In a message dated 8/29/2005 9:55:13 AM Central Standard Time,
wsteinman@pogolaw.com writes:
> Howdy all. Well, it's been two days, and I already have a list of
> questions. Any input would be welcome and appreciated!
>
> 1. On my drive into work this morning, the windshield wipers started
> turning on intermittently. I could get them to shut off by toggling the
> switch down. The switch sometimes doesn't work when I push the top to go
> right to the fast speed. I usually have to push the bottom to start on
> the slow speed, and then push the top of the swtich to get them to go
> fast. Short? Switch going bad?
When the wipers come on is it proceeded by a sharp discharge indication on
the ammeter and do the wipers do a single wipe and stop? If so then the dash
switch is obviously an original "Clear Hooters" brand switch. I had that
problem but replaced it with a quality Lucas which has worked perfectly since.
It
did require a little dash modification since the switch body is larger
(although the rocker part is not).
>
> 2. The windshield washer pump makes noise when I hit the switch, but
> doesn't spray fluid. Not a huge deal, but I presume that it simply
> needs to be primed. I haven't held it on for very long out of a fear of
> burning it out. How long does it take to spray?
I've never had working washers in an old Brit car. I think it is because the
sprayers get clogged with car wax and will not pass anything. That's my
current working theory anyway. Someday I'll try soaking them in lacquer
thinner
but till then I'll do without. In fact, I have yet to fill the reservoir in my
TR8 since putting it on the road in 2000.
>
> 3. The hazard switch is dead. It has a new relay, so I'm pretty sure
> it's the switch. I've heard that the switches currently available
> aren't exact copies. Is this the case?
I dunno
>
> 4. The instrument lights don't work. The warning lights, high beam
> lights and turn signal lights all work, but not the instrument
> back-lights. I presume this means the rheostat switch has gone bad.
That would be where I'd start. If your rheostat has the double blade
connectors you can connect the red and the red/white wires on the same terminal
and
bypass the rheostat as a test (or a permanent solution if you prefer).
>
> 5. At speed, the ammeter switch stays exactly in the middle. At
> stoplights, however, it goes to discharge very slightly if I have any of
> the electricals. If I put the turn signals on at a stop light, it
> bounces to the right a tiny bit every time the flasher clicks. Do I
> have a problem?
Nope. That's normal. My TR6 has done that for the 20 years I've owned it
and it's never been a problem.
>
> Thanks so much for everyone's help! I really appreciate it!
>
The fun is about to begin.
Cheers
Dave Massey
57 TR3
71 TR6
80 TR8
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