On Thu, 6 Feb 2003, at around 10:38:41 local time, Dave Massey
<105671.471@compuserve.com> wrote:
>Message text written by Michael Hargreave Mawson
>>Front Camber
>>^^^^^^^^^^^^
><snip>
>As was pointed out earlier, the camber is constantly changing as the car
>moves up and down due to the unequal lengths of the upper and lower A-arms.
> This is why it is recommended to set the suspension with the car loaded as
>normal.
Got it. As far as I know, the wheel alignment centre I used measures
the camber without a driver in the driver's seat - and presumably makes
adjustments with this in mind.
> Setting the camber and then changing the springs will likely cause
>the car to sit at a different height and cause the camber to change.
Splendid - that explains that, then.
>Camber differences can cause the car to pull to one side. So will caster
>differences (side to side)
Understood.
>
>
>>Front Caster
>>^^^^^^^^^^^^
>>All the front suspension bushes (and, indeed, all the front suspension
>>components) were replaced within the last month, so it seems that I
>>would need to shim the A-arm mount to bring the front caster in line
>>with spec. However, the consensus appears to be that this is
>>unnecessary. That's good. :-)
>
>I disagree with that. If the car was re-aligned recently (before the
>bushing replacement) then the adjustments were made to compensate for the
>bushes sagging and deformation. Replacing the bushings will put the
>geometry back to niminal and the previous alignment is now incorrect and a
>realignment is recommended.
Sorry, I seem to have misled you here. I had the alignment done
immediately *after* I had changed all the suspension components.
Theoretically, therefore, the wheels should now be aligned correctly.
>
>>Front Toe
>>^^^^^^^^^
>>Fourteen months ago, my toe was set within the specified parameters at
>>+11 mins. When the car went in for alignment this year, it was -18
>>mins. What causes this? Pot-holes?
>
>Changing the suspension bushings could cause this. Or even a little
>settling in the bushings. Or the car setting a little higher or lower on
>the springs could cause that. 28 minutes is not much.
OK, thanks.
>
>>Rear Camber
>>^^^^^^^^^^^
<snip>
>Once again, the suspension should be checked with the normal expected load
>in the car. Load the driver's seat with enough weight to simulate your
>weight (or sit in it yourself) and be sure the tires are not bound up by
>rolling the car fore and aft before measurement.
>
>They don't call this a swing axle for nothing. If the car is raised off of
>the ground and returned to the ground the tyres will contact the ground in
>a stance that is narrower than normal and the forces applied to the tyres
>will cause the suspension to set higher than normal. Rolling the car will
>allow the tyres to find their desired position.
Understood - thanks again.
>
>>Rear Toe
>>^^^^^^^^
>>Opinions seem divided on this one - so I deduce that the asymmetrical 11
>>min of toe-out is only borderline problematic. Is that a fair
>>assessment? If I did decide that I wanted to remove a shim from the
>>left, how easy is it for a ham-fisted mechanical ignoramus such as I to
>>do this?
>
>Asymetrical rear toe will cause the car to "dog track" which is to say the
>car will drive down the street a bit sideways. This is most common to live
>axle cars with leaf springs where the axle has shifted on the spring on one
>side. I'm not familiar with this suspension but isn't the adjustment for
>this done with shims inserted in the U-joint attachments to the diff?
It may well be. I shall get the manuals out and see if I can track
down the answer.
>
>I hope this helps.
Very much. Thank you once again for all your help - and for your
patience!
ATB
--
Mike
Ellie - 1963 White Herald 1200 Convertible GA125624 CV
Connie - 1968 Conifer Herald 1200 Saloon GA237511 DL
Carly - 1977 Inca Yellow Spitfire 1500 FH105671
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