Hi,
Just wanted to add this listing I picked up at the Healey list to add to
info on the subject. I bought my SU pump for an AH because they too
usually run SU carbs so I figured it should be compatable. The listing
will follow this question.
Finally looked under the hood of my project for numbers and see that what
I took for a pair of 45 DCOEs is in fact a pair of 42 DCOEs. I will of
course buy a Webber book before launching in, but for now does anyone
know abouty the 42s?
A lister was having flooding probs w/ his SU tricarbs. Here's his answ.
Kurt:
SU carbs are designed to operate with a fuel pressure below 3# - the float
needles will start to lift off their seats above that, and not necessarily
all together, depending on the slight differences from carb to carb in float
level settings.
As long as you fuel pump is not delivering excess pressure, your problem
lies elsewhere. These carbs tend to get a bit 'floody' when at hot idle in
traffic on a hot day just from heat soak. Possibly your heat shield
insulation is not right - the tri-carb has insulation on both sides of the
shield. Are the insulator blocks (the book calls them distance pieces) and
all gaskets in place at the carb mountings?
You don't indicate which float system you have - the HS4's in the tri-carbs
used brass floats early on, and nylon floats in the later cars, and the
float bowl lid was a different part on each. If you have a mismatch of
float bowl parts, you could have problems there.
SU carbs by nature tend to be touchy on dirt in the fuel - even small bits
can cause flooding. The HS4 carb used on the tri-carb has no fuel filtering
system at all, other than the 'sort of sediment bowl design' at the bottom
of the float bowls. Are you using an inline fuel filter somewhere in the
fuel line? I have found that doing so will eliminate 90% (or more) of float
bowl flooding problems.
Let us know how it turns out.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BT7 tri-carb
BJ8
TIA Ed TR3a
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