Subject: Re: [Roadsters] soft top

From: Dave Sommers via Datsun-roadsters <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 29 Jun 2020 01:54:26 -0400

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I have done top installs at least 6 to 8 times, sorta lost track. I have not=
 done any early cars, just high windshield ones so take that into considerat=
ion. It is going to take you a good bit of time to do it properly (prob 5 ho=
urs) and it really helps to have the right tools to punch the holes and slot=
s for the fasteners and a good snap set tool if doing snaps for the frame pa=
ds. You must take time and be careful with measurements and punching for fas=
teners to have excellent fit, but its not impossible task.  I have found the=
 Robbins tops to be very predictable in size and fit.  The vinyl ones are bi=
t easier to work with than the canvass, but the canvass can come out very ni=
ce.

Heres how I have done them in the past, others may have different method, bu=
t this works for me and my skill level.

Take a few minutes to measure up the center line of the car between the rear=
 hold down clips and mark that using a piece of blue tape or the like.  Mark=
 the front center similarly, top of the windshield works fine.  Find the cen=
ter of both front and rear of new top and mark with caulk marks.  I put the r=
ear bar into the top first and place the top onto the car making sure to hav=
e it centered over the rear mark and pull it over frame. Make sure it is eve=
n on both sides of the car where it meets the window and doors.  You then pu=
ll the front edge of top under the front bow and get it snug across the fram=
e and caulk mark the front where it bends under the front bow all across the=
 top.  This is the line up mark that tells you how much material goes under t=
he bow clamp.=20

Once satisfied that it is pretty much lined up well on the front bow and app=
ears right across the frame and not crooked on the car it's time to take it b=
ack off. Lay it upside down on clean surface.  Take the frame and front bow o=
ff the car and match up the front bow with the caulk marks you made in the t=
est fit.  Using the clamping metal start in the middle and work to the outsi=
de edges securing the top onto the bowM i do every other screw until I know t=
he fit is good.  It is vital that you have the top centered on the bow and p=
ull it under the clamp at least to your marked line and as even as possible a=
cross the bow.  I have found that you want to go just slightly beyond you ca=
ulk marks when putting the front onto the bow so the top isn't too loose.  I=
t may be difficult to get the top to makes the turns at the outside ends smo=
othly but this can be done and will effect how the top looks at the outside e=
nds when on the car.  There will be a good bit of excess material showing al=
ong the backside of the clamp but don't cut all this off just yet as you can=
 use this to pull tighter if needed later.  You will trim this excess off wi=
th a razor knife before glueing down the gasket.

Top and frame goes back on the car and you get to see if it looks decent acr=
oss the bows and is straight on the car.  You may have to make adjustments a=
nd even take the clamp completely off the front of top and try again, but pr=
obably not if you center measured and were careful.  If you have adjustments=
 at the main frame pivot mounts, I have always made sure they were adjusted d=
own most of the way and the rear hoop in the lowest position. =20

If all looks good, caulk mark the twisty locations and make sure you dont pu=
ll the top off center in the process.  Now you hold your breath and punch th=
e first holes into the top and install the twist fasteners. You can actually=
 punch most of the holes right on the car IF YOU ARE CAREFUL and don't do al=
low your backer to rest on sheet metal that can be bent and have it well pad=
ded. It may be better to remove the top to punch most holes. I=E2=80=99ve do=
ne it both ways depending on how fancy the paint was. =20

Once the twist fasteners are in and top attached to the car, pull the skirt d=
own over each of the successive lift the dots and caulk mark where the stud s=
its on the skirt. They all should pretty much lay in the center of the skirt=
 spaced evenly between the stitching.  Use the punch tool or a razor knife t=
o make slits and hole for the fasteners and install them. I do them one at a=
 time to make sure i get the skirt tight between them.  Also, the =E2=80=9Cd=
ot=E2=80=9D goes forward on both sides. So watch how you punch the holes.=20=

Once all the lift the dots are in the top should look pretty good on the car=
.  If it has some loose or small wrinkles you can figure out where to pull i=
t tighter under the front bow and most the time you can get it to look bette=
r.  Cranking up the main hoop height or the rear bow adjustments can make th=
e rear window snug as well as take out small wrinkles. =20

