Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch, help

From: "Mike Moore" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 20:01:14 -0400

This is for my race car that I am getting ready for Jefferson 500.

I had to put in new clutch master (Wilwood 5/8, same as was in car), and new
slave (stock from Roadster factory.

With car running when I try to engage gear I have to push clutch all the way
to floor, works in last half inch, but then the clutch pedal sticks and
won't come back up.

I have bled a lot and don't see any more air bubbles.

Do I need to adjust rods on either cylinder or is it air.

Thanks

Mike

Michael T. Moore, CPA

2007 West 32nd Street

Erie, PA 16508

Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103

Fax:        814-864-7383
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From: [email-masked]
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 01:17:03 +0000

I would be most interested in what the slave is actually doing when you press the peddle. At least That will tell you if its 'before' or 'after' that point.
J.O. FGR. 
------Original Message------
From: Mike Moore
To: 'FOT'
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch, help
Sent: May 9, 2013 7:01 PM

Thanks

Mike

Michael T. Moore, CPA

2007 West 32nd Street

Erie, PA 16508

Fax:        814-864-7383

Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
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From: Yellow04 <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 09 May 2013 19:14:32 -0700

What are you running for a clutch? Any chance you overextended the pressure plate?

Sent from my Verizon Wireless smartphone

Mike Moore <[email-masked]> wrote:

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From: steve <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 09:50:44 -0700 (GMT-07:00)

Try it WITHOUT that stout slave cyl return spring.

~Steve

-----Original Message-----
>From: Bill Tobin <[email-masked]>
>Sent: May 9, 2013 5:47 PM
>To: Mike Moore <[email-masked]>, 'FOT' <[email-masked]>
>Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 clutch, help
>
>Mike, I'm not sure about the TR4, but on my TR6 the slave has to be on the 
>back side of the mounting plate, which is mounted on the front of the 
>bellhousing.
>If it's on the wrong side, you won't get enough travel to disengage the 
>clutch.
>Like I said, not sure about a 4.
>Now if I could just get my brakes bled...........
>Good luck, Bill
>----- Original Message ----- 
>From: "Mike Moore" <[email-masked]>
>To: "'FOT'" <[email-masked]>
>Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2013 8:01 PM
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/[email-masked]
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From: Bill Babcock <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 10:03:26 -0700

It's easy to overstroke aftermarket clutches. When you do you often crack out
the center boss. You have to know what the maximum stroke is and make sure you
have a stop or a properly sized MC/SC ratio to ensure you can't stroke past
that far. The pushrod needs to be loose enough to turn freely to make sure
you're not putting continuous pressure on the thrust bearings, and make sure
if you replaced the MC with an aftermarket product that it doesn't have a
residual pressure valve built into it. If it does you have to take it out or
the clutch will be impossible to adjuts and you'll toast the thrust bearings.
Bleed the system carefully, adjust the pushrod, and it should be fine.

Speedbleeders work really well, cheap, easy to install, and they let you get
some good quick pumps to carry out the stubborn bubbles.

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