Regarding the original question about the brake pads - these are almost
entirely subject to visual inspection. If the allowed amount of pad material
(I forget how much that should be on TR3 pads at the moment) is available,
and there is no crumbling or other uneven wear of the material, then they
should be fine. This is different than the ignition components (cap, rotor,
condenser, etc), which may 'look okay', but behave entirely different (you
may get the spark arcing across a minute crack in the cap, as an example).
For the majority of us, we use our cars for highway or open road use, for
just a couple thousand miles per season (all too short up here in Ottawa, I
might add!), so a pair of front brake pads may last for years & years. My 3A
required front pads to safety when I bought it, and I was lucky to obtain a
set from Jim Wallace (thanks again, Jim!) to expedite the process (I later
replaced Jim's set, btw). I'll probably be pushing up daisies before they
need replacing again. Cheers, JD
> -----Original Message-----
> From: BPAULTR3@aol.com [SMTP:BPAULTR3@aol.com]
> Sent: August 14, 2000 1:11 PM
> To: KMNTR6@aol.com; triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Another Front Suspension Question
>
>
> In a message dated 8/14/100 10:34:22 AM EST, KMNTR6@aol.com writes:
>
> << I am in the process of replacing the ball joints, trunnions, etc. on my
>
> '57
> TR3 and was wondering if I should have the rotor turned or machined since
> it
> is apart? Also is it advisable to replace the brake pads at this time?
> >>
>
> I'm sure you'll find that there are many approaches to
> rebuilding/restoring.
> I have one friend, a former TR owner now Healey owner, who , in the
> process
> of repairs/restoration work, replaces only the parts that he feels are
> defective or worn out. For example, during a tune up he does not
> routinely
> replace the rotor if it "looks OK", same with things like belts, hoses.
> He
> was describing a continuing problem he was having with his Healey, always
> breaking down on the drive home. Yes, he had tuned it carefully,
> everything
> was good. Periodic problem. Would run real well then, poof - just dead in
>
> the water. Well it turned out to be a used rotor he had left in there
> during
> the tune up. I figure he bought $500 worth of aggravation saving a couple
> of
> bucks on a small part.
>
> Personally if I am rebuilding or restoring a car I always replace all the
> 'wear' parts. Bearings, seals, etc. If I am making a repair to a car
> I've
> owned for a long time and have previously restored, I might just replace
> the
> failed part or parts. There is a cost/time/effort playoff of course. You
>
> don't rebuild the engine because the plugs wore out. But if you've gone
> to
> all the work to remove a tear down an engine, it makes complete sense to
> me
> to replace the rod and main bearings in an 'unknown' engine even if the
> oil
> pressure 'seemed' OK, no knocks etc.
>
> Check the cost of the work/parts in your case, the pads and machine work.
>
> Then think about maybe breaking down on the road, or worse having an
> accident, then having to do all the work over. I'd just do it now, AND the
>
> brake hoses, check the brake pistons, replace the seals, check the front
> spindles for cracks, install new wheel bearings, etc. etc. Then you will
> essentially have a new front end and can drive with a feeling of security
> for
> a long , long time.
>
> Just my thoughts.
> Bob Paul
> Corrales NM
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