Randall:
Golly, where to begin? When last we corresponded about my electrical
problems with the TR3, you gave some instructions about checking voltage
across A and A1, etc., and also suggested that I might consider an in-line
fuse ahead of my light switch so I wouldn't fry another one.
Well, last night my son-in-law and I confirmed that the wiring under the
bonnet was all in the right places, and we ran through the procedures that
you outlined. Based on the numbers, the VR is shot.
I also crawled under the dash, and found that I completely messed-up the
wiring between the ignition and the light switch (the new one is still on
back-order from Moss - ugh). So, I made the corrections and since I was
there, I put in an in-line fuse. After putting the quick disconnect back on
the neg batt term, the fuse line got hot and the fuse casing got VERY hot,
but the fuse didn't "blow". I assumed I had a wire gauge problem, and
removed the in-line fuse and made correct connections to the light switch
and the ignition. We then held the multi-meter to the batt while I tried to
start the car, and the courtesy lights went dim, and Pat (son-in-law)
actually watched the volts dive from 12+ to about nine in a matter of
seconds. (BTW, car didn't start.) He also told me that the "field" term on
the VR got very hot.
Anyway, thought that since you went to the trouble of giving me such good
diagnostic instructions, that you would like this feedback.
D.
PS: I'm going to take an automotive electronics course at our community
college this fall.
David Dressel
Champaign, IL USA
'67 Jaguar Mk2 3.4
'64 Triumph TR4
'60 Triumph TR3A
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