Subject: Re: [Fot] Stub axle separation

From: Jack Wheeler <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2016 12:45:56 +0000 (UTC)

--===============7568762381265684197==
	boundary="----=_Part_2040445_1366831707.1471178756744"

------=_Part_2040445_1366831707.1471178756744
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

What you need is the Churchill Special Tool for rear hub removal (see pictu=
res).=C2=A0 This particular tool is for the TR-4A IRS, the TR-250 and TR-6,=
 i.e. independent rear suspension cars.=C2=A0 However, I have also used it =
on solid axle cars (TR-3 and TR-4), and it seems to work on these as well.=
=C2=A0 I can't remember exactly, but I may have had to set up some spacers =
to make it work on solid rear axle cars.=20

 Anybody want to make me an offer?=C2=A0 My health is failing, so as much o=
f my old Triumph stuff I can get rid of, the happier my wife will be.=C2=A0=
 Thanks.

Jack

      From: Yellow04 <[email-masked]>
 To: [email-masked]=20
 Sent: Sunday, August 14, 2016 7:41 AM
 Subject: [Fot] Stub axle separation
  =20
Steve,

I'm in the same boat as Charly, and conversations with numerous people on t=
he subject revealed we are by no means alone!=20

What you are describing sounds very much like what I have repeatedly attemp=
ted. Once the factory bond is broken, I have no trouble servicing the stub =
axle with my 20 ton press, but getting them to let go that first time has r=
equired a trip to a shop with bigger toys that I have.

As a picture is worth a thousand words, any chance you can post one of a st=
ub axle in your 20 ton rig and where you are punching the flange?=20

Since I started racing an IRS car, this care and feeding of the diff is tak=
ing some getting used to...

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Steve Yott
> Subject: Re: [Fot] IRS Diff Cover
>=20
> Charley,
> This operation can take a press of up to 40 tons and listen for the "BANG=
"
> when it goes....=C2=A0 I normally pop them in my 20 ton press by using a =
thread
> protector I made on the lathe and have the flange completely encircled wi=
th
> press plates.=C2=A0 When you have the press fully up to pressure take a l=
arge brass
> punch and=C2=A0 hammer.=C2=A0 Position the punch on the flange and give i=
t a good
> whack.=C2=A0 The shock created should start a pressure ripple in the flan=
ge and
> when sufficient it will let go with a bang.=C2=A0 Literally sounds like a=
 shotgun going
> off.
>=20
> Works all the time for me!
>=20
> Steve Yott
>=20
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Charly
> Subject: Re: [Fot] IRS Diff Cover
>=20
> This a little off this subjecy, but not much. I'm rebuilding a TR6 diff a=
nd need y
> to put new bearings in the stub axel. What is the best way to pull the fl=
ange
> off? I've tried my press, with no success and I'm concerned about ruining=
 the
> threads.
>=20
> Charly Mitchel=20

