"Freeman, Noah" wrote:
>
> Randall-----------
> 5) Measure D to E. This should be around 13-15v, if it is then the
> generator is working. Higher indicates a bad regulator.
>
> Me---------
> 13.5V
>
> Randall---------
> 6) Assuming D-E is under 13v, compare it with A-E. If they are the
> same, the ignition lamp should be out. If not, the wiring to the lamp
> is wrong.
>
> Me--------
> Well, D-E was higher than 13v, but I did it anyway, and got 12.5V
Noah :
Something is wrong with this picture. The ignition lamp on the dash
should (in effect) be connected between the A1 and D terminals, and the
A and A1 terminals should be connected together inside the regulator.
More tests :
9) With everything connected and the engine running at fast idle, check
the voltage between A and A1 on the regulator. It should be less than
0.5v, if not the regulator is definitely bad.
10) If A-A1 is under 0.5, then recheck the voltage between A1 and D
(still at fast idle). It should be below 1.5v (given that D-E was
13.5). If it is, and the red light is on, then there is a wiring
problem between the regulator and the ignition lamp.
>
> Randall------------------
> 7) Also assuming D-E is under 13v, check D-F. It should be under 1.0v,
> if not, the regulator is bad or badly misadjusted. One exception to
> this is if the ammeter is reading a lot of charge at this point, 15 amps
> or more, which could indicate a bad or deeply discharged battery.
>
> Me-----------
> D-E still higher, but what I got was 5.5-8.5 volts,wildly fluctuating
> (meter never settled down) This makes me think that the new regulator I
> put in (got it in the parts bin from the PO) is pooched...one imagines
> that a wildly varying number well above suggestions indicates a pooched
> regulator, no?
Actually, this is normal when using a digital meter on a working
charging system. F is the control voltage back to the generator, the
regulator connects it to D to increase generator output, and lets it
fall to nearly 0 to decrease generator output. The result is that the
voltage on F swings widely when the regulator is regulating. An analog
meter takes a continuous average of it's input, so it usually won't show
the swings (unless they become slow, like when the regulator is just
barely reducing the generator output). But, a digital meter takes a
relatively short 'snapshot' for each displayed value, and displays the
average during the snapshot. Thus it displays a different value each
time.
>
> Randal------------
>
> 8) As a final check, (again assuming step 5 was under 13v) stop the
> engine, remove both wires from the generator, jumper the terminals
> together and connect the voltmeter from either terminal to ground.
> Start the engine. Rev no higher than about 750 rpm, and check the
> voltmeter reading. If you don't get at least 15v, the generator is
> definitely bad. According to the book, around 4-8v indicates a bad
> armature or brushes, around 1v indicates a bad field. If you do get
> 15v, reconnect the wires and repeat the test with the F and D wires at
> the regulator. If you get different results here, then the wires are
> bad.
>
> Me-----------------
> Did this, only got 8.9 Volts-
Since step 5 showed that the generator is putting out 13.5v, and step 7
showed that it's output is being limited by the regulator, I believe
this result shows that either your tachometer reads high (many do), or
your fan belt is slipping.
>
> Analysis- I think the new regulator I put in is crap. What does
> everyone else think? The test wasnt qutie solid because with D-E >13V,
> i dont know if test #7 still applies...thoughts all?
Finding D-E at 13.5 means the ignition lamp should not be on bright,
almost irregardless of any failure of the generator or regulator. It
sounds more like the yellow wire from the ignition lamp got connected to
E instead of D ...
>
> Additionally, it sounds like the generator may be weak
Don't change it just yet. The one on the car is working at least enough
to turn off the red light, so let's solve the red light problem first.
If a new control box can be bad, so can a new generator <g>
> Cut my hand fiddling with the lower
> generator mount bolt, which may be stripped (does it have a nut behind
> it, or does it screw straight inot the generator, like the top outer
> bolt?)
The front lower mount bolt screws into a 'pedestal', which has a stud
and nut that mounts it to the engine. It's not unusual to find
pedestals with stripped threads, or the nut that holds the pedestal to
the engine could be loose. The hole in the generator is not threaded.
BTW, how do you know your loose fan belt is not slipping ? They don't
always squeal ...
Randall
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