> Ever since I acquired the 3, it has a tendency to wander. Once
> "set up" it
> will track reasonable straight, but when moving to either direction, its
> like there is a lot of play in the suspension. Since I was going
> to remove
> the radiator (for other issue!) I decided it was now time to do something
> about the TR's interesting handling problem.
Doug, it sounds to me like the missing race is the majority of your problem
!
Sorry, I'm not sure from your description if the box is too stiff or not. I
can turn mine by turning the front wheels, but it does take a fair amount of
force.
If you're going to have the apron off anyway, I would definitely take this
opportunity to rebuild the steering box. I was absolutely amazed at the
difference it made in my car, and wasn't all that difficult or expensive.
The box can be removed from the later cars without pulling the apron, but
having the apron out of the way certainly makes it easier.
I was able to pull the old bushing and seal; and install the new bushing;
using a length of threaded rod, some nuts, and an assortment of sockets and
washers. ISTR the book says the new bushing needs to be reamed, but mine
didn't. Check the shaft carefully, if it's worn where the seal rides, you
might want to look for another shaft. A groove big enough to feel with your
fingernail is likely to cause problems, anything smaller can probably be
polished out with some crocus cloth. IMO there should be no visible mark
left where the old seal rode.
The peg is easy and cheap, just replace it. The worm is a different
question, I wound up reusing mine in spite of it's appearance.
Although not a necessity, I would suggest getting a cheap dial indicator to
set the end float. I tried setting mine by feel first, the dial indicator
said I was off by .004" which will cause some play. Enco frequently has an
indicator and base set on sale for under $25 :
http://www.use-enco.com/hotdeals/hd0803/11.pdf
Back off the peg adjustment entirely while setting the end float, then bring
it back down until you can just barely feel a snug spot as you turn the
shaft. My worm was worn enough that the snug spot was off to one side
rather than in the center, so check through the entire range. I believe
getting this adjustment too tight in the car was the reason my worm was in
such bad shape.
While the box is out, check the rest of the steering for binding. There
should be no noticeable tightness at all, mine literally flopped around (but
I do use all-metal "frictionless" silentbloc replacements). I also use full
synthetic Valvoline gear oil, which I think also helps. The result is a car
that steers easier than any non-power assisted car I've ever driven.
Randall
/// triumphs@autox.team.net mailing list
/// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
|