean that out soon before completely breaks down (the solvent is methyl-ethyl ketone - I can't wait!). Good luck with it, Mirek From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan Sent: January-26-17 12:04 PM To: 'Healey List' Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol It seems that the UK is to be blessed with this stuff. I've been asked for my thoughts on the topic and, as I know nothing about it, I'm looking for advice. See attached. What are your experiences? And what are the "dos and don'ts"? Thanks, Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 9 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 04:12:33 +0000 From: Jean Caron To: Jim Lyons , "Healeys at autox.team.net" Subject: Re: [Healeys] DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? Message-ID: Jim, John Skinner in the UK sells it, good to deal with , reasonably priced. I am sure there are others too in the US. www.john.skinner.co.uk> Jean ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Jim Lyons Sent: January 27, 2017 1:23 AM To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? Hello All, I am looking to replace or repair the DASH TOP on my 1966 BJ8. I'm looking for recommendations for vendors who can supply the material that is closest to the original vinyl "leathercloth". I see that MOSS does offer a DASH TOP, PADDED, BLACK ( pt # 633-850 ) for $203. Does anyone sell a kit with just the material ? Thanks, Jim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 10 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 05:06:02 +0000 From: Richard Collins To: "Steve B. Gerow" Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Message-ID: I get a solid 12% LESS miles on Calif 91 octane (highest available) than I do here in KY with 93 octane (highest available) But I am seeing more 10% Ethanol fuel in KY than in previous years. But we have many ethanol free offerings in the area. Had to change fuel line on Healey recently when it began leaking from splits/disintegration. I smelled it before I found it. Nearly a fire risk. Regards, Richard Of KY BN7 #440 > On Jan 26, 2017, at 9:26 PM, Steve B. Gerow wrote: > > IMO: > Ethanol is a boondoggle for farmers. It takes more energy to produce than it saves. > > -- > Steve Gerow > Altadena, CA > BN6 > ------------------------------ Message: 11 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 07:07:02 +0100 (MET) From: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" To: Oudesluys , "Healeys, Forum" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Message-ID: <1485497222007.6248468.9f7d93919ffb3ba7849f922f045ff06a5fb1a9ee at spica.telekom.de> Here in Europe most Austin-Healeys (95%+) were completely restored with new parts, lines, hoses, fitted. I only know one or two cars out of 100 which only got a tidying up since they were built. So extremely rare. I have many friends who use E10 (95 Octane) in their classic cars without any problems. My Austin-Healeys need 98+ Octane, so I stay with the premium fuels from Shell (V-Power (101 Octane), or ARAL Ultimate (103 Octane). These premium fuels, or the Super Plus (98 Octane) contain below 5% Ethanol. So I haven?t faced any problems. I would have some problems using E10 (95 Octane), as it would cause after-run of the engines, which are eliminated with higher octane fuels. Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Datum: 2017-01-27T02:15:07+0100 Von: "Oudesluys" An: "healeys at autox.team.net" It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have presumably used E85 for years. This usually contains about 5% ethanol, sometimes considerably more. So you have already changed most if not all rubber parts with modern items that are ethanol resistant. If you still have original rubber parts e.g. hoses, replace them. It is unbelievable that some people still have original fuel hoses, brake hoses etc. fitted. They should have been replaced a very long time ago. Very risky. There are claims it can corrode aluminium alloy parts in the carbs and fuel pump, but I still have to see proper physical evidence of this. Pumps and carbs that have been exposed to ethanol containing petrol for donkeys years are mostly still absolutely clean. If the petrol is contaminated with water or if the carbs/pumps have been dry for years you may see some sediment or corrosion, but this is rare. Kees Oudesluijs Op 26-1-2017 om 20:06 schreef i erbs: eats rubber parts: hoses, carb diaphragms, and fuel pump innards. Replace all fuel line hoses with ethanol tolerant hoses. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Thu, Jan 26, 2017 at 9:03 AM, Simon Lachlan < wrote: It seems that the UK is to be blessed with this stuff. I?ve been asked for my thoughts on the topic and, as I know nothing about it, I?m looking for advice. See attached. What are your experiences? And what are the ?dos and don?ts?? Thanks, Simon _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 12 Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 22:54:48 -0800 From: "John Spaur" To: , "'Oudesluys'" , "'Healeys, Forum'" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Wish I could get 93 octane let alone 95 or 98! John San Jose, CA From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of josef-eckert at t-online.de Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 10:07 PM To: Oudesluys ; Healeys, Forum Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol ?I have many friends who use E10 (95 Octane) in their classic cars without any problems. My Austin-Healeys need 98+ Octane,? Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 13 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 07:59:51 +0100 (MET) From: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" To: John Spaur , "Healeys, Forum" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Message-ID: <1485500391228.6130407.3568cfdf787e44368a8b41d97a311d79d249f1fa at spica.telekom.de> John, as far as I know 95 grade "European Octane" is comparable with 91 grade "American Octane". Don?t know the reason for that, as I never went into it further. I.E. Afgas for plane engines is about 103 Octane Europe. Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: RE: [Healeys] Ethanol Datum: 2017-01-27T07:54:53+0100 Von: "John Spaur" An: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" , "'Oudesluys'" , "'Healeys, Forum'" Wish I could get 93 octane let alone 95 or 98! John San Jose, CA From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of josef-eckert at t-online.de Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 10:07 PM To: Oudesluys ; Healeys, Forum Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol ?I have many friends who use E10 (95 Octane) in their classic cars without any problems. My Austin-Healeys need 98+ Octane,? Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 14 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 07:58:38 +0000 From: Derek Job To: Jim Lyons Cc: Forum Subject: Re: [Healeys] DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? Message-ID: AH Spares sell the leather cloth by the metre. Derek On Fri, Jan 27, 2017 at 1:23 AM, Jim Lyons wrote: > Hello All, > I am looking to replace or repair the DASH TOP on my 1966 BJ8. I?m looking > for recommendations for vendors who can supply the material that is > closest to the original vinyl ?leathercloth?. > I see that MOSS does offer a DASH TOP, PADDED, BLACK ( pt # 633-850 ) for > $203. Does anyone sell a kit with just the material ? > > Thanks, > Jim > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 15 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 10:44:27 +0100 From: Oudesluys To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol In Europe there was often a substantial amount of ethanol in post war petrol wel into the '60's. Petrol was not of the best quality and ethanol was used as an octane booster. Not many problems at the time. Kees Oudesluijs Op 26-1-2017 om 21:20 schreef Michael Salter: > /I doubt many if any cars in UK are E85 compliant. All fuel lines > made prior to 1995 in US were NOT ethanol ready and will fall apart > readily. > > /Hi Randy, > Your note has raised a very interesting question. > Have you had any experience with original Petroflex hoses failing due > to ethanol? > We have been subjected to ethanol for many years now and I cannot > recall even one incidence of a Petroflex failure that I could > attribute to it. > My own 100 has an original > ? NOS? > Smiths Petroflex hose joining the main fuel line to the carb fuel pipe > and although it has only been on the road for 2 years since > restoration I have not seen any signs of failure and the hose is still > very flexible. > ?I do know that if you subject a Petroflex hose to "Varsol" ?cleaning > fluid it deteriorates rapidly and that should definitely be avoided at > all costs. > Would appreciate your thoughts. > > Michael S > > > > > > /?/ > ? > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 16 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 13:25:03 +0100 From: Oudesluys To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Op 26-1-2017 om 23:59 schreef Oudesluys: > It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have > presumably used E85 for years Should of course be E95 Kees Oudesluijs ------------------------------ Message: 17 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 08:33:12 -0500 From: Bob Haskell To: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" , John Spaur , "Healeys, Forum" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol John and Josef, There are two methods for measuring octane rating - motoring and research. The average of the two is used in the US. The higher research octane number is used in Europe. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 01/27/2017 01:59 AM, josef-eckert at t-online.de wrote: > John, > > as far as I know 95 grade "European Octane" is comparable with 91 grade > "American Octane". Don?t know the reason for that, as I never went into > it further. I.E. Afgas for plane engines is about 103 Octane Europe. > > Josef Eckert > > K?nigswinter/Germany > > -----Original-Nachricht----- > > Betreff: RE: [Healeys] Ethanol > > Datum: 2017-01-27T07:54:53+0100 > > Von: "John Spaur" > > An: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" , "'Oudesluys'" > , "'Healeys, Forum'" > > Wish I could get 93 octane let alone 95 or 98! > > John > > San Jose, CA > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *josef-eckert at t-online.de > *Sent:* Thursday, January 26, 2017 10:07 PM > *To:* Oudesluys ; Healeys, Forum > > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > > ?I have many friends who use E10 (95 Octane) in their classic cars > without any problems. My Austin-Healeys need 98+ Octane,? > > Josef Eckert > > K?nigswinter/Germany > > ? > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > ------------------------------ Message: 18 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 06:05:03 -0800 From: i erbs To: Jim Lyons Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? Message-ID: Mods sells material by the yard Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes Portland,OR On Jan 26, 2017 6:52 PM, "Jim Lyons" wrote: > Hello All, > I am looking to replace or repair the DASH TOP on my 1966 BJ8. I?m looking > for recommendations for vendors who can supply the material that is > closest to the original vinyl ?leathercloth?. > I see that MOSS does offer a DASH TOP, PADDED, BLACK ( pt # 633-850 ) for > $203. Does anyone sell a kit with just the material ? > > Thanks, > Jim > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 19 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 14:14:30 +0000 (UTC) From: Bob Spidell To: Michael Salter Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Message-ID: <1341990277.104838709.1485526470549.JavaMail.zimbra at comcast.net> My BJ8 has had a Petroflex line in it for 100K+ miles and 25+ years and hasn't had a problem. It does feel a little stiff and since I'm doing an overhaul I've bought a replacement (watch it crap out in 3 months ;). Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Salter" To: "Randy Alkins" , "healeys" Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 12:20:56 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol I doubt many if any cars in UK are E85 compliant. All fuel lines made prior to 1995 in US were NOT ethanol ready and will fall apart readily. Hi Randy, Your note has raised a very interesting question. Have you had any experience with original Petroflex hoses failing due to ethanol? We have been subjected to ethanol for many years now and I cannot recall even one incidence of a Petroflex failure that I could attribute to it. My own 100 has an original ? NOS? Smiths Petroflex hose joining the main fuel line to the carb fuel pipe and although it has only been on the road for 2 years since restoration I have not seen any signs of failure and the hose is still very flexible. ?I do know that if you subject a Petroflex hose to "Varsol" ?cleaning fluid it deteriorates rapidly and that should definitely be avoided at all costs. Would appreciate your thoughts. Michael S ? ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 20 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 14:20:02 +0000 (UTC) From: Bob Spidell To: "Richard J. Hockert" Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Message-ID: <528184118.104844061.1485526802079.JavaMail.zimbra at comcast.net> Ethanol has a much lower energy content than gasoline, hence the lower mileage with gasahol. See here: http://www.afdc.energy.gov/fuels/fuel_comparison_chart.pdf ('alternate fuels,' not 'alternate facts') It does, however, have a higher octane rating allowing the huge compression ratios in dragsters and other racers; which is what produces the massive power in those engines. Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard J. Hockert" To: "David Nock BCS" , "Simon Lachlan" , "Healey List" Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 1:36:42 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol The correct AFR for alcohol (ethanol) is around 8 to 1 versus gasoline at 14.7 to 1. Switching to 10% ethanol should equate to about a 5% richer mixture. Ethanol produces more power than gasoline ? hence alcohol race engines but much more fuel required. Your mileage will suffer. Best regards, Jim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 21 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 15:36:53 +0000 (UTC) From: Bob Spidell To: John Spaur Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Message-ID: <1823390093.104910346.1485531413259.JavaMail.zimbra at comcast.net> I believe the European octane ratings are Research Method only, which reads 3-5 points higher than US (R+M)/2. So, European 98 octane would be equivalent to US 93 octane (rare, but available in some areas in the States; 100-octane is available for boat engines around Havasu). Contrary to popular belief, ethanol can actually raise octane. There's a gas station in Los Altos that used to sell 95-octane, which was E10 IIRC. It's very difficult to raise the octane rating of pure gas--it requires special refining--that's why TEL was added starting around WWII for high-compression fighter engines (it was 'discovered' at the Sloan-Kettering institute, who tested several thousand compounds before settling on TEL). Adding ethanol to gasoline means the gas part doesn't have to be as carefully refined (hence 'cheaper'). There is an exhaustive research program being undertaken in order to develop an aviation fuel to replace 100LL--100-octane, 'low-lead,' which I believe is 'only' 2 grams/gallon of elemental lead vs. 3 grams/gallon of previous formulations--and it is proceeding very slowly due to its complexity. I've run tanks of E10 and tanks of pure gas, and didn't notice any significant variance in mileage, but it's usually an 'oranges-to-apples' comparison since most runs involve a mix of highway/freeway and grades, stop-and-go, etc. ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Spaur" To: josef-eckert at t-online.de, "Oudesluys" , "Forum' 'Healeys" Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 10:54:48 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Wish I could get 93 octane let alone 95 or 98! John San Jose, CA -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 22 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 15:43:12 +0000 (UTC) From: Bob Spidell To: Oudesluys Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Message-ID: <532867142.104914937.1485531792988.JavaMail.zimbra at comcast.net> OK, now I be confused. In the States, E10 is 10% ethanol, E85 is 85% ethanol, so E95 would be 95% ethanol. Is that correct? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Oudesluys" To: "healeys" Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 4:25:03 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Op 26-1-2017 om 23:59 schreef Oudesluys: > It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have > presumably used E85 for years Should of course be E95 Kees Oudesluijs -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 23 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 11:04:04 -0500 From: Wayne To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BJ-8 rear end housing Hello, My rear end housing is bent and I may need a replacement. I would be interested in a complete assembly or just the housing itself. I discovered the problem when I had difficulty removing the rear axles, and once they are out they bind on the hub studs preventing reassembly. I will pull the differential today and install the axles to see how bad the misalignment is. I am located in CT. Wayne ------------------------------ Message: 24 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 12:04:54 -0500 From: randyalkins To: Bob Spidell , Oudesluys Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Have not heard of 95. There is talk of e15 which will be bad for all. 10 was bad. And some warranties will be denied by engine maufacturers if it goes to 15 Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device-------- Original message --------From: Bob Spidell Date: 1/27/2017 10:43 AM (GMT-05:00) To: Oudesluys Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol OK, now I be confused.? In the States, E10 is 10% ethanol, E85 is 85% ethanol, so E95 would be 95% ethanol.? Is that correct? From: "Oudesluys" To: "healeys" Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 4:25:03 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Op 26-1-2017 om 23:59 schreef Oudesluys: > It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have > presumably used E85 for years Should of course be E95 Kees Oudesluijs -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 25 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 10:54:38 -0800 From: "David Nock" To: "Bob Spidell" , "Oudesluys" Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Check out this report/ road test of a comparison of E85 to Gas. https://www.edmunds.com/fuel-economy/e85-vs-gasoline-comparison-test.html Here at the shop we have been dealing with this problem for a long time with a lot of cars. And found the same problems with all of them, some worse than others. Overheating due the removal of the gas and addition of the Ethanol. The Ethanol burns hotter which reduces emissions. This causes older cars to run hotter. Lower gas mileage and lower performance Miss fires and Lack of power due to the leaner mixture. The is especially worse on a Tri Carb Healey, the rear carb will lean out on a long hard run at a steady hight rpm. Also Ethanol has a very strong cleaning ability, So if you start using Ethanol in a older gas tank or a tank that has been sitting for while that has a lot of varnish build up. The Ethanol will go about its cleaning ability and clean up all that varnish in the tank and deposit it in the carburettors. I know that there are lots of those out there that have all the techy stuff. But I go by what I have learned by over 40 year of working on all British cars and lots of them. The bottom line with 10 % Ethanol your Vintage car will run hotter, get worse fuel economy and may experience miss fires under heavy acceleration. David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 209 948 8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: Bob Spidell Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 7:43 AM To: Oudesluys Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol OK, now I be confused. In the States, E10 is 10% ethanol, E85 is 85% ethanol, so E95 would be 95% ethanol. Is that correct? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Oudesluys" To: "healeys" Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 4:25:03 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Op 26-1-2017 om 23:59 schreef Oudesluys: > It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have > presumably used E85 for years Should of course be E95 Kees Oudesluijs -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ Healeys mailing list Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys ------------------------------ End of Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 33 *************************************** -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Jan 27 20:42:52 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 19:42:52 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 soft brake pedal References: could be a leaking booster check valve. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Fri, Jan 27, 2017 at 3:07 PM, John and Judy Carter wrote: > After bleeding brakes and car sits for a time the brake pedal is soft > again. You can pump it up to a firm pedal but it is soft again at the next > application. This occurs whether you are driving the car or not > > (brake booster is fairly new). I cannot find any leaks and the reservoir > stays full(silicone fluid). > > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys on behalf of > healeys-request at autox.team.net > *Sent:* Friday, January 27, 2017 2:00 PM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 33 > > Send Healeys mailing list submissions to > healeys at autox.team.net > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net > > autox.team.net > To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys > Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send > email ... > > > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > healeys-request at autox.team.net > > You can reach the person managing the list at > healeys-owner at autox.team.net > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: Ethanol (i erbs) > 2. Re: Ethanol (Michael Salter) > 3. Re: Ethanol (Richard J. Hockert) > 4. Re: Ethanol (Oudesluys) > 5. Re: Non Healey: Anyone looking for a project MG TD? > (Charlie Baldwin) > 6. DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? (Jim Lyons) > 7. Re: Ethanol (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) > 8. Re: Ethanol (Mirek Sharp) > 9. Re: DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? (Jean Caron) > 10. Re: Ethanol (Richard Collins) > 11. Re: Ethanol (josef-eckert at t-online.de) > 12. Re: Ethanol (John Spaur) > 13. Re: Ethanol (josef-eckert at t-online.de) > 14. Re: DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? (Derek Job) > 15. Re: Ethanol (Oudesluys) > 16. Re: Ethanol (Oudesluys) > 17. Re: Ethanol (Bob Haskell) > 18. Re: DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? (i erbs) > 19. Re: Ethanol (Bob Spidell) > 20. Re: Ethanol (Bob Spidell) > 21. Re: Ethanol (Bob Spidell) > 22. Re: Ethanol (Bob Spidell) > 23. BJ-8 rear end housing (Wayne) > 24. Re: Ethanol (randyalkins) > 25. Re: Ethanol (David Nock) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 11:06:15 -0800 > From: i erbs > To: Simon Lachlan > Cc: Healey List > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > Message-ID: > gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > eats rubber parts: hoses, carb diaphragms, and fuel pump innards. Replace > all fuel line hoses with ethanol tolerant hoses. > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > On Thu, Jan 26, 2017 at 9:03 AM, Simon Lachlan < > simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk > > wrote: > > > It seems that the UK is to be blessed with this stuff. I?ve been asked > for > > my thoughts on the topic and, as I know nothing about it, I?m looking for > > advice. > > > > See attached. > > > > What are your experiences? And what are the ?dos and don?ts?? > > > > Thanks, > > > > Simon > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > www.team.net > www.team.net > The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time > volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network > connection, name ... > > > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Mail Archives - Team.Net > www.team.net > Team.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest > updated. > > > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net > > autox.team.net > To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys > Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send > email ... > > > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170126/5d456206/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 15:20:56 -0500 > From: Michael Salter > To: Randy Alkins , "healeys at autox.team.net" > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > Message-ID: > gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > *I doubt many if any cars in UK are E85 compliant. All fuel lines made > prior to 1995 in US were NOT ethanol ready and will fall apart readily.*Hi > Randy, > Your note has raised a very interesting question. > Have you had any experience with original Petroflex hoses failing due to > ethanol? > We have been subjected to ethanol for many years now and I cannot recall > even one incidence of a Petroflex failure that I could attribute to it. > My own 100 has an original > ? NOS? > Smiths Petroflex hose joining the main fuel line to the carb fuel pipe and > although it has only been on the road for 2 years since restoration I have > not seen any signs of failure and the hose is still very flexible. > ?I do know that if you subject a Petroflex hose to "Varsol" ?cleaning fluid > it deteriorates rapidly and that should definitely be avoided at all costs. > Would appreciate your thoughts. > > Michael S > > > > > > *?* > ? > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170126/91437072/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 3 > Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 15:36:42 -0600 > From: "Richard J. Hockert" > To: "'David Nock BCS'" , "'Simon Lachlan'" > , "'Healey List'" > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > Message-ID: <067501d2781c$4a0d2ac0$de278040$@att.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > The correct AFR for alcohol (ethanol) is around 8 to 1 versus gasoline at > 14.7 to 1. Switching to 10% ethanol should equate to about a 5% richer > mixture. Ethanol produces more power than gasoline ? hence alcohol race > engines but much more fuel required. Your mileage will suffer. > > > > Best regards, > > Jim > > > > > > > > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > ] On Behalf Of David Nock BCS > Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 12:49 PM > To: Simon Lachlan; 'Healey List' > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > > > > The issues with the Ethanol will depend on the percentage of Ethanol they > will be putting in. Here in California most of the Ethanol is 10%. However > they are talking about raising that and if they do we will start having > real problems. > > The most common issues we run into are . Overheating and miss fires under > heavy load due to lean mixtures. Especially worse on the Tri Carb. > > This can usually be cured by installing the Rich needles. > > > > The other issues are lack of power and lower gas mileage. > > > > > > David Nock > British Car Specialists > 209-948-8767 <(209)%20948-8767> > www.britishcarspecialists.com > > > > > > > Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 9:03 AM > > > > Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol > > > > It seems that the UK is to be blessed with this stuff. I?ve been asked for > my thoughts on the topic and, as I know nothing about it, I?m looking for > advice. > > See attached. > > What are your experiences? And what are the ?dos and don?ts?? > > Thanks, > > Simon > > _____ > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170126/c1c43d2c/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 4 > Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 23:59:22 +0100 > From: Oudesluys > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"; Format="flowed" > > It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have presumably > used E85 for years. This usually contains about 5% ethanol, sometimes > considerably more. So you have already changed most if not all rubber > parts with modern items that are ethanol resistant. If you still have > original rubber parts e.g. hoses, replace them. It is unbelievable that > some people still have original fuel hoses, brake hoses etc. fitted. > They should have been replaced a very long time ago. Very risky. > There are claims it can corrode aluminium alloy parts in the carbs and > fuel pump, but I still have to see proper physical evidence of this. > Pumps and carbs that have been exposed to ethanol containing petrol for > donkeys years are mostly still absolutely clean. If the petrol is > contaminated with water or if the carbs/pumps have been dry for years > you may see some sediment or corrosion, but this is rare. > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > Op 26-1-2017 om 20:06 schreef i erbs: > > eats rubber parts: hoses, carb diaphragms, and fuel pump innards. > > Replace all fuel line hoses with ethanol tolerant hoses. > > > > Ira Erbs > > Portland,OR > > _______ _______ > > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > > (_________________________) > > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > > > On Thu, Jan 26, 2017 at 9:03 AM, Simon Lachlan > >> > > wrote: > > > > It seems that the UK is to be blessed with this stuff. I?ve been > > asked for my thoughts on the topic and, as I know nothing about > > it, I?m looking for advice. > > > > See attached. > > > > What are your experiences? And what are the ?dos and don?ts?? > > > > Thanks, > > > > Simon > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170126/216a2c1a/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 5 > Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 20:03:33 -0500 > From: Charlie Baldwin > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Non Healey: Anyone looking for a project MG TD? > Message-ID: <00a3b404-696a-0669-5c5e-ac344f7d32a0 at comcast.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"; Format="flowed" > > Way too much money. It would be a worthwhile investment at half that. > > > On 1/26/2017 1:12 PM, mike brouillette wrote: > > > > Just saw this on Ebay. If anyone is looking for a 1950 MG TD project, > > this could be a good start with a buy it now at $7500. > > > > No interest? > > > > http://www.ebay.com/itm/272532817015? > > > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > ] *On Behalf Of > > *i erbs > > *Sent:* Thursday, January 26, 2017 12:54 PM > > *To:* Ahealey help > > *Subject:* [Healeys] Home built GTO Tribute > > > > https://youtu.be/hzNQUPR73Hw > > > > Guy built himself a fararri GTO... Hard to imagine what the bits he > > had to buy cost > > > > Ira Erbs > > > > Portland,OR > > > > _______ _______ > > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > > (_________________________) > > > > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > > > > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170126/ffcbd0eb/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 6 > Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 20:23:27 -0500 > From: "Jim Lyons" > To: > Subject: [Healeys] DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? > Message-ID: <991F0077598D4A26A05A4684E2A4391D at LyonsAsusS550C> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Hello All, > I am looking to replace or repair the DASH TOP on my 1966 BJ8. I?m looking > for recommendations for vendors who can supply the material that is > closest to the original vinyl ?leathercloth?. > I see that MOSS does offer a DASH TOP, PADDED, BLACK ( pt # 633-850 ) for > $203. Does anyone sell a kit with just the material ? > > Thanks, > Jim > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170126/6470153a/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 7 > Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 17:43:41 -0800 > From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=" > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > Message-ID: <20170127014342.1102.qmail at hoster902.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > > IMO: > Ethanol is a boondoggle for farmers. It takes more energy to produce than > it saves. > > -- > Steve Gerow > Altadena, CA > BN6 > Maker of most complete Big Healey rear disc kit > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 8 > Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 21:10:29 -0500 > From: "Mirek Sharp" > To: "'Simon Lachlan'" , "'Healey List'" > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > Message-ID: <008301d27842$88539780$98fac680$@sympatico.ca> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Simon, we have been subjected to ethanol for some years here in Canada and > confess I did absolutely nothing to my '59 BT7 to adjust to it. I rebuilt > the carbs 3 years ago, but prior to that, they had whatever parts I fitted > when I previously serviced them, probably 15-20 years ago. I don't thrash > the car, and driving normally I noticed no difference in power, and since > it > is not my regular driver for work etc., I have never bothered much about > fuel consumption (would it influence how much drive it?- No!). I can't > even recall when I last serviced the fuel pump, it must be at least 25 -30 > years ago, perhaps not since I put a new one in around 1975, just after I > bought the car. I expect it would affect timing but I always fine-adjust > this with the Vernier on the distributor after static setting per usual > practice and I get no pinging. Being in Canada, the car is not driven > during the salt season from around late November to late March(-ish). I > don't top up or drain the tank, or add any fuel stabilizers, and it starts > up and runs just fine in the spring (except for needing a boost some > years). > > > > My advice is just drive it, and if something breaks, THEN fix it. > > > > To be clear, I not saying the ethanol has no effect, it plays havoc with > the > carburation on my vintage motorcycles, which are air-cooled and much less > forgiving when burn-rate and combustion temperature are changed with the > ethanol. I just think the Healeys, the 3000s at least, can cope with the > changes more easily. The only other big effect I noticed is that it is > attacking the lining I put in one of my BSA fuel tanks, and I will have to > clean that out soon before completely breaks down (the solvent is > methyl-ethyl ketone - I can't wait!). > > Good luck with it, > > Mirek > > > > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > ] On Behalf Of Simon > Lachlan > Sent: January-26-17 12:04 PM > To: 'Healey List' > Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol > > > > It seems that the UK is to be blessed with this stuff. I've been asked for > my thoughts on the topic and, as I know nothing about it, I'm looking for > advice. > > See attached. > > What are your experiences? And what are the "dos and don'ts"? > > Thanks, > > Simon > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170126/ef4e8b21/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 9 > Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 04:12:33 +0000 > From: Jean Caron > To: Jim Lyons , "Healeys at autox.team.net" > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? > Message-ID: > namprd19.prod.outlook.com> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > > Jim, > > John Skinner in the UK sells it, good to deal with , reasonably priced. I > am sure there are others too in the US. > > www.john.skinner.co.uk > > > Jean > > ________________________________ > From: Healeys on behalf of Jim Lyons < > jlyons4 at rochester.rr.com> > Sent: January 27, 2017 1:23 AM > To: Healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? > > Hello All, > I am looking to replace or repair the DASH TOP on my 1966 BJ8. I'm looking > for recommendations for vendors who can supply the material that is > closest to the original vinyl "leathercloth". > I see that MOSS does offer a DASH TOP, PADDED, BLACK ( pt # 633-850 ) for > $203. Does anyone sell a kit with just the material ? > > Thanks, > Jim > > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170127/47adbd90/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 10 > Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 05:06:02 +0000 > From: Richard Collins > To: "Steve B. Gerow" > Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > Message-ID: > namprd19.prod.outlook.com> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > I get a solid 12% LESS miles on Calif 91 octane (highest available) than I > do here in KY with 93 octane (highest available) But I am seeing more 10% > Ethanol fuel in KY than in previous years. But we have many ethanol free > offerings in the area. > Had to change fuel line on Healey recently when it began leaking from > splits/disintegration. I smelled it before I found it. Nearly a fire risk. > > Regards, > Richard Of KY > BN7 #440 > > > > On Jan 26, 2017, at 9:26 PM, Steve B. Gerow > wrote: > > > > IMO: > > Ethanol is a boondoggle for farmers. It takes more energy to produce > than it saves. > > > > -- > > Steve Gerow > > Altadena, CA > > BN6 > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 11 > Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 07:07:02 +0100 (MET) > From: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" > To: Oudesluys , "Healeys, Forum" > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > Message-ID: > <1485497222007.6248468.9f7d93919ffb3ba7849f922f045ff0 > 6a5fb1a9ee at spica.telekom.de> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Here in Europe most Austin-Healeys (95%+) were completely restored with > new > parts, lines, hoses, fitted. I only know one or two cars out of 100 which > only got a tidying up since they were built. So extremely rare. > I have many friends who use E10 (95 Octane) in their classic cars without > any problems. My Austin-Healeys need 98+ Octane, so I stay with the > premium > fuels from Shell (V-Power (101 Octane), or ARAL Ultimate (103 Octane). > These premium fuels, or the Super Plus (98 Octane) contain below 5% > Ethanol. So I haven?t faced any problems. > I would have some problems using E10 (95 Octane), as it would cause > after-run of the engines, which are eliminated with higher octane fuels. > > Josef Eckert > K?nigswinter/Germany > > > > > -----Original-Nachricht----- > Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > Datum: 2017-01-27T02:15:07+0100 > Von: "Oudesluys" > An: "healeys at autox.team.net" > > > > It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have presumably > used E85 for years. This usually contains about 5% ethanol, sometimes > considerably more. So you have already changed most if not all rubber > parts > with modern items that are ethanol resistant. If you still have original > rubber parts e.g. hoses, replace them. It is unbelievable that some people > still have original fuel hoses, brake hoses etc. fitted. They should have > been replaced a very long time ago. Very risky. > There are claims it can corrode aluminium alloy parts in the carbs and > fuel > pump, but I still have to see proper physical evidence of this. Pumps and > carbs that have been exposed to ethanol containing petrol for donkeys > years > are mostly still absolutely clean. If the petrol is contaminated with > water > or if the carbs/pumps have been dry for years you may see some sediment or > corrosion, but this is rare. > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > Op 26-1-2017 om 20:06 schreef i erbs: > > eats rubber parts: hoses, carb diaphragms, and fuel pump innards. > Replace all fuel line hoses with ethanol tolerant hoses. > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > On Thu, Jan 26, 2017 at 9:03 AM, Simon Lachlan < > > > > wrote: > > It seems that the UK is to be blessed with this stuff. I?ve been > asked for my thoughts on the topic and, as I know nothing about it, > I?m looking for advice. > > See attached. > > What are your experiences? And what are the ?dos and don?ts?? > > Thanks, > > Simon > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net > http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > > ? > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170127/5f4f1be9/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 12 > Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 22:54:48 -0800 > From: "John Spaur" > To: , "'Oudesluys'" , > "'Healeys, Forum'" > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > Message-ID: <000501d2786a$4174dd10$c45e9730$@sbcglobal.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Wish I could get 93 octane let alone 95 or 98! > > > > John > > San Jose, CA > > > > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > ] On Behalf Of josef-eckert at t-online.de > Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 10:07 PM > To: Oudesluys ; Healeys, Forum < > Healeys at autox.team.net> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > > > > ?I have many friends who use E10 (95 Octane) in their classic cars without > any problems. My Austin-Healeys need 98+ Octane,? > > Josef Eckert > > K?nigswinter/Germany > > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170126/1fbfb00d/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 13 > Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 07:59:51 +0100 (MET) > From: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" > To: John Spaur , "Healeys, Forum" > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > Message-ID: > <1485500391228.6130407.3568cfdf787e44368a8b41d97a311d > 79d249f1fa at spica.telekom.de> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > John, > as far as I know 95 grade "European Octane" is comparable with 91 grade > "American Octane". Don?t know the reason for that, as I never went into it > further. I.E. Afgas for plane engines is about 103 Octane Europe. > > Josef Eckert > K?nigswinter/Germany > > > > -----Original-Nachricht----- > Betreff: RE: [Healeys] Ethanol > Datum: 2017-01-27T07:54:53+0100 > Von: "John Spaur" > An: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" , "'Oudesluys'" > , "'Healeys, Forum'" > > > > > Wish I could get 93 octane let alone 95 or 98! > > > > John > > San Jose, CA > > > > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > ] On Behalf Of > josef-eckert at t-online.de > Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 10:07 PM > To: Oudesluys ; Healeys, Forum > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > > > > ?I have many friends who use E10 (95 Octane) in their classic cars without > any problems. My Austin-Healeys need 98+ Octane,? > Josef Eckert > K?nigswinter/Germany > > > > ? > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170127/56b1edd3/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 14 > Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 07:58:38 +0000 > From: Derek Job > To: Jim Lyons > Cc: Forum > Subject: Re: [Healeys] DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? > Message-ID: > i6JMseY8eYbQ at mail.gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > AH Spares sell the leather cloth by the metre. > > Derek > > On Fri, Jan 27, 2017 at 1:23 AM, Jim Lyons > wrote: > > > Hello All, > > I am looking to replace or repair the DASH TOP on my 1966 BJ8. I?m > looking > > for recommendations for vendors who can supply the material that is > > closest to the original vinyl ?leathercloth?. > > I see that MOSS does offer a DASH TOP, PADDED, BLACK ( pt # 633-850 ) for > > $203. Does anyone sell a kit with just the material ? > > > > Thanks, > > Jim > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > > options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170127/8081e3bc/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 15 > Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 10:44:27 +0100 > From: Oudesluys > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > Message-ID: <215cd39a-46ab-cd17-b90c-9c5dd1c15eb7 at chello.nl> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed" > > In Europe there was often a substantial amount of ethanol in post war > petrol wel into the '60's. Petrol was not of the best quality and > ethanol was used as an octane booster. Not many problems at the time. > Kees Oudesluijs > > Op 26-1-2017 om 21:20 schreef Michael Salter: > > /I doubt many if any cars in UK are E85 compliant. All fuel lines > > made prior to 1995 in US were NOT ethanol ready and will fall apart > > readily. > > > > /Hi Randy, > > Your note has raised a very interesting question. > > Have you had any experience with original Petroflex hoses failing due > > to ethanol? > > We have been subjected to ethanol for many years now and I cannot > > recall even one incidence of a Petroflex failure that I could > > attribute to it. > > My own 100 has an original > > ? NOS? > > Smiths Petroflex hose joining the main fuel line to the carb fuel pipe > > and although it has only been on the road for 2 years since > > restoration I have not seen any signs of failure and the hose is still > > very flexible. > > ?I do know that if you subject a Petroflex hose to "Varsol" ?cleaning > > fluid it deteriorates rapidly and that should definitely be avoided at > > all costs. > > Would appreciate your thoughts. > > > > Michael S > > > > > > > > > > > > /?/ > > ? > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170127/1370aa43/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 16 > Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 13:25:03 +0100 > From: Oudesluys > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > Message-ID: <1b7feb54-9c7f-8d7e-03d8-7d628186c316 at chello.nl> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed > > Op 26-1-2017 om 23:59 schreef Oudesluys: > > It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have > > presumably used E85 for years > > Should of course be E95 > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 17 > Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 08:33:12 -0500 > From: Bob Haskell > To: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" , John Spaur > , "Healeys, Forum" > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > Message-ID: <588B4C18.8090907 at earthlink.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed > > John and Josef, > > There are two methods for measuring octane rating - motoring and > research. The average of the two is used in the US. The higher > research octane number is used in Europe. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > > On 01/27/2017 01:59 AM, josef-eckert at t-online.de wrote: > > John, > > > > as far as I know 95 grade "European Octane" is comparable with 91 grade > > "American Octane". Don?t know the reason for that, as I never went into > > it further. I.E. Afgas for plane engines is about 103 Octane Europe. > > > > Josef Eckert > > > > K?nigswinter/Germany > > > > -----Original-Nachricht----- > > > > Betreff: RE: [Healeys] Ethanol > > > > Datum: 2017-01-27T07:54:53+0100 > > > > Von: "John Spaur" > > > > An: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" , "'Oudesluys'" > > , "'Healeys, Forum'" > > > > Wish I could get 93 octane let alone 95 or 98! > > > > John > > > > San Jose, CA > > > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > ] *On Behalf Of > > *josef-eckert at t-online.de > > *Sent:* Thursday, January 26, 2017 10:07 PM > > *To:* Oudesluys ; Healeys, Forum > > > > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > > > > ?I have many friends who use E10 (95 Octane) in their classic cars > > without any problems. My Austin-Healeys need 98+ Octane,? > > > > Josef Eckert > > > > K?nigswinter/Germany > > > > ? > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 18 > Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 06:05:03 -0800 > From: i erbs > To: Jim Lyons > Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? > Message-ID: > taMZGTL4goQ at mail.gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Mods sells material by the yard > > Ira Erbs > 1959 100-6 > MKI engine and disc brakes > Portland,OR > > On Jan 26, 2017 6:52 PM, "Jim Lyons" wrote: > > > Hello All, > > I am looking to replace or repair the DASH TOP on my 1966 BJ8. I?m > looking > > for recommendations for vendors who can supply the material that is > > closest to the original vinyl ?leathercloth?. > > I see that MOSS does offer a DASH TOP, PADDED, BLACK ( pt # 633-850 ) for > > $203. Does anyone sell a kit with just the material ? > > > > Thanks, > > Jim > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170127/2567b9af/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 19 > Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 14:14:30 +0000 (UTC) > From: Bob Spidell > To: Michael Salter > Cc: healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > Message-ID: > <1341990277.104838709.1485526470549.JavaMail.zimbra at comcast.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > My BJ8 has had a Petroflex line in it for 100K+ miles and 25+ years and > hasn't had a problem. It does feel a little stiff and since I'm doing an > overhaul I've bought a replacement (watch it crap out in 3 months ;). > > Bob > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Michael Salter" > To: "Randy Alkins" , "healeys" < > healeys at autox.team.net> > Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 12:20:56 PM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > > I doubt many if any cars in UK are E85 compliant. All fuel lines made > prior to 1995 in US were NOT ethanol ready and will fall apart readily. > > Hi Randy, > Your note has raised a very interesting question. > Have you had any experience with original Petroflex hoses failing due to > ethanol? > We have been subjected to ethanol for many years now and I cannot recall > even one incidence of a Petroflex failure that I could attribute to it. > My own 100 has an original > ? NOS? > Smiths Petroflex hose joining the main fuel line to the carb fuel pipe and > although it has only been on the road for 2 years since restoration I have > not seen any signs of failure and the hose is still very flexible. > ?I do know that if you subject a Petroflex hose to "Varsol" ?cleaning > fluid it deteriorates rapidly and that should definitely be avoided at all > costs. > Would appreciate your thoughts. > > Michael S > > > > > > ? > ? > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170127/b75101f1/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 20 > Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 14:20:02 +0000 (UTC) > From: Bob Spidell > To: "Richard J. Hockert" > Cc: healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > Message-ID: > <528184118.104844061.1485526802079.JavaMail.zimbra at comcast.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Ethanol has a much lower energy content than gasoline, hence the lower > mileage with gasahol. See here: > > http://www.afdc.energy.gov/fuels/fuel_comparison_chart.pdf > > ('alternate fuels,' not 'alternate facts') > > It does, however, have a higher octane rating allowing the huge > compression ratios in dragsters and other racers; which is what produces > the massive power in those engines. > > Bob > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Richard J. Hockert" > To: "David Nock BCS" , "Simon Lachlan" < > simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk>, "Healey List" > Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 1:36:42 PM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > > > > The correct AFR for alcohol (ethanol) is around 8 to 1 versus gasoline at > 14.7 to 1. Switching to 10% ethanol should equate to about a 5% richer > mixture. Ethanol produces more power than gasoline ? hence alcohol race > engines but much more fuel required. Your mileage will suffer. > > > > Best regards, > > Jim > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170127/a50e74f5/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 21 > Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 15:36:53 +0000 (UTC) > From: Bob Spidell > To: John Spaur > Cc: healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > Message-ID: > <1823390093.104910346.1485531413259.JavaMail.zimbra at comcast.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > I believe the European octane ratings are Research Method only, which > reads 3-5 points higher than US (R+M)/2. So, European 98 octane would be > equivalent to US 93 octane (rare, but available in some areas in the > States; 100-octane is available for boat engines around Havasu). > > Contrary to popular belief, ethanol can actually raise octane. There's a > gas station in Los Altos that used to sell 95-octane, which was E10 IIRC. > It's very difficult to raise the octane rating of pure gas--it requires > special refining--that's why TEL was added starting around WWII for > high-compression fighter engines (it was 'discovered' at the > Sloan-Kettering institute, who tested several thousand compounds before > settling on TEL). Adding ethanol to gasoline means the gas part doesn't > have to be as carefully refined (hence 'cheaper'). There is an exhaustive > research program being undertaken in order to develop an aviation fuel to > replace 100LL--100-octane, 'low-lead,' which I believe is 'only' 2 > grams/gallon of elemental lead vs. 3 grams/gallon of previous > formulations--and it is proceeding very slowly due to its complexity. > > I've run tanks of E10 and tanks of pure gas, and didn't notice any > significant variance in mileage, but it's usually an 'oranges-to-apples' > comparison since most runs involve a mix of highway/freeway and grades, > stop-and-go, etc. > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "John Spaur" > To: josef-eckert at t-online.de, "Oudesluys" , > "Forum' 'Healeys" > Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 10:54:48 PM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > > > > Wish I could get 93 octane let alone 95 or 98! > > > > John > > San Jose, CA > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170127/3ec75ee9/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 22 > Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 15:43:12 +0000 (UTC) > From: Bob Spidell > To: Oudesluys > Cc: healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > Message-ID: > <532867142.104914937.1485531792988.JavaMail.zimbra at comcast.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > OK, now I be confused. In the States, E10 is 10% ethanol, E85 is 85% > ethanol, so E95 would be 95% ethanol. Is that correct? > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Oudesluys" > To: "healeys" > Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 4:25:03 AM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > > Op 26-1-2017 om 23:59 schreef Oudesluys: > > It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have > > presumably used E85 for years > > Should of course be E95 > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170127/7911e009/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 23 > Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 11:04:04 -0500 > From: Wayne > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] BJ-8 rear end housing > Message-ID: <1dff32ad-33b5-ae3f-0ac8-7d6b58b55f27 at gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed > > Hello, > > My rear end housing is bent and I may need a replacement. I > would be interested in a complete assembly or just the housing itself. I > discovered the problem when I had difficulty removing the rear axles, > and once they are out they bind on the hub studs preventing reassembly. > I will pull the differential today and install the axles to see how bad > the misalignment is. I am located in CT. > > Wayne > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 24 > Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 12:04:54 -0500 > From: randyalkins > To: Bob Spidell , Oudesluys > > Cc: healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Have not heard of 95. There is talk of e15 which will be bad for all. 10 > was bad. And some warranties will be denied by engine maufacturers if it > goes to 15 > > > Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device-------- Original message --------From: > Bob Spidell Date: 1/27/2017 10:43 AM (GMT-05:00) > To: Oudesluys Cc: healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > OK, now I be confused.? In the States, E10 is 10% ethanol, E85 is 85% > ethanol, so E95 would be 95% ethanol.? Is that correct? > > From: "Oudesluys" > To: "healeys" > Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 4:25:03 AM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > > Op 26-1-2017 om 23:59 schreef Oudesluys: > > It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have > > presumably used E85 for years > > Should of course be E95 > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170127/c867a14d/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 25 > Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 10:54:38 -0800 > From: "David Nock" > To: "Bob Spidell" , "Oudesluys" > > Cc: healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > Message-ID: <70614CB856D04F639DA2776C946F5E6A at DavidNockHP> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Check out this report/ road test of a comparison of E85 to Gas. > > https://www.edmunds.com/fuel-economy/e85-vs-gasoline-comparison-test.html > > Here at the shop we have been dealing with this problem for a long time > with a lot of cars. And found the same problems with all of them, some > worse than others. > > Overheating due the removal of the gas and addition of the Ethanol. The > Ethanol burns hotter which reduces emissions. This causes older cars to run > hotter. > > Lower gas mileage and lower performance > > Miss fires and Lack of power due to the leaner mixture. The is especially > worse on a Tri Carb Healey, the rear carb will lean out on a long hard run > at a steady hight rpm. > > Also Ethanol has a very strong cleaning ability, So if you start using > Ethanol in a older gas tank or a tank that has been sitting for while that > has a lot of varnish build up. The Ethanol will go about its cleaning > ability and clean up all that varnish in the tank and deposit it in the > carburettors. > > I know that there are lots of those out there that have all the techy > stuff. But I go by what I have learned by over 40 year of working on all > British cars and lots of them. > > The bottom line with 10 % Ethanol your Vintage car will run hotter, get > worse fuel economy and may experience miss fires under heavy acceleration. > > > David Nock > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > 209 948 8767 <(209)%20948-8767> > www.britishcarspecialists.com > > From: Bob Spidell > Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 7:43 AM > To: Oudesluys > Cc: healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > > OK, now I be confused. In the States, E10 is 10% ethanol, E85 is 85% > ethanol, so E95 would be 95% ethanol. Is that correct? > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------ > -------------------- > > From: "Oudesluys" > To: "healeys" > Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 4:25:03 AM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > > > Op 26-1-2017 om 23:59 schreef Oudesluys: > > It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have > > presumably used E85 for years > > > Should of course be E95 > > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------ > -------------------- > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170127/83ff6ccb/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Subject: Digest Footer > > _______________________________________________ > Healeys mailing list > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > ------------------------------ > > End of Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 33 > *************************************** > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Fri Jan 27 20:47:50 2017 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 19:47:50 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?octane?= there are stations here in vegas that sell E85, which multi-fuel vehicles can use. i was told it is 15percent ethanol/85 gasoline. From cnaarndt at gmail.com Fri Jan 27 21:31:43 2017 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 20:31:43 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Correct Jack for a 54 BN1 References: Simon, There is a great Supplement in the Concours Guidelines that deals specifically with AH tool kits and all of the jacks for the 100s (there were four of them). Shameless Concours Guidelines plug! The new 2017 version just came out. The most common jack used in mid to late '54 was the *Shelley model LJ 23* dated *54* or 55. This is the jack in my Jan '55 BN1. I know of cars from around body no. 4000 (May-Jun 54) on that had this as their original jack. This jack was used through about Jul. '55 and was superseded by the King Dick B 1077 and then the Shelley LJ 21 jacks in '55 onward. Sorry, but I could not attach any photos. Cheers, Curt Arndt Chairman-Austin Healey Concours Registry On Fri, Jan 27, 2017 at 11:21 AM, Simon Griffin wrote: > For my MG TD I have a nice Shelley 6DL jack and set of handles. This > Jack looks very much like the King Dick Jack. What I am not sure about is > what is the correct Jack for the 100 in late 54? Was it a Shelley or a > King Dick or were they both used? > > > For the TD it could be either in 53 (mine was built July 53) and it would > have had a set of handles split in half that were turned with a 9 1/2 " > tommy bar. I have also seen handles with a larger hole and a wooden > handle to turn. Can anyone confirm what is correct for the 100? > > > Thanks > > Simon > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0304.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 114058 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0310.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 112008 bytes Desc: not available URL: From cnaarndt at gmail.com Fri Jan 27 21:32:18 2017 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 20:32:18 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Correct Jack for a 54 BN1 References: Simon, There is a great Supplement in the Concours Guidelines that deals specifically with AH tool kits and all of the jacks for the 100s (there were four of them). Shameless Concours Guidelines plug! The new 2017 version just came out. The most common jack used in mid to late '54 was the *Shelley model LJ 23* dated *54* or 55. This is the jack in my Jan '55 BN1. I know of cars from around body no. 4000 (May-Jun 54) on that had this as their original jack. This jack was used through about Jul. '55 and was superseded by the King Dick B 1077 and then the Shelley LJ 21 jacks in '55 onward. Cheers, Curt Arndt Chairman-Austin Healey Concours Registry [image: Inline image 1] On Fri, Jan 27, 2017 at 11:21 AM, Simon Griffin wrote: > For my MG TD I have a nice Shelley 6DL jack and set of handles. This > Jack looks very much like the King Dick Jack. What I am not sure about is > what is the correct Jack for the 100 in late 54? Was it a Shelley or a > King Dick or were they both used? > > > For the TD it could be either in 53 (mine was built July 53) and it would > have had a set of handles split in half that were turned with a 9 1/2 " > tommy bar. I have also seen handles with a larger hole and a wooden > handle to turn. Can anyone confirm what is correct for the 100? > > > Thanks > > Simon > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 1662857 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0304.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 114058 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0310.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 112008 bytes Desc: not available URL: From richard.ewald at gmail.com Fri Jan 27 21:52:11 2017 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 20:52:11 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] anyone looking for a project car? References: I am tempted to ask them just what kind of drugs they were using when they came up with 4K as a price point. I wonder if they meant $40.00 and misplaced the decimal. Rick On Fri, Jan 27, 2017 at 6:57 PM, i erbs wrote: > http://tinyurl.com/hm9y222 > Looks to me like you would be paying $4K for a vin #, but some people like > a challenge > > > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cnaarndt at gmail.com Fri Jan 27 21:58:14 2017 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 20:58:14 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] anyone looking for a project car? References: I guess we just found Larry Varley's next restoration project ;-^) On Fri, Jan 27, 2017 at 6:57 PM, i erbs wrote: > http://tinyurl.com/hm9y222 > Looks to me like you would be paying $4K for a vin #, but some people like > a challenge > > > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Fri Jan 27 22:35:45 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sat, 28 Jan 2017 05:35:45 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 soft brake pedal References: What's with the brakes when the pedal is very hard and the brake shoes have very little pressure against the drums?Mike MacLean On Friday, January 27, 2017 6:47 PM, John and Judy Carter wrote: After bleeding brakes and car sits for a time the brake pedal is soft again. You can pump it up to a firm pedal but it is soft again at the next application. This occurs whether you are driving the car or not(brake booster is fairly new). I cannot find any leaks and the reservoir stays full(silicone fluid). From: Healeys on behalf of healeys-request at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 2:00 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 33?Send Healeys mailing list submissions to ??????? healeys at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit ??????? http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys | Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Netautox.team.netTo see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... | or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to ??????? healeys-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at ??????? healeys-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." Today's Topics: ?? 1. Re: Ethanol (i erbs) ?? 2. Re: Ethanol (Michael Salter) ?? 3. Re: Ethanol (Richard J. Hockert) ?? 4. Re: Ethanol (Oudesluys) ?? 5. Re: Non Healey: Anyone looking for a project MG TD? ????? (Charlie Baldwin) ?? 6. DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? (Jim Lyons) ?? 7. Re: Ethanol (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) ?? 8. Re: Ethanol (Mirek Sharp) ?? 9. Re: DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? (Jean Caron) ? 10. Re: Ethanol (Richard Collins) ? 11. Re: Ethanol (josef-eckert at t-online.de) ? 12. Re: Ethanol (John Spaur) ? 13. Re: Ethanol (josef-eckert at t-online.de) ? 14. Re: DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? (Derek Job) ? 15. Re: Ethanol (Oudesluys) ? 16. Re: Ethanol (Oudesluys) ? 17. Re: Ethanol (Bob Haskell) ? 18. Re: DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? (i erbs) ? 19. Re: Ethanol (Bob Spidell) ? 20. Re: Ethanol (Bob Spidell) ? 21. Re: Ethanol (Bob Spidell) ? 22. Re: Ethanol (Bob Spidell) ? 23. BJ-8 rear end housing (Wayne) ? 24. Re: Ethanol (randyalkins) ? 25. Re: Ethanol (David Nock) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 11:06:15 -0800 From: i erbs To: Simon Lachlan Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Message-ID: ??????? eats rubber parts: hoses, carb diaphragms, and fuel pump innards. Replace all fuel line hoses with ethanol tolerant hoses. Ira Erbs Portland,OR ????? _______????????????????????????????????? _______ ???? (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) ???????? (_________________________) ????????? BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Thu, Jan 26, 2017 at 9:03 AM, Simon Lachlan wrote: > It seems that the UK is to be blessed with this stuff. I?ve been asked for > my thoughts on the topic and, as I know nothing about it, I?m looking for > advice. > > See attached. > > What are your experiences? And what are the ?dos and don?ts?? > > Thanks, > > Simon > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html | www.team.netwww.team.netThe Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... | > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive | Mail Archives - Team.Netwww.team.netTeam.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest updated. | > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys | Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Netautox.team.netTo see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... | > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 15:20:56 -0500 From: Michael Salter To: Randy Alkins ,? "healeys at autox.team.net" ??????? Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Message-ID: ??????? *I doubt many if any cars in UK are E85 compliant.? All fuel lines made prior to 1995 in US were NOT ethanol ready and will fall apart readily.*Hi Randy, Your note has raised a very interesting question. Have you had any experience with original Petroflex hoses failing due to ethanol? We have been subjected to ethanol for many years now and I cannot recall even one incidence of a Petroflex failure that I could attribute to it. My own 100 has an original ? NOS? Smiths Petroflex hose joining the main fuel line to the carb fuel pipe and although it has only been on the road for 2 years since restoration I have not seen any signs of failure and the hose is still very flexible. ?I do know that if you subject a Petroflex hose to "Varsol" ?cleaning fluid it deteriorates rapidly and that should definitely be avoided at all costs. Would appreciate your thoughts. Michael S *?* ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 15:36:42 -0600 From: "Richard J. Hockert" To: "'David Nock BCS'" , "'Simon Lachlan'" ??????? , "'Healey List'" ??????? Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol The correct AFR for alcohol (ethanol) is around 8 to 1 versus gasoline at 14.7 to 1.? Switching to 10% ethanol should equate to about a 5% richer mixture.? Ethanol produces more power than gasoline ? hence alcohol race engines but much more fuel required.? Your mileage will suffer. ? Best regards, Jim ? ? ? From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Nock BCS Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 12:49 PM To: Simon Lachlan; 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol ? The issues with the Ethanol will depend on the percentage of Ethanol they will be putting in. Here in California most of the Ethanol is 10%. However they are talking about raising that and if they do we will start having real problems. The most common issues we run into are . Overheating and miss fires under heavy load due to lean mixtures. Especially worse on the Tri Carb. This can usually be cured by installing the Rich needles. ? The other issues are lack of power and lower gas mileage. ? ? David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com ? Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 9:03 AM Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol ? It seems that the UK is to be blessed with this stuff. I?ve been asked for my thoughts on the topic and, as I know nothing about it, I?m looking for advice. See attached. What are your experiences? And what are the ?dos and don?ts?? Thanks, Simon ? _____? _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 23:59:22 +0100 From: Oudesluys To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have presumably used E85 for years. This usually contains about 5% ethanol, sometimes considerably more. So you have already changed most if not all rubber parts with modern items that are ethanol resistant. If you still have original rubber parts e.g. hoses, replace them. It is unbelievable that some people still have original fuel hoses, brake hoses etc. fitted. They should have been replaced a very long time ago. Very risky. There are claims it can corrode aluminium alloy parts in the carbs and fuel pump, but I still have to see proper physical evidence of this. Pumps and carbs that have been exposed to ethanol containing petrol for donkeys years are mostly still absolutely clean. If the petrol is contaminated with water or if the carbs/pumps have been dry for years you may see some sediment or corrosion, but this is rare. Kees Oudesluijs Op 26-1-2017 om 20:06 schreef i erbs: > eats rubber parts: hoses, carb diaphragms, and fuel pump innards. > Replace all fuel line hoses with ethanol tolerant hoses. > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR >?????? _______????????????????? _______ >????? (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) >?????????? BT7 engine and disk brakes > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > On Thu, Jan 26, 2017 at 9:03 AM, Simon Lachlan > wrote: > >???? It seems that the UK is to be blessed with this stuff. I?ve been >???? asked for my thoughts on the topic and, as I know nothing about >???? it, I?m looking for advice. > >???? See attached. > >???? What are your experiences? And what are the ?dos and don?ts?? > >???? Thanks, > >???? Simon > > >???? _______________________________________________ >???? Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >???? >???? Suggested annual donation? $12.75 >???? Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >???? Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > >???? http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >???? > >???? Unsubscribe/Manage: >???? http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com >???? > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 20:03:33 -0500 From: Charlie Baldwin To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Non Healey: Anyone looking for a project MG TD? Way too much money.? It would be a worthwhile investment at half that. On 1/26/2017 1:12 PM, mike brouillette wrote: > > Just saw this on Ebay.? If anyone is looking for a 1950 MG TD project, > this could be a good start with a buy it now at $7500. > > No interest? > > http://www.ebay.com/itm/272532817015? > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *i erbs > *Sent:* Thursday, January 26, 2017 12:54 PM > *To:* Ahealey help > *Subject:* [Healeys] Home built GTO Tribute > > https://youtu.be/hzNQUPR73Hw > > Guy built himself a fararri GTO... Hard to imagine what the bits he > had to buy cost > > Ira Erbs > > Portland,OR > >?????? _______? _______ >????? (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > >?????????? BT7 engine and disk brakes > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 20:23:27 -0500 From: "Jim Lyons" To: Subject: [Healeys] DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? Hello All, I am looking to replace or repair the DASH TOP on my 1966 BJ8. I?m looking for recommendations for vendors who can supply? the material that is closest to the original vinyl ?leathercloth?. I see that MOSS does offer a DASH TOP, PADDED, BLACK ( pt # 633-850 ) for $203.? Does anyone sell a kit with just the material ? Thanks, Jim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 7 Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 17:43:41 -0800 From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=" To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol IMO: Ethanol is a boondoggle for farmers. It takes more energy to produce than it saves. -- Steve Gerow Altadena, CA BN6 Maker of most complete Big Healey rear disc kit ------------------------------ Message: 8 Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 21:10:29 -0500 From: "Mirek Sharp" To: "'Simon Lachlan'" , "'Healey List'" ??????? Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Simon, we have been subjected to ethanol for some years here in Canada and confess I did absolutely nothing to my '59 BT7 to adjust to it.? I rebuilt the carbs 3 years ago, but prior to that, they had whatever parts I fitted when I previously serviced them, probably 15-20 years ago.? I don't thrash the car, and driving normally I noticed no difference in power, and since it is not my regular driver for work etc., I have never bothered much about fuel consumption (would it influence how much? drive it?- No!).? I can't even recall when I last serviced the fuel pump, it must be at least 25 -30 years ago, perhaps not since I put a new one in around 1975, just after I bought the car.? I expect it would affect timing but I always fine-adjust this with the Vernier on the distributor after static setting per usual practice and I get no pinging.? Being in Canada, the car is not driven during the salt season from around late November to late March(-ish). I don't top up or drain the tank, or add any fuel stabilizers, and it starts up and runs just fine in the spring (except for needing a boost some years). ? My advice is just drive it, and if something breaks, THEN fix it. ? To be clear, I not saying the ethanol has no effect, it plays havoc with the carburation on my vintage motorcycles, which are air-cooled and much less forgiving when burn-rate and combustion temperature are changed with the ethanol.? I just think the Healeys, the 3000s at least, can cope with the changes more easily.? The only other big effect I noticed is that it is attacking the lining I put in one of my BSA fuel tanks, and I will have to clean that out soon before completely breaks down (the solvent is methyl-ethyl ketone - I can't wait!). Good luck with it, Mirek ? From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan Sent: January-26-17 12:04 PM To: 'Healey List' Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol ? It seems that the UK is to be blessed with this stuff. I've been asked for my thoughts on the topic and, as I know nothing about it, I'm looking for advice. See attached. What are your experiences? And what are the "dos and don'ts"? Thanks, Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 9 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 04:12:33 +0000 From: Jean Caron To: Jim Lyons , "Healeys at autox.team.net" ??????? Subject: Re: [Healeys] DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? Message-ID: ??????? ??????? Jim, John Skinner in the UK sells it, good to deal with , reasonably priced. I am sure there are others too in the US. www.john.skinner.co.uk Jean ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Jim Lyons Sent: January 27, 2017 1:23 AM To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? Hello All, I am looking to replace or repair the DASH TOP on my 1966 BJ8. I'm looking for recommendations for vendors who can supply? the material that is closest to the original vinyl "leathercloth". I see that MOSS does offer a DASH TOP, PADDED, BLACK ( pt # 633-850 ) for $203.? Does anyone sell a kit with just the material ? Thanks, Jim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 10 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 05:06:02 +0000 From: Richard Collins To: "Steve B. Gerow" Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Message-ID: ??????? ??????? I get a solid 12% LESS miles on Calif 91 octane (highest available) than I do here in KY with 93 octane (highest available) But I am seeing more 10% Ethanol fuel in KY than in previous years. But we have many ethanol free offerings in the area. Had to change fuel line on Healey recently when it began leaking from splits/disintegration. I smelled it before I found it. Nearly a fire risk. Regards, Richard Of KY BN7 #440 > On Jan 26, 2017, at 9:26 PM, Steve B. Gerow wrote: > > IMO: > Ethanol is a boondoggle for farmers. It takes more energy to produce than it saves. > > -- > Steve Gerow > Altadena, CA > BN6 > ------------------------------ Message: 11 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 07:07:02 +0100 (MET) From: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" To: Oudesluys ,? "Healeys,? Forum" ??????? Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Message-ID: ??????? <1485497222007.6248468.9f7d93919ffb3ba7849f922f045ff06a5fb1a9ee at spica.telekom.de> ??????? Here in Europe most Austin-Healeys (95%+) were completely restored with new parts, lines, hoses, fitted. I only know one or two cars out of 100 which only got a tidying up since they were built. So extremely rare. I have many friends who use E10 (95 Octane) in their classic cars without any problems. My Austin-Healeys need 98+ Octane, so I stay with the premium fuels from Shell (V-Power (101 Octane), or ARAL Ultimate (103 Octane). These premium fuels, or the Super Plus (98 Octane) contain below 5% Ethanol. So I haven?t faced any problems. I would have some problems using E10 (95 Octane), as it would cause after-run of the engines, which are eliminated with higher octane fuels. ? Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany ? ? ? ? -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Datum: 2017-01-27T02:15:07+0100 Von: "Oudesluys" An: "healeys at autox.team.net" ? ? ? It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have presumably used E85 for years. This usually contains about 5% ethanol, sometimes considerably more. So you have already changed most if not all rubber parts with modern items that are ethanol resistant. If you still have original rubber parts e.g. hoses, replace them. It is unbelievable that some people still have original fuel hoses, brake hoses etc. fitted. They should have been replaced a very long time ago. Very risky. There are claims it can corrode aluminium alloy parts in the carbs and fuel pump, but I still have to see proper physical evidence of this. Pumps and carbs that have been exposed to ethanol containing petrol for donkeys years are mostly still absolutely clean. If the petrol is contaminated with water or if the carbs/pumps have been dry for years you may see some sediment or corrosion, but this is rare. Kees Oudesluijs Op 26-1-2017 om 20:06 schreef i erbs: ??? eats rubber parts: hoses, carb diaphragms, and fuel pump innards. ??? Replace all fuel line hoses with ethanol tolerant hoses.?? ??? Ira Erbs ??? Portland,OR ????????? _______????????????????????????????????? _______ ???????? (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) ???????????? (_________________________) ????????????? BT7 engine and disk brakes ???? ??? A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti ??? Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words ??? On Thu, Jan 26, 2017 at 9:03 AM, Simon Lachlan < ??? wrote: ??????? It seems that the UK is to be blessed with this stuff. I?ve been ??????? asked for my thoughts on the topic and, as I know nothing about it, ??????? I?m looking for advice. ??????? See attached. ??????? What are your experiences? And what are the ?dos and don?ts?? ??????? Thanks, ??????? Simon ??????? _______________________________________________ ??????? Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html ??????? ??????? Suggested annual donation? $12.75 ??????? Archive: http://www.team.net/archive ??????? Forums: http://www.team.net/forums ??????? http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys ??????? ??????? Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ ??????? options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com ??????? ??? _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html ??? Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive:http://www.team.net/archive ??? Forums:http://www.team.net/forums ??? Healeys at autox.team.net ??? Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl ??? ? ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 12 Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 22:54:48 -0800 From: "John Spaur" To: , "'Oudesluys'" , ??????? "'Healeys,? Forum'" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Wish I could get 93 octane let alone 95 or 98! ? John San Jose, CA ? From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of josef-eckert at t-online.de Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 10:07 PM To: Oudesluys ; Healeys, Forum Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol ? ?I have many friends who use E10 (95 Octane) in their classic cars without any problems. My Austin-Healeys need 98+ Octane,? Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany ? ? ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 13 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 07:59:51 +0100 (MET) From: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" To: John Spaur ,? "Healeys,? Forum" ??????? Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Message-ID: ??????? <1485500391228.6130407.3568cfdf787e44368a8b41d97a311d79d249f1fa at spica.telekom.de> ??????? John, as far as I know 95 grade "European Octane" is comparable with 91 grade "American Octane". Don?t know the reason for that, as I never went into it further. I.E. Afgas for plane engines is about 103 Octane Europe. ? Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany ? ? ? -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: RE: [Healeys] Ethanol Datum: 2017-01-27T07:54:53+0100 Von: "John Spaur" An: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" , "'Oudesluys'" , "'Healeys, Forum'" ? ? ? Wish I could get 93 octane let alone 95 or 98! ? John San Jose, CA ? From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of josef-eckert at t-online.de Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 10:07 PM To: Oudesluys ; Healeys, Forum Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol ? ?I have many friends who use E10 (95 Octane) in their classic cars without any problems. My Austin-Healeys need 98+ Octane,? Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany ? ? ? ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 14 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 07:58:38 +0000 From: Derek Job To: Jim Lyons Cc: Forum Subject: Re: [Healeys] DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? Message-ID: ??????? AH Spares sell the leather cloth by the metre. Derek On Fri, Jan 27, 2017 at 1:23 AM, Jim Lyons wrote: > Hello All, > I am looking to replace or repair the DASH TOP on my 1966 BJ8. I?m looking > for recommendations for vendors who can supply? the material that is > closest to the original vinyl ?leathercloth?. > I see that MOSS does offer a DASH TOP, PADDED, BLACK ( pt # 633-850 ) for > $203.? Does anyone sell a kit with just the material ? > > Thanks, > Jim > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 15 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 10:44:27 +0100 From: Oudesluys To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol In Europe there was often a substantial amount of ethanol in post war petrol wel into the '60's. Petrol was not of the best quality and ethanol was used as an octane booster. Not many problems at the time. Kees Oudesluijs Op 26-1-2017 om 21:20 schreef Michael Salter: > /I doubt many if any cars in UK are E85 compliant.? All fuel lines > made prior to 1995 in US were NOT ethanol ready and will fall apart > readily. > > /Hi Randy, > Your note has raised a very interesting question. > Have you had any experience with original Petroflex hoses failing due > to ethanol? > We have been subjected to ethanol for many years now and I cannot > recall even one incidence of a Petroflex failure that I could > attribute to it. > My own 100 has an original > ? NOS? > Smiths Petroflex hose joining the main fuel line to the carb fuel pipe > and although it has only been on the road for 2 years since > restoration I have not seen any signs of failure and the hose is still > very flexible. > ?I do know that if you subject a Petroflex hose to "Varsol" ?cleaning > fluid it deteriorates rapidly and that should definitely be avoided at > all costs. > Would appreciate your thoughts. > > Michael S > > > > > > /?/ > ? > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 16 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 13:25:03 +0100 From: Oudesluys To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Op 26-1-2017 om 23:59 schreef Oudesluys: > It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have > presumably used E85 for years Should of course be E95 Kees Oudesluijs ------------------------------ Message: 17 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 08:33:12 -0500 From: Bob Haskell To: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" , John Spaur ??????? , "Healeys, Forum" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol John and Josef, There are two methods for measuring octane rating - motoring and research.? The average of the two is used in the US.? The higher research octane number is used in Europe. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 01/27/2017 01:59 AM, josef-eckert at t-online.de wrote: > John, > > as far as I know 95 grade "European Octane" is comparable with 91 grade > "American Octane". Don?t know the reason for that, as I never went into > it further. I.E. Afgas for plane engines is about 103 Octane Europe. > > Josef Eckert > > K?nigswinter/Germany > > -----Original-Nachricht----- > > Betreff: RE: [Healeys] Ethanol > > Datum: 2017-01-27T07:54:53+0100 > > Von: "John Spaur" > > An: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" , "'Oudesluys'" > , "'Healeys, Forum'" > > Wish I could get 93 octane let alone 95 or 98! > > John > > San Jose, CA > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *josef-eckert at t-online.de > *Sent:* Thursday, January 26, 2017 10:07 PM > *To:* Oudesluys ; Healeys, Forum > > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > > ?I have many friends who use E10 (95 Octane) in their classic cars > without any problems. My Austin-Healeys need 98+ Octane,? > > Josef Eckert > > K?nigswinter/Germany > > ? > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > ------------------------------ Message: 18 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 06:05:03 -0800 From: i erbs To: Jim Lyons Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? Message-ID: ??????? Mods sells material by the yard Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes Portland,OR On Jan 26, 2017 6:52 PM, "Jim Lyons" wrote: > Hello All, > I am looking to replace or repair the DASH TOP on my 1966 BJ8. I?m looking > for recommendations for vendors who can supply? the material that is > closest to the original vinyl ?leathercloth?. > I see that MOSS does offer a DASH TOP, PADDED, BLACK ( pt # 633-850 ) for > $203.? Does anyone sell a kit with just the material ? > > Thanks, > Jim > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 19 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 14:14:30 +0000 (UTC) From: Bob Spidell To: Michael Salter Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Message-ID: ??????? <1341990277.104838709.1485526470549.JavaMail.zimbra at comcast.net> My BJ8 has had a Petroflex line in it for 100K+ miles and 25+ years and hasn't had a problem. It does feel a little stiff and since I'm doing an overhaul I've bought a replacement (watch it crap out in 3 months ;). Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Salter" To: "Randy Alkins" , "healeys" Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 12:20:56 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol I doubt many if any cars in UK are E85 compliant. All fuel lines made prior to 1995 in US were NOT ethanol ready and will fall apart readily. Hi Randy, Your note has raised a very interesting question. Have you had any experience with original Petroflex hoses failing due to ethanol? We have been subjected to ethanol for many years now and I cannot recall even one incidence of a Petroflex failure that I could attribute to it. My own 100 has an original ? NOS? Smiths Petroflex hose joining the main fuel line to the carb fuel pipe and although it has only been on the road for 2 years since restoration I have not seen any signs of failure and the hose is still very flexible. ?I do know that if you subject a Petroflex hose to "Varsol" ?cleaning fluid it deteriorates rapidly and that should definitely be avoided at all costs. Would appreciate your thoughts. Michael S ? ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 20 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 14:20:02 +0000 (UTC) From: Bob Spidell To: "Richard J. Hockert" Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Message-ID: ??????? <528184118.104844061.1485526802079.JavaMail.zimbra at comcast.net> Ethanol has a much lower energy content than gasoline, hence the lower mileage with gasahol. See here: http://www.afdc.energy.gov/fuels/fuel_comparison_chart.pdf ('alternate fuels,' not 'alternate facts') It does, however, have a higher octane rating allowing the huge compression ratios in dragsters and other racers; which is what produces the massive power in those engines. Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard J. Hockert" To: "David Nock BCS" , "Simon Lachlan" , "Healey List" Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 1:36:42 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol The correct AFR for alcohol (ethanol) is around 8 to 1 versus gasoline at 14.7 to 1. Switching to 10% ethanol should equate to about a 5% richer mixture. Ethanol produces more power than gasoline ? hence alcohol race engines but much more fuel required. Your mileage will suffer. Best regards, Jim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 21 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 15:36:53 +0000 (UTC) From: Bob Spidell To: John Spaur Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Message-ID: ??????? <1823390093.104910346.1485531413259.JavaMail.zimbra at comcast.net> I believe the European octane ratings are Research Method only, which reads 3-5 points higher than US (R+M)/2. So, European 98 octane would be equivalent to US 93 octane (rare, but available in some areas in the States; 100-octane is available for boat engines around Havasu). Contrary to popular belief, ethanol can actually raise octane. There's a gas station in Los Altos that used to sell 95-octane, which was E10 IIRC. It's very difficult to raise the octane rating of pure gas--it requires special refining--that's why TEL was added starting around WWII for high-compression fighter engines (it was 'discovered' at the Sloan-Kettering institute, who tested several thousand compounds before settling on TEL). Adding ethanol to gasoline means the gas part doesn't have to be as carefully refined (hence 'cheaper'). There is an exhaustive research program being undertaken in order to develop an aviation fuel to replace 100LL--100-octane, 'low-lead,' which I believe is 'only' 2 grams/gallon of elemental lead vs. 3 grams/gallon of previous formulations--and it is proceeding very slowly due to its complexity. I've run tanks of E10 and tanks of pure gas, and didn't notice any significant variance in mileage, but it's usually an 'oranges-to-apples' comparison since most runs involve a mix of highway/freeway and grades, stop-and-go, etc. ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Spaur" To: josef-eckert at t-online.de, "Oudesluys" , "Forum' 'Healeys" Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 10:54:48 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Wish I could get 93 octane let alone 95 or 98! John San Jose, CA -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 22 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 15:43:12 +0000 (UTC) From: Bob Spidell To: Oudesluys Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Message-ID: ??????? <532867142.104914937.1485531792988.JavaMail.zimbra at comcast.net> OK, now I be confused. In the States, E10 is 10% ethanol, E85 is 85% ethanol, so E95 would be 95% ethanol. Is that correct? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Oudesluys" To: "healeys" Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 4:25:03 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Op 26-1-2017 om 23:59 schreef Oudesluys: > It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have > presumably used E85 for years Should of course be E95 Kees Oudesluijs -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 23 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 11:04:04 -0500 From: Wayne To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BJ-8 rear end housing Hello, ??????????? My rear end housing is bent and I may need a replacement. I would be interested in a complete assembly or just the housing itself. I discovered the problem when I had difficulty removing the rear axles, and once they are out they bind on the hub studs preventing reassembly.? I will pull the differential today and install the axles to see how bad the misalignment is. I am located in CT. Wayne ------------------------------ Message: 24 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 12:04:54 -0500 From: randyalkins To: Bob Spidell , Oudesluys ??????? Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Have not heard of 95. There is talk of e15 which will be bad for all. 10 was bad. And some warranties will be denied by engine maufacturers if it goes to 15 Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device-------- Original message --------From: Bob Spidell Date: 1/27/2017? 10:43 AM? (GMT-05:00) To: Oudesluys Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol OK, now I be confused.? In the States, E10 is 10% ethanol, E85 is 85% ethanol, so E95 would be 95% ethanol.? Is that correct? From: "Oudesluys" To: "healeys" Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 4:25:03 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Op 26-1-2017 om 23:59 schreef Oudesluys: > It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have > presumably used E85 for years Should of course be E95 Kees Oudesluijs -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 25 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 10:54:38 -0800 From: "David Nock" To: "Bob Spidell" , "Oudesluys" ??????? Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Check out this report/ road test of a comparison of E85 to Gas. https://www.edmunds.com/fuel-economy/e85-vs-gasoline-comparison-test.html Here at the shop we have been dealing with this problem for a long time with a lot of cars. And found the same problems with all of them, some worse than others. Overheating due the removal of the gas and addition of the Ethanol. The Ethanol burns hotter which reduces emissions. This causes older cars to run hotter. Lower gas mileage and lower performance Miss fires and? Lack of power due to the leaner mixture. The is especially worse on a Tri Carb Healey, the rear carb will lean out on a long hard run at a steady hight rpm. Also Ethanol has a very strong cleaning ability, So if you start using Ethanol in a older gas tank or a tank that has been sitting for while that has a lot of varnish build up. The Ethanol will go about its cleaning ability and clean up all that varnish in the tank and deposit it in the carburettors. I know that there are lots of those out there that have all the techy stuff. But I go by what I have learned by over 40 year of working on all British cars and lots of them. The bottom line with 10 % Ethanol your Vintage car will run hotter, get worse fuel economy and may experience miss fires under heavy acceleration. David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 209 948 8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: Bob Spidell Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 7:43 AM To: Oudesluys Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol OK, now I be confused.? In the States, E10 is 10% ethanol, E85 is 85% ethanol, so E95 would be 95% ethanol.? Is that correct? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Oudesluys" To: "healeys" Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 4:25:03 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Op 26-1-2017 om 23:59 schreef Oudesluys: > It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have > presumably used E85 for years Should of course be E95 Kees Oudesluijs -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ Healeys mailing list Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys ------------------------------ End of Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 33 *************************************** _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Jan 27 23:43:11 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 22:43:11 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] anyone looking for a project car? References: Lol. They have four cars for sale. All piles of shit. Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes Portland,OR On Jan 27, 2017 8:52 PM, "Richard Ewald" wrote: > I am tempted to ask them just what kind of drugs they were using when they > came up with 4K as a price point. I wonder if they meant $40.00 and > misplaced the decimal. > Rick > > On Fri, Jan 27, 2017 at 6:57 PM, i erbs wrote: > >> http://tinyurl.com/hm9y222 >> Looks to me like you would be paying $4K for a vin #, but some people >> like a challenge >> >> >> >> Ira Erbs >> Portland,OR >> _______ _______ >> (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) >> (_________________________) >> BT7 engine and disk brakes >> >> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti >> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com >> >> >> > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From john at jtkarowe.com.au Sat Jan 28 03:26:21 2017 From: john at jtkarowe.com.au (John Rowe) Date: Sat, 28 Jan 2017 20:26:21 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] octane References: <20170128034750.18315.qmail@server278.com> Reverse that- 85% ethanol, 15% fuel John Rowe Qld Australia -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of healeymanjim Sent: Saturday, 28 January 2017 1:48 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] octane there are stations here in vegas that sell E85, which multi-fuel vehicles can use. i was told it is 15percent ethanol/85 gasoline. _______________________________________________ $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/john at jtkarowe.com.au ----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2016.0.7998 / Virus Database: 4749/13852 - Release Date: 01/28/17 From drmasucci at comcast.net Sat Jan 28 05:17:43 2017 From: drmasucci at comcast.net (David Masucci) Date: Sat, 28 Jan 2017 07:17:43 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BJ-8 rear end housing References: <1dff32ad-33b5-ae3f-0ac8-7d6b58b55f27@gmail.com> Hi Wayne, I live in Townsend Ma. I?ve been dragging around a BJ8 rear end for about 40 years under the pretense that I ?might need that someday?. Well I have to start cleaning out some of that kind of stuff. It?s under my barn and I haven?t looked at it for some time, and we would need to check if it?s the type that you need. If you?re interested and need some pictures let me know. Dave > On Jan 27, 2017, at 11:04 AM, Wayne wrote: > > Hello, > > My rear end housing is bent and I may need a replacement. I would be interested in a complete assembly or just the housing itself. I discovered the problem when I had difficulty removing the rear axles, and once they are out they bind on the hub studs preventing reassembly. I will pull the differential today and install the axles to see how bad the misalignment is. I am located in CT. > > Wayne > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/drmasucci at comcast.net > From rchaskell at earthlink.net Sat Jan 28 05:21:30 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Sat, 28 Jan 2017 07:21:30 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] octane References: <20170128034750.18315.qmail@server278.com> E85 is 85% ethanol. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 01/27/2017 10:47 PM, healeymanjim wrote: > there are stations here in vegas that sell E85, which multi-fuel vehicles can use. i was told it is 15percent ethanol/85 > gasoline. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > > From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sat Jan 28 09:18:24 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sat, 28 Jan 2017 08:18:24 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] octane References: <20170128034750.18315.qmail@server278.com> My 2010 Dodge truck is flex fuel and will run on E85, E10 or 100 Petrol. gas mileage goes down, HP goes up, E85 is cheaper than E10, at least in Oregon Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Fri, Jan 27, 2017 at 7:47 PM, healeymanjim wrote: > there are stations here in vegas that sell E85, which multi-fuel vehicles > can use. i was told it is 15percent ethanol/85 > gasoline. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sat Jan 28 09:19:40 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sat, 28 Jan 2017 08:19:40 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] octane References: <20170128034750.18315.qmail@server278.com> E85 is 85% ethanol, Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Fri, Jan 27, 2017 at 7:47 PM, healeymanjim wrote: > there are stations here in vegas that sell E85, which multi-fuel vehicles > can use. i was told it is 15percent ethanol/85 > gasoline. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From blkbt7 at yahoo.com Sat Jan 28 10:50:46 2017 From: blkbt7 at yahoo.com (ROBERT BROWN) Date: Sat, 28 Jan 2017 12:50:46 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] octane References: <20170128034750.18315.qmail@server278.com> E85 is cheaper on the U,S. Because the Feds subsidize it. Otherwise it would cost more than the E10 regular, Sent from my iPhone > On Jan 28, 2017, at 11:18 AM, i erbs wrote: > > My 2010 Dodge truck is flex fuel and will run on E85, E10 or 100 Petrol. gas mileage goes down, HP goes up, E85 is cheaper than E10, at least in Oregon > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > >> On Fri, Jan 27, 2017 at 7:47 PM, healeymanjim wrote: >> there are stations here in vegas that sell E85, which multi-fuel vehicles can use. i was told it is 15percent ethanol/85 >> gasoline. >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/blkbt7 at yahoo.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dwflagg at juno.com Sat Jan 28 14:41:35 2017 From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com) Date: Sat, 28 Jan 2017 21:41:35 GMT Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 Fuel Pump Would anyone have a rebuildable 100/4 fuel pump, or at least the bottom half, for sale or trade? Please contact off the list. TIA. Cheers, Doug ____________________________________________________________ The Real Reason Johnny Carson Show Went Off Air trend-chaser.com http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/588d1042b522110422d80st52duc -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat Jan 28 16:10:20 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sun, 29 Jan 2017 00:10:20 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 Fuel Pump References: <20170128.164135.3478.1@webmail10.dca.untd.com> Which pump is fitted? A picture might help. I have several overhauled series 300/1300 high pressure and high flow SU pumps lying about. No square body pumps. They are all properly cleaned and rebuild, not tarted up with black paint on the coil housing as that was originally untreated cast iron. Some parts can be a bit tarnished externally, some steel caps that were severely rusted, have been painted. All are fitted with a bipolar transil, so they are both negative and positive earth. Shipping is $28. Kees Oudesluijs Op 28-1-2017 om 22:41 schreef dwflagg at juno.com: > Would anyone have a rebuildable 100/4 fuel pump, or at least the > bottom half, for sale or trade? Please contact off the list. TIA. > Cheers, > Doug > > > ____________________________________________________________ > *The Real Reason Johnny Carson Show Went Off Air* > trend-chaser.com > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/588d1042b522110422d80st52duc > SponsoredBy Content.Ad > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From molony at dodo.com.au Sat Jan 28 17:52:16 2017 From: molony at dodo.com.au (Graeme Molony) Date: Sun, 29 Jan 2017 11:52:16 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol / Octane References: <20170128034750.18315.qmail@server278.com> <0898E03E-AC5E-4457-9F47-E8523BBEF628@yahoo.com> Slightly off subject We have a professional touring racing car series down here In Australia and New Zealand called V8 Supercars. The series which is run over race tracks rather than ovals like Nascar comprises Ford,Holden (GM) Nissan and Volvos all limited to 5 Litre capacity and developing around 650 hp and is allegedly the most competitive touring car series in the world It is not uncommon to see 95% of the field qualifying with less than a half a second lap time difference and the remainder of the field being less than a second slower than the lead car Four or five years back the organisers decided to do the right thing by the environment and mandated that the only fuel that was to be used by these cars was E85 Ethanol It took them a while to sort out the change from 100 Octane Gas that was previously used to accommodate the use of E85. God they sounded awful at the first event of the season that I attended with lots of run on backfiring etc. and the mileage per gallon was well down. They finally got there heads around the problem and the cars are faster and more efficient than ever on the E85 So I guess there is hope for us all Graeme Molony (BJ8 that runs on 91 Octane Gas) Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/molony at dodo.com.au -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sat Jan 28 18:01:29 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sat, 28 Jan 2017 17:01:29 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] octane References: <20170128034750.18315.qmail@server278.com> <0898E03E-AC5E-4457-9F47-E8523BBEF628@yahoo.com> Let's hear it for giant agra biz and their lobyists Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Sat, Jan 28, 2017 at 9:50 AM, ROBERT BROWN wrote: > E85 is cheaper on the U,S. Because the Feds subsidize it. Otherwise it > would cost more than the E10 regular, > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Jan 28, 2017, at 11:18 AM, i erbs wrote: > > My 2010 Dodge truck is flex fuel and will run on E85, E10 or 100 Petrol. > gas mileage goes down, HP goes up, E85 is cheaper than E10, at least in > Oregon > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > On Fri, Jan 27, 2017 at 7:47 PM, healeymanjim > wrote: > >> there are stations here in vegas that sell E85, which multi-fuel vehicles >> can use. i was told it is 15percent ethanol/85 >> gasoline. >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com >> >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/blkbt7 at yahoo.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From YNOTINK at msn.com Sat Jan 28 23:13:45 2017 From: YNOTINK at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Sun, 29 Jan 2017 06:13:45 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] octane References: <20170128034750.18315.qmail@server278.com> <0898E03E-AC5E-4457-9F47-E8523BBEF628@yahoo.com>, Yeah, great idea that,turning food into motor fuel. Raises the price of both. ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of i erbs Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2017 1:01:29 AM To: ROBERT BROWN Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] octane Let's hear it for giant agra biz and their lobyists Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words E85 is cheaper on the U,S. Because the Feds subsidize it. Otherwise it would cost more than the E10 regular, Sent from my iPhone My 2010 Dodge truck is flex fuel and will run on E85, E10 or 100 Petrol. gas mileage goes down, HP goes up, E85 is cheaper than E10, at least in Oregon Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words there are stations here in vegas that sell E85, which multi-fuel vehicles can use. i was told it is 15percent ethanol/85 gasoline. _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyray at yahoo.com Sun Jan 29 12:12:23 2017 From: healeyray at yahoo.com (Ray Juncal) Date: Sun, 29 Jan 2017 19:12:23 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] octane References: <1608368787.1292694.1485717143600.ref@mail.yahoo.com> I agree with William B Lawrence making fuel out of corn is a bad idea. It's driving up the price of Bourbon. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From editorgary at aol.com Sun Jan 29 15:05:37 2017 From: editorgary at aol.com (editorgary at aol.com) Date: Sun, 29 Jan 2017 17:05:37 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Know any one who needs an MBA soft-top frame? Realizing how hard it would be these days to find a good set of top-bows for an Austin-Healey roadster, I wonder if any of you know anyone who needs a set of top bows in very good condition from an MGA. When I bought my donor MGA to get a decent body for my race car, it came with a reasonable good soft top, complete with vinyl covering. But obviously, with a roll cage and racing wind screens I had no use for the soft top and side curtains, so I carefully stored them away. Now many years later I really need the storage space, and I just hate the idea of trashing something that someone doing a street restoration might be desperately looking for. Any advice would be appreciated. All I would need is enough money to have them packed and shipped to the new owner (or you could come pick them up at my San Francisco peninsula home. If you know someone, let them know. Gary Anderson Editor-in-Chief, The Star Magazine Mercedes-Benz Club of America -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Mon Jan 30 12:04:10 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Mon, 30 Jan 2017 19:04:10 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol and fuel filter First off, thank you all for your input re ethanol. Seems like it's not a Good Thing and that it gets worse as we go over 10%. That's a brutal precis of a lot of wise advice! One last thing.I need this info for an article so do you have any anecdotal stuff that's ethanol related?? Sort of "I was driving down the highway when the diaphragm split and there I was, up to my ankles in E10, with only five minutes before I was due to scrub up"...no real need to spoil a good story with the truth but I suppose we need to keep our feet near the ground. Now, slightly inspired by all the talk of ethanol eating rubber and all the accumulated crud, I thought I might reinstall my fuel filter. It's an "AC", at least labelled as such.one of the glass bowl types. I was thinking of mounting it beneath the 6-way flasher/relay box about level with the top of the shock absorber. Is there any reason why it can't be down there? ie +/-18" lower than the carbs?? For the life of me I can't see a reason, but only fools rush in..? Thanks, Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Jan 30 13:24:30 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Mon, 30 Jan 2017 12:24:30 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol and fuel filter References: <000001d27b2b$a3f5f0a0$ebe1d1e0$@homecall.co.uk> the only concern should be that it does break if its the glass type. The fuel pump is below the carbs. Pressure will push the fuel. BTW, at least here is Oregon, one can still find ethanol free petrol. It cost more per US gallon. There are a few places not far from my house that sells it. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Mon, Jan 30, 2017 at 11:04 AM, Simon Lachlan < simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk> wrote: > First off, thank you all for your input re ethanol. Seems like it?s not a > Good Thing and that it gets worse as we go over 10%. That?s a brutal precis > of a lot of wise advice! One last thing?I need this info for an article so > do you have any anecdotal stuff that?s ethanol related?? Sort of ?I was > driving down the highway when the diaphragm split and there I was, up to my > ankles in E10, with only five minutes before I was due to scrub up??..no > real need to spoil a good story with the truth but I suppose we need to > keep our feet near the ground. > > Now, slightly inspired by all the talk of ethanol eating rubber and all > the accumulated crud, I thought I might reinstall my fuel filter. It?s an > ?AC?, at least labelled as such?one of the glass bowl types. I was thinking > of mounting it beneath the 6-way flasher/relay box about level with the top > of the shock absorber. Is there any reason why it can?t be down there? ie > +/-18? lower than the carbs?? For the life of me I can?t see a reason, but > only fools rush in?.? > > Thanks, > > Simon > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From johnbday at me.com Mon Jan 30 13:46:04 2017 From: johnbday at me.com (John Day) Date: Mon, 30 Jan 2017 20:46:04 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol and fuel filter ethanol free gasoline ?is often?sold at marinas - at?marina level pricing - but even up here in VT it is available John B. Day Sent from iCloud On Jan 30, 2017, at 03:42 PM, i erbs wrote: the only concern should be that it does break if its the glass type. The fuel pump is below the carbs. Pressure will push the fuel. ?BTW, at least here is Oregon, one can still find ethanol free petrol. It cost more per US gallon. There are a few places not far from my house that sells it. Ira Erbs Portland,OR ? ? ? _______ ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?_______ ? ?? (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) ? ? ? ?? (_________________________) ? ? ? ? ? BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Mon, Jan 30, 2017 at 11:04 AM, Simon Lachlan wrote: First off, thank you all for your input re ethanol. Seems like it?s not a Good Thing and that it gets worse as we go over 10%. That?s a brutal precis of a lot of wise advice! One last thing?I need this info for an article so do you have any anecdotal stuff that?s ethanol related?? Sort of ?I was driving down the highway when the diaphragm split and there I was, up to my ankles in E10, with only five minutes before I was due to scrub up??..no real need to spoil a good story with the truth but I suppose we need to keep our feet near the ground. Now, slightly inspired by all the talk of ethanol eating rubber and all the accumulated crud, I thought I might reinstall my fuel filter. It?s an ?AC?, at least labelled as such?one of the glass bowl types. I was thinking of mounting it beneath the 6-way flasher/relay box about level with the top of the shock absorber. Is there any reason why it can?t be down there? ie +/-18? lower than the carbs?? For the life of me I can?t see a reason, but only fools rush in?.? Thanks, Simon _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fredwescoe at gmail.com Mon Jan 30 15:20:37 2017 From: fredwescoe at gmail.com (Fred Wescoe) Date: Mon, 30 Jan 2017 17:20:37 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol-free gas stations in the U.S. and Canada References: This site may help all of us. It shows ethanol free and high octane stations across the country. It is more expensive but many times well worth it. I live near a 95, 100 and 110 octane, ethanol free station. I mix the 110 with 91/93 octane ethanol for a rough average of 100 octane and 5% ethanol. My BJ8 runs beautifully with this mix. I have a friend with a 64 Corvette and a 70 Porsche and he runs the same mix in both his cars. The station I visit will not allow a gas can fill up. The pump is locked and you must come in with your car to get the gas. They check the car and then pump the gas. Hopefully, all will find something for their car. Enjoy! http://www.pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=NC -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Mon Jan 30 20:42:58 2017 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Mon, 30 Jan 2017 22:42:58 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol-free gas stations in the U.S. and Canada References: Correction ? not just across the country, but across countries! I found two within 10 Km of me up here in the GWN ? many thanks!! Mirek From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Fred Wescoe Sent: January-30-17 5:21 PM To: healeys Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol-free gas stations in the U.S. and Canada This site may help all of us. It shows ethanol free and high octane stations across the country. It is more expensive but many times well worth it. I live near a 95, 100 and 110 octane, ethanol free station. I mix the 110 with 91/93 octane ethanol for a rough average of 100 octane and 5% ethanol. My BJ8 runs beautifully with this mix. I have a friend with a 64 Corvette and a 70 Porsche and he runs the same mix in both his cars. The station I visit will not allow a gas can fill up. The pump is locked and you must come in with your car to get the gas. They check the car and then pump the gas. Hopefully, all will find something for their car. Enjoy! http://www.pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=NC -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bighealey3k at aim.com Mon Jan 30 21:40:36 2017 From: bighealey3k at aim.com (Larry Wendland) Date: Mon, 30 Jan 2017 23:40:36 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol and fuel filter References: Here's a web site that claims to show ethanol free gas stations by state. Click on the "Select State" arrow and they will be indicated with addresses. And you can add to the list if you find one not on the list. Here's the link: http://www.buyrealgas.com/ I found it by googleing Ethanol Fee Gas and it was one of the links listed. Larry '67 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: John Day To: i erbs Cc: Healey List Sent: Mon, Jan 30, 2017 4:13 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol and fuel filter ethanol free gasoline ?is often?sold at marinas - at?marina level pricing - but even up here in VT it is available John B. DaySent from iCloud On Jan 30, 2017, at 03:42 PM, i erbs wrote: the only concern should be that it does break if its the glass type. The fuel pump is below the carbs. Pressure will push the fuel. ?BTW, at least here is Oregon, one can still find ethanol free petrol. It cost more per US gallon. There are a few places not far from my house that sells it. Ira Erbs Portland,OR ? ? ? _______ ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?_______ ? ?? (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) ? ? ? ?? (_________________________) ? ? ? ? ? BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Mon, Jan 30, 2017 at 11:04 AM, Simon Lachlan wrote: First off, thank you all for your input re ethanol. Seems like it?s not a Good Thing and that it gets worse as we go over 10%. That?s a brutal precis of a lot of wise advice! One last thing?I need this info for an article so do you have any anecdotal stuff that?s ethanol related?? Sort of ?I was driving down the highway when the diaphragm split and there I was, up to my ankles in E10, with only five minutes before I was due to scrub up??..no real need to spoil a good story with the truth but I suppose we need to keep our feet near the ground. Now, slightly inspired by all the talk of ethanol eating rubber and all the accumulated crud, I thought I might reinstall my fuel filter. It?s an ?AC?, at least labelled as such?one of the glass bowl types. I was thinking of mounting it beneath the 6-way flasher/relay box about level with the top of the shock absorber. Is there any reason why it can?t be down there? ie +/-18? lower than the carbs?? For the life of me I can?t see a reason, but only fools rush in?.? Thanks, Simon _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From tomfelts at windstream.net Sun Jan 1 07:32:42 2017 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2017 9:32:42 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] TR6 question Which, FWIW, is about 30 miles from my house. They are well stocked with Triumph parts. ---- WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: ============= There was a time when you couldn't find a decent throw bearing for these. the OEM were cheap and tended to lock up, taking out the fingers on the diaphragm pressure plate. I think most suppliers are using a Toyota bearing in its place with good results. The best parts source (and source of the best parts) for these as well as having an incredibly detailed catalog with practically every part ilustrated in blow-up is The Roadster Factory in Armagh, PA. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Frank Magnusson Sent: Saturday, December 31, 2016 7:27:38 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] TR6 question Things to look for: A. Rocker panel rot just in front of the doors. The scuttle vent has a water drain tube on each side that just exits between the body and the fender at this spot and if any leaves, etc get down in there, this is where it rots out. Check it with a magnet for bondo. B. Rot on the valence panel where the top attaches to the body at the rear, on the sides where it meets the rear fender. Not sure why it rots here, but its notorious. C. Cracks on the front shock towers. Easily welded to repair. D. Diff mount cracks. The rear springs are fairly soft and put a lot of load into the diff mounts when you accelerate. One of the four is worst; dont recall which. Easily welded. If you get the car, upgrade the springs to competition springs which are much stiffer and upgrade the shocks with heavier duty valving. Lots of people chnage over to telescoping shocks and there are kits to do that, but I never had a problem with the originals. E. juddering clutch. Really only a factor on higher mileage cars due to Triumphs clutch release mechanism design. Stag has it much worse due to the bigger engine and gearbox but starting to show up on other models. Buckeye Triumphs in Ohio has a great article on how to fix it, whihc worked on my Stag. Other than that all the usual stuff, rust, bondo, synchros. Engine is fairly bullet proof. This is one of the better Triumphs. Its no big Healey, but its a great car and much more roadable than the other Triumphs due to the 15 inch wheels. Great car. OD is a plus, but very easy to install one if you can find one. They're around. Hope this helps, Frank _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Jan 1 11:17:46 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2017 10:17:46 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Mention Besides Healeys, another passion of mine is aviation, though I haven't flown in a few years. I've been catching up on my backlog of aviation magazine reading, and came across something in the November 2016 issue of 'Plane & Pilot' magazine I thought y'all might have an interest in. The author is Bill Cox, a noted aviation writer and ferry pilot, and the article is about how 'flying never gets old' and is entitled 'Perspectives.' He's referring to his first visit to Telluride, Colorado, USA: "My first visit to this tall paradise was over Christmas break in the mid-'60s when I was 50 years more athletic, but that trip was in a '63 Austin-Healey 3000, not a bad ride, but temporarily attached to Highway 145. At the time, I barely noticed the difference, as the UNM coeds back in Albuquerque loved that little sports car, and accordingly, so did I." Happy New Year to all and have a good ride in 2017. Bob From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Jan 1 11:27:23 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2017 10:27:23 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Mention 2 I got so excited about the first mention, I didn't finish the article. Further along, Bill writes: "In contrast, a general aviation airplane is more like a flying version of my old Austin-Healey, good visibility straight ahead and behind, to both sides, nearly straight down and even straight up if you leave the top down, something you can never do in an Airbus or Boeing (Aloha Airlines 737 notwithstanding)." From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sun Jan 1 12:26:41 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2017 11:26:41 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Mention References: ? Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes Portland,OR On Jan 1, 2017 11:12 AM, "Bob Spidell" wrote: > Besides Healeys, another passion of mine is aviation, though I haven't > flown in a few years. I've been catching up on my backlog of aviation > magazine reading, and came across something in the November 2016 issue of > 'Plane & Pilot' magazine I thought y'all might have an interest in. The > author is Bill Cox, a noted aviation writer and ferry pilot, and the > article is about how 'flying never gets old' and is entitled > 'Perspectives.' He's referring to his first visit to Telluride, Colorado, > USA: > > "My first visit to this tall paradise was over Christmas break in the > mid-'60s when I was 50 years more athletic, but that trip was in a '63 > Austin-Healey 3000, not a bad ride, but temporarily attached to Highway > 145. At the time, I barely noticed the difference, as the UNM coeds back > in Albuquerque loved that little sports car, and accordingly, so did I." > > Happy New Year to all and have a good ride in 2017. > > Bob > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Sun Jan 1 12:41:07 2017 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2017 14:41:07 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Draught Excluder for BN7 References: <15956dac32d-482d-2aa5d@webprd-m51.mail.aol.com> IMHO, the only one worth a damn is Britstleflex. It comes in Navy and will stay on, unlike the other repros I've dealt with. Forget trying to order online, you'll have to keep calling until you get Martin on the phone and you still may have a wait to get your stuff, but it will be worth it. Happy New Year! Rick Neville On Sat, Dec 31, 2016 at 4:48 PM, wrote: > The rubber bulb seal on the draught excluder around the driver side door > opening on my BN7 (restored in 1993) is starting to rip, so I'd like to > replace it. The kicker is that the car is blue, and the fuzzy cloth part of > the seal is blue -- I remember that for a long while the only replacement > version was just black material. Does anyone know if the draught excluder > is available from any source in dark blue? > > Thanks > gary > > *Gary Anderson* > Registrar, AHCR > > > > *************************************** > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Sun Jan 1 12:52:21 2017 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2017 11:52:21 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] TR6 question References: Ira, did you buy it? On Fri, Dec 30, 2016 at 8:59 PM, i erbs wrote: > Any TR6 experts out there? I'm going to look at 1976 one owner car with > the following description: > great project, was sitting for 10 years, always garaged, body straight, > new starter, engine turns over. > Hello, Some assembly required, motor turns over, new battery, new starter, > dash needs assembly, surface rust only, original paint, body straight, one > owner. > > > These are the photos I have. > What should I look for? He is Asking $6K > Thanks > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Sun Jan 1 14:47:14 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2017 16:47:14 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] first drive of 2017 All, Did anyone get their Healey out today? I drove our tri-carb around town for a bit after repairing the parking brake handle. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php From YNOTINK at msn.com Sun Jan 1 16:20:32 2017 From: YNOTINK at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2017 23:20:32 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Draught Excluder for BN7 References: <15956dac32d-482d-2aa5d@webprd-m51.mail.aol.com>, Check with Heritage Upholstery. BASJAG @telus.net. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of HealeyRick Sent: Sunday, January 1, 2017 7:41:07 PM To: editorgary at aol.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Draught Excluder for BN7 IMHO, the only one worth a damn is Britstleflex. It comes in Navy and will stay on, unlike the other repros I've dealt with. Forget trying to order online, you'll have to keep calling until you get Martin on the phone and you still may have a wait to get your stuff, but it will be worth it. Happy New Year! Rick Neville The rubber bulb seal on the draught excluder around the driver side door opening on my BN7 (restored in 1993) is starting to rip, so I'd like to replace it. The kicker is that the car is blue, and the fuzzy cloth part of the seal is blue -- I remember that for a long while the only replacement version was just black material. Does anyone know if the draught excluder is available from any source in dark blue? Thanks gary Gary Anderson Registrar, AHCR *************************************** _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey100m at me.com Sun Jan 1 17:15:53 2017 From: healey100m at me.com (Randall Hicks) Date: Sun, 01 Jan 2017 19:15:53 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] first drive of 2017 References: <586978E2.5030300@earthlink.net> Yes, New Year's Brunch in the BJ8. 68 degrees and very pleasant! ? Randy Skidaway Island Savannah, GA > On Jan 1, 2017, at 4:47 PM, Bob Haskell wrote: > > All, > > Did anyone get their Healey out today? I drove our tri-carb around town for a bit after repairing the parking brake handle. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m at me.com > From tomfelts at windstream.net Sun Jan 1 17:18:37 2017 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2017 19:18:37 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] first drive of 2017 BUT---------where do you live?:) ---- Bob Haskell wrote: ============= All, Did anyone get their Healey out today? I drove our tri-carb around town for a bit after repairing the parking brake handle. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From phoenix722 at comcast.net Sun Jan 1 17:43:30 2017 From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike S) Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2017 16:43:30 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] first drive of 2017 References: <586978E2.5030300@earthlink.net> No but I got one in a couple of days ago. Last drive of 2016. A little nippy out with the top down. Mike Seattle On 1/1/2017 1:47 PM, Bob Haskell wrote: > All, > > Did anyone get their Healey out today? I drove our tri-carb around > town for a bit after repairing the parking brake handle. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/phoenix722 at comcast.net > > -- Mike MGTD (long gone) BN1 (long gone) BN2-100M (gone but in good hands) BJ8 From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sun Jan 1 18:10:53 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2017 17:10:53 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] first drive of 2017 References: <586978E2.5030300@earthlink.net> Snow and rain got in the way.... Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes Portland,OR On Jan 1, 2017 3:57 PM, "Bob Haskell" wrote: > All, > > Did anyone get their Healey out today? I drove our tri-carb around town > for a bit after repairing the parking brake handle. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sun Jan 1 20:18:52 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2017 19:18:52 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] first drive of 2017 References: <586978E2.5030300@earthlink.net> I bought a used smoothline hardtop and I'm waiting for the new seals and hold down clamps so I can drive it more days of the year. It has more headroom than my OEM hard top and a rear window :) Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Sun, Jan 1, 2017 at 5:10 PM, i erbs wrote: > Snow and rain got in the way.... > > Ira Erbs > 1959 100-6 > MKI engine and disc brakes > Portland,OR > > On Jan 1, 2017 3:57 PM, "Bob Haskell" wrote: > >> All, >> >> Did anyone get their Healey out today? I drove our tri-carb around town >> for a bit after repairing the parking brake handle. >> >> Cheers, >> >> Bob Haskell >> AHCA 3000 MkI registrar >> http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sun Jan 1 20:32:49 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2017 03:32:49 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] first drive of 2017 References: <586978E2.5030300@earthlink.net> Been raining for 3 days here in San Bernardino and we are in a drought!? Sure as hell not going out at midnight last night.? Sounded like Afghanistan.? My daughter asked if it was fireworks.? I told her "some of was".Mike MacLeanSan Bernadino On Sunday, January 1, 2017 7:14 PM, i erbs wrote: Snow and rain got in the way.... Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes Portland,OR On Jan 1, 2017 3:57 PM, "Bob Haskell" wrote: All, Did anyone get their Healey out today?? I drove our tri-carb around town for a bit after repairing the parking brake handle. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_ 3000mk1.php ______________________________ _________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/ listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Mon Jan 2 03:45:53 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2017 05:45:53 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] first drive of 2017 References: <20170101191837.OEN3R.28215.root@pamxwww09-z01> Tom, Indianapolis, temperature was in the 40s. Hardtop on, side curtains in the boot. Today's forecast is 50s with rain. Suppose to drop to the 20s later in the week. Guess it's time to install the snow tires on the MINI. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 01/01/2017 07:18 PM, Tom Felts wrote: > BUT---------where do you live?:) > > > ---- Bob Haskell wrote: > > ============= > All, > > Did anyone get their Healey out today? I drove our tri-carb around town > for a bit after repairing the parking brake handle. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net > > > From shepard7107 at verizon.net Mon Jan 2 07:49:55 2017 From: shepard7107 at verizon.net (Michael Shepard) Date: Mon, 02 Jan 2017 08:49:55 -0600 (CST) Subject: [Healeys] first drive of 2017 An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_20170101_140619194.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2769484 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Mon Jan 2 08:04:56 2017 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2017 10:04:56 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] first drive of 2017 References: <586978E2.5030300@earthlink.net> <0893876E-6996-4F21-8949-92678AB2BF46@me.com> Sure ain't gonna happen around here!!! [image: Inline image 1] Roll on spring!! Michael S BN1 #174 On Sun, Jan 1, 2017 at 7:15 PM, Randall Hicks wrote: > Yes, New Year's Brunch in the BJ8. > > 68 degrees and very pleasant! ? > > Randy > Skidaway Island > Savannah, GA > > > On Jan 1, 2017, at 4:47 PM, Bob Haskell wrote: > > > > All, > > > > Did anyone get their Healey out today? I drove our tri-carb around town > for a bit after repairing the parking brake handle. > > > > Cheers, > > > > Bob Haskell > > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healey100m at me.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -- *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 4970280 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Mon Jan 2 09:35:51 2017 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2017 11:35:51 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Shelley Jack In going through a parts bin I found an LJ225 Shelley Jack that is supposedly correct for most 300's up until the later cars. I was quite surprised to see that it has a rather high value and here are some of the prices paid in the UK in 2016: ?149.74 paid on USA Ebay 7 February 2016 - no handle ?231.50 paid on UK Ebay 23 March 2016 - no handle ?119.46 paid on USA Ebay 1 May 2016 - no handle ?155.00 paid on UK Ebay 18 June 2016 - no handle ?385.00 paid on UK Ebay 26 June 2016 - no handle ?193.42 paid on USA Ebay 11 September 2016 - no handle ?52.51 paid on UK Ebay 2 October 2016 - no handle ?174.89 paid on UK Ebay 18 November 2016 - no handle ?79.00 paid on UK Ebay 28 November 2016 - with handle The jack is in perfect shape with some surface corrosion on the unpainted surfaces. I did not see a handle for the jack though it might be in another bin. In any case before I put the jack on ebay I thought I would offer it up to the list. Please reply to me directly offlist. Best--Michael Oritt -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Mon Jan 2 09:38:31 2017 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2017 11:38:31 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] first drive of 2017 References: <21972471.3524650.1483368595189.JavaMail.root@vznit170116.mailsrvcs.net> Michael-- I am about 1-1/2 hours south of you in Solomons and it is raining! In any case I am awaiting some green spray paint from Moss so I can put a new water pump in my 100 and hopefully get some driving in before they start to salt the roads. Best--Michael Oritt On Mon, Jan 2, 2017 at 9:49 AM, Michael Shepard wrote: > High 40s and sunny here in Baltimore. No top on my car but but not too > cold with the right clothing. Had to give her a wash too! > > Michael > 67 BJ8 > > > On 01/01/17, Randall Hicks wrote: > > Yes, New Year's Brunch in the BJ8. > > 68 degrees and very pleasant! ???? > > Randy > Skidaway Island > Savannah, GA > > > On Jan 1, 2017, at 4:47 PM, Bob Haskell wrote: > > > > All, > > > > Did anyone get their Healey out today? I drove our tri-carb around town > for a bit after repairing the parking brake handle. > > > > Cheers, > > > > Bob Haskell > > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healey100m at me.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/shepard7107 at verizon.net > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From shepard7107 at verizon.net Mon Jan 2 10:00:27 2017 From: shepard7107 at verizon.net (Michael Shepard) Date: Mon, 02 Jan 2017 11:00:27 -0600 (CST) Subject: [Healeys] first drive of 2017 An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Mon Jan 2 11:07:37 2017 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2017 13:07:37 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] first drive of 2017 References: <586978E2.5030300@earthlink.net> <0893876E-6996-4F21-8949-92678AB2BF46@me.com> Michael-- I hope you can take some solace in knowing that the water pump pulley you recently sent me will be enjoying relatively mild mid-Atlantic weather. Best--Michael Oritt On Mon, Jan 2, 2017 at 10:04 AM, Michael Salter wrote: > Sure ain't gonna happen around here!!! > [image: Inline image 1] > Roll on spring!! > Michael S > BN1 #174 > > On Sun, Jan 1, 2017 at 7:15 PM, Randall Hicks wrote: > >> Yes, New Year's Brunch in the BJ8. >> >> 68 degrees and very pleasant! ? >> >> Randy >> Skidaway Island >> Savannah, GA >> >> > On Jan 1, 2017, at 4:47 PM, Bob Haskell >> wrote: >> > >> > All, >> > >> > Did anyone get their Healey out today? I drove our tri-carb around >> town for a bit after repairing the parking brake handle. >> > >> > Cheers, >> > >> > Bob Haskell >> > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar >> > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php >> > _______________________________________________ >> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> > Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> > >> > Healeys at autox.team.net >> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> > >> > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/healey100m at me.com >> > >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >> >> > > > -- > *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.* > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 4970280 bytes Desc: not available URL: From nmcd10 at gmail.com Mon Jan 2 11:56:57 2017 From: nmcd10 at gmail.com (Neil McDonald) Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2017 18:56:57 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive One of my New Years resolutions, before I put the car back on the road after sitting in the garage for several years, is to fix the overdrive so the car is comfortable highway driving. It once (and once only) went into OD once very briefly - which suggests that nothing mechanical is broken. So far I have persuaded myself that the OD electrics are fine and there is adequate hydraulic pressure - around 390 psi if I recall correctly. I have also checked the hydraulic valve adjustment using the "drill through the actuating lever" method but not the direct "is the valve ball lifting by at least 1/32 inch when the solenoid is actuated?" method. Somewhere I read that there is a small passage around the hydraulic valve area which can get blocked and thus needs cleaning out with a wire. Is there an internet link elaborating on this? Online research also suggests that I should change out the OD fluid which is certainly old and a significant amount could have leaked out. I assume that the gear box has a drain and filler plug but have yet to find them. Should I refill to just short of overflowing or ......? I don't have the resources to pull and strip the OD myself so am hoping that I can get it working without hiring a professional. Does anyone have any words of wisdom and/or comfort? _____________________ Neil McDonald Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Jan 2 12:01:48 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2017 11:01:48 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] first drive of 2017 References: <21972471.3524650.1483368595189.JavaMail.root@vznit170116.mailsrvcs.net> Very nice! Original, or restored? On 1/2/2017 6:49 AM, Michael Shepard wrote: > High 40s and sunny here in Baltimore. No top on my car but but not > too cold with the right clothing. Had to give her a wash too! > > Michael > 67 BJ8 > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Mon Jan 2 14:09:41 2017 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2017 16:09:41 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive References: Hi Neil, I would definitely recommend the* "is the valve ball lifting by at least 1/32 inch when the solenoid is actuated?" method.".*... that is critical. If you have the 390 p.s.i. and it operated once I would suggest adjusting the solenoid CAREFULLY it is easy to cook the solenoid if you do it wrong. Michael S BN1 #174 On Mon, Jan 2, 2017 at 1:56 PM, Neil McDonald wrote: > One of my New Years resolutions, before I put the car back on the road > after sitting in the garage for several years, is to fix the overdrive so > the car is comfortable highway driving. It once (and once only) went into > OD once very briefly - which suggests that nothing mechanical is broken. > > So far I have persuaded myself that the OD electrics are fine and there is > adequate hydraulic pressure - around 390 psi if I recall correctly. I have > also checked the hydraulic valve adjustment using the "drill through the > actuating lever" method but not the direct "is the valve ball lifting by at > least 1/32 inch when the solenoid is actuated?" method. > > Somewhere I read that there is a small passage around the hydraulic valve > area which can get blocked and thus needs cleaning out with a wire. Is > there an internet link elaborating on this? > > Online research also suggests that I should change out the OD fluid which > is certainly old and a significant amount could have leaked out. I assume > that the gear box has a drain and filler plug but have yet to find them. > Should I refill to just short of overflowing or ......? > > I don't have the resources to pull and strip the OD myself so am hoping > that I can get it working without hiring a professional. Does anyone have > any words of wisdom and/or comfort? > _____________________ > Neil McDonald > > Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -- *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Jan 2 14:11:48 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2017 13:11:48 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive References: The OD and gearbox share fluid supply. Take the car out for a run to get the fluid warmed-up, then get it up on a rack--preferably--or SAFELY on jackstands, as high as they'll go. There is a dipstick on top of the gearbox; check your fluid level before emptying--if it's low that could be at least part of your problem. There is a drain plug on the bottom left side of the gearbox, and a big brass disk on the OD. Older cars had a sensible square 'nut' on the OD plug, which can be turned with a big crescent wrench, and newer ones have a notched disk that requires a tool to be undone properly, but you can use a brass punch and hammer or other method. When you drop the brass plug, there should be a cup-shaped screen and, possibly, a couple of soft, circular magnets. Let the fluid drain completely, then re-install the gearbox and OD plugs, being sure to a) place the magnets inside the plug and b) place the screen on top of the magnets. It's difficult to stop leakage from the OD plug; use a new fiber washer and, possibly, some teflon tape on the threads of the plug (being careful to not get any inside the OD). Top off with the fluid of your choice--'book' is 30W non-detergent, but most motor (20W-50) and synthetic gearbox oils work well--checking the level often with the dipstick. Should take about 3.75 quarts. Don't know how you 'persuaded myself that the OD electrics are fine,' but my money's on the electrics--esp. the relay. Bob On 1/2/2017 10:56 AM, Neil McDonald wrote: > One of my New Years resolutions, before I put the car back on the road after sitting in the garage for several years, is to fix the overdrive so the car is comfortable highway driving. It once (and once only) went into OD once very briefly - which suggests that nothing mechanical is broken. > > So far I have persuaded myself that the OD electrics are fine and there is adequate hydraulic pressure - around 390 psi if I recall correctly. I have also checked the hydraulic valve adjustment using the "drill through the actuating lever" method but not the direct "is the valve ball lifting by at least 1/32 inch when the solenoid is actuated?" method. > > Somewhere I read that there is a small passage around the hydraulic valve area which can get blocked and thus needs cleaning out with a wire. Is there an internet link elaborating on this? > > Online research also suggests that I should change out the OD fluid which is certainly old and a significant amount could have leaked out. I assume that the gear box has a drain and filler plug but have yet to find them. Should I refill to just short of overflowing or ......? > > I don't have the resources to pull and strip the OD myself so am hoping that I can get it working without hiring a professional. Does anyone have any words of wisdom and/or comfort? > _____________________ > Neil McDonald > > Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com > > > From nmcd10 at gmail.com Mon Jan 2 16:08:15 2017 From: nmcd10 at gmail.com (Neil McDonald) Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2017 23:08:15 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive References: Thanks for the replies so far. Pleased that nobody yet is suggesting OD internal mechanical problems. What about cleaning out the mysterious oil passage that might be blocked? I concluded that electrics are OK because the solenoid is brand new and moves and holds the hydraulic valve actuating lever when called upon. _____________________ Neil McDonald Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com > On 2 Jan 2017, at 21:11, Bob Spidell wrote: > > The OD and gearbox share fluid supply. Take the car out for a run to get the fluid warmed-up, then get it up on a rack--preferably--or SAFELY on jackstands, as high as they'll go. There is a dipstick on top of the gearbox; check your fluid level before emptying--if it's low that could be at least part of your problem. There is a drain plug on the bottom left side of the gearbox, and a big brass disk on the OD. Older cars had a sensible square 'nut' on the OD plug, which can be turned with a big crescent wrench, and newer ones have a notched disk that requires a tool to be undone properly, but you can use a brass punch and hammer or other method. When you drop the brass plug, there should be a cup-shaped screen and, possibly, a couple of soft, circular magnets. > > Let the fluid drain completely, then re-install the gearbox and OD plugs, being sure to a) place the magnets inside the plug and b) place the screen on top of the magnets. It's difficult to stop leakage from the OD plug; use a new fiber washer and, possibly, some teflon tape on the threads of the plug (being careful to not get any inside the OD). Top off with the fluid of your choice--'book' is 30W non-detergent, but most motor (20W-50) and synthetic gearbox oils work well--checking the level often with the dipstick. Should take about 3.75 quarts. > > Don't know how you 'persuaded myself that the OD electrics are fine,' but my money's on the electrics--esp. the relay. > > Bob > > >> On 1/2/2017 10:56 AM, Neil McDonald wrote: >> One of my New Years resolutions, before I put the car back on the road after sitting in the garage for several years, is to fix the overdrive so the car is comfortable highway driving. It once (and once only) went into OD once very briefly - which suggests that nothing mechanical is broken. >> >> So far I have persuaded myself that the OD electrics are fine and there is adequate hydraulic pressure - around 390 psi if I recall correctly. I have also checked the hydraulic valve adjustment using the "drill through the actuating lever" method but not the direct "is the valve ball lifting by at least 1/32 inch when the solenoid is actuated?" method. >> >> Somewhere I read that there is a small passage around the hydraulic valve area which can get blocked and thus needs cleaning out with a wire. Is there an internet link elaborating on this? >> >> Online research also suggests that I should change out the OD fluid which is certainly old and a significant amount could have leaked out. I assume that the gear box has a drain and filler plug but have yet to find them. Should I refill to just short of overflowing or ......? >> >> I don't have the resources to pull and strip the OD myself so am hoping that I can get it working without hiring a professional. Does anyone have any words of wisdom and/or comfort? >> _____________________ >> Neil McDonald >> >> Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com >> >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/nmcd10 at gmail.com > From YNOTINK at msn.com Mon Jan 2 16:31:14 2017 From: YNOTINK at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2017 23:31:14 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive References: , If the OD engages when cold, but disengages when it warms up your problem could be with leakage through the o-rings that seal the accumulator body to the housing. It's an easy fix, but removing the accumulator body is somewhat of a trick. I was advised to remove the side plate and the accumulator springs, place a dowel in the center of the accumulator piston to keep it from moving and apply air pressure through the actuator valve hole (after removing the valve and ball). The accumulator body is the large sleeve in which the accumulator piston resides. Bill Lawrence ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Bob Spidell Sent: Monday, January 2, 2017 9:11:48 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive The OD and gearbox share fluid supply. Take the car out for a run to get the fluid warmed-up, then get it up on a rack--preferably--or SAFELY on jackstands, as high as they'll go. There is a dipstick on top of the gearbox; check your fluid level before emptying--if it's low that could be at least part of your problem. There is a drain plug on the bottom left side of the gearbox, and a big brass disk on the OD. Older cars had a sensible square 'nut' on the OD plug, which can be turned with a big crescent wrench, and newer ones have a notched disk that requires a tool to be undone properly, but you can use a brass punch and hammer or other method. When you drop the brass plug, there should be a cup-shaped screen and, possibly, a couple of soft, circular magnets. Let the fluid drain completely, then re-install the gearbox and OD plugs, being sure to a) place the magnets inside the plug and b) place the screen on top of the magnets. It's difficult to stop leakage from the OD plug; use a new fiber washer and, possibly, some teflon tape on the threads of the plug (being careful to not get any inside the OD). Top off with the fluid of your choice--'book' is 30W non-detergent, but most motor (20W-50) and synthetic gearbox oils work well--checking the level often with the dipstick. Should take about 3.75 quarts. Don't know how you 'persuaded myself that the OD electrics are fine,' but my money's on the electrics--esp. the relay. Bob On 1/2/2017 10:56 AM, Neil McDonald wrote: > One of my New Years resolutions, before I put the car back on the road after sitting in the garage for several years, is to fix the overdrive so the car is comfortable highway driving. It once (and once only) went into OD once very briefly - which suggests that nothing mechanical is broken. > > So far I have persuaded myself that the OD electrics are fine and there is adequate hydraulic pressure - around 390 psi if I recall correctly. I have also checked the hydraulic valve adjustment using the "drill through the actuating lever" method but not the direct "is the valve ball lifting by at least 1/32 inch when the solenoid is actuated?" method. > > Somewhere I read that there is a small passage around the hydraulic valve area which can get blocked and thus needs cleaning out with a wire. Is there an internet link elaborating on this? > > Online research also suggests that I should change out the OD fluid which is certainly old and a significant amount could have leaked out. I assume that the gear box has a drain and filler plug but have yet to find them. Should I refill to just short of overflowing or ......? > > I don't have the resources to pull and strip the OD myself so am hoping that I can get it working without hiring a professional. Does anyone have any words of wisdom and/or comfort? > _____________________ > Neil McDonald > > Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From 050.rpl at gmail.com Mon Jan 2 16:57:35 2017 From: 050.rpl at gmail.com (R. Lindsay) Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2017 18:57:35 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive References: I have had this issue. Looked at electrics and all OK. I cleaned out the passage/ ball valve and the OD has worked fine for 25+ years. Price Lindsay Cell: 630-841-6300 Email: 050.rpl at gmail.com Sent from my iPhone > On Jan 2, 2017, at 6:08 PM, Neil McDonald wrote: > > Thanks for the replies so far. Pleased that nobody yet is suggesting OD internal mechanical problems. What about cleaning out the mysterious oil passage that might be blocked? > > I concluded that electrics are OK because the solenoid is brand new and moves and holds the hydraulic valve actuating lever when called upon. > _____________________ > Neil McDonald > > Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com > > >> On 2 Jan 2017, at 21:11, Bob Spidell wrote: >> >> The OD and gearbox share fluid supply. Take the car out for a run to get the fluid warmed-up, then get it up on a rack--preferably--or SAFELY on jackstands, as high as they'll go. There is a dipstick on top of the gearbox; check your fluid level before emptying--if it's low that could be at least part of your problem. There is a drain plug on the bottom left side of the gearbox, and a big brass disk on the OD. Older cars had a sensible square 'nut' on the OD plug, which can be turned with a big crescent wrench, and newer ones have a notched disk that requires a tool to be undone properly, but you can use a brass punch and hammer or other method. When you drop the brass plug, there should be a cup-shaped screen and, possibly, a couple of soft, circular magnets. >> >> Let the fluid drain completely, then re-install the gearbox and OD plugs, being sure to a) place the magnets inside the plug and b) place the screen on top of the magnets. It's difficult to stop leakage from the OD plug; use a new fiber washer and, possibly, some teflon tape on the threads of the plug (being careful to not get any inside the OD). Top off with the fluid of your choice--'book' is 30W non-detergent, but most motor (20W-50) and synthetic gearbox oils work well--checking the level often with the dipstick. Should take about 3.75 quarts. >> >> Don't know how you 'persuaded myself that the OD electrics are fine,' but my money's on the electrics--esp. the relay. >> >> Bob >> >> >>> On 1/2/2017 10:56 AM, Neil McDonald wrote: >>> One of my New Years resolutions, before I put the car back on the road after sitting in the garage for several years, is to fix the overdrive so the car is comfortable highway driving. It once (and once only) went into OD once very briefly - which suggests that nothing mechanical is broken. >>> >>> So far I have persuaded myself that the OD electrics are fine and there is adequate hydraulic pressure - around 390 psi if I recall correctly. I have also checked the hydraulic valve adjustment using the "drill through the actuating lever" method but not the direct "is the valve ball lifting by at least 1/32 inch when the solenoid is actuated?" method. >>> >>> Somewhere I read that there is a small passage around the hydraulic valve area which can get blocked and thus needs cleaning out with a wire. Is there an internet link elaborating on this? >>> >>> Online research also suggests that I should change out the OD fluid which is certainly old and a significant amount could have leaked out. I assume that the gear box has a drain and filler plug but have yet to find them. Should I refill to just short of overflowing or ......? >>> >>> I don't have the resources to pull and strip the OD myself so am hoping that I can get it working without hiring a professional. Does anyone have any words of wisdom and/or comfort? >>> _____________________ >>> Neil McDonald >>> >>> Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com >>> >>> >>> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/nmcd10 at gmail.com >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/050.rpl at gmail.com > From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Mon Jan 2 17:10:21 2017 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2017 16:10:21 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive References: The oil bypass in the operating rod will not cause you this problem. If it is plugged the overdrive will be slow to disengage. Like Mike said the most likely problem is the adjustment of the solenoid. You probably are not raising the check ball on the operating rod the correct 1/32 or .0312. If the ball is not raised correctly insufficent oil will be sent into the system and the overdrive will be slow to engage. The next place that could cause the problem is if the seat for the check valve on the side of the pump is bad you will be slow to build pressure and when you operate the overdrive the system will be slow to recover the pressure. ALso check that the check balls are in there correct location. It is easy to switch the check balls. David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com -----Original Message----- From: Neil McDonald Sent: Monday, January 02, 2017 3:08 PM To: Bob Spidell Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive Thanks for the replies so far. Pleased that nobody yet is suggesting OD internal mechanical problems. What about cleaning out the mysterious oil passage that might be blocked? I concluded that electrics are OK because the solenoid is brand new and moves and holds the hydraulic valve actuating lever when called upon. _____________________ Neil McDonald Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com > On 2 Jan 2017, at 21:11, Bob Spidell wrote: > > The OD and gearbox share fluid supply. Take the car out for a run to get > the fluid warmed-up, then get it up on a rack--preferably--or SAFELY on > jackstands, as high as they'll go. There is a dipstick on top of the > gearbox; check your fluid level before emptying--if it's low that could be > at least part of your problem. There is a drain plug on the bottom left > side of the gearbox, and a big brass disk on the OD. Older cars had a > sensible square 'nut' on the OD plug, which can be turned with a big > crescent wrench, and newer ones have a notched disk that requires a tool > to be undone properly, but you can use a brass punch and hammer or other > method. When you drop the brass plug, there should be a cup-shaped screen > and, possibly, a couple of soft, circular magnets. > > Let the fluid drain completely, then re-install the gearbox and OD plugs, > being sure to a) place the magnets inside the plug and b) place the screen > on top of the magnets. It's difficult to stop leakage from the OD plug; > use a new fiber washer and, possibly, some teflon tape on the threads of > the plug (being careful to not get any inside the OD). Top off with the > fluid of your choice--'book' is 30W non-detergent, but most motor (20W-50) > and synthetic gearbox oils work well--checking the level often with the > dipstick. Should take about 3.75 quarts. > > Don't know how you 'persuaded myself that the OD electrics are fine,' but > my money's on the electrics--esp. the relay. > > Bob > > >> On 1/2/2017 10:56 AM, Neil McDonald wrote: >> One of my New Years resolutions, before I put the car back on the road >> after sitting in the garage for several years, is to fix the overdrive so >> the car is comfortable highway driving. It once (and once only) went into >> OD once very briefly - which suggests that nothing mechanical is broken. >> >> So far I have persuaded myself that the OD electrics are fine and there >> is adequate hydraulic pressure - around 390 psi if I recall correctly. I >> have also checked the hydraulic valve adjustment using the "drill through >> the actuating lever" method but not the direct "is the valve ball lifting >> by at least 1/32 inch when the solenoid is actuated?" method. >> >> Somewhere I read that there is a small passage around the hydraulic valve >> area which can get blocked and thus needs cleaning out with a wire. Is >> there an internet link elaborating on this? >> >> Online research also suggests that I should change out the OD fluid which >> is certainly old and a significant amount could have leaked out. I assume >> that the gear box has a drain and filler plug but have yet to find them. >> Should I refill to just short of overflowing or ......? >> >> I don't have the resources to pull and strip the OD myself so am hoping >> that I can get it working without hiring a professional. Does anyone have >> any words of wisdom and/or comfort? >> _____________________ >> Neil McDonald >> >> Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com >> >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/nmcd10 at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From nmcd10 at gmail.com Mon Jan 2 17:39:11 2017 From: nmcd10 at gmail.com (Neil McDonald) Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2017 00:39:11 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive References: By referencing the check valve on the side of the pump, David Nock has taken me into new and uncharted territory! I assume this valve is totally different from the ball lifted by the OD actuating lever? The mystery deepens with the reference to multiple balls and the need to ensure that they are in the right way. More help on this please. _____________________ Neil McDonald Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com > On 2 Jan 2017, at 23:31, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > > If the OD engages when cold, but disengages when it warms up your problem could be with leakage through the o-rings that seal the accumulator body to the housing. It's an easy fix, but removing the accumulator body is somewhat of a trick. I was advised to remove the side plate and the accumulator springs, place a dowel in the center of the accumulator piston to keep it from moving and apply air pressure through the actuator valve hole (after removing the valve and ball). The accumulator body is the large sleeve in which the accumulator piston resides. > > > Bill Lawrence > > From: Healeys on behalf of Bob Spidell > Sent: Monday, January 2, 2017 9:11:48 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive > > The OD and gearbox share fluid supply. Take the car out for a run to > get the fluid warmed-up, then get it up on a rack--preferably--or SAFELY > on jackstands, as high as they'll go. There is a dipstick on top of the > gearbox; check your fluid level before emptying--if it's low that could > be at least part of your problem. There is a drain plug on the bottom > left side of the gearbox, and a big brass disk on the OD. Older cars > had a sensible square 'nut' on the OD plug, which can be turned with a > big crescent wrench, and newer ones have a notched disk that requires a > tool to be undone properly, but you can use a brass punch and hammer or > other method. When you drop the brass plug, there should be a > cup-shaped screen and, possibly, a couple of soft, circular magnets. > > Let the fluid drain completely, then re-install the gearbox and OD > plugs, being sure to a) place the magnets inside the plug and b) place > the screen on top of the magnets. It's difficult to stop leakage from > the OD plug; use a new fiber washer and, possibly, some teflon tape on > the threads of the plug (being careful to not get any inside the OD). > Top off with the fluid of your choice--'book' is 30W non-detergent, but > most motor (20W-50) and synthetic gearbox oils work well--checking the > level often with the dipstick. Should take about 3.75 quarts. > > Don't know how you 'persuaded myself that the OD electrics are fine,' > but my money's on the electrics--esp. the relay. > > Bob > > > On 1/2/2017 10:56 AM, Neil McDonald wrote: > > One of my New Years resolutions, before I put the car back on the road after sitting in the garage for several years, is to fix the overdrive so the car is comfortable highway driving. It once (and once only) went into OD once very briefly - which suggests that nothing mechanical is broken. > > > > So far I have persuaded myself that the OD electrics are fine and there is adequate hydraulic pressure - around 390 psi if I recall correctly. I have also checked the hydraulic valve adjustment using the "drill through the actuating lever" method but not the direct "is the valve ball lifting by at least 1/32 inch when the solenoid is actuated?" method. > > > > Somewhere I read that there is a small passage around the hydraulic valve area which can get blocked and thus needs cleaning out with a wire. Is there an internet link elaborating on this? > > > > Online research also suggests that I should change out the OD fluid which is certainly old and a significant amount could have leaked out. I assume that the gear box has a drain and filler plug but have yet to find them. Should I refill to just short of overflowing or ......? > > > > I don't have the resources to pull and strip the OD myself so am hoping that I can get it working without hiring a professional. Does anyone have any words of wisdom and/or comfort? > > _____________________ > > Neil McDonald > > > > Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/nmcd10 at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From austinhealeyslist at gmail.com Mon Jan 2 18:15:01 2017 From: austinhealeyslist at gmail.com (Austin Healeys List) Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2017 14:15:01 +1300 Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive References: Why not run it on axle stands with the transmission cover off, then you can manually shift the lever. There is a distinct resistance at the point right before the ball lifts off its seat caused by the pressure acting on the ball which you won't feel when stationary. A weak solenoid that appears to work when stopped may not overcome this extra resistance. If there is no resistance point then there is likely no pressure. The Buckeye Triumph website has a very good writeup of OD issues. I don't believe there is any passage in the OD that can be cleaned out with a wire. Andy. On 1/3/17, Neil McDonald wrote: > One of my New Years resolutions, before I put the car back on the road after > sitting in the garage for several years, is to fix the overdrive so the car > is comfortable highway driving. It once (and once only) went into OD once > very briefly - which suggests that nothing mechanical is broken. > > So far I have persuaded myself that the OD electrics are fine and there is > adequate hydraulic pressure - around 390 psi if I recall correctly. I have > also checked the hydraulic valve adjustment using the "drill through the > actuating lever" method but not the direct "is the valve ball lifting by at > least 1/32 inch when the solenoid is actuated?" method. > > Somewhere I read that there is a small passage around the hydraulic valve > area which can get blocked and thus needs cleaning out with a wire. Is there > an internet link elaborating on this? > > Online research also suggests that I should change out the OD fluid which is > certainly old and a significant amount could have leaked out. I assume that > the gear box has a drain and filler plug but have yet to find them. Should I > refill to just short of overflowing or ......? > > I don't have the resources to pull and strip the OD myself so am hoping that > I can get it working without hiring a professional. Does anyone have any > words of wisdom and/or comfort? > _____________________ > Neil McDonald > > Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com > From jstmorris at yahoo.com Mon Jan 2 18:38:42 2017 From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris) Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2017 01:38:42 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive References: Good Day Neil and welcome to 2017The attached OD Trouble Shooting Flow Chart may be of some help in figuring out what the problem is.Good Luck --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives On Monday, January 2, 2017 3:34 PM, Neil McDonald wrote: One of my New Years resolutions, before I put the car back on the road after sitting in the garage for several years, is to fix the overdrive so the car is comfortable highway driving. It once (and once only) went into OD once very briefly - which suggests that nothing mechanical is broken. So far I have persuaded myself that the OD electrics are fine and there is adequate hydraulic pressure - around 390 psi if I recall correctly. I have also checked the hydraulic valve adjustment using the "drill through the actuating lever" method but not the direct "is the valve ball lifting by at least 1/32 inch when the solenoid is actuated?" method. Somewhere I read that there is a small passage around the hydraulic valve area which can get blocked and thus needs cleaning out with a wire. Is there an internet link elaborating on this? Online research also suggests that I should change out the OD fluid which is certainly old and a significant amount could have leaked out. I assume that the gear box has a drain and filler plug but have yet to find them. Should I refill to just short of overflowing or ......? I don't have the resources to pull and strip the OD myself so am hoping that I can get it working without hiring a professional. Does anyone have any words of wisdom and/or comfort? _____________________ Neil McDonald Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Trouble Shooting-Flow Chart.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 541979 bytes Desc: not available URL: From shepard7107 at verizon.net Mon Jan 2 19:08:03 2017 From: shepard7107 at verizon.net (Michael Shepard) Date: Mon, 02 Jan 2017 20:08:03 -0600 (CST) Subject: [Healeys] first drive of 2017 An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Mon Jan 2 20:51:20 2017 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=) Date: Mon, 02 Jan 2017 19:51:20 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?first_drive_of_2017?= since my healey is my daily driver i had to make a store run yesterday in our cold(by our standards) 45 degree wx. put a new top on this summer and have been driving around with it up to make sure it is tight and does not pull anywhere from the cold. normal day for me. From larry at patersondesign.ca Mon Jan 2 21:59:12 2017 From: larry at patersondesign.ca (Larry Paterson) Date: Mon, 02 Jan 2017 21:59:12 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] (no subject) An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.salter at gmail.com Tue Jan 3 07:03:14 2017 From: michael.salter at gmail.com (michael.salter at gmail.com) Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2017 14:03:14 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive References: Yes Neil, David is referring to the pump non return valve however if you are able to confirm that you have 390 p.s.i. in the overdrive that valve is not in need of checking. Michael S BN1 #174 Correct diagnosis is half of the repair. On Mon, Jan 2, 2017 at 9:02 PM -0500, "Neil McDonald" wrote: By referencing the check valve on the side of the pump, David Nock has taken me into new and uncharted territory!? I assume this valve is totally different from the ball lifted by the OD actuating lever? The mystery deepens with the reference to multiple balls and the need to ensure that they are in the right way. More help on this please._____________________Neil McDonald Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com On 2 Jan 2017, at 23:31, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: If the OD engages when cold, but disengages when it warms up your problem could be with leakage through the o-rings that seal the accumulator body to the housing. It's an easy fix, but removing the accumulator body is somewhat of a trick. I was advised to remove the side plate and the accumulator springs, place a dowel in the center of the accumulator piston to keep it from moving and apply air pressure through the actuator valve hole (after removing the valve and ball). The accumulator body is the large sleeve in which the accumulator piston resides. Bill Lawrence From: Healeys on behalf of Bob Spidell Sent: Monday, January 2, 2017 9:11:48 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive ? The OD and gearbox share fluid supply.? Take the car out for a run to get the fluid warmed-up, then get it up on a rack--preferably--or SAFELY on jackstands, as high as they'll go. There is a dipstick on top of the gearbox; check your fluid level before emptying--if it's low that could be at least part of your problem.? There is a drain plug on the bottom left side of the gearbox, and a big brass disk on the OD.? Older cars had a sensible square 'nut' on the OD plug, which can be turned with a big crescent wrench, and newer ones have a notched disk that requires a tool to be undone properly, but you can use a brass punch and hammer or other method.? When you drop the brass plug, there should be a cup-shaped screen and, possibly, a couple of soft, circular magnets. Let the fluid drain completely, then re-install the gearbox and OD plugs, being sure to a) place the magnets inside the plug and b) place the screen on top of the magnets.? It's difficult to stop leakage from the OD plug; use a new fiber washer and, possibly, some teflon tape on the threads of the plug (being careful to not get any inside the OD).? Top off with the fluid of your choice--'book' is 30W non-detergent, but most motor (20W-50) and synthetic gearbox oils work well--checking the level often with the dipstick.? Should take about 3.75 quarts. Don't know how you 'persuaded myself that the OD electrics are fine,' but my money's on the electrics--esp. the relay. Bob On 1/2/2017 10:56 AM, Neil McDonald wrote: > One of my New Years resolutions, before I put the car back on the road after sitting in the garage for several years, is to fix the overdrive so the car is comfortable highway driving. It once (and once only) went into OD once very briefly - which suggests that nothing mechanical is broken. > > So far I have persuaded myself that the OD electrics are fine and there is adequate hydraulic pressure - around 390 psi if I recall correctly. I have also checked the hydraulic valve adjustment using the "drill through the actuating lever" method but not the direct "is the valve ball lifting by at least 1/32 inch when the solenoid is actuated?" method. > > Somewhere I read that there is a small passage around the hydraulic valve area which can get blocked and thus needs cleaning out with a wire. Is there an internet link elaborating on this? > > Online research also suggests that I should change out the OD fluid which is certainly old and a significant amount could have leaked out. I assume that the gear box has a drain and filler plug but have yet to find them. Should I refill to just short of overflowing or ......? > > I don't have the resources to pull and strip the OD myself so am hoping that I can get it working without hiring a professional. Does anyone have any words of wisdom and/or comfort? > _____________________ > Neil McDonald > > Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From nmcd10 at gmail.com Tue Jan 3 08:02:06 2017 From: nmcd10 at gmail.com (Neil McDonald) Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2017 15:02:06 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive References: <749F94B05E660FF2.07577162-f9ce-43fe-b0bc-96d17c26096a@mail.outlook.com> Wonderful feedback. Thanks everyone. I have concluded that the most likely cause of my problems are low OD fluid levels and/or inadequate opening of the actuating valve. Both I can readily deal with. Right now I am five thousand miles away from my Healey so it will be a couple of months before I can confirm a fix. _____________________ Neil McDonald Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com Sent from my IPhone > On Jan 3, 2017, at 2:03 PM, michael.salter at gmail.com wrote: > > Yes Neil, David is referring to the pump non return valve however if you are able to confirm that you have 390 p.s.i. in the overdrive that valve is not in need of checking. > Michael S > BN1 #174 > > Correct diagnosis is half of the repair. > > > > On Mon, Jan 2, 2017 at 9:02 PM -0500, "Neil McDonald" wrote: > >> By referencing the check valve on the side of the pump, David Nock has taken me into new and uncharted territory! >> >> I assume this valve is totally different from the ball lifted by the OD actuating lever? The mystery deepens with the reference to multiple balls and the need to ensure that they are in the right way. >> >> More help on this please. >> _____________________ >> Neil McDonald >> >> Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com >> >> >>> On 2 Jan 2017, at 23:31, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: >>> >>> If the OD engages when cold, but disengages when it warms up your problem could be with leakage through the o-rings that seal the accumulator body to the housing. It's an easy fix, but removing the accumulator body is somewhat of a trick. I was advised to remove the side plate and the accumulator springs, place a dowel in the center of the accumulator piston to keep it from moving and apply air pressure through the actuator valve hole (after removing the valve and ball). The accumulator body is the large sleeve in which the accumulator piston resides. >>> >>> >>> Bill Lawrence >>> >>> >>> From: Healeys on behalf of Bob Spidell >>> Sent: Monday, January 2, 2017 9:11:48 PM >>> To: healeys at autox.team.net >>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive >>> >>> The OD and gearbox share fluid supply. Take the car out for a run to >>> get the fluid warmed-up, then get it up on a rack--preferably--or SAFELY >>> on jackstands, as high as they'll go. There is a dipstick on top of the >>> gearbox; check your fluid level before emptying--if it's low that could >>> be at least part of your problem. There is a drain plug on the bottom >>> left side of the gearbox, and a big brass disk on the OD. Older cars >>> had a sensible square 'nut' on the OD plug, which can be turned with a >>> big crescent wrench, and newer ones have a notched disk that requires a >>> tool to be undone properly, but you can use a brass punch and hammer or >>> other method. When you drop the brass plug, there should be a >>> cup-shaped screen and, possibly, a couple of soft, circular magnets. >>> >>> Let the fluid drain completely, then re-install the gearbox and OD >>> plugs, being sure to a) place the magnets inside the plug and b) place >>> the screen on top of the magnets. It's difficult to stop leakage from >>> the OD plug; use a new fiber washer and, possibly, some teflon tape on >>> the threads of the plug (being careful to not get any inside the OD). >>> Top off with the fluid of your choice--'book' is 30W non-detergent, but >>> most motor (20W-50) and synthetic gearbox oils work well--checking the >>> level often with the dipstick. Should take about 3.75 quarts. >>> >>> Don't know how you 'persuaded myself that the OD electrics are fine,' >>> but my money's on the electrics--esp. the relay. >>> >>> Bob >>> >>> >>> On 1/2/2017 10:56 AM, Neil McDonald wrote: >>> > One of my New Years resolutions, before I put the car back on the road after sitting in the garage for several years, is to fix the overdrive so the car is comfortable highway driving. It once (and once only) went into OD once very briefly - which suggests that nothing mechanical is broken. >>> > >>> > So far I have persuaded myself that the OD electrics are fine and there is adequate hydraulic pressure - around 390 psi if I recall correctly. I have also checked the hydraulic valve adjustment using the "drill through the actuating lever" method but not the direct "is the valve ball lifting by at least 1/32 inch when the solenoid is actuated?" method. >>> > >>> > Somewhere I read that there is a small passage around the hydraulic valve area which can get blocked and thus needs cleaning out with a wire. Is there an internet link elaborating on this? >>> > >>> > Online research also suggests that I should change out the OD fluid which is certainly old and a significant amount could have leaked out. I assume that the gear box has a drain and filler plug but have yet to find them. Should I refill to just short of overflowing or ......? >>> > >>> > I don't have the resources to pull and strip the OD myself so am hoping that I can get it working without hiring a professional. Does anyone have any words of wisdom and/or comfort? >>> > _____________________ >>> > Neil McDonald >>> > >>> > Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/nmcd10 at gmail.com >>> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rick at ewilkins.com Tue Jan 3 09:48:07 2017 From: rick at ewilkins.com (Rick Wilkins) Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2017 08:48:07 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive References: <749F94B05E660FF2.07577162-f9ce-43fe-b0bc-96d17c26096a@mail.outlook.com> <93717BF2-8D4E-4526-A79D-DA71ED00FB19@gmail.com> I've found that one of the simplest, and easiest to miss is the starting point of the actuating lever. Make sure it has a rubber rest attached to the flange. If that lever is too low from start, it will always be hard to engage. Wilko On Jan 3, 2017, at 7:02 AM, Neil McDonald wrote: > Wonderful feedback. Thanks everyone. > > I have concluded that the most likely cause of my problems are low OD fluid levels and/or inadequate opening of the actuating valve. Both I can readily deal with. > > Right now I am five thousand miles away from my Healey so it will be a couple of months before I can confirm a fix. > _____________________ > Neil McDonald > > Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com > > Sent from my IPhone > > On Jan 3, 2017, at 2:03 PM, michael.salter at gmail.com wrote: > >> Yes Neil, David is referring to the pump non return valve however if you are able to confirm that you have 390 p.s.i. in the overdrive that valve is not in need of checking. >> Michael S >> BN1 #174 >> >> Correct diagnosis is half of the repair. >> >> >> >> On Mon, Jan 2, 2017 at 9:02 PM -0500, "Neil McDonald" wrote: >> >> By referencing the check valve on the side of the pump, David Nock has taken me into new and uncharted territory! >> >> I assume this valve is totally different from the ball lifted by the OD actuating lever? The mystery deepens with the reference to multiple balls and the need to ensure that they are in the right way. >> >> More help on this please. >> _____________________ >> Neil McDonald >> >> Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com >> >> >> On 2 Jan 2017, at 23:31, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: >> >>> If the OD engages when cold, but disengages when it warms up your problem could be with leakage through the o-rings that seal the accumulator body to the housing. It's an easy fix, but removing the accumulator body is somewhat of a trick. I was advised to remove the side plate and the accumulator springs, place a dowel in the center of the accumulator piston to keep it from moving and apply air pressure through the actuator valve hole (after removing the valve and ball). The accumulator body is the large sleeve in which the accumulator piston resides. >>> >>> >>> Bill Lawrence >>> >>> From: Healeys on behalf of Bob Spidell >>> Sent: Monday, January 2, 2017 9:11:48 PM >>> To: healeys at autox.team.net >>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive >>> >>> The OD and gearbox share fluid supply. Take the car out for a run to >>> get the fluid warmed-up, then get it up on a rack--preferably--or SAFELY >>> on jackstands, as high as they'll go. There is a dipstick on top of the >>> gearbox; check your fluid level before emptying--if it's low that could >>> be at least part of your problem. There is a drain plug on the bottom >>> left side of the gearbox, and a big brass disk on the OD. Older cars >>> had a sensible square 'nut' on the OD plug, which can be turned with a >>> big crescent wrench, and newer ones have a notched disk that requires a >>> tool to be undone properly, but you can use a brass punch and hammer or >>> other method. When you drop the brass plug, there should be a >>> cup-shaped screen and, possibly, a couple of soft, circular magnets. >>> >>> Let the fluid drain completely, then re-install the gearbox and OD >>> plugs, being sure to a) place the magnets inside the plug and b) place >>> the screen on top of the magnets. It's difficult to stop leakage from >>> the OD plug; use a new fiber washer and, possibly, some teflon tape on >>> the threads of the plug (being careful to not get any inside the OD). >>> Top off with the fluid of your choice--'book' is 30W non-detergent, but >>> most motor (20W-50) and synthetic gearbox oils work well--checking the >>> level often with the dipstick. Should take about 3.75 quarts. >>> >>> Don't know how you 'persuaded myself that the OD electrics are fine,' >>> but my money's on the electrics--esp. the relay. >>> >>> Bob >>> >>> >>> On 1/2/2017 10:56 AM, Neil McDonald wrote: >>> > One of my New Years resolutions, before I put the car back on the road after sitting in the garage for several years, is to fix the overdrive so the car is comfortable highway driving. It once (and once only) went into OD once very briefly - which suggests that nothing mechanical is broken. >>> > >>> > So far I have persuaded myself that the OD electrics are fine and there is adequate hydraulic pressure - around 390 psi if I recall correctly. I have also checked the hydraulic valve adjustment using the "drill through the actuating lever" method but not the direct "is the valve ball lifting by at least 1/32 inch when the solenoid is actuated?" method. >>> > >>> > Somewhere I read that there is a small passage around the hydraulic valve area which can get blocked and thus needs cleaning out with a wire. Is there an internet link elaborating on this? >>> > >>> > Online research also suggests that I should change out the OD fluid which is certainly old and a significant amount could have leaked out. I assume that the gear box has a drain and filler plug but have yet to find them. Should I refill to just short of overflowing or ......? >>> > >>> > I don't have the resources to pull and strip the OD myself so am hoping that I can get it working without hiring a professional. Does anyone have any words of wisdom and/or comfort? >>> > _____________________ >>> > Neil McDonald >>> > >>> > Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/nmcd10 at gmail.com >>> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rick at ewilkins.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Tue Jan 3 10:05:00 2017 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2017 12:05:00 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] If you are having trouble sleeping!!! New post on my blog about Austin Healey 100 crankshafts... ?M ?ichael S BN1 #174? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Jan 3 13:44:02 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2017 20:44:02 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] first drive of 2017 References: <20797541.3547571.1483409283918.JavaMail.root@vms170029.mailsrvcs.net> "Never restored." That explains the smooth, subtle curve on the bottom of the body between the front and rear wheel wells, tying the wings and rocker panels together. That is very difficult to get right, and even the best resto shops sometimes don't get it perfect (esp. with some of the repop parts). Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Shepard" To: bspidell at comcast.net, "healeys" Sent: Monday, January 2, 2017 6:08:03 PM Subject: Re: Re: [Healeys] first drive of 2017 Thanks for the compliment Bob. Never restored. I have had it since 1973, my second year at college. It shows well from 20 feet away! Has its share of ragged edges up close. Cant bring myself to tear out the original intearior but it needs it. On 01/02/17, Bob Spidell wrote: Very nice! Original, or restored? On 1/2/2017 6:49 AM, Michael Shepard wrote: High 40s and sunny here in Baltimore. No top on my car but but not too cold with the right clothing. Had to give her a wash too! Michael 67 BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From austinhealeyslist at gmail.com Tue Jan 3 14:23:24 2017 From: austinhealeyslist at gmail.com (Austin Healeys List) Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2017 10:23:24 +1300 Subject: [Healeys] If you are having trouble sleeping!!! References: Thanks for the interesting breakfast read Michael. You don't mention much about vibration dampers, particularly tuned vs non-tuned. The factory rubber-bonded style damper only works correctly on the engine it came off as it can only damp one specific frequency. There are a host of aftermarket designs that use viscous fluid or 'rattler' pucks to achieve damping at any frequency and regardless of engine type. I believe guys are even making them to go on the flywheel to damp vibes at both ends. For a relatively simple piece of engineering, their prices seem to be based on "it is still cheaper than a blown up engine". Another thing that doesn't get much mention and is a direct result of crankshaft torsional flex is timing scatter. The vibrations find their way through the cam chain and into the distributor where they react with the flyweights and other parts so the timing, and equally importantly the dwell can vary wildly at high rpm. I heard that some Chrysler V engines with the distributor at the back will explode the flyweights if fitted with a gear drive cam since the chain dampens out a fair amount of vibration. The BMC six cylinder timing marks will scatter around an inch or so at high speed, more when suddenly closing the throttle as this is where the most crankshaft stress occurs. Andy. On 1/4/17, Michael Salter wrote: > New post on my blog about Austin Healey 100 crankshafts... > > > ?M > ?ichael S > BN1 #174? > From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Jan 3 15:49:18 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2017 14:49:18 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] If you are having trouble sleeping!!! References: Very useful info, as always. Was wondering how much 'de-stroking' the engine--shorter piston/rod thows--would help? Of course, you'd need to source yet another type of crankshaft, conrods, etc.. Bob On 1/3/2017 1:23 PM, Austin Healeys List wrote: > Thanks for the interesting breakfast read Michael. > > You don't mention much about vibration dampers, particularly tuned vs > non-tuned. The factory rubber-bonded style damper only works correctly > on the engine it came off as it can only damp one specific frequency. > There are a host of aftermarket designs that use viscous fluid or > 'rattler' pucks to achieve damping at any frequency and regardless of > engine type. I believe guys are even making them to go on the flywheel > to damp vibes at both ends. For a relatively simple piece of > engineering, their prices seem to be based on "it is still cheaper > than a blown up engine". > > Another thing that doesn't get much mention and is a direct result of > crankshaft torsional flex is timing scatter. The vibrations find their > way through the cam chain and into the distributor where they react > with the flyweights and other parts so the timing, and equally > importantly the dwell can vary wildly at high rpm. I heard that some > Chrysler V engines with the distributor at the back will explode the > flyweights if fitted with a gear drive cam since the chain dampens out > a fair amount of vibration. The BMC six cylinder timing marks will > scatter around an inch or so at high speed, more when suddenly closing > the throttle as this is where the most crankshaft stress occurs. > > Andy. > > On 1/4/17, Michael Salter wrote: >> New post on my blog about Austin Healey 100 crankshafts... >> >> >> ?M >> ?ichael S >> BN1 #174? >> From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue Jan 3 18:16:17 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2017 01:16:17 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] If you are having trouble sleeping!!! References: <8185099a-5f19-64fa-db0e-f318a005da43@comcast.net> OK, you guys have me sufficiently scared to finish putting this stock 100-4 engine together only to have it grenade the crank somewhere down the road.? Probably when I am at the furthest point from home. Mike MacLean On Tuesday, January 3, 2017 3:16 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: Very useful info, as always.? Was wondering how much 'de-stroking' the engine--shorter piston/rod thows--would help?? Of course, you'd need to source yet another type of crankshaft, conrods, etc.. Bob On 1/3/2017 1:23 PM, Austin Healeys List wrote: > Thanks for the interesting breakfast read Michael. > > You don't mention much about vibration dampers, particularly tuned vs > non-tuned. The factory rubber-bonded style damper only works correctly > on the engine it came off as it can only damp one specific frequency. > There are a host of aftermarket designs that use viscous fluid or > 'rattler' pucks to achieve damping at any frequency and regardless of > engine type. I believe guys are even making them to go on the flywheel > to damp vibes at both ends. For a relatively simple piece of > engineering, their prices seem to be based on "it is still cheaper > than a blown up engine". > > Another thing that doesn't get much mention and is a direct result of > crankshaft torsional flex is timing scatter. The vibrations find their > way through the cam chain and into the distributor where they react > with the flyweights and other parts so the timing, and equally > importantly the dwell can vary wildly at high rpm. I heard that some > Chrysler V engines with the distributor at the back will explode the > flyweights if fitted with a gear drive cam since the chain dampens out > a fair amount of vibration. The BMC six cylinder timing marks will > scatter around an inch or so at high speed, more when suddenly closing > the throttle as this is where the most crankshaft stress occurs. > > Andy. > > On 1/4/17, Michael Salter wrote: >> New post on my blog about Austin Healey 100 crankshafts... >> >> >> ?M >> ?ichael S >> BN1 #174? >> _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Jan 3 19:03:36 2017 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2017 10:03:36 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] The Crown All - As someone who owns an original 100 painted Coronet Cream, I think this is slightly remotely Healey related. Been watching Netflix's "The Crown" about Elizabeth II. It's actually very well done, excellent show, although I do have to say the real Elizabeth was a bit more svelte and attractive than the actress they've cast as her, but otherwise a good show to watch. Lots of old early 50's LBCs in the show, although it does appear to me they have tended to accept late 1950's cars and boats as acceptable to use in a movie about 1952, but I quibble. Cheers, Alan -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From derek.c.job at gmail.com Wed Jan 4 02:01:36 2017 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2017 09:01:36 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] If you are having trouble sleeping!!! References: <8185099a-5f19-64fa-db0e-f318a005da43@comcast.net> <753426854.5677318.1483492577852@mail.yahoo.com> Great read Michael. On Wed, Jan 4, 2017 at 1:16 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: > OK, you guys have me sufficiently scared to finish putting this stock > 100-4 engine together only to have it grenade the crank somewhere down the > road. Probably when I am at the furthest point from home. > Mike MacLean > > > On Tuesday, January 3, 2017 3:16 PM, Bob Spidell > wrote: > > > > > Very useful info, as always. Was wondering how much 'de-stroking' the > engine--shorter piston/rod thows--would help? Of course, you'd need to > source yet another type of crankshaft, conrods, etc.. > > Bob > > > On 1/3/2017 1:23 PM, Austin Healeys List wrote: > > Thanks for the interesting breakfast read Michael. > > > > You don't mention much about vibration dampers, particularly tuned vs > > non-tuned. The factory rubber-bonded style damper only works correctly > > on the engine it came off as it can only damp one specific frequency. > > There are a host of aftermarket designs that use viscous fluid or > > 'rattler' pucks to achieve damping at any frequency and regardless of > > engine type. I believe guys are even making them to go on the flywheel > > to damp vibes at both ends. For a relatively simple piece of > > engineering, their prices seem to be based on "it is still cheaper > > than a blown up engine". > > > > Another thing that doesn't get much mention and is a direct result of > > crankshaft torsional flex is timing scatter. The vibrations find their > > way through the cam chain and into the distributor where they react > > with the flyweights and other parts so the timing, and equally > > importantly the dwell can vary wildly at high rpm. I heard that some > > Chrysler V engines with the distributor at the back will explode the > > flyweights if fitted with a gear drive cam since the chain dampens out > > a fair amount of vibration. The BMC six cylinder timing marks will > > scatter around an inch or so at high speed, more when suddenly closing > > the throttle as this is where the most crankshaft stress occurs. > > > > Andy. > > > > On 1/4/17, Michael Salter wrote: > >> New post on my blog about Austin Healey 100 crankshafts... > >> healey-100-crank-failures/> > >> > >> ?M > >> ?ichael S > >> BN1 #174? > >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From nmcd10 at gmail.com Wed Jan 4 04:05:18 2017 From: nmcd10 at gmail.com (Neil McDonald) Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2017 11:05:18 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive Yesterday I wrote "I have concluded that the most likely cause of my problems are low OD fluid levels and/or inadequate opening of the actuating valve. Both I can readily deal with." In off line discussions with Steve Byers I have added a third and ominous possibility, a defective accumulator. The good hydraulic pressure already confirmed only indicates that the pump is OK because testing was not done while trying to engage the OD. My understanding is that OD engagement is the accumulator's function and the pump's role is to pressurise the accumulator for this task before OD engagement. A definitive test of accumulator condition seems to be how well it holds pressure after the engine is switched off! _____________________ Neil McDonald Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeybn4 at aol.com Wed Jan 4 05:45:59 2017 From: healeybn4 at aol.com (Peter Sturtevant) Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2017 07:45:59 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] CG Autowood Healey subscribers, Does any one have experience with CG Autowood of Norwalk, CT and the quality of their reproduction Burl Walnut BJ8 dashboards? They are regular sellers on eBay. How is their quality and how does the dash compare with the originals? My Phase 1 BJ8 is an excellent driver, and not concours. All recommendations will be appreciated Pete Sturtevant AHCA NE Secretary/Webmaster 774-284-1212 From michaelsalter at gmail.com Wed Jan 4 07:53:26 2017 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2017 09:53:26 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive References: Hi again Neil, With all due respects to Steve I would not suspect the accumulator because it is in the hydraulic circuit ahead of the operating valve. If the accumulator was leaking badly enough to prevent the overdrive from engaging you would never see 390 p.s.i. if you are testing at the operating valve plug with the ball and spring in position. Although the specified pressure for our units is 470 - 490 p.s.i. I have never seen one achieve 490 p.s.i. and have found units that operated quite satisfactorily with pressures as low as 300 p.s.i. hot. Someone suggested running the car on stands and manually lifting the valve setting lever. That is how I test for correct operation BUT PLEASE be ware of that driveshaft spinning next to your right hip. Getting yourself tangled up in that will ruin your day. Michael S BN1 #174 On Wed, Jan 4, 2017 at 6:05 AM, Neil McDonald wrote: > Yesterday I wrote "I have concluded that the most likely cause of my > problems are low OD fluid levels and/or inadequate opening of the actuating > valve. Both I can readily deal with." > > In off line discussions with Steve Byers I have added a third and ominous > possibility, a defective accumulator. The good hydraulic pressure already > confirmed only indicates that the pump is OK because testing was not done > while trying to engage the OD. My understanding is that OD engagement is > the accumulator's function and the pump's role is to pressurise the > accumulator for this task *before* OD engagement. A definitive test of > accumulator condition seems to be how well it holds pressure after the > engine is switched off! > _____________________ > Neil McDonald > > Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > > -- *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Wed Jan 4 08:46:36 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2017 10:46:36 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive References: Mike, what I mentioned to Neil is that both times I have had problems with my overdrive failing to engage, or engaging sluggishly, the problem was the accumulator. The first time it would engage when cold, but not when hot. The accumulator walls were severely gouged, probably from too much debris in the oil from not having been changed frequently enough before I got the car. I found no other problems. I concluded that the massive leakage prevented the accumulator piston from moving back far enough against the spring to direct the oil to the metering pin. The second time, the overdrive was slow to engage, felt like it was slipping, and would make a whirring noise as it tried to do so. I put a gauge on the O/D and went for a drive. I was reading 350 psi before the O/D switch was flipped, dropping to 100 psi at it tried to engage and back up to 350 - 365 psi after engagement. I found a broken accumulator piston ring and a loose ring in the bottom of the accumulator bore. After correcting that (and a broken thrust washer behind the planetaries), I read 450 psi before flipping the O/D switch and 250 psi as it engaged. I neglected to record the recovery pressure. This was done on a test rig and I did not repeat the test on the road since the O/D worked perfectly after reinstallation in the car. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Salter Sent: Wednesday, January 04, 2017 9:53 AM To: Neil McDonald Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive Hi again Neil, With all due respects to Steve I would not suspect the accumulator because it is in the hydraulic circuit ahead of the operating valve. If the accumulator was leaking badly enough to prevent the overdrive from engaging you would never see 390 p.s.i. if you are testing at the operating valve plug with the ball and spring in position. Although the specified pressure for our units is 470 - 490 p.s.i. I have never seen one achieve 490 p.s.i. and have found units that operated quite satisfactorily with pressures as low as 300 p.s.i. hot. Someone suggested running the car on stands and manually lifting the valve setting lever. That is how I test for correct operation BUT PLEASE be ware of that driveshaft spinning next to your right hip. Getting yourself tangled up in that will ruin your day. Michael S BN1 #174 On Wed, Jan 4, 2017 at 6:05 AM, Neil McDonald wrote: Yesterday I wrote "I have concluded that the most likely cause of my problems are low OD fluid levels and/or inadequate opening of the actuating valve. Both I can readily deal with." In off line discussions with Steve Byers I have added a third and ominous possibility, a defective accumulator. The good hydraulic pressure already confirmed only indicates that the pump is OK because testing was not done while trying to engage the OD. My understanding is that OD engagement is the accumulator's function and the pump's role is to pressurise the accumulator for this task before OD engagement. A definitive test of accumulator condition seems to be how well it holds pressure after the engine is switched off! _____________________ Neil McDonald Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Wed Jan 4 09:47:48 2017 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2017 11:47:48 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive References: <024d01d266a1$bbe74770$33b5d650$@rr.com> Hi Steve, Best wishes for a Happy and Prosperous New Year. Yep those symptoms mostly make sense. *"The first time it would engage when cold, but not when hot. The accumulator walls were severely gouged, probably from too much debris in the oil from not having been changed frequently enough before I got the car. I found no other problems. I concluded that the massive leakage prevented the accumulator piston from moving back far enough against the spring to direct the oil to the metering pin."* In this case unfortunately you don't mention the pre-repair test pressures but they would have been quite low, probably 300 odd cold and below 250 hot, meaning that there was not enough pressure to move the clutch against the springs. I would imagine that as your drove and the oil heated up the unit would have started to slip and then dropped out of overdrive altogether. *The second time, the overdrive was slow to engage, felt like it was slipping, and would make a whirring noise as it tried to do so. I put a gauge on the O/D and went for a drive. I was reading 350 psi before the O/D switch was flipped, dropping to 100 psi at it tried to engage and back up to 350 - 365 psi after engagement. I found a broken accumulator piston ring and a loose ring in the bottom of the accumulator bore. After correcting that (and a broken thrust washer behind the planetaries), I read 450 psi before flipping the O/D switch and 250 psi as it engaged. I neglected to record the recovery pressure. This was done on a test rig and I did not repeat the test on the road since the O/D worked perfectly after reinstallation in the car.* In this case the pressure during engagement is a little low but that is, as you found, probably due to damage in the accumulator. I'm surprised to hear that it slipped with a 350 -360 engaged pressure but that may have had something to do with the broken thrust preventing full travel of the clutch member...not sure about that one.. I have experienced that whirring noise on some units as well I suspect it is the unidirectional clutch slipping.. I envy your test rig...I always intended to build one but I never got a round tuit... M On Wed, Jan 4, 2017 at 10:46 AM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > Mike, what I mentioned to Neil is that both times I have had problems with > my overdrive failing to engage, or engaging sluggishly, the problem was the > accumulator. The first time it would engage when cold, but not when hot. > The accumulator walls were severely gouged, probably from too much debris > in the oil from not having been changed frequently enough before I got the > car. I found no other problems. I concluded that the massive leakage > prevented the accumulator piston from moving back far enough against the > spring to direct the oil to the metering pin. > > The second time, the overdrive was slow to engage, felt like it was > slipping, and would make a whirring noise as it tried to do so. I put a > gauge on the O/D and went for a drive. I was reading 350 psi before the > O/D switch was flipped, dropping to 100 psi at it tried to engage and back > up to 350 - 365 psi after engagement. I found a broken accumulator piston > ring and a loose ring in the bottom of the accumulator bore. After > correcting that (and a broken thrust washer behind the planetaries), I read > 450 psi before flipping the O/D switch and 250 psi as it engaged. I > neglected to record the recovery pressure. This was done on a test rig and > I did not repeat the test on the road since the O/D worked perfectly after > reinstallation in the car. > > > > Steve Byers > > HBJ8L/36666 > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > Havelock, NC > > > > > > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Michael > Salter > *Sent:* Wednesday, January 04, 2017 9:53 AM > *To:* Neil McDonald > *Cc:* Healey List > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive > > > > Hi again Neil, > > With all due respects to Steve I would not suspect the accumulator because > it is in the hydraulic circuit ahead of the operating valve. > > If the accumulator was leaking badly enough to prevent the overdrive from > engaging you would never see 390 p.s.i. if you are testing at the operating > valve plug with the ball and spring in position. > > Although the specified pressure for our units is 470 - 490 p.s.i. I have > never seen one achieve 490 p.s.i. and have found units that operated quite > satisfactorily with pressures as low as 300 p.s.i. hot. > > Someone suggested running the car on stands and manually lifting the valve > setting lever. That is how I test for correct operation BUT PLEASE be ware > of that driveshaft spinning next to your right hip. Getting yourself > tangled up in that will ruin your day. > > Michael S > > BN1 #174 > > > > On Wed, Jan 4, 2017 at 6:05 AM, Neil McDonald wrote: > > Yesterday I wrote "I have concluded that the most likely cause of my > problems are low OD fluid levels and/or inadequate opening of the actuating > valve. Both I can readily deal with." > > > > In off line discussions with Steve Byers I have added a third and ominous > possibility, a defective accumulator. The good hydraulic pressure already > confirmed only indicates that the pump is OK because testing was not done > while trying to engage the OD. My understanding is that OD engagement is > the accumulator's function and the pump's role is to pressurise the > accumulator for this task *before* OD engagement. A definitive test of > accumulator condition seems to be how well it holds pressure after the > engine is switched off! > > _____________________ > > Neil McDonald > > > > Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > > -- *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From nmcd10 at gmail.com Wed Jan 4 10:14:32 2017 From: nmcd10 at gmail.com (Neil McDonald) Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2017 17:14:32 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive References: <024d01d266a1$bbe74770$33b5d650$@rr.com> Well this is all a great OD education, so let me ask another question. Michael Salter said "If the accumulator was leaking badly enough to prevent the overdrive from engaging you would never see 390 p.s.i. if you are testing at the operating valve plug with the ball and spring in position". My pressure testing rig is based on an old Del Border suggestion of connecting the pressure gauge through a hole in a spare operating valve plug. I can not recall whether I tested with the ball and spring in position or not. I suspect that they were both out. Would this invalidate my results? _____________________ Neil McDonald Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com > On 4 Jan 2017, at 16:47, Michael Salter wrote: > > f the accumulator was leaking badly enough to prevent the overdrive from engaging you would never see 390 p.s.i. if you are testing at the operating valve plug with the ball and spring in position. From michaelsalter at gmail.com Wed Jan 4 10:23:40 2017 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2017 12:23:40 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive References: <024d01d266a1$bbe74770$33b5d650$@rr.com> Hi Neil, By testing without the ball and spring you would get a totally invalid result because oil would leak down the center of the operating valve push rod and out through the small pressure relief hole to the sump. When the overdrive is engaged and the operating valve ball is lifted off its seat by the push rod the hole in the top of the push rod is blocked by the ball being held against it by the spring. M On Wed, Jan 4, 2017 at 12:14 PM, Neil McDonald wrote: > Well this is all a great OD education, so let me ask another question. > > Michael Salter said "If the accumulator was leaking badly enough to > prevent the overdrive from engaging you would never see 390 p.s.i. if you > are testing at the operating valve plug with the ball and spring in > position". > > My pressure testing rig is based on an old Del Border suggestion of > connecting the pressure gauge through a hole in a spare operating valve > plug. I can not recall whether I tested with the ball and spring in > position or not. > > I suspect that they were both out. Would this invalidate my results? > _____________________ > Neil McDonald > > Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com > > > > On 4 Jan 2017, at 16:47, Michael Salter wrote: > > > > f the accumulator was leaking badly enough to prevent the overdrive from > engaging you would never see 390 p.s.i. if you are testing at the operating > valve plug with the ball and spring in position. > -- *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Wed Jan 4 16:02:56 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2017 18:02:56 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive References: <024d01d266a1$bbe74770$33b5d650$@rr.com> Mike, the first O/D problem occurred shortly after I bought the car back in the '80s. I had no test gauge to check the pressures and didn't know much about the system anyway. The O/D would shift and stay engaged as long as it was engaged when cold. But whenever I had to stop after the oil got hot, it would shift out and never shift back in again until the oil was cold. Those symptoms lasted for a while (a year or two, as I recall), and then the overdrive quit shifting at all. I had a spare BJ7 gearbox/overdrive so I installed that. The overdrive in that one worked exactly like the BJ8 O/D did before it quit pissed0002.gif The second O/D problem occurred two years ago. My friend and usual long-distance BJ8 traveling companion, George Haywood, had the motor available and built the test rig himself without my knowledge until he brought it over to test my overdrive (photo attached). It worked great after we figured out how to couple the motor shaft to the input shaft of the gearbox. We used a short length of thick-walled rubber hose and 2 band clamps (oriented 180-deg. out for balance). The first length of hose was too long, and it allowed some instability in the RPMs between the motor and input shaft. After we shortened the hose enough, it worked great. Happy Healey 2017! Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: michael.salter at gmail.com [mailto:michael.salter at gmail.com] On Behalf Of Michael Salter Sent: Wednesday, January 04, 2017 11:48 AM To: BJ8Healeys Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive Hi Steve, Best wishes for a Happy and Prosperous New Year. Yep those symptoms mostly make sense. "The first time it would engage when cold, but not when hot. The accumulator walls were severely gouged, probably from too much debris in the oil from not having been changed frequently enough before I got the car. I found no other problems. I concluded that the massive leakage prevented the accumulator piston from moving back far enough against the spring to direct the oil to the metering pin." In this case unfortunately you don't mention the pre-repair test pressures but they would have been quite low, probably 300 odd cold and below 250 hot, meaning that there was not enough pressure to move the clutch against the springs. I would imagine that as your drove and the oil heated up the unit would have started to slip and then dropped out of overdrive altogether. The second time, the overdrive was slow to engage, felt like it was slipping, and would make a whirring noise as it tried to do so. I put a gauge on the O/D and went for a drive. I was reading 350 psi before the O/D switch was flipped, dropping to 100 psi at it tried to engage and back up to 350 - 365 psi after engagement. I found a broken accumulator piston ring and a loose ring in the bottom of the accumulator bore. After correcting that (and a broken thrust washer behind the planetaries), I read 450 psi before flipping the O/D switch and 250 psi as it engaged. I neglected to record the recovery pressure. This was done on a test rig and I did not repeat the test on the road since the O/D worked perfectly after reinstallation in the car. In this case the pressure during engagement is a little low but that is, as you found, probably due to damage in the accumulator. I'm surprised to hear that it slipped with a 350 -360 engaged pressure but that may have had something to do with the broken thrust preventing full travel of the clutch member...not sure about that one.. I have experienced that whirring noise on some units as well I suspect it is the unidirectional clutch slipping.. I envy your test rig...I always intended to build one but I never got a round tuit... M On Wed, Jan 4, 2017 at 10:46 AM, BJ8Healeys wrote: Mike, what I mentioned to Neil is that both times I have had problems with my overdrive failing to engage, or engaging sluggishly, the problem was the accumulator. The first time it would engage when cold, but not when hot. The accumulator walls were severely gouged, probably from too much debris in the oil from not having been changed frequently enough before I got the car. I found no other problems. I concluded that the massive leakage prevented the accumulator piston from moving back far enough against the spring to direct the oil to the metering pin. The second time, the overdrive was slow to engage, felt like it was slipping, and would make a whirring noise as it tried to do so. I put a gauge on the O/D and went for a drive. I was reading 350 psi before the O/D switch was flipped, dropping to 100 psi at it tried to engage and back up to 350 - 365 psi after engagement. I found a broken accumulator piston ring and a loose ring in the bottom of the accumulator bore. After correcting that (and a broken thrust washer behind the planetaries), I read 450 psi before flipping the O/D switch and 250 psi as it engaged. I neglected to record the recovery pressure. This was done on a test rig and I did not repeat the test on the road since the O/D worked perfectly after reinstallation in the car. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Salter Sent: Wednesday, January 04, 2017 9:53 AM To: Neil McDonald Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive Hi again Neil, With all due respects to Steve I would not suspect the accumulator because it is in the hydraulic circuit ahead of the operating valve. If the accumulator was leaking badly enough to prevent the overdrive from engaging you would never see 390 p.s.i. if you are testing at the operating valve plug with the ball and spring in position. Although the specified pressure for our units is 470 - 490 p.s.i. I have never seen one achieve 490 p.s.i. and have found units that operated quite satisfactorily with pressures as low as 300 p.s.i. hot. Someone suggested running the car on stands and manually lifting the valve setting lever. That is how I test for correct operation BUT PLEASE be ware of that driveshaft spinning next to your right hip. Getting yourself tangled up in that will ruin your day. Michael S BN1 #174 On Wed, Jan 4, 2017 at 6:05 AM, Neil McDonald wrote: Yesterday I wrote "I have concluded that the most likely cause of my problems are low OD fluid levels and/or inadequate opening of the actuating valve. Both I can readily deal with." In off line discussions with Steve Byers I have added a third and ominous possibility, a defective accumulator. The good hydraulic pressure already confirmed only indicates that the pump is OK because testing was not done while trying to engage the OD. My understanding is that OD engagement is the accumulator's function and the pump's role is to pressurise the accumulator for this task before OD engagement. A definitive test of accumulator condition seems to be how well it holds pressure after the engine is switched off! _____________________ Neil McDonald Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -- If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem. No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2016.0.7996 / Virus Database: 4749/13706 - Release Date: 01/04/17 _____ No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2016.0.7924 / Virus Database: 4739/13675 - Release Date: 12/30/16 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.gif Type: image/gif Size: 1984 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: George's test rig2.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 102188 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Testing the overdrive (George at work2).jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 97923 bytes Desc: not available URL: From austinhealeyslist at gmail.com Thu Jan 5 18:29:02 2017 From: austinhealeyslist at gmail.com (Austin Healeys List) Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2017 14:29:02 +1300 Subject: [Healeys] BN4 reflector rubbers My BN4 reflector rubbers are very tired and likely to fall out, but it seems nobody has reproduced them yet. Apart from fitting the later style flat ones, what options are there for keeping the 'bullets'? If nothing is available then I'll try casting them in polyurethane rubber. In anticipation of nothing available, I made a quick model of the rubber but it is so perished much of the detail is lost. Would anyone have an original rubber in reasonable condition to get some dimensions off or a pic of please? Andy. -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: reflector.png Type: image/png Size: 184361 bytes Desc: not available URL: From nmcd10 at gmail.com Fri Jan 6 05:53:54 2017 From: nmcd10 at gmail.com (Neil McDonald) Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2017 12:53:54 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Tyres Discovered this very interesting picture from the Longstone Tyres (UK) website illustrating different Healey tyre options. The middle tyre with a white label is the original 590/15 and the two on the right hand end are the very common 165/15 radial replacements which Moss Motors recommends and are as currently fitted to my car. Longstone recommends the Michelin XAS 180HR15 pictured on the immediate right of the 590/15 - apparently for all big Healeys. Note the different diameters! In view of ground clearance concerns it seems to me that 180/15 is the way to go. However checking these same tyres on the Coker (US) website, they say that they are intended for 5-6.5 inch rims..... but the BN6 only has 4" rims! Should I be concerned at this apparent Longstone-Coker-Moss conflict? -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0427.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 25328 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- _____________________ Neil McDonald Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Fri Jan 6 09:37:26 2017 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2017 08:37:26 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] BN4 reflector rubbers References: Get the later style reflectors, pull them apart to install and then install the cones. If you need the cones we have them available. David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com -----Original Message----- From: Austin Healeys List Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2017 5:29 PM To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BN4 reflector rubbers My BN4 reflector rubbers are very tired and likely to fall out, but it seems nobody has reproduced them yet. Apart from fitting the later style flat ones, what options are there for keeping the 'bullets'? If nothing is available then I'll try casting them in polyurethane rubber. In anticipation of nothing available, I made a quick model of the rubber but it is so perished much of the detail is lost. Would anyone have an original rubber in reasonable condition to get some dimensions off or a pic of please? Andy. _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From michael.oritt at gmail.com Fri Jan 6 09:52:28 2017 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2017 11:52:28 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Scissor jack References: <7E6379C4-B448-486D-97B8-F5852C509CC9@comcast.net> With 180-15R Michelin XAS tires inflated to 30 psi my 100's ground clearance at front and rear frame cross-members is 7.5" which decreases to 5.5" when all air is let out of a tire. This allows me to use a small 2-ton CarQuest scissor jack which carries an MVP label and is similar to this one: http://www.toolpan.com/ATD-Tools-7462--2-Ton-Scissor-Jack_p_1290.html?gdffi=d5de8d975e554fe98677ff5f83efd439&gd It collapses down to 4.5" and stows nicely in the compartment to the left of the spare. Best--Michael Oritt On Mon, Dec 26, 2016 at 12:55 PM, ROBERT A WESTCOTT <55healey at comcast.net> wrote: > Remamber folks, The scissor jack needs to be placed under the side of a > car when jacking. > > Placing one under the rear crossmember without chocking the front wheels > will allow the car to roll forward off the jack allowing it to tip forward > so the scissor jack screw > can punch a 1/2? hole in the rear skirt panel under the bumper. Don?t ask > me how I know. > > By the way, if the car happened to roll backward, the other side of the > screw would have punched that 1/2? hole in the almost full gas tank dumping > all that gas on the shop floor. > > I think we could write a book on all the really bad things that can and > have happened while jacking up our cars. > > Rob > > > On Dec 25, 2016, at 2:34 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > > > Don't think HF has what you want. Don't think you can beat this (NFI): > > > > http://www.ebay.com/itm/Liftmaster-1-5-Ton-3300lb- > Scissor-Jack-with-Force-Reduction-Drive/322368428129?_ > trksid=p2141725.c100338.m3726&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo% > 3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20150313114020%26meid% > 3D4095f99da41c468ca6e7d7567b28a111%26pid%3D100338%26rk%3D1% > 26rkt%3D30%26sd%3D112156936669 > > > > I went looking for these a couple years ago and barely found one; looks > like someone has gotten back in the business. Only thing that I don't like > is the handle comes out of the slot too easily. > > > > > > On 12/25/2016 2:30 PM, i erbs wrote: > >> I think I used to have one as I found the handle for one a few months > ago :) > >> I think the scissor jack makes more sense. I'll head to harbor freight > tomorrow. > >> Funny how I never had a spare in the car during the 10 year use as a > daily driver. But can't stop thinking about how important it is now. I have > disk wheel and disk brakes, so I wont be able to borrow a spare form anyone > in the club when we tour... > >> > >> Ira Erbs > >> Portland,OR > >> _______ _______ > >> (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > >> (_________________________) > >> BT7 engine and disk brakes > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Jan 6 10:55:19 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2017 09:55:19 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Scissor jack References: <7E6379C4-B448-486D-97B8-F5852C509CC9@comcast.net> Thanks, I bought scissor jack with a gear reduction option for fewer turns. I need to make a handle extension. I have never run with both a jack and a spare tire in over 40 years of driving. No what I am older and wiser, I thought it might be a good idea :) Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Fri, Jan 6, 2017 at 8:52 AM, Michael Oritt wrote: > With 180-15R Michelin XAS tires inflated to 30 psi my 100's ground > clearance at front and rear frame cross-members is 7.5" which decreases to > 5.5" when all air is let out of a tire. > > This allows me to use a small 2-ton CarQuest scissor jack which carries > an MVP label and is similar to this one: > > http://www.toolpan.com/ATD-Tools-7462--2-Ton-Scissor- > Jack_p_1290.html?gdffi=d5de8d975e554fe98677ff5f83efd439&gd > > It collapses down to 4.5" and stows nicely in the compartment to the left > of the spare. > > Best--Michael Oritt > > > On Mon, Dec 26, 2016 at 12:55 PM, ROBERT A WESTCOTT <55healey at comcast.net> > wrote: > >> Remamber folks, The scissor jack needs to be placed under the side of a >> car when jacking. >> >> Placing one under the rear crossmember without chocking the front wheels >> will allow the car to roll forward off the jack allowing it to tip forward >> so the scissor jack screw >> can punch a 1/2? hole in the rear skirt panel under the bumper. Don?t >> ask me how I know. >> >> By the way, if the car happened to roll backward, the other side of the >> screw would have punched that 1/2? hole in the almost full gas tank dumping >> all that gas on the shop floor. >> >> I think we could write a book on all the really bad things that can and >> have happened while jacking up our cars. >> >> Rob >> >> > On Dec 25, 2016, at 2:34 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: >> > >> > Don't think HF has what you want. Don't think you can beat this (NFI): >> > >> > http://www.ebay.com/itm/Liftmaster-1-5-Ton-3300lb-Scissor- >> Jack-with-Force-Reduction-Drive/322368428129?_trksid= >> p2141725.c100338.m3726&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3 >> DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20150313114020%26meid%3D4095f99da4 >> 1c468ca6e7d7567b28a111%26pid%3D100338%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D30% >> 26sd%3D112156936669 >> > >> > I went looking for these a couple years ago and barely found one; looks >> like someone has gotten back in the business. Only thing that I don't like >> is the handle comes out of the slot too easily. >> > >> > >> > On 12/25/2016 2:30 PM, i erbs wrote: >> >> I think I used to have one as I found the handle for one a few months >> ago :) >> >> I think the scissor jack makes more sense. I'll head to harbor >> freight tomorrow. >> >> Funny how I never had a spare in the car during the 10 year use as a >> daily driver. But can't stop thinking about how important it is now. I have >> disk wheel and disk brakes, so I wont be able to borrow a spare form anyone >> in the club when we tour... >> >> >> >> Ira Erbs >> >> Portland,OR >> >> _______ _______ >> >> (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) >> >> (_________________________) >> >> BT7 engine and disk brakes >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com >> >> > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From josef-eckert at t-online.de Fri Jan 6 11:13:22 2017 From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de) Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2017 19:13:22 +0100 (MET) Subject: [Healeys] BN4 reflector rubbers References: Andy, You can get the complette reflector new from SC Parts UK: http://www.scparts.co.uk/sc_en/british-cars/austin-healey/austin-healey-bn1-to-bj8-1952-1968/electrics-ignition-system-heating-and-dashboard/lamps.html#84 see 84, PartNo 206240 Josef Eckert Konigswinter/Germany -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: [Healeys] BN4 reflector rubbers Datum: 2017-01-06T05:01:21+0100 Von: "Austin Healeys List" An: "Healeys at autox.team.net" My BN4 reflector rubbers are very tired and likely to fall out, but it seems nobody has reproduced them yet. Apart from fitting the later style flat ones, what options are there for keeping the 'bullets'? If nothing is available then I'll try casting them in polyurethane rubber. In anticipation of nothing available, I made a quick model of the rubber but it is so perished much of the detail is lost. Would anyone have an original rubber in reasonable condition to get some dimensions off or a pic of please? Andy. ? From austinhealeyslist at gmail.com Fri Jan 6 12:49:29 2017 From: austinhealeyslist at gmail.com (Austin Healeys List) Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2017 08:49:29 +1300 Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Tyres References: The 180 XAS are a good fit on the rims, however they are quite a bit wider than the stock tyres so the spare is a dubious fit. They also run very close to things in the wheel arch and tend to rub the splash guards at full lock as well as rub the indicator lamp wires at the front if they are not tied out of the way. I had to modify the RH rear arch shape to prevent fouling of the rearmost lower point too as the rolled edge was not very well done from the factory. The tyres drive very nicely but have a faint whirring noise at highway speed. Ground clearance is definitely improved but mostly they fill up the wheel arches and look great, particularly on painted 48 spokes. Andy. On 1/7/17, Neil McDonald wrote: > Discovered this very interesting picture from the Longstone Tyres (UK) > website illustrating different Healey tyre options. The middle tyre with a > white label is the original 590/15 and the two on the right hand end are the > very common 165/15 radial replacements which Moss Motors recommends and are > as currently fitted to my car. > > Longstone recommends the Michelin XAS 180HR15 pictured on the immediate > right of the 590/15 - apparently for all big Healeys. Note the different > diameters! > > In view of ground clearance concerns it seems to me that 180/15 is the way > to go. However checking these same tyres on the Coker (US) website, they say > that they are intended for 5-6.5 inch rims..... but the BN6 only has 4" > rims! > > Should I be concerned at this apparent Longstone-Coker-Moss conflict? > > From austinhealeyslist at gmail.com Fri Jan 6 13:05:59 2017 From: austinhealeyslist at gmail.com (Austin Healeys List) Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2017 09:05:59 +1300 Subject: [Healeys] BN4 reflector rubbers References: <1483726402369.71118.9b03844164d7b9a2ff6e52d4d25ff52a4f366056@spica.telekom.de> Thanks Josef, Yesterday was a good day! I now have two original rubbers in near perfect condition and two correct Lucas Reflex reflector discs as mine were off a bicycle. The little paper note hidden in behind one of the reflectors made my day. Andy. On 1/7/17, josef-eckert at t-online.de wrote: > Andy, > You can get the complette reflector new from SC Parts UK: > > http://www.scparts.co.uk/sc_en/british-cars/austin-healey/austin-healey-bn1-to-bj8-1952-1968/electrics-ignition-system-heating-and-dashboard/lamps.html#84 > > see 84, PartNo 206240 > > Josef Eckert > Konigswinter/Germany > > > > -----Original-Nachricht----- > Betreff: [Healeys] BN4 reflector rubbers > Datum: 2017-01-06T05:01:21+0100 > Von: "Austin Healeys List" > An: "Healeys at autox.team.net" > > My BN4 reflector rubbers are very tired and likely to fall out, but it > seems nobody has reproduced them yet. Apart from fitting the later > style flat ones, what options are there for keeping the 'bullets'? If > nothing is available then I'll try casting them in polyurethane > rubber. > > In anticipation of nothing available, I made a quick model of the > rubber but it is so perished much of the detail is lost. Would anyone > have an original rubber in reasonable condition to get some dimensions > off or a pic of please? > > Andy. > ? > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: DSC09569.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 390494 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rkeysor at bellsouth.net Fri Jan 6 14:09:23 2017 From: rkeysor at bellsouth.net (rkeysor) Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2017 21:09:23 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Scissor jack References: <7E6379C4-B448-486D-97B8-F5852C509CC9@comcast.net> Just got the geared scissor jack. ?Frankly, I don't think it is much easier to crank than the typical jack. On Friday, January 6, 2017 2:42 PM, i erbs wrote: Thanks,?I bought scissor jack with a gear reduction option for fewer turns.?I need to make a handle extension.I have never run with both a jack and a spare tire in over 40 years of driving. No what I am older and wiser, I thought it might be a good idea :) Ira ErbsPortland,OR? ? ? _______ ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?_______ ? ?? (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) ? ? ? ?? (_________________________)? ? ? ? ? BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Fri, Jan 6, 2017 at 8:52 AM, Michael Oritt wrote: With 180-15R Michelin XAS tires inflated to 30 psi my 100's ground clearance at front and rear frame cross-members is 7.5" which decreases to 5.5" when all air is let out of a tire. This allows me to use a small 2-ton CarQuest scissor jack which carries an MVP label and is similar to this one: http://www.toolpan.com/ATD- Tools-7462--2-Ton-Scissor- Jack_p_1290.html?gdffi= d5de8d975e554fe98677ff5f83efd4 39&gd It collapses down to 4.5" and stows nicely in the compartment to the left of the spare. ? Best--Michael Oritt On Mon, Dec 26, 2016 at 12:55 PM, ROBERT A WESTCOTT <55healey at comcast.net> wrote: Remamber folks,? The scissor jack needs to be placed under the side of a car when jacking. Placing one under the rear crossmember without chocking the front wheels will allow the car to roll forward off the jack allowing it to tip forward so the scissor jack screw can punch a 1/2? hole in the rear skirt panel under the bumper.? Don?t ask me how I know. By the way, if the car happened to roll backward, the other side of the screw would have punched that 1/2? hole in the almost full gas tank dumping all that gas on the shop floor. I think we could write a book on all the really bad things that can and have happened while jacking up our cars. Rob > On Dec 25, 2016, at 2:34 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > Don't think HF has what you want.? Don't think you can beat this (NFI): > > http://www.ebay.com/itm/Liftma ster-1-5-Ton-3300lb-Scissor- Jack-with-Force-Reduction- Drive/322368428129?_trksid= p2141725.c100338.m3726&_ trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3 DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D2015 0313114020%26meid%3D4095f99da4 1c468ca6e7d7567b28a111%26pid% 3D100338%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D30% 26sd%3D112156936669 > > I went looking for these a couple years ago and barely found one; looks like someone has gotten back in the business.? Only thing that I don't like is the handle comes out of the slot too easily. > > > On 12/25/2016 2:30 PM, i erbs wrote: >> I think I used to have one as I found the handle for one a few months ago :) >> I think the scissor jack makes more sense. I'll head to harbor freight? tomorrow. >> Funny how I never had a spare in the car during the 10 year use as a daily driver. But can't stop thinking about how important it is now. I have disk wheel and disk brakes, so I wont be able to borrow a spare form anyone in the club when we tour... >> >> Ira Erbs >> Portland,OR >>? ? ? ?_______? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? _______ >>? ? ? (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) >>? ? ? ? ? (_________________________) >>? ? ? ? ? ?BT7 engine and disk brakes ______________________________ _________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/ listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Jan 6 14:26:05 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2017 13:26:05 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Scissor jack References: <7E6379C4-B448-486D-97B8-F5852C509CC9@comcast.net> <426797236.2102518.1483736963644@mail.yahoo.com> hopefully I will never need to find out :) Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Fri, Jan 6, 2017 at 1:09 PM, rkeysor wrote: > Just got the geared scissor jack. Frankly, I don't think it is much > easier to crank than the typical jack. > > > On Friday, January 6, 2017 2:42 PM, i erbs wrote: > > > Thanks, > I bought scissor jack with a gear reduction option for fewer turns. > I need to make a handle extension. > I have never run with both a jack and a spare tire in over 40 years of > driving. No what I am older and wiser, I thought it might be a good idea :) > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > On Fri, Jan 6, 2017 at 8:52 AM, Michael Oritt > wrote: > > With 180-15R Michelin XAS tires inflated to 30 psi my 100's ground > clearance at front and rear frame cross-members is 7.5" which decreases to > 5.5" when all air is let out of a tire. > > This allows me to use a small 2-ton CarQuest scissor jack which carries > an MVP label and is similar to this one: > > http://www.toolpan.com/ATD- Tools-7462--2-Ton-Scissor- > Jack_p_1290.html?gdffi= d5de8d975e554fe98677ff5f83efd4 39&gd > > It collapses down to 4.5" and stows nicely in the compartment to the left > of the spare. > > Best--Michael Oritt > > > On Mon, Dec 26, 2016 at 12:55 PM, ROBERT A WESTCOTT <55healey at comcast.net> > wrote: > > Remamber folks, The scissor jack needs to be placed under the side of a > car when jacking. > > Placing one under the rear crossmember without chocking the front wheels > will allow the car to roll forward off the jack allowing it to tip forward > so the scissor jack screw > can punch a 1/2? hole in the rear skirt panel under the bumper. Don?t ask > me how I know. > > By the way, if the car happened to roll backward, the other side of the > screw would have punched that 1/2? hole in the almost full gas tank dumping > all that gas on the shop floor. > > I think we could write a book on all the really bad things that can and > have happened while jacking up our cars. > > Rob > > > On Dec 25, 2016, at 2:34 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > > > Don't think HF has what you want. Don't think you can beat this (NFI): > > > > http://www.ebay.com/itm/Liftma ster-1-5-Ton-3300lb-Scissor- > Jack-with-Force-Reduction- Drive/322368428129?_trksid= > p2141725.c100338.m3726&_ trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3 > DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D2015 0313114020%26meid%3D4095f99da4 > 1c468ca6e7d7567b28a111%26pid% 3D100338%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D30% > 26sd%3D112156936669 > > > > I went looking for these a couple years ago and barely found one; looks > like someone has gotten back in the business. Only thing that I don't like > is the handle comes out of the slot too easily. > > > > > > On 12/25/2016 2:30 PM, i erbs wrote: > >> I think I used to have one as I found the handle for one a few months > ago :) > >> I think the scissor jack makes more sense. I'll head to harbor freight > tomorrow. > >> Funny how I never had a spare in the car during the 10 year use as a > daily driver. But can't stop thinking about how important it is now. I have > disk wheel and disk brakes, so I wont be able to borrow a spare form anyone > in the club when we tour... > >> > >> Ira Erbs > >> Portland,OR > >> _______ _______ > >> (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > >> (_________________________) > >> BT7 engine and disk brakes > > ______________________________ _________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.htm l > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/ listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/michael.oritt@ gmail.com > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rkeysor@ > bellsouth.net > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bluehealey at gmail.com Fri Jan 6 14:39:05 2017 From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Bluehealey) Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2017 21:39:05 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Body/Batch numbers Team. I have request of your global wisdom. A friend here in Hampshire, UK is restoring an imported BN4. It is a first time classic for him having spent a number of years building Caterham's and such like. The documentation with the car is enough to get it legitimately registered but he doesn't have the Body/Batch firewall tag and none of the docs carries the detail. What we have from Heritage etc. is: BN4 December 1958 Chassis Number = BN4L/74628 Body Number = 10079 Can anybody out there infer from this what the Batch number might have been? Many thanks. AlanB Bluehealey Alan - from my iPad -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From goldengt at cal.net Fri Jan 6 20:19:16 2017 From: goldengt at cal.net (goldengt at cal.net) Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2017 19:19:16 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] 100 stamped aluminium trim screws I am confused by the Roger Moment articles, Moss catalog, and BCS catalog on the proper screws for the aluminium sill and shut face plates for a BN2. Should it be #6 or #4 and should it be pan head, truss head, or pozidrive with integral flange?I did #4 truss head on my BJ8 which might be wrong.Thanks,Ken Freese -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey100m at me.com Sat Jan 7 00:49:23 2017 From: healey100m at me.com (Randy Hicks) Date: Sat, 07 Jan 2017 02:49:23 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100 stamped aluminium trim screws References: <488416443.3962672.1483759156719.JavaMail.zimbra@cal.net> Ken, might be what you are looking for from the 2017 Austin Healey Concours Guidelines released yesterday: "Door Seals and Alloy Trim Plates On BN1/2's, door seals consisted of one hard "Furflex"-covered rubber bulb on the forward door pillar edge with the tail of the furflex glued to the back edge of the inside kick panel, but as it reached the dashboard mounting flange, it was notched to skip over to the outboard edge of the flange where it was sandwiched between the windshield post bracket and the door pillar edge to continue to the top of the door pillar, with the top end hidden behind the scuttle seal assembly. A second strip of furflex was sandwiched between the door trim panel and door casing at the front of the door, and a third and fourth strip was fitted to the back edge of the door, one above and one below the door lock aperture. The lower edge of the door was sealed by a strip of quarter-round rubber along the outer lower edge of the door casing. Furflex generally matched the interior trim panel colour, though shades may have varied. On blue interiors, it was a light gray color. On BN1/2s and Longbridge-built BN4s, screws on the aluminum door shut facing have the same head as those used to attach the door trim panels (countersunk chromed #6 oval Phillips head sheet metal screws as opposed to the unique style used on the 6 cylinder cars). From the introduction of the Abingdon BN6 through possibly the end of BJ7 production, the shut facing was fastened with small, #4 truss-headed Phillips screws with very small cross-head screwdriver slots. Starting around 1963 or 1964 the screw head was changed from Phillips to Pozidriv. This type of head has been seen on an original BJ8 built in 1966. On late BJ8s some cars have been found with a "washer" molded into the screw head. It is suggested that you look at the predominant type of screw head on your car to try to determine which style was original. This will only work if you have good reason to suspect the trim screws are original, or mostly so. (See Photo ? Figure VI-2). On BN1/2s and Longbridge BN4 models the door shut plate has grained vinyl piping, which usually approximately matches the colour of the car exterior, separating it from the rear fender. On later 6-cylinder models the door shut plate has black, grained vinyl piping separating it from the rear fender. On the 4-cylinder cars, the door shut face piping simply tucks under the alloy trim plate as it reaches the top edge of the trim plate. " Randy Randy Hicks Austin Healey Concours Registry Committee AHCA 100 Registrar www.austinhealey100m.com > On Jan 6, 2017, at 10:19 PM, goldengt at cal.net wrote: > > I am confused by the Roger Moment articles, Moss catalog, and BCS catalog on the proper screws for the aluminium sill and shut face plates for a BN2. Should it be #6 or #4 and should it be pan head, truss head, or pozidrive with integral flange? > I did #4 truss head on my BJ8 which might be wrong. > Thanks, > Ken Freese > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m at me.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sat Jan 7 01:44:16 2017 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2017 03:44:16 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100 stamped aluminium trim screws References: <488416443.3962672.1483759156719.JavaMail.zimbra@cal.net> <360DBC02-743F-4FBF-ADF3-78E2602167DA@me.com> Hi Ken, Here is a photo of the screws used on a very original BN1 that I studied some time back. Details here . [image: Inline image 2] The screws were as described in the Concours Guidelines and mentioned by Randy " *countersunk chromed #6 oval Phillips head sheet metal screws".* Michael S BN1 #174 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 649762 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rkeysor at bellsouth.net Sat Jan 7 07:09:29 2017 From: rkeysor at bellsouth.net (rkeysor) Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2017 14:09:29 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Scissor jack References: <7E6379C4-B448-486D-97B8-F5852C509CC9@comcast.net> <426797236.2102518.1483736963644@mail.yahoo.com> Nope, haven't used my jack. ?I have put 80 or 90,000 miles on my '92 Porsche 968, and I have never had to change a tire at roadside using the aluminum scissor jack the came with that car. ?After the purchase of my Healey in January 2013, I drove to Jacksonville from Meadows of Dan, VA, sans jack, knockoff hammer and with a truly vintage Michelin X spare. ?I have yet to have a flat on this car. ?My big problem getting home was the Toyota five speed (the Healey gear box was riding in my friend's ?truck bed). ?Though I didn't know it, the large nylon (?) bushing in the top of the shift tower was totally absent. ?So when I went to take ?5th gear as I accelerated out onto the interstates, I kept getting third gear. ?And I made a lot of stops, as the fuel gauge showed empty when I probably had six gallons in the tank. ?When we overnighted in Orangeburg, SC, the car wouldn't start. ?Luckily ?a former MG owner happened by and suggested getting starting fluid, and we did that as soon as the first car parts store opened. Later found the jets and choke weren't functioning properly. Worst drive of my life! ?As for the scissors jack, I like to use it under the front suspension to take the wheel/etc. weight off the small rubber bumpers. ?Hard to get a floor jack in there. On Friday, January 6, 2017 4:26 PM, i erbs wrote: hopefully I will never need to find out :) Ira ErbsPortland,OR? ? ? _______ ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?_______ ? ?? (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) ? ? ? ?? (_________________________)? ? ? ? ? BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Fri, Jan 6, 2017 at 1:09 PM, rkeysor wrote: Just got the geared scissor jack. ?Frankly, I don't think it is much easier to crank than the typical jack. On Friday, January 6, 2017 2:42 PM, i erbs wrote: Thanks,?I bought scissor jack with a gear reduction option for fewer turns.?I need to make a handle extension.I have never run with both a jack and a spare tire in over 40 years of driving. No what I am older and wiser, I thought it might be a good idea :) Ira ErbsPortland,OR? ? ? _______ ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?_______ ? ?? (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) ? ? ? ?? (_________________________)? ? ? ? ? BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Fri, Jan 6, 2017 at 8:52 AM, Michael Oritt wrote: With 180-15R Michelin XAS tires inflated to 30 psi my 100's ground clearance at front and rear frame cross-members is 7.5" which decreases to 5.5" when all air is let out of a tire. This allows me to use a small 2-ton CarQuest scissor jack which carries an MVP label and is similar to this one: http://www.toolpan.com/ATD- Tools-7462--2-Ton-Scissor- Jack_p_1290.html?gdffi= d5de8d975e554fe98677ff5f83efd4 39&gd It collapses down to 4.5" and stows nicely in the compartment to the left of the spare. ? Best--Michael Oritt On Mon, Dec 26, 2016 at 12:55 PM, ROBERT A WESTCOTT <55healey at comcast.net> wrote: Remamber folks,? The scissor jack needs to be placed under the side of a car when jacking. Placing one under the rear crossmember without chocking the front wheels will allow the car to roll forward off the jack allowing it to tip forward so the scissor jack screw can punch a 1/2? hole in the rear skirt panel under the bumper.? Don?t ask me how I know. By the way, if the car happened to roll backward, the other side of the screw would have punched that 1/2? hole in the almost full gas tank dumping all that gas on the shop floor. I think we could write a book on all the really bad things that can and have happened while jacking up our cars. Rob > On Dec 25, 2016, at 2:34 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > Don't think HF has what you want.? Don't think you can beat this (NFI): > > http://www.ebay.com/itm/Liftma ster-1-5-Ton-3300lb-Scissor- Jack-with-Force-Reduction- Drive/322368428129?_trksid= p2141725.c100338.m3726&_ trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3 DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D2015 0313114020%26meid%3D4095f99da4 1c468ca6e7d7567b28a111%26pid% 3D100338%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D30% 26sd%3D112156936669 > > I went looking for these a couple years ago and barely found one; looks like someone has gotten back in the business.? Only thing that I don't like is the handle comes out of the slot too easily. > > > On 12/25/2016 2:30 PM, i erbs wrote: >> I think I used to have one as I found the handle for one a few months ago :) >> I think the scissor jack makes more sense. I'll head to harbor freight? tomorrow. >> Funny how I never had a spare in the car during the 10 year use as a daily driver. But can't stop thinking about how important it is now. I have disk wheel and disk brakes, so I wont be able to borrow a spare form anyone in the club when we tour... >> >> Ira Erbs >> Portland,OR >>? ? ? ?_______? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? _______ >>? ? ? (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) >>? ? ? ? ? (_________________________) >>? ? ? ? ? ?BT7 engine and disk brakes ______________________________ _________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/ listinfo/healeys ______________________________ _________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/ listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey100m at me.com Sat Jan 7 08:19:43 2017 From: healey100m at me.com (Randy Hicks) Date: Sat, 07 Jan 2017 10:19:43 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Concours Guidelines References: <88654227.106548.1483783106369.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <88654227.106548.1483783106369@mail.yahoo.com> Hi Mike, if you contact Mike Osipik (below) he will give you a couple options on receiving a copy of the Guidelines package. He can download it through DropBox (immediately available to you) or he can send you a CD. DropBox is very easy. (816) 729-9119 Home Randy Randy Hicks Austin Healey Concours Registry Committee AHCA 100 Registrar ahca100registrar at gmail.com www.austinhealey100m.com > On Jan 7, 2017, at 4:58 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: > > Randy, > How do I get a copy of the guidelines? > Mike MacLean > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Sat Jan 7 10:28:54 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2017 12:28:54 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Body/Batch numbers References: <423E689C-8409-43D1-BA98-75670845D9C8@gmail.com> Alan, I sent your email to Mell Ward who is the 6 cylinder registrar in the UK. Her reply included: chassis batch body 74612 3007 10181 74620 3007 10088 74628 ? 10079 She would assume that chassis 74628 is batch 3007. Mell suggested that your friend to contact her if he'd like any additional help. Her email address is mellward at icloud.com. I also sent the email to Gary Feldman, the AHCA 100-6 registrar. Will let you know if Gary has any additional info. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 01/06/2017 04:39 PM, Bluehealey wrote: > Team. > I have request of your global wisdom. A friend here in Hampshire, UK is > restoring an imported BN4. It is a first time classic for him having > spent a number of years building Caterham's and such like. > The documentation with the car is enough to get it legitimately > registered but he doesn't have the Body/Batch firewall tag and none of > the docs carries the detail. What we have from Heritage etc. is: > > BN4 December 1958 > > Chassis Number = BN4L/74628 > > Body Number = 10079 > > > Can anybody out there infer from this what the Batch number might have been? > > Many thanks. > > AlanB > > Bluehealey > > > Alan - from my iPad > From cnaarndt at gmail.com Sat Jan 7 11:34:54 2017 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt) Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2017 10:34:54 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Body/Batch numbers References: <423E689C-8409-43D1-BA98-75670845D9C8@gmail.com> Alan, I don't have that specific information, but here are some photos of my neighbors very early all numbers matching BN4 with the batch body number tag. At least a place to start. Curt [image: Inline image 1] [image: Inline image 2] On Fri, Jan 6, 2017 at 1:39 PM, Bluehealey wrote: > Team. > I have request of your global wisdom. A friend here in Hampshire, UK is > restoring an imported BN4. It is a first time classic for him having spent > a number of years building Caterham's and such like. > The documentation with the car is enough to get it legitimately registered > but he doesn't have the Body/Batch firewall tag and none of the docs > carries the detail. What we have from Heritage etc. is: > > BN4 December 1958 > > Chassis Number = BN4L/74628 > > Body Number = 10079 > > > Can anybody out there infer from this what the Batch number might have > been? > > Many thanks. > > AlanB > > Bluehealey > > Alan - from my iPad > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 1981259 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 4070343 bytes Desc: not available URL: From cnaarndt at gmail.com Sat Jan 7 11:42:22 2017 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt) Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2017 10:42:22 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] 100 stamped aluminium trim screws References: <488416443.3962672.1483759156719.JavaMail.zimbra@cal.net> <360DBC02-743F-4FBF-ADF3-78E2602167DA@me.com> Gentlemen, Also notice in Michael's photo the very "square" + profile of the Phillips head inset. This was unique to BN1's and the style changed slightly later on with the BN2s and subsequent cars, and is more like what you can purchase new from various vendors. This is what makes restoring a BN1 a bit of a challenge with regard to fasteners. Cheers, Curt Arndt AH Concours Registry Chairman On Sat, Jan 7, 2017 at 12:44 AM, Michael Salter wrote: > Hi Ken, > Here is a photo of the screws used on a very original BN1 that I studied > some time back. Details here . > > > [image: Inline image 2] > > The screws were as described in the Concours Guidelines and mentioned by > Randy " > > *countersunk chromed #6 oval Phillips head sheet metal screws".* > Michael S > BN1 #174 > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 649762 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bluehealey at gmail.com Sat Jan 7 11:44:05 2017 From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Bluehealey) Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2017 18:44:05 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Body/Batch numbers References: <423E689C-8409-43D1-BA98-75670845D9C8@gmail.com> <58712556.3040409@earthlink.net> That's a big help Bob. I never thought about Mell perhaps having details. The fact the car came back from the States made me assume that the knowledge would be your side of the pond. I'll follow that up. Best regards. Alan - from my iPad > On 7 Jan 2017, at 17:28, Bob Haskell wrote: > > Alan, > > I sent your email to Mell Ward who is the 6 cylinder registrar in the UK. Her reply included: > > chassis batch body > 74612 3007 10181 > 74620 3007 10088 > > 74628 ? 10079 > > She would assume that chassis 74628 is batch 3007. Mell suggested that your friend to contact her if he'd like any additional help. Her email address is mellward at icloud.com. > > I also sent the email to Gary Feldman, the AHCA 100-6 registrar. Will let you know if Gary has any additional info. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > >> On 01/06/2017 04:39 PM, Bluehealey wrote: >> Team. >> I have request of your global wisdom. A friend here in Hampshire, UK is >> restoring an imported BN4. It is a first time classic for him having >> spent a number of years building Caterham's and such like. >> The documentation with the car is enough to get it legitimately >> registered but he doesn't have the Body/Batch firewall tag and none of >> the docs carries the detail. What we have from Heritage etc. is: >> >> BN4 December 1958 >> >> Chassis Number = BN4L/74628 >> >> Body Number = 10079 >> >> >> Can anybody out there infer from this what the Batch number might have been? >> >> Many thanks. >> >> AlanB >> >> Bluehealey >> >> >> Alan - from my iPad >> From jc9821 at msn.com Sat Jan 7 12:04:51 2017 From: jc9821 at msn.com (John and Judy Carter) Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2017 19:04:51 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 8 References: My Harbor Freight scissors jack collapsed on the first use. Piece of junk. ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of healeys-request at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, January 6, 2017 2:00 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 8 Send Healeys mailing list submissions to healeys at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net autox.team.net To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to healeys-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at healeys-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." Today's Topics: 1. BN4 reflector rubbers (Austin Healeys List) 2. BN6 Tyres (Neil McDonald) 3. Re: BN4 reflector rubbers (David Nock BCS) 4. Re: Scissor jack (Michael Oritt) 5. Re: Scissor jack (i erbs) 6. Re: BN4 reflector rubbers (josef-eckert at t-online.de) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2017 14:29:02 +1300 From: Austin Healeys List To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BN4 reflector rubbers Message-ID: My BN4 reflector rubbers are very tired and likely to fall out, but it seems nobody has reproduced them yet. Apart from fitting the later style flat ones, what options are there for keeping the 'bullets'? If nothing is available then I'll try casting them in polyurethane rubber. In anticipation of nothing available, I made a quick model of the rubber but it is so perished much of the detail is lost. Would anyone have an original rubber in reasonable condition to get some dimensions off or a pic of please? Andy. -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: reflector.png Type: image/png Size: 184361 bytes Desc: not available URL: ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2017 12:53:54 +0000 From: Neil McDonald To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Tyres Discovered this very interesting picture from the Longstone Tyres (UK) website illustrating different Healey tyre options. The middle tyre with a white label is the original 590/15 and the two on the right hand end are the very common 165/15 radial replacements which Moss Motors recommends and are as currently fitted to my car. Longstone recommends the Michelin XAS 180HR15 pictured on the immediate right of the 590/15 - apparently for all big Healeys. Note the different diameters! In view of ground clearance concerns it seems to me that 180/15 is the way to go. However checking these same tyres on the Coker (US) website, they say that they are intended for 5-6.5 inch rims..... but the BN6 only has 4" rims! Should I be concerned at this apparent Longstone-Coker-Moss conflict? -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0427.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 25328 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- _____________________ Neil McDonald Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2017 08:37:26 -0800 From: "David Nock BCS" To: "Austin Healeys List" , Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN4 reflector rubbers reply-type=original Get the later style reflectors, pull them apart to install and then install the cones. If you need the cones we have them available. David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com British Car Specialists - Stockton CA - Land Rover ... www.britishcarspecialists.com Specializes in providing restoration services and selling parts. Includes information about service, parts, and restoration procedures. -----Original Message----- From: Austin Healeys List Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2017 5:29 PM To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BN4 reflector rubbers My BN4 reflector rubbers are very tired and likely to fall out, but it seems nobody has reproduced them yet. Apart from fitting the later style flat ones, what options are there for keeping the 'bullets'? If nothing is available then I'll try casting them in polyurethane rubber. In anticipation of nothing available, I made a quick model of the rubber but it is so perished much of the detail is lost. Would anyone have an original rubber in reasonable condition to get some dimensions off or a pic of please? Andy. _______________________________________________ www.team.net www.team.net The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2017 11:52:28 -0500 From: Michael Oritt To: ROBERT A WESTCOTT <55healey at comcast.net> Cc: Ahealey help , i erbs Subject: Re: [Healeys] Scissor jack Message-ID: With 180-15R Michelin XAS tires inflated to 30 psi my 100's ground clearance at front and rear frame cross-members is 7.5" which decreases to 5.5" when all air is let out of a tire. This allows me to use a small 2-ton CarQuest scissor jack which carries an MVP label and is similar to this one: http://www.toolpan.com/ATD-Tools-7462--2-Ton-Scissor-Jack_p_1290.html?gdffi=d5de8d975e554fe98677ff5f83efd439&gd It collapses down to 4.5" and stows nicely in the compartment to the left of the spare. Best--Michael Oritt On Mon, Dec 26, 2016 at 12:55 PM, ROBERT A WESTCOTT <55healey at comcast.net> wrote: > Remamber folks, The scissor jack needs to be placed under the side of a > car when jacking. > > Placing one under the rear crossmember without chocking the front wheels > will allow the car to roll forward off the jack allowing it to tip forward > so the scissor jack screw > can punch a 1/2? hole in the rear skirt panel under the bumper. Don?t ask > me how I know. > > By the way, if the car happened to roll backward, the other side of the > screw would have punched that 1/2? hole in the almost full gas tank dumping > all that gas on the shop floor. > > I think we could write a book on all the really bad things that can and > have happened while jacking up our cars. > > Rob > > > On Dec 25, 2016, at 2:34 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > > > Don't think HF has what you want. Don't think you can beat this (NFI): > > > > http://www.ebay.com/itm/Liftmaster-1-5-Ton-3300lb- > Scissor-Jack-with-Force-Reduction-Drive/322368428129?_ > trksid=p2141725.c100338.m3726&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo% > 3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20150313114020%26meid% > 3D4095f99da41c468ca6e7d7567b28a111%26pid%3D100338%26rk%3D1% > 26rkt%3D30%26sd%3D112156936669 > > > > I went looking for these a couple years ago and barely found one; looks > like someone has gotten back in the business. Only thing that I don't like > is the handle comes out of the slot too easily. > > > > > > On 12/25/2016 2:30 PM, i erbs wrote: > >> I think I used to have one as I found the handle for one a few months > ago :) > >> I think the scissor jack makes more sense. I'll head to harbor freight > tomorrow. > >> Funny how I never had a spare in the car during the 10 year use as a > daily driver. But can't stop thinking about how important it is now. I have > disk wheel and disk brakes, so I wont be able to borrow a spare form anyone > in the club when we tour... > >> > >> Ira Erbs > >> Portland,OR > >> _______ _______ > >> (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > >> (_________________________) > >> BT7 engine and disk brakes > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2017 09:55:19 -0800 From: i erbs To: Michael Oritt Cc: Ahealey help Subject: Re: [Healeys] Scissor jack Message-ID: Thanks, I bought scissor jack with a gear reduction option for fewer turns. I need to make a handle extension. I have never run with both a jack and a spare tire in over 40 years of driving. No what I am older and wiser, I thought it might be a good idea :) Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Fri, Jan 6, 2017 at 8:52 AM, Michael Oritt wrote: > With 180-15R Michelin XAS tires inflated to 30 psi my 100's ground > clearance at front and rear frame cross-members is 7.5" which decreases to > 5.5" when all air is let out of a tire. > > This allows me to use a small 2-ton CarQuest scissor jack which carries > an MVP label and is similar to this one: > > http://www.toolpan.com/ATD-Tools-7462--2-Ton-Scissor- > Jack_p_1290.html?gdffi=d5de8d975e554fe98677ff5f83efd439&gd > > It collapses down to 4.5" and stows nicely in the compartment to the left > of the spare. > > Best--Michael Oritt > > > On Mon, Dec 26, 2016 at 12:55 PM, ROBERT A WESTCOTT <55healey at comcast.net> > wrote: > >> Remamber folks, The scissor jack needs to be placed under the side of a >> car when jacking. >> >> Placing one under the rear crossmember without chocking the front wheels >> will allow the car to roll forward off the jack allowing it to tip forward >> so the scissor jack screw >> can punch a 1/2? hole in the rear skirt panel under the bumper. Don?t >> ask me how I know. >> >> By the way, if the car happened to roll backward, the other side of the >> screw would have punched that 1/2? hole in the almost full gas tank dumping >> all that gas on the shop floor. >> >> I think we could write a book on all the really bad things that can and >> have happened while jacking up our cars. >> >> Rob >> >> > On Dec 25, 2016, at 2:34 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: >> > >> > Don't think HF has what you want. Don't think you can beat this (NFI): >> > >> > http://www.ebay.com/itm/Liftmaster-1-5-Ton-3300lb-Scissor- >> Jack-with-Force-Reduction-Drive/322368428129?_trksid= >> p2141725.c100338.m3726&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3 >> DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20150313114020%26meid%3D4095f99da4 >> 1c468ca6e7d7567b28a111%26pid%3D100338%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D30% >> 26sd%3D112156936669 >> > >> > I went looking for these a couple years ago and barely found one; looks >> like someone has gotten back in the business. Only thing that I don't like >> is the handle comes out of the slot too easily. >> > >> > >> > On 12/25/2016 2:30 PM, i erbs wrote: >> >> I think I used to have one as I found the handle for one a few months >> ago :) >> >> I think the scissor jack makes more sense. I'll head to harbor >> freight tomorrow. >> >> Funny how I never had a spare in the car during the 10 year use as a >> daily driver. But can't stop thinking about how important it is now. I have >> disk wheel and disk brakes, so I wont be able to borrow a spare form anyone >> in the club when we tour... >> >> >> >> Ira Erbs >> >> Portland,OR >> >> _______ _______ >> >> (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) >> >> (_________________________) >> >> BT7 engine and disk brakes >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com >> >> > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2017 19:13:22 +0100 (MET) From: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" To: Austin Healeys List , "Healeys, Forum" Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN4 reflector rubbers Message-ID: <1483726402369.71118.9b03844164d7b9a2ff6e52d4d25ff52a4f366056 at spica.telekom.de> Andy, You can get the complette reflector new from SC Parts UK: http://www.scparts.co.uk/sc_en/british-cars/austin-healey/austin-healey-bn1-to-bj8-1952-1968/electrics-ignition-system-heating-and-dashboard/lamps.html#84 see 84, PartNo 206240 Josef Eckert Konigswinter/Germany -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: [Healeys] BN4 reflector rubbers Datum: 2017-01-06T05:01:21+0100 Von: "Austin Healeys List" An: "Healeys at autox.team.net" My BN4 reflector rubbers are very tired and likely to fall out, but it seems nobody has reproduced them yet. Apart from fitting the later style flat ones, what options are there for keeping the 'bullets'? If nothing is available then I'll try casting them in polyurethane rubber. In anticipation of nothing available, I made a quick model of the rubber but it is so perished much of the detail is lost. Would anyone have an original rubber in reasonable condition to get some dimensions off or a pic of please? Andy. ? ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ Healeys mailing list Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys ------------------------------ End of Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 8 ************************************** [http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20170106/f4ca738e/attachment-0001.png] -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From 050.rpl at gmail.com Sat Jan 7 12:25:36 2017 From: 050.rpl at gmail.com (R. Lindsay) Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2017 14:25:36 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Washer Reservoir Bracket Color What is the proper color for the washer reservoir bracket on a 67 BJ8? How many ?Tudor? labels are attached to the reservoir? Is there a specific height on the reservoir? Many thanks! Price Lindsay 67 BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From roggrace at telus.net Sat Jan 7 19:32:52 2017 From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace) Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2017 18:32:52 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive References: <024d01d266a1$bbe74770$33b5d650$@rr.com> OosOcqMoHaZXmOosPcOLnf I currently have my BJ8 OD in a ?a thousand pieces? ! Prior to stripping, I too built up a similar test rig but 240V variable speed with 3 ph motor as well. See pix. This rig was invaluable to help diagnose: - low pressure that turned out to be a bad accumulator and piston rings; replacing with modern O ring style and new accumulator spring; used compressed air to extract the accumulator. - confirm that front oil leak was GB front seal and not rear main ... phew! - that brake ring flange was leaking oil; hopefully now fixed with Locktite 518; also leaks at adaptor flanges - new gaskets plus Hylomar. - bad main clutch bearing; unit was noisy in direct 4th gear but much quieter in OD; this bearing only works in direct drive and not in OD; it was shot and interestingly could only be heard on test rig and not when in car with road and engine noise. Plan to run the transmission for several hours prior to reinstalling in car to get up to temp and check the leak enemy. Thinking ahead, was looking and making one of Michael S?s famous oil pump release tools; have done a few dry runs using the wire method and wonder why MS chose the wire tool over holding the spring with some thin wire as others have done ? rg From: Michael Salter Sent: Wednesday, January 4, 2017 8:47 AM To: BJ8Healeys Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive Hi Steve, Best wishes for a Happy and Prosperous New Year. Yep those symptoms mostly make sense. "The first time it would engage when cold, but not when hot. The accumulator walls were severely gouged, probably from too much debris in the oil from not having been changed frequently enough before I got the car. I found no other problems. I concluded that the massive leakage prevented the accumulator piston from moving back far enough against the spring to direct the oil to the metering pin." In this case unfortunately you don't mention the pre-repair test pressures but they would have been quite low, probably 300 odd cold and below 250 hot, meaning that there was not enough pressure to move the clutch against the springs. I would imagine that as your drove and the oil heated up the unit would have started to slip and then dropped out of overdrive altogether. The second time, the overdrive was slow to engage, felt like it was slipping, and would make a whirring noise as it tried to do so. I put a gauge on the O/D and went for a drive. I was reading 350 psi before the O/D switch was flipped, dropping to 100 psi at it tried to engage and back up to 350 - 365 psi after engagement. I found a broken accumulator piston ring and a loose ring in the bottom of the accumulator bore. After correcting that (and a broken thrust washer behind the planetaries), I read 450 psi before flipping the O/D switch and 250 psi as it engaged. I neglected to record the recovery pressure. This was done on a test rig and I did not repeat the test on the road since the O/D worked perfectly after reinstallation in the car. In this case the pressure during engagement is a little low but that is, as you found, probably due to damage in the accumulator. I'm surprised to hear that it slipped with a 350 -360 engaged pressure but that may have had something to do with the broken thrust preventing full travel of the clutch member...not sure about that one.. I have experienced that whirring noise on some units as well I suspect it is the unidirectional clutch slipping.. I envy your test rig...I always intended to build one but I never got a round tuit... M On Wed, Jan 4, 2017 at 10:46 AM, BJ8Healeys wrote: Mike, what I mentioned to Neil is that both times I have had problems with my overdrive failing to engage, or engaging sluggishly, the problem was the accumulator. The first time it would engage when cold, but not when hot. The accumulator walls were severely gouged, probably from too much debris in the oil from not having been changed frequently enough before I got the car. I found no other problems. I concluded that the massive leakage prevented the accumulator piston from moving back far enough against the spring to direct the oil to the metering pin. The second time, the overdrive was slow to engage, felt like it was slipping, and would make a whirring noise as it tried to do so. I put a gauge on the O/D and went for a drive. I was reading 350 psi before the O/D switch was flipped, dropping to 100 psi at it tried to engage and back up to 350 - 365 psi after engagement. I found a broken accumulator piston ring and a loose ring in the bottom of the accumulator bore. After correcting that (and a broken thrust washer behind the planetaries), I read 450 psi before flipping the O/D switch and 250 psi as it engaged. I neglected to record the recovery pressure. This was done on a test rig and I did not repeat the test on the road since the O/D worked perfectly after reinstallation in the car. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Salter Sent: Wednesday, January 04, 2017 9:53 AM To: Neil McDonald Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive Hi again Neil, With all due respects to Steve I would not suspect the accumulator because it is in the hydraulic circuit ahead of the operating valve. If the accumulator was leaking badly enough to prevent the overdrive from engaging you would never see 390 p.s.i. if you are testing at the operating valve plug with the ball and spring in position. Although the specified pressure for our units is 470 - 490 p.s.i. I have never seen one achieve 490 p.s.i. and have found units that operated quite satisfactorily with pressures as low as 300 p.s.i. hot. Someone suggested running the car on stands and manually lifting the valve setting lever. That is how I test for correct operation BUT PLEASE be ware of that driveshaft spinning next to your right hip. Getting yourself tangled up in that will ruin your day. Michael S BN1 #174 On Wed, Jan 4, 2017 at 6:05 AM, Neil McDonald wrote: Yesterday I wrote "I have concluded that the most likely cause of my problems are low OD fluid levels and/or inadequate opening of the actuating valve. Both I can readily deal with." In off line discussions with Steve Byers I have added a third and ominous possibility, a defective accumulator. The good hydraulic pressure already confirmed only indicates that the pump is OK because testing was not done while trying to engage the OD. My understanding is that OD engagement is the accumulator's function and the pump's role is to pressurise the accumulator for this task before OD engagement. A definitive test of accumulator condition seems to be how well it holds pressure after the engine is switched off! _____________________ Neil McDonald Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com -- If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2016.0.7996 / Virus Database: 4749/13725 - Release Date: 01/07/17 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20161117_130718.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 227263 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20161117_130649.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 242176 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healey100m at me.com Sat Jan 7 19:37:49 2017 From: healey100m at me.com (Randy Hicks) Date: Sat, 07 Jan 2017 21:37:49 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Washer Reservoir Bracket Color References: <43CEEA27-6E42-420B-80D9-C1000116A0F4@gmail.com> Price, I?m promoting the Austin Healey 2017 Concours Guidelines today! ? See if this helps: Windshield Washer Bottle 100 ? Had no windshield washer as standard fitting though it was available as an accessory on late BN1s and all BN2s. 100 Six, 3000 Location: through the BJ7, the windshield washer bottle is mounted into the package tray inside the interior. These bottles and mountings are described in the interior section. On BJ8s, with the revision of the interior to incorporate the walnut fascia and glove box, the bottle holding windshield washer liquid was moved to the engine compartment. On these cars, the bottle is made of white plastic with a plastic screw top. Bottle: Longbridge BN4's used a Trafalgar glass bottle (17H579) (see Photos ? Figure III-8 a- d); a Tudor plastic bottle (37H9798) was introduced at Abingdon sometime prior to BN4 C. 68960 (this would have been before BN4 production was temporarily halted in spring1958). The Glass bottle (17H579) was also used on early BN6s up through C. 1182 (built in May ?58, according to Clausager). The BN4 Service Parts List shows another 1 1?2? neck diameter container (37H9763) followed by a 2 3/16? diameter neck one (37H9729) introduced when BN4 production resumed at C. 68960 (in Sept. 1958). This same wide-mouth bottle (37H9729) is also listed in the BN6 Service Parts List as being introduced at BN6/1183, which would have been built well before BN4 C. 68960, so it is not clear exactly what the differences between the first two plastic BN4 bottles was, and when they were used. 25 On original BJ7s a metal squirrel cage has been found. On BJ8s, in 1964 and also later, white plastic squirrel cages have been found. A plastic bottle was used on non-BN4 six cylinder cars. 3000?s On Phase I BJ8s the bottle is plain, with no logo/markings, and sits in a metal support frame painted black. Cast into the bottom of the plastic bottle is the location of the ?Tudor? company and other information. On Phase II BJ8s there is a large trademark screened onto the side of the bottle, consisting of the word "Tudor" reversed out in white on a distinctive bright blue background. (The Tudor trademark on these bottles definitely was not a separate decal.) The screened logo color may vary a bit between cars as a result of aging. On Phase II cars, the metal frame is a slightly different shape and is painted a shade of blue which was a bit lighter than the Tudor trademark. There also was an evolution of bottle cap and outlet shapes (see Figure III-7a-e for examples and detailed descriptions). The 2017 Concours Guidelines are an incredible series of documents detailing how Big Healeys (and Sprites - separate document) were originally put together. if you contact Mike Osipik (below) he will give you a couple options on receiving a copy of the Guidelines package. He can download it through DropBox (immediately available to you) or he can send you a CD. DropBox is very easy. (816) 729-9119 Home Randy Randy Hicks Austin Healey Concours Registry Committee AHCA 100 Registrar ahca100registrar at gmail.com www.austinhealey100m.com > On Jan 7, 2017, at 2:25 PM, R. Lindsay <050.rpl at gmail.com> wrote: > > What is the proper color for the washer reservoir bracket on a 67 BJ8? How many ?Tudor? labels are attached to the reservoir? Is there a specific height on the reservoir? > > Many thanks! > > Price Lindsay > 67 BJ8 > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m at me.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cnaarndt at gmail.com Sat Jan 7 19:53:51 2017 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt) Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2017 18:53:51 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Washer Reservoir Bracket Color References: <43CEEA27-6E42-420B-80D9-C1000116A0F4@gmail.com> Price, The 2017 Concours Guidelines are just now available. Great set of color photos in the photo section of exactly what you need... Blue, three and ? Contact Mike Osipik for a copy. mikeosipik at gmail.com (816) 729-9119 Home Cheers, Curt On Sat, Jan 7, 2017 at 11:25 AM, R. Lindsay <050.rpl at gmail.com> wrote: > What is the proper color for the washer reservoir bracket on a 67 BJ8? > How many ?Tudor? labels are attached to the reservoir? Is there a specific > height on the reservoir? > > Many thanks! > > Price Lindsay > 67 BJ8 > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: AHConcoursOrderFormJan2017.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 130165 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sun Jan 8 11:34:31 2017 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sun, 8 Jan 2017 13:34:31 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive References: <024d01d266a1$bbe74770$33b5d650$@rr.com> <323E6DFB61EB4CDFA59567584C4DA877@WINDOWST93OFP9> Hi Roger, I developed the "special tool" after becoming totally frustrated with the thin wire method that I could never get to work reliably. It is a long time since I tackled the job that way but as I recall it is necessary to remove the wire before the overdrive is fully mated to the gearbox but do it too early and the pump plunger slips off the cam and too late and the wire get jammed. The "special tool" stays in place until the overdrive unit is tightened right up. The big problem with the "special tool" is where to keep between gearbox jobs so I can find it next time!!! Michael S BN1 #174 On Sat, Jan 7, 2017 at 9:32 PM, Roger Grace wrote: > I currently have my BJ8 OD in a ?a thousand pieces? ! > Prior to stripping, I too built up a similar test rig but 240V variable > speed with 3 ph motor as well. See pix. > > This rig was invaluable to help diagnose: > - low pressure that turned out to be a bad accumulator and piston > rings; replacing with modern O ring style and new accumulator spring; used > compressed air to extract the accumulator. > - confirm that front oil leak was GB front seal and not rear main ... > phew! > - that brake ring flange was leaking oil; hopefully now fixed with > Locktite 518; also leaks at adaptor flanges - new gaskets plus Hylomar. > - bad main clutch bearing; unit was noisy in direct 4th gear but much > quieter in OD; this bearing only works in direct drive and not in OD; it > was shot and interestingly could only be heard on test > rig and not when in car with road and engine noise. > > Plan to run the transmission for several hours prior to reinstalling in > car to get up to temp and check the leak enemy. > > Thinking ahead, was looking and making one of Michael S?s famous oil pump > release tools; have done a few dry runs using the wire method and wonder > why MS chose the wire tool over holding the spring with some thin wire as > others have done ? > rg > > > > > > > > *From:* Michael Salter > *Sent:* Wednesday, January 4, 2017 8:47 AM > *To:* BJ8Healeys > *Cc:* Healey List > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive > > Hi Steve, > Best wishes for a Happy and Prosperous New Year. > Yep those symptoms mostly make sense. > > *"The first time it would engage when cold, but not when hot. The > accumulator walls were severely gouged, probably from too much debris in > the oil from not having been changed frequently enough before I got the > car. I found no other problems. I concluded that the massive leakage > prevented the accumulator piston from moving back far enough against the > spring to direct the oil to the metering pin."