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For my 1960 TR3A I upgraded my stock lever shocks to the adjustable =
lever shocks from World Wide Auto Parts, and I love them. There are =
instructions where to set it for stock ride, so you have the option to =
make them softer or stiffer than stock. I=E2=80=99m running mine a bit =
stiffer, along with a 7/8=E2=80=9D front sway bar and 205/60R15 Goodrich =
tires on 6 1/2=E2=80=9D Panasport wheels and the handling is excellent.
Rye Livingston
Activities Chairman
Triumph Travelers Sports Car Club
1960 Triumph TR3A
PH: 530-FIND-RYE
> On Dec 6, 2020, at 12:00 PM, Jim Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com> wrote:
>=20
> I=E2=80=99ve done the tube shock and won=E2=80=99t do again for the =
reasons in the pictures. I have rebuilt levers from Worldwide Auto in =
three of my TRs and they are great. I even have the uprated. I DO NOT =
recommend them for a TR4 as they are really hard. Rides like a buck =
board with the leaf springs. I am switching out to a stock rebuild. =
Jane at Worldwide mentioned only get uprated if you are racing. =20
> Cheers,
> Jim Henningsen
> Ocala FL
> 61 3A
> 62 4
> 67 4A
> 75 6
> 81 8=20
> =20
> From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net =
> Sent: Sunday, December 06, 2020 1:50 PM
> To: Will Daehler <will.daehler@gmail.com =
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Investigating replacing the Armstrong lever =
shocks with telescopic rear shock conversions
> =20
> Will - I'm not as familiar with the solid axle of the TR4, so this may =
or may not be relevant to your situation. =20
>=20
> There are at least three styles of tube shock conversions for the TR6 =
and I assume the 4A. The one with three triangular brackets that go =
through the body (likely the one you looked at from Moss), A bracket =
that bolts to the body with no frame attachment, and a single plate =
bracket that bolts to the lever shock mount.
>=20
> Also watch for feedback on people that just get the lever shocks =
rebuilt with a heavy duty rebuild. If I was starting over, that is =
probably what I would do.
>=20
> A sample of the three plate design at Moss is 670-128 - see =
https://mossmotors.com/rear-tube-shock-conversion-kits =
<https://mossmotors.com/rear-tube-shock-conversion-kits> - the Monroe =
shock version for the 4A is available. They have an article at =
http://www.mossmotoring.com/tr6-tube-shock-conversion/ =
<http://www.mossmotoring.com/tr6-tube-shock-conversion/> It looks like =
a sturdy design, but takes significant effort to install. Read the =
instructions from their website.
>=20
> I do not recommend the bracket that just bolts to the body without a =
frame attachments.
>=20
> I used the single plate version because it was much easier, but this =
design leads to flexing of the frame cross member and cracking of the =
frame, including mine. See the 0091, 2217, and 2218 images attached of =
other people's cars discovered at a local club tech clinic. If you have =
this design, I recommend you check the frame cross member regularly. If =
you have the rear spring out for any reason, run the trailing arm =
through its full range of motion and you will probably see the top of =
the shock mount move front to rear.
>=20
> After having my frame cracks welded, I built a new version of the =
single plate design available from some vendors. I extended the top =
mount for the shock back about two inches and added two braces. One is =
a length of 1" angle iron that goes between the two shock mounts near =
the top of the bracket, just below the body to side to side stability. =
The other is the more important addition and goes from the top of the =
shock bracket rearward to the frame at about a 45 deg angle. This one =
stops any front to rear motion of the shock bracket. Unfortunately the =
car isn't easily accessible right now and I can't find my pictures.
>=20
> Below is an item I wrote 20 years ago or so. The 5-6025 kit is the =
single plate design that in my opinion needs at least the added bracket =
from the top of the shock mount to the frame.
>=20
>=20
> Tube Shock Conversion Notes
>=20
> Notes on my TR6 tube shock conversion:
> > Would like to know if anybody on the list has any knowledge or =
experience with
> > the shock conversion kit that v.b. sells as part # 5-6025. It is =
listed on
> > page 11 in the summer catalog.......
