Michael. Having R&R many a leaf spring, I think you have a choice. Put
it back together because it' still working, or remove the welded pin and
reconstruct it. At least you have the other side to go by as a guide. If
you're like me, the crappy repair will drive you crazy. I think a
grinder to remove the old welds would be better than a torch, safer for
the surrounding areas. See, I told you that you'd need one someday.
Mikita 4 inch is the best brand. Good luck. Jerry Oliver.
Michael Ferguson wrote:
>
> Decided to remove the rear leaf springs on my '3A to replace the front eye
> silentblocs. Followed instructions in the book and the pin on side one came
> out with barely a groan on my part. Cool! Now on to side two...
>
> The pin that I removed from side one has a round head with a flat on one
> side which butts up against a corresponding stud welded to the frame to keep
> it from turning. Has a threaded hole in it just like the book says. Screw a
> 5/16 x 24 UNF in there and pry it out. Side two has the threaded hole, but
> the round head is about twice a thick - and appears welded to the frame!
> Prying does nothing...Hammer does nothing; foul language even less! There
> also appears to be no flat on the head of this stud, nor a corresponding
> piece welded to the frame...of course, if you weld the whole thing to the
> frame, who needs a flat?!
>
> Has anyone run into this before? Short of torching it out, is there a
> solution? Based on the condition of the bush on side one, I was tempted just
> to put it back together, but you know the old story..."as long as I've got
> it out..."
>
> Now, I'm MORE than tempted to put it back like it was. From what I can see
> of it, side two is in about the same condition as side one. I'm not real
> sure how to determine acceptable condition of these things so if anyone has
> a suggestion as to how I can evaluate, I'd love to hear it.
>
> Am I an official DPO victim now? Any and all suggestions welcome. Thanks!!
>
> Michael Ferguson
> 1959 TR3A TS53990L
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