In a message dated 7/7/2008 10:05:14 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
tr3driver@ca.rr.com writes:
That's my opinion. It's a lot of work to beat the sheetmetal back to where
you can keep the filler as thin as it should be; so most shops just get it
kind of close then plaster on the Bondo. Some pros feel that multiple
layers are OK as long as each layer doesn't exceed 1/4"; while others I've
talked to say that anything more than one layer (of less than 1/4") is
asking for trouble.
When I had a (cheap) shop do my TR3A, there was a 2" diameter spot that just
flaked off (taking the paint with it of course). A friend of mine who
worked in a body shop took one look and said "too thick".
Lots of other things (including temperature) that should be "just so" and
frequently aren't. The high-end body shops actually air-condition the area,
just to control temperature and humidity; plus let the car sit overnight so
the metal matches the air temp.
Here's some more info :
http://www.roadsters.com/filler/
I bought a "rust free" 63 E Type several years ago. It was all primed and
had been someones 20 year project. I used an ice pick and scratched several
places and founf them to be sold. The ship where I took the body started
sanding
the car and as they sanded into the filler, they found rust. The body had
rusted under the filler everywhere the owner had used filler. It wasn't that
big a deal because none of the bondo was very thick, but it required all the
old bondo to be removed and the body sanded to bare steel. I wish I knew
exactly what the PO did wrong. I normally use metal prep and a rinse and dry
before
I put any filler on.
Mike Moore 59 TR3A
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