> I put similar brackets on my car. They are the easiest design to fit, =
taking about 30 minutes to install. I purchased my brackets from =
someone who made them for his car for $40. I bought the shocks from Pep =
Boys for $12.95 each. The VB shocks must be pretty good to command the =
$189 price tag. My driving can often be aggressive, especially at =
autocross events (2nd place in class at the Moss festival and first =
overall at Triumphest in 1998). The cheap shock seem to work fine for =
me in the rear, though I may just not know any better. The PO put =
Koni's on the front.
>=20
> Installation made a tremendous improvement in my car, but that's =
because my lever shocks were dead. I've heard lots of good things about =
the heavy duty rebuilds to the lever shocks. Doing it again, I'd give =
this serious thought.
>=20
> Disadvantages of this design:
> - When the car is in the air, the limit stop for the trailing arm =
travel is the tube shock. I had a shock fail after only a year =
(exchanged for free replacement). I think the other one may also need =
replacement, as there's oil on the tube. This tension is transferred =
through the shock to the bracket, at a slight angle, torquing the frame =
cross member that holds the shocks and rear differential mounts. I =
mention this because I just discovered several broken welds including =
both rear differential mounts and the crossemember to frame connection =
near the right shock mount. The car had the differential reinforcing =
brackets installed for the DPO. I don't know if the shock conversion =
caused this, but I think it aggravated the problem. (Any comments on =
this from others?)
>=20
> - You are limited in tire width to 205 series tires, which may rub the =
bracket if you have lots of camber or weak springs.
>=20
> Safety considerations:
> - The Gabrial shocks I purchased only have a single nut on each end of =
the shock. The guy I got the brackets through had a shock come undone. =
Your shocks should be double nutted. I used a nylocs because I had a =
box of them, but any nut should work.
>=20
> - Check the tires and brackets for rubbing. I have a little bit on =
the right side recently, but nothing I'm concerned about. I can't see =
any indication on the tire, just some rubber dust on the bracket. I run =
205/65 tires and will adjust the camber on the right tire.
>=20
> If your into welding, you can make your own brackets looking at the =
picture. Drop me an e-mail and I'll look up the shock number again. =
It's off 50's Studebakers and Cadillacs if I remember correctly.
>=20
> The Moss kit is an effort to install. It has three triangular =
brackets per side. One to the standard shock mount, the second inside =
the body by the fuel tank, and the third in the wheel well area. The =
first step in the instructions was to remove the fuel tank.
>=20
> I'd always avoid a shock that only bolts to the body. The dampening =
forces need to go to the frame.
>=20
> Brian
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
> On 12/6/2020 8:34 AM, Will Daehler wrote:
>> When going over bumps in my TR4 I have quite a rattle from the right =
rear area of my car. I have poked around by the axle, and thought I =
have fixed the problem a couple of times. I have replaced the springs =
and refilled the Armstrong shocks. I have poked around. While looking =
through my Moss catalog I noticed the kits for replacing the Armstrong =
shocks with these brackets that you could mount shock absorbers to. But =
the kits are NLS. No Longer Supplied. I was wondering why the kits =
were discontinued. It could have been that they caused damage to the =
frame, or just didn=E2=80=99t work. I was hoping somebody had any =
first-hand knowledge or experience on this topic that they could =
discuss. I wonder if the racing group all have custom and proprietary =
set ups.
