Hi John,
Thanks for the response. My TR3 runs antifreeze at a 50-50 mixture and has
only about 5000 miles on the coolant. I will check all that you recommend.
As many considerations as possible are welcomed since the head will be
pulled off, once I check the carb jets.
Alex
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Macartney" <flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk>
To: "Randall" <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>; "'*Triumphs List'"
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2011 4:36 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Mystery Smoke Update
> Alex
>
> As usual, Randall has given some excellent advice which is all worth
> following through. This comment is something of a long-shot but if you get
> to
> removing the cylinder head, I'd recommend having a thorough look around
> the
> coolant areas of the cylinder liners, especially behind #4 where it backs
> up
> to the block. While I've only owned two or three wet liner TR's a long
> time
> ago that were trouble-free, I've had far more recent exposure to the
> Ferguson
> tractor engine which, while different in many ways, does share
> commonalties
> with the TR 4 pot. The presence of 'crud' behind and around #4 cyl has
> caused
> all sorts of frustrating problems and usually this is because the many
> surviving examples of the TA and TE series is that because they're mostly
> used
> in comfortable outside temps, many owners literally use straight tap or
> rain
> water as a coolant. In areas where high levels of lime are present in the
> water supply, this leads to rapid lime build up and
> obviously restricted water flow which in turn brings on other problems.
> As I
> say, this is a long-shot and if you are running pure tap or rain water as
> your
> coolant, the addition of year round anti-freeze with its 'crud
> annihilators'
> would be sensible - even if you do live in a hot year round climate.
>
> Jonmac
|