> Can the front sealing block be removed and the cork gaskets
> replaced?
Yes.
> If so,
> does the interface with the engine front plate require any
> special handling
> or sealants?
Yes, the paper gasket between the front plate and the block will tear.
Replace it with "form a gasket".
> What about the felt strips in the rear seal? Should I pull out
> the old ones
> and reinstall new?
I wouldn't, unless you're planning to do the main bearings at the same time.
(Which, IMO, is a good idea.) The only practical way to remove the felt is
to remove the rear main cap, which can be difficult. (I made up a simple
puller last time I did mine.)
> If so, what's the recommended goo in which to
> soak them?
Permatex Aviation Form-a-Gasket will do, or you can pay more for Wellseal.
> What's the right technique for stuffing them back in?
Cut them into sections about 1" long before soaking them. You'll need some
sort of drift that will fit into the hole ... I use a length of aluminum rod
from a motorhome dump valve.
> Any other tips?
If you do remove the main caps, only remove one at a time so the crank never
hangs on the front seal. Unless your engine is pretty fresh, wouldn't hurt
to change the rod bearings while you're in there. ISTR one of the books
recommends doing it every 30,000 miles as PM.
Randall
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