Subject: Re: [Fot] TR head cracks

From: Tony Drews <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2014 10:13:27 -0600

Crack between the two water passages between 2 and 3 is common and 
can be ignored.  It's not a sealing surface.

Cheers, Tony Drews

At 07:30 AM 12/23/2014, [email-masked] wrote:
>I need advice on repairing some cracks on a TR4 head between #2 and 3
>cylinders. Is it common and is it a real concern? Can it be  repaired?
>_______________________________________________
>[email-masked]
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/[email-masked]
_______________________________________________
[email-masked]

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

---

From: "Marcel Van Mulders" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2014 12:10:35 +0100

Maybe the cracks will not grow further because the sealing area is at the
combustion chamber wall? If you assemble the engine you will see white
exhaust smoke when the cracks are growing into the combustion chamber.
Repairing would mean : welding the crack after heating the head (6000C?),
without guarantee of success.
Marcel
-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
Van: Fot [mailto:[email-masked]] Namens [email-masked]
Verzonden: dinsdag 23 december 2014 14:30
Aan: [email-masked]
CC: [email-masked]
Onderwerp: [Fot] TR head cracks

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/[email-masked]
_______________________________________________
[email-masked]

---

From: TR4 Tony <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2014 11:28:13 +0000

All

Have we not got a head that's getting to the point that it's not worth a
repair - new cast iron heads are available and very good indeed. Used heads
are still around.

I'd be loathe to throw the same amount of money at a marginal head that I
would at sorting a good used one or indeed twice that for a new one. Most of
the repair techniques will deal with small issues but this sounds like it's
significant, even in this location which normally isn't such a big deal.

Regards

Tony

Sent from my iPhone

> On 24 Dec 2014, at 11:10, "Marcel Van Mulders"
> cylinders. Is it common and is it a real concern? Can it be  repaired?
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/[email-masked]
_______________________________________________
[email-masked]

---

From: Mark J Bradakis <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2014 00:38:54 -0700

> without guarantee of success.

Heating the head to 6,000 degrees C  would certainly not guarantee success.

Off to California for Christmas, hope the server doesn't blow up while I'm gone.

mjb.

---

From: "Marcel Van Mulders" <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2014 12:42:34 +0100

I believe I wrote 6000C, not 6000.
But on another subject : Cor Nuyts is a man near Antwerp who is famous for
his billet steel crankshafts and a lot of special engine parts for tractor
pulling etc.
He has over 100 different crankshafts in the database of a CNC machine i.e.
6cyl TR and 4 cyl TR with 92 and 96 mm stroke (I had a 96mm crank made by
him, but had to sell it on after I told it to the people of the TR
Competition before my first race there) Cor is 70 now and still hard
working. When he was in his twenties, he made succesfully a straight 8
Bugatti crankshaft on an ordinary lathe : it took most of the week-ends
during a year.
Recently, he machined a TR6 block for me to take 3600 Toyota crank thrust
bearings. The bearings couldn't be mounted however, he hadn't machined deep
enough. To avoid transport of the engine again, he milled the bearings 0.3mm
down. To do so, he placed the bearings on a flat magnetic plate to secure
them, and then the plate with the bearings went under a stone to mill them.
On the way home, I thought that this milling with parts on a magnetic plate
could also be used to make used brake pads flat again. I've used Kas
Kastner's method on a drill several times and this is working very well,
but, if you have gathered a lot of partially used brake pads over several
years, milling these on such a machine could be an elegant alternative. What
do you think?
Marcel

-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
Van: Fot [mailto:[email-masked]] Namens Mark J Bradakis
Verzonden: donderdag 25 december 2014 8:39
Aan: [email-masked]
Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] TR head cracks

Marcel Van Mulders wrote:

> Repairing would mean : welding the crack after heating the head
> (6000C?), without guarantee of success.

Off to California for Christmas, hope the server doesn't blow up while I'm
gone.

mjb.

---

From: "Bill Tobin" <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2014 07:30:00 -0500

Hi,  I use a surface grinder with a magnetic chuck to true my brake pads. 
Works great.
Cheers, Bill
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Marcel Van Mulders" <[email-masked]>
To: "'Mark J Bradakis'" <[email-masked]>
Cc: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Friday, December 26, 2014 6:42 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR head cracks

> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/[email-masked]

---

From: "MadMarx" <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2014 13:30:17 +0100

Hi Guys,

hope you survived the first part of the end of year party zone.

I have a question about Holley carbs.

While racing the TR8 on a few events I figured out that throttle blips on
down shifts cause a hesitation on the engine.
This makes it difficult to engage the clutch without locking the rear
wheels.
If I step a little harder on the gas the engine is jumping too far up in
revs so the car is acceleration on the downshift, what I don't want in that
moment.
Acceleration is always great and smooth. Only when the engine comes down
from high revs and need a blip for down shift the hesitation comes.

What to do on the carb?
Making the accelerator squirt less or more?
It is a 4150 HP double pumper. The cam color is pink in position 1.
Injektor size is 31 or 34 which is not clearly readable.
Could also be that injector one is 31 and injector 2 is 34.
_______________________________________________
[email-masked]

---

From: Rick Parent <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2014 06:10:09 -0800

That,s an easy one, 

You have way to much fuel for your little 215!!!!!

The easiest fix is to remove the secondary lever that has the pump cam on it. Remove the phillips screw that is in the end of the secondary shaft, use a flat blade screw driver and pry it off, problem solved! This is a common fix, you will also notice your car will accelerate better every time you get back on the gas hard, like while shifting or coming off a corner.

Hope this helps, Rick

On Friday, December 26, 2014 7:34 AM, MadMarx <[email-masked]> wrote:

Hi Guys,

What to do on the carb?

---

From: "MadMarx" <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2014 15:39:20 +0100

Hi Rick,

I tried that already  by accident.

When I had removed the floats to change the jets to a larger size (was 4x71
at RA last year and now it is 2x73 and 2x77) I left by accident the lever of
the rear secondary float disengaged, so I ran only with the front
accelerator pump.

The engine was running very lean at RA and also on the first race at Spa.
Now I have an AF between 13  13.5

It was no difference fellable with only one accelerator pump. And the
hesitation was still there.

Maybe changing the front one to a smaller size and leaving the rear as it
is?

Cheers

Chris

Von: Rick Parent [mailto:[email-masked]]
Gesendet: Freitag, 26. Dezember 2014 15:10
An: MadMarx; [email-masked]
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Holley tuning

That,s an easy one,

The easiest fix is to remove the secondary lever that has the pump cam on
it. Remove the phillips screw that is in the end of the secondary shaft, use
a flat blade screw driver and pry it off, problem solved! This is a common
fix, you will also notice your car will accelerate better every time you get
back on the gas hard, like while shifting or coming off a corner.

Hope this helps, Rick

On Friday, December 26, 2014 7:34 AM, MadMarx <

Hi Guys,

What to do on the carb?

http://www.fot-racing.com <http://www.fot-racing.com/>

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/[email-masked]
_______________________________________________
[email-masked]

---

From: Kas Kastner <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2014 14:12:11 -0800

I had used a mill for the first try on the brake pad mod so save a used set
of pads, but later thought that I really should get that abrasive material
around my very nice accurate mill, so then went to the dumbbell drill
press..

*Never be beaten by equipment.*

On Fri, Dec 26, 2014 at 3:42 AM, Marcel Van Mulders <
[email-masked]> wrote:

> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/[email-masked]