Once its as good as you can get it, then you trim off the excess along the b=
ow clamp and glue on the gasket. You can then pull the window tension wires t=
hru and fasten them to the bow with the wire eyelets if you want to use the t=
ension wires. =20

It is not the simplest of projects and can be frustrating but most can proba=
bly handle if you have rebuilt a roadster or installed an interior, etc.  ju=
st take time and be careful as once you punch that hole you live with it.  I=
 have stitched material over my mistakes on the twisty locations once and it=
 looked pretty good, but I have an industrial machine I use for boat canvass=
 work so most wont have that available.=20

I will be doing one for another project car in next few months so maybe I ma=
ke a video of this like every other hack mechanic on utube.

Good luck on it.

Dave Sommers
Dive Hatteras llc
www.divehatteras.com
703-517-3724 boat phone

>> On Jun 28, 2020, at 22:30, Pat Horne via Datsun-roadsters <datsun-roadste=
[email-masked]> wrote:
> =EF=BB=BFMy 67.5 has adjusters on the pivots behind the doors. I never fou=
nd any information about how to set them when installing a new top.=20
>=20
> I suspect that most of the years have these adjustable pivots but haven=E2=
=80=99t researched it.=20
>=20
> Peace,
> Pat
>=20
> Pat Horne=20
> We support Habitat for Humanity
>=20
>=20
> On Jun 28, 2020, at 9:25 PM, Brian Conroy via Datsun-roadsters <datsun-roa=
[email-masked]> wrote:
>=20
> =EF=BB=BF Be careful, it=E2=80=99s a fine line between getting it too tigh=
t and too loose. I installed mine a little tight and it is not easy to put u=
p. If I had to do it over again I would do it on a medium warm day and make s=
ure it could be put up easily. However, you don=E2=80=99t want it so loose t=
hat it flaps while you=E2=80=99re driving.
>=20
>=20
> Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPad
>=20
> On Sunday, June 28, 2020, 10:09 PM, dave via Datsun-roadsters <datsun-road=
[email-masked]> wrote:
>=20
> I am installing the soft top on an early 67 roadster.
>=20
> =20
>=20
> I see this:  http://www.311s.org/pmwiki-311/pmwiki.php?n=3DTechSection.Sof=
tTopInstall
>=20
> =20
>=20
> Anyone have anything better?  We have already decided to do the snaps in t=
he back first, then do the front.  I think that makes more sense.
>=20
> =20
>=20
> Btw I found a generic gasket for the front where it meets the windshield -=
 $12!
>=20
> ________________________________________
>=20
> [email-masked]
>=20
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/datsun-roadsters http://autox.team.=
net/archive
>=20
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/bricon=
[email-masked]
>=20
>=20
> ________________________________________
>=20
> [email-masked]
>=20
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/datsun-roadsters http://autox.team.=
net/archive
>=20
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[email-masked]
>=20
>=20
> ________________________________________
>=20
> [email-masked]
>=20
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/datsun-roadsters http://autox.team.=
net/archive
>=20
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/diveha=
[email-masked]

