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Re: [TR] removing TR6 rear damper rebound stop

To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] removing TR6 rear damper rebound stop
From: David P <frogeye@porterscustom.com> (ame7.swcp.com [216.184.2.128]); Fri, 13 Feb 2026 07:49:43 -0700 (MST) SPF_PASS version=4.0.0
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2026 07:49:42 -0700
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <5feb64af290c5845d53807ba407c5e56@automate-it.com> <692677451.141035.1770987264389@mail.yahoo.com>
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Induction Innovations is the brand I have. Fabulous tool. DaveP

On 2/13/2026 5:54 AM, DAVID MASSEY wrote:
> Heat is your friend.  I've easily removed broken exhaust manifold 
> studs (we all know how reluctant they are to come out) with an 
> oxy/acetylene rig.  Heat it slowly while applying torque with a 
> Vicegrip ® and at some point it will start to back out.  But, as you 
> say, this is uncomfortably close to the gas tank.  The good news is 
> pulling the tank from a TR6 is rather easy compared to other cars.
>
> The other option that comes to mind is to drill it out.  I'm trying to 
> remember if there is easy access to that threaded portion from 
> underneath.  If so, drilling down the center is paramount so as not to 
> loose any threads.  Or expect to Helicoil ® it afterwards.
>
> Some say that hammering on it may help break loose the rust bond.  
> Perhaps a hammer and a good chisel applied tangentially to the flat 
> metal plate in the unscrew direction will break it loose.  Maybe grind 
> a notch in the plate for the chisel to engage.
>
> As always, my advice is try the easy stuff first.
>
> Dave
>
>
>
>
> On Thursday, February 12, 2026 at 12:21:08 PM CST, 
> <lee@automate-it.com> wrote:
>
>
> I need to replace the damper-arm rebound stops on my TR6 -- on one the
> rubber has completely crumbled. These are the ones on the frame (not on
> the trailing arm) onto which the damper arm lands at the bottom of its
> travel. But the condition of my rather dirty, rusty frame means that
> they are frozen in place. I'm having trouble gripping the flat metal
> disk. I've soaked with PB Blaster. I have the ability to apply flame
> heat - but that's very close to the fuel tank. Any suggestions?
>   Lee
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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-- 
DBA Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 87107 ph 
505-352-1378  My World go here:WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/

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    <p>Induction Innovations is the brand I have. Fabulous tool. DaveP</p>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 2/13/2026 5:54 AM, DAVID MASSEY
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
      cite="mid:692677451.141035.1770987264389@mail.yahoo.com">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <div class="ydpf4189e9ayahoo-style-wrap"
        style="font-family:Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:16px;">
        <div>
          <div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">Heat is your friend.  I've
            easily removed broken exhaust manifold studs (we all know
            how reluctant they are to come out) with an oxy/acetylene
            rig.  Heat it slowly while applying torque with a Vicegrip 
<span>®</span> 
            and at some point it will start to back out.  But, as you
            say, this is uncomfortably close to the gas tank.  The good
            news is pulling the tank from a TR6 is rather easy compared
            to other cars.</div>
          <div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false"><br>
          </div>
          <div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">The other option that comes
            to mind is to drill it out.  I'm trying to remember if there
            is easy access to that threaded portion from underneath.  If
            so, drilling down the center is paramount so as not to loose
            any threads.  Or expect to Helicoil <span>®</span> it
            afterwards.</div>
          <div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false"><br>
          </div>
          <div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">Some say that hammering on
            it may help break loose the rust bond.  Perhaps a hammer and
            a good chisel applied tangentially to the flat metal plate
            in the unscrew direction will break it loose.  Maybe grind a
            notch in the plate for the chisel to engage.</div>
          <div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false"><br>
          </div>
          <div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">As always, my advice is try
            the easy stuff first.</div>
          <div><br>
          </div>
          <div class="ydpf4189e9asignature">
            <div
style="color: black; font-style: normal; font-size-adjust: none; font-weight: 
normal; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 12pt; line-height: normal; 
font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">
              <div
style="color: black; font-style: normal; font-size-adjust: none; font-weight: 
normal; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 12pt; line-height: normal; 
font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">
                <div><font size="4">Dave <br>
                  </font></div>
                <div><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;color:black;"><br>
                  </span></div>
                <br>
              </div>
            </div>
          </div>
        </div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
      </div>
      <div id="ydp55c90f72yahoo_quoted_1123497396"
        class="ydp55c90f72yahoo_quoted">
        <div class="ydp55c90f72yahoo-style-wrap"
style="font-family:Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:16px;">
          <div
style="font-family:'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, 
sans-serif;font-size:13px;color:#26282a;">
            <div class="ydp55c90f72quoted-text-header"> On Thursday,
              February 12, 2026 at 12:21:08 PM CST,
              <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" 
href="mailto:lee@automate-it.com";>&lt;lee@automate-it.com&gt;</a> wrote: </div>
          </div>
          <div
style="font-family:'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, 
sans-serif;font-size:13px;color:#26282a;border-left: 1px solid 
#ccc;padding-left: 8px;margin: 0px 0px 0px 8px"
            class="ydp55c90f72inline_reply_quote_container"
            data-split-quote-node="true">
            <div><br>
            </div>
            <div><br>
            </div>
            <div>
              <div dir="ltr">I need to replace the damper-arm rebound
                stops on my TR6 -- on one the <br>
              </div>
              <div dir="ltr">rubber has completely crumbled. These are
                the ones on the frame (not on <br>
              </div>
              <div dir="ltr">the trailing arm) onto which the damper arm
                lands at the bottom of its <br>
              </div>
              <div dir="ltr">travel. But the condition of my rather
                dirty, rusty frame means that <br>
              </div>
              <div dir="ltr">they are frozen in place. I'm having
                trouble gripping the flat metal <br>
              </div>
              <div dir="ltr">disk. I've soaked with PB Blaster. I have
                the ability to apply flame <br>
              </div>
              <div dir="ltr">heat - but that's very close to the fuel
                tank. Any suggestions?<br>
              </div>
              <div dir="ltr">  Lee<br>
              </div>
              <div dir="ltr">** <a
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      <pre wrap="" class="moz-quote-pre">** <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" 
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</pre>
    </blockquote>
    <pre class="moz-signature" cols="72">-- 
DBA Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 87107 ph 
505-352-1378  My World go here: <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" 
href="http://WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/";>WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/</a></pre>
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