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Re: [TR] Crane Electronic Ignition

To: "'Dan Cronin'" <adcronin@mi.rr.com>, "'Triumph List'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Crane Electronic Ignition
From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 22 Oct 2015 14:14:36 -0700
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: triumphs@autox.team.net
Thread-index: AdENA8ROtCXSn4a+RJuDM42X3lG/EwACXuFw
>   It seems that the spring 
> steel attaching tabs on the caps protrude into the interior 
> of the cap just where the new electronic optical trigger sits 
> on the mounting bracket. 

The Crane setup is a "one size fits none" arrangement.  When I installed an 
XR3000 on my 59 TR3A, I found that I had to cut off the
bottom of the bracket that holds the pickup to make it fit properly.

You may also need to change that rotor.  I had one that looked very similar (if 
not identical), and it was brushing the pickup as it
turned, causing no end of strange ignition problems.

Good luck with your XR3000.  I never was all that happy with mine, it 
eventually wound up back in the parts bin and I use points
today.  Changing points once or twice a year is a whole lot less hassle than I 
went through to get the Crane to work; and it always
seemed to me that the engine ran stronger with points.  I switched back and 
forth several times before figuring out the rotor thing.
Dying one night in the rain didn't exactly endear it to me either.  (Granted, I 
probably should have gotten the ground screw tighter
to begin with.)

Don't forget the obligatory fiddling with the phasing.  I never did understand 
why it needed to be different than with points, but
the engine definitely ran better with it off by 10 or 15 degrees.

Oh yeah, and don't forget it won't work properly with the stock coil.  You have 
to switch to a 1.5 ohm coil.  The instructions I got
weren't especially clear, but I confirmed that with Crane.

Randall


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