* > In this case unfortunately you don't mention the pre-repair test pressures > but they would have been quite low, probably 300 odd cold and below 250 > hot, meaning that there was not enough pressure to move the clutch against > the springs. I would imagine that as your drove and the oil heated up the > unit would have started to slip and then dropped out of overdrive > altogether. > > > *The second time, the overdrive was slow to engage, felt like it was > slipping, and would make a whirring noise as it tried to do so. I put a > gauge on the O/D and went for a drive. I was reading 350 psi before the > O/D switch was flipped, dropping to 100 psi at it tried to engage and back > up to 350 - 365 psi after engagement. I found a broken accumulator piston > ring and a loose ring in the bottom of the accumulator bore. After > correcting that (and a broken thrust washer behind the planetaries), I read > 450 psi before flipping the O/D switch and 250 psi as it engaged. I > neglected to record the recovery pressure. This was done on a test rig and > I did not repeat the test on the road since the O/D worked perfectly after > reinstallation in the car.* > In this case the pressure during engagement is a little low but that is, > as you found, probably due to damage in the accumulator. I'm surprised to > hear that it slipped with a 350 -360 engaged pressure but that may have had > something to do with the broken thrust preventing full travel of the clutch > member...not sure about that one.. I have experienced that whirring > noise on some units as well I suspect it is the unidirectional clutch > slipping.. I envy your test rig...I always intended to build one but I > never got a round tuit... > M > > On Wed, Jan 4, 2017 at 10:46 AM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > >> Mike, what I mentioned to Neil is that both times I have had problems >> with my overdrive failing to engage, or engaging sluggishly, the problem >> was the accumulator. The first time it would engage when cold, but not >> when hot. The accumulator walls were severely gouged, probably from too >> much debris in the oil from not having been changed frequently enough >> before I got the car. I found no other problems. I concluded that the >> massive leakage prevented the accumulator piston from moving back far >> enough against the spring to direct the oil to the metering pin. >> >> The second time, the overdrive was slow to engage, felt like it was >> slipping, and would make a whirring noise as it tried to do so. I put a >> gauge on the O/D and went for a drive. I was reading 350 psi before the >> O/D switch was flipped, dropping to 100 psi at it tried to engage and back >> up to 350 - 365 psi after engagement. I found a broken accumulator piston >> ring and a loose ring in the bottom of the accumulator bore. After >> correcting that (and a broken thrust washer behind the planetaries), I read >> 450 psi before flipping the O/D switch and 250 psi as it engaged. I >> neglected to record the recovery pressure. This was done on a test rig and >> I did not repeat the test on the road since the O/D worked perfectly after >> reinstallation in the car. >> >> >> >> Steve Byers >> >> HBJ8L/36666 >> >> BJ8 Registry >> >> AHCA Delegate at Large >> >> Havelock, NC >> >> >> >> >> >> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Michael >> Salter >> *Sent:* Wednesday, January 04, 2017 9:53 AM >> *To:* Neil McDonald >> *Cc:* Healey List >> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive >> >> >> >> Hi again Neil, >> >> With all due respects to Steve I would not suspect the accumulator >> because it is in the hydraulic circuit ahead of the operating valve. >> >> If the accumulator was leaking badly enough to prevent the overdrive from >> engaging you would never see 390 p.s.i. if you are testing at the operating >> valve plug with the ball and spring in position. >> >> Although the specified pressure for our units is 470 - 490 p.s.i. I have >> never seen one achieve 490 p.s.i. and have found units that operated quite >> satisfactorily with pressures as low as 300 p.s.i. hot. >> >> Someone suggested running the car on stands and manually lifting the >> valve setting lever. That is how I test for correct operation BUT PLEASE be >> ware of that driveshaft spinning next to your right hip. Getting yourself >> tangled up in that will ruin your day. >> >> Michael S >> >> BN1 #174 >> >> >> >> On Wed, Jan 4, 2017 at 6:05 AM, Neil McDonald wrote: >> >> Yesterday I wrote "I have concluded that the most likely cause of my >> problems are low OD fluid levels and/or inadequate opening of the actuating >> valve. Both I can readily deal with." >> >> >> >> In off line discussions with Steve Byers I have added a third and ominous >> possibility, a defective accumulator. The good hydraulic pressure already >> confirmed only indicates that the pump is OK because testing was not done >> while trying to engage the OD. My understanding is that OD engagement is >> the accumulator's function and the pump's role is to pressurise the >> accumulator for this task *before* OD engagement. A definitive test of >> accumulator condition seems to be how well it holds pressure after the >> engine is switched off! >> >> _____________________ >> >> Neil McDonald >> >> >> >> Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com >> >> >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >> >> >> > > > -- > *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.* > > ------------------------------ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net > > ------------------------------ > > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 2016.0.7996 / Virus Database: 4749/13725 - Release Date: 01/07/17 > > -- *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Jan 8 19:34:35 2017 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2017 10:34:35 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Tyres References: The one interesting thing about running original style tyres is the balance of the car comes in to clear view, and being able to run with a full control four wheel slide can be done with these tyres. Safetywise they aren't as good, but really they are alot of fun to drive, and ultimately are much less hard on suspension components. Good thing is the original style tyres are now available in steel belted form, improving safety, effectively they are truck tyres. I use them on my Jag Mk IX and I love they way they run. On Fri, Jan 6, 2017 at 8:53 PM, Neil McDonald wrote: > Discovered this very interesting picture from the Longstone Tyres (UK) > website illustrating different Healey tyre options. The middle tyre with a > white label is the original 590/15 and the two on the right hand end are > the very common 165/15 radial replacements which Moss Motors recommends and > are as currently fitted to my car. > > Longstone recommends the Michelin XAS 180HR15 pictured on the immediate > right of the 590/15 - apparently for all big Healeys. Note the different > diameters! > > In view of ground clearance concerns it seems to me that 180/15 is the way > to go. However checking these same tyres on the Coker (US) website, they > say that they are intended for 5-6.5 inch rims..... but the BN6 only has 4" > rims! > > Should I be concerned at this apparent Longstone-Coker-Moss conflict? > > > > > _____________________ > Neil McDonald > > Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jarowe at westnet.com.au Sun Jan 8 21:17:26 2017 From: jarowe at westnet.com.au (John Rowe) Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2017 12:17:26 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey - travel from US to Canada Hi All I'm looking for some worldly wisdom about travel from the US to Canada. I am part of the Formula Junior world tour to celebrate the 60th Anniversary in 2018 and have my Lotus 18 in a container with 8 other FJs from WesternAustralia. The trip started in Perth in October 2016 and has already been to Melbourne and Sydney and is now in the north island of New Zealand. There are two race meetings in the north island and 3 more following in the south island. The container then heads for New York for at least 3 race meetings in June 2017 at Indianapolis, Mosport and Mid Ohio. Now the big question I have is what is the best way to transport 9 race cars around the mid US and Canada. We are looking at the possibility of trucking the container to each track in turn and hiring a crane to unload and load the container at the track. I should mention here that there will be at least 4 extra containers carrying UK and NZ cars doing the same thing. Our personal travel is another big issue. Most couples are looking at the hired RV route but the major problem is that the hired RVs cannot go into Canada from the US. If any one has any other ideas please share them. Kind regards John Rowe Perth 3000Mk 1 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Jan 8 23:32:13 2017 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2017 14:32:13 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey - travel from US to Canada References: <9e47846f-00f6-8eb8-e005-4d75aaa8edf8@westnet.com.au> Hi John - Usually the easiest way to move cars across the border is actually with you driving across the border, unfortunately. For whatever reason moving cars across the US Canada border is a right pain in the ass and involves VATs, paperwork, costs, etc. I don't know if that helps, but that's my opinion. Best, Alan On Mon, Jan 9, 2017 at 12:17 PM, John Rowe wrote: > Hi All > > I'm looking for some worldly wisdom about travel from the US to Canada. > > I am part of the Formula Junior world tour to celebrate the 60th > Anniversary in 2018 and have my Lotus 18 in a container with 8 other FJs > from WesternAustralia. > > The trip started in Perth in October 2016 and has already been to > Melbourne and Sydney and is now in the north island of New Zealand. There > are two race meetings in the north island and 3 more following in the south > island. > > The container then heads for New York for at least 3 race meetings in June > 2017 at Indianapolis, Mosport and Mid Ohio. > > Now the big question I have is what is the best way to transport 9 race > cars around the mid US and Canada. > > We are looking at the possibility of trucking the container to each track > in turn and hiring a crane to unload and load the container at the track. > I should mention here that there will be at least 4 extra containers > carrying UK and NZ cars doing the same thing. > > Our personal travel is another big issue. Most couples are looking at the > hired RV route but the major problem is that the hired RVs cannot go into > Canada from the US. > > If any one has any other ideas please share them. > > Kind regards > John Rowe > Perth > 3000Mk 1 > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Mon Jan 9 05:45:16 2017 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2017 07:45:16 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey - travel from US to Canada References: <9e47846f-00f6-8eb8-e005-4d75aaa8edf8@westnet.com.au> John-- >From the CruiseAmerica FAQ site: "US registered RVs may enter Canada and return to the US and Canadian registered RVs may enter the US and return to Canada without problem. One way rentals between the two countries are not allowed." As to transporting the FJ's I would be looking to make a deal with someone who has an enclosed rig capable of handling 4-5 FJ's to follow you guys from race to race. There are commercial companies such as Passport who do this but you will certainly do better with individual owner/drivers. Contact me offlist and i will give you the name of some people of whom you can inquire/enquire. Best--Michael Oritt. On Sun, Jan 8, 2017 at 11:17 PM, John Rowe wrote: > Hi All > > I'm looking for some worldly wisdom about travel from the US to Canada. > > I am part of the Formula Junior world tour to celebrate the 60th > Anniversary in 2018 and have my Lotus 18 in a container with 8 other FJs > from WesternAustralia. > > The trip started in Perth in October 2016 and has already been to > Melbourne and Sydney and is now in the north island of New Zealand. There > are two race meetings in the north island and 3 more following in the south > island. > > The container then heads for New York for at least 3 race meetings in June > 2017 at Indianapolis, Mosport and Mid Ohio. > > Now the big question I have is what is the best way to transport 9 race > cars around the mid US and Canada. > > We are looking at the possibility of trucking the container to each track > in turn and hiring a crane to unload and load the container at the track. > I should mention here that there will be at least 4 extra containers > carrying UK and NZ cars doing the same thing. > > Our personal travel is another big issue. Most couples are looking at the > hired RV route but the major problem is that the hired RVs cannot go into > Canada from the US. > > If any one has any other ideas please share them. > > Kind regards > John Rowe > Perth > 3000Mk 1 > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jstmorris at yahoo.com Mon Jan 9 06:46:43 2017 From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris) Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2017 13:46:43 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey - travel from US to Canada References: <9e47846f-00f6-8eb8-e005-4d75aaa8edf8@westnet.com.au> HelloJohn;? Perhaps Jeremy Sale can help youor direct you to the best person to do so.?Jeremy is the editor of VARAC publications Pit Signals and The Vintage Racer - see???????? www.varac.ca????Iam copying him on this email - Jeremy Sale Good luck John and hopefully I will see you at Mosport.?--Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives On Monday, January 9, 2017 12:08 AM, John Rowe wrote: Hi All I'm looking for some worldly wisdom about travel from the US to Canada. I am part of the Formula Junior world tour to celebrate the 60th Anniversary in 2018 and have my Lotus 18 in a container with 8 other FJs from WesternAustralia. The trip started in Perth in October 2016 and has already been to Melbourne and Sydney and is now in the north island of New Zealand. There are two race meetings in the north island and 3 more following in the south island. The container then heads for New York for at least 3 race meetings in June 2017 at Indianapolis, Mosport and Mid Ohio. Now the big question I? have is what is the best way to transport 9 race cars around the mid US and Canada. We are looking at the possibility of trucking the container to each track in turn and hiring a crane to unload and load the container at the? track. I should mention here that there will be at least 4 extra containers carrying UK and NZ cars doing the same thing. Our personal travel is another big issue. Most couples are looking at the hired RV route but the major problem is that the hired RVs cannot go into Canada from the US. If any one has any other ideas please share them. Kind regards John Rowe Perth 3000Mk 1 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Mon Jan 9 08:05:39 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2017 15:05:39 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Mount a coil on an alternator. References: <001a01d25d47$7f054a40$7d0fdec0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> <001f01d25d6b$c3c49590$4b4dc0b0$@speakeasy.net> <01aa01d25df4$61ea15a0$25be40e0$@speakeasy.net> <1482608833982.439594.8bbb8c5a781d7d0097e33aa560429fca481442ab@spica.telekom.de> <006301d25ed8$0660f4d0$1322de70$@speakeasy.net> Thanks for all the help and advice concerning my query. I was never happy with where I?d put the coil after swapping generator for alternator so, as you?ll recall, I was looking for a better location. It seemed that I might as well try to mount it on top of the alternator. I?d been assured that alternators would be even less likely to ?interfere? with a coil than a generator and vice verca and, if that location had been good enough with a generator (heat and vibration), why not with an alternator? I bought an old Lucas bracket on eBay, adjusted the curve, got a much longer bolt and stuck the assembly onto the alternator. Plainly, it wasn?t quite that simple but that?s the pr?cis version. See attached. Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Generator alternator comparison 2013 1.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 3391344 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Generator alternator comparison 2017 1b.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 3859482 bytes Desc: not available URL: From Ed at wadsworthoneal.com Mon Jan 9 14:30:20 2017 From: Ed at wadsworthoneal.com (Ed O'Neal) Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2017 21:30:20 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BT7 distributor condenser Gents, What is the correct rating for the BT7 distributor (capacitor) - ?F and withstand voltage? From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randy Hicks Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2017 9:38 PM To: R. Lindsay Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Washer Reservoir Bracket Color Price, I?m promoting the Austin Healey 2017 Concours Guidelines today! ? See if this helps: 1. Windshield Washer Bottle 100 ? Had no windshield washer as standard fitting though it was available as an accessory on late BN1s and all BN2s. 100 Six, 3000 * Location: through the BJ7, the windshield washer bottle is mounted into the package tray inside the interior. These bottles and mountings are described in the interior section. On BJ8s, with the revision of the interior to incorporate the walnut fascia and glove box, the bottle holding windshield washer liquid was moved to the engine compartment. On these cars, the bottle is made of white plastic with a plastic screw top. * Bottle: Longbridge BN4's used a Trafalgar glass bottle (17H579) (see Photos ? Figure III-8 a- d); a Tudor plastic bottle (37H9798) was introduced at Abingdon sometime prior to BN4 C. 68960 (this would have been before BN4 production was temporarily halted in spring1958). The Glass bottle (17H579) was also used on early BN6s up through C. 1182 (built in May ?58, according to Clausager). The BN4 Service Parts List shows another 1 1?2? neck diameter container (37H9763) followed by a 2 3/16? diameter neck one (37H9729) introduced when BN4 production resumed at C. 68960 (in Sept. 1958). This same wide-mouth bottle (37H9729) is also listed in the BN6 Service Parts List as being introduced at BN6/1183, which would have been built well before BN4 C. 68960, so it is not clear exactly what the differences between the first two plastic BN4 bottles was, and when they were used. 25 On original BJ7s a metal squirrel cage has been found. On BJ8s, in 1964 and also later, white plastic squirrel cages have been found. A plastic bottle was used on non-BN4 six cylinder cars. 3000?s On Phase I BJ8s the bottle is plain, with no logo/markings, and sits in a metal support frame painted black. Cast into the bottom of the plastic bottle is the location of the ?Tudor? company and other information. On Phase II BJ8s there is a large trademark screened onto the side of the bottle, consisting of the word "Tudor" reversed out in white on a distinctive bright blue background. (The Tudor trademark on these bottles definitely was not a separate decal.) The screened logo color may vary a bit between cars as a result of aging. On Phase II cars, the metal frame is a slightly different shape and is painted a shade of blue which was a bit lighter than the Tudor trademark. There also was an evolution of bottle cap and outlet shapes (see Figure III-7a-e for examples and detailed descriptions). The 2017 Concours Guidelines are an incredible series of documents detailing how Big Healeys (and Sprites - separate document) were originally put together. if you contact Mike Osipik (below) he will give you a couple options on receiving a copy of the Guidelines package. He can download it through DropBox (immediately available to you) or he can send you a CD. DropBox is very easy. (816) 729-9119 Home Randy Randy Hicks Austin Healey Concours Registry Committee AHCA 100 Registrar www.austinhealey100m.com What is the proper color for the washer reservoir bracket on a 67 BJ8? How many ?Tudor? labels are attached to the reservoir? Is there a specific height on the reservoir? Many thanks! Price Lindsay 67 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Jan 9 15:48:08 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2017 14:48:08 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box The Moss catalog calls for 6 'belleville' washers under the rocker shaft in the late BN, early BN4/6 steering box (Moss part# 725-115). Mine doesn't appear to have ever had them; anyone know if they're required? I'm guessing yes, because otherwise the rocker shaft looks like it rests on a rough surface but, they list for $12.79/ea, and if they're not necessary--or if anyone knows of a cheaper alternative--I'd prefer not to spend that much. TIA, Bob From michael.salter at gmail.com Mon Jan 9 16:40:18 2017 From: michael.salter at gmail.com (michael.salter at gmail.com) Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2017 23:40:18 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] BT7 distributor condenser References: <5DF89A96AFE9744A854AC9AD65E693CC706F193B@mbx027-w1-ca-4.exch027.domain.local> Hi Ed, The capacitance figure quoted by Lucas is 0.18 - 0.25 microfarads. I don't recall ever having seen a voltage figure. Michael S BN1 #174 Too Soon Old...To Late Smart... On Mon, Jan 9, 2017 at 6:32 PM -0500, "Ed O'Neal" wrote: Gents, ? What is the correct rating for the BT7 distributor (capacitor) - ?F and? withstand voltage? ? ? ? From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randy Hicks Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2017 9:38 PM To: R. Lindsay Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Washer Reservoir Bracket Color ? Price, I?m promoting the Austin Healey 2017 Concours Guidelines today! ?? ? See if this helps: ? Windshield Washer Bottle? 100 ? Had no windshield washer as standard fitting though it was available as an accessory on late BN1s and all BN2s. 100 Six, 3000 Location: through the BJ7, the windshield washer bottle is mounted into the package tray inside the interior. These bottles and mountings are described in the interior section. On BJ8s, with the revision of the interior to incorporate the walnut fascia and glove box, the bottle holding windshield washer liquid was moved to the engine compartment. On these cars, the bottle is made of white plastic with a plastic screw top. Bottle: Longbridge BN4's used a Trafalgar glass bottle (17H579) (see Photos ? Figure III-8 a- d); a Tudor plastic bottle (37H9798) was introduced at Abingdon sometime prior to BN4 C. 68960 (this would have been before BN4 production was temporarily halted in spring1958). The Glass bottle (17H579) was also used on early BN6s up through C. 1182 (built in May ?58, according to Clausager). The BN4 Service Parts List shows another 1 1?2? neck diameter container (37H9763) followed by a 2 3/16? diameter neck one (37H9729) introduced when BN4 production resumed at C. 68960 (in Sept. 1958). This same wide-mouth bottle (37H9729) is also listed in the BN6 Service Parts List as being introduced at BN6/1183, which would have been built well before BN4 C. 68960, so it is not clear exactly what the differences between the first two plastic BN4 bottles was, and when they were used. 25 On original BJ7s a metal squirrel cage has been found. On BJ8s, in 1964 and also later, white plastic squirrel cages have been found. ??????????????????????????????? A plastic bottle was used on non-BN4 six cylinder cars. ? ??????????????? 3000?s ??????????????? On Phase I BJ8s the bottle is plain, with no logo/markings, and sits in a metal support frame painted black. Cast into the bottom of the ??????????????????? plastic bottle is the location of the ?Tudor? company and other information. ??????????????? On Phase II BJ8s there is a large trademark screened onto the side of the bottle, consisting of the word "Tudor" reversed out in white on a ??????????????????????????? distinctive bright blue background. (The Tudor trademark on these bottles definitely was not a separate decal.) The screened logo color ???? may vary a bit between cars as a result of aging. On Phase II cars, the metal frame is a slightly different shape and is painted a shade of ????????????????? blue which was a bit lighter than the Tudor trademark. There also was an evolution of bottle cap and outlet shapes (see Figure III-7a-e ??? for examples and detailed descriptions).? The 2017 Concours Guidelines are an incredible series of documents detailing how Big Healeys (and Sprites - separate document) were originally put together. ?if you contact Mike Osipik (below) he will give you a couple options on receiving a copy of the Guidelines package. He can download it through DropBox (immediately available to you) or he can send you a CD. DropBox is very easy.? ? mikeosipik at gmail.com ? (816) 729-9119 ?Home ? Randy ? Randy Hicks Austin Healey Concours Registry Committee AHCA 100 Registrar ahca100registrar at gmail.com www.austinhealey100m.com ? On Jan 7, 2017, at 2:25 PM, R. Lindsay <050.rpl at gmail.com> wrote: ? What is the proper color for the washer reservoir bracket on a 67 BJ8? ?How many ?Tudor? labels are attached to the reservoir? ?Is there a specific height on the reservoir? ? Many thanks! Price Lindsay 67 BJ8 ? ? _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m at me.com ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From robertlarson at att.net Mon Jan 9 19:22:54 2017 From: robertlarson at att.net (Bob) Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2017 21:22:54 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box References: <5c4d20a5-d2ec-b119-8b67-e3a3923683eb@comcast.net> Seems quite high. I'd check here to see what you can find: https://www.mcmaster.com/#belleville-spring-washers/=15udtax Need more info to check further. Bob 55BN1 On 1/9/2017 5:48 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > The Moss catalog calls for 6 'belleville' washers under the rocker shaft in > the late BN, early BN4/6 steering box (Moss part# 725-115). Mine doesn't > appear to have ever had them; anyone know if they're required? I'm guessing > yes, because otherwise the rocker shaft looks like it rests on a rough surface > but, they list for $12.79/ea, and if they're not necessary--or if anyone knows > of a cheaper alternative--I'd prefer not to spend that much. > > TIA, > > Bob From gablegerry at netscape.net Mon Jan 9 19:23:45 2017 From: gablegerry at netscape.net (gablegerry at netscape.net) Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2017 21:23:45 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] condencer My BN6 came with a condenser on top of the coil but not attached to anything. Any idea where this condenser is to be reinstalled and what condenser should I replace it with. Thanks -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Jan 9 19:38:41 2017 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2017 10:38:41 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box References: <5c4d20a5-d2ec-b119-8b67-e3a3923683eb@comcast.net> I am pretty sure those washers are there to shim the peg shaft up so you can lock the peg at the correct height to engage the worm gear properly. You definitely want them there, I think a few thin copper washers should do. On Tue, Jan 10, 2017 at 6:48 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > The Moss catalog calls for 6 'belleville' washers under the rocker shaft > in the late BN, early BN4/6 steering box (Moss part# 725-115). Mine > doesn't appear to have ever had them; anyone know if they're required? I'm > guessing yes, because otherwise the rocker shaft looks like it rests on a > rough surface but, they list for $12.79/ea, and if they're not > necessary--or if anyone knows of a cheaper alternative--I'd prefer not to > spend that much. > > TIA, > > Bob > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Jan 9 19:40:24 2017 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2017 10:40:24 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey - travel from US to Canada References: <9e47846f-00f6-8eb8-e005-4d75aaa8edf8@westnet.com.au> Just to clarify - you do need to be with the car when crossing the border, and then it becomes easy. If you ship and a third party is crossing with the car, then it becomes complicated. On Mon, Jan 9, 2017 at 8:45 PM, Michael Oritt wrote: > John-- > > From the CruiseAmerica FAQ site: "US registered RVs may enter Canada and > return to the US and Canadian registered RVs may enter the US and return to > Canada without problem. One way rentals between the two countries are not > allowed." > > As to transporting the FJ's I would be looking to make a deal with someone > who has an enclosed rig capable of handling 4-5 FJ's to follow you guys > from race to race. There are commercial companies such as Passport who do > this but you will certainly do better with individual owner/drivers. > Contact me offlist and i will give you the name of some people of whom you > can inquire/enquire. > > Best--Michael Oritt. > > > > On Sun, Jan 8, 2017 at 11:17 PM, John Rowe wrote: > >> Hi All >> >> I'm looking for some worldly wisdom about travel from the US to Canada. >> >> I am part of the Formula Junior world tour to celebrate the 60th >> Anniversary in 2018 and have my Lotus 18 in a container with 8 other FJs >> from WesternAustralia. >> >> The trip started in Perth in October 2016 and has already been to >> Melbourne and Sydney and is now in the north island of New Zealand. There >> are two race meetings in the north island and 3 more following in the south >> island. >> >> The container then heads for New York for at least 3 race meetings in >> June 2017 at Indianapolis, Mosport and Mid Ohio. >> >> Now the big question I have is what is the best way to transport 9 race >> cars around the mid US and Canada. >> >> We are looking at the possibility of trucking the container to each track >> in turn and hiring a crane to unload and load the container at the track. >> I should mention here that there will be at least 4 extra containers >> carrying UK and NZ cars doing the same thing. >> >> Our personal travel is another big issue. Most couples are looking at the >> hired RV route but the major problem is that the hired RVs cannot go into >> Canada from the US. >> >> If any one has any other ideas please share them. >> >> Kind regards >> John Rowe >> Perth >> 3000Mk 1 >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com >> >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Jan 9 19:46:12 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2017 18:46:12 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box References: <5c4d20a5-d2ec-b119-8b67-e3a3923683eb@comcast.net> Unfortunately, I have no idea what the material, OD, ID, thickness, dish or flat load are; else I would order from McMaster or other, more reasonable, supplier. On 1/9/2017 6:22 PM, Bob wrote: > Seems quite high. > > I'd check here to see what you can find: > > https://www.mcmaster.com/#belleville-spring-washers/=15udtax > > Need more info to check further. > > Bob > > 55BN1 > > > On 1/9/2017 5:48 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > >> The Moss catalog calls for 6 'belleville' washers under the rocker >> shaft in the late BN, early BN4/6 steering box (Moss part# 725-115). >> Mine doesn't appear to have ever had them; anyone know if they're >> required? I'm guessing yes, because otherwise the rocker shaft looks >> like it rests on a rough surface but, they list for $12.79/ea, and if >> they're not necessary--or if anyone knows of a cheaper >> alternative--I'd prefer not to spend that much. >> >> TIA, >> >> Bob > > From rrengineer.mike at att.net Mon Jan 9 23:54:02 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2017 06:54:02 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of washers... References: <1006366135.106161.1484031242439.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Where do you get the "shakeproof" washer that goes under the steering wheel nut?? Not available from the usual suspects.Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From josef-eckert at t-online.de Tue Jan 10 00:21:31 2017 From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2017 08:21:31 +0100 (MET) Subject: [Healeys] condencer References: <426797236.2102518.1483736963644@mail.yahoo.com> <15986303ced-50b5-9ba5d@webprd-a05.mail.aol.com> Perhaps this condenser was a temporary fit after fail of the normal condenser fitted in the distributor. When the condenser in the distributor is changed to a good one you can take the external off. It also could be it was fitted as a failsafe in case the original in the distributor fails and you want a fast repair. Wire of the external condenser is to be fixed to the terminal of the coil where the white/black cable goes, only in case the dizi-condenser fails. Josef eckert Konigswinter/Germany -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: Re: [Healeys] condencer Datum: 2017-01-10T07:57:49+0100 Von: "gablegerry at netscape.net" An: "healey at autox.team.net" My BN6 came with a condenser on top of the coil but not attached to anything. Any idea where this condenser is to be reinstalled and what condenser should I replace it with. Thanks ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Jan 10 01:42:11 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2017 09:42:11 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] condencer References: <15986303ced-50b5-9ba5d@webprd-a05.mail.aol.com> Could this be an interference surpressor for the radio? Kees Oudesluijs Op 10-1-2017 om 3:23 schreef gablegerry at netscape.net: > My BN6 came with a condenser on top of the coil but not attached to > anything. Any idea where this condenser is to be reinstalled and what > condenser should I replace it with. > Thanks > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Jan 10 01:49:16 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2017 09:49:16 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] BT7 distributor condenser References: <5DF89A96AFE9744A854AC9AD65E693CC706F193B@mbx027-w1-ca-4.exch027.domain.local> <749F94B05E660FF2.08a2b76a-82f6-479d-b2c2-0e8ed679e0bc@mail.outlook.com> As the quality of new capacitors seems to be atrocious I would think that a capacitor from a radio shack may be a suitable and very cheap alternative. 0,2 microF and 200V or more would do I imagine. Any experience someone? Kees Oudesluijs Op 10-1-2017 om 0:40 schreef michael.salter at gmail.com: > > Hi Ed, > The capacitance figure quoted by Lucas is 0.18 - 0.25 microfarads. > I don't recall ever having seen a voltage figure. > Michael S > BN1 #174 > > Too Soon Old...To Late Smart... > > > > > On Mon, Jan 9, 2017 at 6:32 PM -0500, "Ed O'Neal" > > Gents, > > What is the correct rating for the BT7 distributor (capacitor) - > ?F and withstand voltage? > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf > Of *Randy Hicks > *Sent:* Saturday, January 07, 2017 9:38 PM > *To:* R. Lindsay > *Cc:* Healey List > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Washer Reservoir Bracket Color > > Price, I?m promoting the Austin Healey 2017 Concours Guidelines > today! ? > > See if this helps: > > 1. *Windshield Washer Bottle * > > *100 * > > ? Had no windshield washer as standard fitting though it was > available as an accessory on late BN1s and all BN2s. > > *100 Six, 3000 * > > * Location: through the BJ7, the windshield washer bottle is > mounted into the package tray inside the interior. These > bottles and mountings are described in the interior section. > > On BJ8s, with the revision of the interior to incorporate the > walnut fascia and glove box, the bottle holding windshield washer > liquid was moved to the engine compartment. On these cars, the > bottle is made of white plastic with a plastic screw top. > > * Bottle: > Longbridge BN4's used a *Trafalgar *glass bottle (17H579) > (see Photos ? Figure III-8 a- d); a *Tudor *plastic bottle > (37H9798) was introduced at Abingdon sometime prior to BN4 > C. 68960 (this would have been before BN4 production was > temporarily halted in spring1958). The Glass bottle > (17H579) was also used on early BN6s up through C. 1182 > (built in May ?58, according to Clausager). The BN4 > Service Parts List shows another 1 1?2? neck diameter > container (37H9763) followed by a 2 3/16? diameter neck > one (37H9729) introduced when BN4 production resumed at C. > 68960 (in Sept. 1958). This same wide-mouth bottle > (37H9729) is also listed in the BN6 Service Parts List as > being introduced at BN6/1183, which would have been built > well before BN4 C. 68960, so it is not clear exactly what > the differences between the first two plastic BN4 bottles > was, and when they were used. > > /25 //On original BJ7s a metal squirrel cage has been found. On > BJ8s, in 1964 and also later, white plastic squirrel cages have > been found. / > > A plastic bottle was used on non-BN4 six cylinder cars. > > *3000**?s* > > On Phase I BJ8s the bottle is plain, with no logo/markings, and > sits in a metal support frame painted black. Cast into the bottom > of the plastic bottle is the location of the ?Tudor? company and > other information. > > On Phase II BJ8s there is a large trademark screened onto the side > of the bottle, consisting of the word "Tudor" reversed out in > white on a distinctive bright blue background. (The Tudor > trademark on these bottles definitely was not a separate decal.) > The screened logo color may vary a bit between cars as a result of > aging. On Phase II cars, the metal frame is a slightly different > shape and is painted a shade of blue which was a bit lighter than > the Tudor trademark. There also was an evolution of bottle cap and > outlet shapes (see Figure III-7a-e for examples and detailed > descriptions). > > The 2017 Concours Guidelines are an incredible series of documents > detailing how Big Healeys (and Sprites - separate document) were > originally put together. if you contact Mike Osipik (below) he > will give you a couple options on receiving a copy of the > Guidelines package. He can download it through DropBox > (immediately available to you) or he can send you a CD. DropBox is > very easy. > > > (816) 729-9119 Home > > Randy > > Randy Hicks > > Austin Healey Concours Registry Committee > > AHCA 100 Registrar > > > www.austinhealey100m.com > > On Jan 7, 2017, at 2:25 PM, R. Lindsay <050.rpl at gmail.com > > What is the proper color for the washer reservoir bracket on a > 67 BJ8? How many ?Tudor? labels are attached to the > reservoir? Is there a specific height on the reservoir? > > Many thanks! > > > Price Lindsay > > 67 BJ8 > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net > http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m at me.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Jan 10 02:02:07 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2017 10:02:07 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box References: <5c4d20a5-d2ec-b119-8b67-e3a3923683eb@comcast.net> The Belleville washers used in the A-H will no doubt be standard items, so if you know the I.D. and O.D. you can get them wherever you want for pennies rather than over 10 pounds or dollars. Check though how they are fitted, all in the same direction makes for a very stiff "spring" with little travel, opposing each other gives much more travel and less force to compress. Kees Oudesluijs Op 9-1-2017 om 23:48 schreef Bob Spidell: > The Moss catalog calls for 6 'belleville' washers under the rocker > shaft in the late BN, early BN4/6 steering box (Moss part# 725-115). > Mine doesn't appear to have ever had them; anyone know if they're > required? I'm guessing yes, because otherwise the rocker shaft looks > like it rests on a rough surface but, they list for $12.79/ea, and if > they're not necessary--or if anyone knows of a cheaper > alternative--I'd prefer not to spend that much. > > TIA, > > Bob > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > From per at schoerner.se Tue Jan 10 10:54:45 2017 From: per at schoerner.se (Per Schoerner) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2017 10:54:45 GMT+0100 Subject: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box References: <5c4d20a5-d2ec-b119-8b67-e3a3923683eb@comcast.net> <9171f92c-a680-6420-7f86-67a77910dd0b@comcast.net> Bob For sure you need the belleville washers, and correctly installed as well. You need 6 of them. They act as a spring in the steering box. I've seen a steering box that missed 3 of them, that didn't work well. AH Spares have them for ?3,25 plus VAT. Best, Per On 10 January 2017 at 03:46:12 +01:00, Bob Spidell wrote: > Unfortunately, I have no idea what the material, OD, ID, thickness, dish or flat load are; else I would order from McMaster or other, more reasonable, supplier. > > > On 1/9/2017 6:22 PM, Bob wrote: > > > Seems quite high. > > > > I'd check here to see what you can find: > > > > > > > > Need more info to check further. > > > > Bob > > > > 55BN1 > > > > > > On 1/9/2017 5:48 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > > > > > > The Moss catalog calls for 6 'belleville' washers under the rocker shaft in the late BN, early BN4/6 steering box (Moss part# 725-115). Mine doesn't appear to have ever had them; anyone know if they're required? I'm guessing yes, because otherwise the rocker shaft looks like it rests on a rough surface but, they list for $12.79/ea, and if they're not necessary--or if anyone knows of a cheaper alternative--I'd prefer not to spend that much. > > > > > > TIA, > > > > > > Bob > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: > Forums: > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Jan 10 04:42:57 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2017 12:42:57 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of washers... References: <1006366135.106161.1484031242439.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1006366135.106161.1484031242439@mail.yahoo.com> Any hardware store? Kees Oudesluijs Op 10-1-2017 om 7:54 schreef Michael MacLean: > Where do you get the "shakeproof" washer that goes under the steering > wheel nut? Not available from the usual suspects. > Mike MacLean > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From neilandcustom at gmail.com Tue Jan 10 06:03:05 2017 From: neilandcustom at gmail.com (Neil Anderson) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2017 07:03:05 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of washers... References: <1006366135.106161.1484031242439.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1006366135.106161.1484031242439@mail.yahoo.com> Try the parts dept, at British Car Specialists. Neil Anderson BT7 On Tue, Jan 10, 2017 at 12:54 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: > Where do you get the "shakeproof" washer that goes under the steering > wheel nut? Not available from the usual suspects. > Mike MacLean > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/neilandcustom at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Jan 10 08:11:23 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2017 07:11:23 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of washers... References: <1006366135.106161.1484031242439.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1006366135.106161.1484031242439@mail.yahoo.com> <46f9949f-097c-5cd9-1237-df82e36031cf@chello.nl> Not likely ... it's an odd duck. On 1/10/2017 3:42 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > Any hardware store? > Kees Oudesluijs > > > Op 10-1-2017 om 7:54 schreef Michael MacLean: >> Where do you get the "shakeproof" washer that goes under the steering >> wheel nut? Not available from the usual suspects. >> Mike MacLean >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Steering box washer.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 121157 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Tue Jan 10 08:43:06 2017 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2017 10:43:06 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of washers... References: <1006366135.106161.1484031242439.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1006366135.106161.1484031242439@mail.yahoo.com> Hi Mike, Are you referring to the washer (locating bracket) Part # 2K8929 that has the split arm on it that turns the striker ring? Sorry this is the only picture I could find. [image: Inline image 1] Michael S BN1 #174 On Tue, Jan 10, 2017 at 1:54 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: > Where do you get the "shakeproof" washer that goes under the steering > wheel nut? Not available from the usual suspects. > Mike MacLean > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > > -- *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 715190 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeydoc at gmail.com Tue Jan 10 09:10:49 2017 From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2017 08:10:49 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box References: <5c4d20a5-d2ec-b119-8b67-e3a3923683eb@comcast.net> <9171f92c-a680-6420-7f86-67a77910dd0b@comcast.net> <1484042085407.52955.13452@webmail1> Yes the are necessary, they act as a spring for the steering rocker shaft. David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 209 948 8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: Per Schoerner Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2017 2:54 AM To: Bob Spidell Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box Bob For sure you need the belleville washers, and correctly installed as well. You need 6 of them. They act as a spring in the steering box. I've seen a steering box that missed 3 of them, that didn't work well. AH Spares have them for ?3,25 plus VAT. Best, Per On 10 January 2017 at 03:46:12 +01:00, Bob Spidell wrote: Unfortunately, I have no idea what the material, OD, ID, thickness, dish or flat load are; else I would order from McMaster or other, more reasonable, supplier. On 1/9/2017 6:22 PM, Bob wrote: Seems quite high. I'd check here to see what you can find: https://www.mcmaster.com/#belleville-spring-washers/=15udtax Need more info to check further. Bob 55BN1 On 1/9/2017 5:48 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: The Moss catalog calls for 6 'belleville' washers under the rocker shaft in the late BN, early BN4/6 steering box (Moss part# 725-115). Mine doesn't appear to have ever had them; anyone know if they're required? I'm guessing yes, because otherwise the rocker shaft looks like it rests on a rough surface but, they list for $12.79/ea, and if they're not necessary--or if anyone knows of a cheaper alternative--I'd prefer not to spend that much. TIA, Bob _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/per at schoerner.se -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cnaarndt at gmail.com Tue Jan 10 10:50:55 2017 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2017 09:50:55 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of washers... References: <1006366135.106161.1484031242439.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1006366135.106161.1484031242439@mail.yahoo.com> Michael, No, here are the suspect parts. He needs the shake proof washer. [image: Inline image 1] On Tue, Jan 10, 2017 at 7:43 AM, Michael Salter wrote: > Hi Mike, > Are you referring to the washer (locating bracket) Part # 2K8929 that has > the split arm on it that turns the striker ring? > Sorry this is the only picture I could find. > [image: Inline image 1] > Michael S > BN1 #174 > > On Tue, Jan 10, 2017 at 1:54 AM, Michael MacLean > wrote: > >> Where do you get the "shakeproof" washer that goes under the steering >> wheel nut? Not available from the usual suspects. >> Mike MacLean >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >> >> >> > > > -- > *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.* > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 364759 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 715190 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Non-adj. Steering Wheel.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 42514 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Tue Jan 10 11:23:36 2017 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2017 13:23:36 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of washers... References: <1006366135.106161.1484031242439.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1006366135.106161.1484031242439@mail.yahoo.com> Hi Mike, I have some.. Michael S BN1 #174 On Tue, Jan 10, 2017 at 12:50 PM, Curtis Arndt wrote: > Michael, > > No, here are the suspect parts. He needs the shake proof washer. > > [image: Inline image 1] > > On Tue, Jan 10, 2017 at 7:43 AM, Michael Salter > wrote: > >> Hi Mike, >> Are you referring to the washer (locating bracket) Part # 2K8929 that has >> the split arm on it that turns the striker ring? >> Sorry this is the only picture I could find. >> [image: Inline image 1] >> Michael S >> BN1 #174 >> >> On Tue, Jan 10, 2017 at 1:54 AM, Michael MacLean > > wrote: >> >>> Where do you get the "shakeproof" washer that goes under the steering >>> wheel nut? Not available from the usual suspects. >>> Mike MacLean >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >>> options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> -- >> *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.* >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com >> >> >> > -- *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 715190 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 364759 bytes Desc: not available URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Tue Jan 10 13:19:22 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2017 12:19:22 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of washers... References: <1006366135.106161.1484031242439.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1006366135.106161.1484031242439@mail.yahoo.com> You should be able to source a "wavy" washer at a hardware store. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Tue, Jan 10, 2017 at 9:50 AM, Curtis Arndt wrote: > Michael, > > No, here are the suspect parts. He needs the shake proof washer. > > [image: Inline image 1] > > On Tue, Jan 10, 2017 at 7:43 AM, Michael Salter > wrote: > >> Hi Mike, >> Are you referring to the washer (locating bracket) Part # 2K8929 that has >> the split arm on it that turns the striker ring? >> Sorry this is the only picture I could find. >> [image: Inline image 1] >> Michael S >> BN1 #174 >> >> On Tue, Jan 10, 2017 at 1:54 AM, Michael MacLean > > wrote: >> >>> Where do you get the "shakeproof" washer that goes under the steering >>> wheel nut? Not available from the usual suspects. >>> Mike MacLean >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >>> options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> -- >> *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.* >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com >> >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 364759 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 715190 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue Jan 10 13:34:01 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2017 20:34:01 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of washers... References: <1006366135.106161.1484031242439.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1006366135.106161.1484031242439@mail.yahoo.com> Curt,???? I have all in the picture except the shake proof washer.Mike On Tuesday, January 10, 2017 9:50 AM, Curtis Arndt wrote: Michael, No, here are the suspect parts.? He needs the shake proof washer. On Tue, Jan 10, 2017 at 7:43 AM, Michael Salter wrote: Hi Mike, Are you referring to the washer (locating bracket) Part # 2K8929 that has the split arm on it that turns the striker ring? Sorry this is the only picture I could find. Michael S BN1 #174 On Tue, Jan 10, 2017 at 1:54 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: Where do you get the "shakeproof" washer that goes under the steering wheel nut?? Not available from the usual suspects.Mike MacLean ______________________________ _________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/ listinfo/healeys -- If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem. ______________________________ _________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/ listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 364759 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 715190 bytes Desc: not available URL: From obrimberry at hunterbane.com Tue Jan 10 14:34:27 2017 From: obrimberry at hunterbane.com (Olin Brimberry) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2017 16:34:27 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box References: <5c4d20a5-d2ec-b119-8b67-e3a3923683eb@comcast.net> I just pulled mine out of a steering box I am rebuilding, and yes there are 6 positioned as such: ()()() Where only the outer edges touch. The dimensions are as follows: ID: 1-1/16 OD: 1-1/2 Pictures of the measurements are attached for verification purposes. The washers were loose on the shaft, but I think the closer tolerance is going to be on the OD side. Olin K. Brimberry, PE Principal Engineer obrimberry at hunterbane.com Office - 919.803.4274 Mobile - 919.522.1608 HunterBane Engineering, PLLC PO Box 10314 Raleigh, NC 27605 3306 Alamance Drive Raleigh, NC 27609 -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell at comcast.net] Sent: Monday, January 9, 2017 5:48 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box The Moss catalog calls for 6 'belleville' washers under the rocker shaft in the late BN, early BN4/6 steering box (Moss part# 725-115). Mine doesn't appear to have ever had them; anyone know if they're required? I'm guessing yes, because otherwise the rocker shaft looks like it rests on a rough surface but, they list for $12.79/ea, and if they're not necessary--or if anyone knows of a cheaper alternative--I'd prefer not to spend that much. TIA, Bob --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_8714.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1194232 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_8713.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1093806 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz Tue Jan 10 15:04:35 2017 From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson) Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2017 11:04:35 +1300 Subject: [Healeys] condenser References: <15986303ced-50b5-9ba5d@webprd-a05.mail.aol.com> <8cb79f95-8747-4a68-0288-58edd812a46f@chello.nl> I agree with Kees. I've had condensors (capacitors) fitted to spark coils on several of my cars in years gone by when the solid-core HT leads caused 'clicking' interference on our car radios. They had a metal case with a small bracket attached so that it could be clamped under the coil strap. I used to also fit them to the generator to stop 'hash' noise on the radio. Mark Ardmore, NZ https://www.howacarworks.com/accessories/identifying-and-suppressing-radio-i nterference _____ From: Oudesluys [mailto:coudesluijs at chello.nl] Sent: Tuesday, 10 January 2017 9:42 p.m. To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] condencer Could this be an interference surpressor for the radio? Kees Oudesluijs Op 10-1-2017 om 3:23 schreef gablegerry at netscape.net: My BN6 came with a condenser on top of the coil but not attached to anything. Any idea where this condenser is to be reinstalled and what condenser should I replace it with. Thanks _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From obrimberry at hunterbane.com Tue Jan 10 15:14:59 2017 From: obrimberry at hunterbane.com (Olin Brimberry) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2017 17:14:59 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box References: <5c4d20a5-d2ec-b119-8b67-e3a3923683eb@comcast.net> Bob, I figured height of the spring was also important, so I put 2 together and measured the height with calipers Height of 2 washers: 0.100 inches Height of 1 washer: 0.050 inches Thickness of washer: 0.025 inches Checking the previous diameter dimensions with a caliper, I get: ID: 1.057 inches OD: 1.5 inches I suspect that the ID is originally spec'd to be 1-1/16" but because of the slight "spring", the diameter is slightly less. Good luck Olin K. Brimberry, PE Principal Engineer obrimberry at hunterbane.com Office - 919.803.4274 Mobile - 919.522.1608 HunterBane Engineering, PLLC PO Box 10314 Raleigh, NC 27605 3306 Alamance Drive Raleigh, NC 27609 -----Original Message----- From: Olin Brimberry [mailto:obrimberry at hunterbane.com] Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2017 4:34 PM To: 'Bob Spidell' ; 'Healeys' Subject: RE: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box I just pulled mine out of a steering box I am rebuilding, and yes there are 6 positioned as such: ()()() Where only the outer edges touch. The dimensions are as follows: ID: 1-1/16 OD: 1-1/2 Pictures of the measurements are attached for verification purposes. The washers were loose on the shaft, but I think the closer tolerance is going to be on the OD side. Olin K. Brimberry, PE Principal Engineer obrimberry at hunterbane.com Office - 919.803.4274 Mobile - 919.522.1608 HunterBane Engineering, PLLC PO Box 10314 Raleigh, NC 27605 3306 Alamance Drive Raleigh, NC 27609 -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell at comcast.net] Sent: Monday, January 9, 2017 5:48 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box The Moss catalog calls for 6 'belleville' washers under the rocker shaft in the late BN, early BN4/6 steering box (Moss part# 725-115). Mine doesn't appear to have ever had them; anyone know if they're required? I'm guessing yes, because otherwise the rocker shaft looks like it rests on a rough surface but, they list for $12.79/ea, and if they're not necessary--or if anyone knows of a cheaper alternative--I'd prefer not to spend that much. TIA, Bob --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Jan 10 18:12:36 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2017 17:12:36 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box References: <5c4d20a5-d2ec-b119-8b67-e3a3923683eb@comcast.net> <001501d26b8e$fc7f3990$f57dacb0$@hunterbane.com> Thanks Olin. The search is on. Bob On 1/10/2017 2:14 PM, Olin Brimberry wrote: > Bob, > > I figured height of the spring was also important, so I put 2 together and measured the height with calipers > Height of 2 washers: 0.100 inches > Height of 1 washer: 0.050 inches > Thickness of washer: 0.025 inches > Checking the previous diameter dimensions with a caliper, I get: > > ID: 1.057 inches > OD: 1.5 inches > > I suspect that the ID is originally spec'd to be 1-1/16" but because of the slight "spring", the diameter is slightly less. Good luck > > Olin K. Brimberry, PE > Principal Engineer > obrimberry at hunterbane.com > Office - 919.803.4274 > Mobile - 919.522.1608 > > HunterBane Engineering, PLLC > PO Box 10314 > Raleigh, NC 27605 > 3306 Alamance Drive > Raleigh, NC 27609 > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Olin Brimberry [mailto:obrimberry at hunterbane.com] > Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2017 4:34 PM > To: 'Bob Spidell' ; 'Healeys' > Subject: RE: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box > > I just pulled mine out of a steering box I am rebuilding, and yes there are 6 positioned as such: ()()() Where only the outer edges touch. The dimensions are as follows: > > ID: 1-1/16 > OD: 1-1/2 > Pictures of the measurements are attached for verification purposes. > > The washers were loose on the shaft, but I think the closer tolerance is going to be on the OD side. > > Olin K. Brimberry, PE > Principal Engineer > obrimberry at hunterbane.com > Office - 919.803.4274 > Mobile - 919.522.1608 > > HunterBane Engineering, PLLC > PO Box 10314 > Raleigh, NC 27605 > 3306 Alamance Drive > Raleigh, NC 27609 > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell at comcast.net] > Sent: Monday, January 9, 2017 5:48 PM > To: Healeys > Subject: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box > > The Moss catalog calls for 6 'belleville' washers under the rocker shaft in the late BN, early BN4/6 steering box (Moss part# 725-115). Mine doesn't appear to have ever had them; anyone know if they're required? > I'm guessing yes, because otherwise the rocker shaft looks like it rests on a rough surface but, they list for $12.79/ea, and if they're not necessary--or if anyone knows of a cheaper alternative--I'd prefer not to spend that much. > > TIA, > > Bob > > > > > --- > This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. > https://www.avast.com/antivirus > > From austin.healey at gmail.com Tue Jan 10 18:19:49 2017 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2017 12:19:49 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Robin Williams was a Healey owner? Just read this from an old (1979) interview article with Robin Williams. "The externals of the Williams' lifestyle have changed surprisingly little since Mork. True, they moved from their rented beach apartment to a modest (by Hollywood standards) under $200,000 canyon home. Robin describes it as "rustic bordering on funk." Since his old Austin-Healey was stolen, he's bought a silver BMW. He also acquired a malamute, Sam, who visits the neighbors to watch TV (about all Williams watches is Taxi). On their acre of land, Robin and Valerie plan to add two dwarf goats to a burgeoning menagerie that now includes Polish chickens, Cora the parrot and Mr. I, the iguana who lives under the refrigerator (his companion, Truman Capote, has passed away). "My desire for material things is almost nonexistent," says Williams, who points out that his suburban Detroit upbringing as the son of a Ford Motor Co. exec accustomed him to comfort." http://www.robin-williams.net/interviews/mork/79-10.php Didn't know that! Anyone know more? Best Chris -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Jan 10 21:02:06 2017 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2017 12:02:06 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Robin Williams was a Healey owner? References: He was from SF Bay Area (Marin County) and Marin and Berkeley was ground zero for the British export market to the US, and for Volvo and Fiat as well. These cars are still everywhere in Marin and Berkeley. On Wed, Jan 11, 2017 at 9:19 AM, Chris Dimmock wrote: > Just read this from an old (1979) interview article with Robin Williams. > > "The externals of the Williams' lifestyle have changed surprisingly little > since Mork. True, they moved from their rented beach apartment to a modest > (by Hollywood standards) under $200,000 canyon home. Robin describes it as > "rustic bordering on funk." Since his old Austin-Healey was stolen, he's > bought a silver BMW. He also acquired a malamute, Sam, who visits the > neighbors to watch TV (about all Williams watches is Taxi). On their acre > of land, Robin and Valerie plan to add two dwarf goats to a burgeoning > menagerie that now includes Polish chickens, Cora the parrot and Mr. I, the > iguana who lives under the refrigerator (his companion, Truman Capote, has > passed away). "My desire for material things is almost nonexistent," says > Williams, who points out that his suburban Detroit upbringing as the son of > a Ford Motor Co. exec accustomed him to comfort." > http://www.robin-williams.net/interviews/mork/79-10.php > > > Didn't know that! > Anyone know more? > Best > Chris > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue Jan 10 21:47:53 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2017 04:47:53 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Correct Shift Lever References: <703102421.852990.1484110073416.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Does anyone know what the correct shift lever for a BN2 with a serial number starting with 232XXX? (my car)? I have one, but I want to be sure it is correct for a car made in May 1956.? I see a cutoff serial number in the Moss catalog of 228487.? Levers after that are the same for all later side shift cars?? Anyway here is a picture of the one I have now that a list member was kind enough to make available to me.? Problem is, the more I find out about this car the more I know that I know less than I thought I did.? I am sure this lever will work, but if it is the wrong one it will bug me every time I get in the car. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0649.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 171987 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Jan 10 23:14:27 2017 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2017 14:14:27 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] condencer References: <426797236.2102518.1483736963644@mail.yahoo.com> <15986303ced-50b5-9ba5d@webprd-a05.mail.aol.com> It's likely a ballast resistor. These are added to some coils to moderate the coil voltage which helps to prolong the life of your contacts and maintain timing settings for a longer period of time. It's not really needed, especially if you are using Pertronix. On Tue, Jan 10, 2017 at 10:23 AM, wrote: > My BN6 came with a condenser on top of the coil but not attached to > anything. Any idea where this condenser is to be reinstalled and what > condenser should I replace it with. > Thanks > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Tue Jan 10 23:38:46 2017 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2017 01:38:46 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Correct Shift Lever References: <703102421.852990.1484110073416.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <703102421.852990.1484110073416@mail.yahoo.com> Hi Michael, Not sure how much this will help but the parts book lists 2 (alternative) part numbers for cars after C.E.231968. The numbers are 1B3760 & 1B3761. They are not designated as LHD and RHD. 1B3760 is the same part number listed for a the BN6/4. I have no idea what is different from the earlier types of which there were four numbers listed. 2 for LHD and 2 for RHD. The socket for the end of the lever is the same for all BN2 as are the knob and locknut. Michael S BN1 #174 On Tue, Jan 10, 2017 at 11:47 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > Does anyone know what the correct shift lever for a BN2 with a serial > number starting with 232XXX? (my car) I have one, but I want to be sure it > is correct for a car made in May 1956. I see a cutoff serial number in the > Moss catalog of 228487. Levers after that are the same for all later side > shift cars? Anyway here is a picture of the one I have now that a list > member was kind enough to make available to me. Problem is, the more I > find out about this car the more I know that I know less than I thought I > did. I am sure this lever will work, but if it is the wrong one it will > bug me every time I get in the car. > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > > -- *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue Jan 10 23:44:21 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2017 06:44:21 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Correct Shift Lever References: <703102421.852990.1484110073416.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <703102421.852990.1484110073416@mail.yahoo.com> Thanks Michael.? It's beginning to look like I should just use the one I got.? I just wanted to be sure before I paid for the chrome plating. That's going to be another problem.? No good chrome platers in Southern California or anywhere in California anymore.? I have polishing and plating that needs to be done.? Some powder coating too. On Tuesday, January 10, 2017 10:38 PM, Michael Salter wrote: Hi Michael, Not sure how much this will help but the parts book lists 2 (alternative) part numbers for cars after C.E.231968. The numbers are 1B3760 & 1B3761. They are not designated as LHD and RHD. 1B3760 is the same part number listed for a the BN6/4. I have no idea what is different from the earlier types of which there were four numbers listed. 2 for LHD and 2 for RHD. The socket for the end of the lever is the same for all BN2 as are the knob and locknut. Michael S BN1 #174 On Tue, Jan 10, 2017 at 11:47 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: Does anyone know what the correct shift lever for a BN2 with a serial number starting with 232XXX? (my car)? I have one, but I want to be sure it is correct for a car made in May 1956.? I see a cutoff serial number in the Moss catalog of 228487.? Levers after that are the same for all later side shift cars?? Anyway here is a picture of the one I have now that a list member was kind enough to make available to me.? Problem is, the more I find out about this car the more I know that I know less than I thought I did.? I am sure this lever will work, but if it is the wrong one it will bug me every time I get in the car. ______________________________ _________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/ listinfo/healeys -- If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Jan 11 01:40:23 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2017 09:40:23 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of washers... References: <1006366135.106161.1484031242439.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1006366135.106161.1484031242439@mail.yahoo.com> These look fairly similar to me. https://www.jeveka.com/nl/catalog/veerringen-schotelveren-zekeringsringen-voor-as-en-gat/tandveerringen-buitentanding/tandveerringen-gesl.buitentand-6798a010/g+c+a https://www.jeveka.com/nl/catalog/veerringen-schotelveren-zekeringsringen-voor-as-en-gat/tandveerringen-buitentanding/verzonken-tandveerringen-6798v010/g+c+a Kees Oudesluijs Op 10-1-2017 om 18:50 schreef Curtis Arndt: > Michael, > > No, here are the suspect parts. He needs the shake proof washer. > > Inline image 1 > > On Tue, Jan 10, 2017 at 7:43 AM, Michael Salter > > Hi Mike, > Are you referring to the washer (locating bracket) Part # 2K8929 > that has the split arm on it that turns the striker ring? > Sorry this is the only picture I could find. > Inline image 1 > Michael S > BN1 #174 > > On Tue, Jan 10, 2017 at 1:54 AM, Michael MacLean > > Where do you get the "shakeproof" washer that goes under the > steering wheel nut? Not available from the usual suspects. > Mike MacLean > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > > > > > > -- > /If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem./ > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: not available Type: image/png Size: 364759 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: not available Type: image/png Size: 715190 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ahbn6 at verizon.net Wed Jan 11 06:45:12 2017 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2017 08:45:12 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Web Site I have recently been made aware of a couple of broken links on www.healey6.com. Normally I spend the month of December validating each and every link. There are hundreds of them. Frankly, I do not have the time to perform a proper validation as in the past. My wife is confined to a wheel chair 24/7 which means that I do all the housework, cooking and shopping. Also, I am recovering from a severe concussion which entailed 6 days in a hospital. Watch out for ice! That being said, I need your help. If you see a link that is not working, please give me the particulars - page and link topic. I will fix them asap but I can not do it properly without your help. Thanks. John Sims Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Wed Jan 11 06:56:36 2017 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2017 08:56:36 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Robin Williams was a Healey owner? References: G'day Chris. I started a thread on BCF on "Celebrity Healeys" that I later turned into an article for *Healey Marque*: http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?80993-Celebrity-Healeys&highlight=celebrity I try to keep the thread updated as I stumble across a new one. Surprising what turns up, like your former PM, Paul Keating: http://fasterlouder.junkee.com/paul-keating-was-a-teenage-rocknroller/834543 Happy Healeying, Rick Neville On Tue, Jan 10, 2017 at 8:19 PM, Chris Dimmock wrote: > Just read this from an old (1979) interview article with Robin Williams. > > "The externals of the Williams' lifestyle have changed surprisingly little > since Mork. True, they moved from their rented beach apartment to a modest > (by Hollywood standards) under $200,000 canyon home. Robin describes it as > "rustic bordering on funk." Since his old Austin-Healey was stolen, he's > bought a silver BMW. He also acquired a malamute, Sam, who visits the > neighbors to watch TV (about all Williams watches is Taxi). On their acre > of land, Robin and Valerie plan to add two dwarf goats to a burgeoning > menagerie that now includes Polish chickens, Cora the parrot and Mr. I, the > iguana who lives under the refrigerator (his companion, Truman Capote, has > passed away). "My desire for material things is almost nonexistent," says > Williams, who points out that his suburban Detroit upbringing as the son of > a Ford Motor Co. exec accustomed him to comfort." > http://www.robin-williams.net/interviews/mork/79-10.php > > > Didn't know that! > Anyone know more? > Best > Chris > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rustyle at comcast.net Wed Jan 11 08:17:53 2017 From: rustyle at comcast.net (Rusty Lesher) Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2017 10:17:53 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Robin Williams was a Healey owner? References: Yes. I believe it was a 1959 3000. I had read about it long ago in my ex-wife?s People magazine. I wanted to help him locate the car, but was unable to contact him. From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of HealeyRick Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2017 8:57 AM To: Chris Dimmock Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Robin Williams was a Healey owner? G'day Chris. I started a thread on BCF on "Celebrity Healeys" that I later turned into an article for Healey Marque: http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?80993-Celebrity-Healeys &highlight=celebrity I try to keep the thread updated as I stumble across a new one. Surprising what turns up, like your former PM, Paul Keating: http://fasterlouder.junkee.com/paul-keating-was-a-teenage-rocknroller/834543 Happy Healeying, Rick Neville Just read this from an old (1979) interview article with Robin Williams. "The externals of the Williams' lifestyle have changed surprisingly little since Mork. True, they moved from their rented beach apartment to a modest (by Hollywood standards) under $200,000 canyon home. Robin describes it as "rustic bordering on funk." Since his old Austin-Healey was stolen, he's bought a silver BMW. He also acquired a malamute, Sam, who visits the neighbors to watch TV (about all Williams watches is Taxi). On their acre of land, Robin and Valerie plan to add two dwarf goats to a burgeoning menagerie that now includes Polish chickens, Cora the parrot and Mr. I, the iguana who lives under the refrigerator (his companion, Truman Capote, has passed away). "My desire for material things is almost nonexistent," says Williams, who points out that his suburban Detroit upbringing as the son of a Ford Motor Co. exec accustomed him to comfort." http://www.robin-williams.net/interviews/mork/79-10.php Didn't know that! Anyone know more? Best Chris _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ahbn6 at verizon.net Wed Jan 11 11:05:43 2017 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2017 13:05:43 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] My site Well, I learn something new every day. I always knew that Healey people are great but John New ran my site through an automated link checker and gave me a list of 54 broken links. I have already corrected three of them and will do more as the day progresses. About 15 of them are State government sites that I used for specialized vehicle licensing. Those will take some time to research as I remember pulling out what was left of my hair trying to find the obscure places initially that our DMV friends (or fiends) placed them on their site. We owe mucho thanks to John for giving me this list and also giving me a tool that I can use periodically! John Sims Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jnew at hazelden.ca Wed Jan 11 12:07:21 2017 From: jnew at hazelden.ca (John P. New) Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2017 14:07:21 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] My site References: <005001d26c35$53c101b0$fb430510$@verizon.net> John, Glad I could be of service. It's the least I could do for someone who has contributed so much to the Healey community and whose site is such a wealth of knowledge. John P. New London, Ontario, Canada '67 BJ8 On January 11, 2017 01:05:43 PM John Sims wrote: > Well, I learn something new every day. I always knew that Healey people are > great but John New ran my site through an automated link checker and gave me > a list of 54 broken links. I have already corrected three of them and will > do more as the day progresses. About 15 of them are State government sites > that I used for specialized vehicle licensing. Those will take some time to > research as I remember pulling out what was left of my hair trying to find > the obscure places initially that our DMV friends (or fiends) placed them on > their site. > > We owe mucho thanks to John for giving me this list and also giving me a > tool that I can use periodically! > > John Sims > > Aberdeen, NJ > > www.healey6.com From austinhealeyslist at gmail.com Wed Jan 11 15:50:48 2017 From: austinhealeyslist at gmail.com (Austin Healeys List) Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2017 11:50:48 +1300 Subject: [Healeys] 10-32 thin nuts Anyone got a source for the small nuts used on Healeys? Original dimensions: 5/16" across flats, 1/8" thick, 10-32 (3/16UNF) thread, zinc plated.I can only seem to find 3/8" wrench size or full thickness ones. Andy. From austinhealeyslist at gmail.com Wed Jan 11 16:13:07 2017 From: austinhealeyslist at gmail.com (Austin Healeys List) Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2017 12:13:07 +1300 Subject: [Healeys] seat base foam A few years back I fixed up the BN4 seat bases with repro polyurethane foam inserts and after only 2000 miles they are disintegrating because the 'D' hole in the reproduction wood frame is too big and offers no support to the foam in the middle of the seat. As a result the foam has split around the edges of the D and the centre section that is unsupported is breaking free from the rest. The foam was originally so firm it was uncomfortable so I did the holesaw trick to reduce its stiffness but this appears to have contributed to the disintegration. Is this a common issue? What are others doing? Attached are a couple of pics, one from an unrestored BN4 showing a much smaller D hole, the other is of the repro part. I'm thinking of remaking the base with the smaller D hole to try and stop the prolapse. Andy. -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: repro seat.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 39906 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: seat.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 398032 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michael.salter at gmail.com Wed Jan 11 16:17:12 2017 From: michael.salter at gmail.com (michael.salter at gmail.com) Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2017 23:17:12 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] 10-32 thin nuts References: Spae Naur Michael S BN1 #174 On Wed, Jan 11, 2017 at 6:01 PM -0500, "Austin Healeys List" wrote: Anyone got a source for the small nuts used on Healeys? Original dimensions: 5/16" across flats, 1/8" thick, 10-32 (3/16UNF) thread, zinc plated.I can only seem to find 3/8" wrench size or full thickness ones. Andy. _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20170111_181459.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3818151 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ah53 at yahoo.com Wed Jan 11 16:23:42 2017 From: ah53 at yahoo.com (jomar) Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2017 18:23:42 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 10-32 thin nuts References: Try Clarks Spares Joe Sent from my iPad > On Jan 11, 2017, at 5:50 PM, Austin Healeys List wrote: > > Anyone got a source for the small nuts used on Healeys? > > Original dimensions: 5/16" across flats, 1/8" thick, 10-32 (3/16UNF) > thread, zinc plated.I can only seem to find 3/8" wrench size or full > thickness ones. > > Andy. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah53 at yahoo.com > From michael.salter at gmail.com Wed Jan 11 16:40:58 2017 From: michael.salter at gmail.com (michael.salter at gmail.com) Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2017 23:40:58 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Gear knob locknut Sorry to bomb the list but ... Someone asked me about a BSF locknut for a gearknob but I cannot find the message. I have a couple please contact me. Michael S BN1 #174 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From goldengt at cal.net Wed Jan 11 16:59:08 2017 From: goldengt at cal.net (goldengt) Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2017 15:59:08 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] 10-32 thin nuts Most good hardware stores or McMaster Carr. They're called small pattern.?Ken Freese? Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------- Original message --------From: Austin Healeys List Date: 1/11/17 2:50 PM (GMT-08:00) To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] 10-32 thin nuts Anyone got a source for the small nuts used on Healeys? Original dimensions: 5/16" across flats, 1/8" thick, 10-32 (3/16UNF) thread, zinc plated.I can only seem to find 3/8" wrench size or full thickness ones. Andy. _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz Wed Jan 11 17:19:15 2017 From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson) Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2017 13:19:15 +1300 Subject: [Healeys] Correct Shift Lever References: <703102421.852990.1484110073416.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <703102421.852990.1484110073416@mail.yahoo.com> Michael, My BN2 #232844 was built on 11 June 1956. It has the same gear lever as your car. Mark Ardmore, NZ _____ From: Michael MacLean [mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net] Sent: Wednesday, 11 January 2017 5:48 p.m. To: Healeys Help Subject: [Healeys] Correct Shift Lever Does anyone know what the correct shift lever for a BN2 with a serial number starting with 232XXX? (my car) I have one, but I want to be sure it is correct for a car made in May 1956. I see a cutoff serial number in the Moss catalog of 228487. Levers after that are the same for all later side shift cars? Anyway here is a picture of the one I have now that a list member was kind enough to make available to me. Problem is, the more I find out about this car the more I know that I know less than I thought I did. I am sure this lever will work, but if it is the wrong one it will bug me every time I get in the car. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sentenac.rw at gmail.com Wed Jan 11 17:26:34 2017 From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (Roland Wilhelmy) Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2017 16:26:34 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] 10-32 thin nuts References: They are called Small Pattern Nuts. Available at many sources. I use McMaster-Carr. -Roland Sent?from?my?BlackBerry?10?smartphone. ? Original Message ? From: Austin Healeys List Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2017 3:07 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] 10-32 thin nuts Anyone got a source for the small nuts used on Healeys? Original dimensions: 5/16" across flats, 1/8" thick, 10-32 (3/16UNF) thread, zinc plated.I can only seem to find 3/8" wrench size or full thickness ones. Andy.? From rrengineer.mike at att.net Wed Jan 11 17:56:15 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2017 00:56:15 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] seat base foam References: According to British Car Specialist's Tech Talk book, you should have 7 rows front to back of 4 holes spaced 1 1/2" off the longitudinal center line and 2 1/2" apart from each other front to back and left to right.? The two rear holes should only be 1/2" deep and the rest only 1" deep.? This is done with a 1 3/4" hole saw with the center drill bit removed.? Not sure if this will make any difference with the size hole you have in your wood frame or not. I don't know how big or how deep you made the holes.? Sounds like you need new foam, drill the holes again then you need to install some webbing over the hole for some support of the foam.Mike MacLean? On Wednesday, January 11, 2017 4:07 PM, Austin Healeys List wrote: A few years back I fixed up the BN4 seat bases with repro polyurethane foam inserts and after only 2000 miles they are disintegrating because the 'D' hole in the reproduction wood frame is too big and offers no support to the foam in the middle of the seat. As a result the foam has split around the edges of the D and the centre section that is unsupported is breaking free from the rest. The foam was originally so firm it was uncomfortable so I did the holesaw trick to reduce its stiffness but this appears to have contributed to the disintegration. Is this a common issue? What are others doing? Attached are a couple of pics, one from an unrestored BN4 showing a much smaller D hole, the other is of the repro part. I'm thinking of remaking the base with the smaller D hole to try and stop the prolapse. Andy. _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Wed Jan 11 20:26:32 2017 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=) Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2017 19:26:32 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?belleville_washers?= when i rebuilt my steering gear in the bj8 i remember they were stacked one on top of the other facing down. that is how i put them back. hope i did it correctly. From austinhealeyslist at gmail.com Wed Jan 11 21:40:54 2017 From: austinhealeyslist at gmail.com (Austin Healeys List) Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2017 17:40:54 +1300 Subject: [Healeys] 10-32 thin nuts References: <20170112002634.4264020.32086.6605@gmail.com> Thanks everyone for the suggestions. So far I still haven't found them, the small pattern nuts are all 7/64 thick instead of 1/8. There are 1/8 thick nuts but they are either 3/8 or 11/32 wrench. I guess that size doesn't exist anymore. Andy. On 1/12/17, Roland Wilhelmy wrote: > They are called Small Pattern Nuts. Available at many sources. I use > McMaster-Carr. > -Roland From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Jan 11 21:52:44 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2017 20:52:44 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] belleville washers References: <20170112032632.26271.qmail@server278.com> The consensus--here and on the forum--is that they should be stacked 'back-to-back;' like ()()() Makes sense to me; although )()()( would probably work as well. Apparently, they are to act somewhat like a spring. Bob On 1/11/2017 7:26 PM, healeymanjim wrote: > when i rebuilt my steering gear in the bj8 i remember they were stacked one on top of the other facing down. that is how i > put them back. hope i did it correctly. > _______________________________________________ > > > From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Jan 12 08:56:11 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2017 07:56:11 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] belleville washers References: <20170112032632.26271.qmail@server278.com> Curious--to me--that, according to the Moss catalog--early steering boxes (BN1/early BN2) and later boxes (late BN4/6-BJ8) had a mechanism so that the peg could rotate. The early boxes used ball bearings, and the later boxes used roller bearings but the 'mid' box pegs were pressed in. The early and late box pegs were also spring-loaded; but the mid boxes had pegs fixed in place. Presumably, the rotate-able pegs would last longer--as would the worm (cam)--and might have better steering feel. The belleville washer setup was probably cheaper, but seems like a half-arsed solution to me. On 1/11/2017 8:52 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > The consensus--here and on the forum--is that they should be stacked > 'back-to-back;' like ()()() > > Makes sense to me; although )()()( would probably work as well. > Apparently, they are to act somewhat like a spring. > > Bob > > > > From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Jan 12 10:04:34 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2017 09:04:34 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box References: <5c4d20a5-d2ec-b119-8b67-e3a3923683eb@comcast.net> <001501d26b8e$fc7f3990$f57dacb0$@hunterbane.com> Well, I went ahead and ordered from Moss. I did a cursory check of the interwebs didn't turn up anything of those dimensions here: https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-washers/=15uvd84 and here: http://www.keybellevilles.com/bellevilles/sampleCatalog.php?gclid=CMCHjPHOuNECFQGRfgodVAoFuA and others, and I need to get this car back together before I start losing the little bits. FWIW, SC Parts and AH Spares have them at a more reasonable price--esp. with the current exchange rate--but with VAT and shipping it's not a massive savings. My thanks to Olin, Bob and others who responded; if I come across these in this size I'll make a note for future reference. Now, at least, I know what they're for and how to stack them. Bob On 1/10/2017 2:14 PM, Olin Brimberry wrote: > Bob, > > I figured height of the spring was also important, so I put 2 together and measured the height with calipers > Height of 2 washers: 0.100 inches > Height of 1 washer: 0.050 inches > Thickness of washer: 0.025 inches > Checking the previous diameter dimensions with a caliper, I get: > > ID: 1.057 inches > OD: 1.5 inches > > I suspect that the ID is originally spec'd to be 1-1/16" but because of the slight "spring", the diameter is slightly less. Good luck > > Olin K. Brimberry, PE > Principal Engineer > obrimberry at hunterbane.com > Office - 919.803.4274 > Mobile - 919.522.1608 > > HunterBane Engineering, PLLC > PO Box 10314 > Raleigh, NC 27605 > 3306 Alamance Drive > Raleigh, NC 27609 > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Olin Brimberry [mailto:obrimberry at hunterbane.com] > Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2017 4:34 PM > To: 'Bob Spidell'; 'Healeys' > Subject: RE: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box > > I just pulled mine out of a steering box I am rebuilding, and yes there are 6 positioned as such: ()()() Where only the outer edges touch. The dimensions are as follows: > > ID: 1-1/16 > OD: 1-1/2 > Pictures of the measurements are attached for verification purposes. > > The washers were loose on the shaft, but I think the closer tolerance is going to be on the OD side. > > Olin K. Brimberry, PE > Principal Engineer > obrimberry at hunterbane.com > Office - 919.803.4274 > Mobile - 919.522.1608 > > HunterBane Engineering, PLLC > PO Box 10314 > Raleigh, NC 27605 > 3306 Alamance Drive > Raleigh, NC 27609 > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at gmail.com Thu Jan 12 10:06:11 2017 From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock) Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2017 09:06:11 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] belleville washers References: <20170112032632.26271.qmail@server278.com> <7855ea0a-ed80-053b-cc95-7b24c9ea613a@comcast.net> All the Healey's from the BN2 thru the BJ8 have the Belleville washers in the steering box. They are installed in an alternate fashion to create a spring effect on the steering rocker shaft. The steering pegs changed from a fixed peg to a rotating peg when the box went to an aluminium box. I would assume to make a little smoother steering box. David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 209 948 8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2017 7:56 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] belleville washers Curious--to me--that, according to the Moss catalog--early steering boxes (BN1/early BN2) and later boxes (late BN4/6-BJ8) had a mechanism so that the peg could rotate. The early boxes used ball bearings, and the later boxes used roller bearings but the 'mid' box pegs were pressed in. The early and late box pegs were also spring-loaded; but the mid boxes had pegs fixed in place. Presumably, the rotate-able pegs would last longer--as would the worm (cam)--and might have better steering feel. The belleville washer setup was probably cheaper, but seems like a half-arsed solution to me. On 1/11/2017 8:52 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > The consensus--here and on the forum--is that they should be stacked > 'back-to-back;' like ()()() > > Makes sense to me; although )()()( would probably work as well. > Apparently, they are to act somewhat like a spring. > > Bob > > > > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Jan 12 10:18:49 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2017 09:18:49 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] belleville washers References: <20170112032632.26271.qmail@server278.com> <7855ea0a-ed80-053b-cc95-7b24c9ea613a@comcast.net> Right you are, David (as usual). The drawing shows them off to the side of the rocker, not on it like the late BN2 box, and I missed it. I wonder what the story is; were the rotatable, spring-loaded pegs or belleville washers alone not sufficient, so they went to both in the later boxes ('belt-and-suspenders')? On 1/12/2017 9:06 AM, David Nock wrote: > All the Healey's from the BN2 thru the BJ8 have the Belleville washers > in the steering box. They are installed in an alternate fashion to > create a spring effect on the steering rocker shaft. > > The steering pegs changed from a fixed peg to a rotating peg when the > box went to an aluminium box. I would assume to make a little smoother > steering box. > > > > David Nock > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > 209 948 8767 > www.britishcarspecialists.com > > > -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell > Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2017 7:56 AM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] belleville washers > > Curious--to me--that, according to the Moss catalog--early steering > boxes (BN1/early BN2) and later boxes (late BN4/6-BJ8) had a mechanism > so that the peg could rotate. The early boxes used ball bearings, and > the later boxes used roller bearings but the 'mid' box pegs were pressed > in. The early and late box pegs were also spring-loaded; but the mid > boxes had pegs fixed in place. Presumably, the rotate-able pegs would > last longer--as would the worm (cam)--and might have better steering > feel. The belleville washer setup was probably cheaper, but seems like > a half-arsed solution to me. > > > > > From bighealey3k at aim.com Thu Jan 12 12:21:58 2017 From: bighealey3k at aim.com (Larry Wendland) Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2017 14:21:58 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of washers... References: <1006366135.106161.1484031242439.