Subject: [Fot] Neg. camber on 1964 tr4

From: Jon Gannaway <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2013 05:22:33 +0000

I am preparing a 1964 tr4 to vintage race in California.  I am looking for
simple and easy ways to get negative camber  in the car.  Any suggestions
would be helpful.

Jon Gannaway
831-402-4080

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: [email-masked]
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2013 11:35:38 -0500 (EST)

Jon,

We (and several others) have sectioned the wishbones to shorten and adjust 
to about 2.5 degrees, as I remember it. On the other end of the spectrum, 
Gary Horskorta (in your neighborhood) developed fixturing to produce a fully 
adjustable upper A-arm.

If you scroll to the bottom, you will see "Archive: 
some information from there.

I dont know what Dave Hogye did, but whatever it was, it would be first 
cabin. He might jump in on this The list seems a bit quiet right now with folks 
getting ready for the season.

Welcome aboard to the FOT.. 

Hop on a plane with your son and join us at Road America in September. We 
will be all paddocked together in what seems to be the best Kastner Cup we 
have ever had.  A lot of activities, track touring, notables from all over 
North America, and about 10-15 Triumph guys from Europe and the U.K. Memorable.

Joe (A)

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From: davehogye <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2013 19:39:31 +0000 (UTC)

Hello Jon, 
Welcome to the FoT. 
Thanks Joe, for linking me in to this topic. 
I too would scan the archives for suspension information. 
First and foremost, all TR3/4 suspension modifications involve switching to TR4A/TR6 upper A-arms and 3 degree caster trunnion. I believe the early TR4s had the 0 degree trunnion as did the TR2/3. Jon, if that's what is on your car, it has to be changed. 
Tony Drews documented this extensively on his website, tonydrews.com. Tony changes everything to TR4A/TR6, including the upright. The through bolt trunnion is one of the best aspects of this change. This trunnion makes further adjustments and servicing much easier. 
I used the RevingtonTR adjustable fulcrum pivot on my TR3. I thought it was a good compromise to the cut and shut a-arm method and adjustable rod end type. However, I do think that the adjustable rod end is the best way to go and that is what Gary has fine tuned. I know that a few others have used the rod end modification, including uncle jack. 
The Revington TR fulcrum pin spaces the a-arms outward and I had a clearance issue on the inner wheel well body work on my TR3. I trimmed the pin as much as I could beyond the Nyloc nut fastener and tweaked the body work slightly. With the outward spacing on the a-arms they use spacers on each side of the ball joint. This can cause clearance problems between the a-arm and the wheel. I experienced this on one side and made further adjustments. 
I know a TR2 and a TR3 racer that use the Revington design, they race with HMSA. Come to think of it, these guys should be in the FoT. 

Dave H. 

----- Original Message -----
From: [email-masked] 
To: [email-masked], [email-masked] 
Sent: Saturday, March 9, 2013 8:35:38 AM 
Subject: Re: [Fot] Neg. camber on 1964 tr4 

Jon, 

Joe (A) 

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From: Bob Kramer <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2013 15:01:41 -0400

I had this mod done on my first TR4. The idea was from Graham Davies, a british car mechanic who used to have a shop here in Austin. He mocked it up on the car to get the desired camber, drilled holes and cut the tubes to fit and bolted it all together to a loose ball joint to spot weld. Once you round off the corners with a grinder it looks OEM.

I'm about to embark in this mod on my son's car when I convert the suspension to TR6.

Bob Kramer

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy TabLarry Young <[email-masked]> wrote:Here is a photo of some upper A arms I did to give 2 degrees negative 
camber on my TR3 (now John Hasty's) -

http://www.flickr.com/photos/53707928@N02

Cut off the end, drill new holes at the correct location.B  The short 
piece of pipe supports the hole that is not on the flat part. This looks 
much nicer than cutting a piece out of the middle and welding them back 
together. From geometric calculations it takes about 0.174 inches to 
change the camber 1 degree.B  I believe this agrees with the numbers that 
Richard Good had in his post.
Larry

On 3/10/2013 11:14 AM, Cregg Cowan wrote:
> Yes, please do send or post photos.
> Thank you!
>
> Cregg