Subject: [Fot] rear main cap seals

From: <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2014 10:35:25 -0500

I am putting together a motor and have been advised that it is
advantageous to replace the bcut up ropeb   (still canbt get the
image of an elderly lady putting on panty hose out of my
mind)  with  squeezed in silicone sealant.   Might a void form unknown
to the installer?   If the rope is still best,   what is the best gunkum
with which to soak it.

Thanks for the access to your experience.

art de armond
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From: Jeff Kelley <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2014 11:58:16 -0400 (EDT)

The factory soaked the wool felt seals in shellac before they were 
driven into place. Use only a small piece at a time and don't try to set 
the whole seal in one shot.

J Kelley

On Tue, Jul 8, 2014 at 11:35 AM, [email-masked] wrote:

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From: Joe Alexander <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2014 11:13:18 -0500

We have a special tool, per Kas, and tap the seal segments home until we get
100% sealant flow at the bearing block seams.

When all is done per the book and using Chris Marx new Viton seal design,
there are a lot of happy people out there.

Joe Alexander
645 1st Street
Jesup, IA 50648
The-vintage-racer.com
Gasketinnovations.com
Cell:  319.464.4711

> On Jul 8, 2014, at 10:58 AM, Jeff Kelley <[email-masked]> wrote:
>
> The factory soaked the wool felt seals in shellac before they were driven
into place. Use only a small piece at a time and don't try to set the whole
seal in one shot.
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/[email-masked]
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From: <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2014 14:19:27 +0000

Back when I first got into wet liner engines I built my first engine at the
machine shop and he coached me through it. He didn't like the felt seals and
pulled out a box of specialty rope that was designed for this purpose. I use
the felt now, buying extra strips separately so that I can hammer it in
tightly, but I suppose any soft, absorbent and stable cloth would do it well.
I've been tempted to fill the cavity with silicone but haven't tried it.

Bob Kramer
[email-masked]

---- Greg And Alison Blake <[email-masked]> wrote:
> Don't get hung up on the source of the felt as any felt cut up into small
> strips, as others have recommended, will work.
>
> I was in a pinch, last minute engine assembly, and sent Alison to the
thrift
> store for some felt. She came back with left over Easter bunny baskets made
> out of felt.
>
> Don't laugh, these little bunny baskets are currently holding oil at bay in
> the Blake fleet.
>
> Greg
>
> > On Jul 8, 2014, at 10:35 AM, <[email-masked]> wrote:
> >
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/[email-masked]
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From: "Tim Murphy" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2014 12:59:29 -0500

-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Murphy [mailto:[email-masked]]
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2014 1:00 PM
To: [email-masked]'; 'FOT'
Subject: RE: [Fot] rear main cap seals

A key thing that has not been discussed so far is fitting the aluminum piece
to the block using the correct size mandrel so that it is accurately
centered on the crank.  Joe A. sells these that are the correct size and I
think the Moss ones are now the correct size.  The early ones (circa 2008)
were not the correct size and I had to turn my mandrel down to get the
correct fit.  (As I recall there was an error in the Triumph Workshop Manual
dimension.)  I've used Hylomar sealant on the split of the aluminum piece
with good results.  I made the trapezoidal punches out of brass and hammer
them in using about a 2 lb regular hammer.  When the felt starts oozing out
between the bearing block and engine block, I know I'm good.

I use the Permatex Indian Head Gasket Shellac with good results and do as
Tony says.  Lately I've been heating it up in the microwave a bit to make it
a bit more runny so it soaks into the felt better.

Tim
1961 TR4 #317

-----Original Message-----
From: Fot [mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of
[email-masked]
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2014 10:35 AM
To: FOT
Subject: [Fot] rear main cap seals

art de armond

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