Hello Jim Wallace,
Visited Vancouver once. Island hopped by ferry from
Seattle, Wash. Beautiful country. Do you live in the
west, east or middle of Canada? Are one of those
tractors your Daily Driver?
To separate the stub axle from the vertical link I
went to a shop with a 60 ton press. They slipped a
pipe longer than the threads of axle over it. This
rested and pushed on the shoulder of the stub axle
where the threads end. Aprox. 5 tons and a loud bang
later the subs were free of the Link. Since they were
charging me the shop minimum of S/.10.00(Nuevos Soles)
= US$3.66 I asked them to free the ball joints from
the links. He grabbed on of the links, rested it on
his anvil and to my horror he started hammering on it,
but seconds later the ball joint popped out. Well you
have eased my mind about this procedure since I feared
damage to the old link which I want to save as a
spare. I have read on these lists to never throw
anything away during a restoration. Good advice
considering the lack of availability of spares here in
Peru and the exorbitant shipping fees and customs
duties to import them.
Cheers, Javier Vidaurre
>Hola Javier,
>Here's a tip I picked up and use all the time: when
>separating something like a tie rod end, get two
>hand sledge hammers, and whack either side of >the
"eye". This momentarily deforms it enough that >the
tapered part just pops out. Ever sense I got the >hang
of this I have never used a puller, and have >never
failed to get one apart. I'm doing a lot
>lately too as I have two 50 year old tractors and a
>TR3 and I'm working on all of them at once (restoring
>the TR3 and one of the tractors, and using the other
>tractor). The trick is to not be afraid to smack them
>pretty hard. I hope you understand what I mean; it's
>kind of hard to explain. Having said all that, when I
>did it, I followed plan 1.
>Saludos, Jim Wallace, Canada
At 08:17 PM 10/9/02 -0600, you wrote:
>>Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2002 13:56:49 -0700 (PDT)
>>From: "Javier Vidaurre Ch."
<vidaurre@rocketmail.com>
>>Subject: RE: Torque Hell and Back
>>
>>Hello Cees Dobbe (spitfire mk3, GT6 mk 2, MGB,
>>Hillman Husky mk1),
>>Nice collection of LBC's you have there.
>>So far answer "B) lightly oiled" is winning but you
>>bring up an interesting point about having the
wheels
>>on the ground when I torque up the axle nut. I have
>>removed both front vertical links, trunnions and
>>upper ball joints from Winston the Herald and left
>>the tie rod levers attached to the ball joints of
>>the tie rods. The tie rod lever attaches to the
>>vertical link at two points, one of them being the
>>stub axle which passes through it just like your
>>Spitfire has.
>>
>>PLAN 1
>>1. Attach and torque ball joint to vertical link at
>>workbench with vise.
>>2. Screw the link into a well oiled trunnion.
>>3. Install the link/trunnion/ball joint assembly to
>>car.
>>4. Pass the stub axle through the link and tie rod
>>lever attaching this with the secondary bolt "finger
>>tight"
>>5. Screw on stub axle Nylock nut and torque not
>>forgetting to torque the secondary bolt.
>>All this with the car up on "blocks".
>>
>>PLAN 2
>>1. Remove tie rod lever arm from car (I do not look
>>forward to separating the ball joint from the lever
>>without a puller)
>>2. Step 1 from above.
>>3. Assemble, tighten and torque stub axle to
>>vertical link and tie rod lever at work bench in a
>>vise.
>>4. Step 2 from above
>>5. Install the link/stub axle/tie rod lever/ball
>>joint/trunnion assemble on car.
>>6. Torque tie rod ball joint to lever.
>>All this with the car up on "blocks".
>
>>I tend to favor PLAN 1. Am I missing something? Am
>>I over thinking this? Partly cloudy and cool here
in
>>Lima. If I had Petunia the Herald convertible
>>restored I would head down the coast to where the
sun
>>shines.
>>
>>Reporting from Peru, Javier Vidaurre
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