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Re: LOOKING FOR GUIDANCE

To: "Bill Sohl" <billsohl@pop.mindspring.com>, <JAMES.TALBOT@arpstl.army.mil>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>, <vtr@autox.team.net>, <Herald948@aol.com>
Subject: Re: LOOKING FOR GUIDANCE
From: "davidfpierce" <davidfpierce@email.msn.com>
Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2000 17:43:02 -0800
References: <200011292352.SAA02876@smtp6.mindspring.com>
Sorry, I though that I already had.  You have to pull all the instruments
out first.  I've done this on both a TR6 and a TR250.

David Pierce

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Sohl" <billsohl@pop.mindspring.com>
To: <JAMES.TALBOT@arpstl.army.mil>; <triumphs@autox.team.net>;
<vtr@autox.team.net>; <Herald948@aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2000 10:50 AM
Subject: Re: LOOKING FOR GUIDANCE


> Andy Mace answered James Talbots query...
> > Seems to me that the speedo and tach need to come out first. But I'm
sure
> > someone here on the Triumphs list or VTR list can tell you quickly and
better
> > than I, James.
> >
> > Please reply to james.talbot@arpstl.army.mil
> > <mailto:james.talbot@arpstl.army.mil> if you can help!
> >
> > --Andy
> >
> > In a message dated 11/28/00 2:09:12 PM EDT,
> > JAMES.TALBOT@arpstl.army.mil  writes:
> >
> > > I'm looking for someone with experience at removing a wooden dash from
a
> > >  TR6.  I removed the visible screws from the surface of the dash.
That
> > freed
> > >  up the right side but the left side remained tight.  I tried to
gently pry
> > >  the left side loose but it didn't want to come.  I hesitated to apply
too
> > >  much pressure for fear that I would crack the wood.  Are there other
> > >  fasteners that I overlooked or do I simply have to apply more
pressure?  I
> > >  didn't remove any of the gauges, tach, speedo, etc.  Do any of these
have
> > > to  come out first?
> > >  Jim Talbot  1974 TR6
>
> James,
>
> Andy pretty much hit on the problem.  The dash can ONLY be removed
> once ALL the other connections (wiring, speedo, etc.) are
> disconnected from the dash itself.  Look also for other attaching
> points that might be behind the dash.
>
> This is one of those examples where it really pays to have
> a factory shop manual or the equivalent Haynes or Bently
> manuals.  IF you plan on keeping your car (regardless of
> make/model) and actually doing any maintenance or
> restoration yourself...the FIRST thing you should buy is
> the proper manual(s) for the car you own.  (Soapbox off)
>
> Good luck,
>
> Bill Sohl
> Past VTR magazine co-editor.

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