Subject: Re: [Fot] Viton Rear Seal ?s

From: "Steve Yott" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 29 Nov 2014 20:44:36 -0600

Rich,
I have installed a number of these and feel that if you are measuring only
.020" that the seal may have crept during the install process.  This is easy
to have happen since there is a lot going on during the setting of the
crank.  First question would be, did you machine your own aluminum scroll
seal for the Marx seal or did you purchase the kit?  I know that the parts
provided in the kit are machined properly and that machining your own can
give inconsistent results.  I machine my own since I built a fixture to hold
the seal halves on the mill before the kit was available.

What I do after getting the crankshaft in place and the bearing caps
installed is take two medium screw drivers and work the seal gently into the
scroll shell.  When I feel it is fully seated I leave it alone until the
sealer/glue sets a little so the seal does not creep out.  I normally end up
with about a 1/16" between the crank flange and the face of the seal.  

Now the most important part is to make sure that your flywheel bolts will
NOT EXTEND PAST THE INNER FACE OF THE CRANK FLANGE!!!!!  Too many people
have shredded the seals by using too long of a bolt.  Measure this twice to
ensure the bolts end up at the proper length.

It is a great seal setup and works far better than  the standard scroll or
Rover lip seal type of process.  The best of both worlds!

Steve Yott

-----Original Message-----
From: Fot [mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of Rich
Sent: Saturday, November 29, 2014 5:16 PM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [Fot] Viton Rear Seal ?s

For those who have done this before, what clearance do you end up with
between the seal and the crank flange?

I'm getting around .020" which seems too little to me?

Thanks,

Rich Rock
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From: "MadMarx" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2014 10:55:10 +0100

Hi Rick,

the gap between the seal and the flange is designed to have a minimum
distance of 1mm (=0.4"). In most cases you have a little more distance.
This 1mm is the safety to deal with crank movement when depressing the
clutch.

Please make sure that the flywheel bolts don't protrude through the flange.

It is important to use a good sealer, like silicone.
I had on my race a seal slipping out and was then scrambled by the crank
flange. Since then I recommended to use silicone to hold the seal in place.
Back pressure in the block can force it out after a while if no sealer is
used.
Maybe only an issue on race cars and not so much on road cars.

Cheers
Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Fot [mailto:[email-masked]] Im Auftrag von Steve Yott
Gesendet: Sonntag, 30. November 2014 03:45
An: 'Rich'; [email-masked]
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Viton Rear Seal ?s

Rich,

Steve Yott

-----Original Message-----
From: Fot [mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of Rich
Sent: Saturday, November 29, 2014 5:16 PM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [Fot] Viton Rear Seal ?s

Thanks,

Rich Rock

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/[email-masked]
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From: Joe Alexander <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2014 15:29:10 -0600

In the event you have a need, Chris just sent me another 20 kits of the Viton
Seal assembly.

If you have not machined the scroll off of the crankshaft, this is the new
standard in seal replacement for the wet sleeve engine.

Joe Alexander
645 1st Street
Jesup, IA 50648
The-vintage-racer.com
Gasketinnovations.com
Cell:  319.464.4711

> On Nov 30, 2014, at 3:55 AM, MadMarx <[email-masked]> wrote:
>
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