Subject: Re: [Fot] Rotor run out

From: Michael Porter <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2016 19:13:29 -0600

On 9/13/2015 7:27 AM, Greg And Alison Blake wrote:
> I always remove the rotors and take them to the shop that cuts them. I've looked at their lathe and I don't think it could do it while the rotors are still attached to the hub, but I could be wrong. If you do this, do you also remove the bearing race to avoid damage from the operation?
>
The predominant brake machine used by shops is made by AMMCO, and most 
of its benchtop devices have the ability to use either cone centers 
(which use the installed outer races in the hub to index on) or chucking 
plates (which pinion the rotor on its center mounting hole and hat face).

There's no real damage done to the outer races if the rotor and hub are 
mounted properly (no more than is done when torquing the hub spindle nut 
to fully seat the races in the hub after they've been replaced).  The 
big problem is usually after cutting.  If the grease in the hub isn't 
completely removed and the inside of the hub isn't thoroughly cleaned, 
chips from cutting can stay embedded in the grease and wind up in the 
bearings, and the usual result is bearing rollers heat-welded to the 
inner and/or outer races.  I've had to fix a few of such instances of 
carelessness over the years.

Either method will produce good results, as long as the set-up and 
cutting is done properly, and the rotor and/or hub aren't distorted or 
otherwise damaged in such a way that they won't sit on the mandrels 
properly. If, for example, a race has spun in the hub and won't sit in 
its land firmly, that's definitely not a hub to use in turning a rotor 
(but, then, it's a hub that needs replacement, anyway).

Cheers.

-- 

Michael Porter
Roswell, NM

Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....

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