--Apple-Mail-1A4EF92B-506F-4F12-B3A2-ED966E3B29FE
	charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto"><div dir=3D"ltr"><meta http-equiv=3D"conten=
t-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8">I have done top installs at l=
east 6 to 8 times, sorta lost track. I have not done any early cars, just hi=
gh windshield ones so take that into consideration. It is going to take you a=
 good bit of time to do it properly (prob 5 hours) and it really helps to ha=
ve the right tools to punch the holes and slots for the fasteners and a good=
 snap set tool if doing snaps for the frame pads. You must take time and be c=
areful with measurements and punching for fasteners to have excellent fit, b=
ut its not impossible task. &nbsp;I have found the Robbins tops to be very p=
redictable in size and fit. &nbsp;The vinyl ones are bit easier to work with=
 than the canvass, but the canvass can come out very nice.<div><br></div><di=
v>Heres how I have done them in the past, others may have different method, b=
ut this works for me and my skill level.</div><div><br></div><div>Take a few=
 minutes to measure up the center line of the car between the rear hold down=
 clips and mark that using a piece of blue tape or the like. &nbsp;Mark the f=
ront center similarly, top of the windshield works fine. &nbsp;Find the cent=
er of both front and rear of new top and mark with caulk marks. &nbsp;I put t=
he rear bar into the top first and place the top onto the car making sure to=
 have it centered over the rear mark and pull it over frame. Make sure it is=
 even on both sides of the car where it meets the window and doors. &nbsp;Yo=
u then pull the front edge of top under the front bow and get it snug across=
 the frame and caulk mark the front where it bends under the front bow all a=
cross the top. &nbsp;This is the line up mark that tells you how much materi=
al goes under the bow clamp.&nbsp;</div><div><br></div><div>Once satisfied t=
hat it is pretty much lined up well on the front bow and appears right acros=
s the frame and not crooked on the car it's time to take it back off. Lay it=
 upside down on clean surface. &nbsp;Take the frame and front bow off the ca=
r and match up the front bow with the caulk marks you made in the test fit. &=
nbsp;Using the clamping metal start in the middle and work to the outside ed=
ges securing the top onto the bowM i do every other screw until I know the f=
it is good. &nbsp;It is vital that you have the top centered on the bow and p=
ull it under the clamp at least to your marked line and as even as possible a=
cross the bow. &nbsp;I have found that you want to go just slightly beyond y=
ou caulk marks when putting the front onto the bow so the top isn't too loos=
e. &nbsp;It may be difficult to get the top to makes the turns at the outsid=
e ends smoothly but this can be done and will effect how the top looks at th=
e outside ends when on the car. &nbsp;There will be a good bit of excess mat=
erial showing along the backside of the clamp but don't cut all this off jus=
t yet as you can use this to pull tighter if needed later. &nbsp;You will tr=
im this excess off with a razor knife before glueing down the gasket.</div><=
div><br></div><div>Top and frame goes back on the car and you get to see if i=
t looks decent across the bows and is straight on the car. &nbsp;You may hav=
e to make adjustments and even take the clamp completely off the front of to=
p and try again, but probably not if you center measured and were careful. &=
nbsp;If you have adjustments at the main frame pivot mounts, I have always m=
ade sure they were adjusted down most of the way and the rear hoop in the lo=
west position. &nbsp;</div><div><br></div><div>If all looks good, caulk mark=
 the twisty locations and make sure you dont pull the top off center in the p=
rocess. &nbsp;Now you hold your breath and punch the first holes into the to=
p and install the twist fasteners. You can actually punch most of the holes r=
ight on the car IF YOU ARE CAREFUL and don't do allow your backer to rest on=
 sheet metal that can be bent and have it well padded. It may be better to r=
emove the top to punch most holes. I=E2=80=99ve done it both ways depending o=
n how fancy the paint was. &nbsp;</div><div><br></div><div>Once the twist fa=
steners are in and top attached to the car, pull the skirt down over each of=
 the successive lift the dots and caulk mark where the stud sits on the skir=
t. They all should pretty much lay in the center of the skirt spaced evenly b=
etween the stitching. &nbsp;Use the punch tool or a razor knife to make slit=
s and hole for the fasteners and install them. I do them one at a time to ma=
ke sure i get the skirt tight between them. &nbsp;Also, the =E2=80=9Cdot=E2=80=
=9D goes forward on both sides. So watch how you punch the holes.&nbsp;</div=
><div><br></div><div>Once all the lift the dots are in the top should look p=
retty good on the car. &nbsp;If it has some loose or small wrinkles you can f=
igure out where to pull it tighter under the front bow and most the time you=
