Justin :
Most likely, it's just a worn seal, not too difficult to repair yourself.
As I recall, you can push the driveshaft far enough forward and up to have room
to work (after unbolting it at the rear), and tie or brace it out of the way.
If not, you'll have to undo the front 4 bolts and remove it entirely.
Remove the cotter pin, nut and flat washer from inside the yoke (use the E-brake
to keep the diff from turning while you undo the nut). The yoke should slide
out, although you may need to supply some encouragement with hammer taps. If
it's really stiff, get a harmonic balancer type puller to pull it off.
Then pry the old seal out, and drive the new seal into place. It's best if you
can find a driver that contacts the seal all around the edge (I use the front
nose piece from an old Chevy transmission), but you can also work it into place
with gentle taps around the edge. Liberally smear the seal lips with assembly
lube.
Now inspect the surface of your yoke where the seal rides on it. If it has a
groove big enough to catch with your fingernail, you need a Speedi-sleeve (or
similar). (Try a NAPA store to buy a sleeve, they seem to be able to order
almost any sleeve made.) Otherwise, you need to clean it up (until no marks are
visible) with crocus cloth or similar.
Slide the yoke back into place, replace the nut and flat washer, torque to spec
and install a new cotter pin, then replace the driveshaft and refill the diff.
Randall
59 TR3A daily driver
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-triumphs@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-triumphs@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Justin Paxton
> Sent: Friday, December 15, 2000 12:57 PM
> To: Triumph Newsletter
> Subject: Differential Oil Leak
>
>
>
> My differential leaks at the front where the yolk enters the casing. How
> hard/expensive is that to fix? I live in LA. Anybody know who I would take
> that to to fix?
> -JP
> '59 TR3A TS40984 "Parts All Over the House"
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