Phil,
Your heater valve may be stuck open. Check at the engine to see if the
cable is hooked up properly and if you can open and close the valve by hand.
As far as operation of the system I'm enclosing a rather long explanation
(actually an article I wrote for our newsletter) of how the
heater/vents/scuttle work so you can play around with some other settings.
Basically cool air only comes through the "eye-ball vents" that are in the
dash and under the dash, but in the summer when outside temperatures are
high even that air is hot and since it's passing through a duct with the
firewall being one side of the duct it gets heated up even more. The knob
that controls the flap on the bottom of the heater box should stay closed if
you're going for coolness.
When it's 90+ on a road trip I drive with the top up (with some foil-covered
bubble insulation woven between the top frame), the rear zippered window
down, and the scuttle closed.
Now where'd I put those pieces of insulation? I'm going to need them next
week for the drive to Red Wing.
Bud Rolofson
71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost Parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
Some Hot Air (Tips)
By Bud Rolofson
Not getting the heat you want in your TR4, TR4A, TR250, or TR6? Are you
getting cold air through those dash air vents (the eyeball vents)? These
Triumphs have a heater core that's about the same size of some American
station wagons so the potential for heat is there. The trick is getting
maximum airflow through that heater core and where you need it.
Here's a few tips to help keep you a little warmer when you're out driving
the Triumph during one of our cool winter days or cool summer days for that
matter.
Don't expect to get hot air through the air vents (eyeball vents) in the
dash or the air vents that are under the dash because they are connected to
the heater box "above" the heater core and it's not possible to heat the air
before it comes flowing into your face or on your shins. This is especially
true for you TR4 and TR4A people since your square dash vents don't even
hook up to the heater box. These air vents were designed only for fresh air
and not heated air. If you're trying to heat the interior or get heat to
the defroster/demister vents twist all four of those air vent center knobs
closed. Make sure all four are in working order otherwise you're going to
always get nice fresh (freezing) outside air into the interior and less air
through the heater core.
Heated air can (or should) only come out two places, the defroster/demister
vents or out the bottom of the heater box. This is true for all of the
models mentioned above (and maybe some others I don't know about). Your air
distribution knob on your dash lets you choose which one gets the heated air
and if you have a delicate touch you can get a little going to both.
If you look at a picture of the heater box in a catalog or in a manual
you'll get a better idea of what happens when you pull the air distribution
knob and what that does to the flap controlling air flow through the heater
box. The heater core in the heater box is mounted at an angle between where
the black air hoses connect on both sides of the heater box (highest hoses
are for the dash air vents and lowest hoses for the defroster/demister
vents). With the air distribution knob pushed all the way in the flap stops
airflow through the heater core (by sealing the heater box right below the
heater core) and that's what you want in summer when you want unheated air
coming through those dash air vents. With it pulled to the 1st "detent"
position the flap moves to a position just below the lower black air hoses
so air flows to the defroster/demister vents after it's been heated up
through the heater core. If the air distribution knob is pulled out to the
2nd position the flap opens up the bottom of the heater box and heated air
flows out over the transmission tunnel and heats up your right leg until it
can't take it any more.
Mini Tips:
Those with pre-72 cars should open the scuttle vent cover in the winter. It
increases airflow and thus heat into your interior. Those with post-72 cars
don't have a cover on the scuttle vent only a black plastic grille so it's
open all the time....but I could be wrong about that too.
Try to get leaves and other debris off the heater core either by somehow
vacuuming them up with a small flexible hose duct taped (Red Green would be
proud*) to your shop vac and gently pushed down through the scuttle vent.
Or by blowing some compressed air up through the bottom of the heater box
(back flush it) with the flap open and the scuttle vent open (or grille
off). Two or three leaves on there can be blocking 25-30% of your heat
flow.ask me how I know this.
*The Red Green Show can be found on PBS. He's the Champion of auto repairs
using duct tape.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil Smith" <philip.smith25@verizon.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 29, 2002 8:00 AM
Subject: Heater Stuck Open
> I've noticed that my TR6 seems warmer. I believe my Heater may be stuck
on,
> even though my pull knob is not pulled out. (69 TR6) When I pull out the
fan
> knob, I get hot air. When I open the scuttle vent, I get hot air? Is the
> problem merely that I don't understand the usage of the fan , scuttle or
what.
> Any comments would be appreciated. Thanks in advance
> Phil Smith
> TR6
> under the Triumph list
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