 can get it to look better. &nbsp;Cranking up the main hoop height or the re=
ar bow adjustments can make the rear window snug as well as take out small w=
rinkles. &nbsp;</div><div><br></div><div>Once its as good as you can get it,=
 then you trim off the excess along the bow clamp and glue on the gasket. Yo=
u can then pull the window tension wires thru and fasten them to the bow wit=
h the wire eyelets if you want to use the tension wires. &nbsp;</div><div><b=
r></div><div>It is not the simplest of projects and can be frustrating but m=
ost can probably handle if you have rebuilt a roadster or installed an inter=
ior, etc. &nbsp;just take time and be careful as once you punch that hole yo=
u live with it. &nbsp;I have stitched material over my mistakes on the twist=
y locations once and it looked pretty good, but I have an industrial machine=
 I use for boat canvass work so most wont have that available.&nbsp;</div><d=
iv><br></div><div>I will be doing one for another project car in next few mo=
nths so maybe I make a video of this like every other hack mechanic on utube=
.</div><div><br></div><div>Good luck on it.<br><br><div dir=3D"ltr">Dave Som=
mers<div>Dive Hatteras llc</div><div>www.divehatteras.com</div><div><span cl=
ass=3D"Apple-style-span" style=3D"-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 2=
6, 0.298);">703-517-3724 boat phone</span></div></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br><=
blockquote type=3D"cite">On Jun 28, 2020, at 22:30, Pat Horne via Datsun-roa=
dsters &lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote:<br><br></blockquote></=
div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF<meta http-equiv=3D"=
content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8">My 67.5 has adjusters o=
n the pivots behind the doors. I never found any information about how to se=
t them when installing a new top.&nbsp;<div><br></div><div>I suspect that mo=
st of the years have these adjustable pivots but haven=E2=80=99t researched i=
t.&nbsp;</div><div><br></div><div>Peace,</div><div>Pat</div><div><br><div di=
r=3D"ltr">Pat Horne&nbsp;<div>We support Habitat for Humanity</div><div><br>=
</div></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br>On Jun 28, 2020, at 9:25 PM, Brian Conroy v=
ia Datsun-roadsters &lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote:<br><br></=
div><div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml><o:OfficeDocumentSetti=
ngs><o:AllowPNG/><o:PixelsPerInch>96</o:PixelsPerInch></o:OfficeDocumentSett=
ings></xml><![endif]-->
Be careful, it=E2=80=99s a fine line between getting it too tight and too lo=
ose. I installed mine a little tight and it is not easy to put up. If I had t=
o do it over again I would do it on a medium warm day and make sure it could=
 be put up easily. However, you don=E2=80=99t want it so loose that it flaps=
 while you=E2=80=99re driving.<div><br><br><a href=3D"https://overview.mail.=
yahoo.com/?.src=3DiOS">Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPad</a><br><br><p class=3D"=
yahoo-quoted-begin" style=3D"font-size: 15px; color: #715FFA; padding-top: 1=
5px; margin-top: 0">On Sunday, June 28, 2020, 10:09 PM, dave via Datsun-road=
sters &lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote:</p><blockquote class=3D=
"iosymail"><div id=3D"yiv2429293094"><style><!--
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--></style><div><div class=3D"yiv2429293094WordSection1"><p class=3D"yiv2429=
293094MsoNormal">I am installing the soft top on an early 67 roadster.</p><p=
 class=3D"yiv2429293094MsoNormal"> &nbsp;</p><p class=3D"yiv2429293094MsoNor=
mal">I see this:&nbsp; <a rel=3D"nofollow" target=3D"_blank" href=3D"http://=
www.311s.org/pmwiki-311/pmwiki.php?n=3DTechSection.SoftTopInstall">http://ww=
w.311s.org/pmwiki-311/pmwiki.php?n=3DTechSection.SoftTopInstall</a></p><p cl=
ass=3D"yiv2429293094MsoNormal"> &nbsp;</p><p class=3D"yiv2429293094MsoNormal=
">Anyone have anything better?&nbsp; We have already decided to do the snaps=
 in the back first, then do the front.&nbsp; I think that makes more sense.<=
/p><p class=3D"yiv2429293094MsoNormal"> &nbsp;</p><p class=3D"yiv2429293094M=
soNormal">Btw I found a generic gasket for the front where it meets the wind=
shield - $12!</p></div></div></div>________________________________________<=
br><br><a ymailto=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" href=3D"mailto:=
[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a><br><br>=
/www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pip=
ermail/datsun-roadsters " target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/da=
tsun-roadsters </a><a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive" target=3D"_blan=
k">http://autox.team.net/archive</a><br><br>Unsubscribe: <a href=3D"http://a=
utox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/[email-masked]" target=3D=
"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/briconroy@ya=
hoo.com</a><br><br><br><blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></div>
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