Subject: Re: [Fot] tattle tale

From: "Terry Stetler" <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2013 07:22:33 -0500

We run one on Jeff's TR3.

It's part of our daily track service routine to check it.
It's an invaluable diagnostic tool and if checked on a schedule can
be the difference between a minor refresh and a major failure.

Terry Stetler
_______________________________________________
[email-masked]

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Jim Norlin <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 08 Mar 2013 10:21:40 -0800

I use a System One inline filter on the Spitfire in addition to the 
normal filter.  A few years back, I spun a bearing shortly after a 
rebuild.  I was concerned that there may have been some residual debris 
in one of the oil lines even though they were flushed thoroughly.  I 
installed a new oil cooler, but also wanted to make certain that there 
wasn't some debris left over from it's manufacturing.  I installed the 
System One just before the oil goes back into the engine.  I did catch 
some miniscule particles the first time or two I ran the engine.  It's 
been totally clean since then, but it is reassuring.
_______________________________________________
[email-masked]

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From: sherry robyn <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2013 17:43:53 -0800 (PST)

I can't find the email now but an FOTer told be me a simple way to get
negative 
camber.  I believe it is to reverse the upper wishbone and I believe
it gives 
approx. 2 1/2 degrees of negative camber.  Right now I have 3/4
degree of 
negative camber using shims and I am getting considerable wear on
the outside 
shoulder of my tires.  My TR6 is used exclusively for
autocrossing and an 
occasional hillclimb with no street use.  What is the
maximum camber I should 
have without causing issues?  Also, what are the
issues that start happening 
with extreme camber (2 1/2 to 3 degrees)?  Thanks
for any help on this.  Jim
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[email-masked]

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From: "Richard Good" <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 08 Mar 2013 23:00:39 -0500

Jim,

Reversing the upper fulcrum from factory orientation pulls the control arms 
in 1/4" and adds about 1.3 degrees negative camber if I remember my 
calculations correctly.  You can do it without removing the control arms 
from the fulcrum.   Just remove the four bolts holding the fulcrum to the 
tower and the two bolts through the ball joint and remove the whole 
assembly.  Then hold the fulcrum and spin the control arms 180 degrees then 
bolt the whole assembly on the other side of the car.  This keeps the front 
control arm in the front but reverses the fulcrum.

Preferred camber will depend on the tires.  The Hoosier A6's that I run for 
autocross and hillclimb want 3 degrees.  They are 225/45-15 on 7" rims.  To 
get that much camber and to keep the tires clear of my unmodified fenders I 
reversed the fulcrums and then slotted the bolt holes to slide them in even 
further.  I just took the worn out tires off and the fronts wore fairly 
even.  The rears were also set at 3 degrees but wore more on the inside from 
squatting under power.  I backed it off to 2 degrees to see how that works 
out.  Also changed to a slightly stiffer spring.

Richard Good

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From: "sherry robyn" <[email-masked]>
Sent: Friday, March 08, 2013 8:43 PM
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: [Fot] Adjusting front camber on a TR6