Hi Carl
Thanks for the note, as I've been meaning to add to this thread again about
metal fans vs electric. I've been following with interest Brian's (Sanborn)
decision to go electric. As I mentioned a while back I've decided to
eliminate, by removal, my metal fan (vibration starts at 3800-and is worst
and uncomfortable (to my senses of perfection and 'protection', maybe not
the car)at 4500, the most (highest rpm)I've run the engine for 'just
moments'. Historically, in the early '70's, I ran the car all across Okla,
Texas and New Mexico at 5K-5500PRM with the adjusted valve rocker arm
clearances per Kastner, and don't remember (or was naive to the vibration
problem).
With respet to my metal fan (the original), I too spent hours cleaning,
polishing rough spots and painting the fan during the recent restoration.
I've found it is unecessary 1/2 the year, as I've been running a cardboard
in front of the radiator since November, and last month,even in a Post
Office line for 20 minutes- the needle never got past 1/2+ on a 30^ day
(witness was Jason Kleiger, Matt's son). It's just been too cold outside to
get to this project.
Let me back up. I was very careful to note where the 'balance' piece was on
the fan, and also measured the arc of the front and rear of the angled
blades- and can almost 'see' the variance in the 'running arc plane'as I
goose the engine under the bonnet. I twice made what adjustments I could,
but even with the 'best I can do'- its not eliminating the fan imbalance.
The other posts confirmed my instinct that Triumph made a 'good upgrade'
using an electric fan on the TR-6. The other big factor in my decision to
go electric is the dust (and fall chopped leaves)the metal fan brings into
the 'prisitine clean' engine bay, which, with the mettallic color, shows
immediately and much more than the solid colored cars.
I bought an electric fan, and a probe switch for the fins of the radiator to
eventually activate the fan via a relay circuit. I am aware that I need to
'find' a shorter replacement crank pulley bolt after the fan and extension,
(& the long bolt) are removed (to secure the pulley to the crank).
(GREG- any information yet here?)
I asked before if any list member knows if the threads on the TR4 crank are
the same as the TR-6 bolt,(TR-6's came stock with electric fans) but have
yet to receive a reply (HELP HERE PLEASE?)
Also involved in this will be the change to the Alternator, as I doubt in
the summer the generator could handle the electric fan, but I'll find out
and report back.
With the restoration, I was trying to keep everything as much as 'original'
on 'the 4' in the engine compartment, especially thinking how, (once cleaned
and painted petty) 'neat' the old dependable metal fan was;but now, a year
and 3 seasons later and 1,000 miles of 'TOY JOY, am into the 'practicality
and vanity first mentality'.
In the spring I detailed the car and upon entering one concours- had to
drive on a dirt road- All the hours detailing were for absolutely nothing-
dust everywhere- even when idling and 'stopped'- the dust was whirlwinded
around the engine bay. With the electric fan, I could 'cut it off for a few
momements'. This was heartbreaking- like a kid with a 'soiled toy'.
So in summary, I vote for no 'fixed fan at all'. Use an electric 'puller'
fan, and wire it up with a thermostatic switch on a relay circuit with a
manual override. I say 'puller fan' because you might want to add an oil
cooler in front of the radiator and that would leave the front of the
radiator 'unembumbered'. I'm convinced that the key to engine life longivity
is keeping oil temps 'lower'. I plan to add one to my TR someday too! <<My
Jensen GT has the stock oil cooler and a viscous pulley mounted fan, and
many have (especially in S. Cal) added pusher fans- but it is a tight
squeeze with the oil cooler and A?C condensor. I need to upgrade that to a
16 row from the stock 11 row oil cooler.>>
Oh, even in Oklahoma, I never had overheating problems, the gauge ran at
the high end on 100^ days, the water temp was close to the 100^ C mark as
well, but never spurt antifreeze out the overflow. A TR4 should not overheat
with a proper antifreeze mixture and a good working thermostat. The only
times I had overheating were when the thermostat failed to open in a very
large traffic jam (Woodstock-the original),and when the lower radiator hose
burst on a 112^ Oklahoma day(1972). (Side note story) I was on the Okla.
Turnpike between Tulsa and OKC, the next service station was closed, and 22
miles down the road later, when I stopped the engine 'seized'. When it
cooled and I replaced the hose (modified one the station had for a chevy; it
started right up and never used more oil after that than before. I had just
put in 60WT Valoline racing oil - and believe that saved my engine.
BTW, I did take the radiator to my local shop for an 'integrity and flow
test'.
check out the TR links from http://members.home.net/staffel/triumph4.html
Sherman
-----Original Message-----
From: Carl Sereda@aol.com [mailto:CarlSereda@aol.com]
Sent: Friday, January 26, 2001 11:13 PM
To: Taffel, Sherman
Subject: TR4 fan
Hi Sherman
I'd be interested in your determination on the TR4 metal fan (balancing,
cooling etc.) as I bought an old one and spent 6 hours restoring it in 1998!
-
but that was before I got into this 5 year ground up restoration effort and
now I am wondering if I should add an electric pusher fan to hide somewhat
under the radiator shroud or get a better fan like the plastic TR250 one.
After all this work I don't ever want anything even close to an 'overheat'
and a smoothly balanced running motor would be nice too.
regards
Carl Sereda
'63 TR4 since '74 - CT22326L
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