Subject: [Fot] TR4 build questions

From: marty sukey <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2012 19:54:07 -0500 FILETIME=[ACF98680:01CDE3CC]

A little advice needed from the TR4 masses. On the engine I am working on the
liner protrusion is .008"/.009". Spec calls out .003"/.005".  This is a HP
street engine. Block and head are freshly surfaced, new sleeves. Head gasket
is one of BFE's copper ones. The figure 8 gaskets are .016" steel and could be
probably be surface ground down to reach the .003"/.005" spec. Question is, do
I need to do this or is the extra protrusion ok?

Second question, After the crank is ground I am thinking I need to remove the
cross drilling plugs so that I can clean the internals out sufficiently. It
looks like this has been attempted sometime in the past as a couple of the
hex's are stripped out. Should I remove/replace these? I'm thinking they will
be challenging based upon some being stripped already.

Thanks,
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From: "Steve Yott" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2012 19:22:34 -0600

What I have found through past experience is that with a solid copper head
gasket you want the protrusion on the low side of spec and maybe down to
.002"  The reading you have is way too much for any of the current gaskets.
If I surface the top of the block, which is frequently needed I correct the
cylinder protrusion by taking off the required length from the seat of the
liners.  I made a setup on my lathe to make this a fairly easy process since
I do a lot of these builds.

As far as the crankshaft.... Any reputable crank grinder will as part of the
process remove the plugs, grind the crank, thoroughly clean and reinstall
new plugs!  If you find one that does not follow this process find a new
crankshaft grinder.  I have noticed a number of decent crank grinders
closing shop these days.  There are many reasons for this which are
understandable in today's economy and lack of engine rebuilds being
accomplished.  If you do find a good crank grinder spread the word and help
these folks out.  With the lack of work available and only being able to
charge about $250 for a grinding it is very hard to make money when their
machines cost around $50k or more. 

Steve Yott

-----Original Message-----
From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]] On
Behalf Of marty sukey
Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2012 6:54 PM
To: FOT
Subject: [Fot] TR4 build questions

A little advice needed from the TR4 masses. On the engine I am working on
the liner protrusion is .008"/.009". Spec calls out .003"/.005".  This is a
HP street engine. Block and head are freshly surfaced, new sleeves. Head
gasket is one of BFE's copper ones. The figure 8 gaskets are .016" steel and
could be probably be surface ground down to reach the .003"/.005" spec.
Question is, do I need to do this or is the extra protrusion ok?

Second question, After the crank is ground I am thinking I need to remove
the cross drilling plugs so that I can clean the internals out sufficiently.
It looks like this has been attempted sometime in the past as a couple of
the hex's are stripped out. Should I remove/replace these? I'm thinking they
will be challenging based upon some being stripped already.

Thanks,

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/[email-masked]
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From: "Jim Gray" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2012 19:03:27 -0700

Steve & Marty
The copper head gasket could be the shim type gasket. The old shim steel
gaskets are now shim copper gaskets and are very soft.
On the crank plugs I learned early to ask for them to be removed when
I get the crank back. My ex-crank grinder never sent it back clean.
Always packed with cuttings & debris.

-----Original Message-----
From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]] On
Behalf Of Steve Yott
Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2012 6:23 PM
To: 'marty sukey'; 'FOT'
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 build questions

Steve Yott

-----Original Message-----

Thanks,

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From: "Steve Yott" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2012 21:01:18 -0600

Now that's funny!
Steve

  _____  

From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]] 
Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2012 8:43 PM
To: John Hasty; Jim Gray
Cc: <[email-masked]>; FOT
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 build questions

Car probably would not be able to turn right any more if we did that :)

Marty 

Sent via DroidX2 on Verizon WirelessT

-----Original message-----

From: John Hasty <[email-masked]>
To: Jim Gray <[email-masked]>
Cc: "<[email-masked]>" <[email-masked]>, marty sukey <[email-masked]>,
FOT <[email-masked]>
Sent: Thu, Dec 27, 2012 02:35:02 GMT+00:00
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 build questions

Gee whiz guys. Maybe you should consider sending your cranks down here to
NASCAR country. These guys do it right. 

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 26, 2012, at 9:03 PM, "Jim Gray" wrote:

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From: John Hasty <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2012 22:45:32 -0500

Ok you guys.  Remember Sears Point & Watkins Glen & if you are mature enough
Riverside oh and 24 hrs @ Daytona.

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 26, 2012, at 10:01 PM, "Steve Yott" <[email-masked]> wrote:

> Sent via DroidX2 on Verizon Wirelessb"
>
>
FOT <[email-masked]>

---

From: "Steve Yott" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2012 10:45:19 -0600

I use a thin layer of the "Right Stuff".... I put that crap on
everything!!!!  As per the lady in the hot sauce commercial...

Since it takes awhile to get everything in place and bolted down you don't
want to use a fast set gasket sealer.  I really like the Right Stuff as it
will not fail you and does take a little while to setup.

Steve Yott 

-----Original Message-----
From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]] On
Behalf Of Dennis Delap
Sent: Thursday, December 27, 2012 10:14 AM
To: Bob Kramer
Cc: FOT
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 build questions

Speaking of the figure 8 gasket - what are you all using as a sealant these
days?

On Dec 26, 2012, at 7:26 PM, Bob Kramer <[email-masked]> wrote:

> Make sure you measure protrusion after setting a head on top. I set it 
> all
up
> dry and run nuts down all the studs. You may find out that you have 
> less protrusion than you first measured. The steel figure 8's are 
> stamped and
press
> down to around .0155". If you still have more than .005" you will need 
> to
have
> custom gaskets made. Mordy Dunst "Gasket Works" makes them.
>
> Cleaning the crank without pulling the plugs is a guessing game. Get 
> them
out
> before spending money on the crank!
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Dec 26, 2012, at 6:54 PM, marty sukey <[email-masked]> wrote:
>
> the
>> liner protrusion is .008"/.009". Spec calls out .003"/.005".  This is 
>> a HP street engine. Block and head are freshly surfaced, new sleeves. 
>> Head
> gasket
>> is one of BFE's copper ones. The figure 8 gaskets are .016" steel and
could
> be
>> probably be surface ground down to reach the .003"/.005" spec. 
>> Question
is,
> do
> the
>> looks like this has been attempted sometime in the past as a couple 
>> of the hex's are stripped out. Should I remove/replace these? I'm 
>> thinking they
> will
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/[email-masked]
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/[email-masked]
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