Don and all listers,
A thin "smear" of grease to prevent corrosion is all that is needed! I have
wondered why there is always gobs of grease in the hubs also, but over 40
years ago I was taught by lubrication experts at several oil companies whose
stations I owned and/or managed, that the extra grease was unneeded and
should be removed and not put back.
Jim Bauder
'58 TR3
(New!) '68 TR250
Scottsdale, AZ
-----Original Message-----
From owner-6pack at autox.team.net [mailto:owner-6pack@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of Don Malling
Sent: Tuesday, July 27, 2004 5:11 PM
To: Greg Dito; Paula J. Graffam; 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Wheel bearing racers
Great timing Al... I am doing the same thing tonight.
One additional question. I have bead blasted and painted all my
suspension pieces. Before blasting and painting, I removed all the
grease that was inside the hub. Every hub I have had apart (less than 4)
was always packed with grease. Why? I assume I will need to repack the
hub with grease along with packing the bearings, but what is the point
of all that grease inside the hub, and how much is enough?
Thanks,
Don Malling
Greg Dito wrote:
> Al,
>
> You should definitely, without question, replace the races when replacing
the bearings.
>
> It's very simple to knock out the old race. Lay the rotor and hub
assembly down and, with a bright light, look down into the hub center.
Inside on the opposite side (the race facing down) you will see two small
cutouts that exposes part of the underside of the race. A nail
counterpunch, screwdriver, or any long metal object that can fit in that
undercut will work. Give the punch a good number of firm taps (great force
is usually not needed) alternating between the two cutouts and the race will
slowly creep out of the hub. This is done for both sides of each hub.
>
> Installing new races requires a drift that places an equal load across the
race's entire top edge as it is either pressed or tapped down into the hub.
Gentle taps will also work as you move the "tool" around the race's top
edge, in alternating opposite side taps, bringing the race fully home in the
hub recess. I use a piece of delrin for this as it is hard enough to strike
with a hammer but soft enough not to damage the race. Again, a great amount
of force is not needed. Just be very careful that you do not cock the race
as it goes into the hub. And clean out the hub, (degreasing it would be
ideal) to remove the old grease and any debris before installing new
bearings.
>
> Alternately, any machine shop can do this for you for a very reasonable
cost.
>
> Greg Dito
> CD6250L
>
>
>>From: Al Graffam... <pjgraffam@juno.com>
|