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Greetings all:
My Spit bodied GT6 w/ TR6 engine has been suffering from ignition
problems. Started hundreds of miles ago where the engine would
occasionally die at idle. With a small amount of choke the engine would
idle OK and after sitting (cooling down) all was well and the problem was
gone for a while. The occasions have become consistent so that I need
choke to keep the idle above 1500 rpm. Engine stumbles and is rough
running till past 2500 rpm. This is much more common when the engine has
warmed up - say driven 3+ miles. I've checked the air/fuel ratio when the
engine is running rough and stumbling and it is at about 12.5:1. This
evening at hot idle, I bypassed the coil, points & condenser using an
ignition bypass box and the engine idles great - switch back to the Triumph
ignition components and the engine dies in less than 30 sec. Point gap is
correct, distributor was rebuilt by Advance Dist about 800 miles ago with
new points, condenser, rotor and cap. The resistance of the high tension
lead from coil to distributor is less that 1000 ohm, but I have new plug
wires on order anyway. BTW, this engine still starts very well - the
starter rarely turns the engine a complete revolution before the engine
fires.
What are the symptoms of a condenser going bad? What else could it be?
I'm very time challenged at the moment and need to hit a home run if I am
going to be able to drive it for the next several weeks (and there are not
that many weeks left before the roads get salted). I've run a Crane XR-700
for the past 15+ years and with as fast as the engine starts, I figured
that I would run the points for a season or two before going back to the
Crane ignition. I'm off to bed and look forward to your responses in
digest mode. TIA
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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div><div>Greetings all:<br><br></div>My Spit bodied GT6 w=
/ TR6 engine has been suffering from ignition problems.=C2=A0 Started hundr=
eds of miles ago where the engine would occasionally die at idle.=C2=A0 Wit=
h a small amount of choke the engine would idle OK and after sitting (cooli=
ng down) all was well and the problem was gone for a while.=C2=A0 The occas=
ions have become consistent so that I need choke to keep the idle above 150=
0 rpm.=C2=A0 Engine stumbles and is rough running till past 2500 rpm.=C2=A0=
This is much more common when the engine has warmed up - say driven 3+ mil=
es.=C2=A0 I've checked the air/fuel ratio when the engine is running ro=
ugh and stumbling and it is at about 12.5:1.=C2=A0=C2=A0 This evening at ho=
t idle, I bypassed the coil, points & condenser using an ignition bypas=
s box and the engine idles great - switch back to the Triumph ignition comp=
onents and the engine dies in less than 30 sec.=C2=A0=C2=A0 Point gap is co=
rrect, distributor was rebuilt by Advance Dist about 800 miles ago with new=
points, condenser, rotor and cap.=C2=A0 The resistance of the high tension=
lead from coil to distributor is less that 1000 ohm, but=C2=A0 I have new =
plug wires on order anyway.=C2=A0 BTW, this engine still starts very well -=
the starter rarely turns the engine a complete revolution before the engin=
e fires.<br><br></div>What are the symptoms of a condenser going bad?=C2=A0=
What else could it be?=C2=A0=C2=A0 I'm very time challenged at the mom=
ent and need to hit a home run if I am going to be able to drive it for the=
next several weeks (and there are not that many weeks left before the road=
s get salted).=C2=A0 I've run a Crane XR-700 for the past 15+ years and=
with as fast as the engine starts, I figured that I would run the points f=
or a season or two before going back to the Crane ignition.=C2=A0 I'm o=
ff to bed=C2=A0 and look forward to your responses in digest mode.=C2=A0 TI=
A<br></div>
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