Message text written by Steinbeck Michael
>Hi Triumphiants,
>I have a 1962 TR4 (CT 17613 LO).
>1. Has anyone of you experience of changing the wheel bearings of
>the front and the rear axle? As I read it in my workshop manual the front
should
>not be too difficult, but the rear bearings require a special tool. Do you
>really need that special tool, or is there a reasonable way of avoiding
this
>tool?
Hi, Michael, Yes the front wheel bearings are easily changed with little
more that an adjustable wrench and a pair of needle (snipe) nosed pliers.
When you remove the nut (remove the cotter pin first) the outboard bearing
will literally fall out in your lap. The inboard bearing, on the other
hand, will be retained by the grease seal. The easy way to remove the
grease seal and the inner bearing is to remove the outboard bearing and
replace the nut a couple of turns. Then pull the hub out and the nut will
pull the bearing and seal out of the hub for you. Reassembly is the revers
of the above. ;-)
I don't have any experience with the rear bearings.
>2. Same question for the rubber bushings of the (front and rear)
>suspension. Here it looks to me, that the rear suspension is much easier
to
>be rebushed, since the TR4 has the solid rear axle and the front
suspension
>is of much higher complexity. Also I read, that there are now non-rubber
>replacements available (for the TR4A), that have much better properties
that
>the original ones. Are these available for the TR4 as well?
It may sean that the rear suspesion would be easier to service and it would
be except for our old friend, RUST! It appears that the rear suspensing is
much more suceptible to rust than is the front. Maybe it is because there
is more road spray. Maybe it is because there is more oil and grease about
up front. What ever the reason be extra carefull. If you are not carefull
you can snap off the threaded studs while trying to remove the nuts. If
you are planing on servicing the bushings inthe next six months start
treating the associated fasteners with penetrating oil now. And
frequently.
You can get polyurethane bushings to replace the rubber ones and the wheel
tracking will be improved. I put these on my TR6 several years ago. The
wheels feel like they go up and down over the bumps whereas before they
went up and down and side to side and back and forth before. On the other
hand the poly bushings transmit more road shock and vibration to the
chassis. It is not an uncomfortable amount but it is noticeable. Further,
do not install these bushings dry. They will squeek. Lubricate them
first. My TR6 squeeks quite a bit but when I installed these on my TR8 I
used a silicone grease and they haven't squeeked yet. Others have had
success with anti-sieze such as Felpro C5-A or Coppa-slip.
>For both questions: Are there any difficulties one might run in, that are
>not described in the manual? I usually use my (German) copy of the
original
>workshop manual, but got, a week ago, the new reprint of the Haynes
manual.
Yes! As I mentioned before rusty fasteners are always a problem in a 38
year old car. And accumulated road dirt and grease. Clean and oil
everything as best you can beforehand. Additionally, replacing the front
bushings involves disassembly of the front suspension and you need a spring
compressor for this. And even with a spring compressor it is tricky and if
you don't have a friend who has done it before and can show you the tricks
you'll have to count on your ingenuity.
>Thank you for any response.
Well, good luck and have fun.
>Michael
>1962 TR4, CT 17613 LO
>michael.steinbeck@start.de
<
Dave Massey
57 TR3
71 TR6
80 TR8
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