> This would seem to make sense when the engine is off. But when the
> water pump is pushing water, or pulling it whatever, would it fill the
> head even if the radiator is just half full?
Yup, as long as the pump is sucking water, it will fill the block and head.
In my experience, the main problem shows up when there isn't enough water
left in the radiator to be cooled (meaning what water there is gets too hot
and boils).
Keep an eye on the temp gauge, and if it jumps around (indicating the pump
is sucking air) or starts reading high, stop immediately and add water.
Otherwise you aren't likely to damage anything. I've driven for months
(maybe even years) with a leaking radiator, by just adding water when
needed.
I'll add that IMO there is no practical way to repair the radiator in situ.
Corrosion, hard water deposits, etc. make it impossible to get solder (or JB
Weld) to adhere without cleaning thoroughly. Better IMO to just bite the
bullet, pull the apron off, and have a radiator shop do the repair.
If it is cracked where the extension joins the top tank (which is where mine
always crack and leak), talk to the shop about reinforcing the joint. I did
just that a few months ago, and they added copper tubing all around the
joint, soldered to both tank and extension, as reinforcement. Too soon to
say how well it will hold up, but it looks like it should. And once it's
painted black, it's almost unnoticeable.
BTW, a 7/16" GearWrench makes removing the apron a whole lot easier. I got
mine off this time in under an hour (partly because I didn't have to pull
the grille). You might also give some thought to what other things to do
while the apron is off ... I installed an electric fan and replaced the
front crankshaft seal.
-- Randall
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