Hi Dave, Pat
Just one word of advice, don't start with a small drill start with a centre
drill (a short bit usually used for making a place for the point of a lathe
centre to run) being short and stubby you can pull them around a bit if the
start of your hole looks off centre, also be aware that you have to allow
for the fact that what you see will include the start of the thread, you
have to try to visualise the missing bit of the diameter. (this is hard to
explain but if I got it right you will see what I mean) you could try
looking at the ISO drawing standards for tapped holes, this will perhaps
give you an idea what I am trying to explain. I have to drill out broken
bolts about once a week unless I am working on the foundry dies then it
becomes three or four times a day.
Graham,
1967 1300 FWD
1968 2000 Saloon
1972 2.5PI Saloon
1974 Sprinted Dolomite 1850
1975 Toledo in restoration!
http://www.triumph-iw.co.uk
http://www.mickdolphin.co.uk Spares Supplier.
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Massey" Subject: TR3 gas tank sender unit removal problem
| Message text written by "Pat"
| >I need to remove the fuel sender unit from the gas tank before I get it
| cleaned out etc. The problem is some of the screws holding it in are
frozen
| big time.
|
| I see my only option as grinding the heads off unless you can come up with
| other ideas.... question one.
|
| If I have to grind the heads off, what can I do when it comes time to
| replace the sender unit ?
| Drill and tap to a bigger size ?
| Bolts welded on up side down ?
| Gum ?
| <
|
| If that doesn't work you might be successfull drilling out to the same
size
| and cleaning up the threads with a tap. You have to center the drill very
| accurately. Start with a very small drill and then step up in size.
|
| Dave
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