I wonder if one should take advantage of the opportunity to weld roll bar
supports to the ream cross-member that holds the shocks. This is the only
way to avoid mounting a heavy roll bar to the light sheet metal floor. I
have no idea if there is a pre-made design floating out there, but I
definitely regret missing the opportunity when I had the body off the frame.
Now I am using big plates to back the bar mounting pads, but it's still not
very good compared to right on the frame.
Mark Hooper
72 TR6
-----Original Message-----
From: StanTR6@aol.com [mailto:StanTR6@aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2002 7:39 AM
To: Greg_Hutmacher@i2.com
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: TR6 Frame off
Greg,
Removing the budy from the tub isn't hard. Assuming you were going to
remove doors, hoods, fenders, windshield, interior, etc. anyway as part of a
restoration, the budy tub itself is not heavy. Do make sure all lines,
cables, wires, etc. are free - once you are certain you have them all, check
again !!
In my case, it took four to lift it off, one at each fender, and three to
put it back, one at each front fender, on at the rear. Two can carry it,
the difficulty is the size and lifting it over the engine. The tub is held
by 25(+/-) bolts. Once they are out, rock it a little, lift the corners to
break bond between the rubber strips on the frame and the floor, any
caulking that may have adheared to the frame, etc., then lift. Best to have
a frame or dolly ready to set it on. Whatever you place the tub on, make
sure it has wheels. I havent seen photos on the list - I'll send a photo of
the frame I built to you off-list.
Diff. supports - by all means !! Roadster Factory has the gusset plates
needed, as well as the studs and replacements for the factory bracket (mine
was cracked, and the attempted weld repair was cracked). Part of the
beefing-up includes a plate welded to the top of the cross member. I guess
the existing support could be cut out and the plate welded in from below,
then a new support and new gussets welded back in; else, part of the raised
floor behind the seats could be cut out for access, and patched back in
later. Since I went with body off, I had two gussets welded in each of the
front mounts, and top plates welded on top of all four studs. Also, the
gussets will result in a boxed in area that could hold water (be difficult
to get water up there, but...), so drill a small drane hole.
Stan
1974 TR6 "kit"
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