roger, my neighbor harrased me to buy the little electronic ingition that
replaces the points (he has a 71 tr6 bought new). i am thrilled that i got
it. finally one thing you don't have to mess with ! put it in and forget it
! (forget timing too). as for the voltage. your meter is very ill. you are
spinning your tires. i say go to sears or radio shack and buy a $10-$20
digital meter. you will be so glad you did ! (i have both). as randall
correctly stated (man that guy is a rolling encyclopedia) you should have 12+
volts with 13v max at the + terminal on the coil always. now that you have
removed the ballast resistor as randall stated you should have zero volts on -
terminal on the coil with points closed and 12v+ on the - terminal with the
points open. period. if you don't have the 12v+ on + terminal, fix that.
heck, you could just run a temp wire directly to the + terminal on your
battery (ala hotwire and joy ride). turning the engine by hand (dist cap is
off so no danger here), you can watch the - terminal on the coil go 12v to
zero. if that does not happen you have a problem with the points / condenser.
it doesn't matter what they are set to at this point as long as they fully
open and close. if you do have the - terminal doing the right thing (zero to
12v) i say put a nice inductive timing light on the coil itself and see if you
get flashing lights as you crank the engine (with the dist cap on of course).
let us know how you do...
larry lstein6@earthlink.net
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