Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Re: Neg. camber on 1964 tr4

From: Larry Young <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2013 13:29:34 -0500

I believe this was intended for the list.  I accidentally send to the 
sender all the time

-------- Original Message --------
Subject: 	Re: [Fot] Neg. camber on 1964 tr4
Date: 	Sun, 10 Mar 2013 09:58:16 -0700
From: 	Kas Kastner <[email-masked]>
To: 	Larry Young <[email-masked]>

I was probably the first to turn the upper "A" arm fulcrum around back 
in 1958 trying to get some negative camber. This move does not give 
enough change in the camber. You just about have the wheel straight up 
only, eleminating the factory setting of positive camber.
  In the end I had to bend the verticle link to get the desired two 
degrees negative. I describe several other methods of achieving a 
negative camber in my first book, the Triumph Preparation Handbook, 
try pages 202-205 for some more information..

*Never be beaten by equipment.*

On Sun, Mar 10, 2013 at 8:42 AM, Larry Young <[email-masked] 

    It seems like it would be difficult to get enough change in camber
    for a TR3/4 by reversing the fulcrum.  The factory spec is +2
    degrees, so it takes quite a lot to get to -2.  Lowering helps a
    little, less than 1/2 degree.  If you shorten the upper A arms as
    many of us have done, you have to remove at least 1/2 inch.  I wrote
    a short report when I studied the suspension on my TR3 (see
    http://tildentechnologies.com/downloads/TRsuspension.PDF). There is
    a neat way to shorten the upper A arms that I discovered from Bob
    Kramer that does not involve cutting them in two.  I can put up a
    photo if anyone is interested in it.  The modification is not
    obvious for organizations that do not permit Heim joints, etc.
    Larry

    On 3/9/2013 1:14 PM, Tony Drews wrote:

        What Richard Good just described for the TR-6 applies to the
        TR-4 as well.

        Tony

        Richard's message if you missed it:
        "Reversing the upper fulcrum from factory orientation pulls the
        control arms in 1/4" and adds about 1.3 degrees negative camber
        if I remember my calculations correctly.  You can do it without
        removing the control arms from the fulcrum. Just remove the four
        bolts holding the fulcrum to the tower and the two bolts through
        the ball joint and remove the whole assembly.  Then hold the
        fulcrum and spin the control arms 180 degrees then bolt the
        whole assembly on the other side of the car.  This keeps the
        front control arm in the front but reverses the fulcrum.

        Preferred camber will depend on the tires.  The Hoosier A6's
        that I run for autocross and hillclimb want 3 degrees.  They are
        225/45-15 on 7" rims.  To get that much camber and to keep the
        tires clear of my unmodified fenders I reversed the fulcrums and
        then slotted the bolt holes to slide them in even further.  I
        just took the worn out tires off and the fronts wore fairly
        even.  The rears were also set at 3 degrees but wore more on the
        inside from squatting under power.  I backed it off to 2 degrees
        to see how that works out.  Also changed to a slightly stiffer
        spring."

        At 11:22 PM 3/8/2013, Jon Gannaway wrote:

            I am preparing a 1964 tr4 to vintage race in California.  I
            am looking for
            simple and easy ways to get negative camber  in the car.
              Any suggestions
            would be helpful.

            Jon Gannaway
            831-402-4080

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---

From: Kas Kastner <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2013 12:06:42 -0700