Scions-
Here is the summary of installing the rear diff drain plug. Thanks to
Peter Arakelian, Brad Eells and Bud (hey-that's my cookie) Rolofson for their
input.
Having the rear diff on the bench and wanting to make life easier on the
maintenance program, I decided to install a drain plug. There are two options-
1.) install in the main housing (best option) or 2.) install in the rear
housing (the easiest). I elected the latter. I used a stock tapered TR6 plug
Moss #328-340.
Option #1-Main housing-this really requires total dissection of the rear
diff as the gears need to be removed to assure that the filings from drilling
can be thoroughly removed. In my case the gears were inspected and found to be
within spec. Not owning the required(?) Churchill tool to spread the casing, I
elected to leave it alone and chose option #2. The best method however is
option #1 as it is a beefier housing and is the logical location. Looking at
the housing it is quite obvious as to the location of the drain. There is a
half circle gate mark at the bottom rear of the casing. The drain location
should be just ahead of this half circle.Check clearance of the plug to the
ring gear to insure adequate clearance before drilling.
Option #2-Rear housing- the rear housing is aluminum which is easier to
drill but creates another dilemma, the 'ol dissimilar metal theory. Steel
plug+ aluminum housing =corrosion. Two ways to cure this problem, brass plug
or anti-seize.Or both. I went with option #2 as it is easier. I took the
housing to a local machine shop with plug in hand. I will use the steel plug
with some anti-seize being careful not to overtighten. The location of the
drain plug is also quite obvious on the rear housing as well. There is a
circular cast mark on the bottom toward the rear of the housing. I located my
drain halfway between the cast mark and where the rear housing flange is
located. The casing is .25" thick in this area and allows for 3 full turns on
the drain plug to seat snugly. The plug ends up flush on the inside of the
housing when tightened which does not create a clearance problem with the ring
gear. The stock plug does stick down from the casing, but not below the mating
flange of the rear housing/main housing. IMHO it does not run the risk of
ground clearance problems.This option can be completed with the diff still in
the car (I think) you'll just have to support the main housing with a floor
jack and remove the rear housing.
I got out of it for under $20.00 including gasket & plug and it'll be a
joy (relatively speaking) to change the rear diff fluif next spring.
Be sure to have the plug to be used before drilling and tapping.
The usual disclaimers apply and good luck. These lists can be invaluable
sometimes. Thanks again-
Tim Hutchisen
'71 TR6-with interchangeable diff fluif
'80 TR7 Spider
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