Let me try this again...I forgot to clip the trailer...
Randall,
I noticed that Haynes lists 10 ft/lbs and Bentley lists 5 ft/lbs when
tightening the nut. Which is correct? Or, is it best to snug it up so that
it revolves with some friction and back it up one flat and give it the old
12 and 6 o'clock movement test?
Thanks,
Bill
Williams, Bill wrote :
>
> Do I need to order bearings from Moss, TRF, etc. or, are there equivalents
> available at NAPA, AutoZone, etc.? If so, do you have the part numbers?
I've been able to buy TR3 front wheel bearings at the local independent
shop, so I'd say NAPA is definitely worth a try. I wouldn't bother with
AutoZone, tho. Sorry, don't have the numbers, but NAPA stores are usually
very good about having everything listed in the catalog. You may have to
ask to see the printed catalog, apparently not everything got put in their
computer.
> Will I need a puller to get them out, or will a little soft tapping do the
> job?
The outer cone will fall out when you pull the hub off the axle (if not
before). The inner cone is held only by the seal (which should likely be
replaced anyway). The two cups (races) are light press fits in the hub,
they usually come out pretty easy with alternating taps with a punch (drift)
and hammer. Clean the hub out first, so you can see the notches inside for
the punch. If there's any chance you might want to reuse the cups, you
should use a soft (brass) punch, but otherwise it doesn't matter.
>
> Any "gotchas" that I need to be aware of when I tackle this project this
> weekend?
Ironically (it being such a messy job and all), cleanliness is important.
When you pack the bearing cones with grease, make sure nothing but fresh
grease goes in. Any dirt or foreign particles will cause problems later.
Be sure you've got all the old grease cleaned out, as not all greases are
compatible with each other. Only the grease in the bearing does any good,
IMO there's no point in packing the hub or dust cover with grease.
Otherwise, it's an easy job. When you take the brake calipers off, have a
piece of coat hanger (or other) wire handy so you can tie them up out of the
way and not strain the hoses. That way, you don't need to open the
hydraulic system or bleed it later.
Note that repacking the front wheel bearings is a normal periodic
maintenance. You might want to double check that whoever does your lube
jobs is doing the bearings every few lube jobs, as they should also get
re-adjusted after repacking. (Sorry, I don't recall the service interval
off hand.)
Randall
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