Subject: Re: [Fot] Stub axle separation

From: "Steve Yott" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2016 18:30:23 -0500

Greg,
Very good question and I too have wondered about the threaded portion of the
axle hub.  It all makes good sense and in reality it would not be hard to
make a puller (hub cracker) that would attach and operate in this fashion.
I do though highly recommend not using the generic three or four legged
puller you describe.  One WILL bend a flange that way and I have seen many
bent flanges brought to me even by good machine shops!  The only tool to use
is the Churchill (hub cracker) and also not over stressing the pull during
separation.  I clamp it down and then put about 20 to 30 tons of pressure on
it and like with the stub axles send a good blow to the screw of the puller
with a large hammer.  It is amazing what a good shock to metal can dislodge.
Plus it is always fun to hear a good loud "bang" in the shop.... wakes
people up in a hurry..

Steve Yott

-----Original Message-----
From: Fot [mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of
[email-masked]
Sent: Sunday, August 14, 2016 4:09 PM
To: [email-masked]; [email-masked]; [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [Fot] Stub axle separation

For years I have been puzzled by the very course threads just around the
center of the outside of the hub on "solid axle" cars rear hub.  It looks as
if these threads were there to screw a puller onto that would pull on the
center part of the hub (just outside of where the hub is fitted onto the
axle
shaft) & push on the center of the axle shaft end without putting any stress
on the outer flange of the hub where the wheel mounting studs are located.
Could it be that there was a special puller for this? 
Often when we have used a generic "hub puller" that connects to the hub by
bolting the legs of the puller to the wheel studs, the result is a bent
wheel mounting flange! even though we have been able to get the hub off of
the axle. Not a good enough result!

Greg Solow
The Engine Room
Sports Car Specialists
Santa Cruz, CA 95060
831 429-1800

------- Original Message -------
>From    : Jack Wheeler[mailto:[email-masked]]
Sent    : 8/14/2016 5:45:56 AM
To      : [email-masked]; [email-masked]
Cc      : 
Subject : RE: Re: [Fot] Stub axle separation

 What you need is the Churchill Special Tool for rear hub removal (see
pictures).  This particular tool is for the TR-4A IRS, the TR-250 and TR-6,
i.e.
independent rear suspension cars.  However, I have also used it on solid
axle cars (TR-3 and TR-4), and it seems to work on these as well.  I can't
remember exactly, but I may have had to set up some spacers to make it work
on solid rear axle cars. 

 Anybody want to make me an offer?  My health is failing, so as much of my
old Triumph stuff I can get rid of, the happier my wife will be.  Thanks.

Jack

       From: Yellow04 <[email-masked]>
 To: [email-masked]
 Sent: Sunday, August 14, 2016 7:41 AM
 Subject: [Fot] Stub axle separation
   
Steve,

I'm in the same boat as Charly, and conversations with numerous people on
the subject revealed we are by no means alone! 

What you are describing sounds very much like what I have repeatedly
attempted. Once the factory bond is broken, I have no trouble servicing the
stub axle with my 20 ton press, but getting them to let go that first time
has required a trip to a shop with bigger toys that I have.

As a picture is worth a thousand words, any chance you can post one of a
stub axle in your 20 ton rig and where you are punching the flange? 

Since I started racing an IRS car, this care and feeding of the diff is
taking some getting used to...

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Steve Yott
> Subject: Re: [Fot] IRS Diff Cover
> 
> Charley,
> This operation can take a press of up to 40 tons
and listen for the "BANG"
> when it goes....  I normally pop them in my 20 ton
press by using a thread
> protector I made on the lathe and have the flange
completely encircled with
> press plates.  When you have the press fully up to
pressure take a large brass
> punch and  hammer.  Position the punch on the
flange and give it a good
> whack.  The shock created should start a pressure
ripple in the flange and
> when sufficient it will let go with a bang. 
Literally sounds like a shotgun going
> off.
> 
> Works all the time for me!
> 
> Steve Yott
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Charly
> Subject: Re: [Fot] IRS Diff Cover
> 
> This a little off this subjecy, but not much. I'm
rebuilding a TR6 diff and need y
> to put new bearings in the stub axel. What is the
best way to pull the flange
> off? I've tried my press, with no success and I'm
concerned about ruining the
> threads.
> Charly Mitchel

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---

From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2016 23:42:26 -0400

> For years I have been puzzled by the very course
> threads just around the center of the outside of the
> hub on "solid axle" cars rear hub.  It looks as if
> these threads were there to screw a puller onto that
> would pull on the center part of the hub

Someone, I forget who offhand, told me they built such a puller and it
worked for them twice.  I plan to repeat the experiment myself.

But in the meantime, I have had success every time with my own method.  I
modified a pair of 1" thick press plates so they fit snugly around the back
of the hub and up against the back of the flange (with reliefs for the ends
of the studs).  Turn the nut over so the flat side is out (leaving the heavy
flat washer between it and the hub face), then load it up in my 15 ton press
with a block of aluminum between the ram & shaft end/nut.  Run the press up
to max pressure, then start tapping on the shaft about a foot below the hub
with a 3# BFH. The goal is to ring it like a bell.  4 or 5 blows will
usually shake it loose, I think one of them took 7.

So far it has worked every time, even on the axle where I destroyed my
version of the Churchill tool.  Literally crushed a 1" ACME forcing screw
lengthwise by standing on the end of a 5' cheater bar ...

Randall