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1006366135.106161.1484031242439@mail.yahoo.com> Mike, Google "star washer" and you will get all kinds of examples of a "shakeproof" washer. I've always called them star washers. Hope this helps. Larry '67 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: Michael MacLean To: Healeys Help Sent: Tue, Jan 10, 2017 4:01 am Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of washers... Where do you get the "shakeproof" washer that goes under the steering wheel nut?? Not available from the usual suspects. Mike MacLean _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From bighealey3k at aim.com Thu Jan 12 12:48:34 2017 From: bighealey3k at aim.com (Larry Wendland) Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2017 14:48:34 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of washers... Mike, I also found this linke to McMaster-Carr that shows the "shakeproof" washer a "tooth lock" washer and they show just about anything you want to know about washers. Larry '67 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: Larry Wendland To: rrengineer.mike ; healeys Sent: Thu, Jan 12, 2017 2:21 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Speaking of washers... Mike, Google "star washer" and you will get all kinds of examples of a "shakeproof" washer. I've always called them star washers. Hope this helps. Larry '67 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: Michael MacLean To: Healeys Help Sent: Tue, Jan 10, 2017 4:01 am Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of washers... Where do you get the "shakeproof" washer that goes under the steering wheel nut?? Not available from the usual suspects. Mike MacLean _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From bighealey3k at aim.com Thu Jan 12 12:50:24 2017 From: bighealey3k at aim.com (Larry Wendland) Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2017 14:50:24 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of washers... Mike, I forgot to include the link. Here it is. https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-washers/=15uvd84 -----Original Message----- From: Larry Wendland To: bighealey3k ; rrengineer.mike ; healeys Sent: Thu, Jan 12, 2017 2:48 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Speaking of washers... Mike, I also found this linke to McMaster-Carr that shows the "shakeproof" washer a "tooth lock" washer and they show just about anything you want to know about washers. Larry '67 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: Larry Wendland To: rrengineer.mike ; healeys Sent: Thu, Jan 12, 2017 2:21 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Speaking of washers... Mike, Google "star washer" and you will get all kinds of examples of a "shakeproof" washer. I've always called them star washers. Hope this helps. Larry '67 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: Michael MacLean To: Healeys Help Sent: Tue, Jan 10, 2017 4:01 am Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of washers... Where do you get the "shakeproof" washer that goes under the steering wheel nut?? Not available from the usual suspects. Mike MacLean _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From rrengineer.mike at att.net Thu Jan 12 13:37:45 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2017 20:37:45 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box References: <5c4d20a5-d2ec-b119-8b67-e3a3923683eb@comcast.net> <001501d26b8e$fc7f3990$f57dacb0$@hunterbane.com> <3bcd1b68-3f2d-077b-07a7-1501c1ea4f7d@comcast.net> I don't believe you have to pay the Value Added Tax unless you live in the UK.Mike MacLean On Thursday, January 12, 2017 9:29 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: Well, I went ahead and ordered from Moss.? I did a cursory check of the interwebs didn't turn up anything of those dimensions here: https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-washers/=15uvd84 and here: http://www.keybellevilles.com/bellevilles/sampleCatalog.php?gclid=CMCHjPHOuNECFQGRfgodVAoFuA and others, and I need to get this car back together before I start losing the little bits.?? FWIW, SC Parts and AH Spares have them at a more reasonable price--esp. with the current exchange rate--but with VAT and shipping it's not a massive savings. My thanks to Olin, Bob and others who responded; if I come across these in this size I'll make a note for future reference.? Now, at least, I know what they're for and how to stack them. Bob On 1/10/2017 2:14 PM, Olin Brimberry wrote: Bob, I figured height of the spring was also important, so I put 2 together and measured the height with calipers Height of 2 washers: 0.100 inches Height of 1 washer: 0.050 inches Thickness of washer: 0.025 inches Checking the previous diameter dimensions with a caliper, I get: ID: 1.057 inches OD: 1.5 inches I suspect that the ID is originally spec'd to be 1-1/16" but because of the slight "spring", the diameter is slightly less. Good luck Olin K. Brimberry, PE Principal Engineer obrimberry at hunterbane.com Office - 919.803.4274 Mobile - 919.522.1608 HunterBane Engineering, PLLC PO Box 10314 Raleigh, NC 27605 3306 Alamance Drive Raleigh, NC 27609 -----Original Message----- From: Olin Brimberry [mailto:obrimberry at hunterbane.com] Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2017 4:34 PM To: 'Bob Spidell' ; 'Healeys' Subject: RE: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box I just pulled mine out of a steering box I am rebuilding, and yes there are 6 positioned as such: ()()() Where only the outer edges touch. The dimensions are as follows: ID: 1-1/16 OD: 1-1/2 Pictures of the measurements are attached for verification purposes. The washers were loose on the shaft, but I think the closer tolerance is going to be on the OD side. Olin K. Brimberry, PE Principal Engineer obrimberry at hunterbane.com Office - 919.803.4274 Mobile - 919.522.1608 HunterBane Engineering, PLLC PO Box 10314 Raleigh, NC 27605 3306 Alamance Drive Raleigh, NC 27609 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gablegerry at netscape.net Thu Jan 12 19:23:52 2017 From: gablegerry at netscape.net (gablegerry at netscape.net) Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2017 21:23:52 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] wire harness References: Looking for an point of view. should one replace the wire harness that is braided or try to follow the original that appears to be PVC and banded together with black rap. The original is not that bad but again not that good. thanks can some who is on the MGT list know how to get on it? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Thu Jan 12 21:40:50 2017 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Fri, 13 Jan 2017 04:40:50 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box References: <5c4d20a5-d2ec-b119-8b67-e3a3923683eb@comcast.net> <001501d26b8e$fc7f3990$f57dacb0$@hunterbane.com> <3bcd1b68-3f2d-077b-07a7-1501c1ea4f7d@comcast.net>, <466283033.2041910.1484253465615@mail.yahoo.com> That's correct, you only pay VAT if you live in the UK. Jean ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Michael MacLean Sent: January 12, 2017 8:37 PM To: Bob Spidell; Olin Brimberry; 'Healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box I don't believe you have to pay the Value Added Tax unless you live in the UK. Mike MacLean On Thursday, January 12, 2017 9:29 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: Well, I went ahead and ordered from Moss. I did a cursory check of the interwebs didn't turn up anything of those dimensions here: https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-washers/=15uvd84 [https://images1.mcmaster.com/mvA/gfx/mcm_logo_hires.png?ver=1452869604] McMaster-Carr www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr supplies products used to maintain manufacturing plants and large commercial facilities worldwide. and here: http://www.keybellevilles.com/bellevilles/sampleCatalog.php?gclid=CMCHjPHOuNECFQGRfgodVAoFuA Belleville Washer Catalog www.keybellevilles.com The catalog reflects 800 of our 10,000 finished parts in stock. Contact us to see if your part is a stock item. CATALOG SEARCH and others, and I need to get this car back together before I start losing the little bits. FWIW, SC Parts and AH Spares have them at a more reasonable price--esp. with the current exchange rate--but with VAT and shipping it's not a massive savings. My thanks to Olin, Bob and others who responded; if I come across these in this size I'll make a note for future reference. Now, at least, I know what they're for and how to stack them. Bob On 1/10/2017 2:14 PM, Olin Brimberry wrote: Bob, I figured height of the spring was also important, so I put 2 together and measured the height with calipers Height of 2 washers: 0.100 inches Height of 1 washer: 0.050 inches Thickness of washer: 0.025 inches Checking the previous diameter dimensions with a caliper, I get: ID: 1.057 inches OD: 1.5 inches I suspect that the ID is originally spec'd to be 1-1/16" but because of the slight "spring", the diameter is slightly less. Good luck Olin K. Brimberry, PE Principal Engineer Office - 919.803.4274 Mobile - 919.522.1608 HunterBane Engineering, PLLC PO Box 10314 Raleigh, NC 27605 3306 Alamance Drive Raleigh, NC 27609 -----Original Message----- From: Olin Brimberry [mailto:obrimberry at hunterbane.com] Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2017 4:34 PM Subject: RE: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box I just pulled mine out of a steering box I am rebuilding, and yes there are 6 positioned as such: ()()() Where only the outer edges touch. The dimensions are as follows: ID: 1-1/16 OD: 1-1/2 Pictures of the measurements are attached for verification purposes. The washers were loose on the shaft, but I think the closer tolerance is going to be on the OD side. Olin K. Brimberry, PE Principal Engineer Office - 919.803.4274 Mobile - 919.522.1608 HunterBane Engineering, PLLC PO Box 10314 Raleigh, NC 27605 3306 Alamance Drive Raleigh, NC 27609 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Jan 12 22:37:18 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2017 21:37:18 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box References: <5c4d20a5-d2ec-b119-8b67-e3a3923683eb@comcast.net> <001501d26b8e$fc7f3990$f57dacb0$@hunterbane.com> <3bcd1b68-3f2d-077b-07a7-1501c1ea4f7d@comcast.net> <466283033.2041910.1484253465615@mail.yahoo.com> Cool. I'm a Californian, so if there's a tax I assumed I have to pay it. On 1/12/2017 8:40 PM, Jean Caron wrote: > > That's correct, you only pay VAT if you live in the UK. > > > Jean > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys on behalf of Michael > MacLean > *Sent:* January 12, 2017 8:37 PM > *To:* Bob Spidell; Olin Brimberry; 'Healeys' > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box > I don't believe you have to pay the Value Added Tax unless you live in > the UK. > Mike MacLean > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From neilandcustom at gmail.com Fri Jan 13 08:27:02 2017 From: neilandcustom at gmail.com (Neil Anderson) Date: Fri, 13 Jan 2017 09:27:02 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box References: <5c4d20a5-d2ec-b119-8b67-e3a3923683eb@comcast.net> <001501d26b8e$fc7f3990$f57dacb0$@hunterbane.com> <3bcd1b68-3f2d-077b-07a7-1501c1ea4f7d@comcast.net> Bob, FWIW, there would be no VAT on export orders from the UK, but shipping is getting really expensive. Neil Anderson BT7 On Thu, Jan 12, 2017 at 11:04 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > Well, I went ahead and ordered from Moss. I did a cursory check of the > interwebs didn't turn up anything of those dimensions here: > > https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-washers/=15uvd84 > > and here: > > http://www.keybellevilles.com/bellevilles/sampleCatalog.php?gclid= > CMCHjPHOuNECFQGRfgodVAoFuA > > and others, and I need to get this car back together before I start losing > the little bits. FWIW, SC Parts and AH Spares have them at a more > reasonable price--esp. with the current exchange rate--but with VAT and > shipping it's not a massive savings. > > My thanks to Olin, Bob and others who responded; if I come across these in > this size I'll make a note for future reference. Now, at least, I know > what they're for and how to stack them. > > Bob > > On 1/10/2017 2:14 PM, Olin Brimberry wrote: > > Bob, > > I figured height of the spring was also important, so I put 2 together and measured the height with calipers > Height of 2 washers: 0.100 inches > Height of 1 washer: 0.050 inches > Thickness of washer: 0.025 inches > Checking the previous diameter dimensions with a caliper, I get: > > ID: 1.057 inches > OD: 1.5 inches > > I suspect that the ID is originally spec'd to be 1-1/16" but because of the slight "spring", the diameter is slightly less. Good luck > > Olin K. Brimberry, PE > Principal Engineerobrimberry at hunterbane.com > Office - 919.803.4274 <(919)%20803-4274> > Mobile - 919.522.1608 <(919)%20522-1608> > > HunterBane Engineering, PLLC > PO Box 10314 > Raleigh, NC 27605 > 3306 Alamance Drive > Raleigh, NC 27609 > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Olin Brimberry [mailto:obrimberry at hunterbane.com ] > Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2017 4:34 PM > To: 'Bob Spidell' ; 'Healeys' > Subject: RE: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box > > I just pulled mine out of a steering box I am rebuilding, and yes there are 6 positioned as such: ()()() Where only the outer edges touch. The dimensions are as follows: > > ID: 1-1/16 > OD: 1-1/2 > Pictures of the measurements are attached for verification purposes. > > The washers were loose on the shaft, but I think the closer tolerance is going to be on the OD side. > > Olin K. Brimberry, PE > Principal Engineerobrimberry at hunterbane.com > Office - 919.803.4274 <(919)%20803-4274> > Mobile - 919.522.1608 <(919)%20522-1608> > > HunterBane Engineering, PLLC > PO Box 10314 > Raleigh, NC 27605 > 3306 Alamance Drive > Raleigh, NC 27609 > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/neilandcustom at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Jan 13 09:03:44 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Fri, 13 Jan 2017 17:03:44 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box References: <5c4d20a5-d2ec-b119-8b67-e3a3923683eb@comcast.net> <001501d26b8e$fc7f3990$f57dacb0$@hunterbane.com> <3bcd1b68-3f2d-077b-07a7-1501c1ea4f7d@comcast.net> Not for a few washers popped in a sturdy envelope as regular unregistered mail! Kees Oudesluijs Op 13-1-2017 om 16:27 schreef Neil Anderson: > Bob, > > FWIW, there would be no VAT on export orders from the UK, but shipping > is getting really expensive. > > Neil Anderson > BT7 > > On Thu, Jan 12, 2017 at 11:04 AM, Bob Spidell > Well, I went ahead and ordered from Moss. I did a cursory check > of the interwebs didn't turn up anything of those dimensions here: > > https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-washers/=15uvd84 > > > and here: > > http://www.keybellevilles.com/bellevilles/sampleCatalog.php?gclid=CMCHjPHOuNECFQGRfgodVAoFuA > > > and others, and I need to get this car back together before I > start losing the little bits. FWIW, SC Parts and AH Spares have > them at a more reasonable price--esp. with the current exchange > rate--but with VAT and shipping it's not a massive savings. > > My thanks to Olin, Bob and others who responded; if I come across > these in this size I'll make a note for future reference. Now, at > least, I know what they're for and how to stack them. > > Bob > > > On 1/10/2017 2:14 PM, Olin Brimberry wrote: >> Bob, >> >> I figured height of the spring was also important, so I put 2 together and measured the height with calipers >> Height of 2 washers: 0.100 inches >> Height of 1 washer: 0.050 inches >> Thickness of washer: 0.025 inches >> Checking the previous diameter dimensions with a caliper, I get: >> >> ID: 1.057 inches >> OD: 1.5 inches >> >> I suspect that the ID is originally spec'd to be 1-1/16" but because of the slight "spring", the diameter is slightly less. Good luck >> >> Olin K. Brimberry, PE >> Principal Engineer >> Office -919.803.4274 >> Mobile -919.522.1608 >> >> HunterBane Engineering, PLLC >> PO Box 10314 >> Raleigh, NC 27605 >> 3306 Alamance Drive >> Raleigh, NC 27609 >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2017 4:34 PM >> Subject: RE: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box >> >> I just pulled mine out of a steering box I am rebuilding, and yes there are 6 positioned as such: ()()() Where only the outer edges touch. The dimensions are as follows: >> >> ID: 1-1/16 >> OD: 1-1/2 >> Pictures of the measurements are attached for verification purposes. >> >> The washers were loose on the shaft, but I think the closer tolerance is going to be on the OD side. >> >> Olin K. Brimberry, PE >> Principal Engineer >> Office -919.803.4274 >> Mobile -919.522.1608 >> >> HunterBane Engineering, PLLC >> PO Box 10314 >> Raleigh, NC 27605 >> 3306 Alamance Drive >> Raleigh, NC 27609 >> >> >> > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net > http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: > http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/neilandcustom at gmail.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From frogeye at porterscustom.com Fri Jan 13 09:29:12 2017 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Fri, 13 Jan 2017 09:29:12 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box References: <5c4d20a5-d2ec-b119-8b67-e3a3923683eb@comcast.net> <001501d26b8e$fc7f3990$f57dacb0$@hunterbane.com> <3bcd1b68-3f2d-077b-07a7-1501c1ea4f7d@comcast.net> <74232496-16d2-67f7-a97e-a595c7ecfda5@chello.nl> http://www.bokers.com/washers.asp?gclid=CjwKEAiAkuLDBRCRguCgvITww0YSJAAHrpf-bGE1LEP4rw6GNnk--UMElG2XTfvvzeDD4TOZDFPI6RoC0Jfw_wcB Just so you all know... On 1/13/2017 9:03 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > Not for a few washers popped in a sturdy envelope as regular > unregistered mail! > Kees Oudesluijs > > > Op 13-1-2017 om 16:27 schreef Neil Anderson: >> Bob, >> >> FWIW, there would be no VAT on export orders from the UK, but >> shipping is getting really expensive. >> >> Neil Anderson >> BT7 >> >> On Thu, Jan 12, 2017 at 11:04 AM, Bob Spidell > >> Well, I went ahead and ordered from Moss. I did a cursory check >> of the interwebs didn't turn up anything of those dimensions here: >> >> https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-washers/=15uvd84 >> >> >> and here: >> >> http://www.keybellevilles.com/bellevilles/sampleCatalog.php?gclid=CMCHjPHOuNECFQGRfgodVAoFuA >> >> >> and others, and I need to get this car back together before I >> start losing the little bits. FWIW, SC Parts and AH Spares have >> them at a more reasonable price--esp. with the current exchange >> rate--but with VAT and shipping it's not a massive savings. >> >> My thanks to Olin, Bob and others who responded; if I come across >> these in this size I'll make a note for future reference. Now, >> at least, I know what they're for and how to stack them. >> >> Bob >> >> >> On 1/10/2017 2:14 PM, Olin Brimberry wrote: >>> Bob, >>> >>> I figured height of the spring was also important, so I put 2 together and measured the height with calipers >>> Height of 2 washers: 0.100 inches >>> Height of 1 washer: 0.050 inches >>> Thickness of washer: 0.025 inches >>> Checking the previous diameter dimensions with a caliper, I get: >>> >>> ID: 1.057 inches >>> OD: 1.5 inches >>> >>> I suspect that the ID is originally spec'd to be 1-1/16" but because of the slight "spring", the diameter is slightly less. Good luck >>> >>> Olin K. Brimberry, PE >>> Principal Engineer >>> Office -919.803.4274 >>> Mobile -919.522.1608 >>> >>> HunterBane Engineering, PLLC >>> PO Box 10314 >>> Raleigh, NC 27605 >>> 3306 Alamance Drive >>> Raleigh, NC 27609 >>> >>> >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2017 4:34 PM >>> Subject: RE: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box >>> >>> I just pulled mine out of a steering box I am rebuilding, and yes there are 6 positioned as such: ()()() Where only the outer edges touch. The dimensions are as follows: >>> >>> ID: 1-1/16 >>> OD: 1-1/2 >>> Pictures of the measurements are attached for verification purposes. >>> >>> The washers were loose on the shaft, but I think the closer tolerance is going to be on the OD side. >>> >>> Olin K. Brimberry, PE >>> Principal Engineer >>> Office -919.803.4274 >>> Mobile -919.522.1608 >>> >>> HunterBane Engineering, PLLC >>> PO Box 10314 >>> Raleigh, NC 27605 >>> 3306 Alamance Drive >>> Raleigh, NC 27609 >>> >>> >>> >> _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net >> http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: >> http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/neilandcustom at gmail.com >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive:http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums:http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com > -- Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Fri Jan 13 11:49:05 2017 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Fri, 13 Jan 2017 13:49:05 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] wire harness References: <15995a36a7f-2b88-a87b@webprd-m25.mail.aol.com> Depends upon what you are trying to achieve. If you want to end up with a driver (20 foot) car that Aunt Mary describes as "cute" then whatever works will be just fine. If you are looking to end up with something that someone with some knowledge of classic car restoration will appreciate then replace the harness with one that closely replicates the original. You don't mention what model of Healey you are working on but originally it would have had cloth covered wire with a cloth covering on the harness (Pre Oct 58) or PVC insulated wires with a cloth harness outer cover after tht date. Michael S Concours Guidelines Committee On Thu, Jan 12, 2017 at 9:23 PM, wrote: > > Looking for an point of view. should one replace the wire harness that is > braided or try to follow the original that appears to be PVC and banded > together with black rap. The original is not that bad but again not that > good. > thanks > can some who is on the MGT list know how to get on it? > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > > -- *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Jan 13 11:58:45 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 13 Jan 2017 10:58:45 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box References: <5c4d20a5-d2ec-b119-8b67-e3a3923683eb@comcast.net> <001501d26b8e$fc7f3990$f57dacb0$@hunterbane.com> <3bcd1b68-3f2d-077b-07a7-1501c1ea4f7d@comcast.net> <74232496-16d2-67f7-a97e-a595c7ecfda5@chello.nl> <5c7491ed-83cc-6a30-5b0c-5b63837e0aa5@porterscustom.com> Looks like they only produce for companies. As fate would have it, Moss sent me 7; I can't imagine that a custom production run would be economically feasible, but if someone wants to do it I have a sample. On 1/13/2017 8:29 AM, David Porter wrote: > > http://www.bokers.com/washers.asp?gclid=CjwKEAiAkuLDBRCRguCgvITww0YSJAAHrpf-bGE1LEP4rw6GNnk--UMElG2XTfvvzeDD4TOZDFPI6RoC0Jfw_wcB > > Just so you all know... > > From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Jan 13 12:27:11 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 13 Jan 2017 11:27:11 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box References: <5c4d20a5-d2ec-b119-8b67-e3a3923683eb@comcast.net> <001501d26b8e$fc7f3990$f57dacb0$@hunterbane.com> <3bcd1b68-3f2d-077b-07a7-1501c1ea4f7d@comcast.net> I wanted to buy a luggage rack from England, They wanted 248 BPS for the rack and 125 BPS to ship. I told them to find a cheaper way to ship or I would not buy the rack. They told me too bad that was what it cost to ship. Other suppliers have been willing to find a cheaper way to ship when I asked... But no VAT applied :) Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 7:27 AM, Neil Anderson wrote: > Bob, > > FWIW, there would be no VAT on export orders from the UK, but shipping is > getting really expensive. > > Neil Anderson > BT7 > > On Thu, Jan 12, 2017 at 11:04 AM, Bob Spidell > wrote: > >> Well, I went ahead and ordered from Moss. I did a cursory check of the >> interwebs didn't turn up anything of those dimensions here: >> >> https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-washers/=15uvd84 >> >> and here: >> >> http://www.keybellevilles.com/bellevilles/sampleCatalog.php? >> gclid=CMCHjPHOuNECFQGRfgodVAoFuA >> >> and others, and I need to get this car back together before I start >> losing the little bits. FWIW, SC Parts and AH Spares have them at a more >> reasonable price--esp. with the current exchange rate--but with VAT and >> shipping it's not a massive savings. >> >> My thanks to Olin, Bob and others who responded; if I come across these >> in this size I'll make a note for future reference. Now, at least, I know >> what they're for and how to stack them. >> >> Bob >> >> On 1/10/2017 2:14 PM, Olin Brimberry wrote: >> >> Bob, >> >> I figured height of the spring was also important, so I put 2 together and measured the height with calipers >> Height of 2 washers: 0.100 inches >> Height of 1 washer: 0.050 inches >> Thickness of washer: 0.025 inches >> Checking the previous diameter dimensions with a caliper, I get: >> >> ID: 1.057 inches >> OD: 1.5 inches >> >> I suspect that the ID is originally spec'd to be 1-1/16" but because of the slight "spring", the diameter is slightly less. Good luck >> >> Olin K. Brimberry, PE >> Principal Engineerobrimberry at hunterbane.com >> Office - 919.803.4274 <(919)%20803-4274> >> Mobile - 919.522.1608 <(919)%20522-1608> >> >> HunterBane Engineering, PLLC >> PO Box 10314 >> Raleigh, NC 27605 >> 3306 Alamance Drive >> Raleigh, NC 27609 >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Olin Brimberry [mailto:obrimberry at hunterbane.com ] >> Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2017 4:34 PM >> To: 'Bob Spidell' ; 'Healeys' >> Subject: RE: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box >> >> I just pulled mine out of a steering box I am rebuilding, and yes there are 6 positioned as such: ()()() Where only the outer edges touch. The dimensions are as follows: >> >> ID: 1-1/16 >> OD: 1-1/2 >> Pictures of the measurements are attached for verification purposes. >> >> The washers were loose on the shaft, but I think the closer tolerance is going to be on the OD side. >> >> Olin K. Brimberry, PE >> Principal Engineerobrimberry at hunterbane.com >> Office - 919.803.4274 <(919)%20803-4274> >> Mobile - 919.522.1608 <(919)%20522-1608> >> >> HunterBane Engineering, PLLC >> PO Box 10314 >> Raleigh, NC 27605 >> 3306 Alamance Drive >> Raleigh, NC 27609 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/neilandcustom at gmail.com >> >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Fri Jan 13 14:39:56 2017 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Fri, 13 Jan 2017 13:39:56 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box References: <5c4d20a5-d2ec-b119-8b67-e3a3923683eb@comcast.net> <001501d26b8e$fc7f3990$f57dacb0$@hunterbane.com> <3bcd1b68-3f2d-077b-07a7-1501c1ea4f7d@comcast.net> <74232496-16d2-67f7-a97e-a595c7ecfda5@chello.nl> <5c7491ed-83cc-6a30-5b0c-5b63837e0aa5@porterscustom.com> If anyone needs a set, or even just one or two belleville washers, I have some I can sell. On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 10:58 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > Looks like they only produce for companies. As fate would have it, Moss > sent me 7; I can't imagine that a custom production run would be > economically feasible, but if someone wants to do it I have a sample. > > > On 1/13/2017 8:29 AM, David Porter wrote: > >> >> http://www.bokers.com/washers.asp?gclid=CjwKEAiAkuLDBRCRguCg >> vITww0YSJAAHrpf-bGE1LEP4rw6GNnk--UMElG2XTfvvzeDD4TOZDFPI6RoC0Jfw_wcB >> >> Just so you all know... >> >> >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From josef-eckert at t-online.de Fri Jan 13 15:16:09 2017 From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de) Date: Fri, 13 Jan 2017 23:16:09 +0100 (MET) Subject: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box References: <5c4d20a5-d2ec-b119-8b67-e3a3923683eb@comcast.net> <001501d26b8e$fc7f3990$f57dacb0$@hunterbane.com> <3bcd1b68-3f2d-077b-07a7-1501c1ea4f7d@comcast.net> I presume considerable import tax will be added very soon for all non American products. -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box Datum: 2017-01-13T23:07:04+0100 Von: "i erbs" An: "Neil Anderson" I wanted to buy a luggage rack from England, They wanted 248 BPS for the rack and 125 BPS to ship. I told them to find a cheaper way to ship or I would not buy the rack. They told me too bad that was what it cost to ship. Other suppliers have been willing to find a cheaper way to ship when I asked... But no VAT applied :) Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 7:27 AM, Neil Anderson and here: http://www.keybellevilles.com/bellevilles/sampleCatalog.php? gclid=CMCHjPHOuNECFQGRfgodVAoFuA and others, and I need to get this car back together before I start losing the little bits. FWIW, SC Parts and AH Spares have them at a more reasonable price--esp. with the current exchange rate--but with VAT and shipping it's not a massive savings. My thanks to Olin, Bob and others who responded; if I come across these in this size I'll make a note for future reference. Now, at least, I know what they're for and how to stack them. Bob On 1/10/2017 2:14 PM, Olin Brimberry wrote: Bob, I figured height of the spring was also important, so I put 2 together and measured the height with calipers Height of 2 washers: 0.100 inches Height of 1 washer: 0.050 inches Thickness of washer: 0.025 inches Checking the previous diameter dimensions with a caliper, I get: ID: 1.057 inches OD: 1.5 inches I suspect that the ID is originally spec'd to be 1-1/16" but because of the slight "spring", the diameter is slightly less. Good luck Olin K. Brimberry, PE Principal Engineer obrimberry at hunterbane.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ options/healeys/neilandcustom at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dcorning at ford.com Fri Jan 13 15:44:10 2017 From: dcorning at ford.com (Corning, Dan (D.C.)) Date: Fri, 13 Jan 2017 22:44:10 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] A Different Harness Question (Routing) I purchased the correct harness for my 62 BT7 Tri-Carb. I also purchased Prospero's wiring diagram for the car. Question: Does anyone have any references regarding the proper harness routing for the car? I'm trying to position the harness as close to the original location and attachment points as I can but the only references I have are what I can find in catalogs and internet photos. Best, Dan Corning -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Jan 13 16:29:17 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 13 Jan 2017 23:29:17 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] wire harness References: <15995a36a7f-2b88-a87b@webprd-m25.mail.aol.com> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From 050.rpl at gmail.com Fri Jan 13 21:32:13 2017 From: 050.rpl at gmail.com (R. Lindsay) Date: Fri, 13 Jan 2017 23:32:13 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Head Bolts I have removed the left rear head bolt to replace the vacuum hose from the dizzy to the carbs (don?t ask). When I unscrewed the nut/bolt, the entire bolt came out ( the nut did not come loose). Now I need to put it all back. Should I break the nut from the head bolt and put them back in individually, or just put it back in as a single unit? Also, I believe the torque on the bolt/nut is 70 foot pounds: can someone confirm this. Thank you so much!! Price Lindsay 67 BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Sat Jan 14 03:44:48 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2017 10:44:48 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box References: <5c4d20a5-d2ec-b119-8b67-e3a3923683eb@comcast.net> <001501d26b8e$fc7f3990$f57dacb0$@hunterbane.com> <3bcd1b68-3f2d-077b-07a7-1501c1ea4f7d@comcast.net> Hi, Try someone like this:- https://www.parcel2go.com/ ie make your own shipping arrangements via a courier of your own choosing. I use people off this site quite often when I think I?m about to be ripped off on P&P. I just got a quote for a spoof package: 500mmH X 300mmL X 200mmH at 9kilo. Pick up UK, delivered USA, including ?Protection?(?). 4 days+ ETA. ?120:00 delivery to the US at a ?Take it or Leave it; we really don?t give a stuff? rate is appalling. Unless it includes a huge amount of import dues. But I imagine that those iniquities are handled separately in the US, just like they are here? Simon From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of i erbs Sent: 13 January 2017 19:27 To: Neil Anderson Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box I wanted to buy a luggage rack from England, They wanted 248 BPS for the rack and 125 BPS to ship. I told them to find a cheaper way to ship or I would not buy the rack. They told me too bad that was what it cost to ship. Other suppliers have been willing to find a cheaper way to ship when I asked... But no VAT applied :) Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 7:27 AM, Neil Anderson wrote: Bob, FWIW, there would be no VAT on export orders from the UK, but shipping is getting really expensive. Neil Anderson BT7 On Thu, Jan 12, 2017 at 11:04 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: Well, I went ahead and ordered from Moss. I did a cursory check of the interwebs didn't turn up anything of those dimensions here: https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-washers/=15uvd84 and here: http://www.keybellevilles.com/bellevilles/sampleCatalog.php?gclid=CMCHjPHOuNECFQGRfgodVAoFuA and others, and I need to get this car back together before I start losing the little bits. FWIW, SC Parts and AH Spares have them at a more reasonable price--esp. with the current exchange rate--but with VAT and shipping it's not a massive savings. My thanks to Olin, Bob and others who responded; if I come across these in this size I'll make a note for future reference. Now, at least, I know what they're for and how to stack them. Bob On 1/10/2017 2:14 PM, Olin Brimberry wrote: Bob, I figured height of the spring was also important, so I put 2 together and measured the height with calipers Height of 2 washers: 0.100 inches Height of 1 washer: 0.050 inches Thickness of washer: 0.025 inches Checking the previous diameter dimensions with a caliper, I get: ID: 1.057 inches OD: 1.5 inches I suspect that the ID is originally spec'd to be 1-1/16" but because of the slight "spring", the diameter is slightly less. Good luck Olin K. Brimberry, PE Principal Engineer obrimberry at hunterbane.com Office - 919.803.4274 Mobile - 919.522.1608 HunterBane Engineering, PLLC PO Box 10314 Raleigh, NC 27605 3306 Alamance Drive Raleigh, NC 27609 -----Original Message----- From: Olin Brimberry [mailto:obrimberry at hunterbane.com] Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2017 4:34 PM Subject: RE: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box I just pulled mine out of a steering box I am rebuilding, and yes there are 6 positioned as such: ()()() Where only the outer edges touch. The dimensions are as follows: ID: 1-1/16 OD: 1-1/2 Pictures of the measurements are attached for verification purposes. The washers were loose on the shaft, but I think the closer tolerance is going to be on the OD side. Olin K. Brimberry, PE Principal Engineer obrimberry at hunterbane.com Office - 919.803.4274 Mobile - 919.522.1608 HunterBane Engineering, PLLC PO Box 10314 Raleigh, NC 27605 3306 Alamance Drive Raleigh, NC 27609 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ahbn6 at verizon.net Sat Jan 14 05:15:46 2017 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2017 07:15:46 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] FW: BN4 - 100/6 front suspension References: <003001d26df7$b3795a30$1a6c0e90$@bigpond.net.au> Can one of you help this person with his problem? Thanks John Sims From: Les Mathieson [mailto:mathlynn at bigpond.net.au] Sent: Friday, January 13, 2017 6:50 PM To: john at healey6.com Subject: BN4 - 100/6 front suspension Hi John, My name is Les Mathieson, from Paynesville in Australia, I own an 100/6, pictured. You have a great site, just wondering if you could give me some advice. My car has a ride height in the front, basically the right hand side of the body is about 50mm or 2 inches lower than the right hand side. We have checked most things and nothing was apparent. Therefore we suspected one of the Coil springs in the front are the issue. I have them out & we sent them to a pretty reputable spring maker for testing etc before we bought a new set. Unfortunately the tests showed they were both ok? We are waiting for them to be returned to re-assemble & look for other causes of the issue. Do you have any clues, insights or comments that might assist? Thanks Les Les Mathieson 4 Araluen Court (PO Box 142) Paynesville VIC 3880 0418106725 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0634.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 1445398 bytes Desc: not available URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat Jan 14 07:21:16 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2017 15:21:16 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] FW: BN4 - 100/6 front suspension References: <003001d26df7$b3795a30$1a6c0e90$@bigpond.net.au> <002901d26e5f$efb87f40$cf297dc0$@verizon.net> Either the frame is twisted or weak because of rust/cracks if there is a difference in ride height left/right in the front but not at the rear. However if the front springs are OK and there is the same difference in ride hight left/right both in front and rear, it is most likely a broken/tired/faulty rear leaf spring. Another possibility may be a stuck shock absorber but that would be very uncommon. Also check front upper and lower suspension parts for damage. Kees Oudesluijs Op 14-1-2017 om 13:15 schreef John Sims: > > Can one of you help this person with his problem? Thanks > > John Sims > > *From:*Les Mathieson [mailto:mathlynn at bigpond.net.au] > *Sent:* Friday, January 13, 2017 6:50 PM > *Subject:* BN4 - 100/6 front suspension > > Hi John, > > My name is Les Mathieson, from Paynesville in Australia, > > I own an 100/6, pictured. > > You have a great site, just wondering if you could give me some advice. > > My car has a ride height in the front, basically the right hand side > of the body is about 50mm or 2 inches lower than the right hand side. > > We have checked most things and nothing was apparent. > > Therefore we suspected one of the Coil springs in the front are the > issue. I have them out & we sent them to a pretty reputable spring > maker for testing etc before we bought a new set. > > Unfortunately the tests showed they were both ok? > > We are waiting for them to be returned to re-assemble & look for other > causes of the issue. > > Do you have any clues, insights or comments that might assist? > > Thanks > > Les > > Les Mathieson > > 4 Araluen Court > > (PO Box 142) > > Paynesville > > VIC 3880 > > 0418106725 > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Sat Jan 14 07:21:05 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2017 09:21:05 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] FW: BN4 - 100/6 front suspension References: <003001d26df7$b3795a30$1a6c0e90$@bigpond.net.au> <002901d26e5f$efb87f40$cf297dc0$@verizon.net> Jon & Les, Installed height of the springs the same? Were the front A arm inboard mounting bolts tightened with the car sitting flat on the ground (normal ride height)? How's the back of the car? It's not pitching the right front nose downward, right? Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 01/14/2017 07:15 AM, John Sims wrote: > Can one of you help this person with his problem? Thanks > > John Sims > > *From:*Les Mathieson [mailto:mathlynn at bigpond.net.au] > *Sent:* Friday, January 13, 2017 6:50 PM > *Subject:* BN4 - 100/6 front suspension > > Hi John, > > My name is Les Mathieson, from Paynesville in Australia, > > I own an 100/6, pictured. > > You have a great site, just wondering if you could give me some advice. > > My car has a ride height in the front, basically the right hand side of > the body is about 50mm or 2 inches lower than the right hand side. > > We have checked most things and nothing was apparent. > > Therefore we suspected one of the Coil springs in the front are the > issue. I have them out & we sent them to a pretty reputable spring maker > for testing etc before we bought a new set. > > Unfortunately the tests showed they were both ok? > > We are waiting for them to be returned to re-assemble & look for other > causes of the issue. > > Do you have any clues, insights or comments that might assist? > > Thanks > > Les > > Les Mathieson > > 4 Araluen Court > > (PO Box 142) > > Paynesville > > VIC 3880 > > 0418106725 > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From frogeye at porterscustom.com Sat Jan 14 07:46:31 2017 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2017 07:46:31 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] FW: BN4 - 100/6 front suspension References: <003001d26df7$b3795a30$1a6c0e90$@bigpond.net.au> <002901d26e5f$efb87f40$cf297dc0$@verizon.net> <4bbf12f8-ed31-c3ee-19cc-f3078c20d34e@chello.nl> ..in addition, a failure of the rear suspension will also manifest in the front ride height. Dave On 1/14/2017 7:21 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > Either the frame is twisted or weak because of rust/cracks if there is > a difference in ride height left/right in the front but not at the rear. > However if the front springs are OK and there is the same difference > in ride hight left/right both in front and rear, it is most likely a > broken/tired/faulty rear leaf spring. > Another possibility may be a stuck shock absorber but that would be > very uncommon. Also check front upper and lower suspension parts for > damage. > Kees Oudesluijs > > Op 14-1-2017 om 13:15 schreef John Sims: >> >> Can one of you help this person with his problem? Thanks >> >> John Sims >> >> *From:*Les Mathieson [mailto:mathlynn at bigpond.net.au] >> *Sent:* Friday, January 13, 2017 6:50 PM >> *Subject:* BN4 - 100/6 front suspension >> >> Hi John, >> >> My name is Les Mathieson, from Paynesville in Australia, >> >> I own an 100/6, pictured. >> >> You have a great site, just wondering if you could give me some advice. >> >> My car has a ride height in the front, basically the right hand side >> of the body is about 50mm or 2 inches lower than the right hand side. >> >> We have checked most things and nothing was apparent. >> >> Therefore we suspected one of the Coil springs in the front are the >> issue. I have them out & we sent them to a pretty reputable spring >> maker for testing etc before we bought a new set. >> >> Unfortunately the tests showed they were both ok? >> >> We are waiting for them to be returned to re-assemble & look for >> other causes of the issue. >> >> Do you have any clues, insights or comments that might assist? >> >> Thanks >> >> Les >> >> Les Mathieson >> >> 4 Araluen Court >> >> (PO Box 142) >> >> Paynesville >> >> VIC 3880 >> >> 0418106725 >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive:http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums:http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl >> > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com > -- Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.salter at gmail.com Sat Jan 14 08:21:20 2017 From: michael.salter at gmail.com (michael.salter at gmail.com) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2017 15:21:20 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] FW: BN4 - 100/6 front suspension References: <003001d26df7$b3795a30$1a6c0e90$@bigpond.net.au> <002901d26e5f$efb87f40$cf297dc0$@verizon.net> <587A33D1.8010407@earthlink.net> Hi Les, I may be "preaching to the converted " here but... In order to determine which spring(s) are at fault it is necessary to test the ride height of each end of the car in isolation to prevent a problem at one end affecting the other. To do this for the front, on a flat surface, jack the center of the diff (under the drain plug), remove the rear wheels then lower the rear to normal ride height. This produces a 3 point support. Bounce the front a couple of times to ensure that the front suspension units are operating correctly then measure the ride height both between the frame rails and the ground and the tops of the front fender arches and the ground. Repeat for the rear using a piece of pipe placed axially under the front cross member. In my experience it usually the rear springs that are at fault. Michael S BN1 #174 On Sat, Jan 14, 2017 at 10:03 AM -0500, "Bob Haskell" wrote: Jon & Les, Installed height of the springs the same? Were the front A arm inboard mounting bolts tightened with the car sitting flat on the ground (normal ride height)? How's the back of the car? It's not pitching the right front nose downward, right? Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 01/14/2017 07:15 AM, John Sims wrote: > Can one of you help this person with his problem? Thanks > > John Sims > > *From:*Les Mathieson [mailto:mathlynn at bigpond.net.au] > *Sent:* Friday, January 13, 2017 6:50 PM > *To:* john at healey6.com > *Subject:* BN4 - 100/6 front suspension > > Hi John, > > My name is Les Mathieson, from Paynesville in Australia, > > I own an 100/6, pictured. > > You have a great site, just wondering if you could give me some advice. > > My car has a ride height in the front, basically the right hand side of > the body is about 50mm or 2 inches lower than the right hand side. > > We have checked most things and nothing was apparent. > > Therefore we suspected one of the Coil springs in the front are the > issue. I have them out & we sent them to a pretty reputable spring maker > for testing etc before we bought a new set. > > Unfortunately the tests showed they were both ok? > > We are waiting for them to be returned to re-assemble & look for other > causes of the issue. > > Do you have any clues, insights or comments that might assist? > > Thanks > > Les > > Les Mathieson > > 4 Araluen Court > > (PO Box 142) > > Paynesville > > VIC 3880 > > 0418106725 > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Jan 14 09:12:47 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2017 08:12:47 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box References: <5c4d20a5-d2ec-b119-8b67-e3a3923683eb@comcast.net> <001501d26b8e$fc7f3990$f57dacb0$@hunterbane.com> <3bcd1b68-3f2d-077b-07a7-1501c1ea4f7d@comcast.net> <002201d26e53$3ad08250$b07186f0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> I recently got a shipment from Denis Welch Racing. I don't remember the shipping cost, but it was relatively trivial compared to the cost of the parts--around $100 IIRC--but the largest parts were a cam, an oil pump and a box of pistons. It was sent via UPS, who collected another $37 from me; probably for customs. One silly thing is that DWR had to send a small bottle of cam lube via the postal system--too scary for UPS I guess. The idea of a VAT gets kicked around sometimes in the 'States; if it was in lieu of some of the other taxes we pay--often disguised as 'fees'--it might be a good thing overall, but I'm sure our government would just add it to all the others. After all, our congressmen need large pensions and the best health insurance money can buy (both parties). Bob On 1/14/2017 2:44 AM, Simon Lachlan wrote: > > Hi, > > Try someone like this:- > > https://www.parcel2go.com/ > > ie make your own shipping arrangements via a courier of your own > choosing. I use people off this site quite often when I think I?m > about to be ripped off on P&P. > > I just got a quote for a spoof package: 500mmH X 300mmL X 200mmH at > 9kilo. Pick up UK, delivered USA, including ?Protection?(?). 4 days+ ETA. > > ?120:00 delivery to the US at a ?Take it or Leave it; we really don?t > give a stuff? rate is appalling. Unless it includes a huge amount of > import dues. But I imagine that those iniquities are handled > separately in the US, just like they are here? > > Simon > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *i erbs > *Sent:* 13 January 2017 19:27 > *To:* Neil Anderson > *Cc:* Healeys > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box > > I wanted to buy a luggage rack from England, They wanted 248 BPS for > the rack and 125 BPS to ship. I told them to find a cheaper way to > ship or I would not buy the rack. They told me too bad that was what > it cost to ship. Other suppliers have been willing to find a cheaper > way to ship when I asked... > > But no VAT applied :) > > > Ira Erbs > > Portland,OR > > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 7:27 AM, Neil Anderson > > Bob, > > FWIW, there would be no VAT on export orders from the UK, but shipping > is getting really expensive. > > Neil Anderson > > BT7 > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From derek.c.job at gmail.com Sat Jan 14 10:16:20 2017 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2017 17:16:20 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] FW: BN4 - 100/6 front suspension References: <003001d26df7$b3795a30$1a6c0e90$@bigpond.net.au> <002901d26e5f$efb87f40$cf297dc0$@verizon.net> <587A33D1.8010407@earthlink.net> <749F94B05E660FF2.6276f2d3-9cc3-4e82-a47b-d88915fc0dbc@mail.outlook.com> Looking at the photo it appears that the front suspension has been lowered. Is it the same on both sides. Are spacers being used? Derek On Sat, Jan 14, 2017 at 3:21 PM, wrote: > Hi Les, > I may be "preaching to the converted " here but... > In order to determine which spring(s) are at fault it is necessary to test > the ride height of each end of the car in isolation to prevent a problem at > one end affecting the other. > To do this for the front, on a flat surface, jack the center of the diff > (under the drain plug), remove the rear wheels then lower the rear to > normal ride height. This produces a 3 point support. > Bounce the front a couple of times to ensure that the front suspension > units are operating correctly then measure the ride height both between the > frame rails and the ground and the tops of the front fender arches and the > ground. > Repeat for the rear using a piece of pipe placed axially under the front > cross member. > In my experience it usually the rear springs that are at fault. > Michael S > BN1 #174 > > > > On Sat, Jan 14, 2017 at 10:03 AM -0500, "Bob Haskell" < > rchaskell at earthlink.net> wrote: > > Jon & Les, >> >> Installed height of the springs the same? >> >> Were the front A arm inboard mounting bolts tightened with the car >> sitting flat on the ground (normal ride height)? >> >> How's the back of the car? It's not pitching the right front nose >> downward, right? >> >> Cheers, >> >> Bob Haskell >> AHCA 3000 MkI registrarhttp://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php >> >> On 01/14/2017 07:15 AM, John Sims wrote: >> > Can one of you help this person with his problem? Thanks >> > >> > John Sims >> > >> > *From:*Les Mathieson [mailto:mathlynn at bigpond.net.au] >> > *Sent:* Friday, January 13, 2017 6:50 PM >> > *To:* john at healey6.com >> >> > *Subject:* BN4 - 100/6 front suspension >> > >> > Hi John, >> > >> > My name is Les Mathieson, from Paynesville in Australia, >> > >> > I own an 100/6, pictured. >> > >> > You have a great site, just wondering if you could give me some advice. >> > >> > My car has a ride height in the front, basically the right hand side of >> > the body is about 50mm or 2 inches lower than the right hand side. >> > >> > We have checked most things and nothing was apparent. >> > >> > Therefore we suspected one of the Coil springs in the front are the >> > issue. I have them out & we sent them to a pretty reputable spring maker >> > for testing etc before we bought a new set. >> > >> > Unfortunately the tests showed they were both ok? >> > >> > We are waiting for them to be returned to re-assemble & look for other >> > causes of the issue. >> > >> > Do you have any clues, insights or comments that might assist? >> > >> > Thanks >> > >> > Les >> > >> > Les Mathieson >> > >> > 4 Araluen Court >> > >> > (PO Box 142) >> > >> > Paynesville >> > >> > VIC 3880 >> > >> > 0418106725 >> > >> > >> > >> > _______________________________________________ >> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> > Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> > >> > Healeys at autox.team.net >> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> > >> > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net >> > >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >> >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sat Jan 14 10:25:54 2017 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2017 12:25:54 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] FW: BN4 - 100/6 front suspension References: <003001d26df7$b3795a30$1a6c0e90$@bigpond.net.au> <002901d26e5f$efb87f40$cf297dc0$@verizon.net> <587A33D1.8010407@earthlink.net> <749F94B05E660FF2.6276f2d3-9cc3-4e82-a47b-d88915fc0dbc@mail.outlook.com> Good point Derek, In my experience 100/6 front springs which, according to Moss, are the same as BN1/2 are inclined to ride low so it may be just that.. There is quite a bit more weight on the front of a 100/6 which could be an explanation. We used to find that a matched pair of used BJ8 springs were a great fit on the early 6 cyl cars... Michael S BN1 3174 On Sat, Jan 14, 2017 at 12:16 PM, Derek Job wrote: > Looking at the photo it appears that the front suspension has been > lowered. Is it the same on both sides. Are spacers being used? > > Derek > > On Sat, Jan 14, 2017 at 3:21 PM, wrote: > >> Hi Les, >> I may be "preaching to the converted " here but... >> In order to determine which spring(s) are at fault it is necessary to >> test the ride height of each end of the car in isolation to prevent a >> problem at one end affecting the other. >> To do this for the front, on a flat surface, jack the center of the diff >> (under the drain plug), remove the rear wheels then lower the rear to >> normal ride height. This produces a 3 point support. >> Bounce the front a couple of times to ensure that the front suspension >> units are operating correctly then measure the ride height both between the >> frame rails and the ground and the tops of the front fender arches and the >> ground. >> Repeat for the rear using a piece of pipe placed axially under the front >> cross member. >> In my experience it usually the rear springs that are at fault. >> Michael S >> BN1 #174 >> >> >> >> On Sat, Jan 14, 2017 at 10:03 AM -0500, "Bob Haskell" < >> rchaskell at earthlink.net> wrote: >> >> Jon & Les, >>> >>> Installed height of the springs the same? >>> >>> Were the front A arm inboard mounting bolts tightened with the car >>> sitting flat on the ground (normal ride height)? >>> >>> How's the back of the car? It's not pitching the right front nose >>> downward, right? >>> >>> Cheers, >>> >>> Bob Haskell >>> AHCA 3000 MkI registrarhttp://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php >>> >>> On 01/14/2017 07:15 AM, John Sims wrote: >>> > Can one of you help this person with his problem? Thanks >>> > >>> > John Sims >>> > >>> > *From:*Les Mathieson [mailto:mathlynn at bigpond.net.au] >>> > *Sent:* Friday, January 13, 2017 6:50 PM >>> > *To:* john at healey6.com >>> >>> > *Subject:* BN4 - 100/6 front suspension >>> > >>> > Hi John, >>> > >>> > My name is Les Mathieson, from Paynesville in Australia, >>> > >>> > I own an 100/6, pictured. >>> > >>> > You have a great site, just wondering if you could give me some advice. >>> > >>> > My car has a ride height in the front, basically the right hand side of >>> > the body is about 50mm or 2 inches lower than the right hand side. >>> > >>> > We have checked most things and nothing was apparent. >>> > >>> > Therefore we suspected one of the Coil springs in the front are the >>> > issue. I have them out & we sent them to a pretty reputable spring maker >>> > for testing etc before we bought a new set. >>> > >>> > Unfortunately the tests showed they were both ok? >>> > >>> > We are waiting for them to be returned to re-assemble & look for other >>> > causes of the issue. >>> > >>> > Do you have any clues, insights or comments that might assist? >>> > >>> > Thanks >>> > >>> > Les >>> > >>> > Les Mathieson >>> > >>> > 4 Araluen Court >>> > >>> > (PO Box 142) >>> > >>> > Paynesville >>> > >>> > VIC 3880 >>> > >>> > 0418106725 >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > _______________________________________________ >>> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> > Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> > >>> > Healeys at autox.team.net >>> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> > >>> > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net >>> > >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >>> >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com >> >> >> > -- *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat Jan 14 10:48:30 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2017 18:48:30 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box References: <5c4d20a5-d2ec-b119-8b67-e3a3923683eb@comcast.net> <001501d26b8e$fc7f3990$f57dacb0$@hunterbane.com> <3bcd1b68-3f2d-077b-07a7-1501c1ea4f7d@comcast.net> <002201d26e53$3ad08250$b07186f0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> <972bfe23-e458-7748-288b-f153a7602962@comcast.net> Sending 6 washers (up to 100g) from the Netherlands would be less than $5 unregistered. Up to 250g it would be around $7. Tax depending how you fill in the forms and/or the value of the washers. Kees Oudesluijs Op 14-1-2017 om 17:12 schreef Bob Spidell: > > I recently got a shipment from Denis Welch Racing. I don't remember > the shipping cost, but it was relatively trivial compared to the cost > of the parts--around $100 IIRC--but the largest parts were a cam, an > oil pump and a box of pistons. It was sent via UPS, who collected > another $37 from me; probably for customs. One silly thing is that > DWR had to send a small bottle of cam lube via the postal system--too > scary for UPS I guess. > > The idea of a VAT gets kicked around sometimes in the 'States; if it > was in lieu of some of the other taxes we pay--often disguised as > 'fees'--it might be a good thing overall, but I'm sure our government > would just add it to all the others. After all, our congressmen need > large pensions and the best health insurance money can buy (both > parties). > > Bob > > > On 1/14/2017 2:44 AM, Simon Lachlan wrote: >> >> Hi, >> >> Try someone like this:- >> >> https://www.parcel2go.com/ >> >> ie make your own shipping arrangements via a courier of your own >> choosing. I use people off this site quite often when I think I?m >> about to be ripped off on P&P. >> >> I just got a quote for a spoof package: 500mmH X 300mmL X 200mmH at >> 9kilo. Pick up UK, delivered USA, including ?Protection?(?). 4 days+ ETA. >> >> ?120:00 delivery to the US at a ?Take it or Leave it; we really don?t >> give a stuff? rate is appalling. Unless it includes a huge amount of >> import dues. But I imagine that those iniquities are handled >> separately in the US, just like they are here? >> >> Simon >> >> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of >> *i erbs >> *Sent:* 13 January 2017 19:27 >> *To:* Neil Anderson >> *Cc:* Healeys >> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Belleville washers in BN2 steering box >> >> I wanted to buy a luggage rack from England, They wanted 248 BPS for >> the rack and 125 BPS to ship. I told them to find a cheaper way to >> ship or I would not buy the rack. They told me too bad that was what >> it cost to ship. Other suppliers have been willing to find a cheaper >> way to ship when I asked... >> >> But no VAT applied :) >> >> >> Ira Erbs >> >> Portland,OR >> >> _______ _______ >> (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) >> (_________________________) >> >> BT7 engine and disk brakes >> >> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti >> >> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words >> >> On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 7:27 AM, Neil Anderson >> >> Bob, >> >> FWIW, there would be no VAT on export orders from the UK, but >> shipping is getting really expensive. >> >> Neil Anderson >> >> BT7 >> > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Sat Jan 14 11:13:37 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2017 13:13:37 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] FW: BN4 - 100/6 front suspension References: <003001d26df7$b3795a30$1a6c0e90$@bigpond.net.au> <002901d26e5f$efb87f40$cf297dc0$@verizon.net> <587A33D1.8010407@earthlink.net> <005601d26e74$b4acc950$1e065bf0$@bigpond.net.au> Les, By the installed height of the springs, I meant from upper spring perch to lower spring perch. Are the springs compressed the same amount? The front suspension a-arms - The a-arms go from the kingpin, spring perch to the frame. The metastatic bushings at the frame can bind and the a-arms won't move through their full range of travel. As you have the springs out, you can see how easy each side moves up and down. Do the lower arms move freely? Do the upper a-arms (shocks) move without any binding? Normally when assembling the front suspension folks don't tighten up the castellated nuts (and install the cotter pins) until the car is sitting on the ground with the engine in it. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 01/14/2017 09:44 AM, Les Mathieson wrote: > Hi Bob > > Thanks > > I won?t be able to get to the car until later this coming week. > > I assume you mean the height of the springs as mounted in the car say > from the ground? I will check. > > the difference in one wheel arch to the other is about 50mm, measuring > from ground or the wheel. > > When I measure the height of say the top of the headlights to ground I > get a similar discrepancy. > > From my memory the height of the chassis rails etc. seem to be ok. The > cross member seems to be also ok & horizontal. > > Were the front A arm inboard mounting bolts tightened with the car > sitting flat on the ground (normal ride height)? Where actually do you mean? > > How's the back of the car? It's not pitching the right front nose > downward, right? The back of the car seems ok. > > Cheers > > Les > > -----Original Message----- > From: Bob Haskell [mailto:rchaskell at earthlink.net] > Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2017 1:21 AM > To: John Sims; Healey List; mathlynn at bigpond.net.au > Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: BN4 - 100/6 front suspension > > Jon & Les, > > Installed height of the springs the same? > > Were the front A arm inboard mounting bolts tightened with the car > sitting flat on the ground (normal ride height)? > > How's the back of the car? It's not pitching the right front nose > downward, right? > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > > On 01/14/2017 07:15 AM, John Sims wrote: > > > Can one of you help this person with his problem? Thanks > > > > > > John Sims > > > > > > *From:*Les Mathieson [mailto:mathlynn at bigpond.net.au] > > > *Sent:* Friday, January 13, 2017 6:50 PM > > > > *Subject:* BN4 - 100/6 front suspension > > > > > > Hi John, > > > > > > My name is Les Mathieson, from Paynesville in Australia, > > > > > > I own an 100/6, pictured. > > > > > > You have a great site, just wondering if you could give me some advice. > > > > > > My car has a ride height in the front, basically the right hand side > > > of the body is about 50mm or 2 inches lower than the right hand side. > > > > > > We have checked most things and nothing was apparent. > > > > > > Therefore we suspected one of the Coil springs in the front are the > > > issue. I have them out & we sent them to a pretty reputable spring > > > maker for testing etc before we bought a new set. > > > > > > Unfortunately the tests showed they were both ok? > > > > > > We are waiting for them to be returned to re-assemble & look for other > > > causes of the issue. > > > > > > Do you have any clues, insights or comments that might assist? > > > > > > Thanks > > > > > > Les > > > > > > Les Mathieson > > > > > > 4 Araluen Court > > > > > > (PO Box 142) > > > > > > Paynesville > > > > > > VIC 3880 > > > > > > 0418106725 > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > > > donation $12.75 > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > > > > From austinhealeyslist at gmail.com Sat Jan 14 13:46:05 2017 From: austinhealeyslist at gmail.com (Austin Healeys List) Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2017 09:46:05 +1300 Subject: [Healeys] FW: BN4 - 100/6 front suspension References: <003001d26df7$b3795a30$1a6c0e90$@bigpond.net.au> <002901d26e5f$efb87f40$cf297dc0$@verizon.net> Same issue on my BN4, problem was a buildup of several things: one is measuring from the front guard lip is the wrong place to do it as the left side is up to an inch higher than the right due to manufacturing variances. Measure up to the chassis frame either side (stack of 4 by 2s works for this) and then measure up to a straight stick across the wing beadings rather than the guard lips. Secondly the rear spring will have sagged on the drivers side which has a big impact on the front height surprisingly. Even after having my rear springs reset and swapping side to side, the drivers side sagged back down within months. To compensate I added an extra leaf to the drivers side and that improve things a lot, however I'm stuck with the 'right front is too low' situation due to the shape of the arch, even though the chassis is level. Third is that the panhard rod is not always the right length and the rear axle can be off to one side. I ended up shortening mine by half an inch to bring the axle back to the centre of the car. Stand behind it and look at how much the spinner sticks out of each side. Although minor, this will make one side of the car slightly heavier than the other. And lastly, looking at the shape of the grille there has been some repair work done in the past by people who aren't familiar with how the front of a Healey should look. The panels may simply be in the wrong place which gives the illusion of being the wrong height, or worse the frame may be bent. If the chassis is level then you have some bodywork issues. Andy. On 1/15/17, John Sims wrote: > > > > > Can one of you help this person with his problem? Thanks > > John Sims > > > > From: Les Mathieson [mailto:mathlynn at bigpond.net.au] > Sent: Friday, January 13, 2017 6:50 PM > To: john at healey6.com > Subject: BN4 - 100/6 front suspension > > > > Hi John, > > My name is Les Mathieson, from Paynesville in Australia, > > I own an 100/6, pictured. > > You have a great site, just wondering if you could give me some advice. > > My car has a ride height in the front, basically the right hand side of the > body is about 50mm or 2 inches lower than the right hand side. > > We have checked most things and nothing was apparent. > > Therefore we suspected one of the Coil springs in the front are the issue. > I have them out & we sent them to a pretty reputable spring maker for > testing etc before we bought a new set. > > Unfortunately the tests showed they were both ok? > > We are waiting for them to be returned to re-assemble & look for other > causes of the issue. > > Do you have any clues, insights or comments that might assist? > > Thanks > > Les From jlyons4 at rochester.rr.com Sun Jan 15 15:11:28 2017 From: jlyons4 at rochester.rr.com (Jim Lyons) Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2017 17:11:28 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Grill Surround Sliver-Grey Paint ? Hello All, I just purchased a new grill surround for my BJ8. I?m looking for a recommendations for a supplier of the ?correct and concourse approved? SILVER-FLAT GREY paint to finish the inner lip of the grill. I searched the MOSS catalog but was unable to find the previously recommended flat silver paint used on the wire wheels. Thanks for your help. Jim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ahbn6 at verizon.net Sun Jan 15 16:04:25 2017 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2017 18:04:25 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Grill Surround Sliver-Grey Paint ? References: <126E1278553D4D09807CBFD9289CA6CA@LyonsAsusS550C> Try alsacorp.com John Sims Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Lyons Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2017 5:11 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Grill Surround Sliver-Grey Paint ? Hello All, I just purchased a new grill surround for my BJ8. I?m looking for a recommendations for a supplier of the ?correct and concourse approved? SILVER-FLAT GREY paint to finish the inner lip of the grill. I searched the MOSS catalog but was unable to find the previously recommended flat silver paint used on the wire wheels. Thanks for your help. Jim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dayton21 at comcast.net Sun Jan 15 16:16:45 2017 From: dayton21 at comcast.net (dayton21 at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2017 18:16:45 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Grill Surround Sliver-Grey Paint ? References: <126E1278553D4D09807CBFD9289CA6CA@LyonsAsusS550C> EASTWOOD sells the correct color Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Jim Lyons Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2017 5:24 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Grill Surround Sliver-Grey Paint ? Hello All, ? I just purchased a new grill surround for my BJ8. I?m looking for a recommendations for a supplier of the ?correct and concourse approved?? SILVER-FLAT GREY paint to finish the inner lip of the grill. I searched the MOSS catalog but was unable to find the previously recommended flat silver paint used on the wire wheels. ? Thanks for your help. Jim ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sun Jan 15 16:35:36 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2017 23:35:36 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Emergency Brake Handle References: <1581476182.3518757.1484523336672.ref@mail.yahoo.com> I am trying to take my BN2 emergency brake handle apart for chrome plating.? The only problem I am having is the push button on the end of the actuating rod.? I see a pin holding it in place and I am having a bit*h of a time driving the pin out.? Is the pin tapered?? Does it only drive out one way or could it just be corroded in place?? The button rocks back and forth so it is not stick where it passes through the actuating rod.? I am ready to just clamp it in the vice and just start whacking away with the hammer and punch.? Heat help?Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.salter at gmail.com Sun Jan 15 18:09:13 2017 From: michael.salter at gmail.com (michael.salter at gmail.com) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2017 01:09:13 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Emergency Brake Handle References: <1581476182.3518757.1484523336672.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1581476182.3518757.1484523336672@mail.yahoo.com> Mike that pin is pretty thin. Rather than marring the button I would think that you could grip the rod and tap on the underside of the button to shear the pin and get the knob off. Getting the sections of the shorn off pin should then be easy. Michael S BN1 #174 On Sun, Jan 15, 2017 at 8:03 PM -0500, "Michael MacLean" wrote: I am trying to take my BN2 emergency brake handle apart for chrome plating.? The only problem I am having is the push button on the end of the actuating rod.? I see a pin holding it in place and I am having a bit*h of a time driving the pin out.? Is the pin tapered?? Does it only drive out one way or could it just be corroded in place?? The button rocks back and forth so it is not stick where it passes through the actuating rod.? I am ready to just clamp it in the vice and just start whacking away with the hammer and punch.? Heat help?Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Sun Jan 15 18:22:41 2017 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2017 17:22:41 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Head Bolts References: <7BE630FC-F6C7-44CF-BE8A-FF8C966264C9@gmail.com> Break the nut loose from the stud. Chase all the threads on nut and stud. Put the stud back in finger tight. Then install nut and torque to 75 ft lbs. The factory manual says to torque the studs but the better practice is to install finger tight. On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 8:32 PM, R. Lindsay <050.rpl at gmail.com> wrote: > I have removed the left rear head bolt to replace the vacuum hose from the > dizzy to the carbs (don?t ask). When I unscrewed the nut/bolt, the entire > bolt came out ( the nut did not come loose). Now I need to put it all > back. Should I break the nut from the head bolt and put them back in > individually, or just put it back in as a single unit? Also, I believe the > torque on the bolt/nut is 70 foot pounds: can someone confirm this. > > Thank you so much!! > > Price Lindsay > 67 BJ8 > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Sun Jan 15 18:42:54 2017 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2017 01:42:54 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Grill Surround Sliver-Grey Paint ? References: <126E1278553D4D09807CBFD9289CA6CA@LyonsAsusS550C>, <000001d26f83$b7f4fa50$27deeef0$@verizon.net> I've tried 5 different paints and none of them "stick" to the chrome even with "etching" paint. I'm very interested in your answers.I gave up and learned to like the reflective chrome. Rich Kahn ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of John Sims Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2017 3:04 PM To: 'Jim Lyons'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Grill Surround Sliver-Grey Paint ? Try alsacorp.com John Sims Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Lyons Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2017 5:11 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Grill Surround Sliver-Grey Paint ? Hello All, I just purchased a new grill surround for my BJ8. I'm looking for a recommendations for a supplier of the "correct and concourse approved" SILVER-FLAT GREY paint to finish the inner lip of the grill. I searched the MOSS catalog but was unable to find the previously recommended flat silver paint used on the wire wheels. Thanks for your help. Jim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Sun Jan 15 18:47:59 2017 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2017 17:47:59 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] New steering worm gear I just purchased a new steering worm gear for my BT7. Any tips on removing the old gear and attaching the new one? I appears that the end of the shaft is swaged at the lower end of the gear. If I grind this swaged area out in order to remove the old gear, will I then have enough shaft left to swage it again with the new gear. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sun Jan 15 21:44:37 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2017 04:44:37 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Head Bolts References: <7BE630FC-F6C7-44CF-BE8A-FF8C966264C9@gmail.com> Always a good idea to coat the threads that go into the block with Gasgacinch in case one of the water jackets were cut into when they drilled the hole and cut the threads for the stud. Mike MacLean On Sunday, January 15, 2017 7:25 PM, richard mayor wrote: Break the nut loose from the stud. Chase all the threads on nut and stud.? Put the stud back in finger tight. Then install nut and torque to 75 ft lbs. The factory manual says to torque the studs but the better practice is to install finger tight. On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 8:32 PM, R. Lindsay <050.rpl at gmail.com> wrote: I have removed the left rear head bolt to replace the vacuum hose from the dizzy to the carbs (don?t ask).? When I unscrewed the nut/bolt, the entire bolt came out ( the nut did not come loose).? Now I need to put it all back.? Should I break the nut from the head bolt and put them back in individually, or just put it back in as a single unit?? Also, I believe the torque on the bolt/nut is 70 foot pounds: can someone confirm this. Thank you so much!! Price Lindsay67 BJ8 ______________________________ _________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/ listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Sun Jan 15 22:39:18 2017 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2017 05:39:18 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Grill Surround Sliver-Grey Paint ? References: <126E1278553D4D09807CBFD9289CA6CA@LyonsAsusS550C>, <000001d26f83$b7f4fa50$27deeef0$@verizon.net>, Jim, The Concours Guide, at least the one I have, indicates that the the paint should be a a light flat grey dull silver band of paint. I guess it gives you some latitude there. What I use is a Quartz Silver which is a Honda colour, code NH94M. I live in Canada and obtain same at Canadian Tire Stores. I prep the area to be painted first by masking all the rest of the grille surround, then I use a 3M red Scratch Pad to dull the chrome finish, wash it with metal prep and then apply a light coat of grey primer followed by two light coats of the Honda paint. There are a couple of grilles I have done about 5-6 years ago and the paint still stands. I also use the same colour on the back side of the bumpers and overriders. Jean ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Richard Kahn Sent: January 16, 2017 1:42 AM To: John Sims; 'Jim Lyons'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Grill Surround Sliver-Grey Paint ? I've tried 5 different paints and none of them "stick" to the chrome even with "etching" paint. I'm very interested in your answers.I gave up and learned to like the reflective chrome. Rich Kahn ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of John Sims Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2017 3:04 PM To: 'Jim Lyons'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Grill Surround Sliver-Grey Paint ? Try alsacorp.com John Sims Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Lyons Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2017 5:11 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Grill Surround Sliver-Grey Paint ? Hello All, I just purchased a new grill surround for my BJ8. I'm looking for a recommendations for a supplier of the "correct and concourse approved" SILVER-FLAT GREY paint to finish the inner lip of the grill. I searched the MOSS catalog but was unable to find the previously recommended flat silver paint used on the wire wheels. Thanks for your help. Jim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From DrBerkowitz at hotmail.com Mon Jan 16 06:31:27 2017 From: DrBerkowitz at hotmail.com (Leonard Berkowitz) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2017 13:31:27 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Insurance Any thoughts on insurance. I have quotes from JC Taylor and Haggerty . Any comments on either of these or any suggestions for alternatives. Currently insured with State Farm which is costing double what these two quoted. Len Berkowitz -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com Mon Jan 16 07:19:05 2017 From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2017 14:19:05 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Insurance References: I use Barrett-Jackson who is the broker for AIG; but I think the criteria is more than $100k insured value. I once used Leland West but they had so many restrictions that they virtually cancelled you if you drive the car. Many speak well of Hagerty but I did not find their quote as competitive as what I currently have. My rule of thumb is get new quotes every 3-5 years to avoid premium creep. I also do it on my house and daily drivers. Regards, Richard C Any thoughts on insurance. I have quotes from JC Taylor and Haggerty . Any comments on either of these or any suggestions for alternatives. Currently insured with State Farm which is costing double what these two quoted. Len Berkowitz _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Mon Jan 16 07:35:13 2017 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2017 09:35:13 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] New steering worm gear References: Hi Richard, Yes the cam is held onto the column by the end being "swaged" over ...This is how I get them off. [image: Inline image 1] There is steel plug on the end of the puller's forcing screw that is about 0.020" larger than the hole in the column. Looks like this when removed. The plug is still in place here. [image: Inline image 2] The triangular plate that the puller is pulling on (actually a home made mini flywheel puller) has a hole in it about 0.050" larger than the column itself. Once the new cam is installed I just put 3 small TIG welds to replace the swage. The swage is just to prevent someone pulling up on the steering wheel and sliding the cam off the column. Michael S On Sun, Jan 15, 2017 at 8:47 PM, richard mayor wrote: > I just purchased a new steering worm gear for my BT7. Any tips on > removing the old gear and attaching the new one? I appears that the end of > the shaft is swaged at the lower end of the gear. If I grind this swaged > area out in order to remove the old gear, will I then have enough shaft > left to swage it again with the new gear. > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > > -- *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2014553 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2348774 bytes Desc: not available URL: From airtightproductions at icloud.com Mon Jan 16 09:53:55 2017 From: airtightproductions at icloud.com (Steven Kingsbury) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2017 16:53:55 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [Healeys] Insurance I have Haggerty and have used them for years. Easy to work with, but then, I've never had a claim. But they really do help our community in a number of different ways and I'm more than satisfied. And yes, their rates a very competitive. Steven Kingsbury BN1 #598 On Jan 16, 2017, at 05:52 AM, Leonard Berkowitz wrote: Any thoughts on insurance. I have quotes from JC Taylor and Haggerty . Any comments on either of these or any suggestions for alternatives. Currently insured with State Farm which is costing double what these two quoted. Len Berkowitz _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys .msg-quote p {margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px;} -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From stephen.white at wku.edu Mon Jan 16 10:39:36 2017 From: stephen.white at wku.edu (White, Stephen) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2017 17:39:36 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Insurance References: <1fadc3e8-f760-403c-b91c-4b4f08593f09@me.com> may also want to check national corvette museum - doesn't have to be vette - they've given me the best deal i could find from an agency that would cover my small, but diverse collection. get to them through the museum website. Steve White 57 100/6 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Mon Jan 16 10:46:45 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2017 12:46:45 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Insurance References: <1fadc3e8-f760-403c-b91c-4b4f08593f09@me.com> I have had two cars insured with Hagerty for many years. During that time, I've filed a claim for each of them (one for towing and one for fire damage). I have been very pleased with their responsiveness and service. I also like their policy of encouraging use of the cars and not expecting them to remain covered in the garage except while being transported on a trailer to some event. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Steven Kingsbury Sent: Monday, January 16, 2017 11:54 AM To: Leonard Berkowitz Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Insurance I have Haggerty and have used them for years. Easy to work with, but then, I've never had a claim. But they really do help our community in a number of different ways and I'm more than satisfied. And yes, their rates a very competitive. Steven Kingsbury BN1 #598 On Jan 16, 2017, at 05:52 AM, Leonard Berkowitz wrote: Any thoughts on insurance. I have quotes from JC Taylor and Haggerty . Any comments on either of these or any suggestions for alternatives. Currently insured with State Farm which is costing double what these two quoted. Len Berkowitz -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyron at yahoo.com Mon Jan 16 10:55:45 2017 From: healeyron at yahoo.com (Ron Mitchell) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2017 17:55:45 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Insurance References: <1fadc3e8-f760-403c-b91c-4b4f08593f09@me.com> I've been with Hagerty for over twenty years. ?Have had two claims. ?Both times they told me to get a quote and then sent me a check for the quoted amount with a note that if there is additional expense they will cover it. ?One note of caution. ?Make sure the agreed amount you insure your car for will cover the replacement cost. ?I've heard of incidents where the agreed amount was less than the replacement value and Hagerty paid the agreed value. ?If you under insure your car to save a few dollars don't expect them to make up the difference. RPM1959 100-6 BN6!969 ?AN9? From: Steven Kingsbury To: Leonard Berkowitz Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" Sent: Monday, January 16, 2017 11:53 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Insurance I have Haggerty and have used them for years. Easy to work with, but then, I've never had a claim. But they really do help our community in a number of different ways and I'm more than satisfied. And yes, their rates a very competitive. Steven Kingsbury BN1 #598 On Jan 16, 2017, at 05:52 AM, Leonard Berkowitz wrote: Any thoughts on insurance. ?I have quotes from?JC Taylor and Haggerty . ?Any comments on either of these or any suggestions for alternatives. ?Currently insured with State Farm ?which is costing double what these two quoted. Len Berkowitz_______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys #yiv4501266447 .yiv4501266447msg-quote p {margin-top:0px;margin-bottom:0px;} _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Mon Jan 16 11:17:48 2017 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2017 18:17:48 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Insurance References: One of our club members developed a 14 inch long crack in their frame and and Hagerty paid a claim of over 10K (correct me on this, Dave Nock, if I have the amount wrong) with no questions asked. I've been with them 15 years but not needed them, fortunately. Rich Kahn ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Leonard Berkowitz Sent: Monday, January 16, 2017 5:31 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Insurance Any thoughts on insurance. I have quotes from JC Taylor and Haggerty . Any comments on either of these or any suggestions for alternatives. Currently insured with State Farm which is costing double what these two quoted. Len Berkowitz -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Mon Jan 16 12:01:16 2017 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2017 14:01:16 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Insurance References: <1fadc3e8-f760-403c-b91c-4b4f08593f09@me.com> <004a01d27020$81ada170$8508e450$@rr.com> I have insured with Hagerty--both Healey, race cars and box trailer--for years and my only direct experience with them was when a woman rear-ended the trailer. They were very liberal in their appraisal, giving me close to the stated value of the trailer and letting me keep it versus looking to total it out and salvage it. I was entirely satisfied with their service. A friend of mine has a Ferrari 246 Dino which he insures with Hagerty. A few years ago a wire going through the dash shorted, causing a major fire. I don't know whether he was offered the option of having the car totalled and receiving the agreed value but he opted to have it repaired and they paid over $100K with no hassles. Best--Michael Oritt On Mon, Jan 16, 2017 at 12:46 PM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > I have had two cars insured with Hagerty for many years. During that > time, I've filed a claim for each of them (one for towing and one for fire > damage). I have been very pleased with their responsiveness and service. > > I also like their policy of encouraging use of the cars and not expecting > them to remain covered in the garage except while being transported on a > trailer to some event. > > > > Steve Byers > > HBJ8L/36666 > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > Havelock, NC > > > > > > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Steven > Kingsbury > *Sent:* Monday, January 16, 2017 11:54 AM > *To:* Leonard Berkowitz > *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Insurance > > > > I have Haggerty and have used them for years. Easy to work with, but then, > I've never had a claim. But they really do help our community in a number > of different ways and I'm more than satisfied. And yes, their rates a very > competitive. > > Steven Kingsbury > > BN1 #598 > > > On Jan 16, 2017, at 05:52 AM, Leonard Berkowitz > wrote: > > Any thoughts on insurance. I have quotes from JC Taylor and Haggerty . > Any comments on either of these or any suggestions for alternatives. > Currently insured with State Farm which is costing double what these two > quoted. > > > > Len Berkowitz > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From lawrence.swift at gmail.com Mon Jan 16 12:07:23 2017 From: lawrence.swift at gmail.com (Lawrence Swift) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2017 14:07:23 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Insurance References: <1fadc3e8-f760-403c-b91c-4b4f08593f09@me.com> <004a01d27020$81ada170$8508e450$@rr.com> agreed. my recent claim was promptly addressed and the next premium did not increase. > On Jan 16, 2017, at 12:46 PM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > > I have had two cars insured with Hagerty for many years. During that time, I've filed a claim for each of them (one for towing and one for fire damage). I have been very pleased with their responsiveness and service. > I also like their policy of encouraging use of the cars and not expecting them to remain covered in the garage except while being transported on a trailer to some event. > > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > AHCA Delegate at Large > Havelock, NC > > > Sent: Monday, January 16, 2017 11:54 AM > To: Leonard Berkowitz > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Insurance > > I have Haggerty and have used them for years. Easy to work with, but then, I've never had a claim. But they really do help our community in a number of different ways and I'm more than satisfied. And yes, their rates a very competitive. > Steven Kingsbury > BN1 #598 > > >> Any thoughts on insurance. I have quotes from JC Taylor and Haggerty . Any comments on either of these or any suggestions for alternatives. Currently insured with State Farm which is costing double what these two quoted. >> >> >> >> Len Berkowitz >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From harborislander at aol.com Mon Jan 16 14:04:04 2017 From: harborislander at aol.com (MIKE LEWIS) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2017 16:04:04 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] insurance I have used Heacock for 5 years and been extremely pleased with their service and premium costs. Ford Heacock is a car guy for what that is worth but so is McKeel Hargerty. Heacock was less than Hagerty for same amount of coverage so switched. Had minor self inflicted front end damage ( don't ask) and after having a problem matching the reno red paint - 56 100M is reno red over black - Heacock agreed to paint all the red, not just front end and doors. Heacock even came to me before Hurricane Matthew and offered to pay 50% of the cost to move the Healey to safe ground as opposed to leaving in my garage at home which did have about a foot of storm surge. Didn't need to use and moved it to higher ground in town but was impressed that they were proactive. Mike Lewis Harbor Island, SC -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Jan 16 14:46:00 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2017 13:46:00 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Insurance References: <1fadc3e8-f760-403c-b91c-4b4f08593f09@me.com> Great with claims. They know what replacement parts cost and realistic hourly rates to fix. And as stated. They support Healey events. Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes Portland,OR On Jan 16, 2017 9:23 AM, "Steven Kingsbury" wrote: > I have Haggerty and have used them for years. Easy to work with, but then, > I've never had a claim. But they really do help our community in a number > of different ways and I'm more than satisfied. And yes, their rates a very > competitive. > Steven Kingsbury > BN1 #598 > > On Jan 16, 2017, at 05:52 AM, Leonard Berkowitz > wrote: > > Any thoughts on insurance. I have quotes from JC Taylor and Haggerty . > Any comments on either of these or any suggestions for alternatives. > Currently insured with State Farm which is costing double what these two > quoted. > > > Len Berkowitz > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > airtightproductions at icloud.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at gmail.com Mon Jan 16 16:05:03 2017 From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2017 15:05:03 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Insurance References: <1fadc3e8-f760-403c-b91c-4b4f08593f09@me.com> <004a01d27020$81ada170$8508e450$@rr.com> <6B12BADB-87AE-4910-BFEB-551A2FD1332D@gmail.com> We recently had a customer that had Hagerty. The car was a fresh restoration and he was hit in the right front hard. There was extensive damage to the right frame rail and the shock tower assy. Repairs were extensive and the just said fix it. David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 209 948 8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: Lawrence Swift Sent: Monday, January 16, 2017 11:07 AM To: BJ8Healeys Cc: Ahealey help Subject: Re: [Healeys] Insurance agreed. my recent claim was promptly addressed and the next premium did not increase. On Jan 16, 2017, at 12:46 PM, BJ8Healeys wrote: I have had two cars insured with Hagerty for many years. During that time, I've filed a claim for each of them (one for towing and one for fire damage). I have been very pleased with their responsiveness and service. I also like their policy of encouraging use of the cars and not expecting them to remain covered in the garage except while being transported on a trailer to some event. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Steven Kingsbury Sent: Monday, January 16, 2017 11:54 AM To: Leonard Berkowitz Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Insurance I have Haggerty and have used them for years. Easy to work with, but then, I've never had a claim. But they really do help our community in a number of different ways and I'm more than satisfied. And yes, their rates a very competitive. Steven Kingsbury BN1 #598 On Jan 16, 2017, at 05:52 AM, Leonard Berkowitz wrote: Any thoughts on insurance. I have quotes from JC Taylor and Haggerty . Any comments on either of these or any suggestions for alternatives. Currently insured with State Farm which is costing double what these two quoted. Len Berkowitz _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From goldengt at cal.net Mon Jan 16 17:13:42 2017 From: goldengt at cal.net (goldengt at cal.net) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2017 16:13:42 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] New steering worm gear References: I had a machine shop do the swap. I sure do like the new one. No more dead spot that may or may not be on center.Ken Freese65 BJ8 ----- Original Message ----- From: Michael Salter To: richard mayor Cc: healeys Sent: Mon, 16 Jan 2017 06:35:13 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: [Healeys] New steering worm gear Hi Richard, Yes the cam is held onto the column by the end being "swaged" over ...This is how I get them off. There is steel plug on the end of the puller's forcing screw that is about 0.020" larger than the hole in the column. Looks like this when removed. The plug is still in place here. The triangular plate that the puller is pulling on (actually a home made mini flywheel puller) has a hole in it about 0.050" larger than the column itself. Once the new cam is installed I just put 3 small TIG welds to replace the swage. The swage is just to prevent someone pulling up on the steering wheel and sliding the cam off the column. Michael S On Sun, Jan 15, 2017 at 8:47 PM, richard mayor wrote: I just purchased a new steering worm gear for my BT7. Any tips on removing the old gear and attaching the new one? I appears that the end of the shaft is swaged at the lower end of the gear. If I grind this swaged area out in order to remove the old gear, will I then have enough shaft left to swage it again with the new gear. _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -- If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Mon Jan 16 18:22:23 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2017 01:22:23 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Trunk Seal References: <953137948.4252852.1484616143707.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Is this the correct cross section for the 100 trunk seal.? Of course it is a Moss item I bought a few years ago.? Just getting around to addressing the trunk area.? Which side goes towards the inside of the trunk?? All the way around in one piece? Where is the cut ends end up?Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0662.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 148158 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Jan 16 19:55:58 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2017 18:55:58 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] New steering worm gear References: <165510787.261268.1484612022621.JavaMail.zimbra@cal.net> Who is selling these? On 1/16/2017 4:13 PM, goldengt at cal.net wrote: > I had a machine shop do the swap. I sure do like the new one. No more > dead spot that may or may not be on center. > Ken Freese > 65 BJ8 > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Mon Jan 16 20:29:27 2017 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock British Car Specialists) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2017 19:29:27 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] New steering worm gear References: <165510787.261268.1484612022621.JavaMail.zimbra@cal.net> We have them in stock David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com Please feel free to view an interview with the Nock's in 2009 Enjoy www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOTTRYkbQzs . . Sent from my iPad > On Jan 16, 2017, at 6:55 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > Who is selling these? > >> On 1/16/2017 4:13 PM, goldengt at cal.net wrote: >> I had a machine shop do the swap. I sure do like the new one. No more dead spot that may or may not be on center. >> Ken Freese >> 65 BJ8 > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Mon Jan 16 20:45:14 2017 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2017 19:45:14 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?insurance?