_______________________________________________
[email-masked]

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
yahoo.com

  =20
------=_Part_2040445_1366831707.1471178756744
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><head></head><body><div style=3D"color:#000; background-color:#fff; f=
ont-family:HelveticaNeue, Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande, =
sans-serif;font-size:16px"><div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1471175601702_13826=
">What you need is the Churchill Special Tool for rear hub removal (see pic=
tures).&nbsp; This particular tool is for the TR-4A IRS, the TR-250 and TR-=
6, i.e. independent rear suspension cars.&nbsp; However, I have also used i=
t on solid axle cars (TR-3 and TR-4), and it seems to work on these as well=
.&nbsp; I can't remember exactly, but I may have had to set up some spacers=
 to make it work on solid rear axle cars. <br></div><div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_y=
m19_1_1471175601702_13905"><br></div><div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_147117560=
1702_13904"> Anybody want to make me an offer?&nbsp; My health is failing, =
so as much of my old Triumph stuff I can get rid of, the happier my wife wi=
ll be.&nbsp; Thanks.<br></div><div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1471175601702_13=
825"><br></div><div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1471175601702_13832">Jack<br></=
div><div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1471175601702_13599"><span></span></div><d=
iv id=3D"yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1471175601702_13600" class=3D"qtdSeparateBR"><br=
><br></div><div style=3D"display: block;" id=3D"yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_147117560=
1702_13604" class=3D"yahoo_quoted">  <div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_147117560=
1702_13603" style=3D"font-family: HelveticaNeue, Helvetica Neue, Helvetica,=
 Arial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"> <div id=3D"yui_3_16_0=
_ym19_1_1471175601702_13602" style=3D"font-family: HelveticaNeue, Helvetica=
 Neue, Helvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"> <div=
 id=3D"yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1471175601702_13601" dir=3D"ltr"> <font id=3D"yui_=
3_16_0_ym19_1_1471175601702_13831" face=3D"Arial" size=3D"2"> <hr size=3D"1=
"> <b><span style=3D"font-weight:bold;">From:</span></b> Yellow04 &lt;yello=
[email-masked]&gt;<br> <b><span style=3D"font-weight: bold;">To:</span></=
b> [email-masked] <br> <b><span style=3D"font-weight: bold;">Sent:</spa=
n></b> Sunday, August 14, 2016 7:41 AM<br> <b id=3D"yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_14711=
75601702_13884"><span id=3D"yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1471175601702_13883" style=3D=
"font-weight: bold;">Subject:</span></b> [Fot] Stub axle separation<br> </f=
ont> </div> <div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1471175601702_13605" class=3D"y_ms=
g_container"><br>Steve,<br><br>I'm in the same boat as Charly, and conversa=
tions with numerous people on the subject revealed we are by no means alone=
! <br><br>What you are describing sounds very much like what I have repeate=
dly attempted. Once the factory bond is broken, I have no trouble servicing=
 the stub axle with my 20 ton press, but getting them to let go that first =
time has required a trip to a shop with bigger toys that I have.<br><br>As =
a picture is worth a thousand words, any chance you can post one of a stub =
axle in your 20 ton rig and where you are punching the flange? <br><br>Sinc=
e I started racing an IRS car, this care and feeding of the diff is taking =
some getting used to...<br><br>&gt; -----Original Message-----<br>&gt; From=
: Steve Yott<br>&gt; Subject: Re: [Fot] IRS Diff Cover<br>&gt; <br>&gt; Cha=
rley,<br>&gt; This operation can take a press of up to 40 tons and listen f=
or the "BANG"<br>&gt; when it goes....&nbsp; I normally pop them in my 20 t=
on press by using a thread<br>&gt; protector I made on the lathe and have t=
he flange completely encircled with<br>&gt; press plates.&nbsp; When you ha=
ve the press fully up to pressure take a large brass<br>&gt; punch and&nbsp=
; hammer.&nbsp; Position the punch on the flange and give it a good<br>&gt;=
 whack.&nbsp; The shock created should start a pressure ripple in the flang=
e and<br>&gt; when sufficient it will let go with a bang.&nbsp; Literally s=
ounds like a shotgun going<br>&gt; off.<br>&gt; <br>&gt; Works all the time=
 for me!<br>&gt; <br>&gt; Steve Yott<br>&gt; <br>&gt; -----Original Message=
-----<br>&gt; From: Charly<br>&gt; Subject: Re: [Fot] IRS Diff Cover<br>&gt=
; <br>&gt; This a little off this subjecy, but not much. I'm rebuilding a T=
R6 diff and need y<br>&gt; to put new bearings in the stub axel. What is th=
e best way to pull the flange<br>&gt; off? I've tried my press, with no suc=
cess and I'm concerned about ruining the<br>&gt; threads.<br>&gt; <br>&gt; =
Charly Mitchel <br><br><br>_______________________________________________<=
br><a ymailto=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]=
et">[email-masked]</a><br><br><a href=3D"http://www.fot-racing.com/" ta=
rget=3D"_blank">http://www.fot-racing.com</a><br><br>Donate: <a href=3D"htt=
p://www.team.net/donate.html" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.=
html</a><br>Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" target=3D"_bla=
nk">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>Forums: <a href=3D"http://www.team.n=
et/forums" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br>Unsubscribe/=
Manage: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jwheeler1947@y=
ahoo.com" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jwhee=
[email-masked]</a><br><br><br><br><br></div> </div> </div>  </div></div>=
</body></html>
------=_Part_2040445_1366831707.1471178756744--

--===============7568762381265684197==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

_______________________________________________
[email-masked]

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

--===============7568762381265684197==--

---

From: Bob Kramer <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2016 10:05:47 -0500

I have had at least 50% success with a 12" 3 leg puller. I loosen the nut and either flip it over or replace with an all metal nut, and run it all the way out to protect against mushrooming. I lube threaded rod before and during, the tighten the nut with an 18v impact, and the strike the end of the puller with at least a three pound hammer. I leave the stub axle assembly in the diff for the so it helps if you have the diff firmly located. Between hammer blows I often have to clean up the hex end but I get it done at home and keep moving. When it doesn't work I borrow a 40 ton press and put a full trash pail underneath to catch the flying objects. Eye protection is mandatory and ear protection wouldn't hurt. It is loud!

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 14, 2016, at 6:41 AM, Yellow04 <[email-masked]> wrote:
> 
> Steve,
> 
> I'm in the same boat as Charly, and conversations with numerous people on the subject revealed we are by no means alone! 
> 
> What you are describing sounds very much like what I have repeatedly attempted. Once the factory bond is broken, I have no trouble servicing the stub axle with my 20 ton press, but getting them to let go that first time has required a trip to a shop with bigger toys that I have.
> 
> As a picture is worth a thousand words, any chance you can post one of a stub axle in your 20 ton rig and where you are punching the flange? 
> 
> Since I started racing an IRS car, this care and feeding of the diff is taking some getting used to...
> 
>> This operation can take a press of up to 40 tons and listen for the "BANG"
>> when it goes....  I normally pop them in my 20 ton press by using a thread
>> protector I made on the lathe and have the flange completely encircled with
>> press plates.  When you have the press fully up to pressure take a large brass
>> punch and  hammer.  Position the punch on the flange and give it a good
>> whack.  The shock created should start a pressure ripple in the flange and
>> when sufficient it will let go with a bang.  Literally sounds like a shotgun going
>> off.
>> 
>> This a little off this subjecy, but not much. I'm rebuilding a TR6 diff and need y
>> to put new bearings in the stub axel. What is the best way to pull the flange
>> off? I've tried my press, with no success and I'm concerned about ruining the
>> threads.
>> 
>> Charly Mitchel
> 
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/[email-masked]
> 
>