> Can I somehow test the
> control head and its wiring by using a multimeter?
Sure. With the TS switch off and the horn button not pressed, there should
be no connection between any two wires, or between any wire and ground.
With the switch in the RH position, the LightGreen/Red and Green/White wires
should show continuity (1 ohm or less), the Green/Red and Brown/Black wires
should still be open. In the LH position, the LG/R and Green/Red wires
should show continuity, the others open.
Complications :
1) The schematics I've seen show the wire I've referred to as light
green/red as being a solid green wire. All of the control heads I've had
apart however, have the light green with red wire. I don't know if there
was a changeover point, or if the schematics are simply wrong.
2) It's fairly easy to interchange the three green/whatever wires inside the
control head. Not being a purist, I just connect the wires under the hood
so they work. Turn the switch to the RH position and look for the pair of
wires with continuity. Now turn it to the LH position and find the pair of
wires with continuity. The wire that was in both pairs goes to the flasher
(LG/R above), the second wire of the first pair goes to the RH flasher lamps
(G/W above) and the third wire goes to the LH flasher lamps (G/R above).
Starting at the fuse block (there must be power here or other things would
not work), the flasher circuit goes first to the flasher unit on the
bulkhead, through the flasher to the LG/R wire in the control head, through
the switch to either the G/R or G/W wire, and thence to the lamp filaments
front and rear. If the lamps don't light, check at each of these points for
voltage to ground. The front lamps usually have a ground lead (which comes
up to a clip behind the horns), the rear lamps could use one.
Randall
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