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Gerald=C2=A0thank you for your comment #1.and to those who have seen my la=
st 2 responses, the interference is a Gerald remained me.i did not grind th=
e flywheel bolts, i just added a washer under the head.the memory is fickle=
thing eh?
Frank
On Wednesday, February 12, 2025 at 08:40:45 AM PST, Gerald Van Vlack <j=
erryvvtr4a@gmail.com> wrote: =20
=20
I'm following this rear seal thread and need to comment.=C2=A0 The newest =
seal design works well with a few items that need followed in conjunction w=
ith it's install.
=20
- Be certain that the flywheel bolts do not cut into the installed seal.=
If using the ARP bolts they need to be shortened a small amount by grindin=
g the ends slightly. I don't know if the stock bolts need the same modifica=
tion but worth inspecting to be sure.
- The best seal will be blamed for a leak when in fact it's not the sour=
ce of the leak. When installing the rear main bearing cap very careful atte=
ntion needs to be paid to sealing the cap to the block. That large rectangu=
lar slot that requires a rope seal pounded into it if not sealed well=C2=A0=
enough will leak and frequently is the source of oil being seen dripping fr=
om the hole in the bellhousing. And then folks blame the rear main seal whe=
n in fact it's that interface between the block and cap that is the source =
of the leak.
My comment is don't blame the crank seal in many cases.
JVV
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Dave MacKay <=
dave@mdmackay.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, February 12, 2025 10:39 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Leaking rear seal on my TR3A's engine=C2=A0I followed the rec=
ent exchange about =E2=80=9CTR Rear Crank Seal Rope?=E2=80=9D with
interest and corresponded with all who replied to the OP. That has me
thinking about how I might address my situation.
In 2008, the engine in my TR3A was rebuilt. As part of that effort an OIL
SEAL CONVERSION KIT was fitted. The conversion required that the scroll on
the crankshaft be ground down. It has always leaked.
I had convinced myself that fixing the leak would be too much trouble and
too expensive to be worth doing. I envisioned having to replace the
crankshaft and then using a more modern conversion (Moss 837-160). I
wanted to check with the list to see if that=E2=80=99s the case or not.
I believe --- but am not certain --- that the conversion was sourced from
Moss (perhaps p/n 837-006). I am aware that incorrect instructions were
provided with some of the conversion kits so that the crankshafts were
ground too small. I don=E2=80=99t know if that=E2=80=99s the case with my c=
onversion: the
crank may have been ground to the correct dimensions, or it might not have
been.
I have three questions:
1) Is there a way to check the crankshaft dimensions to see what it has
been ground to that doesn=E2=80=99t require pulling the engine? I=E2=80=99d=
like to know
if the crank had to ground to the correct dimensions or not.
2) If the crankshaft was ground to the wrong dimensions, is there a way to
fix it (e.g., special seal) short of replacing the crankshaft? Replacement
crankshafts are scarce and quite expensive (>USD$1600).
3) If the crankshaft was ground to the correct dimensions, what have
others done to keep that oil seal conversion from leaking?
I=E2=80=99d welcome any input from those on this list.
