Well, I had thought the same thing. I used a slightly undersize reamer to
account for this and for wobble when manually turning the reamer. I also
put a slight bevel on the corner of the cutting flutes so there is no burr
that may take off more metal than planned.
It seemed to work OK, but I'd recommend working on a junk carb first to
check out your success. Also, you can look for the source for the piloted
reamer that is used by Joe Curto.
-Tony
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Marr
Sent: Friday, March 18, 2011 8:56 AM
To: spamiam@comcast.net ; triumphs@autox.team.net ; nafzigerg@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 5, Issue 96
My concern with modifying the reamer by hand is that you could make the
reamer cut oversize, which kind of negates the whole purpose of using the
reamer in the first place. But this is just my opinion, which, when coupled
with 99 cents, might buy you a bag of Peanut M&Ms which some people would
say are by far the more valuable part of the duo! :)
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: <spamiam@comcast.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>; <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>
Sent: Friday, March 18, 2011 7:33 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 5, Issue 96
> Gary,
>
> I had an easy time using a dremel cut-off wheel to make the back-cuts on
> the flutes to get it to cut toward the shank. It was easy enough to do by
> hand. I'm not sure I would shell out $80 to have it professionally done,
> though I am sure the results are "better". If I were going to spend that
> kind of cash, I would look into getting a real piloted
-----
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