= lady in car club did $23,000 damage to front end of healey. American Home something or other sold by Heacock classic insurance paid off immedietly with no hassle. From josef-eckert at t-online.de Tue Jan 17 02:45:23 2017 From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de) Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2017 10:45:23 +0100 (MET) Subject: [Healeys] Trunk Seal References: <953137948.4252852.1484616143707.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <953137948.4252852.1484616143707@mail.yahoo.com> Mike it is the correct seal for a 100 and the sharp edge goes to the outside. Where the cut ends up depends if it is a steel or aluminium boot lid. Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: [Healeys] Trunk Seal Datum: 2017-01-17T03:22:22+0100 Von: "Michael MacLean" An: "Healeys Help" Is this the correct cross section for the 100 trunk seal. Of course it is a Moss item I bought a few years ago. Just getting around to addressing the trunk area. Which side goes towards the inside of the trunk? All the way around in one piece? Where is the cut ends end up? Mike MacLean ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From warthodson at aol.com Tue Jan 17 12:39:24 2017 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2017 14:39:24 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Trunk Seal That is an interesting bit of trivia! I have an aluminum boot lid, but would like to know where the cut ends on both the alum & steel lids. Gary Hodson Where the cut ends up depends if it is a steel or aluminium boot lid. -----Original Message----- From: josef-eckert To: Michael MacLean ; Healeys, Forum Sent: Tue, Jan 17, 2017 12:56 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Trunk Seal Mike it is the correct seal for a 100 and the sharp edge goes to the outside. Where the cut ends up depends if it is a steel or aluminium boot lid. Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: [Healeys] Trunk Seal Datum: 2017-01-17T03:22:22+0100 Von: "Michael MacLean" An: "Healeys Help" Is this the correct cross section for the 100 trunk seal. Of course it is a Moss item I bought a few years ago. Just getting around to addressing the trunk area. Which side goes towards the inside of the trunk? All the way around in one piece? Where is the cut ends end up? Mike MacLean ? _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From josef-eckert at t-online.de Tue Jan 17 13:38:34 2017 From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de) Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2017 21:38:34 +0100 (MET) Subject: [Healeys] Trunk Seal References: <1484646323975.4448354.4d4a0b38f185b0ce0962406affc9f453a3cd9a37@spica.telekom.de> <159adf0eb2f-7088-9d1e@webstg-a04.mail.aol.com> Gary, As regards aluminium boot lid seals there are at least two strong opinions: One says there was no seal at all at the boot lid, but on the boot shroud opening. This might be only with very early 100s, but not confirmed. The other which I share (for cars built at least from early 1954), as my car was fitted with the seal on the aluminium boot lid when I bought it unrestored. On my car?s boot lid the seal starts and ends at the boot hinge support bracket on the left side of the boot lid. To my wisdom on the steel lids it was glued in in two pieces and the ends to meet at the middle of both sides. Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Trunk Seal Datum: 2017-01-17T20:39:31+0100 Von: "warthodson at aol.com" An: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" , "rrengineer.mike at att.net" , "Healeys at autox.team.net" That is an interesting bit of trivia! I have an aluminum boot lid, but would like to know where the cut ends on both the alum & steel lids. Gary Hodson Where the cut ends up depends if it is a steel or aluminium boot lid. -----Original Message----- From: josef-eckert To: Michael MacLean ; Healeys, Forum Sent: Tue, Jan 17, 2017 12:56 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Trunk Seal Mike it is the correct seal for a 100 and the sharp edge goes to the outside. Where the cut ends up depends if it is a steel or aluminium boot lid. Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: [Healeys] Trunk Seal Datum: 2017-01-17T03:22:22+0100 Von: "Michael MacLean" Is this the correct cross section for the 100 trunk seal. Of course it is a Moss item I bought a few years ago. Just getting around to addressing the trunk area. Which side goes towards the inside of the trunk? All the way around in one piece? Where is the cut ends end up? Mike MacLean _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.salter at gmail.com Tue Jan 17 16:03:19 2017 From: michael.salter at gmail.com (michael.salter at gmail.com) Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2017 23:03:19 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Trunk Seal References: <1484646323975.4448354.4d4a0b38f185b0ce0962406affc9f453a3cd9a37@spica.telekom.de> <159adf0eb2f-7088-9d1e@webstg-a04.mail.aol.com> <1484685514844.2015879.17dcdc6b95c0096078f58c5afe036bca0de4bc3e@spica.telekom.de> Although this does not apply to Mike's BN2 there is a 3rd opinion regarding seals on aluminium boot lids. http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/2015/06/03/low-mileage-austin-healey-100-a-rare-opportunity-to-look-back/ Michael S BN1 #174 On Tue, Jan 17, 2017 at 5:59 PM -0500, "josef-eckert at t-online.de" wrote: Gary, As regards aluminium boot lid seals there are at least two strong opinions: ? One says there was no seal at all at the boot lid, but on the boot shroud opening. This might be only with very early 100s, but not confirmed. ? The other which I share (for cars built at least from early 1954), as my car was fitted with the seal on the aluminium boot lid when I bought it unrestored. On my car?s boot lid the seal starts and ends at the boot hinge support bracket on the left side of the boot lid. ? To my wisdom on the steel lids it was glued in in two pieces and the ends to meet at the middle of both sides. ? Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany ? ? ? ? -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Trunk Seal Datum: 2017-01-17T20:39:31+0100 Von: "warthodson at aol.com" An: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" , "rrengineer.mike at att.net" , "Healeys at autox.team.net" ? ? ? That is an interesting bit of trivia! I have an aluminum boot lid, but would like to know where the cut ends on both the alum & steel lids. Gary Hodson Where the cut ends up depends if it is a steel or aluminium boot lid. ? ? ? -----Original Message----- From: josef-eckert To: Michael MacLean ; Healeys, Forum Sent: Tue, Jan 17, 2017 12:56 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Trunk Seal Mike it is the correct seal for a 100 and the sharp edge goes to the outside. Where the cut ends up depends if it is a steel or aluminium boot lid. ? Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany ? ? ? -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: [Healeys] Trunk Seal Datum: 2017-01-17T03:22:22+0100 Von: "Michael MacLean" An: "Healeys Help" ? ? ? Is this the correct cross section for the 100 trunk seal.? Of course it is a Moss item I bought a few years ago.? Just getting around to addressing the trunk area.? Which side goes towards the inside of the trunk?? All the way around in one piece? Where is the cut ends end up? Mike MacLean ? _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Thu Jan 19 09:48:08 2017 From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com) Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2017 11:48:08 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 50 Top Vintage Racing Photos of 2016 Here are the top 50 Vintage Racing Photos of 2016 compiled by Sports Car Digest. There are even some Austin-Healeys in these photos. Enjoy. http://www.sportscardigest.com/best-vintage-car-racing-photo-2016/ Steven Kingsbury BN1 #598 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ahbn6 at verizon.net Thu Jan 19 12:26:07 2017 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2017 14:26:07 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] My site I am just about finished with the correction of broken links on my site. Thanks to John New, he identified 54 such links. I need help in finding the following: 1. A link to the New Mexico Healey Road Runners Club 2. I get errors when I try to access the modifiedhealey.org web site. What happened to it? Searches come up with nothing. 3. I have to correct four more State registration listings and I should be finished! John Sims Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu Jan 19 14:54:21 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2017 13:54:21 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] My site References: <000301d27289$e288ae20$a79a0a60$@verizon.net> Thank you so much for your time and efforts to maintain this great site Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Thu, Jan 19, 2017 at 11:26 AM, John Sims wrote: > I am just about finished with the correction of broken links on my site. > Thanks to John New, he identified 54 such links. I need help in finding the > following: > > > > 1. A link to the New Mexico Healey Road Runners Club > > 2. I get errors when I try to access the modifiedhealey.org web site. > What happened to it? Searches come up with nothing. > > 3. I have to correct four more State registration listings and I should > be finished! > > > > > > John Sims > > Aberdeen, NJ > > > > www.healey6.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From wjc3 at citlink.net Thu Jan 19 16:20:50 2017 From: wjc3 at citlink.net (wjc3 at citlink.net) Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2017 23:20:50 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] My site References: <2039817563.65535.1484868050768.ref@mail.yahoo.com> -------------------------------------------- On Thu, 1/19/17, i erbs wrote: Subject: Re: [Healeys] My site To: "John Sims" Cc: "Healey List" Date: Thursday, January 19, 2017, 4:54 PM Thank you so much for your time and efforts to maintain this great site Ira Erbs Portland,OR ? ? ? _______? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? _______ ? ???(______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) ? ? ? ???(_________________________) ? ? ? ? ? BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Thu, Jan 19, 2017 at 11:26 AM, John Sims wrote: > I am just about finished with the correction of broken links on my site. > Thanks to John New, he identified 54 such links. I need help in finding the > following: > > > > 1.???A link to the New Mexico Healey Road Runners Club > > 2.???I get errors when I try to access the modifiedhealey.org web site. > What happened to it? Searches come up with nothing. > > 3.???I have to correct four more State registration listings and I should > be finished! > > > > > > John Sims > > Aberdeen, NJ > > > > www.healey6.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -----Inline Attachment Follows----- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/wjc3 at citlink.net From rick at ewilkins.com Thu Jan 19 17:14:41 2017 From: rick at ewilkins.com (Rick Wilkins) Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2017 16:14:41 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] My site References: <000301d27289$e288ae20$a79a0a60$@verizon.net> Here they are! http://modifiedhealeys.org/ On Jan 19, 2017, at 11:26 AM, John Sims wrote: > I am just about finished with the correction of broken links on my site. Thanks to John New, he identified 54 such links. I need help in finding the following: > > 1. A link to the New Mexico Healey Road Runners Club > 2. I get errors when I try to access the modifiedhealey.org web site. What happened to it? Searches come up with nothing. > 3. I have to correct four more State registration listings and I should be finished! > > > John Sims > Aberdeen, NJ > > www.healey6.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rick at ewilkins.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Thu Jan 19 17:45:18 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2017 19:45:18 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] My site References: <000301d27289$e288ae20$a79a0a60$@verizon.net> John, Was nasty boy Healey site modifiedhealeys.org? That site exists, but there's not much there and nothing Healey related. I'm guessing that it was replaced by: http://www.themorans.org/mhealeys/ Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 01/19/2017 02:26 PM, John Sims wrote: > I am just about finished with the correction of broken links on my site. > Thanks to John New, he identified 54 such links. I need help in finding > the following: > > 1.A link to the New Mexico Healey Road Runners Club > > 2.I get errors when I try to access the modifiedhealey.org web site. > What happened to it? Searches come up with nothing. > > 3.I have to correct four more State registration listings and I should > be finished! > > John Sims > > Aberdeen, NJ > > www.healey6.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From ah3000me at gmail.com Thu Jan 19 18:03:52 2017 From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom) Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2017 20:03:52 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] My site References: <000301d27289$e288ae20$a79a0a60$@verizon.net> John, I think ModifiedHealey.org is ModifiedHealeys.org (add an "s"). It also looks like the owner let the domain or hosting expire. According to the About us link: About US > > ABOUT US > > Welcome to Modifiedhealeys > Modifiedhealeys.org is leading Tech > blog which provides quality information in ICT related issues like Web > technology, Web trends, Software development,Telecommunication,Mobile > Technology, Technology trends, Industry > watch,reviews,analysis,interviews,news.It is an online resource center that > offers practical solutions to populace whether you know about technology or > not. > The Wayback Machine last snapshot the website in October 2016: https://web.archive.org/web/20161006002136/http://modifiedhealeys.org/ - Tom On Thu, Jan 19, 2017 at 2:26 PM, John Sims wrote: > I am just about finished with the correction of broken links on my site. > Thanks to John New, he identified 54 such links. I need help in finding the > following: > > > > 1. A link to the New Mexico Healey Road Runners Club > > 2. I get errors when I try to access the modifiedhealey.org web site. > What happened to it? Searches come up with nothing. > > 3. I have to correct four more State registration listings and I should > be finished! > > > > > > John Sims > > Aberdeen, NJ > > > > www.healey6.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/ah3000me at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Thu Jan 19 19:12:07 2017 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2017 21:12:07 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] My site References: <000301d27289$e288ae20$a79a0a60$@verizon.net> Hi John, Thanks for doing this. Here's the modified Healey site: http://www.themorans.org/mhealeys/ Nasty Healeying, Rick Neville On Thu, Jan 19, 2017 at 2:26 PM, John Sims wrote: > I am just about finished with the correction of broken links on my site. > Thanks to John New, he identified 54 such links. I need help in finding the > following: > > > > 1. A link to the New Mexico Healey Road Runners Club > > 2. I get errors when I try to access the modifiedhealey.org web site. > What happened to it? Searches come up with nothing. > > 3. I have to correct four more State registration listings and I should > be finished! > > > > > > John Sims > > Aberdeen, NJ > > > > www.healey6.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From goldengt at cal.net Fri Jan 20 15:11:09 2017 From: goldengt at cal.net (goldengt) Date: Fri, 20 Jan 2017 14:11:09 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Revs Institute photos At the Revs Institute digital photo gallery there are 84 pages of old AH racing and road test pictures from both sides of the pondI like the 57 Sebring streamliner overhead shot with the bonnet open? Ken Freese? Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kentmclean at comcast.net Fri Jan 20 15:54:07 2017 From: kentmclean at comcast.net (Kent McLean) Date: Fri, 20 Jan 2017 17:54:07 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Model 75 Sportsboat on BaT Up or auction on Bring-a-Trailer. "Over $50k was reportedly spent on refurbishment costs?? http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1959-austin-healey-model-75-sportsboat/ - Kent McLean ?56 100 BN2 From gablegerry at netscape.net Fri Jan 20 17:45:09 2017 From: gablegerry at netscape.net (gablegerry at netscape.net) Date: Fri, 20 Jan 2017 19:45:09 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] wire harness The car is a BN6 No. 2344. Moss list a change to the Wire harness somewhere around 3459. Cannot find an explanation of why the change. The harness that came of was PVC with black plastic wrapping which I thought was original. would like to be as close as possible to original. Thanks Gerry -----Original Message----- From: Michael Salter To: gablegerry Cc: healeys Sent: Fri, Jan 13, 2017 1:49 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] wire harness Depends upon what you are trying to achieve. If you want to end up with a driver (20 foot) car that Aunt Mary describes as "cute" then whatever works will be just fine. If you are looking to end up with something that someone with some knowledge of classic car restoration will appreciate then replace the harness with one that closely replicates the original. You don't mention what model of Healey you are working on but originally it would have had cloth covered wire with a cloth covering on the harness (Pre Oct 58) or PVC insulated wires with a cloth harness outer cover after tht date. Michael S Concours Guidelines Committee On Thu, Jan 12, 2017 at 9:23 PM, wrote: Looking for an point of view. should one replace the wire harness that is braided or try to follow the original that appears to be PVC and banded together with black rap. The original is not that bad but again not that good. thanks can some who is on the MGT list know how to get on it? _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -- If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Fri Jan 20 21:07:05 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sat, 21 Jan 2017 04:07:05 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Revs Institute photos References: Ken,???? Thanks for that.? I was very interested in the Sprite Sebring pictures and the Bugeye road test pictures with John Bolton.? Also the Bugeye engine shots with the Shorrock supercharger.? Some real nice period stuff.Mike MacLean On Friday, January 20, 2017 3:15 PM, goldengt wrote: At the Revs Institute digital photo gallery there are 84 pages of old AH racing and road test pictures from both sides of the pondI like the 57 Sebring streamliner overhead shot with the bonnet open? Ken Freese? Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Sat Jan 21 05:58:19 2017 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Sat, 21 Jan 2017 07:58:19 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Revs Institute photos References: Great resource, Ken. Here's the link:https://revsinstitute.org/ And if you're ever in the Naples, FL area I highly recommend a visit to the Institute/Collier Collection. It's a great museum with a number of Briggs Cunnigham's cars. Another nice photo collection is Nigel Smuckatelli's: https://www.flickr.com/photos/smuckatelli/ Happy Healeying, Rick Neville On Fri, Jan 20, 2017 at 5:11 PM, goldengt wrote: > At the Revs Institute digital photo gallery there are 84 pages of old AH > racing and road test pictures from both sides of the pond > I like the 57 Sebring streamliner overhead shot with the bonnet open > > Ken Freese > > > > Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From josef-eckert at t-online.de Sat Jan 21 06:58:04 2017 From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de) Date: Sat, 21 Jan 2017 14:58:04 +0100 (MET) Subject: [Healeys] wire harness References: <159be7becf4-2c27-3d4c@webstg-m05.mail.aol.com> Black plastic wrapping isn?t original. It should be a cotton braided loom. Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: Re: [Healeys] wire harness Datum: 2017-01-21T02:30:40+0100 Von: "gablegerry at netscape.net" An: "michaelsalter at gmail.com" The car is a BN6 No. 2344. Moss list a change to the Wire harness somewhere around 3459. Cannot find an explanation of why the change. The harness that came of was PVC with black plastic wrapping which I thought was original. would like to be as close as possible to original. Thanks Gerry -----Original Message----- From: Michael Salter To: gablegerry Cc: healeys Sent: Fri, Jan 13, 2017 1:49 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] wire harness Depends upon what you are trying to achieve. If you want to end up with a driver (20 foot) car that Aunt Mary describes as "cute" then whatever works will be just fine. If you are looking to end up with something that someone with some knowledge of classic car restoration will appreciate then replace the harness with one that closely replicates the original. You don't mention what model of Healey you are working on but originally it would have had cloth covered wire with a cloth covering on the harness (Pre Oct 58) or PVC insulated wires with a cloth harness outer cover after tht date. Michael S Concours Guidelines Committee On Thu, Jan 12, 2017 at 9:23 PM, Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com -- If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem. ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From lawrence.swift at gmail.com Sat Jan 21 07:48:07 2017 From: lawrence.swift at gmail.com (Lawrence Swift) Date: Sat, 21 Jan 2017 09:48:07 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] wire harness References: <159be7becf4-2c27-3d4c@webstg-m05.mail.aol.com> <1485007084643.2357320.2c18d682484df0473997b62ed65770e4507e3002@spica.telekom.de> check Rhode Island Wire > On Jan 21, 2017, at 8:58 AM, josef-eckert at t-online.de wrote: > > Black plastic wrapping isn?t original. It should be a cotton braided loom. > > Josef Eckert > K?nigswinter/Germany > > > > -----Original-Nachricht----- > Betreff: Re: [Healeys] wire harness > Datum: 2017-01-21T02:30:40+0100 > Von: "gablegerry at netscape.net" > An: "michaelsalter at gmail.com" > > > > The car is a BN6 No. 2344. Moss list a change to the Wire harness somewhere around 3459. Cannot find an explanation of why the change. The harness that came of was PVC with black plastic wrapping which I thought was original. would like to be as close as possible to original. > Thanks > Gerry > -----Original Message----- > From: Michael Salter > To: gablegerry > Cc: healeys > Sent: Fri, Jan 13, 2017 1:49 pm > Subject: Re: [Healeys] wire harness > > Depends upon what you are trying to achieve. > If you want to end up with a driver (20 foot) car that Aunt Mary describes as "cute" then whatever works will be just fine. > If you are looking to end up with something that someone with some knowledge of classic car restoration will appreciate then replace the harness with one that closely replicates the original. > You don't mention what model of Healey you are working on but originally it would have had cloth covered wire with a cloth covering on the harness (Pre Oct 58) or PVC insulated wires with a cloth harness outer cover after tht date. > Michael S > Concours Guidelines Committee > > > > Looking for an point of view. should one replace the wire harness that is braided or try to follow the original that appears to be PVC and banded together with black rap. The original is not that bad but again not that good. > thanks > can some who is on the MGT list know how to get on it? > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > > -- > If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem. > > > > > ? > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jstmorris at yahoo.com Sat Jan 21 08:17:45 2017 From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris) Date: Sat, 21 Jan 2017 15:17:45 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Revs Institute photos References: Good Day Ken.? As I have mentioned before, this is a fantastic photo resource.? Back in Nov 2015 there were 742 photos of AustinHealey.? Now there are ?838 photos.?Photos are constantly being added. ?You may also wish to search for just ?Healey?.? You can also search for other words like ?BMC?and ?BMC Competition Department?.? The Marcus Chambers Photograph Collection isfantastic.? Attached are two files thatmay be of interest.?--Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives On Friday, January 20, 2017 6:15 PM, goldengt wrote: At the Revs Institute digital photo gallery there are 84 pages of old AH racing and road test pictures from both sides of the pondI like the 57 Sebring streamliner overhead shot with the bonnet open? Ken Freese? Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Revs Digital Library at Stanford Univ Libraries.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 384904 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: marcus chambers RevsLib collection 243.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 1830204 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Sat Jan 21 09:53:59 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Sat, 21 Jan 2017 11:53:59 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] wire harness References: <159be7becf4-2c27-3d4c@webstg-m05.mail.aol.com> British Wiring reps Auto Sparks from the UK. http://www.britishwiring.com/category-s/86.htm Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 01/20/2017 07:45 PM, gablegerry at netscape.net wrote: > The car is a BN6 No. 2344. Moss list a change to the Wire harness > somewhere around 3459. Cannot find an explanation of why the change. > The harness that came of was PVC with black plastic wrapping which I > thought was original. would like to be as close as possible to original. > Thanks > Gerry > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Michael Salter > To: gablegerry > Cc: healeys > Sent: Fri, Jan 13, 2017 1:49 pm > Subject: Re: [Healeys] wire harness > > Depends upon what you are trying to achieve. > If you want to end up with a driver (20 foot) car that Aunt Mary > describes as "cute" then whatever works will be just fine. > If you are looking to end up with something that someone with some > knowledge of classic car restoration will appreciate then replace the > harness with one that closely replicates the original. > You don't mention what model of Healey you are working on but originally > it would have had cloth covered wire with a cloth covering on the > harness (Pre Oct 58) or PVC insulated wires with a cloth harness outer > cover after tht date. > Michael S > Concours Guidelines Committee > > > On Thu, Jan 12, 2017 at 9:23 PM, > > Looking for an point of view. should one replace the wire > harness that is braided or try to follow the original that appears > to be PVC and banded together with black rap. The original is not > that bad but again not that good. > thanks > can some who is on the MGT list know how to get on it? > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > > > > > -- > /If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem./ > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From goldengt at cal.net Sat Jan 21 10:33:09 2017 From: goldengt at cal.net (goldengt) Date: Sat, 21 Jan 2017 09:33:09 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Revs Institute photos I will be there next month.?Ken? Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------- Original message --------From: HealeyRick Date: 1/21/17 4:58 AM (GMT-08:00) To: goldengt Cc: Austin Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Revs Institute photos Great resource, Ken. Here's the link:https://revsinstitute.org/ ?And if you're ever in the Naples, FL area I highly recommend a visit to the Institute/Collier Collection.? It's a great museum with a number of Briggs Cunnigham's cars.? Another nice photo collection is Nigel Smuckatelli's: ?https://www.flickr.com/photos/smuckatelli/ Happy Healeying,Rick Neville On Fri, Jan 20, 2017 at 5:11 PM, goldengt wrote: At the Revs Institute digital photo gallery there are 84 pages of old AH racing and road test pictures from both sides of the pondI like the 57 Sebring streamliner overhead shot with the bonnet open? Ken Freese? Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From andersonfoot at msn.com Sat Jan 21 16:12:25 2017 From: andersonfoot at msn.com (Charles Anderson) Date: Sat, 21 Jan 2017 23:12:25 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Boat Could you post this? I'm trying to help my dad sell his Healey boat. Thanks, Chuck Anderson Healey Sportsboat seen for sale on Bring a Trailer http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1959-austin-healey-model-75-sportsboat/ [http://13252-presscdn-0-94.pagely.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/Screen-Shot-2017-01-18-at-9.38.12-AM.png] 1959 Healey Model 75 Sports Boat bringatrailer.com This 1959 Healey Model 75 "Sports Boat" is a 16-foot fiberglass model with a wood deck and rebuilt 1,500cc inboard motor. Said to be one of 8 in the USA, it was purchased by the seller in 2000 in England and treated to a refurbishment before being shipped here in 2009. Its sale includes an -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dwflagg at juno.com Sun Jan 22 07:40:38 2017 From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com) Date: Sun, 22 Jan 2017 14:40:38 GMT Subject: [Healeys] Keith Taylor Keith, I believe you have been hacked. ____________________________________________________________ Affordable Wireless Plans Set up is easy. Get online in minutes. Starting at only $14.95 per month! www.netzero.net?refcd=nzmem0216 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Jan 22 10:39:09 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 22 Jan 2017 09:39:09 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] OT (no Healey content) I suspect Healey drivers are 'aware of the inherent dangers of driving': http://jalopnik.com/theres-actually-a-name-for-a-steering-wheel-with-a-big-1791445206 From dwflagg at juno.com Sun Jan 22 19:42:49 2017 From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com) Date: Mon, 23 Jan 2017 02:42:49 GMT Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 Tach Would anyone have a nice 100/4 tach case for sale or trade? Please contact off the list. Thanks. Cheers, Doug ____________________________________________________________ Megyn Kelly Already Has Nbc Furious - You Won't Believe Why theright-side.com http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/58856dc14a2fb6dc13956st52duc -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From josef-eckert at t-online.de Mon Jan 23 09:27:49 2017 From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de) Date: Mon, 23 Jan 2017 17:27:49 +0100 (MET) Subject: [Healeys] More than 3000 Factory 100Ms Just heart there is an alternative fact that there are more than 3000 Factory 100Ms still exist.[cool] Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: smiley-cool.gif Type: image/gif Size: 354 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Mon Jan 23 09:40:55 2017 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Mon, 23 Jan 2017 11:40:55 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] More than 3000 Factory 100Ms References: <1485188869759.5386833.cfec1d106167a7bcbf1258b1c02f69435f742ea4@spica.telekom.de> Thea sounds like false news to me....at my last count there were only 2761 .....Mind you that number is increasing rapidly :-) Michael S BN1 #174 On Mon, Jan 23, 2017 at 11:27 AM, josef-eckert at t-online.de < josef-eckert at t-online.de> wrote: > Just heart there is an alternative fact that there are more than 3000 > Factory 100Ms still exist.[image: cool] > > > > Josef Eckert > > K?nigswinter/Germany > ? > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > > -- *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: smiley-cool.gif Type: image/gif Size: 354 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ah100register at gmail.com Mon Jan 23 09:48:39 2017 From: ah100register at gmail.com (John Harper) Date: Mon, 23 Jan 2017 16:48:39 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] More than 3000 Factory 100Ms References: <1485188869759.5386833.cfec1d106167a7bcbf1258b1c02f69435f742ea4@spica.telekom.de> What a load of rubbish! There might be a large number of conversions but not originals. Conversions should be call Le Mans. John Harper AHC UK 100 Register Secretary On 23 January 2017 at 16:27, josef-eckert at t-online.de < josef-eckert at t-online.de> wrote: > Just heart there is an alternative fact that there are more than 3000 > Factory 100Ms still exist.[image: cool] > > > > Josef Eckert > > K?nigswinter/Germany > ? > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com > > > -- Best wishes John Harper AHC UK 100 Register Secretary -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: smiley-cool.gif Type: image/gif Size: 354 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Mon Jan 23 10:14:11 2017 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Mon, 23 Jan 2017 12:14:11 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] SU carb reamer needed I have H6 carbs on my 100 Le Mans and the 5/16" throttle shafts are loose. I would like to go ream out the bodies and go to the oversized .320" throttle shafts. Moss wants $270.00 for the reaming tool and I do not anticipate I will need to do this job again during my lifetime. Does anyone have one of these they would be willing to loan or rent? Best--Michael Oritt -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.salter at gmail.com Mon Jan 23 10:59:50 2017 From: michael.salter at gmail.com (michael.salter at gmail.com) Date: Mon, 23 Jan 2017 17:59:50 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] More than 3000 Factory 100Ms References: <1485188869759.5386833.cfec1d106167a7bcbf1258b1c02f69435f742ea4@spica.telekom.de> Quite true John and, fortunately, regarding "M" s there are are a good number of people around with the knowledge to correctly? identify an original. Michael S BN1 #174 On Mon, Jan 23, 2017 at 12:46 PM -0500, "John Harper" wrote: What a load of rubbish! There might be a large number of conversions but not originals. Conversions should be call Le Mans.? John Harper AHC UK 100 Register Secretary On 23 January 2017 at 16:27, josef-eckert at t-online.de wrote: Just heart there is an alternative fact that there are more than 3000 Factory 100Ms still exist. ? Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany? _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -- Best wishes John Harper AHC UK 100 Register Secretary -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: smiley-cool.gif Type: image/gif Size: 354 bytes Desc: not available URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Jan 23 11:37:24 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Mon, 23 Jan 2017 10:37:24 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] More than 3000 Factory 100Ms References: <1485188869759.5386833.cfec1d106167a7bcbf1258b1c02f69435f742ea4@spica.telekom.de> He was calling attention to the Trump speak "Just heart there is an alternative fact" an alternative fact is Trumps way of saying he lied without admitting it. I think this is political satire form a Teutonic view Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Mon, Jan 23, 2017 at 8:48 AM, John Harper wrote: > What a load of rubbish! There might be a large number of conversions but > not originals. Conversions should be call Le Mans. > > John Harper > > AHC UK 100 Register Secretary > > On 23 January 2017 at 16:27, josef-eckert at t-online.de < > josef-eckert at t-online.de> wrote: > >> Just heart there is an alternative fact that there are more than 3000 >> Factory 100Ms still exist.[image: cool] >> >> >> >> Josef Eckert >> >> K?nigswinter/Germany >> ? >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com >> >> >> > > > -- > Best wishes > > John Harper > > AHC UK 100 Register Secretary > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: smiley-cool.gif Type: image/gif Size: 354 bytes Desc: not available URL: From warthodson at aol.com Mon Jan 23 11:46:23 2017 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Mon, 23 Jan 2017 13:46:23 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] More than 3000 Factory 100Ms I know for a fact that my BN1 is a 100M. Please add it to your list. Anyone who says differently is a liar. Thanks, Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Michael Salter To: josef-eckert Cc: Healeys, Forum Sent: Mon, Jan 23, 2017 11:24 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] More than 3000 Factory 100Ms Thea sounds like false news to me....at my last count there were only 2761 .....Mind you that number is increasing rapidly :-) Michael S BN1 #174 On Mon, Jan 23, 2017 at 11:27 AM, josef-eckert at t-online.de wrote: Just heart there is an alternative fact that there are more than 3000 Factory 100Ms still exist. Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany ? _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -- If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem. _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: smiley-cool.gif Type: image/gif Size: 354 bytes Desc: not available URL: From josef-eckert at t-online.de Mon Jan 23 11:50:18 2017 From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de) Date: Mon, 23 Jan 2017 19:50:18 +0100 (MET) Subject: [Healeys] More than 3000 Factory 100Ms References: <159cca68883-7668-b514@webstg-m07.mail.aol.com> Is that true or alternative true? Now I am puzzled. Josef Eckert K?nigswinter Germany -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: Re: [Healeys] More than 3000 Factory 100Ms Datum: 2017-01-23T19:46:34+0100 Von: "warthodson at aol.com" An: "michaelsalter at gmail.com" , "josef-eckert at t-online.de" I know for a fact that my BN1 is a 100M. Please add it to your list. Anyone who says differently is a liar. Thanks, Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Michael Salter To: josef-eckert Cc: Healeys, Forum Sent: Mon, Jan 23, 2017 11:24 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] More than 3000 Factory 100Ms Thea sounds like false news to me....at my last count there were only 2761 .....Mind you that number is increasing rapidly :-) Michael S BN1 #174 On Mon, Jan 23, 2017 at 11:27 AM, josef-eckert at t-online.de Just heart there is an alternative fact that there are more than 3000 Factory 100Ms still exist.[cool] Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com -- If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem. _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: smiley-cool.gif Type: image/gif Size: 354 bytes Desc: not available URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Mon Jan 23 11:57:06 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Mon, 23 Jan 2017 13:57:06 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] More than 3000 Factory 100Ms References: <1485188869759.5386833.cfec1d106167a7bcbf1258b1c02f69435f742ea4@spica.telekom.de> John, I think Josef's point was that (similar to one of Mr. Trump's "alternative facts"), 3000 M's are being claimed whereas we all know only 640 were originally built. That's like the 99% of all BJ8s in existence being "1967s" no matter what year they were built. winking0001.gif Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Harper Sent: Monday, January 23, 2017 11:49 AM To: josef-eckert at t-online.de Cc: Healeys, Forum Subject: Re: [Healeys] More than 3000 Factory 100Ms What a load of rubbish! There might be a large number of conversions but not originals. Conversions should be call Le Mans. John Harper AHC UK 100 Register Secretary On 23 January 2017 at 16:27, josef-eckert at t-online.de wrote: Just heart there is an alternative fact that there are more than 3000 Factory 100Ms still exist.cool Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany ? -- Best wishes John Harper AHC UK 100 Register Secretary _____ No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2016.0.7996 / Virus Database: 4749/13781 - Release Date: 01/16/17 Internal Virus Database is out of date. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.gif Type: image/gif Size: 696 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.gif Type: image/gif Size: 354 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Jan 23 12:02:08 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 23 Jan 2017 11:02:08 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] SU carb reamer needed References: I don't have a reamer, but many moons ago I sent HD8 carb bodies to Apple Hydraulics for installation of new bushes--std. size IIRC--and throttle shafts (I think the bushes were undersize then reamed, but not sure). Was happy with result, service and turnaround time (NFI--but if Apple wants to give me a kickback I'll take it). Don't know if WW Auto (Peter Caldwell) does this, but they'd be a good bet if they do, too. If you go oversize, will the shafts still fit the other hardware (linkages, etc.)? bs On 1/23/2017 9:14 AM, Michael Oritt wrote: > I have H6 carbs on my 100 Le Mans and the 5/16" throttle shafts are > loose. I would like to go ream out the bodies and go to the oversized > .320" throttle shafts. Moss wants $270.00 for the reaming tool and I > do not anticipate I will need to do this job again during my > lifetime. Does anyone have one of these they would be willing to loan > or rent? > > Best--Michael Oritt > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From austinhealeyslist at gmail.com Mon Jan 23 13:02:09 2017 From: austinhealeyslist at gmail.com (Austin Healeys List) Date: Tue, 24 Jan 2017 09:02:09 +1300 Subject: [Healeys] SU carb reamer needed References: Valve guide reamers are pretty cheap http://www.ebay.com/itm/152401791266 You can usually pull them backwards through the carb and use the handle as a pilot so the holes are aligned. All the linkages have to be reamed out too. Alternatively you can drill out the old brass bushings and install ptfe lined DU bushings per the SU/Burlen recommended overhaul procedure and use stock shaft size. A 3/8 reamer with the handle turned down to 5/16 is perfect for installing these bushings. Andy. On 1/24/17, Michael Oritt wrote: > I have H6 carbs on my 100 Le Mans and the 5/16" throttle shafts are loose. > I would like to go ream out the bodies and go to the oversized .320" > throttle shafts. Moss wants $270.00 for the reaming tool and I do not > anticipate I will need to do this job again during my lifetime. Does > anyone have one of these they would be willing to loan or rent? > > Best--Michael Oritt > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: DSC09277.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 92643 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeydoc at gmail.com Mon Jan 23 13:11:26 2017 From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock) Date: Mon, 23 Jan 2017 12:11:26 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] SU carb reamer needed References: Why not contact Joe Curto you cant be more than a couple of hours from him. David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 209 948 8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: Michael Oritt Sent: Monday, January 23, 2017 9:14 AM To: Austin Healey Subject: [Healeys] SU carb reamer needed I have H6 carbs on my 100 Le Mans and the 5/16" throttle shafts are loose. I would like to go ream out the bodies and go to the oversized .320" throttle shafts. Moss wants $270.00 for the reaming tool and I do not anticipate I will need to do this job again during my lifetime. Does anyone have one of these they would be willing to loan or rent? Best--Michael Oritt -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Mon Jan 23 16:15:04 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Mon, 23 Jan 2017 23:15:04 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] SU carb reamer needed References: Might be a better idea to send out the bodies to someone like Joe Curto and have them reamed and re-bushed for a standard shaft.? Mike MacLean On Monday, January 23, 2017 11:06 AM, Michael Oritt wrote: I have H6 carbs on my 100 Le Mans and the 5/16" throttle shafts are loose.? I would like to go ream out the bodies and go to the oversized .320" throttle shafts.? Moss wants $270.00 for the reaming tool and I do not anticipate I will need to do this job again during my lifetime.? Does anyone have one of these they would be willing to loan or rent? Best--Michael Oritt ? _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From stmiller96 at hotmail.com Mon Jan 23 16:44:09 2017 From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller) Date: Mon, 23 Jan 2017 23:44:09 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Mike Oritt- needing carb reaming tool References: Mike I have one you can borrow. Contact me at stmiller96 at hotmail.com Shawn The Millers "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From derek.c.job at gmail.com Tue Jan 24 00:30:30 2017 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Tue, 24 Jan 2017 07:30:30 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] More than 3000 Factory 100Ms References: <1485188869759.5386833.cfec1d106167a7bcbf1258b1c02f69435f742ea4@spica.telekom.de> <030001d275aa$7e5adda0$7b1098e0$@rr.com> Keep politics out of the list. On Mon, Jan 23, 2017 at 6:57 PM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > John, I think Josef's point was that (similar to one of Mr. Trump's > "alternative facts"), 3000 M's are being claimed whereas we all know only > 640 were originally built. > > That's like the 99% of all BJ8s in existence being "1967s" no matter what > year they were built. [image: winking0001.gif] > > > > Steve Byers > > HBJ8L/36666 > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > Havelock, NC > > > > > > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *John > Harper > *Sent:* Monday, January 23, 2017 11:49 AM > *To:* josef-eckert at t-online.de > *Cc:* Healeys, Forum > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] More than 3000 Factory 100Ms > > > > What a load of rubbish! There might be a large number of conversions but > not originals. Conversions should be call Le Mans. > > > > John Harper > > > > AHC UK 100 Register Secretary > > > > On 23 January 2017 at 16:27, josef-eckert at t-online.de < > josef-eckert at t-online.de> wrote: > > Just heart there is an alternative fact that there are more than 3000 > Factory 100Ms still exist.[image: cool] > > > > Josef Eckert > > K?nigswinter/Germany > > ? > > > > > > > > -- > > Best wishes > > > > John Harper > > > > AHC UK 100 Register Secretary > ------------------------------ > > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 2016.0.7996 / Virus Database: 4749/13781 - Release Date: 01/16/17 > Internal Virus Database is out of date. > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.gif Type: image/gif Size: 696 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.gif Type: image/gif Size: 354 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue Jan 24 01:28:55 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 24 Jan 2017 08:28:55 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] More than 3000 Factory 100Ms References: <1485188869759.5386833.cfec1d106167a7bcbf1258b1c02f69435f742ea4@spica.telekom.de> <030001d275aa$7e5adda0$7b1098e0$@rr.com> It would be nice if you would refrain from the political jibes.? This is the Healey list.? You can go on Facebook and make all the statements you would like to, this is not the forum for them.? The possibility of alienating some members of the list is something that should be avoided.? Don't assume everyone thinks the way you do or wants to hear what your political leanings are.? Personally I am tired of all the election crap and I don't want four years more of it.? Back to Healeys, please. On Monday, January 23, 2017 11:55 PM, Derek Job wrote: Keep politics out of the list. On Mon, Jan 23, 2017 at 6:57 PM, BJ8Healeys wrote: John, I think Josef's point was that (similar to one of Mr. Trump's "alternative facts"), 3000 M's are being claimed whereas we all know only 640 were originally built.That's like the 99% of all BJ8s in existence being "1967s" no matter what year they were built. ?Steve ByersHBJ8L/36666BJ8 RegistryAHCA Delegate at LargeHavelock, NC? ??From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox. team.net] On Behalf Of John Harper Sent: Monday, January 23, 2017 11:49 AM To: josef-eckert at t-online.de Cc: Healeys, Forum Subject: Re: [Healeys] More than 3000 Factory 100Ms?What a load of rubbish! There might be a large number of conversions but not originals. Conversions should be call Le Mans.??John Harper?AHC UK 100 Register Secretary?On 23 January 2017 at 16:27, josef-eckert at t-online.de wrote:Just heart there is an alternative fact that there are more than 3000 Factory 100Ms still exist.?Josef EckertK?nigswinter/Germany? ?-- Best wishes?John Harper?AHC UK 100 Register SecretaryNo virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2016.0.7996 / Virus Database: 4749/13781 - Release Date: 01/16/17 Internal Virus Database is out of date. ______________________________ _________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/ listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.gif Type: image/gif Size: 696 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.gif Type: image/gif Size: 354 bytes Desc: not available URL: From nmcd10 at gmail.com Tue Jan 24 04:55:48 2017 From: nmcd10 at gmail.com (Neil McDonald) Date: Tue, 24 Jan 2017 11:55:48 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] SU carb reamer needed References: <1907327788.2172939.1485213304768@mail.yahoo.com> With adequate resources it's clear that addressing both the shaft and bushing would be the optimum solution. However as an impoverished student over 50 years ago I recall changing out the throttle shafts on my Sprite, at minimal cost, convincing myself that this made a difference! Joe Curto wants around $500 to rebuild a pair of SUs. Now as a retiree I have more resources but still need to manage how much money I spend on my hobby. If the wear is limited, maybe shaft replacement only might be cost effective? _____________________ Neil McDonald BN6 Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com > On 23 Jan 2017, at 23:15, Michael MacLean wrote: > > Might be a better idea to send out the bodies to someone like Joe Curto and have them reamed and re-bushed for a standard shaft. > Mike MacLean > > > On Monday, January 23, 2017 11:06 AM, Michael Oritt wrote: > > > I have H6 carbs on my 100 Le Mans and the 5/16" throttle shafts are loose. I would like to go ream out the bodies and go to the oversized .320" throttle shafts. Moss wants $270.00 for the reaming tool and I do not anticipate I will need to do this job again during my lifetime. Does anyone have one of these they would be willing to loan or rent? > > Best--Michael Oritt > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/nmcd10 at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Tue Jan 24 06:58:46 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Tue, 24 Jan 2017 05:58:46 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] More than 3000 Factory 100Ms References: <1485188869759.5386833.cfec1d106167a7bcbf1258b1c02f69435f742ea4@spica.telekom.de> <030001d275aa$7e5adda0$7b1098e0$@rr.com> ? Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes Portland,OR On Jan 24, 2017 12:00 AM, "Derek Job" wrote: > Keep politics out of the list. > > On Mon, Jan 23, 2017 at 6:57 PM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > >> John, I think Josef's point was that (similar to one of Mr. Trump's >> "alternative facts"), 3000 M's are being claimed whereas we all know only >> 640 were originally built. >> >> That's like the 99% of all BJ8s in existence being "1967s" no matter what >> year they were built. [image: winking0001.gif] >> >> >> >> Steve Byers >> >> HBJ8L/36666 >> >> BJ8 Registry >> >> AHCA Delegate at Large >> >> Havelock, NC >> >> >> >> >> >> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *John >> Harper >> *Sent:* Monday, January 23, 2017 11:49 AM >> *To:* josef-eckert at t-online.de >> *Cc:* Healeys, Forum >> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] More than 3000 Factory 100Ms >> >> >> >> What a load of rubbish! There might be a large number of conversions but >> not originals. Conversions should be call Le Mans. >> >> >> >> John Harper >> >> >> >> AHC UK 100 Register Secretary >> >> >> >> On 23 January 2017 at 16:27, josef-eckert at t-online.de < >> josef-eckert at t-online.de> wrote: >> >> Just heart there is an alternative fact that there are more than 3000 >> Factory 100Ms still exist.[image: cool] >> >> >> >> Josef Eckert >> >> K?nigswinter/Germany >> >> ? >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> -- >> >> Best wishes >> >> >> >> John Harper >> >> >> >> AHC UK 100 Register Secretary >> ------------------------------ >> >> No virus found in this message. >> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >> Version: 2016.0.7996 / Virus Database: 4749/13781 - Release Date: 01/16/17 >> Internal Virus Database is out of date. >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com >> >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.gif Type: image/gif Size: 696 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.gif Type: image/gif Size: 354 bytes Desc: not available URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Tue Jan 24 07:30:06 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Tue, 24 Jan 2017 06:30:06 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] SU carb reamer needed References: <1907327788.2172939.1485213304768@mail.yahoo.com> <01B049C3-8DA6-499C-A315-FD23812245F8@gmail.com> Get standard bushings and have a local machine shop drill the body and insert the bushings or insert them yourself. John BT7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Neil McDonald Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2017 3:56 AM To: Michael MacLean Cc: Austin Healey Subject: Re: [Healeys] SU carb reamer needed With adequate resources it's clear that addressing both the shaft and bushing would be the optimum solution. However as an impoverished student over 50 years ago I recall changing out the throttle shafts on my Sprite, at minimal cost, convincing myself that this made a difference! Joe Curto wants around $500 to rebuild a pair of SUs. Now as a retiree I have more resources but still need to manage how much money I spend on my hobby. If the wear is limited, maybe shaft replacement only might be cost effective? _____________________ Neil McDonald BN6 Might be a better idea to send out the bodies to someone like Joe Curto and have them reamed and re-bushed for a standard shaft. Mike MacLean I have H6 carbs on my 100 Le Mans and the 5/16" throttle shafts are loose. I would like to go ream out the bodies and go to the oversized .320" throttle shafts. Moss wants $270.00 for the reaming tool and I do not anticipate I will need to do this job again during my lifetime. Does anyone have one of these they would be willing to loan or rent? Best--Michael Oritt _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kentmclean at comcast.net Tue Jan 24 07:59:13 2017 From: kentmclean at comcast.net (Kent McLean) Date: Tue, 24 Jan 2017 09:59:13 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Model 75 Sportsboat on BaT References: $50K to refurbish it, and bidding is less than $5K with 2 days to go. You could own a bargain! - Dad > I wrote: > > Up or auction on Bring-a-Trailer. "Over $50k was reportedly spent on refurbishment costs?? > > http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1959-austin-healey-model-75-sportsboat/ > > - > Kent McLean > ?56 100 BN2 > From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Tue Jan 24 10:03:50 2017 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Tue, 24 Jan 2017 17:03:50 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Model 75 Sportsboat on BaT References: , <5F1B8D56-C469-42D7-97E2-8FF47D79459D@comcast.net> Either it would be a great deal or there is no market for old boats, Healey ones or not. Jean ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Kent McLean Sent: January 24, 2017 2:59 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Model 75 Sportsboat on BaT $50K to refurbish it, and bidding is less than $5K with 2 days to go. You could own a bargain! - Dad > I wrote: > > Up or auction on Bring-a-Trailer. "Over $50k was reportedly spent on refurbishment costs..." > > http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1959-austin-healey-model-75-sportsboat/ [http://13252-presscdn-0-94.pagely.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/Screen-Shot-2017-01-18-at-9.38.12-AM.png] 1959 Healey Model 75 Sports Boat bringatrailer.com This 1959 Healey Model 75 "Sports Boat" is a 16-foot fiberglass model with a wood deck and rebuilt 1,500cc inboard motor. Said to be one of 8 in the USA, it was purchased by the seller in 2000 in England and treated to a refurbishment before being shipped here in 2009. Its sale includes an > > - > Kent McLean > '56 100 BN2 > _______________________________________________ www.team.net www.team.net The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Tue Jan 24 10:47:19 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Tue, 24 Jan 2017 09:47:19 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Model 75 Sportsboat on BaT References: <5F1B8D56-C469-42D7-97E2-8FF47D79459D@comcast.net> Great deal, If I had a place to store it inside. Plus who knows how much to ship across the country Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Tue, Jan 24, 2017 at 9:03 AM, Jean Caron < vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com> wrote: > Either it would be a great deal or there is no market for old boats, > Healey ones or not. > > > Jean > > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys on behalf of Kent McLean > > *Sent:* January 24, 2017 2:59 PM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Healey Model 75 Sportsboat on BaT > > $50K to refurbish it, and bidding is less than $5K with 2 days to go. You > could own a bargain! > > - Dad > > > I wrote: > > > > Up or auction on Bring-a-Trailer. "Over $50k was reportedly spent on > refurbishment costs?? > > > > http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1959-austin-healey-model-75-sportsboat/ > > 1959 Healey Model 75 Sports Boat > > bringatrailer.com > This 1959 Healey Model 75 "Sports Boat" is a 16-foot fiberglass model with > a wood deck and rebuilt 1,500cc inboard motor. Said to be one of 8 in the > USA, it was purchased by the seller in 2000 in England and treated to a > refurbishment before being shipped here in 2009. Its sale includes an > > > > > - > > Kent McLean > > ?56 100 BN2 > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > www.team.net > www.team.net > The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time > volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network > connection, name ... > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/vintage_ > roadster_restoration at hotmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bengaard at 850r.dk Tue Jan 24 11:09:20 2017 From: bengaard at 850r.dk (Niels Bengaard) Date: Tue, 24 Jan 2017 19:09:20 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] SU carb reamer needed References: <1907327788.2172939.1485213304768@mail.yahoo.com> <01B049C3-8DA6-499C-A315-FD23812245F8@gmail.com> <000001d2764e$5d26b470$17741d50$@sbcglobal.net> I had a machineshop ream my HD8 carbs and rebush them 5 years ago. I recall they say in the manual that comes with the set that you aren?t supposed to drill straight through, but drill from both sides and leave some material. That took a bit more time to align, but it was possible. He used a reamer for both the outside of the bushes and the inside. http://healey.850r.dk/albums/Picture%20Album/album/Carburettors/index.html Niels Fra: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] P? vegne af John Spaur Sendt: 24. januar 2017 15:30 Til: 'Neil McDonald'; 'Michael MacLean' Cc: 'Austin Healey' Emne: Re: [Healeys] SU carb reamer needed Get standard bushings and have a local machine shop drill the body and insert the bushings or insert them yourself. John BT7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Neil McDonald Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2017 3:56 AM To: Michael MacLean Cc: Austin Healey Subject: Re: [Healeys] SU carb reamer needed With adequate resources it's clear that addressing both the shaft and bushing would be the optimum solution. However as an impoverished student over 50 years ago I recall changing out the throttle shafts on my Sprite, at minimal cost, convincing myself that this made a difference! Joe Curto wants around $500 to rebuild a pair of SUs. Now as a retiree I have more resources but still need to manage how much money I spend on my hobby. If the wear is limited, maybe shaft replacement only might be cost effective? _____________________ Neil McDonald BN6 Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com On 23 Jan 2017, at 23:15, Michael MacLean wrote: Might be a better idea to send out the bodies to someone like Joe Curto and have them reamed and re-bushed for a standard shaft. Mike MacLean On Monday, January 23, 2017 11:06 AM, Michael Oritt wrote: I have H6 carbs on my 100 Le Mans and the 5/16" throttle shafts are loose. I would like to go ream out the bodies and go to the oversized .320" throttle shafts. Moss wants $270.00 for the reaming tool and I do not anticipate I will need to do this job again during my lifetime. Does anyone have one of these they would be willing to loan or rent? Best--Michael Oritt _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From frogeye at porterscustom.com Tue Jan 24 13:42:21 2017 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Tue, 24 Jan 2017 13:42:21 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100 grille surround Does anyone in the group have a reasonably good condition one they will part with? Customer seems to have his. Sigh.. DaveP From austinhealeyslist at gmail.com Tue Jan 24 14:05:50 2017 From: austinhealeyslist at gmail.com (Austin Healeys List) Date: Wed, 25 Jan 2017 10:05:50 +1300 Subject: [Healeys] SU carb reamer needed References: <1907327788.2172939.1485213304768@mail.yahoo.com> <01B049C3-8DA6-499C-A315-FD23812245F8@gmail.com> <000001d2764e$5d26b470$17741d50$@sbcglobal.net> <006001d2766c$fc881d10$f5985730$@dk> An m9 x 0.75mm tap threads nicely into the brass bush and with a bit of heat from a blowtorch and a some hammering on a pin punch from the other side, the bushing will come right out. The brass bushings are ridged around the outside and just require a cleanup lick in the bore with a 3/8 reamer before installing the DU bushings. The secret to getting the reaming aligned is to use a 3/8 reamer backwards with the handle section piloted in the opposite side hole. I can't believe people charge $500 per carb to have this done when it only requires some basic hand tools. Andy. On 1/25/17, Niels Bengaard wrote: > I had a machineshop ream my HD8 carbs and rebush them 5 years ago. > > I recall they say in the manual that comes with the set that you aren?t > supposed to drill straight through, but drill from both sides and leave some > material. > > That took a bit more time to align, but it was possible. He used a reamer > for both the outside of the bushes and the inside. > > > > http://healey.850r.dk/albums/Picture%20Album/album/Carburettors/index.html > > > > Niels > > > > Fra: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] P? vegne af John Spaur > Sendt: 24. januar 2017 15:30 > Til: 'Neil McDonald'; 'Michael MacLean' > Cc: 'Austin Healey' > Emne: Re: [Healeys] SU carb reamer needed > > > > Get standard bushings and have a local machine shop drill the body and > insert the bushings or insert them yourself. > > > > John > > BT7 > > From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Tue Jan 24 14:24:26 2017 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica) Date: Wed, 25 Jan 2017 07:24:26 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] SU carb reamer needed References: <1907327788.2172939.1485213304768@mail.yahoo.com> <01B049C3-8DA6-499C-A315-FD23812245F8@gmail.com> ....also as an impecunious student back in the '70s with an MG TD I bought oversize spindles. I can't remember now if these went in but were tight, or if I drilled the carb body to just under the shaft size. Any way I 'fitted' them by lapping them with something like Brasso with the spindle in an electric drill. Cheers Peter Brisbane BN1 V6 MG TC special (under construction) From: Neil McDonald Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2017 9:55 PM To: Michael MacLean Cc: Austin Healey Subject: Re: [Healeys] SU carb reamer needed With adequate resources it's clear that addressing both the shaft and bushing would be the optimum solution. However as an impoverished student over 50 years ago I recall changing out the throttle shafts on my Sprite, at minimal cost, convincing myself that this made a difference! Joe Curto wants around $500 to rebuild a pair of SUs. Now as a retiree I have more resources but still need to manage how much money I spend on my hobby. If the wear is limited, maybe shaft replacement only might be cost effective? _____________________ Neil McDonald BN6 Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com On 23 Jan 2017, at 23:15, Michael MacLean wrote: Might be a better idea to send out the bodies to someone like Joe Curto and have them reamed and re-bushed for a standard shaft. Mike MacLean On Monday, January 23, 2017 11:06 AM, Michael Oritt wrote: I have H6 carbs on my 100 Le Mans and the 5/16" throttle shafts are loose. I would like to go ream out the bodies and go to the oversized .320" throttle shafts. Moss wants $270.00 for the reaming tool and I do not anticipate I will need to do this job again during my lifetime. Does anyone have one of these they would be willing to loan or rent? Best--Michael Oritt _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/nmcd10 at gmail.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Tue Jan 24 17:20:34 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Tue, 24 Jan 2017 19:20:34 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] SU carb reamer needed References: <1907327788.2172939.1485213304768@mail.yahoo.com> <01B049C3-8DA6-499C-A315-FD23812245F8@gmail.com> <000001d2764e$5d26b470$17741d50$@sbcglobal.net> <006001d2766c$fc881d10$f5985730$@dk> Joe Curto charges about $500 to completely rebuild both carbs. I'm not sure if he would just ream and install the shaft bushings, but his website says he is not accepting anymore work at the moment anyway. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Austin Healeys List Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2017 4:06 PM To: Niels Bengaard Cc: Austin Healey Subject: Re: [Healeys] SU carb reamer needed I can't believe people charge $500 per carb to have this done when it only requires some basic hand tools. Andy. From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Tue Jan 24 20:58:21 2017 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=) Date: Tue, 24 Jan 2017 19:58:21 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?healey_boat?= i am a real believer in the three Fs. if if flies, floats or (you know) it will really be expensive. From fsufan1952 at yahoo.com Tue Jan 24 22:14:27 2017 From: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com (Don Day) Date: Wed, 25 Jan 2017 00:14:27 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] SU carb reamer needed References: <1907327788.2172939.1485213304768@mail.yahoo.com> <01B049C3-8DA6-499C-A315-FD23812245F8@gmail.com> <000001d2764e$5d26b470$17741d50$@sbcglobal.net> <006001d2766c$fc881d10$f5985730$@dk> <005801d276a0$dcaee4e0$960caea0$@rr.com> When your doing a complete restoration of a car , trying to do everything yourself that you have the talent to accomplish, and the tools to do right, sometimes there are jobs that you need to trust to a business, with the talent and good track record. Joe Couto is one of the best in carb rebuilding. He rebuilt my BJ-8 carbs , and was there for tech help in fine tuning them to my car. Don Sent from my iPad > On Jan 24, 2017, at 7:20 PM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > > Joe Curto charges about $500 to completely rebuild both carbs. I'm not sure if he would just ream and install the shaft bushings, but his website says he is not accepting anymore work at the moment anyway. > > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > AHCA Delegate at Large > Havelock, NC > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Austin Healeys List > Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2017 4:06 PM > To: Niels Bengaard > Cc: Austin Healey > Subject: Re: [Healeys] SU carb reamer needed > > I can't believe people charge $500 per carb to have this done when it only requires some basic hand tools. > > > Andy. > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fsufan1952 at yahoo.com > From cnaarndt at gmail.com Tue Jan 24 23:07:45 2017 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt) Date: Tue, 24 Jan 2017 22:07:45 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] healey boat References: <20170125035821.1661.qmail@server278.com> If flies, floats or (you know)... *Rent it!* Healey Boat for sale in SoCal. This is the same boat that was at California Healey Week in Big Bear several years ago, and the one I described to Barry Maguire on "Car Crazy". http://classicshowcase.com/index.php/inventory/detail/1 Fresh restoration, with only one outing on Big Bear Lake. I assisted with this restoration, and I'm familiar with what went into bringing this back to excellent condition. Cheers, Curt On Tue, Jan 24, 2017 at 7:58 PM, healeymanjim wrote: > i am a real believer in the three Fs. if if flies, floats or (you know) > it will really be expensive. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From frogeye at porterscustom.com Wed Jan 25 07:26:49 2017 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Wed, 25 Jan 2017 07:26:49 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100 grille surround References: <4etrywf2jrni1ci2tps309wo.1485290541614@email.android.com> oops... should have read Customer seems to have LOST his. On 1/24/2017 1:42 PM, David Porter wrote: > Does anyone in the group have a reasonably good condition one they will part with? Customer seems to have his. Sigh.. > DaveP > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com > > > -- Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ From michael.oritt at gmail.com Wed Jan 25 07:36:32 2017 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Wed, 25 Jan 2017 09:36:32 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] SU carb reamer needed References: <1907327788.2172939.1485213304768@mail.yahoo.com> <01B049C3-8DA6-499C-A315-FD23812245F8@gmail.com> <000001d2764e$5d26b470$17741d50$@sbcglobal.net> <006001d2766c$fc881d10$f5985730$@dk> <005801d276a0$dcaee4e0$960caea0$@rr.com> All-- I talked with Joe and he is way backed up as in several months. It is still nice enough here in MD to go driving about 50% of the time. From what lots of people say it is very possible that the wear is simply confined to those parts of the throttle shafts which pass through the carb body and if that is the case I will simply replace them with new standard sized shafts. Next time a front comes through and the roads get salted I will pull things apart--in the meantime I am driving and in fact that is what I am going to do today. Best--Michael Oritt On Tue, Jan 24, 2017 at 7:20 PM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > Joe Curto charges about $500 to completely rebuild both carbs. I'm not > sure if he would just ream and install the shaft bushings, but his website > says he is not accepting anymore work at the moment anyway. > > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > AHCA Delegate at Large > Havelock, NC > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Austin > Healeys List > Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2017 4:06 PM > To: Niels Bengaard > Cc: Austin Healey > Subject: Re: [Healeys] SU carb reamer needed > > I can't believe people charge $500 per carb to have this done when it only > requires some basic hand tools. > > > Andy. > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rjsmithson at shaw.ca Wed Jan 25 11:23:48 2017 From: rjsmithson at shaw.ca (RAYMOND SMITHSON) Date: Wed, 25 Jan 2017 11:23:48 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Healeys] 3000 dip stick Can anyone tell me the distance from the stop washer to the max fill line on a 6 cylinder engine oil dip stick? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From neilandcustom at gmail.com Wed Jan 25 13:17:28 2017 From: neilandcustom at gmail.com (Neil Anderson) Date: Wed, 25 Jan 2017 14:17:28 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] 3000 dip stick References: <45953923.84747847.1485368628906.JavaMail.root@shaw.ca> The measurement is 11 inches on my 29D engine. Neil Anderson BT7 On Wed, Jan 25, 2017 at 12:23 PM, RAYMOND SMITHSON wrote: > Can anyone tell me the distance from the stop washer to the max fill line > on a 6 cylinder engine oil dip stick? > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/neilandcustom at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Wed Jan 25 14:44:16 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Wed, 25 Jan 2017 16:44:16 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 3000 dip stick References: <45953923.84747847.1485368628906.JavaMail.root@shaw.ca> It depends on which 3000 you are talking about. For BJ7 (and BJ8 engines up to serial number 29K/RU/H278) the dipstick measures about 1/16" shy of 11 inches from the "max" line to the bottom of the washer. BJ8 engines 29K/RU/H279 and up are about 1/16" shy of 16 inches. I don't know about earlier models. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of RAYMOND SMITHSON Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2017 1:24 PM To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] 3000 dip stick Can anyone tell me the distance from the stop washer to the max fill line on a 6 cylinder engine oil dip stick? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Thu Jan 26 08:25:40 2017 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 10:25:40 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Fluid Reservoir Pics I am working on improvements to the "Brake Reservoir" supplement for the 2018 Concours Guidelines. I need good photos of the following: All 3 lid types. The "Girling" decal fitted to the early 6 cylinder reservoirs. ?I would ask that these be of *original? *installations only please. Please include the serial number, year and body number of the car and any appropriate photo credits. Many thanks, Michael Salter Technical Chairman (Big Healeys) Austin Healey Concours Committee -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Thu Jan 26 10:03:33 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 17:03:33 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol It seems that the UK is to be blessed with this stuff. I've been asked for my thoughts on the topic and, as I know nothing about it, I'm looking for advice. See attached. What are your experiences? And what are the "dos and don'ts"? Thanks, Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: E10 Petrol_20170126_0001.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 2526838 bytes Desc: not available URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu Jan 26 10:53:30 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 09:53:30 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Home built GTO Tribute https://youtu.be/hzNQUPR73Hw Guy built himself a fararri GTO... Hard to imagine what the bits he had to buy cost Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Thu Jan 26 10:56:12 2017 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 12:56:12 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol References: <000301d277f6$20e6c320$62b44960$@homecall.co.uk> Hi Simon, There is a pretty good precis on the subject here: The only issues that I have personally encountered have been with the diaphragms in SU HD series carburettors so I would definitely replace those with modern replacements before filling up with E10 or E85 I have been told that ethanol can damage cork seals although I have yet to see evidence of this. I understand that currently available parts are ethanol compatible. Michael S BN1 #174 On Thu, Jan 26, 2017 at 12:03 PM, Simon Lachlan < simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk> wrote: > It seems that the UK is to be blessed with this stuff. I?ve been asked for > my thoughts on the topic and, as I know nothing about it, I?m looking for > advice. > > See attached. > > What are your experiences? And what are the ?dos and don?ts?? > > Thanks, > > Simon > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > > -- *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.brouillette at comcast.net Thu Jan 26 11:12:03 2017 From: m.brouillette at comcast.net (mike brouillette) Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 13:12:03 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey: Anyone looking for a project MG TD? Just saw this on Ebay. If anyone is looking for a 1950 MG TD project, this could be a good start with a buy it now at $7500. No interest? http://www.ebay.com/itm/272532817015? From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of i erbs Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 12:54 PM To: Ahealey help Subject: [Healeys] Home built GTO Tribute https://youtu.be/hzNQUPR73Hw Guy built himself a fararri GTO... Hard to imagine what the bits he had to buy cost Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Jan 26 11:40:00 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 18:40:00 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol References: <000301d277f6$20e6c320$62b44960$@homecall.co.uk> I've been running mostly E10 in my BJ8 for many years as that is all that is (mostly) available in California, and I've been running it in our BN2 for the last few years/few hundred miles. There is only one anomaly that I attribute--no scientific evidence--to the ethanol: Some stumbling from the BJ8's engine for a few miles after a hot restart (possibly due to vaporization 'bubbles'). We put all new fuel lines in the BN2, but the BJ8 still has the original metal lines and the soft lines were replaced more than 20 years ago. The BJ8's carbs were rebuilt over 20 years ago, with the diaphragms with green 'bellows.' Both cars had their fuel tanks lined with Bill Hirsch gas tank sealant (the BJ8's many, many years ago). If you want to minimize any potential problems: 1) replace rubber components that come in contact with E10 2) clean and seal your gas tanks 3) make sure your carb heat shields are in good nick 4) if your car won't be run for a while, top up the tank and consider one of the fuel treatments (I've never used any but, presumably, it couldn't hurt). If you are going to store your car for an extended period drain the tank and float bowls. Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Simon Lachlan" To: "Healey List" Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 9:03:33 AM Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol It seems that the UK is to be blessed with this stuff. I?ve been asked for my thoughts on the topic and, as I know nothing about it, I?m looking for advice. See attached. What are your experiences? And what are the ?dos and don?ts?? Thanks, Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Thu Jan 26 11:48:30 2017 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 10:48:30 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol References: <000301d277f6$20e6c320$62b44960$@homecall.co.uk> The issues with the Ethanol will depend on the percentage of Ethanol they will be putting in. Here in California most of the Ethanol is 10%. However they are talking about raising that and if they do we will start having real problems. The most common issues we run into are . Overheating and miss fires under heavy load due to lean mixtures. Especially worse on the Tri Carb. This can usually be cured by installing the Rich needles. The other issues are lack of power and lower gas mileage. David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: Simon Lachlan Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 9:03 AM To: 'Healey List' Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol It seems that the UK is to be blessed with this stuff. I?ve been asked for my thoughts on the topic and, as I know nothing about it, I?m looking for advice. See attached. What are your experiences? And what are the ?dos and don?ts?? Thanks, Simon -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu Jan 26 12:06:15 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 11:06:15 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol References: <000301d277f6$20e6c320$62b44960$@homecall.co.uk> eats rubber parts: hoses, carb diaphragms, and fuel pump innards. Replace all fuel line hoses with ethanol tolerant hoses. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Thu, Jan 26, 2017 at 9:03 AM, Simon Lachlan wrote: > It seems that the UK is to be blessed with this stuff. I?ve been asked for > my thoughts on the topic and, as I know nothing about it, I?m looking for > advice. > > See attached. > > What are your experiences? And what are the ?dos and don?ts?? > > Thanks, > > Simon > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Thu Jan 26 13:20:56 2017 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 15:20:56 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol References: <000301d277f6$20e6c320$62b44960$@homecall.co.uk> *I doubt many if any cars in UK are E85 compliant. All fuel lines made prior to 1995 in US were NOT ethanol ready and will fall apart readily.*Hi Randy, Your note has raised a very interesting question. Have you had any experience with original Petroflex hoses failing due to ethanol? We have been subjected to ethanol for many years now and I cannot recall even one incidence of a Petroflex failure that I could attribute to it. My own 100 has an original ? NOS? Smiths Petroflex hose joining the main fuel line to the carb fuel pipe and although it has only been on the road for 2 years since restoration I have not seen any signs of failure and the hose is still very flexible. ?I do know that if you subject a Petroflex hose to "Varsol" ?cleaning fluid it deteriorates rapidly and that should definitely be avoided at all costs. Would appreciate your thoughts. Michael S *?* ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rjhco at att.net Thu Jan 26 14:36:42 2017 From: rjhco at att.net (Richard J. Hockert) Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 15:36:42 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol References: <000301d277f6$20e6c320$62b44960$@homecall.co.uk> <1DD174907DBE47FB9EBFE34D5B050B24@DavidNockHP> The correct AFR for alcohol (ethanol) is around 8 to 1 versus gasoline at 14.7 to 1. Switching to 10% ethanol should equate to about a 5% richer mixture. Ethanol produces more power than gasoline ? hence alcohol race engines but much more fuel required. Your mileage will suffer. Best regards, Jim From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Nock BCS Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 12:49 PM To: Simon Lachlan; 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol The issues with the Ethanol will depend on the percentage of Ethanol they will be putting in. Here in California most of the Ethanol is 10%. However they are talking about raising that and if they do we will start having real problems. The most common issues we run into are . Overheating and miss fires under heavy load due to lean mixtures. Especially worse on the Tri Carb. This can usually be cured by installing the Rich needles. The other issues are lack of power and lower gas mileage. David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 9:03 AM Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol It seems that the UK is to be blessed with this stuff. I?ve been asked for my thoughts on the topic and, as I know nothing about it, I?m looking for advice. See attached. What are your experiences? And what are the ?dos and don?ts?? Thanks, Simon _____ _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Jan 26 15:59:22 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 23:59:22 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol References: <000301d277f6$20e6c320$62b44960$@homecall.co.uk> It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have presumably used E85 for years. This usually contains about 5% ethanol, sometimes considerably more. So you have already changed most if not all rubber parts with modern items that are ethanol resistant. If you still have original rubber parts e.g. hoses, replace them. It is unbelievable that some people still have original fuel hoses, brake hoses etc. fitted. They should have been replaced a very long time ago. Very risky. There are claims it can corrode aluminium alloy parts in the carbs and fuel pump, but I still have to see proper physical evidence of this. Pumps and carbs that have been exposed to ethanol containing petrol for donkeys years are mostly still absolutely clean. If the petrol is contaminated with water or if the carbs/pumps have been dry for years you may see some sediment or corrosion, but this is rare. Kees Oudesluijs Op 26-1-2017 om 20:06 schreef i erbs: > eats rubber parts: hoses, carb diaphragms, and fuel pump innards. > Replace all fuel line hoses with ethanol tolerant hoses. > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > On Thu, Jan 26, 2017 at 9:03 AM, Simon Lachlan > wrote: > > It seems that the UK is to be blessed with this stuff. I?ve been > asked for my thoughts on the topic and, as I know nothing about > it, I?m looking for advice. > > See attached. > > What are your experiences? And what are the ?dos and don?ts?? > > Thanks, > > Simon > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mgcharlie at comcast.net Thu Jan 26 18:03:33 2017 From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin) Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 20:03:33 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey: Anyone looking for a project MG TD? References: <042a01d277ff$b2f1e9d0$18d5bd70$@comcast.net> Way too much money. It would be a worthwhile investment at half that. On 1/26/2017 1:12 PM, mike brouillette wrote: > > Just saw this on Ebay. If anyone is looking for a 1950 MG TD project, > this could be a good start with a buy it now at $7500. > > No interest? > > http://www.ebay.com/itm/272532817015? > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *i erbs > *Sent:* Thursday, January 26, 2017 12:54 PM > *To:* Ahealey help > *Subject:* [Healeys] Home built GTO Tribute > > https://youtu.be/hzNQUPR73Hw > > Guy built himself a fararri GTO... Hard to imagine what the bits he > had to buy cost > > Ira Erbs > > Portland,OR > > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jlyons4 at rochester.rr.com Thu Jan 26 18:23:27 2017 From: jlyons4 at rochester.rr.com (Jim Lyons) Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 20:23:27 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? Hello All, I am looking to replace or repair the DASH TOP on my 1966 BJ8. I?m looking for recommendations for vendors who can supply the material that is closest to the original vinyl ?leathercloth?. I see that MOSS does offer a DASH TOP, PADDED, BLACK ( pt # 633-850 ) for $203. Does anyone sell a kit with just the material ? Thanks, Jim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From steveg at abrazosdata.com Thu Jan 26 18:43:41 2017 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 17:43:41 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Ethanol?= IMO: Ethanol is a boondoggle for farmers. It takes more energy to produce than it saves. -- Steve Gerow Altadena, CA BN6 Maker of most complete Big Healey rear disc kit From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Thu Jan 26 19:10:29 2017 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 21:10:29 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol References: <000301d277f6$20e6c320$62b44960$@homecall.co.uk> Simon, we have been subjected to ethanol for some years here in Canada and confess I did absolutely nothing to my '59 BT7 to adjust to it. I rebuilt the carbs 3 years ago, but prior to that, they had whatever parts I fitted when I previously serviced them, probably 15-20 years ago. I don't thrash the car, and driving normally I noticed no difference in power, and since it is not my regular driver for work etc., I have never bothered much about fuel consumption (would it influence how much drive it?- No!). I can't even recall when I last serviced the fuel pump, it must be at least 25 -30 years ago, perhaps not since I put a new one in around 1975, just after I bought the car. I expect it would affect timing but I always fine-adjust this with the Vernier on the distributor after static setting per usual practice and I get no pinging. Being in Canada, the car is not driven during the salt season from around late November to late March(-ish). I don't top up or drain the tank, or add any fuel stabilizers, and it starts up and runs just fine in the spring (except for needing a boost some years). My advice is just drive it, and if something breaks, THEN fix it. To be clear, I not saying the ethanol has no effect, it plays havoc with the carburation on my vintage motorcycles, which are air-cooled and much less forgiving when burn-rate and combustion temperature are changed with the ethanol. I just think the Healeys, the 3000s at least, can cope with the changes more easily. The only other big effect I noticed is that it is attacking the lining I put in one of my BSA fuel tanks, and I will have to clean that out soon before completely breaks down (the solvent is methyl-ethyl ketone - I can't wait!). Good luck with it, Mirek From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan Sent: January-26-17 12:04 PM To: 'Healey List' Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol It seems that the UK is to be blessed with this stuff. I've been asked for my thoughts on the topic and, as I know nothing about it, I'm looking for advice. See attached. What are your experiences? And what are the "dos and don'ts"? Thanks, Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Thu Jan 26 21:12:33 2017 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 04:12:33 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? References: <991F0077598D4A26A05A4684E2A4391D@LyonsAsusS550C> Jim, John Skinner in the UK sells it, good to deal with , reasonably priced. I am sure there are others too in the US. www.john.skinner.co.uk Jean ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Jim Lyons Sent: January 27, 2017 1:23 AM To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? Hello All, I am looking to replace or repair the DASH TOP on my 1966 BJ8. I'm looking for recommendations for vendors who can supply the material that is closest to the original vinyl "leathercloth". I see that MOSS does offer a DASH TOP, PADDED, BLACK ( pt # 633-850 ) for $203. Does anyone sell a kit with just the material ? Thanks, Jim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com Thu Jan 26 22:06:02 2017 From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 05:06:02 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol References: <20170127014342.1102.qmail@hoster902.com> I get a solid 12% LESS miles on Calif 91 octane (highest available) than I do here in KY with 93 octane (highest available) But I am seeing more 10% Ethanol fuel in KY than in previous years. But we have many ethanol free offerings in the area. Had to change fuel line on Healey recently when it began leaking from splits/disintegration. I smelled it before I found it. Nearly a fire risk. Regards, Richard Of KY BN7 #440 > On Jan 26, 2017, at 9:26 PM, Steve B. Gerow wrote: > > IMO: > Ethanol is a boondoggle for farmers. It takes more energy to produce than it saves. > > -- > Steve Gerow > Altadena, CA > BN6 > From josef-eckert at t-online.de Thu Jan 26 23:07:02 2017 From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 07:07:02 +0100 (MET) Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol References: <000301d277f6$20e6c320$62b44960$@homecall.co.uk> Here in Europe most Austin-Healeys (95%+) were completely restored with new parts, lines, hoses, fitted. I only know one or two cars out of 100 which only got a tidying up since they were built. So extremely rare. I have many friends who use E10 (95 Octane) in their classic cars without any problems. My Austin-Healeys need 98+ Octane, so I stay with the premium fuels from Shell (V-Power (101 Octane), or ARAL Ultimate (103 Octane). These premium fuels, or the Super Plus (98 Octane) contain below 5% Ethanol. So I haven?t faced any problems. I would have some problems using E10 (95 Octane), as it would cause after-run of the engines, which are eliminated with higher octane fuels. Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Datum: 2017-01-27T02:15:07+0100 Von: "Oudesluys" An: "healeys at autox.team.net" It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have presumably used E85 for years. This usually contains about 5% ethanol, sometimes considerably more. So you have already changed most if not all rubber parts with modern items that are ethanol resistant. If you still have original rubber parts e.g. hoses, replace them. It is unbelievable that some people still have original fuel hoses, brake hoses etc. fitted. They should have been replaced a very long time ago. Very risky. There are claims it can corrode aluminium alloy parts in the carbs and fuel pump, but I still have to see proper physical evidence of this. Pumps and carbs that have been exposed to ethanol containing petrol for donkeys years are mostly still absolutely clean. If the petrol is contaminated with water or if the carbs/pumps have been dry for years you may see some sediment or corrosion, but this is rare. Kees Oudesluijs Op 26-1-2017 om 20:06 schreef i erbs: eats rubber parts: hoses, carb diaphragms, and fuel pump innards. Replace all fuel line hoses with ethanol tolerant hoses. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Thu, Jan 26, 2017 at 9:03 AM, Simon Lachlan < wrote: It seems that the UK is to be blessed with this stuff. I?ve been asked for my thoughts on the topic and, as I know nothing about it, I?m looking for advice. See attached. What are your experiences? And what are the ?dos and don?ts?? Thanks, Simon _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Thu Jan 26 23:54:48 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 22:54:48 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol References: <000301d277f6$20e6c320$62b44960$@homecall.co.uk> <1485497222007.6248468.9f7d93919ffb3ba7849f922f045ff06a5fb1a9ee@spica.telekom.de> Wish I could get 93 octane let alone 95 or 98! John San Jose, CA From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of josef-eckert at t-online.de Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 10:07 PM To: Oudesluys ; Healeys, Forum Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol ?I have many friends who use E10 (95 Octane) in their classic cars without any problems. My Austin-Healeys need 98+ Octane,? Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From josef-eckert at t-online.de Thu Jan 26 23:59:51 2017 From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 07:59:51 +0100 (MET) Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol References: <000301d277f6$20e6c320$62b44960$@homecall.co.uk> <1485497222007.6248468.9f7d93919ffb3ba7849f922f045ff06a5fb1a9ee@spica.telekom.de> <000501d2786a$4174dd10$c45e9730$@sbcglobal.net> John, as far as I know 95 grade "European Octane" is comparable with 91 grade "American Octane". Don?t know the reason for that, as I never went into it further. I.E. Afgas for plane engines is about 103 Octane Europe. Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: RE: [Healeys] Ethanol Datum: 2017-01-27T07:54:53+0100 Von: "John Spaur" An: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" , "'Oudesluys'" , "'Healeys, Forum'" Wish I could get 93 octane let alone 95 or 98! John San Jose, CA From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of josef-eckert at t-online.de Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 10:07 PM To: Oudesluys ; Healeys, Forum Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol ?I have many friends who use E10 (95 Octane) in their classic cars without any problems. My Austin-Healeys need 98+ Octane,? Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From derek.c.job at gmail.com Fri Jan 27 00:58:38 2017 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 07:58:38 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? References: <991F0077598D4A26A05A4684E2A4391D@LyonsAsusS550C> AH Spares sell the leather cloth by the metre. Derek On Fri, Jan 27, 2017 at 1:23 AM, Jim Lyons wrote: > Hello All, > I am looking to replace or repair the DASH TOP on my 1966 BJ8. I?m looking > for recommendations for vendors who can supply the material that is > closest to the original vinyl ?leathercloth?. > I see that MOSS does offer a DASH TOP, PADDED, BLACK ( pt # 633-850 ) for > $203. Does anyone sell a kit with just the material ? > > Thanks, > Jim > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Jan 27 02:44:27 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 10:44:27 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol References: <000301d277f6$20e6c320$62b44960$@homecall.co.uk> In Europe there was often a substantial amount of ethanol in post war petrol wel into the '60's. Petrol was not of the best quality and ethanol was used as an octane booster. Not many problems at the time. Kees Oudesluijs Op 26-1-2017 om 21:20 schreef Michael Salter: > /I doubt many if any cars in UK are E85 compliant. All fuel lines > made prior to 1995 in US were NOT ethanol ready and will fall apart > readily. > > /Hi Randy, > Your note has raised a very interesting question. > Have you had any experience with original Petroflex hoses failing due > to ethanol? > We have been subjected to ethanol for many years now and I cannot > recall even one incidence of a Petroflex failure that I could > attribute to it. > My own 100 has an original > ? NOS? > Smiths Petroflex hose joining the main fuel line to the carb fuel pipe > and although it has only been on the road for 2 years since > restoration I have not seen any signs of failure and the hose is still > very flexible. > ?I do know that if you subject a Petroflex hose to "Varsol" ?cleaning > fluid it deteriorates rapidly and that should definitely be avoided at > all costs. > Would appreciate your thoughts. > > Michael S > > > > > > /?/ > ? > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Jan 27 05:25:03 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 13:25:03 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol References: <000301d277f6$20e6c320$62b44960$@homecall.co.uk> Op 26-1-2017 om 23:59 schreef Oudesluys: > It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have > presumably used E85 for years Should of course be E95 Kees Oudesluijs From rchaskell at earthlink.net Fri Jan 27 06:33:12 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 08:33:12 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol References: <000301d277f6$20e6c320$62b44960$@homecall.co.uk> <1485497222007.6248468.9f7d93919ffb3ba7849f922f045ff06a5fb1a9ee@spica.telekom.de> <000501d2786a$4174dd10$c45e9730$@sbcglobal.net> <1485500391228.6130407.3568cfdf787e44368a8b41d97a311d79d249f1fa@spica.telekom.de> John and Josef, There are two methods for measuring octane rating - motoring and research. The average of the two is used in the US. The higher research octane number is used in Europe. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 01/27/2017 01:59 AM, josef-eckert at t-online.de wrote: > John, > > as far as I know 95 grade "European Octane" is comparable with 91 grade > "American Octane". Don?t know the reason for that, as I never went into > it further. I.E. Afgas for plane engines is about 103 Octane Europe. > > Josef Eckert > > K?nigswinter/Germany > > -----Original-Nachricht----- > > Betreff: RE: [Healeys] Ethanol > > Datum: 2017-01-27T07:54:53+0100 > > Von: "John Spaur" > > An: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" , "'Oudesluys'" > , "'Healeys, Forum'" > > Wish I could get 93 octane let alone 95 or 98! > > John > > San Jose, CA > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *josef-eckert at t-online.de > *Sent:* Thursday, January 26, 2017 10:07 PM > *To:* Oudesluys ; Healeys, Forum > > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > > ?I have many friends who use E10 (95 Octane) in their classic cars > without any problems. My Austin-Healeys need 98+ Octane,? > > Josef Eckert > > K?nigswinter/Germany > > ? > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Jan 27 07:05:03 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 06:05:03 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? References: <991F0077598D4A26A05A4684E2A4391D@LyonsAsusS550C> Mods sells material by the yard Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes Portland,OR On Jan 26, 2017 6:52 PM, "Jim Lyons" wrote: > Hello All, > I am looking to replace or repair the DASH TOP on my 1966 BJ8. I?m looking > for recommendations for vendors who can supply the material that is > closest to the original vinyl ?leathercloth?. > I see that MOSS does offer a DASH TOP, PADDED, BLACK ( pt # 633-850 ) for > $203. Does anyone sell a kit with just the material ? > > Thanks, > Jim > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Jan 27 07:14:30 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 14:14:30 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol References: <000301d277f6$20e6c320$62b44960$@homecall.co.uk> My BJ8 has had a Petroflex line in it for 100K+ miles and 25+ years and hasn't had a problem. It does feel a little stiff and since I'm doing an overhaul I've bought a replacement (watch it crap out in 3 months ;). Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Salter" To: "Randy Alkins" , "healeys" Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 12:20:56 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol I doubt many if any cars in UK are E85 compliant. All fuel lines made prior to 1995 in US were NOT ethanol ready and will fall apart readily. Hi Randy, Your note has raised a very interesting question. Have you had any experience with original Petroflex hoses failing due to ethanol? We have been subjected to ethanol for many years now and I cannot recall even one incidence of a Petroflex failure that I could attribute to it. My own 100 has an original ? NOS? Smiths Petroflex hose joining the main fuel line to the carb fuel pipe and although it has only been on the road for 2 years since restoration I have not seen any signs of failure and the hose is still very flexible. ?I do know that if you subject a Petroflex hose to "Varsol" ?cleaning fluid it deteriorates rapidly and that should definitely be avoided at all costs. Would appreciate your thoughts. Michael S ? ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Jan 27 07:20:02 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 14:20:02 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol References: <000301d277f6$20e6c320$62b44960$@homecall.co.uk> <1DD174907DBE47FB9EBFE34D5B050B24@DavidNockHP> <067501d2781c$4a0d2ac0$de278040$@att.net> Ethanol has a much lower energy content than gasoline, hence the lower mileage with gasahol. See here: http://www.afdc.energy.gov/fuels/fuel_comparison_chart.pdf ('alternate fuels,' not 'alternate facts') It does, however, have a higher octane rating allowing the huge compression ratios in dragsters and other racers; which is what produces the massive power in those engines. Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard J. Hockert" To: "David Nock BCS" , "Simon Lachlan" , "Healey List" Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 1:36:42 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol The correct AFR for alcohol (ethanol) is around 8 to 1 versus gasoline at 14.7 to 1. Switching to 10% ethanol should equate to about a 5% richer mixture. Ethanol produces more power than gasoline ? hence alcohol race engines but much more fuel required. Your mileage will suffer. Best regards, Jim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Jan 27 08:36:53 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 15:36:53 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol References: <000301d277f6$20e6c320$62b44960$@homecall.co.uk> <1485497222007.6248468.9f7d93919ffb3ba7849f922f045ff06a5fb1a9ee@spica.telekom.de> <000501d2786a$4174dd10$c45e9730$@sbcglobal.net> I believe the European octane ratings are Research Method only, which reads 3-5 points higher than US (R+M)/2. So, European 98 octane would be equivalent to US 93 octane (rare, but available in some areas in the States; 100-octane is available for boat engines around Havasu). Contrary to popular belief, ethanol can actually raise octane. There's a gas station in Los Altos that used to sell 95-octane, which was E10 IIRC. It's very difficult to raise the octane rating of pure gas--it requires special refining--that's why TEL was added starting around WWII for high-compression fighter engines (it was 'discovered' at the Sloan-Kettering institute, who tested several thousand compounds before settling on TEL). Adding ethanol to gasoline means the gas part doesn't have to be as carefully refined (hence 'cheaper'). There is an exhaustive research program being undertaken in order to develop an aviation fuel to replace 100LL--100-octane, 'low-lead,' which I believe is 'only' 2 grams/gallon of elemental lead vs. 3 grams/gallon of previous formulations--and it is proceeding very slowly due to its complexity. I've run tanks of E10 and tanks of pure gas, and didn't notice any significant variance in mileage, but it's usually an 'oranges-to-apples' comparison since most runs involve a mix of highway/freeway and grades, stop-and-go, etc. ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Spaur" To: josef-eckert at t-online.de, "Oudesluys" , "Forum' 'Healeys" Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 10:54:48 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Wish I could get 93 octane let alone 95 or 98! John San Jose, CA -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Jan 27 08:43:12 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 15:43:12 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol References: <000301d277f6$20e6c320$62b44960$@homecall.co.uk> <1b7feb54-9c7f-8d7e-03d8-7d628186c316@chello.nl> OK, now I be confused. In the States, E10 is 10% ethanol, E85 is 85% ethanol, so E95 would be 95% ethanol. Is that correct? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Oudesluys" To: "healeys" Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 4:25:03 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Op 26-1-2017 om 23:59 schreef Oudesluys: > It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have > presumably used E85 for years Should of course be E95 Kees Oudesluijs -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From waschu2 at gmail.com Fri Jan 27 09:04:04 2017 From: waschu2 at gmail.com (Wayne) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 11:04:04 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BJ-8 rear end housing Hello, My rear end housing is bent and I may need a replacement. I would be interested in a complete assembly or just the housing itself. I discovered the problem when I had difficulty removing the rear axles, and once they are out they bind on the hub studs preventing reassembly. I will pull the differential today and install the axles to see how bad the misalignment is. I am located in CT. Wayne From randyalkins at gmail.com Fri Jan 27 10:04:54 2017 From: randyalkins at gmail.com (randyalkins) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 12:04:54 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol Have not heard of 95. There is talk of e15 which will be bad for all. 10 was bad. And some warranties will be denied by engine maufacturers if it goes to 15 Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device-------- Original message --------From: Bob Spidell Date: 1/27/2017 10:43 AM (GMT-05:00) To: Oudesluys Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol OK, now I be confused.? In the States, E10 is 10% ethanol, E85 is 85% ethanol, so E95 would be 95% ethanol.? Is that correct? From: "Oudesluys" To: "healeys" Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 4:25:03 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Op 26-1-2017 om 23:59 schreef Oudesluys: > It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have > presumably used E85 for years Should of course be E95 Kees Oudesluijs -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at gmail.com Fri Jan 27 11:54:38 2017 From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 10:54:38 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol References: <000301d277f6$20e6c320$62b44960$@homecall.co.uk> <1b7feb54-9c7f-8d7e-03d8-7d628186c316@chello.nl> <532867142.104914937.1485531792988.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net> Check out this report/ road test of a comparison of E85 to Gas. https://www.edmunds.com/fuel-economy/e85-vs-gasoline-comparison-test.html Here at the shop we have been dealing with this problem for a long time with a lot of cars. And found the same problems with all of them, some worse than others. Overheating due the removal of the gas and addition of the Ethanol. The Ethanol burns hotter which reduces emissions. This causes older cars to run hotter. Lower gas mileage and lower performance Miss fires and Lack of power due to the leaner mixture. The is especially worse on a Tri Carb Healey, the rear carb will lean out on a long hard run at a steady hight rpm. Also Ethanol has a very strong cleaning ability, So if you start using Ethanol in a older gas tank or a tank that has been sitting for while that has a lot of varnish build up. The Ethanol will go about its cleaning ability and clean up all that varnish in the tank and deposit it in the carburettors. I know that there are lots of those out there that have all the techy stuff. But I go by what I have learned by over 40 year of working on all British cars and lots of them. The bottom line with 10 % Ethanol your Vintage car will run hotter, get worse fuel economy and may experience miss fires under heavy acceleration. David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 209 948 8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: Bob Spidell Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 7:43 AM To: Oudesluys Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol OK, now I be confused. In the States, E10 is 10% ethanol, E85 is 85% ethanol, so E95 would be 95% ethanol. Is that correct? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Oudesluys" To: "healeys" Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 4:25:03 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Op 26-1-2017 om 23:59 schreef Oudesluys: > It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have > presumably used E85 for years Should of course be E95 Kees Oudesluijs -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From SIMON_GRIF at msn.com Fri Jan 27 12:21:05 2017 From: SIMON_GRIF at msn.com (Simon Griffin) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 19:21:05 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Correct Jack for a 54 BN1 For my MG TD I have a nice Shelley 6DL jack and set of handles. This Jack looks very much like the King Dick Jack. What I am not sure about is what is the correct Jack for the 100 in late 54? Was it a Shelley or a King Dick or were they both used? For the TD it could be either in 53 (mine was built July 53) and it would have had a set of handles split in half that were turned with a 9 1/2 " tommy bar. I have also seen handles with a larger hole and a wooden handle to turn. Can anyone confirm what is correct for the 100? Thanks Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cnaarndt at gmail.com Fri Jan 27 14:15:12 2017 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 13:15:12 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? References: <991F0077598D4A26A05A4684E2A4391D@LyonsAsusS550C> Derek, Check with Woolies in the UK. I recently ordered their Green non-stretch vinyl and it was spot on. Square weave cotton backing that was green (like the original "Vynide" was) versus white or off white like a lot of modern replacements. Cheers, Curt On Thu, Jan 26, 2017 at 11:58 PM, Derek Job wrote: > AH Spares sell the leather cloth by the metre. > > Derek > > On Fri, Jan 27, 2017 at 1:23 AM, Jim Lyons > wrote: > >> Hello All, >> I am looking to replace or repair the DASH TOP on my 1966 BJ8. I?m >> looking for recommendations for vendors who can supply the material that >> is closest to the original vinyl ?leathercloth?. >> I see that MOSS does offer a DASH TOP, PADDED, BLACK ( pt # 633-850 ) for >> $203. Does anyone sell a kit with just the material ? >> >> Thanks, >> Jim >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com >> >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From YNOTINK at msn.com Fri Jan 27 14:23:23 2017 From: YNOTINK at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 21:23:23 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol References: <000301d277f6$20e6c320$62b44960$@homecall.co.uk> <1DD174907DBE47FB9EBFE34D5B050B24@DavidNockHP> <067501d2781c$4a0d2ac0$de278040$@att.net>, <528184118.104844061.1485526802079.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net> Agreed. To put some rough numbers to it ethanol has approximately 60% of the energy content of gasoline (petrol if you prefer). Methanol is even worse at around 55%. To produce equivalent work you need to burn approximately 4% more 10% ethanol fuel. The reason alcohol is used in racing engines is (as noted below) that its higher octane rating allows huge increases in compression ratio. To achieve power gains on alcohol requires a massive increase in the amount of fuel used. A single run for an alcohol powered dragster may use 5 gallons of fuel or more. Other advantages to alcohol burning are that mixing the larger concentrations of alcohol provides a cooling effect that improves volumetric efficiency and that alcohol contains some oxygen that promotes better burning. ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Bob Spidell Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 2:20:02 PM To: Richard J. Hockert Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Ethanol has a much lower energy content than gasoline, hence the lower mileage with gasahol. See here: http://www.afdc.energy.gov/fuels/fuel_comparison_chart.pdf ('alternate fuels,' not 'alternate facts') It does, however, have a higher octane rating allowing the huge compression ratios in dragsters and other racers; which is what produces the massive power in those engines. Bob ________________________________ From: "Richard J. Hockert" To: "David Nock BCS" , "Simon Lachlan" , "Healey List" Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 1:36:42 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol The correct AFR for alcohol (ethanol) is around 8 to 1 versus gasoline at 14.7 to 1. Switching to 10% ethanol should equate to about a 5% richer mixture. Ethanol produces more power than gasoline - hence alcohol race engines but much more fuel required. Your mileage will suffer. Best regards, Jim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From john at jtkarowe.com.au Fri Jan 27 15:17:28 2017 From: john at jtkarowe.com.au (John Rowe) Date: Sat, 28 Jan 2017 08:17:28 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol References: <000301d277f6$20e6c320$62b44960$@homecall.co.uk> <1DD174907DBE47FB9EBFE34D5B050B24@DavidNockHP> <067501d2781c$4a0d2ac0$de278040$@att.net> <528184118.104844061.1485526802079.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net> Bob, I think you will find that dragsters run on methanol, which is a different kettle of fish. In Australia we have E10 (10%) supposedly 94?? octane. I won?t use it in my Healeys as it is rubbish (2c per litre cheaper than 91 unleaded). One small fuel company makes E85 which a friend uses in a Datsun 1600 (510) race car fitted with EFI. He had to increase the fuelling by 30% from that for 100 octane Av-gas to obtain the same hp figures. The exhaust stink is sickly and sweet and unbearable. Might be great for the environment, not good for humans I use 95 or 98 octane in all my cars. For the low mileage they do, the extra expense is negligible. I totally agree with David Nocks comments in his recent email John Rowe Qld Australia BN1 BT7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Saturday, 28 January 2017 12:20 AM To: Richard J. Hockert Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Ethanol has a much lower energy content than gasoline, hence the lower mileage with gasahol. See here: http://www.afdc.energy.gov/fuels/fuel_comparison_chart.pdf ('alternate fuels,' not 'alternate facts') It does, however, have a higher octane rating allowing the huge compression ratios in dragsters and other racers; which is what produces the massive power in those engines. Bob _____ From: "Richard J. Hockert" To: "David Nock BCS" , "Simon Lachlan" , "Healey List" Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 1:36:42 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol The correct AFR for alcohol (ethanol) is around 8 to 1 versus gasoline at 14.7 to 1. Switching to 10% ethanol should equate to about a 5% richer mixture. Ethanol produces more power than gasoline ? hence alcohol race engines but much more fuel required. Your mileage will suffer. Best regards, Jim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jc9821 at msn.com Fri Jan 27 16:07:30 2017 From: jc9821 at msn.com (John and Judy Carter) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 23:07:30 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 soft brake pedal References: After bleeding brakes and car sits for a time the brake pedal is soft again. You can pump it up to a firm pedal but it is soft again at the next application. This occurs whether you are driving the car or not (brake booster is fairly new). I cannot find any leaks and the reservoir stays full(silicone fluid). ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of healeys-request at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 2:00 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 33 Send Healeys mailing list submissions to healeys at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net autox.team.net To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to healeys-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at healeys-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: Ethanol (i erbs) 2. Re: Ethanol (Michael Salter) 3. Re: Ethanol (Richard J. Hockert) 4. Re: Ethanol (Oudesluys) 5. Re: Non Healey: Anyone looking for a project MG TD? (Charlie Baldwin) 6. DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? (Jim Lyons) 7. Re: Ethanol (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) 8. Re: Ethanol (Mirek Sharp) 9. Re: DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? (Jean Caron) 10. Re: Ethanol (Richard Collins) 11. Re: Ethanol (josef-eckert at t-online.de) 12. Re: Ethanol (John Spaur) 13. Re: Ethanol (josef-eckert at t-online.de) 14. Re: DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? (Derek Job) 15. Re: Ethanol (Oudesluys) 16. Re: Ethanol (Oudesluys) 17. Re: Ethanol (Bob Haskell) 18. Re: DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? (i erbs) 19. Re: Ethanol (Bob Spidell) 20. Re: Ethanol (Bob Spidell) 21. Re: Ethanol (Bob Spidell) 22. Re: Ethanol (Bob Spidell) 23. BJ-8 rear end housing (Wayne) 24. Re: Ethanol (randyalkins) 25. Re: Ethanol (David Nock) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 11:06:15 -0800 From: i erbs To: Simon Lachlan Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Message-ID: eats rubber parts: hoses, carb diaphragms, and fuel pump innards. Replace all fuel line hoses with ethanol tolerant hoses. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Thu, Jan 26, 2017 at 9:03 AM, Simon Lachlan wrote: > It seems that the UK is to be blessed with this stuff. I?ve been asked for > my thoughts on the topic and, as I know nothing about it, I?m looking for > advice. > > See attached. > > What are your experiences? And what are the ?dos and don?ts?? > > Thanks, > > Simon > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html www.team.net www.team.net The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Mail Archives - Team.Net www.team.net Team.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest updated. > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net autox.team.net To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 15:20:56 -0500 From: Michael Salter To: Randy Alkins , "healeys at autox.team.net" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Message-ID: *I doubt many if any cars in UK are E85 compliant. All fuel lines made prior to 1995 in US were NOT ethanol ready and will fall apart readily.*Hi Randy, Your note has raised a very interesting question. Have you had any experience with original Petroflex hoses failing due to ethanol? We have been subjected to ethanol for many years now and I cannot recall even one incidence of a Petroflex failure that I could attribute to it. My own 100 has an original ? NOS? Smiths Petroflex hose joining the main fuel line to the carb fuel pipe and although it has only been on the road for 2 years since restoration I have not seen any signs of failure and the hose is still very flexible. ?I do know that if you subject a Petroflex hose to "Varsol" ?cleaning fluid it deteriorates rapidly and that should definitely be avoided at all costs. Would appreciate your thoughts. Michael S *?* ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 15:36:42 -0600 From: "Richard J. Hockert" To: "'David Nock BCS'" , "'Simon Lachlan'" , "'Healey List'" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol The correct AFR for alcohol (ethanol) is around 8 to 1 versus gasoline at 14.7 to 1. Switching to 10% ethanol should equate to about a 5% richer mixture. Ethanol produces more power than gasoline ? hence alcohol race engines but much more fuel required. Your mileage will suffer. Best regards, Jim From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Nock BCS Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 12:49 PM To: Simon Lachlan; 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol The issues with the Ethanol will depend on the percentage of Ethanol they will be putting in. Here in California most of the Ethanol is 10%. However they are talking about raising that and if they do we will start having real problems. The most common issues we run into are . Overheating and miss fires under heavy load due to lean mixtures. Especially worse on the Tri Carb. This can usually be cured by installing the Rich needles. The other issues are lack of power and lower gas mileage. David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 9:03 AM Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol It seems that the UK is to be blessed with this stuff. I?ve been asked for my thoughts on the topic and, as I know nothing about it, I?m looking for advice. See attached. What are your experiences? And what are the ?dos and don?ts?? Thanks, Simon _____ _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 23:59:22 +0100 From: Oudesluys To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have presumably used E85 for years. This usually contains about 5% ethanol, sometimes considerably more. So you have already changed most if not all rubber parts with modern items that are ethanol resistant. If you still have original rubber parts e.g. hoses, replace them. It is unbelievable that some people still have original fuel hoses, brake hoses etc. fitted. They should have been replaced a very long time ago. Very risky. There are claims it can corrode aluminium alloy parts in the carbs and fuel pump, but I still have to see proper physical evidence of this. Pumps and carbs that have been exposed to ethanol containing petrol for donkeys years are mostly still absolutely clean. If the petrol is contaminated with water or if the carbs/pumps have been dry for years you may see some sediment or corrosion, but this is rare. Kees Oudesluijs Op 26-1-2017 om 20:06 schreef i erbs: > eats rubber parts: hoses, carb diaphragms, and fuel pump innards. > Replace all fuel line hoses with ethanol tolerant hoses. > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > On Thu, Jan 26, 2017 at 9:03 AM, Simon Lachlan > wrote: > > It seems that the UK is to be blessed with this stuff. I?ve been > asked for my thoughts on the topic and, as I know nothing about > it, I?m looking for advice. > > See attached. > > What are your experiences? And what are the ?dos and don?ts?? > > Thanks, > > Simon > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 20:03:33 -0500 From: Charlie Baldwin To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Non Healey: Anyone looking for a project MG TD? Way too much money. It would be a worthwhile investment at half that. On 1/26/2017 1:12 PM, mike brouillette wrote: > > Just saw this on Ebay. If anyone is looking for a 1950 MG TD project, > this could be a good start with a buy it now at $7500. > > No interest? > > http://www.ebay.com/itm/272532817015? > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *i erbs > *Sent:* Thursday, January 26, 2017 12:54 PM > *To:* Ahealey help > *Subject:* [Healeys] Home built GTO Tribute > > https://youtu.be/hzNQUPR73Hw > > Guy built himself a fararri GTO... Hard to imagine what the bits he > had to buy cost > > Ira Erbs > > Portland,OR > > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 20:23:27 -0500 From: "Jim Lyons" To: Subject: [Healeys] DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? Hello All, I am looking to replace or repair the DASH TOP on my 1966 BJ8. I?m looking for recommendations for vendors who can supply the material that is closest to the original vinyl ?leathercloth?. I see that MOSS does offer a DASH TOP, PADDED, BLACK ( pt # 633-850 ) for $203. Does anyone sell a kit with just the material ? Thanks, Jim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 7 Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 17:43:41 -0800 From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=" To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol IMO: Ethanol is a boondoggle for farmers. It takes more energy to produce than it saves. -- Steve Gerow Altadena, CA BN6 Maker of most complete Big Healey rear disc kit ------------------------------ Message: 8 Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 21:10:29 -0500 From: "Mirek Sharp" To: "'Simon Lachlan'" , "'Healey List'" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Simon, we have been subjected to ethanol for some years here in Canada and confess I did absolutely nothing to my '59 BT7 to adjust to it. I rebuilt the carbs 3 years ago, but prior to that, they had whatever parts I fitted when I previously serviced them, probably 15-20 years ago. I don't thrash the car, and driving normally I noticed no difference in power, and since it is not my regular driver for work etc., I have never bothered much about fuel consumption (would it influence how much drive it?- No!). I can't even recall when I last serviced the fuel pump, it must be at least 25 -30 years ago, perhaps not since I put a new one in around 1975, just after I bought the car. I expect it would affect timing but I always fine-adjust this with the Vernier on the distributor after static setting per usual practice and I get no pinging. Being in Canada, the car is not driven during the salt season from around late November to late March(-ish). I don't top up or drain the tank, or add any fuel stabilizers, and it starts up and runs just fine in the spring (except for needing a boost some years). My advice is just drive it, and if something breaks, THEN fix it. To be clear, I not saying the ethanol has no effect, it plays havoc with the carburation on my vintage motorcycles, which are air-cooled and much less forgiving when burn-rate and combustion temperature are changed with the ethanol. I just think the Healeys, the 3000s at least, can cope with the changes more easily. The only other big effect I noticed is that it is attacking the lining I put in one of my BSA fuel tanks, and I will have to clean that out soon before completely breaks down (the solvent is methyl-ethyl ketone - I can't wait!). Good luck with it, Mirek From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan Sent: January-26-17 12:04 PM To: 'Healey List' Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol It seems that the UK is to be blessed with this stuff. I've been asked for my thoughts on the topic and, as I know nothing about it, I'm looking for advice. See attached. What are your experiences? And what are the "dos and don'ts"? Thanks, Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 9 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 04:12:33 +0000 From: Jean Caron To: Jim Lyons , "Healeys at autox.team.net" Subject: Re: [Healeys] DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? Message-ID: Jim, John Skinner in the UK sells it, good to deal with , reasonably priced. I am sure there are others too in the US. www.john.skinner.co.uk> Jean ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Jim Lyons Sent: January 27, 2017 1:23 AM To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? Hello All, I am looking to replace or repair the DASH TOP on my 1966 BJ8. I'm looking for recommendations for vendors who can supply the material that is closest to the original vinyl "leathercloth". I see that MOSS does offer a DASH TOP, PADDED, BLACK ( pt # 633-850 ) for $203. Does anyone sell a kit with just the material ? Thanks, Jim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 10 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 05:06:02 +0000 From: Richard Collins To: "Steve B. Gerow" Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Message-ID: I get a solid 12% LESS miles on Calif 91 octane (highest available) than I do here in KY with 93 octane (highest available) But I am seeing more 10% Ethanol fuel in KY than in previous years. But we have many ethanol free offerings in the area. Had to change fuel line on Healey recently when it began leaking from splits/disintegration. I smelled it before I found it. Nearly a fire risk. Regards, Richard Of KY BN7 #440 > On Jan 26, 2017, at 9:26 PM, Steve B. Gerow wrote: > > IMO: > Ethanol is a boondoggle for farmers. It takes more energy to produce than it saves. > > -- > Steve Gerow > Altadena, CA > BN6 > ------------------------------ Message: 11 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 07:07:02 +0100 (MET) From: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" To: Oudesluys , "Healeys, Forum" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Message-ID: <1485497222007.6248468.9f7d93919ffb3ba7849f922f045ff06a5fb1a9ee at spica.telekom.de> Here in Europe most Austin-Healeys (95%+) were completely restored with new parts, lines, hoses, fitted. I only know one or two cars out of 100 which only got a tidying up since they were built. So extremely rare. I have many friends who use E10 (95 Octane) in their classic cars without any problems. My Austin-Healeys need 98+ Octane, so I stay with the premium fuels from Shell (V-Power (101 Octane), or ARAL Ultimate (103 Octane). These premium fuels, or the Super Plus (98 Octane) contain below 5% Ethanol. So I haven?t faced any problems. I would have some problems using E10 (95 Octane), as it would cause after-run of the engines, which are eliminated with higher octane fuels. Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Datum: 2017-01-27T02:15:07+0100 Von: "Oudesluys" An: "healeys at autox.team.net" It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have presumably used E85 for years. This usually contains about 5% ethanol, sometimes considerably more. So you have already changed most if not all rubber parts with modern items that are ethanol resistant. If you still have original rubber parts e.g. hoses, replace them. It is unbelievable that some people still have original fuel hoses, brake hoses etc. fitted. They should have been replaced a very long time ago. Very risky. There are claims it can corrode aluminium alloy parts in the carbs and fuel pump, but I still have to see proper physical evidence of this. Pumps and carbs that have been exposed to ethanol containing petrol for donkeys years are mostly still absolutely clean. If the petrol is contaminated with water or if the carbs/pumps have been dry for years you may see some sediment or corrosion, but this is rare. Kees Oudesluijs Op 26-1-2017 om 20:06 schreef i erbs: eats rubber parts: hoses, carb diaphragms, and fuel pump innards. Replace all fuel line hoses with ethanol tolerant hoses. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Thu, Jan 26, 2017 at 9:03 AM, Simon Lachlan < wrote: It seems that the UK is to be blessed with this stuff. I?ve been asked for my thoughts on the topic and, as I know nothing about it, I?m looking for advice. See attached. What are your experiences? And what are the ?dos and don?ts?? Thanks, Simon _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 12 Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 22:54:48 -0800 From: "John Spaur" To: , "'Oudesluys'" , "'Healeys, Forum'" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Wish I could get 93 octane let alone 95 or 98! John San Jose, CA From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of josef-eckert at t-online.de Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 10:07 PM To: Oudesluys ; Healeys, Forum Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol ?I have many friends who use E10 (95 Octane) in their classic cars without any problems. My Austin-Healeys need 98+ Octane,? Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 13 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 07:59:51 +0100 (MET) From: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" To: John Spaur , "Healeys, Forum" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Message-ID: <1485500391228.6130407.3568cfdf787e44368a8b41d97a311d79d249f1fa at spica.telekom.de> John, as far as I know 95 grade "European Octane" is comparable with 91 grade "American Octane". Don?t know the reason for that, as I never went into it further. I.E. Afgas for plane engines is about 103 Octane Europe. Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: RE: [Healeys] Ethanol Datum: 2017-01-27T07:54:53+0100 Von: "John Spaur" An: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" , "'Oudesluys'" , "'Healeys, Forum'" Wish I could get 93 octane let alone 95 or 98! John San Jose, CA From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of josef-eckert at t-online.de Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 10:07 PM To: Oudesluys ; Healeys, Forum Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol ?I have many friends who use E10 (95 Octane) in their classic cars without any problems. My Austin-Healeys need 98+ Octane,? Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 14 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 07:58:38 +0000 From: Derek Job To: Jim Lyons Cc: Forum Subject: Re: [Healeys] DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? Message-ID: AH Spares sell the leather cloth by the metre. Derek On Fri, Jan 27, 2017 at 1:23 AM, Jim Lyons wrote: > Hello All, > I am looking to replace or repair the DASH TOP on my 1966 BJ8. I?m looking > for recommendations for vendors who can supply the material that is > closest to the original vinyl ?leathercloth?. > I see that MOSS does offer a DASH TOP, PADDED, BLACK ( pt # 633-850 ) for > $203. Does anyone sell a kit with just the material ? > > Thanks, > Jim > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 15 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 10:44:27 +0100 From: Oudesluys To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol In Europe there was often a substantial amount of ethanol in post war petrol wel into the '60's. Petrol was not of the best quality and ethanol was used as an octane booster. Not many problems at the time. Kees Oudesluijs Op 26-1-2017 om 21:20 schreef Michael Salter: > /I doubt many if any cars in UK are E85 compliant. All fuel lines > made prior to 1995 in US were NOT ethanol ready and will fall apart > readily. > > /Hi Randy, > Your note has raised a very interesting question. > Have you had any experience with original Petroflex hoses failing due > to ethanol? > We have been subjected to ethanol for many years now and I cannot > recall even one incidence of a Petroflex failure that I could > attribute to it. > My own 100 has an original > ? NOS? > Smiths Petroflex hose joining the main fuel line to the carb fuel pipe > and although it has only been on the road for 2 years since > restoration I have not seen any signs of failure and the hose is still > very flexible. > ?I do know that if you subject a Petroflex hose to "Varsol" ?cleaning > fluid it deteriorates rapidly and that should definitely be avoided at > all costs. > Would appreciate your thoughts. > > Michael S > > > > > > /?/ > ? > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 16 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 13:25:03 +0100 From: Oudesluys To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Op 26-1-2017 om 23:59 schreef Oudesluys: > It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have > presumably used E85 for years Should of course be E95 Kees Oudesluijs ------------------------------ Message: 17 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 08:33:12 -0500 From: Bob Haskell To: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" , John Spaur , "Healeys, Forum" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol John and Josef, There are two methods for measuring octane rating - motoring and research. The average of the two is used in the US. The higher research octane number is used in Europe. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 01/27/2017 01:59 AM, josef-eckert at t-online.de wrote: > John, > > as far as I know 95 grade "European Octane" is comparable with 91 grade > "American Octane". Don?t know the reason for that, as I never went into > it further. I.E. Afgas for plane engines is about 103 Octane Europe. > > Josef Eckert > > K?nigswinter/Germany > > -----Original-Nachricht----- > > Betreff: RE: [Healeys] Ethanol > > Datum: 2017-01-27T07:54:53+0100 > > Von: "John Spaur" > > An: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" , "'Oudesluys'" > , "'Healeys, Forum'" > > Wish I could get 93 octane let alone 95 or 98! > > John > > San Jose, CA > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *josef-eckert at t-online.de > *Sent:* Thursday, January 26, 2017 10:07 PM > *To:* Oudesluys ; Healeys, Forum > > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > > ?I have many friends who use E10 (95 Octane) in their classic cars > without any problems. My Austin-Healeys need 98+ Octane,? > > Josef Eckert > > K?nigswinter/Germany > > ? > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > ------------------------------ Message: 18 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 06:05:03 -0800 From: i erbs To: Jim Lyons Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? Message-ID: Mods sells material by the yard Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes Portland,OR On Jan 26, 2017 6:52 PM, "Jim Lyons" wrote: > Hello All, > I am looking to replace or repair the DASH TOP on my 1966 BJ8. I?m looking > for recommendations for vendors who can supply the material that is > closest to the original vinyl ?leathercloth?. > I see that MOSS does offer a DASH TOP, PADDED, BLACK ( pt # 633-850 ) for > $203. Does anyone sell a kit with just the material ? > > Thanks, > Jim > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 19 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 14:14:30 +0000 (UTC) From: Bob Spidell To: Michael Salter Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Message-ID: <1341990277.104838709.1485526470549.JavaMail.zimbra at comcast.net> My BJ8 has had a Petroflex line in it for 100K+ miles and 25+ years and hasn't had a problem. It does feel a little stiff and since I'm doing an overhaul I've bought a replacement (watch it crap out in 3 months ;). Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Salter" To: "Randy Alkins" , "healeys" Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 12:20:56 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol I doubt many if any cars in UK are E85 compliant. All fuel lines made prior to 1995 in US were NOT ethanol ready and will fall apart readily. Hi Randy, Your note has raised a very interesting question. Have you had any experience with original Petroflex hoses failing due to ethanol? We have been subjected to ethanol for many years now and I cannot recall even one incidence of a Petroflex failure that I could attribute to it. My own 100 has an original ? NOS? Smiths Petroflex hose joining the main fuel line to the carb fuel pipe and although it has only been on the road for 2 years since restoration I have not seen any signs of failure and the hose is still very flexible. ?I do know that if you subject a Petroflex hose to "Varsol" ?cleaning fluid it deteriorates rapidly and that should definitely be avoided at all costs. Would appreciate your thoughts. Michael S ? ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 20 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 14:20:02 +0000 (UTC) From: Bob Spidell To: "Richard J. Hockert" Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Message-ID: <528184118.104844061.1485526802079.JavaMail.zimbra at comcast.net> Ethanol has a much lower energy content than gasoline, hence the lower mileage with gasahol. See here: http://www.afdc.energy.gov/fuels/fuel_comparison_chart.pdf ('alternate fuels,' not 'alternate facts') It does, however, have a higher octane rating allowing the huge compression ratios in dragsters and other racers; which is what produces the massive power in those engines. Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard J. Hockert" To: "David Nock BCS" , "Simon Lachlan" , "Healey List" Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 1:36:42 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol The correct AFR for alcohol (ethanol) is around 8 to 1 versus gasoline at 14.7 to 1. Switching to 10% ethanol should equate to about a 5% richer mixture. Ethanol produces more power than gasoline ? hence alcohol race engines but much more fuel required. Your mileage will suffer. Best regards, Jim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 21 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 15:36:53 +0000 (UTC) From: Bob Spidell To: John Spaur Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Message-ID: <1823390093.104910346.1485531413259.JavaMail.zimbra at comcast.net> I believe the European octane ratings are Research Method only, which reads 3-5 points higher than US (R+M)/2. So, European 98 octane would be equivalent to US 93 octane (rare, but available in some areas in the States; 100-octane is available for boat engines around Havasu). Contrary to popular belief, ethanol can actually raise octane. There's a gas station in Los Altos that used to sell 95-octane, which was E10 IIRC. It's very difficult to raise the octane rating of pure gas--it requires special refining--that's why TEL was added starting around WWII for high-compression fighter engines (it was 'discovered' at the Sloan-Kettering institute, who tested several thousand compounds before settling on TEL). Adding ethanol to gasoline means the gas part doesn't have to be as carefully refined (hence 'cheaper'). There is an exhaustive research program being undertaken in order to develop an aviation fuel to replace 100LL--100-octane, 'low-lead,' which I believe is 'only' 2 grams/gallon of elemental lead vs. 3 grams/gallon of previous formulations--and it is proceeding very slowly due to its complexity. I've run tanks of E10 and tanks of pure gas, and didn't notice any significant variance in mileage, but it's usually an 'oranges-to-apples' comparison since most runs involve a mix of highway/freeway and grades, stop-and-go, etc. ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Spaur" To: josef-eckert at t-online.de, "Oudesluys" , "Forum' 'Healeys" Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 10:54:48 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Wish I could get 93 octane let alone 95 or 98! John San Jose, CA -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 22 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 15:43:12 +0000 (UTC) From: Bob Spidell To: Oudesluys Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Message-ID: <532867142.104914937.1485531792988.JavaMail.zimbra at comcast.net> OK, now I be confused. In the States, E10 is 10% ethanol, E85 is 85% ethanol, so E95 would be 95% ethanol. Is that correct? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Oudesluys" To: "healeys" Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 4:25:03 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Op 26-1-2017 om 23:59 schreef Oudesluys: > It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have > presumably used E85 for years Should of course be E95 Kees Oudesluijs -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 23 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 11:04:04 -0500 From: Wayne To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BJ-8 rear end housing Hello, My rear end housing is bent and I may need a replacement. I would be interested in a complete assembly or just the housing itself. I discovered the problem when I had difficulty removing the rear axles, and once they are out they bind on the hub studs preventing reassembly. I will pull the differential today and install the axles to see how bad the misalignment is. I am located in CT. Wayne ------------------------------ Message: 24 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 12:04:54 -0500 From: randyalkins To: Bob Spidell , Oudesluys Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Have not heard of 95. There is talk of e15 which will be bad for all. 10 was bad. And some warranties will be denied by engine maufacturers if it goes to 15 Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device-------- Original message --------From: Bob Spidell Date: 1/27/2017 10:43 AM (GMT-05:00) To: Oudesluys Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol OK, now I be confused.? In the States, E10 is 10% ethanol, E85 is 85% ethanol, so E95 would be 95% ethanol.? Is that correct? From: "Oudesluys" To: "healeys" Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 4:25:03 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Op 26-1-2017 om 23:59 schreef Oudesluys: > It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have > presumably used E85 for years Should of course be E95 Kees Oudesluijs -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 25 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 10:54:38 -0800 From: "David Nock" To: "Bob Spidell" , "Oudesluys" Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Check out this report/ road test of a comparison of E85 to Gas. https://www.edmunds.com/fuel-economy/e85-vs-gasoline-comparison-test.html Here at the shop we have been dealing with this problem for a long time with a lot of cars. And found the same problems with all of them, some worse than others. Overheating due the removal of the gas and addition of the Ethanol. The Ethanol burns hotter which reduces emissions. This causes older cars to run hotter. Lower gas mileage and lower performance Miss fires and Lack of power due to the leaner mixture. The is especially worse on a Tri Carb Healey, the rear carb will lean out on a long hard run at a steady hight rpm. Also Ethanol has a very strong cleaning ability, So if you start using Ethanol in a older gas tank or a tank that has been sitting for while that has a lot of varnish build up. The Ethanol will go about its cleaning ability and clean up all that varnish in the tank and deposit it in the carburettors. I know that there are lots of those out there that have all the techy stuff. But I go by what I have learned by over 40 year of working on all British cars and lots of them. The bottom line with 10 % Ethanol your Vintage car will run hotter, get worse fuel economy and may experience miss fires under heavy acceleration. David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 209 948 8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: Bob Spidell Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 7:43 AM To: Oudesluys Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol OK, now I be confused. In the States, E10 is 10% ethanol, E85 is 85% ethanol, so E95 would be 95% ethanol. Is that correct? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Oudesluys" To: "healeys" Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 4:25:03 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Op 26-1-2017 om 23:59 schreef Oudesluys: > It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have > presumably used E85 for years Should of course be E95 Kees Oudesluijs -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ Healeys mailing list Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys ------------------------------ End of Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 33 *************************************** -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From molony at dodo.com.au Fri Jan 27 17:04:19 2017 From: molony at dodo.com.au (Graeme Molony) Date: Sat, 28 Jan 2017 11:04:19 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Correct Jack for a 54 BN1 References: Simon Have a look at the web site www:classic-british-car-jacks.uk and check out the photo?s and information on both King Dick and Shelley jacks. I think you will find what you require. If memory serves me correctly Roger Moment produced a comprehensive article which appeared some time ago in one of the American magazines which listed and showed photo?s of all the original Healey Jacks. Some one on the list may be able to steer you to a copy Graeme M Mt Martha Aust. From: Simon Griffin Sent: Saturday, January 28, 2017 6:21 AM To: healeys Subject: [Healeys] Correct Jack for a 54 BN1 For my MG TD I have a nice Shelley 6DL jack and set of handles. This Jack looks very much like the King Dick Jack. What I am not sure about is what is the correct Jack for the 100 in late 54? Was it a Shelley or a King Dick or were they both used? For the TD it could be either in 53 (mine was built July 53) and it would have had a set of handles split in half that were turned with a 9 1/2 " tommy bar. I have also seen handles with a larger hole and a wooden handle to turn. Can anyone confirm what is correct for the 100? Thanks Simon -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jstmorris at yahoo.com Fri Jan 27 19:25:40 2017 From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris) Date: Sat, 28 Jan 2017 02:25:40 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Correct Jack for a 54 BN1 References: Hello Simon;? The attached article by Roger Moment may be of some interest and help. ?--Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives On Friday, January 27, 2017 6:15 PM, Simon Griffin wrote: For my MG TD I have a nice Shelley 6DL jack and set of handles. ? This Jack looks very much like the King Dick Jack. ? What I am not sure about is what is the correct Jack for the 100 in late 54? ? Was it a Shelley or a King Dick or were they both used? For the TD it could be either in 53 (mine was built July 53) and it would have had a set of handles split in half that were turned with a 9 1/2 " tommy bar. ? I have also seen handles with a larger hole and a wooden handle to turn. ? Can anyone confirm what is correct for the 100? ThanksSimon _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Jacks-Concours-Article by Roger Moment a.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 227540 bytes Desc: not available URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Jan 27 19:57:03 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 18:57:03 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] anyone looking for a project car? http://tinyurl.com/hm9y222 Looks to me like you would be paying $4K for a vin #, but some people like a challenge Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From SIMON_GRIF at msn.com Fri Jan 27 20:02:40 2017 From: SIMON_GRIF at msn.com (Simon Griffin) Date: Sat, 28 Jan 2017 03:02:40 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Correct Jack for a 54 BN1 References: , <1764110728.685160.1485570340273@mail.yahoo.com> Scott and Graeme, thanks very much, just the information I needed. I had no idea that there were so many changes in the jack models during the short production period for the car. ________________________________ From: J. Scott Morris Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 8:25 PM To: Simon Griffin; healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Correct Jack for a 54 BN1 Hello Simon; The attached article by Roger Moment may be of some interest and help. --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives On Friday, January 27, 2017 6:15 PM, Simon Griffin wrote: For my MG TD I have a nice Shelley 6DL jack and set of handles. This Jack looks very much like the King Dick Jack. What I am not sure about is what is the correct Jack for the 100 in late 54? Was it a Shelley or a King Dick or were they both used? For the TD it could be either in 53 (mine was built July 53) and it would have had a set of handles split in half that were turned with a 9 1/2 " tommy bar. I have also seen handles with a larger hole and a wooden handle to turn. Can anyone confirm what is correct for the 100? Thanks Simon _______________________________________________ www.team.net www.team.net The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Mail Archives - Team.Net www.team.net Team.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest updated. http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Fri Jan 27 20:03:27 2017 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 19:03:27 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?ethanol?= my healey is sitting now awaiting two new jet assemblys. noticed that every time i used the choke gas was coming out bottom of front carb. took it off and discovered a small hole that would come open when i used the choke. the rubber was getting hard and inflexible. i am assuming the new ones are much better because they sure do cost a lot more than the old ones. think that was the last of my old style rubber parts to be changed out. From SIMON_GRIF at msn.com Fri Jan 27 20:12:54 2017 From: SIMON_GRIF at msn.com (Simon Griffin) Date: Sat, 28 Jan 2017 03:12:54 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Correct Jack for a 54 BN1 References: , <1764110728.685160.1485570340273@mail.yahoo.com> Scott and Graeme, thanks very much, just the information I needed. I had no idea that there were so many changes in the jack models during the short production period for the car. ________________________________ From: J. Scott Morris Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 8:25 PM To: Simon Griffin; healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Correct Jack for a 54 BN1 Hello Simon; The attached article by Roger Moment may be of some interest and help. --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives On Friday, January 27, 2017 6:15 PM, Simon Griffin wrote: For my MG TD I have a nice Shelley 6DL jack and set of handles. This Jack looks very much like the King Dick Jack. What I am not sure about is what is the correct Jack for the 100 in late 54? Was it a Shelley or a King Dick or were they both used? For the TD it could be either in 53 (mine was built July 53) and it would have had a set of handles split in half that were turned with a 9 1/2 " tommy bar. I have also seen handles with a larger hole and a wooden handle to turn. Can anyone confirm what is correct for the 100? Thanks Simon _______________________________________________ www.team.net www.team.net The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Jan 27 20:13:46 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 28 Jan 2017 03:13:46 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol References: <000301d277f6$20e6c320$62b44960$@homecall.co.uk> <1DD174907DBE47FB9EBFE34D5B050B24@DavidNockHP> <067501d2781c$4a0d2ac0$de278040$@att.net> <528184118.104844061.1485526802079.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net> <002d01d278eb$260e6150$722b23f0$@com.au> Ah, right you are. It's just that I much prefer ethanol ;) Same deal with anti-detonation qualities though, I believe. Now, if they'd just put nitromethane in gas ... ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Rowe" To: "Bob Spidell" , "Richard J. Hockert" Cc: "healeys" Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 2:17:28 PM Subject: RE: [Healeys] Ethanol Bob, I think you will find that dragsters run on methanol, which is a different kettle of fish. In Australia we have E10 (10%) supposedly 94?? octane. I won?t use it in my Healeys as it is rubbish (2c per litre cheaper than 91 unleaded). One small fuel company makes E85 which a friend uses in a Datsun 1600 (510) race car fitted with EFI. He had to increase the fuelling by 30% from that for 100 octane Av-gas to obtain the same hp figures. The exhaust stink is sickly and sweet and unbearable. Might be great for the environment, not good for humans I use 95 or 98 octane in all my cars. For the low mileage they do, the extra expense is negligible. I totally agree with David Nocks comments in his recent email John Rowe Qld Australia BN1 BT7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Saturday, 28 January 2017 12:20 AM To: Richard J. Hockert Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Ethanol has a much lower energy content than gasoline, hence the lower mileage with gasahol. See here: http://www.afdc.energy.gov/fuels/fuel_comparison_chart.pdf ('alternate fuels,' not 'alternate facts') It does, however, have a higher octane rating allowing the huge compression ratios in dragsters and other racers; which is what produces the massive power in those engines. Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard J. Hockert" < rjhco at att.net > To: "David Nock BCS" < healeydoc at sbcglobal.net >, "Simon Lachlan" < simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk >, "Healey List" < healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 1:36:42 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol The correct AFR for alcohol (ethanol) is around 8 to 1 versus gasoline at 14.7 to 1. Switching to 10% ethanol should equate to about a 5% richer mixture. Ethanol produces more power than gasoline ? hence alcohol race engines but much more fuel required. Your mileage will suffer. Best regards, Jim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From YNOTINK at msn.com Fri Jan 27 20:32:37 2017 From: YNOTINK at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Sat, 28 Jan 2017 03:32:37 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 soft brake pedal References: , This is a symptom of air bubbles in the brake fluid. The bubbles are compressed when the brakes are pumped and the brakes seem normal, but release the pressure and they expand again and you lose braking force. There are some characteristics of the Girling braking system that can make them hard to bleed. In some cases (100 and 100-6) the bleeders are lower than the brake cylinders so air bubbles may not move with the fluid as it is expelled. It may take extra effort to bleed them properly. ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of John and Judy Carter Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 11:07:30 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 soft brake pedal After bleeding brakes and car sits for a time the brake pedal is soft again. You can pump it up to a firm pedal but it is soft again at the next application. This occurs whether you are driving the car or not (brake booster is fairly new). I cannot find any leaks and the reservoir stays full(silicone fluid). ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of healeys-request at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 2:00 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 33 Send Healeys mailing list submissions to healeys at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net autox.team.net To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to healeys-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at healeys-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: Ethanol (i erbs) 2. Re: Ethanol (Michael Salter) 3. Re: Ethanol (Richard J. Hockert) 4. Re: Ethanol (Oudesluys) 5. Re: Non Healey: Anyone looking for a project MG TD? (Charlie Baldwin) 6. DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? (Jim Lyons) 7. Re: Ethanol (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) 8. Re: Ethanol (Mirek Sharp) 9. Re: DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? (Jean Caron) 10. Re: Ethanol (Richard Collins) 11. Re: Ethanol (josef-eckert at t-online.de) 12. Re: Ethanol (John Spaur) 13. Re: Ethanol (josef-eckert at t-online.de) 14. Re: DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? (Derek Job) 15. Re: Ethanol (Oudesluys) 16. Re: Ethanol (Oudesluys) 17. Re: Ethanol (Bob Haskell) 18. Re: DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? (i erbs) 19. Re: Ethanol (Bob Spidell) 20. Re: Ethanol (Bob Spidell) 21. Re: Ethanol (Bob Spidell) 22. Re: Ethanol (Bob Spidell) 23. BJ-8 rear end housing (Wayne) 24. Re: Ethanol (randyalkins) 25. Re: Ethanol (David Nock) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 11:06:15 -0800 From: i erbs To: Simon Lachlan Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Message-ID: eats rubber parts: hoses, carb diaphragms, and fuel pump innards. Replace all fuel line hoses with ethanol tolerant hoses. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Thu, Jan 26, 2017 at 9:03 AM, Simon Lachlan wrote: > It seems that the UK is to be blessed with this stuff. I?ve been asked for > my thoughts on the topic and, as I know nothing about it, I?m looking for > advice. > > See attached. > > What are your experiences? And what are the ?dos and don?ts?? > > Thanks, > > Simon > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html www.team.net www.team.net The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Mail Archives - Team.Net www.team.net Team.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest updated. > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net autox.team.net To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 15:20:56 -0500 From: Michael Salter To: Randy Alkins , "healeys at autox.team.net" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Message-ID: *I doubt many if any cars in UK are E85 compliant. All fuel lines made prior to 1995 in US were NOT ethanol ready and will fall apart readily.*Hi Randy, Your note has raised a very interesting question. Have you had any experience with original Petroflex hoses failing due to ethanol? We have been subjected to ethanol for many years now and I cannot recall even one incidence of a Petroflex failure that I could attribute to it. My own 100 has an original ? NOS? Smiths Petroflex hose joining the main fuel line to the carb fuel pipe and although it has only been on the road for 2 years since restoration I have not seen any signs of failure and the hose is still very flexible. ?I do know that if you subject a Petroflex hose to "Varsol" ?cleaning fluid it deteriorates rapidly and that should definitely be avoided at all costs. Would appreciate your thoughts. Michael S *?* ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 15:36:42 -0600 From: "Richard J. Hockert" To: "'David Nock BCS'" , "'Simon Lachlan'" , "'Healey List'" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol The correct AFR for alcohol (ethanol) is around 8 to 1 versus gasoline at 14.7 to 1. Switching to 10% ethanol should equate to about a 5% richer mixture. Ethanol produces more power than gasoline ? hence alcohol race engines but much more fuel required. Your mileage will suffer. Best regards, Jim From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Nock BCS Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 12:49 PM To: Simon Lachlan; 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol The issues with the Ethanol will depend on the percentage of Ethanol they will be putting in. Here in California most of the Ethanol is 10%. However they are talking about raising that and if they do we will start having real problems. The most common issues we run into are . Overheating and miss fires under heavy load due to lean mixtures. Especially worse on the Tri Carb. This can usually be cured by installing the Rich needles. The other issues are lack of power and lower gas mileage. David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 9:03 AM Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol It seems that the UK is to be blessed with this stuff. I?ve been asked for my thoughts on the topic and, as I know nothing about it, I?m looking for advice. See attached. What are your experiences? And what are the ?dos and don?ts?? Thanks, Simon _____ _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 23:59:22 +0100 From: Oudesluys To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have presumably used E85 for years. This usually contains about 5% ethanol, sometimes considerably more. So you have already changed most if not all rubber parts with modern items that are ethanol resistant. If you still have original rubber parts e.g. hoses, replace them. It is unbelievable that some people still have original fuel hoses, brake hoses etc. fitted. They should have been replaced a very long time ago. Very risky. There are claims it can corrode aluminium alloy parts in the carbs and fuel pump, but I still have to see proper physical evidence of this. Pumps and carbs that have been exposed to ethanol containing petrol for donkeys years are mostly still absolutely clean. If the petrol is contaminated with water or if the carbs/pumps have been dry for years you may see some sediment or corrosion, but this is rare. Kees Oudesluijs Op 26-1-2017 om 20:06 schreef i erbs: > eats rubber parts: hoses, carb diaphragms, and fuel pump innards. > Replace all fuel line hoses with ethanol tolerant hoses. > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > On Thu, Jan 26, 2017 at 9:03 AM, Simon Lachlan > wrote: > > It seems that the UK is to be blessed with this stuff. I?ve been > asked for my thoughts on the topic and, as I know nothing about > it, I?m looking for advice. > > See attached. > > What are your experiences? And what are the ?dos and don?ts?? > > Thanks, > > Simon > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 20:03:33 -0500 From: Charlie Baldwin To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Non Healey: Anyone looking for a project MG TD? Way too much money. It would be a worthwhile investment at half that. On 1/26/2017 1:12 PM, mike brouillette wrote: > > Just saw this on Ebay. If anyone is looking for a 1950 MG TD project, > this could be a good start with a buy it now at $7500. > > No interest? > > http://www.ebay.com/itm/272532817015? > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *i erbs > *Sent:* Thursday, January 26, 2017 12:54 PM > *To:* Ahealey help > *Subject:* [Healeys] Home built GTO Tribute > > https://youtu.be/hzNQUPR73Hw > > Guy built himself a fararri GTO... Hard to imagine what the bits he > had to buy cost > > Ira Erbs > > Portland,OR > > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 20:23:27 -0500 From: "Jim Lyons" To: Subject: [Healeys] DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? Hello All, I am looking to replace or repair the DASH TOP on my 1966 BJ8. I?m looking for recommendations for vendors who can supply the material that is closest to the original vinyl ?leathercloth?. I see that MOSS does offer a DASH TOP, PADDED, BLACK ( pt # 633-850 ) for $203. Does anyone sell a kit with just the material ? Thanks, Jim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 7 Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 17:43:41 -0800 From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=" To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol IMO: Ethanol is a boondoggle for farmers. It takes more energy to produce than it saves. -- Steve Gerow Altadena, CA BN6 Maker of most complete Big Healey rear disc kit ------------------------------ Message: 8 Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 21:10:29 -0500 From: "Mirek Sharp" To: "'Simon Lachlan'" , "'Healey List'" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Simon, we have been subjected to ethanol for some years here in Canada and confess I did absolutely nothing to my '59 BT7 to adjust to it. I rebuilt the carbs 3 years ago, but prior to that, they had whatever parts I fitted when I previously serviced them, probably 15-20 years ago. I don't thrash the car, and driving normally I noticed no difference in power, and since it is not my regular driver for work etc., I have never bothered much about fuel consumption (would it influence how much drive it?- No!). I can't even recall when I last serviced the fuel pump, it must be at least 25 -30 years ago, perhaps not since I put a new one in around 1975, just after I bought the car. I expect it would affect timing but I always fine-adjust this with the Vernier on the distributor after static setting per usual practice and I get no pinging. Being in Canada, the car is not driven during the salt season from around late November to late March(-ish). I don't top up or drain the tank, or add any fuel stabilizers, and it starts up and runs just fine in the spring (except for needing a boost some years). My advice is just drive it, and if something breaks, THEN fix it. To be clear, I not saying the ethanol has no effect, it plays havoc with the carburation on my vintage motorcycles, which are air-cooled and much less forgiving when burn-rate and combustion temperature are changed with the ethanol. I just think the Healeys, the 3000s at least, can cope with the changes more easily. The only other big effect I noticed is that it is attacking the lining I put in one of my BSA fuel tanks, and I will have to clean that out soon before completely breaks down (the solvent is methyl-ethyl ketone - I can't wait!). Good luck with it, Mirek From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan Sent: January-26-17 12:04 PM To: 'Healey List' Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol It seems that the UK is to be blessed with this stuff. I've been asked for my thoughts on the topic and, as I know nothing about it, I'm looking for advice. See attached. What are your experiences? And what are the "dos and don'ts"? Thanks, Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 9 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 04:12:33 +0000 From: Jean Caron To: Jim Lyons , "Healeys at autox.team.net" Subject: Re: [Healeys] DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? Message-ID: Jim, John Skinner in the UK sells it, good to deal with , reasonably priced. I am sure there are others too in the US. www.john.skinner.co.uk> Jean ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Jim Lyons Sent: January 27, 2017 1:23 AM To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? Hello All, I am looking to replace or repair the DASH TOP on my 1966 BJ8. I'm looking for recommendations for vendors who can supply the material that is closest to the original vinyl "leathercloth". I see that MOSS does offer a DASH TOP, PADDED, BLACK ( pt # 633-850 ) for $203. Does anyone sell a kit with just the material ? Thanks, Jim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 10 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 05:06:02 +0000 From: Richard Collins To: "Steve B. Gerow" Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Message-ID: I get a solid 12% LESS miles on Calif 91 octane (highest available) than I do here in KY with 93 octane (highest available) But I am seeing more 10% Ethanol fuel in KY than in previous years. But we have many ethanol free offerings in the area. Had to change fuel line on Healey recently when it began leaking from splits/disintegration. I smelled it before I found it. Nearly a fire risk. Regards, Richard Of KY BN7 #440 > On Jan 26, 2017, at 9:26 PM, Steve B. Gerow wrote: > > IMO: > Ethanol is a boondoggle for farmers. It takes more energy to produce than it saves. > > -- > Steve Gerow > Altadena, CA > BN6 > ------------------------------ Message: 11 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 07:07:02 +0100 (MET) From: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" To: Oudesluys , "Healeys, Forum" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Message-ID: <1485497222007.6248468.9f7d93919ffb3ba7849f922f045ff06a5fb1a9ee at spica.telekom.de> Here in Europe most Austin-Healeys (95%+) were completely restored with new parts, lines, hoses, fitted. I only know one or two cars out of 100 which only got a tidying up since they were built. So extremely rare. I have many friends who use E10 (95 Octane) in their classic cars without any problems. My Austin-Healeys need 98+ Octane, so I stay with the premium fuels from Shell (V-Power (101 Octane), or ARAL Ultimate (103 Octane). These premium fuels, or the Super Plus (98 Octane) contain below 5% Ethanol. So I haven?t faced any problems. I would have some problems using E10 (95 Octane), as it would cause after-run of the engines, which are eliminated with higher octane fuels. Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Datum: 2017-01-27T02:15:07+0100 Von: "Oudesluys" An: "healeys at autox.team.net" It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have presumably used E85 for years. This usually contains about 5% ethanol, sometimes considerably more. So you have already changed most if not all rubber parts with modern items that are ethanol resistant. If you still have original rubber parts e.g. hoses, replace them. It is unbelievable that some people still have original fuel hoses, brake hoses etc. fitted. They should have been replaced a very long time ago. Very risky. There are claims it can corrode aluminium alloy parts in the carbs and fuel pump, but I still have to see proper physical evidence of this. Pumps and carbs that have been exposed to ethanol containing petrol for donkeys years are mostly still absolutely clean. If the petrol is contaminated with water or if the carbs/pumps have been dry for years you may see some sediment or corrosion, but this is rare. Kees Oudesluijs Op 26-1-2017 om 20:06 schreef i erbs: eats rubber parts: hoses, carb diaphragms, and fuel pump innards. Replace all fuel line hoses with ethanol tolerant hoses. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Thu, Jan 26, 2017 at 9:03 AM, Simon Lachlan < wrote: It seems that the UK is to be blessed with this stuff. I?ve been asked for my thoughts on the topic and, as I know nothing about it, I?m looking for advice. See attached. What are your experiences? And what are the ?dos and don?ts?? Thanks, Simon _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 12 Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 22:54:48 -0800 From: "John Spaur" To: , "'Oudesluys'" , "'Healeys, Forum'" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Wish I could get 93 octane let alone 95 or 98! John San Jose, CA From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of josef-eckert at t-online.de Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 10:07 PM To: Oudesluys ; Healeys, Forum Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol ?I have many friends who use E10 (95 Octane) in their classic cars without any problems. My Austin-Healeys need 98+ Octane,? Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 13 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 07:59:51 +0100 (MET) From: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" To: John Spaur , "Healeys, Forum" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Message-ID: <1485500391228.6130407.3568cfdf787e44368a8b41d97a311d79d249f1fa at spica.telekom.de> John, as far as I know 95 grade "European Octane" is comparable with 91 grade "American Octane". Don?t know the reason for that, as I never went into it further. I.E. Afgas for plane engines is about 103 Octane Europe. Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: RE: [Healeys] Ethanol Datum: 2017-01-27T07:54:53+0100 Von: "John Spaur" An: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" , "'Oudesluys'" , "'Healeys, Forum'" Wish I could get 93 octane let alone 95 or 98! John San Jose, CA From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of josef-eckert at t-online.de Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 10:07 PM To: Oudesluys ; Healeys, Forum Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol ?I have many friends who use E10 (95 Octane) in their classic cars without any problems. My Austin-Healeys need 98+ Octane,? Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 14 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 07:58:38 +0000 From: Derek Job To: Jim Lyons Cc: Forum Subject: Re: [Healeys] DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? Message-ID: AH Spares sell the leather cloth by the metre. Derek On Fri, Jan 27, 2017 at 1:23 AM, Jim Lyons wrote: > Hello All, > I am looking to replace or repair the DASH TOP on my 1966 BJ8. I?m looking > for recommendations for vendors who can supply the material that is > closest to the original vinyl ?leathercloth?. > I see that MOSS does offer a DASH TOP, PADDED, BLACK ( pt # 633-850 ) for > $203. Does anyone sell a kit with just the material ? > > Thanks, > Jim > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 15 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 10:44:27 +0100 From: Oudesluys To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol In Europe there was often a substantial amount of ethanol in post war petrol wel into the '60's. Petrol was not of the best quality and ethanol was used as an octane booster. Not many problems at the time. Kees Oudesluijs Op 26-1-2017 om 21:20 schreef Michael Salter: > /I doubt many if any cars in UK are E85 compliant. All fuel lines > made prior to 1995 in US were NOT ethanol ready and will fall apart > readily. > > /Hi Randy, > Your note has raised a very interesting question. > Have you had any experience with original Petroflex hoses failing due > to ethanol? > We have been subjected to ethanol for many years now and I cannot > recall even one incidence of a Petroflex failure that I could > attribute to it. > My own 100 has an original > ? NOS? > Smiths Petroflex hose joining the main fuel line to the carb fuel pipe > and although it has only been on the road for 2 years since > restoration I have not seen any signs of failure and the hose is still > very flexible. > ?I do know that if you subject a Petroflex hose to "Varsol" ?cleaning > fluid it deteriorates rapidly and that should definitely be avoided at > all costs. > Would appreciate your thoughts. > > Michael S > > > > > > /?/ > ? > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 16 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 13:25:03 +0100 From: Oudesluys To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Op 26-1-2017 om 23:59 schreef Oudesluys: > It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have > presumably used E85 for years Should of course be E95 Kees Oudesluijs ------------------------------ Message: 17 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 08:33:12 -0500 From: Bob Haskell To: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" , John Spaur , "Healeys, Forum" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol John and Josef, There are two methods for measuring octane rating - motoring and research. The average of the two is used in the US. The higher research octane number is used in Europe. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 01/27/2017 01:59 AM, josef-eckert at t-online.de wrote: > John, > > as far as I know 95 grade "European Octane" is comparable with 91 grade > "American Octane". Don?t know the reason for that, as I never went into > it further. I.E. Afgas for plane engines is about 103 Octane Europe. > > Josef Eckert > > K?nigswinter/Germany > > -----Original-Nachricht----- > > Betreff: RE: [Healeys] Ethanol > > Datum: 2017-01-27T07:54:53+0100 > > Von: "John Spaur" > > An: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" , "'Oudesluys'" > , "'Healeys, Forum'" > > Wish I could get 93 octane let alone 95 or 98! > > John > > San Jose, CA > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *josef-eckert at t-online.de > *Sent:* Thursday, January 26, 2017 10:07 PM > *To:* Oudesluys ; Healeys, Forum > > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > > ?I have many friends who use E10 (95 Octane) in their classic cars > without any problems. My Austin-Healeys need 98+ Octane,? > > Josef Eckert > > K?nigswinter/Germany > > ? > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > ------------------------------ Message: 18 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 06:05:03 -0800 From: i erbs To: Jim Lyons Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? Message-ID: Mods sells material by the yard Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes Portland,OR On Jan 26, 2017 6:52 PM, "Jim Lyons" wrote: > Hello All, > I am looking to replace or repair the DASH TOP on my 1966 BJ8. I?m looking > for recommendations for vendors who can supply the material that is > closest to the original vinyl ?leathercloth?. > I see that MOSS does offer a DASH TOP, PADDED, BLACK ( pt # 633-850 ) for > $203. Does anyone sell a kit with just the material ? > > Thanks, > Jim > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 19 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 14:14:30 +0000 (UTC) From: Bob Spidell To: Michael Salter Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Message-ID: <1341990277.104838709.1485526470549.JavaMail.zimbra at comcast.net> My BJ8 has had a Petroflex line in it for 100K+ miles and 25+ years and hasn't had a problem. It does feel a little stiff and since I'm doing an overhaul I've bought a replacement (watch it crap out in 3 months ;). Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Salter" To: "Randy Alkins" , "healeys" Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 12:20:56 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol I doubt many if any cars in UK are E85 compliant. All fuel lines made prior to 1995 in US were NOT ethanol ready and will fall apart readily. Hi Randy, Your note has raised a very interesting question. Have you had any experience with original Petroflex hoses failing due to ethanol? We have been subjected to ethanol for many years now and I cannot recall even one incidence of a Petroflex failure that I could attribute to it. My own 100 has an original ? NOS? Smiths Petroflex hose joining the main fuel line to the carb fuel pipe and although it has only been on the road for 2 years since restoration I have not seen any signs of failure and the hose is still very flexible. ?I do know that if you subject a Petroflex hose to "Varsol" ?cleaning fluid it deteriorates rapidly and that should definitely be avoided at all costs. Would appreciate your thoughts. Michael S ? ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 20 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 14:20:02 +0000 (UTC) From: Bob Spidell To: "Richard J. Hockert" Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Message-ID: <528184118.104844061.1485526802079.JavaMail.zimbra at comcast.net> Ethanol has a much lower energy content than gasoline, hence the lower mileage with gasahol. See here: http://www.afdc.energy.gov/fuels/fuel_comparison_chart.pdf ('alternate fuels,' not 'alternate facts') It does, however, have a higher octane rating allowing the huge compression ratios in dragsters and other racers; which is what produces the massive power in those engines. Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard J. Hockert" To: "David Nock BCS" , "Simon Lachlan" , "Healey List" Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 1:36:42 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol The correct AFR for alcohol (ethanol) is around 8 to 1 versus gasoline at 14.7 to 1. Switching to 10% ethanol should equate to about a 5% richer mixture. Ethanol produces more power than gasoline ? hence alcohol race engines but much more fuel required. Your mileage will suffer. Best regards, Jim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 21 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 15:36:53 +0000 (UTC) From: Bob Spidell To: John Spaur Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Message-ID: <1823390093.104910346.1485531413259.JavaMail.zimbra at comcast.net> I believe the European octane ratings are Research Method only, which reads 3-5 points higher than US (R+M)/2. So, European 98 octane would be equivalent to US 93 octane (rare, but available in some areas in the States; 100-octane is available for boat engines around Havasu). Contrary to popular belief, ethanol can actually raise octane. There's a gas station in Los Altos that used to sell 95-octane, which was E10 IIRC. It's very difficult to raise the octane rating of pure gas--it requires special refining--that's why TEL was added starting around WWII for high-compression fighter engines (it was 'discovered' at the Sloan-Kettering institute, who tested several thousand compounds before settling on TEL). Adding ethanol to gasoline means the gas part doesn't have to be as carefully refined (hence 'cheaper'). There is an exhaustive research program being undertaken in order to develop an aviation fuel to replace 100LL--100-octane, 'low-lead,' which I believe is 'only' 2 grams/gallon of elemental lead vs. 3 grams/gallon of previous formulations--and it is proceeding very slowly due to its complexity. I've run tanks of E10 and tanks of pure gas, and didn't notice any significant variance in mileage, but it's usually an 'oranges-to-apples' comparison since most runs involve a mix of highway/freeway and grades, stop-and-go, etc. ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Spaur" To: josef-eckert at t-online.de, "Oudesluys" , "Forum' 'Healeys" Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 10:54:48 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Wish I could get 93 octane let alone 95 or 98! John San Jose, CA -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 22 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 15:43:12 +0000 (UTC) From: Bob Spidell To: Oudesluys Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Message-ID: <532867142.104914937.1485531792988.JavaMail.zimbra at comcast.net> OK, now I be confused. In the States, E10 is 10% ethanol, E85 is 85% ethanol, so E95 would be 95% ethanol. Is that correct? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Oudesluys" To: "healeys" Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 4:25:03 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Op 26-1-2017 om 23:59 schreef Oudesluys: > It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have > presumably used E85 for years Should of course be E95 Kees Oudesluijs -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 23 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 11:04:04 -0500 From: Wayne To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BJ-8 rear end housing Hello, My rear end housing is bent and I may need a replacement. I would be interested in a complete assembly or just the housing itself. I discovered the problem when I had difficulty removing the rear axles, and once they are out they bind on the hub studs preventing reassembly. I will pull the differential today and install the axles to see how bad the misalignment is. I am located in CT. Wayne ------------------------------ Message: 24 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 12:04:54 -0500 From: randyalkins To: Bob Spidell , Oudesluys Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Have not heard of 95. There is talk of e15 which will be bad for all. 10 was bad. And some warranties will be denied by engine maufacturers if it goes to 15 Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device-------- Original message --------From: Bob Spidell Date: 1/27/2017 10:43 AM (GMT-05:00) To: Oudesluys Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol OK, now I be confused.? In the States, E10 is 10% ethanol, E85 is 85% ethanol, so E95 would be 95% ethanol.? Is that correct? From: "Oudesluys" To: "healeys" Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 4:25:03 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Op 26-1-2017 om 23:59 schreef Oudesluys: > It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have > presumably used E85 for years Should of course be E95 Kees Oudesluijs -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 25 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 10:54:38 -0800 From: "David Nock" To: "Bob Spidell" , "Oudesluys" Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Check out this report/ road test of a comparison of E85 to Gas. https://www.edmunds.com/fuel-economy/e85-vs-gasoline-comparison-test.html Here at the shop we have been dealing with this problem for a long time with a lot of cars. And found the same problems with all of them, some worse than others. Overheating due the removal of the gas and addition of the Ethanol. The Ethanol burns hotter which reduces emissions. This causes older cars to run hotter. Lower gas mileage and lower performance Miss fires and Lack of power due to the leaner mixture. The is especially worse on a Tri Carb Healey, the rear carb will lean out on a long hard run at a steady hight rpm. Also Ethanol has a very strong cleaning ability, So if you start using Ethanol in a older gas tank or a tank that has been sitting for while that has a lot of varnish build up. The Ethanol will go about its cleaning ability and clean up all that varnish in the tank and deposit it in the carburettors. I know that there are lots of those out there that have all the techy stuff. But I go by what I have learned by over 40 year of working on all British cars and lots of them. The bottom line with 10 % Ethanol your Vintage car will run hotter, get worse fuel economy and may experience miss fires under heavy acceleration. David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 209 948 8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: Bob Spidell Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 7:43 AM To: Oudesluys Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol OK, now I be confused. In the States, E10 is 10% ethanol, E85 is 85% ethanol, so E95 would be 95% ethanol. Is that correct? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Oudesluys" To: "healeys" Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 4:25:03 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Op 26-1-2017 om 23:59 schreef Oudesluys: > It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have > presumably used E85 for years Should of course be E95 Kees Oudesluijs -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ Healeys mailing list Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys ------------------------------ End of Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 33 *************************************** -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Jan 27 20:42:52 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 19:42:52 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 soft brake pedal References: could be a leaking booster check valve. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Fri, Jan 27, 2017 at 3:07 PM, John and Judy Carter wrote: > After bleeding brakes and car sits for a time the brake pedal is soft > again. You can pump it up to a firm pedal but it is soft again at the next > application. This occurs whether you are driving the car or not > > (brake booster is fairly new). I cannot find any leaks and the reservoir > stays full(silicone fluid). > > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys on behalf of > healeys-request at autox.team.net > *Sent:* Friday, January 27, 2017 2:00 PM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 33 > > Send Healeys mailing list submissions to > healeys at autox.team.net > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net > > autox.team.net > To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys > Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send > email ... > > > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > healeys-request at autox.team.net > > You can reach the person managing the list at > healeys-owner at autox.team.net > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: Ethanol (i erbs) > 2. Re: Ethanol (Michael Salter) > 3. Re: Ethanol (Richard J. Hockert) > 4. Re: Ethanol (Oudesluys) > 5. Re: Non Healey: Anyone looking for a project MG TD? > (Charlie Baldwin) > 6. DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? (Jim Lyons) > 7. Re: Ethanol (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) > 8. Re: Ethanol (Mirek Sharp) > 9. Re: DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? (Jean Caron) > 10. Re: Ethanol (Richard Collins) > 11. Re: Ethanol (josef-eckert at t-online.de) > 12. Re: Ethanol (John Spaur) > 13. Re: Ethanol (josef-eckert at t-online.de) > 14. Re: DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? (Derek Job) > 15. Re: Ethanol (Oudesluys) > 16. Re: Ethanol (Oudesluys) > 17. Re: Ethanol (Bob Haskell) > 18. Re: DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? (i erbs) > 19. Re: Ethanol (Bob Spidell) > 20. Re: Ethanol (Bob Spidell) > 21. Re: Ethanol (Bob Spidell) > 22. Re: Ethanol (Bob Spidell) > 23. BJ-8 rear end housing (Wayne) > 24. Re: Ethanol (randyalkins) > 25. Re: Ethanol (David Nock) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 11:06:15 -0800 > From: i erbs > To: Simon Lachlan > Cc: Healey List > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > Message-ID: > gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > eats rubber parts: hoses, carb diaphragms, and fuel pump innards. Replace > all fuel line hoses with ethanol tolerant hoses. > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > On Thu, Jan 26, 2017 at 9:03 AM, Simon Lachlan < > simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk > > wrote: > > > It seems that the UK is to be blessed with this stuff. I?ve been asked > for > > my thoughts on the topic and, as I know nothing about it, I?m looking for > > advice. > > > > See attached. > > > > What are your experiences? And what are the ?dos and don?ts?? > > > > Thanks, > > > > Simon > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > www.team.net > www.team.net > The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time > volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network > connection, name ... > > > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Mail Archives - Team.Net > www.team.net > Team.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest > updated. > > > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net > > autox.team.net > To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys > Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send > email ... > > > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170126/5d456206/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 15:20:56 -0500 > From: Michael Salter > To: Randy Alkins , "healeys at autox.team.net" > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > Message-ID: > gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > *I doubt many if any cars in UK are E85 compliant. All fuel lines made > prior to 1995 in US were NOT ethanol ready and will fall apart readily.