Dave MacKay
1960 Triumph TR3A, s/n 68639L
near Toronto, Canada
** triumphs@autox.team.net **
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs=C2=A0 http://www.team.net/a=
rchive
r4a@gmail.com
** triumphs@autox.team.net **
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs=C2=A0 http://www.team.net/a=
rchive
3@yahoo.com
=20
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<html><head></head><body><div class=3D"ydpc0068be8yahoo-style-wrap" style=
=3D"font-family:Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:16px=
;"><div></div>
<div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">Gerald </div><div dir=
=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">thank you for your comment #1.</div><div dir=
=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">and to those who have seen my last 2 respons=
es, the interference is a Gerald remained me.</div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-se=
tdir=3D"false">i did not grind the flywheel bolts, i just added a washer un=
der the head.</div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">the memory is fic=
kle thing eh?</div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false"><br></div><div di=
r=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">Frank</div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"=
false"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false"><br></div><div dir=
=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false"><br></div><div><br></div>
=20
</div><div id=3D"ydpcd329a03yahoo_quoted_0376345569" class=3D"ydpcd=
329a03yahoo_quoted">
<div style=3D"font-family:'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, s=
ans-serif;font-size:13px;color:#26282a;">
=20
<div>
On Wednesday, February 12, 2025 at 08:40:45 AM PST,=
Gerald Van Vlack <jerryvvtr4a@gmail.com> wrote:
</div>
<div><br></div>
<div><br></div>
=20
=20
<div><div id=3D"ydpcd329a03yiv8250301294"><div dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"font-family:Aptos, Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:1=
1pt;color:rgb(0, 0, 0);" class=3D"ydpcd329a03yiv8250301294elementToProof">
I'm following this rear seal thread and need to comment. The newest s=
eal design works well with a few items that need followed in conjunction wi=
th it's install.</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Aptos, Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:1=
1pt;color:rgb(0, 0, 0);" class=3D"ydpcd329a03yiv8250301294elementToProof">
<br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<ol start=3D"1" style=3D"list-style-type:decimal;"><li style=3D"font-family=
:Aptos, Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:11pt;color:rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<div class=3D"ydpcd329a03yiv8250301294elementToProof">Be certain that the f=
lywheel bolts do not cut into the installed seal. If using the ARP bolts th=
ey need to be shortened a small amount by grinding the ends slightly. I don=
't know if the stock bolts need the same modification but
worth inspecting to be sure.</div>
</li><li style=3D"font-family:Aptos, Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-si=
ze:11pt;color:rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<div class=3D"ydpcd329a03yiv8250301294elementToProof">The best seal will be=
blamed for a leak when in fact it's not the source of the leak. When insta=
lling the rear main bearing cap very careful attention needs to be paid to =
sealing the cap to the block. That large rectangular slot
that requires a rope seal pounded into it if not sealed well enough w=
ill leak and frequently is the source of oil being seen dripping from the h=
ole in the bellhousing. And then folks blame the rear main seal when in fac=
t it's that interface between the block
and cap that is the source of the leak.</div>
</li></ol>
<div style=3D"font-family:Aptos, Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:1=
1pt;color:rgb(0, 0, 0);" class=3D"ydpcd329a03yiv8250301294elementToProof">
My comment is don't blame the crank seal in many cases.</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Aptos, Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:1=
1pt;color:rgb(0, 0, 0);" class=3D"ydpcd329a03yiv8250301294elementToProof">
<br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Aptos, Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:1=
1pt;color:rgb(0, 0, 0);" class=3D"ydpcd329a03yiv8250301294elementToProof">
JVV</div>
<div id=3D"ydpcd329a03yiv8250301294appendonsend"></div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Aptos, Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:1=
1pt;color:rgb(0,0,0);">
