OK, I pulled off the wheel and checked all the moving parts. Nothing
obviously wrong. All the U-J's seemed decent, but the one inside the
trailing arm is somewhat hard to test. Between the brake drum and the outer
half of the half shaft (outer 1/4 shaft?) there is a tiny amount of play,
but I can not tell for sure. The nuts on the studs retaining the brake drum
and splined wheel hub are so tight I could not brake them free by hand. I
need an impact wrench for them. So, I did not get any deeper into the works
of the rear-end.
The brake drum was dragging at one point in its rotation (for some unknown
reason... out of true?) and I slacked off the adjuster one flat. Drag was
gone AND the clunk was gone after a brief drive. Now I will see what
happens over time.
-Tony
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Brister" <brister@tiscali.fr>
To: "Anthony Rhodes" <spamiam@comcast.net>
Cc: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 31, 2004 6:28 AM
Subject: Re: IRS Clunk
> You don't need to do anything drastic to repair the diff mount. You just
> jack the car up as high as you can, disconnect the UJ's, drop the diff
unit,
> and if you are'nt a skilled welder, get your local friendly one to come
> round.
>
> Whilst you have the diff off it's an idea to empty the oil from it and
> replace it with new for the next umpteen years as there is no drain plug!
>
> David Briste1967 TR4A IRS with repaired diff mount.
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