I agree with Randall,
Most major oils will sufficiently lube an engine for many many miles, as
long as you change the filter regularly. I've installed a spin-on adapter
to change the oil frequently with ease.
I agree with Fred,
Backwashing an engine is not a good idea, especially with a solvent based
wash. Instead, if you're really paranoid, change the engine oil twice, only
run the car for a few miles before the second change, and get the engine as
hot as you can. I'm not that paranoid but I do change the engine oil with
the engine hot, and waste a quart to flush out the bad stuff at the bottom
of the pan. You'd be surprised at what comes out.
I agree with Joe,
Most engine oils are pretty good, regardless of brand. Most have detergents
in them to "wash" the sludge and suspend it in the oil rather than collect
it at the bottom of the pan. Synthetic oils are better. And, changing the
oil every 3000 miles or so will prevent most sludge buildup. Check out the
VTR site: http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-overview.html
I sympathize with David and Bob,
In order to avoid the rip-offs do the oil change yourself and you won't
have those dilemmas. Or, learn to say "No" and tell them to get it at the
parts store. My local Kragen parts store takes used oil for free. Also, say
"No" to additives.
I REALLY agree with Mark,
These are English cars, correct? English cars, think of sludge. Sludge,
think of English cars. Enough said.
Remember the adage hold true, you get what you pay for.
John in San Diego
'67 TR4A
On Monday, May 06, 2002 9:26 AM, Kinderlehrer
[SMTP:Kinderlehrer@mindspring.com] wrote:
> Thanks Corey. That explanation sounds convincing- until you start to
wonder
> how engines manage 200,000 miles without a flushing, or what that
backward
> pressure will do to things like oil screens that weren't designed in that
> direction, or what damage can particulates too small to be captured by
the
> filter really do, or how byproducts of combustion gets from the top of
the
> pistons to the oil pan.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <corey.sherman@RCN.COM>
> To: <CarlSereda@aol.com>
> Cc: <owner-triumphs@autox.team.net>; <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, May 06, 2002 7:29 AM
> Subject: Re: Engine flushing - off topic, a bit.
>
>
> > The very same incident happened to me just yesterday!
> >
> > I stopped by for a "quick oil change" and they displayed the blacken
oil
> > from my 1999 Passat as though it was a cancerous tumor. "You should
flush
> > the engine immediately"... for only $59.95. When I asked what does it
do,
> > how could it clean the engine without destroying the seals or affecting
> > the lubrication... they pointed to a chart (I guess they didn't know,
just
> > sell the service - that builds my confidence!).
> >
> > I figure I could get three oil changes for the price of one engine
flush.
> > I call a friend, who suggested I run, run fast!
> >
> > I did find this explanation from http://www.autoprofit.com/demo.html
> > appropriately named "Automotive Profit Centers. Their FAQ and media
demo
> was entertaining.
> >
> >
> > How does the machine work?
> > After the oil is drained, adapters connect the machine to the car
through
> > the filter housing and the drain plug port. A heated detergent solution
is
> > then pumped under 42 pounds of pulsating pressure through the oil
> > reservoir, passages, oil pump, and up into the valve train. It back
> > flushes the oil pump and pickup screen of the engine. The solution
breaks
> > up and dissolves sludge throughout the engine and is then vacuum
extracted
> > out of the engine, removing the sludge and debris. The oil lubricating
> > system of the engine is now clean and can function as originally
designed.
> > This process takes approximately 10 minutes
> >
> > If you change the oil regularly, why do you need the service?
> > Through its normal operation, an engine accumulates abrasive particu
lates
> > that increase internal engine friction and wear. The oil filter is
there
> > to remove these particulates, but with 30w oil used in the engine, the
> > filter is unable to filter fine enough to remove all of these
impurities.
> > The longer a customer goes between oil changes, the less effective the
oil
> > filter becomes. The result of these particulates, along with other
> > byproducts of gasoline combustion, is sludge. This sludge and debris
will
> > gradually build up throughout the oil passageways of the engine,
including
> > the oil pump and pickup screen. During a normal oil change, an average
of
> > 1/2 quart of 'sludge' - highly contaminated oil - remains in the
engine.
> > When the new clear oil is added, it is immediately mixed with this
highly
> > contaminated oil. The result is oil that is already ladened with wear
> > accelerating particulates. This condition is readily visible in most
> > engines almost immediately after the oil change, when the dipstick is
> > removed and the oil is visibly 'dirty.' Until the development of the
> > Engine Flush System, there was no way to remove this sludge without
taking
> > the engine apart.
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