<br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<hr tabindex=3D"-1" style=3D"display:inline-block;width:98%;">
<div id=3D"ydpcd329a03yiv8250301294yqtfd04841" class=3D"ydpcd329a03yiv82503=
01294yqt4175319239"><div dir=3D"ltr" id=3D"ydpcd329a03yiv8250301294divRplyF=
wdMsg"><font face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" color=3D"#000000" style=3D"font-s=
ize:11pt;"><b>From:</b> Triumphs <triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net> on=
behalf of Dave MacKay <dave@mdmackay.ca><br clear=3D"none">
<b>Sent:</b> Wednesday, February 12, 2025 10:39 AM<br clear=3D"none">
<b>To:</b> triumphs@autox.team.net <triumphs@autox.team.net><br clear=
=3D"none">
<b>Subject:</b> [TR] Leaking rear seal on my TR3A's engine</font>
<div> </div>
</div>
</div><div class=3D"ydpcd329a03yiv8250301294BodyFragment"><div id=3D"ydpcd3=
29a03yiv8250301294yqtfd92825" class=3D"ydpcd329a03yiv8250301294yqt417531923=
9"><font size=3D"2"><span style=3D"font-size:11pt;">
</span></font></div><div class=3D"ydpcd329a03yiv8250301294PlainText"><div i=
d=3D"ydpcd329a03yiv8250301294yqtfd48993" class=3D"ydpcd329a03yiv8250301294y=
qt4175319239">I followed the recent exchange about =E2=80=9CTR Rear Crank S=
eal Rope?=E2=80=9D with<br clear=3D"none">
interest and corresponded with all who replied to the OP. That has me<br cl=
ear=3D"none">
thinking about how I might address my situation.<br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
In 2008, the engine in my TR3A was rebuilt. As part of that effort an OIL<b=
r clear=3D"none">
SEAL CONVERSION KIT was fitted. The conversion required that the scroll on<=
br clear=3D"none">
the crankshaft be ground down. It has always leaked.<br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
I had convinced myself that fixing the leak would be too much trouble and<b=
r clear=3D"none">
too expensive to be worth doing. I envisioned having to replace the<br clea=
r=3D"none">
crankshaft and then using a more modern conversion (Moss 837-160). I<br cle=
ar=3D"none">
wanted to check with the list to see if that=E2=80=99s the case or not.<br =
clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
I believe --- but am not certain --- that the conversion was sourced from<b=
r clear=3D"none">
Moss (perhaps p/n 837-006). I am aware that incorrect instructions were<br =
clear=3D"none">
provided with some of the conversion kits so that the crankshafts were<br c=
lear=3D"none">
ground too small. I don=E2=80=99t know if that=E2=80=99s the case with my c=
onversion: the<br clear=3D"none">
crank may have been ground to the correct dimensions, or it might not have<=
br clear=3D"none">
been.<br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
I have three questions:<br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
1) Is there a way to check the crankshaft dimensions to see what it has<br =
clear=3D"none">
been ground to that doesn=E2=80=99t require pulling the engine? I=E2=80=99d=
like to know<br clear=3D"none">
if the crank had to ground to the correct dimensions or not.<br clear=3D"no=
ne">
<br clear=3D"none">
2) If the crankshaft was ground to the wrong dimensions, is there a way to<=
br clear=3D"none">
fix it (e.g., special seal) short of replacing the crankshaft? Replacement<=
br clear=3D"none">
crankshafts are scarce and quite expensive (>USD$1600).<br clear=3D"none=
">
<br clear=3D"none">
3) If the crankshaft was ground to the correct dimensions, what have<br cle=
ar=3D"none">
others done to keep that oil seal conversion from leaking?<br clear=3D"none=
">
<br clear=3D"none">
I=E2=80=99d welcome any input from those on this list.<br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
Dave MacKay<br clear=3D"none">
1960 Triumph TR3A, s/n 68639L<br clear=3D"none">
near Toronto, Canada<br clear=3D"none">
** triumphs@autox.team.net **<br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
ofollow" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br clear=3D"=
none">
Archive: <a shape=3D"rect" href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs"; =
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http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs</a> <a shape=3D"rect" href=3D"=
<br clear=3D"none">
ailman/options/triumphs/jerryvvtr4a@gmail.com" rel=3D"nofollow" target=3D"_=
blank">
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jerryvvtr4a@gmail.com</a><di=
v id=3D"ydpcd329a03yiv8250301294yqtfd96306" class=3D"ydpcd329a03yiv82503012=
94yqt4175319239"><br clear=3D"none">
</div></div><div id=3D"ydpcd329a03yiv8250301294yqtfd46253" class=3D"ydpcd32=
9a03yiv8250301294yqt4175319239">
</div></div><div id=3D"ydpcd329a03yiv8250301294yqtfd66437" class=3D"ydpcd32=
9a03yiv8250301294yqt4175319239">
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