Subject: Re: [Fot] South wick axle

From: Joe Alexander <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2015 18:40:27 -0500

Bill,

Southwick just did a full set up for a FOT in Florida.

I suspect you can get all you need from him.

Retired, I think, but will do work on request.

Regards,

Joe Alexander
645 1st Street
Jesup, IA 50648
The-vintage-racer.com
Gasketinnovations.com
Cell:  319.464.4711

> On Jul 12, 2015, at 10:40 AM, Bill Babcock <[email-masked]> wrote:
> 
> I broke a southwick axle in peyote yesterday. Where do I order new ones. I'd like to get a couple of sets. 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jul 12, 2015, at 7:05 AM, Joe Alexander <[email-masked]> wrote:
>> 
>> FOT:
>> 
>> Source for new or used Quaife. Can anyone help?
>> 
>> Thank you.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Joe Alexander
>> 645 1st Street
>> Jesup, IA 50648
>> The-vintage-racer.com
>> Gasketinnovations.com
>> Cell:  319.464.4711
>> _______________________________________________
>> [email-masked]
>> 
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>> 
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From: Scott Janzen <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2015 09:15:00 -0400

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looking at some old email chains on this subject, it appears that =
Southwick uses Moser circle track axles made for the 8" or 9" ford, but =
modified by Moser for the Tr splines and correct length.  Here's a =
couple of emails from John Styduhar, who converted his TR3 himself, and =
from Tony Drews on the subject.

> When the first copycat was done, we sent the stock axle to Moser and =
they machined their axles based on the dimensions of the stockers.  The =
Ford axle housing ends can be purchased through several sources.  Now if =
you want to purchase Moser axles for a TR4, they will need the correct =
length for these axles.=20

> My "copycat" Southwick conversion on a TR3 rear axle uses the 9" small =
Ford
> housing ends (the housing ID for the sealed bearing is 2.835").  The =
last
> step on the housing end is removed and then fits perfectly over the =
axle
> tube (2.25"OD) for welding.  The Ford axle housing fits right up =
against
> the small locating tab which located the outer leaf spring u-bolt, so
> orientation for track width is easy.  Moser engineering sells the =
24-spline
> axles for $370.00, bearings and wedding band retainers installed for
> $75.00, and they can drill the stud holes on a 4x4.5 pattern for =
whatever
> wheel stud knurl diameter you are using.  Make sure to have them drill =
an
> access hole in the flange to make it easy to install and remove the =
axle
> without taking the brakes apart.  Same setup for TR4 but longer axles =
as
> you TR4 guys and gals already know.  Like Tony mentioned, the brake =
backing
> plates will need to be modified for the 4-bolt bearing retainer =
(backing
> plate ID needs to be enlarged slightly to slip over the bearing and =
the 4
> mounting holes for the C-shaped retainer need to be drilled).  As =
another
> patron mentioned, you can mock everything up and do your welding in =
situ.
> While your welding, go ahead and weld the axle tubes to the pumpkin =
for
> stiffening.

>> The "Southwick Rear Axle Conversion" uses Ford 8" axles that are cut =
down
>> in length and re-splined for the TR-differential.  The outer end of =
the
>> axle tube is cut off and the outboard end of a Ford 8" axle tube is =
welded
>> on.  It is possible that someone sells just that outer end of the =
axle
>> tube.  The backing plates are machined in the center to have a larger
>> diameter hole and holes are drilled for the 4 bolts which hold the =
axle
>> bearing into the housing.
>>=20
>> These axles are a one piece design - the hub / flange is part of the =
axle
>> shaft.  The outer bearing is pressed on and an inner retainer is =
pressed on
>> to hold the bearing in place.  It is a sealed bearing, so acts as the
>> bearing AND the outer seal.  There is an o-ring which goes around the
>> outside of the bearing to seal that area too.
>>=20
>> Those axles don't normally break.  Stock Car racers bounce them off =
of
>> concrete walls and just bend them.  And, if they DO break, they break
>> between the outer bearing and the differential so that the wheel =
stays on
>> the car.

