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Re: [TR] More help needed

To: John Summers <rivers2hills@yahoo.com>, "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] More help needed
From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2013 09:33:21 -0500
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On 12/16/2013 10:58 PM, John Summers wrote:
> HELP!!! I'm at my wits end!!
John,

First the clutch. Black means your seals are shot. I would remove the MC 
and SC and rebuild/replace. Flush out the lines with alcohol as Randal 
suggested.

Also replace the plastic line with a SS one from Ted S. ( 
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com/ ) At this time it is also a good 
idea to replace the plastic oil pressure line with a SS line from Ted S.

I went with Dot 5 but it is not necessary.

The fact that your thrust washers are bad or dropped into the pan will 
not make your clutch fluid go black.

If your TW have dropped into your pan, your crank may be shot. ALso it 
is possible that the rear most end cap may also be shot which means a 
new block. (Caps are drilled to match the block and a new cap would have 
to be drilled accordingly.)

I would check your end float asap. If it is out of spec., remove the oil 
pan and check to see if the washers have dropped out. If so, pull the 
engine and maybe a complete rebuild is in order.

Rebuilding a 6 engine is not that hard if all the existing engine 
parts/block is in decent shape.

Get an engine stand and get a hold of an expert such as Wishbone ( 
http://www.wbclassics.com/ ) for advice and good parts. There are others 
but Wishbone was very helpful with my 72 rebuild.

As far as power upgrades, I have no advice. The only thing I did with my 
6 was replace the ZS carbs with Hitachi SU HS6 and added an electronic 
fuel pump. Rest is stock. The HS6 upgrade was not for power but for 
reliability and my knowledge of ZS carbs is zero.

Goodparts ( http://goodparts.com/ ) are a good source of upgrade 
parts/advice.

I have rebuilt both 3/4 engines and a 6 and I have to say that the 6 is 
much easier.

Good luck.

Bob

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