>> =20
>> Will Daehler
>> 63 TR4 =20
>>=20
>>=20
>> =20
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html =
<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs =
<http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs> http://www.team.net/archive =
<http://www.team.net/archive>
>> =20
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bk13@earthlink.net =
<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bk13@earthlink.net>=20
>=20
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html =
<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs =
<http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs> http://www.team.net/archive =
<http://www.team.net/archive>
>=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage: =
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<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ryel@mac.com>
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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dutf-8"></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;" class=3D"">For =
my 1960 TR3A I upgraded my stock lever shocks to the adjustable lever =
shocks from World Wide Auto Parts, and I love them. There are =
instructions where to set it for stock ride, so you have the option to =
make them softer or stiffer than stock. I=E2=80=99m running mine a =
bit stiffer, along with a 7/8=E2=80=9D front sway bar and 205/60R15 =
Goodrich tires on 6 1/2=E2=80=9D Panasport wheels and the handling is =
excellent.<div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">Rye =
Livingston<br class=3D"">Activities Chairman<br class=3D"">Triumph =
Travelers Sports Car Club<br class=3D"">1960 Triumph TR3A<br =
class=3D"">PH: 530-FIND-RYE<br class=3D""><div><br class=3D""><blockquote =
type=3D"cite" class=3D""><div class=3D"">On Dec 6, 2020, at 12:00 PM, =
Jim Henningsen <<a href=3D"mailto:trguy75@gmail.com"; =
class=3D"">trguy75@gmail.com</a>> wrote:</div><br =
class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"><div class=3D""><meta =
charset=3D"UTF-8" class=3D""><div class=3D"WordSection1" style=3D"page: =
WordSection1; caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica; =
font-size: 12px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; =
font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; =
text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; =
word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration: =
none;"><div style=3D"margin: 0in; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri, =
sans-serif;" class=3D"">I=E2=80=99ve done the tube shock and won=E2=80=99t=
do again for the reasons in the pictures. I have rebuilt levers =
from Worldwide Auto in three of my TRs and they are great. I even =
have the uprated. I DO NOT recommend them for a TR4 as they are =
really hard. Rides like a buck board with the leaf springs. I am =
switching out to a stock rebuild. Jane at Worldwide mentioned only =
get uprated if you are racing. <span =
class=3D"Apple-converted-space"> </span><o:p =
class=3D""></o:p></div><div style=3D"margin: 0in; font-size: 11pt; =
font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=3D"">Cheers,<o:p =
class=3D""></o:p></div><div style=3D"margin: 0in; font-size: 11pt; =
font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=3D"">Jim Henningsen<o:p =
class=3D""></o:p></div><div style=3D"margin: 0in; font-size: 11pt; =
font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=3D"">Ocala FL<o:p =
class=3D""></o:p></div><div style=3D"margin: 0in; font-size: 11pt; =
font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=3D"">61 3A<o:p =
class=3D""></o:p></div><div style=3D"margin: 0in; font-size: 11pt; =
font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=3D"">62 4<o:p =
class=3D""></o:p></div><div style=3D"margin: 0in; font-size: 11pt; =
font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=3D"">67 4A<o:p =
class=3D""></o:p></div><div style=3D"margin: 0in; font-size: 11pt; =
font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=3D"">75 6<o:p =
class=3D""></o:p></div><div style=3D"margin: 0in; font-size: 11pt; =
font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=3D"">81 8<span =
class=3D"Apple-converted-space"> </span><o:p =
class=3D""></o:p></div><div style=3D"margin: 0in; font-size: 11pt; =
font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=3D""><o:p =
class=3D""> </o:p></div><div class=3D""><div style=3D"border-style: =
solid none none; border-top-width: 1pt; border-top-color: rgb(225, 225, =
225); padding: 3pt 0in 0in;" class=3D""><div style=3D"margin: 0in; =
font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=3D""><b =
