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Its weird, it sounds ignition related, and you have a Pertronix=2E
That would certainly be enough for me!
On top of that, you've already replaced the coil and rotor=2E
Assuming you kept the old parts, it only takes a couple of minutes to swap=
out the Pertronix=2E I'll bet it at least changes the symptoms to somethin=
g that makes more sense!
Also, check the resistance of each plug wire and the coil high tension lea=
d, from the terminal inside the distributor cap to the end of the wire=2E=
=20
Take the point plate ground lead loose from the distributor body, and chec=
k its resistance to the point plate, while moving and tugging gently on the=
wire=2E It rarely fails, but they can go intermittent without being visibl=
y bad=2E And yes, the Pertronix module relies on a good ground through the =
point plate and that wire=2E
-- Randall
On 12 June 2019 19:45:44 GMT-06:00, Keith Richard Stewart <keithstewart@be=
ll=2Enet> wrote:
>When I took the TR4 (1962) out of winter storage, it started on the
>second
>turn of the key=2E I drove home fine, no problems=2E I cleaned up the car
>for a
>show last weekend=2E When I went to start, it was hard starting, did
>catch and
>ran rough for a few seconds before stalling=2E The starter is a hi-torque
>starter and had lots of "oomph"=2E The rough running was like it was on
>two
>cylinders or less=2E After several more attempts to get it started,
>including
>some starting fluid spray, I put the battery charger on to make sure
>the
>battery was charged fully=2E I attempted a start with the charger on the
>"start" setting with no luck=2E While looking over the engine compartment
>for
>a loose wire or bad connection, I noticed substantial oil leak around
>the
>filter adapter=2E The location was such that it appeared the seeping was
>between the oil filter head and the adapter=2E
>
>=20
>
>Although not associated with the non-start issue, I figured I would
>take
>care of the oil leak, thinking it was the seal between the adapter and
>the
>filter head=2E I drained the oil, removed the filter, installed a new
>filter
>and filled with oil=2E It did seem there was a bit of fuel odor from the
>oil=2E
>I did install a new fuel pump two years ago so I will check that later=2E
>The
>fuel pump was one of TRF's "Made in Italy" pumps=2E The additional start
>attempts since then have not produced any oil seeping out=2E
>
>=20
>
>Back to the start problem=2E The carbs are SU HS6, as on the TR4A=2E I
>removed
>the fuel line at the float bowl and gas pumped out during an attempted
>start=2E The ignition is a Pertronix=2E When I removed the rotor, it look=
ed
>OK,
>but I had a spare in a tune up kit and a separate, red rotor, so I
>tried
>both with no luck=2E To make sure the battery was getting at least 10v to
>the
>Pertronix, I put in a new battery that I had=2E No luck=2E I removed plug
>#1,
>grounded it on the thermostat housing bolt and tried a start=2E I had a
>spark
>right away and almost immediately the car started up=2E Ran roughly -
>there
>were only three cylinders getting spark=2E
>
>=20
>
>I shut off the engine, replaced the spark plug, and tried to start=2E No
>luck=2E
>Very baffling=2E I also had spark on #2, #3, and #4=2E With #2 removed, c=
ar
>starts, Ditto with #3 and #4 removed=2E Once the plug is back in, the car
>will
>not start=2E Voltage at rest is 12=2E75v (have not charged it again after
>several start attempts over the past few days) and drops to 11v during
>starter engagement=2E
>
>=20
>
>I had a new coil on hand so I tried it as well=2E No luck=2E Connections
>from
>the coil to ignition switch and coil to Pertronix are clean and secure=2E
>
>=20
>
>All plug leads and the distributor lead are clean and secure=2E Battery
>connections are clean and secure=2E Battery putting out 12-14v=2E
>Connections at
>the starter solenoid and the starter are clean and secure=2E
>
>=20
>
>I think that is everything I have tried to date=2E Any suggestions are
>most
>welcome=2E
>
>=20
>
>=20
>
>Keith Stewart
>
>keithstewart@bell=2Enet
>
>=20
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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3D"EN-CA" link=3D"#056=
3C1" vlink=3D"#954F72">Its weird, it sounds ignition related, and you have =
a Pertronix=2E<br>That would certainly be enough for me!<br>On top of that,=
you've already replaced the coil and rotor=2E<br><br>Assuming you kept the=
old parts, it only takes a couple of minutes to swap out the Pertronix=2E =
I'll bet it at least changes the symptoms to something that makes more sens=
e!<br><br>Also, check the resistance of each plug wire and the coil high te=
nsion lead, from the terminal inside the distributor cap to the end of the =
