Hi All,
Just redid my Yenko Stinger; quite like Jim Schardt's car in =
preparation. There are sprayable body fillers...two-part =
poly-eurothane, I believe, which will really help erase and even the =
imperfections...of course I didn't use it and you can tell! As this was =
the first complete refinishing I have done, I know the next one will be =
far better.
Advice: accept some imperfections; otherwise you will either quit or =
never get done.....You will get better at it as you go. Good Luck.
Sorry about the wrap problem...working it.
Chuck
-----Original Message-----
From: Clark Smith [SMTP:Clark@dnf.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 1997 10:58 PM
To: vintage-race@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: RE: Bodywork
Hi All,
Along with this thin coat of "bondo", which now I think is nylon based =
if I
remember right, there is also the application of "primer filler" which =
is
sprayed on with a range of thickness up to about 4 thousands per coat. =
I
probably coated the car with two gallons of this stuff (and then sanded =
it
all off out of inexperience). Each time I would sand flat to the metal =
and
only the low spot would remain "filled". It was often so thin that you
could see the metal underneath.
Though I'm happy with my result on my Speedster, I don't feel qualified
offering suggestions about body and paint work with all the pros on this
list. What inspired me to write was that I was restoring some film shot =
in
the Scaglietti shops of a 1958 Ferrari Testarossa being manufactured. =
You
know, currently $2 million plus, finest Italian body builders, =
handformed
alumimum body pounded over the finest Italian tree stumps.... well =
they
were slathering Bondo at least 3/8s of an inch thick all over the brand =
new
panels. Products have improved since 1958: better adhesion and better
finishing products.
The flattest metal is new metal. Your car is going to a lot of fun to
drive no matter what you do.
Clark
>Fred Clodfelter wrote:
>
>[snip] I have been restoring my 356C Cab for about 4 years now.
>Anyway, I am down to smoothing out the panels and have lost some
>enthusiasm. Every panel but the rear deck lid has some sort of wrinkle =
(not
>from sandblasting) and I do not know how to smooth them.
>I visited a reputable shop nearby to see how they do it. They put a =
thin
>layer of bondo all over the car. It does not make me happy to see =
bondo on
>at least the whole lower half of the car. Any suggestions? [snip]
>=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>Fred - believe it or not, this is how virtually ALL "metal" bodywork is
>done these days. I won't get into a debate on the merits of it, it is =
just
>a fact of life. My neighbor used to own a high end bodyshop (all old
>Ferraris, Porsches and Mercs - vintage, etc.) and the entire car gets a
>thin skim coat of bondo (actually it is similar to bondo but is a LOT =
more
>expensive stuff and supposedly much better) before final blocking and
>sanding.
>
>Ross D. Vincenti
>Asst. General Counsel/Asst. Sec'ty.
>Transamerica Home Loan - Legal Dept.
>Los Angeles, CA 90015
>(213) 742-4756 phone
>(213) 741-7231 or 741-6945 fax
>ross.vincenti@transamerica.com
>64 356C Coupe
>64 Triumph Spitfire 4
"Hay Bales and Asphalt"
a video featuring vintage footage
of motor racing from 1957 to 1961.
Images and description at
http://www.dnf.com
My 1953 Devin-Porsche Restoration project
http://www.dnf.com/devin-porsche.html
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