class=3D"">From:</b><span =
class=3D"Apple-converted-space"> </span>Triumphs <<a =
href=3D"mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net"; style=3D"color: blue; =
text-decoration: underline;" =
class=3D"">triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net</a>><span =
class=3D"Apple-converted-space"> </span><b class=3D"">On Behalf =
Of<span class=3D"Apple-converted-space"> </span></b>Brian Kemp<br =
class=3D""><b class=3D"">Sent:</b><span =
class=3D"Apple-converted-space"> </span>Sunday, December 06, 2020 =
1:50 PM<br class=3D""><b class=3D"">To:</b><span =
class=3D"Apple-converted-space"> </span>Will Daehler <<a =
href=3D"mailto:will.daehler@gmail.com"; style=3D"color: blue; =
text-decoration: underline;" =
class=3D"">will.daehler@gmail.com</a>>;<span =
class=3D"Apple-converted-space"> </span><a =
href=3D"mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net"; style=3D"color: blue; =
text-decoration: underline;" class=3D"">triumphs@autox.team.net</a><br =
class=3D""><b class=3D"">Subject:</b><span =
class=3D"Apple-converted-space"> </span>Re: [TR] TR4 Investigating =
replacing the Armstrong lever shocks with telescopic rear shock =
conversions<o:p class=3D""></o:p></div></div></div><div style=3D"margin: =
0in; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=3D""><o:p =
class=3D""> </o:p></div><div style=3D"margin: 0in; font-size: 11pt; =
font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=3D"">Will - I'm not as familiar =
with the solid axle of the TR4, so this may or may not be relevant to =
your situation. <span =
class=3D"Apple-converted-space"> </span><br class=3D""><br =
class=3D"">There are at least three styles of tube shock conversions for =
the TR6 and I assume the 4A. The one with three triangular =
brackets that go through the body (likely the one you looked at from =
Moss), A bracket that bolts to the body with no frame attachment, and a =
single plate bracket that bolts to the lever shock mount.<br =
class=3D""><br class=3D"">Also watch for feedback on people that just =
get the lever shocks rebuilt with a heavy duty rebuild. If I was =
starting over, that is probably what I would do.<br class=3D""><br =
class=3D"">A sample of the three plate design at Moss is 670-128 - =
see<span class=3D"Apple-converted-space"> </span><a =
href=3D"https://mossmotors.com/rear-tube-shock-conversion-kits"; =
style=3D"color: blue; text-decoration: underline;" =
class=3D"">https://mossmotors.com/rear-tube-shock-conversion-kits</a><span=
class=3D"Apple-converted-space"> </span>- the Monroe shock version =
for the 4A is available. They have an article at<span =
class=3D"Apple-converted-space"> </span><a =
href=3D"http://www.mossmotoring.com/tr6-tube-shock-conversion/"; =
style=3D"color: blue; text-decoration: underline;" =
class=3D"">http://www.mossmotoring.com/tr6-tube-shock-conversion/</a> =
; It looks like a sturdy design, but takes significant effort to =
install. Read the instructions from their website.<br class=3D""><br=
class=3D"">I do not recommend the bracket that just bolts to the body =
without a frame attachments.<br class=3D""><br class=3D"">I used the =
single plate version because it was much easier, but this design leads =
to flexing of the frame cross member and cracking of the frame, =
including mine. See the 0091, 2217, and 2218 images attached of =
other people's cars discovered at a local club tech clinic. If you =
have this design, I recommend you check the frame cross member =
regularly. If you have the rear spring out for any reason, run the =
trailing arm through its full range of motion and you will probably see =
the top of the shock mount move front to rear.<br class=3D""><br =
class=3D"">After having my frame cracks welded, I built a new version of =
the single plate design available from some vendors. I extended =
the top mount for the shock back about two inches and added two =
braces. One is a length of 1" angle iron that goes between the two =
shock mounts near the top of the bracket, just below the body to side to =
side stability. The other is the more important addition and goes =
from the top of the shock bracket rearward to the frame at about a 45 =
deg angle. This one stops any front to rear motion of the shock =
bracket. Unfortunately the car isn't easily accessible right now =
and I can't find my pictures.<br class=3D""><br class=3D"">Below is an =
item I wrote 20 years ago or so. The 5-6025 kit is the single =
plate design that in my opinion needs at least the added bracket from =
the top of the shock mount to the frame.<br class=3D""><br class=3D""><br =
class=3D""><o:p class=3D""></o:p></div><h2 align=3D"center" =
style=3D"margin-right: 0in; margin-left: 0in; font-size: 18pt; =
font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-weight: bold; text-align: =
center;" class=3D""><span style=3D"" class=3D"">Tube Shock Conversion =
Notes<o:p class=3D""></o:p></span></h2><div style=3D"margin: 0in; =
font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=3D""><span =
style=3D"" class=3D"">Notes on my TR6 tube shock conversion:</span><o:p =
class=3D""></o:p></div><div class=3D""><span style=3D"" class=3D"">> =
Would like to know if anybody on the list has any knowledge or =
experience with<br class=3D"">> the shock conversion kit that v.b. =
sells as part # 5-6025. It is listed on<br class=3D"">> page 11 =
in the summer catalog.......<o:p class=3D""></o:p></span></div><p =
style=3D"font-variant-caps: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; =
widows: 2; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration-thickness: =
initial; word-spacing: 0px;" class=3D""><span style=3D"" class=3D"">I =
put similar brackets on my car. They are the easiest design to =
fit, taking about 30 minutes to install. I purchased my brackets =
from someone who made them for his car for $40. I bought the =
shocks from Pep Boys for $12.95 each. The VB shocks must be pretty =
good to command the $189 price tag. My driving can often be =
aggressive, especially at autocross events (2nd place in class at the =
Moss festival and first overall at Triumphest in 1998). The cheap =
shock seem to work fine for me in the rear, though I may just not know =
any better. The PO put Koni's on the front.<o:p =
class=3D""></o:p></span></p><p style=3D"font-variant-caps: normal; =
orphans: 2; text-align: start; widows: 2; -webkit-text-stroke-width: =
0px; text-decoration-thickness: initial; word-spacing: 0px;" =
class=3D""><span style=3D"" class=3D"">Installation made a tremendous =
improvement in my car, but that's because my lever shocks were =
dead. I've heard lots of good things about the heavy duty rebuilds =
to the lever shocks. Doing it again, I'd give this serious =
thought.<o:p class=3D""></o:p></span></p><p style=3D"font-variant-caps: =
normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; widows: 2; =
-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration-thickness: initial; =
word-spacing: 0px;" class=3D""><span style=3D"" class=3D"">Disadvantages =
of this design:<br class=3D"">- When the car is in the air, the limit =
stop for the trailing arm travel is the tube shock. I had a shock =
fail after only a year (exchanged for free replacement). I think =
the other one may also need replacement, as there's oil on the =
tube. This tension is transferred through the shock to the =
bracket, at a slight angle, torquing the frame cross member that holds =
the shocks and rear differential mounts. I mention this because I =
just discovered several broken welds including both rear differential =
mounts and the crossemember to frame connection near the right shock =
mount. The car had the differential reinforcing brackets installed =
for the DPO. I don't know if the shock conversion caused this, but =
I think it aggravated the problem. (Any comments on this from =
others?)<o:p class=3D""></o:p></span></p><p style=3D"font-variant-caps: =
normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; widows: 2; =
-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration-thickness: initial; =
word-spacing: 0px;" class=3D""><span style=3D"" class=3D"">- You are =
limited in tire width to 205 series tires, which may rub the bracket if =
you have lots of camber or weak springs.<o:p =
class=3D""></o:p></span></p><p style=3D"font-variant-caps: normal; =
orphans: 2; text-align: start; widows: 2; -webkit-text-stroke-width: =
0px; text-decoration-thickness: initial; word-spacing: 0px;" =
class=3D""><span style=3D"" class=3D"">Safety considerations:<br =
class=3D"">- The Gabrial shocks I purchased only have a single nut on =
each end of the shock. The guy I got the brackets through had a shock =
come undone. Your shocks should be double nutted. I used a =
nylocs because I had a box of them, but any nut should work.<o:p =
class=3D""></o:p></span></p><p style=3D"font-variant-caps: normal; =
orphans: 2; text-align: start; widows: 2; -webkit-text-stroke-width: =
0px; text-decoration-thickness: initial; word-spacing: 0px;" =
class=3D""><span style=3D"" class=3D"">- Check the tires and brackets =
for rubbing. I have a little bit on the right side recently, but =
nothing I'm concerned about. I can't see any indication on the =
tire, just some rubber dust on the bracket. I run 205/65 tires and =