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<html><head></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space; =
"><br><div><div>looking at some old email chains on this subject, it =
appears that Southwick uses Moser circle track axles made for the 8" or =
9" ford, but modified by Moser for the Tr splines and correct length. =
&nbsp;Here's a couple of emails from John Styduhar, who converted his =
TR3 himself, and from Tony Drews on the =
subject.</div><div><br></div><div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div><div =
dir=3D"ltr">When the first copycat was done, we sent the stock axle to =
Moser and they machined their axles based on the dimensions of the =
stockers.&nbsp; The Ford axle housing ends can be purchased through =
several sources.&nbsp; Now if you want to purchase Moser&nbsp;axles for =
a TR4, they will need the correct length for these =
axles.&nbsp;</div></div></blockquote></div><div><br></div><div><blockquote=
 type=3D"cite"><div><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><div =
class=3D"gmail_quote"><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" =
style=3D"margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; =
margin-left: 0.8ex; padding-left: 1ex; border-left-color: rgb(204, 204, =
204); border-left-width: 1px; border-left-style: solid; position: =
static; z-index: auto; "><div><div><div><div><div><div>My "copycat" =
Southwick conversion on a TR3 rear axle uses the 9" small =
Ford<br>housing ends (the housing ID for the sealed bearing is 2.835"). =
&nbsp;The last<br>step on the housing end is removed and then fits =
perfectly over the axle<br>tube (2.25"OD) for welding. &nbsp;The Ford =
axle housing fits right up against<br>the small locating tab which =
located the outer leaf spring u-bolt, so<br>orientation for track width =
is easy. &nbsp;Moser engineering sells the 24-spline<br>axles for =
$370.00, bearings and wedding band retainers installed for<br>$75.00, =
and they can drill the stud holes on a 4x4.5 pattern for =
whatever<br>wheel stud knurl diameter you are using. &nbsp;Make sure to =
have them drill an<br>access hole in the flange to make it easy to =
install and remove the axle<br>without taking the brakes apart. =
&nbsp;Same setup for TR4 but longer axles as<br>you TR4 guys and gals =
already know. &nbsp;Like Tony mentioned, the brake backing<br>plates =
will need to be modified for the 4-bolt bearing retainer =
(backing<br>plate ID needs to be enlarged slightly to slip over the =
bearing and the 4<br>mounting holes for the C-shaped retainer need to be =
drilled). &nbsp;As another<br>patron mentioned, you can mock everything =
up and do your welding in situ.<br>While your welding, go ahead and weld =
the axle tubes to the pumpkin =
for<br>stiffening.</div></div></div></div></div></div></blockquote></div><=
/div></div></blockquote><br></div><div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div><div=
 class=3D"gmail_extra"><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><blockquote =
class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; =
margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0.8ex; padding-left: 1ex; =
border-left-color: rgb(204, 204, 204); border-left-width: 1px; =
border-left-style: solid; position: static; z-index: auto; =
"><div><div><div><div><div><div><blockquote type=3D"cite">The "Southwick =
Rear Axle Conversion" uses Ford 8" axles that are cut =
down<br></blockquote><blockquote type=3D"cite">in length and re-splined =
for the TR-differential. &nbsp;The outer end of =
the<br></blockquote><blockquote type=3D"cite">axle tube is cut off and =
the outboard end of a Ford 8" axle tube is =
welded<br></blockquote><blockquote type=3D"cite">on. &nbsp;It is =
possible that someone sells just that outer end of the =
axle<br></blockquote><blockquote type=3D"cite">tube. &nbsp;The backing =
plates are machined in the center to have a =
larger<br></blockquote><blockquote type=3D"cite">diameter hole and holes =
are drilled for the 4 bolts which hold the =
axle<br></blockquote><blockquote type=3D"cite">bearing into the =
housing.<br></blockquote><blockquote =
type=3D"cite"><br></blockquote><blockquote type=3D"cite">These axles are =
a one piece design - the hub / flange is part of the =
axle<br></blockquote><blockquote type=3D"cite">shaft. &nbsp;The outer =
bearing is pressed on and an inner retainer is pressed =
on<br></blockquote><blockquote type=3D"cite">to hold the bearing in =
place. &nbsp;It is a sealed bearing, so acts as =
the<br></blockquote><blockquote type=3D"cite">bearing AND the outer =
seal. &nbsp;There is an o-ring which goes around =
the<br></blockquote><blockquote type=3D"cite">outside of the bearing to =
seal that area too.<br></blockquote><blockquote =
type=3D"cite"><br></blockquote><blockquote type=3D"cite">Those axles =
don't normally break. &nbsp;Stock Car racers bounce them off =
of<br></blockquote><blockquote type=3D"cite">concrete walls and just =
bend them. &nbsp;And, if they DO break, they =
break<br></blockquote><blockquote type=3D"cite">between the outer =
bearing and the differential so that the wheel stays =
on<br></blockquote><blockquote type=3D"cite">the =
car.</blockquote></div></div></div></div></div></div></blockquote></div></=
div></div></blockquote></div></div></body></html>=

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