Hi Dave,
I'm just about to bolt the wings back on to my TR 4 after replacing both
floors and outer sills and such. I think your process will give good results
as this is basically what we did. Don't know if it's really necessary to use
the new spacers under the old floors, but you do want to keep everything
straight and aligned as you work. We never removed the doors except to
repair the hinges (braced the tub from the center windshield mounting hole
to the rear deck). Do one floor at a time, and one sill at a time depending
on how much rust you encounter. One tip I learned was to use a welding torch
on suspected rust areas to burn away the thin rusted spots while leaving
good metal intact. Another thing that surprised me was how much brazing we
used. Some might argue that if you braze a repair you won't be able to come
back and weld the same area later, but I'm only doing this once. I'll keep
the car garaged and remove the carpets to dry if they ever get wet, so I
don't expect it to rust through again. Unless I was looking at previous
repairs quite a few things were brazed at the factory, we never did use any
mig welding but my bodyman is very skilled with oxy acetylene. I would
really recommend getting a gas welding setup for this work especially since
mig and tig won't work to heat a bent panel for straightening. I have some
pictures of the process at http://matthewsx.homestead.com/
Cheers,
John Matthews
'61 Herald
'63 TR 4
<snip>My master plan was to first use my new body installation kit
>(spacers, actual bolts, etc.) to square up my semi-rusty tub before I
> >replace the sills and floorpans.
>My logic was that I should get my doors to open and close squarely >using
>the frame and spacer kit to shim where needed.
>After this task is complete I was planning on replacing the sills and
>floorpans on the frame.
<snip>
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