*Hi > Randy, > Your note has raised a very interesting question. > Have you had any experience with original Petroflex hoses failing due to > ethanol? > We have been subjected to ethanol for many years now and I cannot recall > even one incidence of a Petroflex failure that I could attribute to it. > My own 100 has an original > ? NOS? > Smiths Petroflex hose joining the main fuel line to the carb fuel pipe and > although it has only been on the road for 2 years since restoration I have > not seen any signs of failure and the hose is still very flexible. > ?I do know that if you subject a Petroflex hose to "Varsol" ?cleaning fluid > it deteriorates rapidly and that should definitely be avoided at all costs. > Would appreciate your thoughts. > > Michael S > > > > > > *?* > ? > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170126/91437072/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 3 > Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 15:36:42 -0600 > From: "Richard J. Hockert" > To: "'David Nock BCS'" , "'Simon Lachlan'" > , "'Healey List'" > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > Message-ID: <067501d2781c$4a0d2ac0$de278040$@att.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > The correct AFR for alcohol (ethanol) is around 8 to 1 versus gasoline at > 14.7 to 1. Switching to 10% ethanol should equate to about a 5% richer > mixture. Ethanol produces more power than gasoline ? hence alcohol race > engines but much more fuel required. Your mileage will suffer. > > > > Best regards, > > Jim > > > > > > > > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > ] On Behalf Of David Nock BCS > Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 12:49 PM > To: Simon Lachlan; 'Healey List' > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > > > > The issues with the Ethanol will depend on the percentage of Ethanol they > will be putting in. Here in California most of the Ethanol is 10%. However > they are talking about raising that and if they do we will start having > real problems. > > The most common issues we run into are . Overheating and miss fires under > heavy load due to lean mixtures. Especially worse on the Tri Carb. > > This can usually be cured by installing the Rich needles. > > > > The other issues are lack of power and lower gas mileage. > > > > > > David Nock > British Car Specialists > 209-948-8767 <(209)%20948-8767> > www.britishcarspecialists.com > > > > > > > Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 9:03 AM > > > > Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol > > > > It seems that the UK is to be blessed with this stuff. I?ve been asked for > my thoughts on the topic and, as I know nothing about it, I?m looking for > advice. > > See attached. > > What are your experiences? And what are the ?dos and don?ts?? > > Thanks, > > Simon > > _____ > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170126/c1c43d2c/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 4 > Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 23:59:22 +0100 > From: Oudesluys > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"; Format="flowed" > > It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have presumably > used E85 for years. This usually contains about 5% ethanol, sometimes > considerably more. So you have already changed most if not all rubber > parts with modern items that are ethanol resistant. If you still have > original rubber parts e.g. hoses, replace them. It is unbelievable that > some people still have original fuel hoses, brake hoses etc. fitted. > They should have been replaced a very long time ago. Very risky. > There are claims it can corrode aluminium alloy parts in the carbs and > fuel pump, but I still have to see proper physical evidence of this. > Pumps and carbs that have been exposed to ethanol containing petrol for > donkeys years are mostly still absolutely clean. If the petrol is > contaminated with water or if the carbs/pumps have been dry for years > you may see some sediment or corrosion, but this is rare. > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > Op 26-1-2017 om 20:06 schreef i erbs: > > eats rubber parts: hoses, carb diaphragms, and fuel pump innards. > > Replace all fuel line hoses with ethanol tolerant hoses. > > > > Ira Erbs > > Portland,OR > > _______ _______ > > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > > (_________________________) > > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > > > On Thu, Jan 26, 2017 at 9:03 AM, Simon Lachlan > >> > > wrote: > > > > It seems that the UK is to be blessed with this stuff. I?ve been > > asked for my thoughts on the topic and, as I know nothing about > > it, I?m looking for advice. > > > > See attached. > > > > What are your experiences? And what are the ?dos and don?ts?? > > > > Thanks, > > > > Simon > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170126/216a2c1a/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 5 > Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 20:03:33 -0500 > From: Charlie Baldwin > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Non Healey: Anyone looking for a project MG TD? > Message-ID: <00a3b404-696a-0669-5c5e-ac344f7d32a0 at comcast.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"; Format="flowed" > > Way too much money. It would be a worthwhile investment at half that. > > > On 1/26/2017 1:12 PM, mike brouillette wrote: > > > > Just saw this on Ebay. If anyone is looking for a 1950 MG TD project, > > this could be a good start with a buy it now at $7500. > > > > No interest? > > > > http://www.ebay.com/itm/272532817015? > > > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > ] *On Behalf Of > > *i erbs > > *Sent:* Thursday, January 26, 2017 12:54 PM > > *To:* Ahealey help > > *Subject:* [Healeys] Home built GTO Tribute > > > > https://youtu.be/hzNQUPR73Hw > > > > Guy built himself a fararri GTO... Hard to imagine what the bits he > > had to buy cost > > > > Ira Erbs > > > > Portland,OR > > > > _______ _______ > > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > > (_________________________) > > > > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > > > > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170126/ffcbd0eb/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 6 > Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 20:23:27 -0500 > From: "Jim Lyons" > To: > Subject: [Healeys] DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? > Message-ID: <991F0077598D4A26A05A4684E2A4391D at LyonsAsusS550C> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Hello All, > I am looking to replace or repair the DASH TOP on my 1966 BJ8. I?m looking > for recommendations for vendors who can supply the material that is > closest to the original vinyl ?leathercloth?. > I see that MOSS does offer a DASH TOP, PADDED, BLACK ( pt # 633-850 ) for > $203. Does anyone sell a kit with just the material ? > > Thanks, > Jim > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170126/6470153a/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 7 > Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 17:43:41 -0800 > From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=" > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > Message-ID: <20170127014342.1102.qmail at hoster902.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > > IMO: > Ethanol is a boondoggle for farmers. It takes more energy to produce than > it saves. > > -- > Steve Gerow > Altadena, CA > BN6 > Maker of most complete Big Healey rear disc kit > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 8 > Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 21:10:29 -0500 > From: "Mirek Sharp" > To: "'Simon Lachlan'" , "'Healey List'" > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > Message-ID: <008301d27842$88539780$98fac680$@sympatico.ca> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Simon, we have been subjected to ethanol for some years here in Canada and > confess I did absolutely nothing to my '59 BT7 to adjust to it. I rebuilt > the carbs 3 years ago, but prior to that, they had whatever parts I fitted > when I previously serviced them, probably 15-20 years ago. I don't thrash > the car, and driving normally I noticed no difference in power, and since > it > is not my regular driver for work etc., I have never bothered much about > fuel consumption (would it influence how much drive it?- No!). I can't > even recall when I last serviced the fuel pump, it must be at least 25 -30 > years ago, perhaps not since I put a new one in around 1975, just after I > bought the car. I expect it would affect timing but I always fine-adjust > this with the Vernier on the distributor after static setting per usual > practice and I get no pinging. Being in Canada, the car is not driven > during the salt season from around late November to late March(-ish). I > don't top up or drain the tank, or add any fuel stabilizers, and it starts > up and runs just fine in the spring (except for needing a boost some > years). > > > > My advice is just drive it, and if something breaks, THEN fix it. > > > > To be clear, I not saying the ethanol has no effect, it plays havoc with > the > carburation on my vintage motorcycles, which are air-cooled and much less > forgiving when burn-rate and combustion temperature are changed with the > ethanol. I just think the Healeys, the 3000s at least, can cope with the > changes more easily. The only other big effect I noticed is that it is > attacking the lining I put in one of my BSA fuel tanks, and I will have to > clean that out soon before completely breaks down (the solvent is > methyl-ethyl ketone - I can't wait!). > > Good luck with it, > > Mirek > > > > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > ] On Behalf Of Simon > Lachlan > Sent: January-26-17 12:04 PM > To: 'Healey List' > Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol > > > > It seems that the UK is to be blessed with this stuff. I've been asked for > my thoughts on the topic and, as I know nothing about it, I'm looking for > advice. > > See attached. > > What are your experiences? And what are the "dos and don'ts"? > > Thanks, > > Simon > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170126/ef4e8b21/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 9 > Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 04:12:33 +0000 > From: Jean Caron > To: Jim Lyons , "Healeys at autox.team.net" > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? > Message-ID: > namprd19.prod.outlook.com> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > > Jim, > > John Skinner in the UK sells it, good to deal with , reasonably priced. I > am sure there are others too in the US. > > www.john.skinner.co.uk > > > Jean > > ________________________________ > From: Healeys on behalf of Jim Lyons < > jlyons4 at rochester.rr.com> > Sent: January 27, 2017 1:23 AM > To: Healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? > > Hello All, > I am looking to replace or repair the DASH TOP on my 1966 BJ8. I'm looking > for recommendations for vendors who can supply the material that is > closest to the original vinyl "leathercloth". > I see that MOSS does offer a DASH TOP, PADDED, BLACK ( pt # 633-850 ) for > $203. Does anyone sell a kit with just the material ? > > Thanks, > Jim > > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170127/47adbd90/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 10 > Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 05:06:02 +0000 > From: Richard Collins > To: "Steve B. Gerow" > Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > Message-ID: > namprd19.prod.outlook.com> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > I get a solid 12% LESS miles on Calif 91 octane (highest available) than I > do here in KY with 93 octane (highest available) But I am seeing more 10% > Ethanol fuel in KY than in previous years. But we have many ethanol free > offerings in the area. > Had to change fuel line on Healey recently when it began leaking from > splits/disintegration. I smelled it before I found it. Nearly a fire risk. > > Regards, > Richard Of KY > BN7 #440 > > > > On Jan 26, 2017, at 9:26 PM, Steve B. Gerow > wrote: > > > > IMO: > > Ethanol is a boondoggle for farmers. It takes more energy to produce > than it saves. > > > > -- > > Steve Gerow > > Altadena, CA > > BN6 > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 11 > Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 07:07:02 +0100 (MET) > From: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" > To: Oudesluys , "Healeys, Forum" > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > Message-ID: > <1485497222007.6248468.9f7d93919ffb3ba7849f922f045ff0 > 6a5fb1a9ee at spica.telekom.de> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Here in Europe most Austin-Healeys (95%+) were completely restored with > new > parts, lines, hoses, fitted. I only know one or two cars out of 100 which > only got a tidying up since they were built. So extremely rare. > I have many friends who use E10 (95 Octane) in their classic cars without > any problems. My Austin-Healeys need 98+ Octane, so I stay with the > premium > fuels from Shell (V-Power (101 Octane), or ARAL Ultimate (103 Octane). > These premium fuels, or the Super Plus (98 Octane) contain below 5% > Ethanol. So I haven?t faced any problems. > I would have some problems using E10 (95 Octane), as it would cause > after-run of the engines, which are eliminated with higher octane fuels. > > Josef Eckert > K?nigswinter/Germany > > > > > -----Original-Nachricht----- > Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > Datum: 2017-01-27T02:15:07+0100 > Von: "Oudesluys" > An: "healeys at autox.team.net" > > > > It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have presumably > used E85 for years. This usually contains about 5% ethanol, sometimes > considerably more. So you have already changed most if not all rubber > parts > with modern items that are ethanol resistant. If you still have original > rubber parts e.g. hoses, replace them. It is unbelievable that some people > still have original fuel hoses, brake hoses etc. fitted. They should have > been replaced a very long time ago. Very risky. > There are claims it can corrode aluminium alloy parts in the carbs and > fuel > pump, but I still have to see proper physical evidence of this. Pumps and > carbs that have been exposed to ethanol containing petrol for donkeys > years > are mostly still absolutely clean. If the petrol is contaminated with > water > or if the carbs/pumps have been dry for years you may see some sediment or > corrosion, but this is rare. > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > Op 26-1-2017 om 20:06 schreef i erbs: > > eats rubber parts: hoses, carb diaphragms, and fuel pump innards. > Replace all fuel line hoses with ethanol tolerant hoses. > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > On Thu, Jan 26, 2017 at 9:03 AM, Simon Lachlan < > > > > wrote: > > It seems that the UK is to be blessed with this stuff. I?ve been > asked for my thoughts on the topic and, as I know nothing about it, > I?m looking for advice. > > See attached. > > What are your experiences? And what are the ?dos and don?ts?? > > Thanks, > > Simon > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net > http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > > ? > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170127/5f4f1be9/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 12 > Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 22:54:48 -0800 > From: "John Spaur" > To: , "'Oudesluys'" , > "'Healeys, Forum'" > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > Message-ID: <000501d2786a$4174dd10$c45e9730$@sbcglobal.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Wish I could get 93 octane let alone 95 or 98! > > > > John > > San Jose, CA > > > > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > ] On Behalf Of josef-eckert at t-online.de > Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 10:07 PM > To: Oudesluys ; Healeys, Forum < > Healeys at autox.team.net> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > > > > ?I have many friends who use E10 (95 Octane) in their classic cars without > any problems. My Austin-Healeys need 98+ Octane,? > > Josef Eckert > > K?nigswinter/Germany > > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170126/1fbfb00d/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 13 > Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 07:59:51 +0100 (MET) > From: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" > To: John Spaur , "Healeys, Forum" > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > Message-ID: > <1485500391228.6130407.3568cfdf787e44368a8b41d97a311d > 79d249f1fa at spica.telekom.de> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > John, > as far as I know 95 grade "European Octane" is comparable with 91 grade > "American Octane". Don?t know the reason for that, as I never went into it > further. I.E. Afgas for plane engines is about 103 Octane Europe. > > Josef Eckert > K?nigswinter/Germany > > > > -----Original-Nachricht----- > Betreff: RE: [Healeys] Ethanol > Datum: 2017-01-27T07:54:53+0100 > Von: "John Spaur" > An: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" , "'Oudesluys'" > , "'Healeys, Forum'" > > > > > Wish I could get 93 octane let alone 95 or 98! > > > > John > > San Jose, CA > > > > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > ] On Behalf Of > josef-eckert at t-online.de > Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 10:07 PM > To: Oudesluys ; Healeys, Forum > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > > > > ?I have many friends who use E10 (95 Octane) in their classic cars without > any problems. My Austin-Healeys need 98+ Octane,? > Josef Eckert > K?nigswinter/Germany > > > > ? > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170127/56b1edd3/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 14 > Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 07:58:38 +0000 > From: Derek Job > To: Jim Lyons > Cc: Forum > Subject: Re: [Healeys] DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? > Message-ID: > i6JMseY8eYbQ at mail.gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > AH Spares sell the leather cloth by the metre. > > Derek > > On Fri, Jan 27, 2017 at 1:23 AM, Jim Lyons > wrote: > > > Hello All, > > I am looking to replace or repair the DASH TOP on my 1966 BJ8. I?m > looking > > for recommendations for vendors who can supply the material that is > > closest to the original vinyl ?leathercloth?. > > I see that MOSS does offer a DASH TOP, PADDED, BLACK ( pt # 633-850 ) for > > $203. Does anyone sell a kit with just the material ? > > > > Thanks, > > Jim > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > > options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170127/8081e3bc/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 15 > Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 10:44:27 +0100 > From: Oudesluys > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > Message-ID: <215cd39a-46ab-cd17-b90c-9c5dd1c15eb7 at chello.nl> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed" > > In Europe there was often a substantial amount of ethanol in post war > petrol wel into the '60's. Petrol was not of the best quality and > ethanol was used as an octane booster. Not many problems at the time. > Kees Oudesluijs > > Op 26-1-2017 om 21:20 schreef Michael Salter: > > /I doubt many if any cars in UK are E85 compliant. All fuel lines > > made prior to 1995 in US were NOT ethanol ready and will fall apart > > readily. > > > > /Hi Randy, > > Your note has raised a very interesting question. > > Have you had any experience with original Petroflex hoses failing due > > to ethanol? > > We have been subjected to ethanol for many years now and I cannot > > recall even one incidence of a Petroflex failure that I could > > attribute to it. > > My own 100 has an original > > ? NOS? > > Smiths Petroflex hose joining the main fuel line to the carb fuel pipe > > and although it has only been on the road for 2 years since > > restoration I have not seen any signs of failure and the hose is still > > very flexible. > > ?I do know that if you subject a Petroflex hose to "Varsol" ?cleaning > > fluid it deteriorates rapidly and that should definitely be avoided at > > all costs. > > Would appreciate your thoughts. > > > > Michael S > > > > > > > > > > > > /?/ > > ? > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170127/1370aa43/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 16 > Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 13:25:03 +0100 > From: Oudesluys > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > Message-ID: <1b7feb54-9c7f-8d7e-03d8-7d628186c316 at chello.nl> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed > > Op 26-1-2017 om 23:59 schreef Oudesluys: > > It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have > > presumably used E85 for years > > Should of course be E95 > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 17 > Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 08:33:12 -0500 > From: Bob Haskell > To: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" , John Spaur > , "Healeys, Forum" > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > Message-ID: <588B4C18.8090907 at earthlink.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed > > John and Josef, > > There are two methods for measuring octane rating - motoring and > research. The average of the two is used in the US. The higher > research octane number is used in Europe. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > > On 01/27/2017 01:59 AM, josef-eckert at t-online.de wrote: > > John, > > > > as far as I know 95 grade "European Octane" is comparable with 91 grade > > "American Octane". Don?t know the reason for that, as I never went into > > it further. I.E. Afgas for plane engines is about 103 Octane Europe. > > > > Josef Eckert > > > > K?nigswinter/Germany > > > > -----Original-Nachricht----- > > > > Betreff: RE: [Healeys] Ethanol > > > > Datum: 2017-01-27T07:54:53+0100 > > > > Von: "John Spaur" > > > > An: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" , "'Oudesluys'" > > , "'Healeys, Forum'" > > > > Wish I could get 93 octane let alone 95 or 98! > > > > John > > > > San Jose, CA > > > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > ] *On Behalf Of > > *josef-eckert at t-online.de > > *Sent:* Thursday, January 26, 2017 10:07 PM > > *To:* Oudesluys ; Healeys, Forum > > > > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > > > > ?I have many friends who use E10 (95 Octane) in their classic cars > > without any problems. My Austin-Healeys need 98+ Octane,? > > > > Josef Eckert > > > > K?nigswinter/Germany > > > > ? > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 18 > Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 06:05:03 -0800 > From: i erbs > To: Jim Lyons > Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? > Message-ID: > taMZGTL4goQ at mail.gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Mods sells material by the yard > > Ira Erbs > 1959 100-6 > MKI engine and disc brakes > Portland,OR > > On Jan 26, 2017 6:52 PM, "Jim Lyons" wrote: > > > Hello All, > > I am looking to replace or repair the DASH TOP on my 1966 BJ8. I?m > looking > > for recommendations for vendors who can supply the material that is > > closest to the original vinyl ?leathercloth?. > > I see that MOSS does offer a DASH TOP, PADDED, BLACK ( pt # 633-850 ) for > > $203. Does anyone sell a kit with just the material ? > > > > Thanks, > > Jim > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170127/2567b9af/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 19 > Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 14:14:30 +0000 (UTC) > From: Bob Spidell > To: Michael Salter > Cc: healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > Message-ID: > <1341990277.104838709.1485526470549.JavaMail.zimbra at comcast.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > My BJ8 has had a Petroflex line in it for 100K+ miles and 25+ years and > hasn't had a problem. It does feel a little stiff and since I'm doing an > overhaul I've bought a replacement (watch it crap out in 3 months ;). > > Bob > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Michael Salter" > To: "Randy Alkins" , "healeys" < > healeys at autox.team.net> > Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 12:20:56 PM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > > I doubt many if any cars in UK are E85 compliant. All fuel lines made > prior to 1995 in US were NOT ethanol ready and will fall apart readily. > > Hi Randy, > Your note has raised a very interesting question. > Have you had any experience with original Petroflex hoses failing due to > ethanol? > We have been subjected to ethanol for many years now and I cannot recall > even one incidence of a Petroflex failure that I could attribute to it. > My own 100 has an original > ? NOS? > Smiths Petroflex hose joining the main fuel line to the carb fuel pipe and > although it has only been on the road for 2 years since restoration I have > not seen any signs of failure and the hose is still very flexible. > ?I do know that if you subject a Petroflex hose to "Varsol" ?cleaning > fluid it deteriorates rapidly and that should definitely be avoided at all > costs. > Would appreciate your thoughts. > > Michael S > > > > > > ? > ? > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170127/b75101f1/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 20 > Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 14:20:02 +0000 (UTC) > From: Bob Spidell > To: "Richard J. Hockert" > Cc: healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > Message-ID: > <528184118.104844061.1485526802079.JavaMail.zimbra at comcast.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Ethanol has a much lower energy content than gasoline, hence the lower > mileage with gasahol. See here: > > http://www.afdc.energy.gov/fuels/fuel_comparison_chart.pdf > > ('alternate fuels,' not 'alternate facts') > > It does, however, have a higher octane rating allowing the huge > compression ratios in dragsters and other racers; which is what produces > the massive power in those engines. > > Bob > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Richard J. Hockert" > To: "David Nock BCS" , "Simon Lachlan" < > simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk>, "Healey List" > Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 1:36:42 PM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > > > > The correct AFR for alcohol (ethanol) is around 8 to 1 versus gasoline at > 14.7 to 1. Switching to 10% ethanol should equate to about a 5% richer > mixture. Ethanol produces more power than gasoline ? hence alcohol race > engines but much more fuel required. Your mileage will suffer. > > > > Best regards, > > Jim > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170127/a50e74f5/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 21 > Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 15:36:53 +0000 (UTC) > From: Bob Spidell > To: John Spaur > Cc: healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > Message-ID: > <1823390093.104910346.1485531413259.JavaMail.zimbra at comcast.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > I believe the European octane ratings are Research Method only, which > reads 3-5 points higher than US (R+M)/2. So, European 98 octane would be > equivalent to US 93 octane (rare, but available in some areas in the > States; 100-octane is available for boat engines around Havasu). > > Contrary to popular belief, ethanol can actually raise octane. There's a > gas station in Los Altos that used to sell 95-octane, which was E10 IIRC. > It's very difficult to raise the octane rating of pure gas--it requires > special refining--that's why TEL was added starting around WWII for > high-compression fighter engines (it was 'discovered' at the > Sloan-Kettering institute, who tested several thousand compounds before > settling on TEL). Adding ethanol to gasoline means the gas part doesn't > have to be as carefully refined (hence 'cheaper'). There is an exhaustive > research program being undertaken in order to develop an aviation fuel to > replace 100LL--100-octane, 'low-lead,' which I believe is 'only' 2 > grams/gallon of elemental lead vs. 3 grams/gallon of previous > formulations--and it is proceeding very slowly due to its complexity. > > I've run tanks of E10 and tanks of pure gas, and didn't notice any > significant variance in mileage, but it's usually an 'oranges-to-apples' > comparison since most runs involve a mix of highway/freeway and grades, > stop-and-go, etc. > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "John Spaur" > To: josef-eckert at t-online.de, "Oudesluys" , > "Forum' 'Healeys" > Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 10:54:48 PM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > > > > Wish I could get 93 octane let alone 95 or 98! > > > > John > > San Jose, CA > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170127/3ec75ee9/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 22 > Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 15:43:12 +0000 (UTC) > From: Bob Spidell > To: Oudesluys > Cc: healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > Message-ID: > <532867142.104914937.1485531792988.JavaMail.zimbra at comcast.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > OK, now I be confused. In the States, E10 is 10% ethanol, E85 is 85% > ethanol, so E95 would be 95% ethanol. Is that correct? > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Oudesluys" > To: "healeys" > Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 4:25:03 AM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > > Op 26-1-2017 om 23:59 schreef Oudesluys: > > It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have > > presumably used E85 for years > > Should of course be E95 > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170127/7911e009/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 23 > Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 11:04:04 -0500 > From: Wayne > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] BJ-8 rear end housing > Message-ID: <1dff32ad-33b5-ae3f-0ac8-7d6b58b55f27 at gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed > > Hello, > > My rear end housing is bent and I may need a replacement. I > would be interested in a complete assembly or just the housing itself. I > discovered the problem when I had difficulty removing the rear axles, > and once they are out they bind on the hub studs preventing reassembly. > I will pull the differential today and install the axles to see how bad > the misalignment is. I am located in CT. > > Wayne > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 24 > Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 12:04:54 -0500 > From: randyalkins > To: Bob Spidell , Oudesluys > > Cc: healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Have not heard of 95. There is talk of e15 which will be bad for all. 10 > was bad. And some warranties will be denied by engine maufacturers if it > goes to 15 > > > Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device-------- Original message --------From: > Bob Spidell Date: 1/27/2017 10:43 AM (GMT-05:00) > To: Oudesluys Cc: healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > OK, now I be confused.? In the States, E10 is 10% ethanol, E85 is 85% > ethanol, so E95 would be 95% ethanol.? Is that correct? > > From: "Oudesluys" > To: "healeys" > Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 4:25:03 AM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > > Op 26-1-2017 om 23:59 schreef Oudesluys: > > It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have > > presumably used E85 for years > > Should of course be E95 > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170127/c867a14d/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 25 > Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 10:54:38 -0800 > From: "David Nock" > To: "Bob Spidell" , "Oudesluys" > > Cc: healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > Message-ID: <70614CB856D04F639DA2776C946F5E6A at DavidNockHP> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Check out this report/ road test of a comparison of E85 to Gas. > > https://www.edmunds.com/fuel-economy/e85-vs-gasoline-comparison-test.html > > Here at the shop we have been dealing with this problem for a long time > with a lot of cars. And found the same problems with all of them, some > worse than others. > > Overheating due the removal of the gas and addition of the Ethanol. The > Ethanol burns hotter which reduces emissions. This causes older cars to run > hotter. > > Lower gas mileage and lower performance > > Miss fires and Lack of power due to the leaner mixture. The is especially > worse on a Tri Carb Healey, the rear carb will lean out on a long hard run > at a steady hight rpm. > > Also Ethanol has a very strong cleaning ability, So if you start using > Ethanol in a older gas tank or a tank that has been sitting for while that > has a lot of varnish build up. The Ethanol will go about its cleaning > ability and clean up all that varnish in the tank and deposit it in the > carburettors. > > I know that there are lots of those out there that have all the techy > stuff. But I go by what I have learned by over 40 year of working on all > British cars and lots of them. > > The bottom line with 10 % Ethanol your Vintage car will run hotter, get > worse fuel economy and may experience miss fires under heavy acceleration. > > > David Nock > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > 209 948 8767 <(209)%20948-8767> > www.britishcarspecialists.com > > From: Bob Spidell > Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 7:43 AM > To: Oudesluys > Cc: healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > > OK, now I be confused. In the States, E10 is 10% ethanol, E85 is 85% > ethanol, so E95 would be 95% ethanol. Is that correct? > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------ > -------------------- > > From: "Oudesluys" > To: "healeys" > Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 4:25:03 AM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > > > Op 26-1-2017 om 23:59 schreef Oudesluys: > > It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have > > presumably used E85 for years > > > Should of course be E95 > > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------ > -------------------- > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170127/83ff6ccb/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Subject: Digest Footer > > _______________________________________________ > Healeys mailing list > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > ------------------------------ > > End of Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 33 > *************************************** > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Fri Jan 27 20:47:50 2017 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 19:47:50 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?octane?= there are stations here in vegas that sell E85, which multi-fuel vehicles can use. i was told it is 15percent ethanol/85 gasoline. From cnaarndt at gmail.com Fri Jan 27 21:31:43 2017 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 20:31:43 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Correct Jack for a 54 BN1 References: Simon, There is a great Supplement in the Concours Guidelines that deals specifically with AH tool kits and all of the jacks for the 100s (there were four of them). Shameless Concours Guidelines plug! The new 2017 version just came out. The most common jack used in mid to late '54 was the *Shelley model LJ 23* dated *54* or 55. This is the jack in my Jan '55 BN1. I know of cars from around body no. 4000 (May-Jun 54) on that had this as their original jack. This jack was used through about Jul. '55 and was superseded by the King Dick B 1077 and then the Shelley LJ 21 jacks in '55 onward. Sorry, but I could not attach any photos. Cheers, Curt Arndt Chairman-Austin Healey Concours Registry On Fri, Jan 27, 2017 at 11:21 AM, Simon Griffin wrote: > For my MG TD I have a nice Shelley 6DL jack and set of handles. This > Jack looks very much like the King Dick Jack. What I am not sure about is > what is the correct Jack for the 100 in late 54? Was it a Shelley or a > King Dick or were they both used? > > > For the TD it could be either in 53 (mine was built July 53) and it would > have had a set of handles split in half that were turned with a 9 1/2 " > tommy bar. I have also seen handles with a larger hole and a wooden > handle to turn. Can anyone confirm what is correct for the 100? > > > Thanks > > Simon > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0304.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 114058 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0310.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 112008 bytes Desc: not available URL: From cnaarndt at gmail.com Fri Jan 27 21:32:18 2017 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 20:32:18 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Correct Jack for a 54 BN1 References: Simon, There is a great Supplement in the Concours Guidelines that deals specifically with AH tool kits and all of the jacks for the 100s (there were four of them). Shameless Concours Guidelines plug! The new 2017 version just came out. The most common jack used in mid to late '54 was the *Shelley model LJ 23* dated *54* or 55. This is the jack in my Jan '55 BN1. I know of cars from around body no. 4000 (May-Jun 54) on that had this as their original jack. This jack was used through about Jul. '55 and was superseded by the King Dick B 1077 and then the Shelley LJ 21 jacks in '55 onward. Cheers, Curt Arndt Chairman-Austin Healey Concours Registry [image: Inline image 1] On Fri, Jan 27, 2017 at 11:21 AM, Simon Griffin wrote: > For my MG TD I have a nice Shelley 6DL jack and set of handles. This > Jack looks very much like the King Dick Jack. What I am not sure about is > what is the correct Jack for the 100 in late 54? Was it a Shelley or a > King Dick or were they both used? > > > For the TD it could be either in 53 (mine was built July 53) and it would > have had a set of handles split in half that were turned with a 9 1/2 " > tommy bar. I have also seen handles with a larger hole and a wooden > handle to turn. Can anyone confirm what is correct for the 100? > > > Thanks > > Simon > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 1662857 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0304.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 114058 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0310.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 112008 bytes Desc: not available URL: From richard.ewald at gmail.com Fri Jan 27 21:52:11 2017 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 20:52:11 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] anyone looking for a project car? References: I am tempted to ask them just what kind of drugs they were using when they came up with 4K as a price point. I wonder if they meant $40.00 and misplaced the decimal. Rick On Fri, Jan 27, 2017 at 6:57 PM, i erbs wrote: > http://tinyurl.com/hm9y222 > Looks to me like you would be paying $4K for a vin #, but some people like > a challenge > > > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cnaarndt at gmail.com Fri Jan 27 21:58:14 2017 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 20:58:14 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] anyone looking for a project car? References: I guess we just found Larry Varley's next restoration project ;-^) On Fri, Jan 27, 2017 at 6:57 PM, i erbs wrote: > http://tinyurl.com/hm9y222 > Looks to me like you would be paying $4K for a vin #, but some people like > a challenge > > > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Fri Jan 27 22:35:45 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sat, 28 Jan 2017 05:35:45 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 soft brake pedal References: What's with the brakes when the pedal is very hard and the brake shoes have very little pressure against the drums?Mike MacLean On Friday, January 27, 2017 6:47 PM, John and Judy Carter wrote: After bleeding brakes and car sits for a time the brake pedal is soft again. You can pump it up to a firm pedal but it is soft again at the next application. This occurs whether you are driving the car or not(brake booster is fairly new). I cannot find any leaks and the reservoir stays full(silicone fluid). From: Healeys on behalf of healeys-request at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 2:00 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 33?Send Healeys mailing list submissions to ??????? healeys at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit ??????? http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys | Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Netautox.team.netTo see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... | or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to ??????? healeys-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at ??????? healeys-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." Today's Topics: ?? 1. Re: Ethanol (i erbs) ?? 2. Re: Ethanol (Michael Salter) ?? 3. Re: Ethanol (Richard J. Hockert) ?? 4. Re: Ethanol (Oudesluys) ?? 5. Re: Non Healey: Anyone looking for a project MG TD? ????? (Charlie Baldwin) ?? 6. DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? (Jim Lyons) ?? 7. Re: Ethanol (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) ?? 8. Re: Ethanol (Mirek Sharp) ?? 9. Re: DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? (Jean Caron) ? 10. Re: Ethanol (Richard Collins) ? 11. Re: Ethanol (josef-eckert at t-online.de) ? 12. Re: Ethanol (John Spaur) ? 13. Re: Ethanol (josef-eckert at t-online.de) ? 14. Re: DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? (Derek Job) ? 15. Re: Ethanol (Oudesluys) ? 16. Re: Ethanol (Oudesluys) ? 17. Re: Ethanol (Bob Haskell) ? 18. Re: DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? (i erbs) ? 19. Re: Ethanol (Bob Spidell) ? 20. Re: Ethanol (Bob Spidell) ? 21. Re: Ethanol (Bob Spidell) ? 22. Re: Ethanol (Bob Spidell) ? 23. BJ-8 rear end housing (Wayne) ? 24. Re: Ethanol (randyalkins) ? 25. Re: Ethanol (David Nock) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 11:06:15 -0800 From: i erbs To: Simon Lachlan Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Message-ID: ??????? eats rubber parts: hoses, carb diaphragms, and fuel pump innards. Replace all fuel line hoses with ethanol tolerant hoses. Ira Erbs Portland,OR ????? _______????????????????????????????????? _______ ???? (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) ???????? (_________________________) ????????? BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Thu, Jan 26, 2017 at 9:03 AM, Simon Lachlan wrote: > It seems that the UK is to be blessed with this stuff. I?ve been asked for > my thoughts on the topic and, as I know nothing about it, I?m looking for > advice. > > See attached. > > What are your experiences? And what are the ?dos and don?ts?? > > Thanks, > > Simon > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html | www.team.netwww.team.netThe Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... | > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive | Mail Archives - Team.Netwww.team.netTeam.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest updated. | > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys | Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Netautox.team.netTo see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... | > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 15:20:56 -0500 From: Michael Salter To: Randy Alkins ,? "healeys at autox.team.net" ??????? Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Message-ID: ??????? *I doubt many if any cars in UK are E85 compliant.? All fuel lines made prior to 1995 in US were NOT ethanol ready and will fall apart readily.*Hi Randy, Your note has raised a very interesting question. Have you had any experience with original Petroflex hoses failing due to ethanol? We have been subjected to ethanol for many years now and I cannot recall even one incidence of a Petroflex failure that I could attribute to it. My own 100 has an original ? NOS? Smiths Petroflex hose joining the main fuel line to the carb fuel pipe and although it has only been on the road for 2 years since restoration I have not seen any signs of failure and the hose is still very flexible. ?I do know that if you subject a Petroflex hose to "Varsol" ?cleaning fluid it deteriorates rapidly and that should definitely be avoided at all costs. Would appreciate your thoughts. Michael S *?* ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 15:36:42 -0600 From: "Richard J. Hockert" To: "'David Nock BCS'" , "'Simon Lachlan'" ??????? , "'Healey List'" ??????? Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol The correct AFR for alcohol (ethanol) is around 8 to 1 versus gasoline at 14.7 to 1.? Switching to 10% ethanol should equate to about a 5% richer mixture.? Ethanol produces more power than gasoline ? hence alcohol race engines but much more fuel required.? Your mileage will suffer. ? Best regards, Jim ? ? ? From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Nock BCS Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 12:49 PM To: Simon Lachlan; 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol ? The issues with the Ethanol will depend on the percentage of Ethanol they will be putting in. Here in California most of the Ethanol is 10%. However they are talking about raising that and if they do we will start having real problems. The most common issues we run into are . Overheating and miss fires under heavy load due to lean mixtures. Especially worse on the Tri Carb. This can usually be cured by installing the Rich needles. ? The other issues are lack of power and lower gas mileage. ? ? David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com ? Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 9:03 AM Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol ? It seems that the UK is to be blessed with this stuff. I?ve been asked for my thoughts on the topic and, as I know nothing about it, I?m looking for advice. See attached. What are your experiences? And what are the ?dos and don?ts?? Thanks, Simon ? _____? _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 23:59:22 +0100 From: Oudesluys To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have presumably used E85 for years. This usually contains about 5% ethanol, sometimes considerably more. So you have already changed most if not all rubber parts with modern items that are ethanol resistant. If you still have original rubber parts e.g. hoses, replace them. It is unbelievable that some people still have original fuel hoses, brake hoses etc. fitted. They should have been replaced a very long time ago. Very risky. There are claims it can corrode aluminium alloy parts in the carbs and fuel pump, but I still have to see proper physical evidence of this. Pumps and carbs that have been exposed to ethanol containing petrol for donkeys years are mostly still absolutely clean. If the petrol is contaminated with water or if the carbs/pumps have been dry for years you may see some sediment or corrosion, but this is rare. Kees Oudesluijs Op 26-1-2017 om 20:06 schreef i erbs: > eats rubber parts: hoses, carb diaphragms, and fuel pump innards. > Replace all fuel line hoses with ethanol tolerant hoses. > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR >?????? _______????????????????? _______ >????? (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) >?????????? BT7 engine and disk brakes > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > On Thu, Jan 26, 2017 at 9:03 AM, Simon Lachlan > wrote: > >???? It seems that the UK is to be blessed with this stuff. I?ve been >???? asked for my thoughts on the topic and, as I know nothing about >???? it, I?m looking for advice. > >???? See attached. > >???? What are your experiences? And what are the ?dos and don?ts?? > >???? Thanks, > >???? Simon > > >???? _______________________________________________ >???? Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >???? >???? Suggested annual donation? $12.75 >???? Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >???? Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > >???? http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >???? > >???? Unsubscribe/Manage: >???? http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com >???? > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 20:03:33 -0500 From: Charlie Baldwin To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Non Healey: Anyone looking for a project MG TD? Way too much money.? It would be a worthwhile investment at half that. On 1/26/2017 1:12 PM, mike brouillette wrote: > > Just saw this on Ebay.? If anyone is looking for a 1950 MG TD project, > this could be a good start with a buy it now at $7500. > > No interest? > > http://www.ebay.com/itm/272532817015? > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *i erbs > *Sent:* Thursday, January 26, 2017 12:54 PM > *To:* Ahealey help > *Subject:* [Healeys] Home built GTO Tribute > > https://youtu.be/hzNQUPR73Hw > > Guy built himself a fararri GTO... Hard to imagine what the bits he > had to buy cost > > Ira Erbs > > Portland,OR > >?????? _______? _______ >????? (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > >?????????? BT7 engine and disk brakes > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 20:23:27 -0500 From: "Jim Lyons" To: Subject: [Healeys] DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? Hello All, I am looking to replace or repair the DASH TOP on my 1966 BJ8. I?m looking for recommendations for vendors who can supply? the material that is closest to the original vinyl ?leathercloth?. I see that MOSS does offer a DASH TOP, PADDED, BLACK ( pt # 633-850 ) for $203.? Does anyone sell a kit with just the material ? Thanks, Jim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 7 Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 17:43:41 -0800 From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=" To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol IMO: Ethanol is a boondoggle for farmers. It takes more energy to produce than it saves. -- Steve Gerow Altadena, CA BN6 Maker of most complete Big Healey rear disc kit ------------------------------ Message: 8 Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 21:10:29 -0500 From: "Mirek Sharp" To: "'Simon Lachlan'" , "'Healey List'" ??????? Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Simon, we have been subjected to ethanol for some years here in Canada and confess I did absolutely nothing to my '59 BT7 to adjust to it.? I rebuilt the carbs 3 years ago, but prior to that, they had whatever parts I fitted when I previously serviced them, probably 15-20 years ago.? I don't thrash the car, and driving normally I noticed no difference in power, and since it is not my regular driver for work etc., I have never bothered much about fuel consumption (would it influence how much? drive it?- No!).? I can't even recall when I last serviced the fuel pump, it must be at least 25 -30 years ago, perhaps not since I put a new one in around 1975, just after I bought the car.? I expect it would affect timing but I always fine-adjust this with the Vernier on the distributor after static setting per usual practice and I get no pinging.? Being in Canada, the car is not driven during the salt season from around late November to late March(-ish). I don't top up or drain the tank, or add any fuel stabilizers, and it starts up and runs just fine in the spring (except for needing a boost some years). ? My advice is just drive it, and if something breaks, THEN fix it. ? To be clear, I not saying the ethanol has no effect, it plays havoc with the carburation on my vintage motorcycles, which are air-cooled and much less forgiving when burn-rate and combustion temperature are changed with the ethanol.? I just think the Healeys, the 3000s at least, can cope with the changes more easily.? The only other big effect I noticed is that it is attacking the lining I put in one of my BSA fuel tanks, and I will have to clean that out soon before completely breaks down (the solvent is methyl-ethyl ketone - I can't wait!). Good luck with it, Mirek ? From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan Sent: January-26-17 12:04 PM To: 'Healey List' Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol ? It seems that the UK is to be blessed with this stuff. I've been asked for my thoughts on the topic and, as I know nothing about it, I'm looking for advice. See attached. What are your experiences? And what are the "dos and don'ts"? Thanks, Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 9 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 04:12:33 +0000 From: Jean Caron To: Jim Lyons , "Healeys at autox.team.net" ??????? Subject: Re: [Healeys] DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? Message-ID: ??????? ??????? Jim, John Skinner in the UK sells it, good to deal with , reasonably priced. I am sure there are others too in the US. www.john.skinner.co.uk Jean ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Jim Lyons Sent: January 27, 2017 1:23 AM To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? Hello All, I am looking to replace or repair the DASH TOP on my 1966 BJ8. I'm looking for recommendations for vendors who can supply? the material that is closest to the original vinyl "leathercloth". I see that MOSS does offer a DASH TOP, PADDED, BLACK ( pt # 633-850 ) for $203.? Does anyone sell a kit with just the material ? Thanks, Jim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 10 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 05:06:02 +0000 From: Richard Collins To: "Steve B. Gerow" Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Message-ID: ??????? ??????? I get a solid 12% LESS miles on Calif 91 octane (highest available) than I do here in KY with 93 octane (highest available) But I am seeing more 10% Ethanol fuel in KY than in previous years. But we have many ethanol free offerings in the area. Had to change fuel line on Healey recently when it began leaking from splits/disintegration. I smelled it before I found it. Nearly a fire risk. Regards, Richard Of KY BN7 #440 > On Jan 26, 2017, at 9:26 PM, Steve B. Gerow wrote: > > IMO: > Ethanol is a boondoggle for farmers. It takes more energy to produce than it saves. > > -- > Steve Gerow > Altadena, CA > BN6 > ------------------------------ Message: 11 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 07:07:02 +0100 (MET) From: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" To: Oudesluys ,? "Healeys,? Forum" ??????? Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Message-ID: ??????? <1485497222007.6248468.9f7d93919ffb3ba7849f922f045ff06a5fb1a9ee at spica.telekom.de> ??????? Here in Europe most Austin-Healeys (95%+) were completely restored with new parts, lines, hoses, fitted. I only know one or two cars out of 100 which only got a tidying up since they were built. So extremely rare. I have many friends who use E10 (95 Octane) in their classic cars without any problems. My Austin-Healeys need 98+ Octane, so I stay with the premium fuels from Shell (V-Power (101 Octane), or ARAL Ultimate (103 Octane). These premium fuels, or the Super Plus (98 Octane) contain below 5% Ethanol. So I haven?t faced any problems. I would have some problems using E10 (95 Octane), as it would cause after-run of the engines, which are eliminated with higher octane fuels. ? Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany ? ? ? ? -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Datum: 2017-01-27T02:15:07+0100 Von: "Oudesluys" An: "healeys at autox.team.net" ? ? ? It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have presumably used E85 for years. This usually contains about 5% ethanol, sometimes considerably more. So you have already changed most if not all rubber parts with modern items that are ethanol resistant. If you still have original rubber parts e.g. hoses, replace them. It is unbelievable that some people still have original fuel hoses, brake hoses etc. fitted. They should have been replaced a very long time ago. Very risky. There are claims it can corrode aluminium alloy parts in the carbs and fuel pump, but I still have to see proper physical evidence of this. Pumps and carbs that have been exposed to ethanol containing petrol for donkeys years are mostly still absolutely clean. If the petrol is contaminated with water or if the carbs/pumps have been dry for years you may see some sediment or corrosion, but this is rare. Kees Oudesluijs Op 26-1-2017 om 20:06 schreef i erbs: ??? eats rubber parts: hoses, carb diaphragms, and fuel pump innards. ??? Replace all fuel line hoses with ethanol tolerant hoses.?? ??? Ira Erbs ??? Portland,OR ????????? _______????????????????????????????????? _______ ???????? (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) ???????????? (_________________________) ????????????? BT7 engine and disk brakes ???? ??? A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti ??? Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words ??? On Thu, Jan 26, 2017 at 9:03 AM, Simon Lachlan < ??? wrote: ??????? It seems that the UK is to be blessed with this stuff. I?ve been ??????? asked for my thoughts on the topic and, as I know nothing about it, ??????? I?m looking for advice. ??????? See attached. ??????? What are your experiences? And what are the ?dos and don?ts?? ??????? Thanks, ??????? Simon ??????? _______________________________________________ ??????? Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html ??????? ??????? Suggested annual donation? $12.75 ??????? Archive: http://www.team.net/archive ??????? Forums: http://www.team.net/forums ??????? http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys ??????? ??????? Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ ??????? options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com ??????? ??? _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html ??? Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive:http://www.team.net/archive ??? Forums:http://www.team.net/forums ??? Healeys at autox.team.net ??? Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl ??? ? ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 12 Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 22:54:48 -0800 From: "John Spaur" To: , "'Oudesluys'" , ??????? "'Healeys,? Forum'" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Wish I could get 93 octane let alone 95 or 98! ? John San Jose, CA ? From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of josef-eckert at t-online.de Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 10:07 PM To: Oudesluys ; Healeys, Forum Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol ? ?I have many friends who use E10 (95 Octane) in their classic cars without any problems. My Austin-Healeys need 98+ Octane,? Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany ? ? ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 13 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 07:59:51 +0100 (MET) From: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" To: John Spaur ,? "Healeys,? Forum" ??????? Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Message-ID: ??????? <1485500391228.6130407.3568cfdf787e44368a8b41d97a311d79d249f1fa at spica.telekom.de> ??????? John, as far as I know 95 grade "European Octane" is comparable with 91 grade "American Octane". Don?t know the reason for that, as I never went into it further. I.E. Afgas for plane engines is about 103 Octane Europe. ? Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany ? ? ? -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: RE: [Healeys] Ethanol Datum: 2017-01-27T07:54:53+0100 Von: "John Spaur" An: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" , "'Oudesluys'" , "'Healeys, Forum'" ? ? ? Wish I could get 93 octane let alone 95 or 98! ? John San Jose, CA ? From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of josef-eckert at t-online.de Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 10:07 PM To: Oudesluys ; Healeys, Forum Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol ? ?I have many friends who use E10 (95 Octane) in their classic cars without any problems. My Austin-Healeys need 98+ Octane,? Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany ? ? ? ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 14 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 07:58:38 +0000 From: Derek Job To: Jim Lyons Cc: Forum Subject: Re: [Healeys] DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? Message-ID: ??????? AH Spares sell the leather cloth by the metre. Derek On Fri, Jan 27, 2017 at 1:23 AM, Jim Lyons wrote: > Hello All, > I am looking to replace or repair the DASH TOP on my 1966 BJ8. I?m looking > for recommendations for vendors who can supply? the material that is > closest to the original vinyl ?leathercloth?. > I see that MOSS does offer a DASH TOP, PADDED, BLACK ( pt # 633-850 ) for > $203.? Does anyone sell a kit with just the material ? > > Thanks, > Jim > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 15 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 10:44:27 +0100 From: Oudesluys To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol In Europe there was often a substantial amount of ethanol in post war petrol wel into the '60's. Petrol was not of the best quality and ethanol was used as an octane booster. Not many problems at the time. Kees Oudesluijs Op 26-1-2017 om 21:20 schreef Michael Salter: > /I doubt many if any cars in UK are E85 compliant.? All fuel lines > made prior to 1995 in US were NOT ethanol ready and will fall apart > readily. > > /Hi Randy, > Your note has raised a very interesting question. > Have you had any experience with original Petroflex hoses failing due > to ethanol? > We have been subjected to ethanol for many years now and I cannot > recall even one incidence of a Petroflex failure that I could > attribute to it. > My own 100 has an original > ? NOS? > Smiths Petroflex hose joining the main fuel line to the carb fuel pipe > and although it has only been on the road for 2 years since > restoration I have not seen any signs of failure and the hose is still > very flexible. > ?I do know that if you subject a Petroflex hose to "Varsol" ?cleaning > fluid it deteriorates rapidly and that should definitely be avoided at > all costs. > Would appreciate your thoughts. > > Michael S > > > > > > /?/ > ? > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 16 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 13:25:03 +0100 From: Oudesluys To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Op 26-1-2017 om 23:59 schreef Oudesluys: > It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have > presumably used E85 for years Should of course be E95 Kees Oudesluijs ------------------------------ Message: 17 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 08:33:12 -0500 From: Bob Haskell To: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" , John Spaur ??????? , "Healeys, Forum" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol John and Josef, There are two methods for measuring octane rating - motoring and research.? The average of the two is used in the US.? The higher research octane number is used in Europe. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 01/27/2017 01:59 AM, josef-eckert at t-online.de wrote: > John, > > as far as I know 95 grade "European Octane" is comparable with 91 grade > "American Octane". Don?t know the reason for that, as I never went into > it further. I.E. Afgas for plane engines is about 103 Octane Europe. > > Josef Eckert > > K?nigswinter/Germany > > -----Original-Nachricht----- > > Betreff: RE: [Healeys] Ethanol > > Datum: 2017-01-27T07:54:53+0100 > > Von: "John Spaur" > > An: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" , "'Oudesluys'" > , "'Healeys, Forum'" > > Wish I could get 93 octane let alone 95 or 98! > > John > > San Jose, CA > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *josef-eckert at t-online.de > *Sent:* Thursday, January 26, 2017 10:07 PM > *To:* Oudesluys ; Healeys, Forum > > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > > ?I have many friends who use E10 (95 Octane) in their classic cars > without any problems. My Austin-Healeys need 98+ Octane,? > > Josef Eckert > > K?nigswinter/Germany > > ? > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > ------------------------------ Message: 18 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 06:05:03 -0800 From: i erbs To: Jim Lyons Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] DASH TOP REPAIR/ REPLACEMENT ? Message-ID: ??????? Mods sells material by the yard Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes Portland,OR On Jan 26, 2017 6:52 PM, "Jim Lyons" wrote: > Hello All, > I am looking to replace or repair the DASH TOP on my 1966 BJ8. I?m looking > for recommendations for vendors who can supply? the material that is > closest to the original vinyl ?leathercloth?. > I see that MOSS does offer a DASH TOP, PADDED, BLACK ( pt # 633-850 ) for > $203.? Does anyone sell a kit with just the material ? > > Thanks, > Jim > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 19 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 14:14:30 +0000 (UTC) From: Bob Spidell To: Michael Salter Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Message-ID: ??????? <1341990277.104838709.1485526470549.JavaMail.zimbra at comcast.net> My BJ8 has had a Petroflex line in it for 100K+ miles and 25+ years and hasn't had a problem. It does feel a little stiff and since I'm doing an overhaul I've bought a replacement (watch it crap out in 3 months ;). Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Salter" To: "Randy Alkins" , "healeys" Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 12:20:56 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol I doubt many if any cars in UK are E85 compliant. All fuel lines made prior to 1995 in US were NOT ethanol ready and will fall apart readily. Hi Randy, Your note has raised a very interesting question. Have you had any experience with original Petroflex hoses failing due to ethanol? We have been subjected to ethanol for many years now and I cannot recall even one incidence of a Petroflex failure that I could attribute to it. My own 100 has an original ? NOS? Smiths Petroflex hose joining the main fuel line to the carb fuel pipe and although it has only been on the road for 2 years since restoration I have not seen any signs of failure and the hose is still very flexible. ?I do know that if you subject a Petroflex hose to "Varsol" ?cleaning fluid it deteriorates rapidly and that should definitely be avoided at all costs. Would appreciate your thoughts. Michael S ? ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 20 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 14:20:02 +0000 (UTC) From: Bob Spidell To: "Richard J. Hockert" Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Message-ID: ??????? <528184118.104844061.1485526802079.JavaMail.zimbra at comcast.net> Ethanol has a much lower energy content than gasoline, hence the lower mileage with gasahol. See here: http://www.afdc.energy.gov/fuels/fuel_comparison_chart.pdf ('alternate fuels,' not 'alternate facts') It does, however, have a higher octane rating allowing the huge compression ratios in dragsters and other racers; which is what produces the massive power in those engines. Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard J. Hockert" To: "David Nock BCS" , "Simon Lachlan" , "Healey List" Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 1:36:42 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol The correct AFR for alcohol (ethanol) is around 8 to 1 versus gasoline at 14.7 to 1. Switching to 10% ethanol should equate to about a 5% richer mixture. Ethanol produces more power than gasoline ? hence alcohol race engines but much more fuel required. Your mileage will suffer. Best regards, Jim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 21 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 15:36:53 +0000 (UTC) From: Bob Spidell To: John Spaur Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Message-ID: ??????? <1823390093.104910346.1485531413259.JavaMail.zimbra at comcast.net> I believe the European octane ratings are Research Method only, which reads 3-5 points higher than US (R+M)/2. So, European 98 octane would be equivalent to US 93 octane (rare, but available in some areas in the States; 100-octane is available for boat engines around Havasu). Contrary to popular belief, ethanol can actually raise octane. There's a gas station in Los Altos that used to sell 95-octane, which was E10 IIRC. It's very difficult to raise the octane rating of pure gas--it requires special refining--that's why TEL was added starting around WWII for high-compression fighter engines (it was 'discovered' at the Sloan-Kettering institute, who tested several thousand compounds before settling on TEL). Adding ethanol to gasoline means the gas part doesn't have to be as carefully refined (hence 'cheaper'). There is an exhaustive research program being undertaken in order to develop an aviation fuel to replace 100LL--100-octane, 'low-lead,' which I believe is 'only' 2 grams/gallon of elemental lead vs. 3 grams/gallon of previous formulations--and it is proceeding very slowly due to its complexity. I've run tanks of E10 and tanks of pure gas, and didn't notice any significant variance in mileage, but it's usually an 'oranges-to-apples' comparison since most runs involve a mix of highway/freeway and grades, stop-and-go, etc. ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Spaur" To: josef-eckert at t-online.de, "Oudesluys" , "Forum' 'Healeys" Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 10:54:48 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Wish I could get 93 octane let alone 95 or 98! John San Jose, CA -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 22 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 15:43:12 +0000 (UTC) From: Bob Spidell To: Oudesluys Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Message-ID: ??????? <532867142.104914937.1485531792988.JavaMail.zimbra at comcast.net> OK, now I be confused. In the States, E10 is 10% ethanol, E85 is 85% ethanol, so E95 would be 95% ethanol. Is that correct? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Oudesluys" To: "healeys" Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 4:25:03 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Op 26-1-2017 om 23:59 schreef Oudesluys: > It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have > presumably used E85 for years Should of course be E95 Kees Oudesluijs -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 23 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 11:04:04 -0500 From: Wayne To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BJ-8 rear end housing Hello, ??????????? My rear end housing is bent and I may need a replacement. I would be interested in a complete assembly or just the housing itself. I discovered the problem when I had difficulty removing the rear axles, and once they are out they bind on the hub studs preventing reassembly.? I will pull the differential today and install the axles to see how bad the misalignment is. I am located in CT. Wayne ------------------------------ Message: 24 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 12:04:54 -0500 From: randyalkins To: Bob Spidell , Oudesluys ??????? Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Have not heard of 95. There is talk of e15 which will be bad for all. 10 was bad. And some warranties will be denied by engine maufacturers if it goes to 15 Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device-------- Original message --------From: Bob Spidell Date: 1/27/2017? 10:43 AM? (GMT-05:00) To: Oudesluys Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol OK, now I be confused.? In the States, E10 is 10% ethanol, E85 is 85% ethanol, so E95 would be 95% ethanol.? Is that correct? From: "Oudesluys" To: "healeys" Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 4:25:03 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Op 26-1-2017 om 23:59 schreef Oudesluys: > It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have > presumably used E85 for years Should of course be E95 Kees Oudesluijs -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 25 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 10:54:38 -0800 From: "David Nock" To: "Bob Spidell" , "Oudesluys" ??????? Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Check out this report/ road test of a comparison of E85 to Gas. https://www.edmunds.com/fuel-economy/e85-vs-gasoline-comparison-test.html Here at the shop we have been dealing with this problem for a long time with a lot of cars. And found the same problems with all of them, some worse than others. Overheating due the removal of the gas and addition of the Ethanol. The Ethanol burns hotter which reduces emissions. This causes older cars to run hotter. Lower gas mileage and lower performance Miss fires and? Lack of power due to the leaner mixture. The is especially worse on a Tri Carb Healey, the rear carb will lean out on a long hard run at a steady hight rpm. Also Ethanol has a very strong cleaning ability, So if you start using Ethanol in a older gas tank or a tank that has been sitting for while that has a lot of varnish build up. The Ethanol will go about its cleaning ability and clean up all that varnish in the tank and deposit it in the carburettors. I know that there are lots of those out there that have all the techy stuff. But I go by what I have learned by over 40 year of working on all British cars and lots of them. The bottom line with 10 % Ethanol your Vintage car will run hotter, get worse fuel economy and may experience miss fires under heavy acceleration. David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 209 948 8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: Bob Spidell Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 7:43 AM To: Oudesluys Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol OK, now I be confused.? In the States, E10 is 10% ethanol, E85 is 85% ethanol, so E95 would be 95% ethanol.? Is that correct? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Oudesluys" To: "healeys" Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 4:25:03 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Op 26-1-2017 om 23:59 schreef Oudesluys: > It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have > presumably used E85 for years Should of course be E95 Kees Oudesluijs -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ Healeys mailing list Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys ------------------------------ End of Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 33 *************************************** _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Jan 27 23:43:11 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 22:43:11 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] anyone looking for a project car? References: Lol. They have four cars for sale. All piles of shit. Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes Portland,OR On Jan 27, 2017 8:52 PM, "Richard Ewald" wrote: > I am tempted to ask them just what kind of drugs they were using when they > came up with 4K as a price point. I wonder if they meant $40.00 and > misplaced the decimal. > Rick > > On Fri, Jan 27, 2017 at 6:57 PM, i erbs wrote: > >> http://tinyurl.com/hm9y222 >> Looks to me like you would be paying $4K for a vin #, but some people >> like a challenge >> >> >> >> Ira Erbs >> Portland,OR >> _______ _______ >> (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) >> (_________________________) >> BT7 engine and disk brakes >> >> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti >> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com >> >> >> > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From john at jtkarowe.com.au Sat Jan 28 03:26:21 2017 From: john at jtkarowe.com.au (John Rowe) Date: Sat, 28 Jan 2017 20:26:21 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] octane References: <20170128034750.18315.qmail@server278.com> Reverse that- 85% ethanol, 15% fuel John Rowe Qld Australia -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of healeymanjim Sent: Saturday, 28 January 2017 1:48 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] octane there are stations here in vegas that sell E85, which multi-fuel vehicles can use. i was told it is 15percent ethanol/85 gasoline. _______________________________________________ $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/john at jtkarowe.com.au ----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2016.0.7998 / Virus Database: 4749/13852 - Release Date: 01/28/17 From drmasucci at comcast.net Sat Jan 28 05:17:43 2017 From: drmasucci at comcast.net (David Masucci) Date: Sat, 28 Jan 2017 07:17:43 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BJ-8 rear end housing References: <1dff32ad-33b5-ae3f-0ac8-7d6b58b55f27@gmail.com> Hi Wayne, I live in Townsend Ma. I?ve been dragging around a BJ8 rear end for about 40 years under the pretense that I ?might need that someday?. Well I have to start cleaning out some of that kind of stuff. It?s under my barn and I haven?t looked at it for some time, and we would need to check if it?s the type that you need. If you?re interested and need some pictures let me know. Dave > On Jan 27, 2017, at 11:04 AM, Wayne wrote: > > Hello, > > My rear end housing is bent and I may need a replacement. I would be interested in a complete assembly or just the housing itself. I discovered the problem when I had difficulty removing the rear axles, and once they are out they bind on the hub studs preventing reassembly. I will pull the differential today and install the axles to see how bad the misalignment is. I am located in CT. > > Wayne > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/drmasucci at comcast.net > From rchaskell at earthlink.net Sat Jan 28 05:21:30 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Sat, 28 Jan 2017 07:21:30 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] octane References: <20170128034750.18315.qmail@server278.com> E85 is 85% ethanol. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 01/27/2017 10:47 PM, healeymanjim wrote: > there are stations here in vegas that sell E85, which multi-fuel vehicles can use. i was told it is 15percent ethanol/85 > gasoline. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > > From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sat Jan 28 09:18:24 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sat, 28 Jan 2017 08:18:24 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] octane References: <20170128034750.18315.qmail@server278.com> My 2010 Dodge truck is flex fuel and will run on E85, E10 or 100 Petrol. gas mileage goes down, HP goes up, E85 is cheaper than E10, at least in Oregon Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Fri, Jan 27, 2017 at 7:47 PM, healeymanjim wrote: > there are stations here in vegas that sell E85, which multi-fuel vehicles > can use. i was told it is 15percent ethanol/85 > gasoline. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sat Jan 28 09:19:40 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sat, 28 Jan 2017 08:19:40 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] octane References: <20170128034750.18315.qmail@server278.com> E85 is 85% ethanol, Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Fri, Jan 27, 2017 at 7:47 PM, healeymanjim wrote: > there are stations here in vegas that sell E85, which multi-fuel vehicles > can use. i was told it is 15percent ethanol/85 > gasoline. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From blkbt7 at yahoo.com Sat Jan 28 10:50:46 2017 From: blkbt7 at yahoo.com (ROBERT BROWN) Date: Sat, 28 Jan 2017 12:50:46 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] octane References: <20170128034750.18315.qmail@server278.com> E85 is cheaper on the U,S. Because the Feds subsidize it. Otherwise it would cost more than the E10 regular, Sent from my iPhone > On Jan 28, 2017, at 11:18 AM, i erbs wrote: > > My 2010 Dodge truck is flex fuel and will run on E85, E10 or 100 Petrol. gas mileage goes down, HP goes up, E85 is cheaper than E10, at least in Oregon > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > >> On Fri, Jan 27, 2017 at 7:47 PM, healeymanjim wrote: >> there are stations here in vegas that sell E85, which multi-fuel vehicles can use. i was told it is 15percent ethanol/85 >> gasoline. >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/blkbt7 at yahoo.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dwflagg at juno.com Sat Jan 28 14:41:35 2017 From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com) Date: Sat, 28 Jan 2017 21:41:35 GMT Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 Fuel Pump Would anyone have a rebuildable 100/4 fuel pump, or at least the bottom half, for sale or trade? Please contact off the list. TIA. Cheers, Doug ____________________________________________________________ The Real Reason Johnny Carson Show Went Off Air trend-chaser.com http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/588d1042b522110422d80st52duc -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat Jan 28 16:10:20 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sun, 29 Jan 2017 00:10:20 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 Fuel Pump References: <20170128.164135.3478.1@webmail10.dca.untd.com> Which pump is fitted? A picture might help. I have several overhauled series 300/1300 high pressure and high flow SU pumps lying about. No square body pumps. They are all properly cleaned and rebuild, not tarted up with black paint on the coil housing as that was originally untreated cast iron. Some parts can be a bit tarnished externally, some steel caps that were severely rusted, have been painted. All are fitted with a bipolar transil, so they are both negative and positive earth. Shipping is $28. Kees Oudesluijs Op 28-1-2017 om 22:41 schreef dwflagg at juno.com: > Would anyone have a rebuildable 100/4 fuel pump, or at least the > bottom half, for sale or trade? Please contact off the list. TIA. > Cheers, > Doug > > > ____________________________________________________________ > *The Real Reason Johnny Carson Show Went Off Air* > trend-chaser.com > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/588d1042b522110422d80st52duc > SponsoredBy Content.Ad > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From molony at dodo.com.au Sat Jan 28 17:52:16 2017 From: molony at dodo.com.au (Graeme Molony) Date: Sun, 29 Jan 2017 11:52:16 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol / Octane References: <20170128034750.18315.qmail@server278.com> <0898E03E-AC5E-4457-9F47-E8523BBEF628@yahoo.com> Slightly off subject We have a professional touring racing car series down here In Australia and New Zealand called V8 Supercars. The series which is run over race tracks rather than ovals like Nascar comprises Ford,Holden (GM) Nissan and Volvos all limited to 5 Litre capacity and developing around 650 hp and is allegedly the most competitive touring car series in the world It is not uncommon to see 95% of the field qualifying with less than a half a second lap time difference and the remainder of the field being less than a second slower than the lead car Four or five years back the organisers decided to do the right thing by the environment and mandated that the only fuel that was to be used by these cars was E85 Ethanol It took them a while to sort out the change from 100 Octane Gas that was previously used to accommodate the use of E85. God they sounded awful at the first event of the season that I attended with lots of run on backfiring etc. and the mileage per gallon was well down. They finally got there heads around the problem and the cars are faster and more efficient than ever on the E85 So I guess there is hope for us all Graeme Molony (BJ8 that runs on 91 Octane Gas) Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/molony at dodo.com.au -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sat Jan 28 18:01:29 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sat, 28 Jan 2017 17:01:29 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] octane References: <20170128034750.18315.qmail@server278.com> <0898E03E-AC5E-4457-9F47-E8523BBEF628@yahoo.com> Let's hear it for giant agra biz and their lobyists Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Sat, Jan 28, 2017 at 9:50 AM, ROBERT BROWN wrote: > E85 is cheaper on the U,S. Because the Feds subsidize it. Otherwise it > would cost more than the E10 regular, > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Jan 28, 2017, at 11:18 AM, i erbs wrote: > > My 2010 Dodge truck is flex fuel and will run on E85, E10 or 100 Petrol. > gas mileage goes down, HP goes up, E85 is cheaper than E10, at least in > Oregon > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > On Fri, Jan 27, 2017 at 7:47 PM, healeymanjim > wrote: > >> there are stations here in vegas that sell E85, which multi-fuel vehicles >> can use. i was told it is 15percent ethanol/85 >> gasoline. >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com >> >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/blkbt7 at yahoo.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From YNOTINK at msn.com Sat Jan 28 23:13:45 2017 From: YNOTINK at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Sun, 29 Jan 2017 06:13:45 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] octane References: <20170128034750.18315.qmail@server278.com> <0898E03E-AC5E-4457-9F47-E8523BBEF628@yahoo.com>, Yeah, great idea that,turning food into motor fuel. Raises the price of both. ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of i erbs Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2017 1:01:29 AM To: ROBERT BROWN Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] octane Let's hear it for giant agra biz and their lobyists Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words E85 is cheaper on the U,S. Because the Feds subsidize it. Otherwise it would cost more than the E10 regular, Sent from my iPhone My 2010 Dodge truck is flex fuel and will run on E85, E10 or 100 Petrol. gas mileage goes down, HP goes up, E85 is cheaper than E10, at least in Oregon Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words there are stations here in vegas that sell E85, which multi-fuel vehicles can use. i was told it is 15percent ethanol/85 gasoline. _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyray at yahoo.com Sun Jan 29 12:12:23 2017 From: healeyray at yahoo.com (Ray Juncal) Date: Sun, 29 Jan 2017 19:12:23 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] octane References: <1608368787.1292694.1485717143600.ref@mail.yahoo.com> I agree with William B Lawrence making fuel out of corn is a bad idea. It's driving up the price of Bourbon. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From editorgary at aol.com Sun Jan 29 15:05:37 2017 From: editorgary at aol.com (editorgary at aol.com) Date: Sun, 29 Jan 2017 17:05:37 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Know any one who needs an MBA soft-top frame? Realizing how hard it would be these days to find a good set of top-bows for an Austin-Healey roadster, I wonder if any of you know anyone who needs a set of top bows in very good condition from an MGA. When I bought my donor MGA to get a decent body for my race car, it came with a reasonable good soft top, complete with vinyl covering. But obviously, with a roll cage and racing wind screens I had no use for the soft top and side curtains, so I carefully stored them away. Now many years later I really need the storage space, and I just hate the idea of trashing something that someone doing a street restoration might be desperately looking for. Any advice would be appreciated. All I would need is enough money to have them packed and shipped to the new owner (or you could come pick them up at my San Francisco peninsula home. If you know someone, let them know. Gary Anderson Editor-in-Chief, The Star Magazine Mercedes-Benz Club of America -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Mon Jan 30 12:04:10 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Mon, 30 Jan 2017 19:04:10 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol and fuel filter First off, thank you all for your input re ethanol. Seems like it's not a Good Thing and that it gets worse as we go over 10%. That's a brutal precis of a lot of wise advice! One last thing.I need this info for an article so do you have any anecdotal stuff that's ethanol related?? Sort of "I was driving down the highway when the diaphragm split and there I was, up to my ankles in E10, with only five minutes before I was due to scrub up"...no real need to spoil a good story with the truth but I suppose we need to keep our feet near the ground. Now, slightly inspired by all the talk of ethanol eating rubber and all the accumulated crud, I thought I might reinstall my fuel filter. It's an "AC", at least labelled as such.one of the glass bowl types. I was thinking of mounting it beneath the 6-way flasher/relay box about level with the top of the shock absorber. Is there any reason why it can't be down there? ie +/-18" lower than the carbs?? For the life of me I can't see a reason, but only fools rush in..? Thanks, Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Jan 30 13:24:30 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Mon, 30 Jan 2017 12:24:30 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol and fuel filter References: <000001d27b2b$a3f5f0a0$ebe1d1e0$@homecall.co.uk> the only concern should be that it does break if its the glass type. The fuel pump is below the carbs. Pressure will push the fuel. BTW, at least here is Oregon, one can still find ethanol free petrol. It cost more per US gallon. There are a few places not far from my house that sells it. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Mon, Jan 30, 2017 at 11:04 AM, Simon Lachlan < simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk> wrote: > First off, thank you all for your input re ethanol. Seems like it?s not a > Good Thing and that it gets worse as we go over 10%. That?s a brutal precis > of a lot of wise advice! One last thing?I need this info for an article so > do you have any anecdotal stuff that?s ethanol related?? Sort of ?I was > driving down the highway when the diaphragm split and there I was, up to my > ankles in E10, with only five minutes before I was due to scrub up??..no > real need to spoil a good story with the truth but I suppose we need to > keep our feet near the ground. > > Now, slightly inspired by all the talk of ethanol eating rubber and all > the accumulated crud, I thought I might reinstall my fuel filter. It?s an > ?AC?, at least labelled as such?one of the glass bowl types. I was thinking > of mounting it beneath the 6-way flasher/relay box about level with the top > of the shock absorber. Is there any reason why it can?t be down there? ie > +/-18? lower than the carbs?? For the life of me I can?t see a reason, but > only fools rush in?.? > > Thanks, > > Simon > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From johnbday at me.com Mon Jan 30 13:46:04 2017 From: johnbday at me.com (John Day) Date: Mon, 30 Jan 2017 20:46:04 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol and fuel filter ethanol free gasoline ?is often?sold at marinas - at?marina level pricing - but even up here in VT it is available John B. Day Sent from iCloud On Jan 30, 2017, at 03:42 PM, i erbs wrote: the only concern should be that it does break if its the glass type. The fuel pump is below the carbs. Pressure will push the fuel. ?BTW, at least here is Oregon, one can still find ethanol free petrol. It cost more per US gallon. There are a few places not far from my house that sells it. Ira Erbs Portland,OR ? ? ? _______ ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?_______ ? ?? (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) ? ? ? ?? (_________________________) ? ? ? ? ? BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Mon, Jan 30, 2017 at 11:04 AM, Simon Lachlan wrote: First off, thank you all for your input re ethanol. Seems like it?s not a Good Thing and that it gets worse as we go over 10%. That?s a brutal precis of a lot of wise advice! One last thing?I need this info for an article so do you have any anecdotal stuff that?s ethanol related?? Sort of ?I was driving down the highway when the diaphragm split and there I was, up to my ankles in E10, with only five minutes before I was due to scrub up??..no real need to spoil a good story with the truth but I suppose we need to keep our feet near the ground. Now, slightly inspired by all the talk of ethanol eating rubber and all the accumulated crud, I thought I might reinstall my fuel filter. It?s an ?AC?, at least labelled as such?one of the glass bowl types. I was thinking of mounting it beneath the 6-way flasher/relay box about level with the top of the shock absorber. Is there any reason why it can?t be down there? ie +/-18? lower than the carbs?? For the life of me I can?t see a reason, but only fools rush in?.? Thanks, Simon _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fredwescoe at gmail.com Mon Jan 30 15:20:37 2017 From: fredwescoe at gmail.com (Fred Wescoe) Date: Mon, 30 Jan 2017 17:20:37 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol-free gas stations in the U.S. and Canada References: This site may help all of us. It shows ethanol free and high octane stations across the country. It is more expensive but many times well worth it. I live near a 95, 100 and 110 octane, ethanol free station. I mix the 110 with 91/93 octane ethanol for a rough average of 100 octane and 5% ethanol. My BJ8 runs beautifully with this mix. I have a friend with a 64 Corvette and a 70 Porsche and he runs the same mix in both his cars. The station I visit will not allow a gas can fill up. The pump is locked and you must come in with your car to get the gas. They check the car and then pump the gas. Hopefully, all will find something for their car. Enjoy! http://www.pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=NC -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Mon Jan 30 20:42:58 2017 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Mon, 30 Jan 2017 22:42:58 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol-free gas stations in the U.S. and Canada References: Correction ? not just across the country, but across countries! I found two within 10 Km of me up here in the GWN ? many thanks!! Mirek From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Fred Wescoe Sent: January-30-17 5:21 PM To: healeys Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol-free gas stations in the U.S. and Canada This site may help all of us. It shows ethanol free and high octane stations across the country. It is more expensive but many times well worth it. I live near a 95, 100 and 110 octane, ethanol free station. I mix the 110 with 91/93 octane ethanol for a rough average of 100 octane and 5% ethanol. My BJ8 runs beautifully with this mix. I have a friend with a 64 Corvette and a 70 Porsche and he runs the same mix in both his cars. The station I visit will not allow a gas can fill up. The pump is locked and you must come in with your car to get the gas. They check the car and then pump the gas. Hopefully, all will find something for their car. Enjoy! http://www.pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=NC -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bighealey3k at aim.com Mon Jan 30 21:40:36 2017 From: bighealey3k at aim.com (Larry Wendland) Date: Mon, 30 Jan 2017 23:40:36 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol and fuel filter References: Here's a web site that claims to show ethanol free gas stations by state. Click on the "Select State" arrow and they will be indicated with addresses. And you can add to the list if you find one not on the list. Here's the link: http://www.buyrealgas.com/ I found it by googleing Ethanol Fee Gas and it was one of the links listed. Larry '67 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: John Day To: i erbs Cc: Healey List Sent: Mon, Jan 30, 2017 4:13 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol and fuel filter ethanol free gasoline ?is often?sold at marinas - at?marina level pricing - but even up here in VT it is available John B. DaySent from iCloud On Jan 30, 2017, at 03:42 PM, i erbs wrote: the only concern should be that it does break if its the glass type. The fuel pump is below the carbs. Pressure will push the fuel. ?BTW, at least here is Oregon, one can still find ethanol free petrol. It cost more per US gallon. There are a few places not far from my house that sells it. Ira Erbs Portland,OR ? ? ? _______ ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?_______ ? ?? (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) ? ? ? ?? (_________________________) ? ? ? ? ? BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Mon, Jan 30, 2017 at 11:04 AM, Simon Lachlan wrote: First off, thank you all for your input re ethanol. Seems like it?s not a Good Thing and that it gets worse as we go over 10%. That?s a brutal precis of a lot of wise advice! One last thing?I need this info for an article so do you have any anecdotal stuff that?s ethanol related?? Sort of ?I was driving down the highway when the diaphragm split and there I was, up to my ankles in E10, with only five minutes before I was due to scrub up??..no real need to spoil a good story with the truth but I suppose we need to keep our feet near the ground. Now, slightly inspired by all the talk of ethanol eating rubber and all the accumulated crud, I thought I might reinstall my fuel filter. It?s an ?AC?, at least labelled as such?one of the glass bowl types. I was thinking of mounting it beneath the 6-way flasher/relay box about level with the top of the shock absorber. Is there any reason why it can?t be down there? ie +/-18? lower than the carbs?? For the life of me I can?t see a reason, but only fools rush in?.? Thanks, Simon _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys