> Playing around with the rocker I could get it to make a metallic
> tapping sound, so I pulled the rocker shaft assy and found the
> pushrod had a loose ballcup.
The cup should definitely not be loose, it's time to replace the pushrod.
> Not sure if this was an issue or
> not, but I filled the pushrod up with oil, put everything back,
> adjusted one more time and the tappings gone!
Pushrods are hollow for a reason, and it's not so they can be filled with
oil. The stock TRactor motor has trouble with valve float on the exhaust
valves anyway ... you've just made it worse.
> But, #4 now was tapping. After several attempts of adjusting to
> different clearances it seemed that .007" seemed best for noise,
> not the .010" like the manual claims. The cam is stock.
If you don't run the motor at all, it won't make noise either. Running the
valves deliberately set too tight may well lead to this ... those clearances
are specified for a reason. Yes, they make a bit of noise when cold.
> Couple of questions came to mind as I went through this. 1.) Was
> I really adjusting the valves correctly?
Good question. Have you examined the tips of the rocker arms for wear ? If
they are worn unevenly, you may be getting a false reading with a feeler
gauge. Wear in the shaft or bushings may also cause false readings. Ditto
severely worn cam lobes or lifters. A Clickadjust will help with the false
readings, but of course it would be better to repair/replace the worn parts.
I was very pleased with Rocker Arm Specialists in Anderson, CA.
530-378-1075 (NFI, etc.)
> 2). The pushrods have a hole in the ballcup but
> nothing at the other end (tappet). Should they be filled with
> oil?
AFAIK, that hole should not communicate with the interior of the hollow
pushrod. The pushrods are hollow to reduce reciprocating mass (hence reduce
valve float)
> Most of the pushrods ballcups would not come off, thus my
> last question 3) Should they come off and is this an issue?
They should not come off, and I believe if the caps are loose, the pushrod
should be replaced. The body of the rod is fairly soft, and if the cap
moves at all relative to it, the constant pounding will quickly damage it.
The end caps are harder and beefier to withstand the shock.
BFE sells a nice set of uprated pushrods for not much more than the price of
stock ones. (626) 443-0939 (likewise NFI, but Ken is a friend and a member
of my local club).
Randall
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