Micky,
This happens to a lot of people. I've learned that it's much easier to
just remove the distributor and set everything up on the bench in a vise.
Cushion the vise jaws with a block of wood so that the housing of the
distributor doesn't get damaged. You might have to drill a hole in a
block of wood and then saw the block in half at the center of the hole so
that it gets cradled around the round housing of the distributor. Check
the connections with a meter when you're done to be sure that the leads
aren't shorted to grounded. Before removing the distributor, reference
the position of the rotor to something that is stationary or just crank
the engine until it is pointing straight up or down or wherever. Be sure
not to crank the engine while the distributor is removed or you will have
to start from scratch in repositioning the distributor. Years ago I
found this to be much easier when replacing points and condenser on the
slant six engines and now do it on the TR6 because I don't see like I
used to.
Good luck,
Jay Welch, Abington MA
Secretary, "Cape Cod British Car Club"
http://clubs.hemmings.com/capecodbritish/
1973 TR6 driver, 1971 TR6 project
1989 Mustang GT someday morphing into a Factory Five '65 Roadster
>>>>Any basic (or dumb) things I need to check? I have to admit it's
been many years since I've done mechanical repairs of these cars but this
seems fairly basic. Any help would be approciated.
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