wire=2E <br><br>Take the point plate ground lead loose from the distributor=
body, and check its resistance to the point plate, while moving and tuggin=
g gently on the wire=2E It rarely fails, but they can go intermittent witho=
ut being visibly bad=2E And yes, the Pertronix module relies on a good grou=
nd through the point plate and that wire=2E<br>-- Randall<br><br><div class=
=3D"gmail_quote">On 12 June 2019 19:45:44 GMT-06:00, Keith Richard Stewart =
<keithstewart@bell=2Enet> wrote:<blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" sty=
le=3D"margin: 0pt 0pt 0pt 0=2E8ex; border-left: 1px solid rgb(204, 204, 204=
); padding-left: 1ex;">
<div class=3D"WordSection1"><p class=3D"MsoNormal">When I took the TR4 (19=
62) out of winter storage, it started on the second turn of the key=2E I dr=
ove home fine, no problems=2E I cleaned up the car for a show last weekend=
=2E When I went to start, it was hard starting, did catch and ran rough for=
a few seconds before stalling=2E The starter is a hi-torque starter and ha=
d lots of =E2=80=9Coomph=E2=80=9D=2E The rough running was like it was on t=
wo cylinders or less=2E After several more attempts to get it started, incl=
uding some starting fluid spray, I put the battery charger on to make sure =
the battery was charged fully=2E I attempted a start with the charger on th=
e =E2=80=9Cstart=E2=80=9D setting with no luck=2E While looking over the en=
gine compartment for a loose wire or bad connection, I noticed substantial =
oil leak around the filter adapter=2E The location was such that it appeare=
d the seeping was between the oil filter head and the adapter=2E<o:p></o:p>=
</p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">Alth=
ough not associated with the non-start issue, I figured I would take care o=
f the oil leak, thinking it was the seal between the adapter and the filter=
head=2E I drained the oil, removed the filter, installed a new filter and =
filled with oil=2E It did seem there was a bit of fuel odor from the oil=2E=
I did install a new fuel pump two years ago so I will check that later=2E =
The fuel pump was one of TRF=E2=80=99s =E2=80=9CMade in Italy=E2=80=9D pump=
s=2E The additional start attempts since then have not produced any oil see=
ping out=2E<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p><p cl=
ass=3D"MsoNormal">Back to the start problem=2E The carbs are SU HS6, =
as on the TR4A=2E I removed the fuel line at the float bowl and gas pumped =
out during an attempted start=2E The ignition is a Pertronix=2E When I remo=
ved the rotor, it looked OK, but I had a spare in a tune up kit and a separ=
ate, red rotor, so I tried both with no luck=2E To make sure the battery wa=
s getting at least 10v to the Pertronix, I put in a new battery that I had=
=2E No luck=2E I removed plug #1, grounded it on the thermostat housing bol=
t and tried a start=2E I had a spark right away and almost immediately the =
car started up=2E Ran roughly =E2=80=93 there were only three cylinders get=
ting spark=2E<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p><p =
class=3D"MsoNormal">I shut off the engine, replaced the spark plug, and tri=
ed to start=2E No luck=2E Very baffling=2E I also had spark on #2, #3, and =
#4=2E With #2 removed, car starts, Ditto with #3 and #4 removed=2E Once the=
plug is back in, the car will not start=2E Voltage at rest is 12=2E75v (ha=
ve not charged it again after several start attempts over the past few days=
) and drops to 11v during starter engagement=2E<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3D"M=
soNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">I had a new coil on h=
and so I tried it as well=2E No luck=2E Connections from the coil to igniti=
on switch and coil to Pertronix are clean and secure=2E<o:p></o:p></p><p cl=
ass=3D"MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">All plug lead=
s and the distributor lead are clean and secure=2E Battery connections are =
clean and secure=2E Battery putting out 12-14v=2E Connections at the starte=
r solenoid and the starter are clean and secure=2E<o:p></o:p></p><p class=
=3D"MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">I think that is =
everything I have tried to date=2E Any suggestions are most welcome=2E<o:p>=
</o:p></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal=
"><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"mso-fareast-la=
nguage:EN-CA">Keith Stewart<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><sp=
an style=3D"mso-fareast-language:EN-CA">keithstewart@bell=2Enet<o:p></o:p><=
/span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p></div></blockquote></=
div></body></html>
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