will adjust the camber on the right tire.<o:p =
class=3D""></o:p></span></p><p style=3D"font-variant-caps: normal; =
orphans: 2; text-align: start; widows: 2; -webkit-text-stroke-width: =
0px; text-decoration-thickness: initial; word-spacing: 0px;" =
class=3D""><span style=3D"" class=3D"">If your into welding, you can =
make your own brackets looking at the picture. Drop me an e-mail =
and I'll look up the shock number again. It's off 50's Studebakers =
and Cadillacs if I remember correctly.<o:p class=3D""></o:p></span></p><p =
style=3D"font-variant-caps: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; =
widows: 2; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration-thickness: =
initial; word-spacing: 0px;" class=3D""><span style=3D"" class=3D"">The =
Moss kit is an effort to install. It has three triangular brackets =
per side. One to the standard shock mount, the second inside the =
body by the fuel tank, and the third in the wheel well area. The =
first step in the instructions was to remove the fuel tank.<o:p =
class=3D""></o:p></span></p><p style=3D"font-variant-caps: normal; =
orphans: 2; text-align: start; widows: 2; -webkit-text-stroke-width: =
0px; text-decoration-thickness: initial; word-spacing: 0px;" =
class=3D""><span style=3D"" class=3D"">I'd always avoid a shock that =
only bolts to the body. The dampening forces need to go to the =
frame.<o:p class=3D""></o:p></span></p><p style=3D"font-variant-caps: =
normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; widows: 2; =
-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration-thickness: initial; =
word-spacing: 0px;" class=3D""><span style=3D"" class=3D"">Brian<o:p =
class=3D""></o:p></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"margin: 0in =
0in 12pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;"><br =
class=3D""><br class=3D""><o:p class=3D""></o:p></p><div class=3D""><div =
style=3D"margin: 0in; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri, =
sans-serif;" class=3D"">On 12/6/2020 8:34 AM, Will Daehler wrote:<o:p =
class=3D""></o:p></div></div><blockquote style=3D"margin-top: 5pt; =
margin-bottom: 5pt;" class=3D"" type=3D"cite"><div style=3D"margin: 0in; =
font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=3D"">When =
going over bumps in my TR4 I have quite a rattle from the right rear =
area of my car. I have poked around by the axle, and thought I =
have fixed the problem a couple of times. I have replaced the =
springs and refilled the Armstrong shocks. I have poked around. =
While looking through my Moss catalog I noticed the kits for replacing =
the Armstrong shocks with these brackets that you could mount shock =
absorbers to. But the kits are NLS. No Longer Supplied. I =
was wondering why the kits were discontinued. It could have =
been that they caused damage to the frame, or just didn=E2=80=99t =
work. I was hoping somebody had any first-hand knowledge or =
experience on this topic that they could discuss. I wonder if the racing =
group all have custom and proprietary set ups.<o:p =
class=3D""></o:p></div><div style=3D"margin: 0in; font-size: 11pt; =
font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=3D""> <o:p =
class=3D""></o:p></div><div style=3D"margin: 0in; font-size: 11pt; =
font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=3D"">Will Daehler<o:p =
class=3D""></o:p></div><div style=3D"margin: 0in; font-size: 11pt; =
font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=3D"">63 TR4 <o:p =
class=3D""></o:p></div><div style=3D"margin: 0in; font-size: 11pt; =
font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=3D""><br class=3D""><br =
class=3D""><o:p class=3D""></o:p></div><pre style=3D"margin: 0in; =
font-size: 10pt; font-family: "Courier New";" class=3D"">** <a =
href=3D"mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net"; style=3D"color: blue; =
text-decoration: underline;" class=3D"">triumphs@autox.team.net</a> =
**<o:p class=3D""></o:p></pre><pre style=3D"margin: 0in; font-size: =
10pt; font-family: "Courier New";" class=3D""><o:p =
class=3D""> </o:p></pre><pre style=3D"margin: 0in; font-size: 10pt; =
font-family: "Courier New";" class=3D"">Donate: <a =
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class=3D""></o:p></pre><pre style=3D"margin: 0in; font-size: 10pt; =
font-family: "Courier New";" class=3D"">Archive: <a =
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et</a><o:p class=3D""></o:p></pre></blockquote><div style=3D"margin: =
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</div></blockquote></div><br class=3D""></div></body></html>=
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